502 The number of days I have lived in Ethiopia 1.400 The cost in dollars, for a round trip flight to Washington DC 382 The estimated Per Capita GDP (USD) for Ethiopia 8 Approximate total number of gallons of water (bathing, drinking, washing) I have used since Carly left on January 18th. 2.5 The total [...]

Not me! This weekend my host sister Ametu Selam had her engagement party. The Ethiopian Muslim customs are very conservative, so only now that they are engaged will they be free to go out for coffee or see each other in public. The ceremony was at my house. There was quite a whirlwind of activity. [...]

Just as my landlord promised, I was given (finally) an extra small room to use as my kitchen. This day was long overdue and much anticipated. The week after Thanksgiving I was allowed to move my things into the small room across the compound. Thanks to Kevin for helping me move all of my stuff! [...]

IST had been scheduled during the Ethiopian Orthodox holiday of Timkat. This is called the Ethiopian Epiphany, but only if by Epiphany you mean the baptism of Jesus. Or does it have to do with the 3 wise kings. All I can be sure of is that it comes 2 weeks after the Ethiopian Christmas [...]

Lake Wenchi is a crater lake about an hour’s drive outside of Ambo. Our first Sunday of training, some PCVs arranged a bus to take us out there for a day hike. There were several hiking options but it sounded like there’s a short walk to the water. We’d take along sandwiches from the hotel, [...]

The second word I learned in Poland was niegazowana, ‘not gazzy,’ as in not-fizzy water. The Ethiopian equivalent is just one brand, Ambo. Ambo Wuha, bottled in the otherwise dry and dusty town of Ambo (of course). The site of Peace Corps Ethiopia’s G5 Education IST. 35 or so fizzled, dirty, frustrated Americans assembled in [...]

I mentioned this on facebook but it’s worth repeating here:  few weeks ago, Carly Arnwine taught a local orphanage basic photography. She gave them her polaroid camera and 200 prints given to her by some great friends. In doing so, Carly brought photography to a village that had none, and provided sustainable income generation for an Orphanage. I’m [...]

It’s been awhile. You could tell me that I’ve tafash-ed, that I’ve disappeared. I expect it from every friend I run into in the street after my 3-week absence and I roll off my list of cities that describe my January travels: Addis, Ambo, Debre Birhan, Hawassa, Jimma, Bahir Dar. Usually their eyes glaze over [...]

  This is a little out of order- should have been posted before the previous post.  None the less..Three weeks ago, I woke up with the biggest smile on my face.  I can’t begin to explain the excitement I felt … Continue reading →

“Melkam Genna!”  “Merry Christmas!”  Today, January 7, 2012, I had the opportunity to celebrate my second Christmas of the year.  For all the confusion that can come with having two calendars, it is a sweet reward to be able to … Continue reading →

Exit Strategy After seven years, it’s time to go By Barry Hillenbrand (Debre Marcos 63–65) Back in 2004 E&E RPCV president Marian Beil, speaking at the meeting of our group at the RPCV Conference in Chicago, asked whether there was … Continue reading →

New RPCV Legacy Program projects In recent months the Board of Ethiopia & Eritrea RPCVs approved the applications for two more RPCV Legacy Program projects. by Marian Haley Beil (Debre Berhan 62–64) ITC for Mettu School Patti Garamendi (Mettu 66–68) … Continue reading →

Sliding in Broadside: “What a ride!” PCV Keith Keyser may be three times the age of most PCVs, but his energy (and success) is a wonder to behold. By Janet Lee (Emdeber 74-76) “He may be retired, but I have … Continue reading →

Meeting Everyday Challenges in Ethiopia Head On: The Development of a Peer Support Network Looking forward, looking back By Teri Enomoto (Emdiber 09–11) THE BEGINNING OF THE NEW YEAR is time to make resolutions and take a personal inventory. As … Continue reading →

Continuing a Tradition PCVs have long had an interest in preserving trees. Now a new project to save a unique verdant treasure is underway. By Janet Lee (Emdeber 1974-76) As Returned Peace Corps Volunteers from Ethiopia and Eritrea, we have … Continue reading →

Written and complied by Barry Hillenbrand (Debre Marcos 63-65) How to raise some cash Ethiopia is in need of cash for development projects. Sure, the World Bank and other donors give Ethiopia a lot of help, especially in food aid, … Continue reading →

Written and complied by Barry Hillenbrand (Debre Marcos 63-65) How bad is the famine? Eritrea officially says that it has enough food and that it is not suffering from drought or famine. It had a good harvest, say officials. Because … Continue reading →

As the new editor of The Herald (and a librarian of over 30 years), I hope to continue the fine tradition of thoughtful reviews of books written by our fellow Volunteers and books about Ethiopia and Eritrea. I am in … Continue reading →

Volunteer needed Because of the death of wonderful Shlomo Bachrach (Eth Staff 66-68), who provided the sources for our articles in the News of Eritrea and News of Ethiopia sections of The Herald, we are in need of a volunteer … Continue reading →

the water is turned off, or when I get woken up by crying babies or fighting unidentified animals. The maid being tied up with rope, hurled onto a tarp and made to breathe in some ‘medicinal’ incense while screaming of abdominal pain [I offered my PA friend who was visiting, they turned her away...she's still [...]

I was going to Addis to begin my In-Service training. The 35 of us in education would spend 2 weeks in Ambo, about 3 hours west of Addis, and then the subset of us working at CTEs had another week planned touring ELICs. But first, at 4:30 am on a Sunday, I had to break [...]

Sisay was one of our LCF’s. For anyone who isn’t fluent in Peace Corps acronyms, an LCF is a language and cultural facilitator. They are modern day super heroes. These people leave their homes and families to come and live with us for our first 3 months in country. When we first arrive we are [...]

November 21: My Birthday (that’s right, it’s a holiday) So I woke up on Monday morning, checked out my Facebook, and many of my PCV friends (and a few people from home who understand the time difference) were on the ball and wished me a happy day! The first thing I did was bake myself [...]

“Find out what you’re afraid of and go live there.” - Read more: http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/authors/c/chuck_palahniuk.html#ixzz1lE6SzfTK

I wrote this a week ago: Tonight I will load all of my belongings into a blue and white Lada taxi that was built in Yugoslavia and imported to Ethiopia during the cold war. The taxi will take my bags … Continue reading →

A week ago the Republican nomination was all but over. Mitt Romney was well on his way to victory in South Carolina and locking up the GOP nomination. Then the South Carolina Debate happened. I have a terrible feeling that we will look back upon that debate as the day that changed everything for the [...]

The meeting is an familiar, but difficult, tounge; my mind has long ago gone into autopilot and I begin to dream or think - the two have become indistinguishable. My thoughts drift, and I suddenly become conscious about the 10 stories that are below my feet. The room I am in over looks the entire city, with a vantage point that few others can rival. The noise of the city streets climbs the building, entering through the window, becoming the soundtrack of the meeting. The discussion continues. The room is full, even with the windows open the room has gotten warmer. Exasperating the drowsiness that always follows lunch. Coffee and tea are quickly brought up adding a familiar chorus of clinking cups. Unfortunately, the sweet aroma of coffee and tea has added lead to my eye lids. I am brought back by an unmistakable eagerness, that preludes the end of every meeting.  A hand goes up, a silent groan tops-off the room - the meeting continues. I look out the window to a setting sun, and my mind goes adrift, again. I begin to think about everything I am giving up to be here another year. Everything that I have already given up. I find myself angry, with a faint taste of blood in my mouth. I stir, as if awaking, and look around me. And it hits me - as it always does - why I am here. I shake the silly thoughts from my head. The meeting ends and I smile. After two hours in the meeting, two years in the country, and too many hours practicing, I have to ask what the meeting was about. I leave the room looking forward to another year. 

Wow, it’s been a long time since my last post!  But things in Atsbi have been outstanding.  I’m trying to keep busy with my research but if I get bored, there is always a pile of dishes in my kitchen to be washed in buckets on the floor.  Be thankful for your dishwashers, people… That’s [...]

New RPCV Legacy Program projects  In recent months the Board of Ethiopia & Eritrea RPCVs approved the applications for two more RPCV Legacy Program projects. by Marian Haley Beil (Debre Berhan 62–64) ITC for Mettu School Patti Garamendi (Mettu 66–68) … Continue reading →

One of the most exciting parts of my Peace Corps assignment is working with the Non Timber Forest Products organization. NTFP does work not in the cities, but deep in the forest in remote villages. Up until this month I had not had an opportunity to go with them. I was supporting their mission from the regional base here in Deka, but this week I finally got a chance to visit one of the forestry sites, Gawache.

I thought my village was small and remote, but compared to Gawache it looks like a metropolis. Gawache is 17.5km (11 Mi) northwest of Deka, only accessible by foot or horse. The village consists of a cluster of about 20 grass huts, 3 buildings with tin roofs, and 1 school. During our trip I was shown the difficulties of village life when a young girl, no older than 7, was being taken to Deka on a horse. She had tripped and a piece of wood had caused a terrible gash in her mouth, with severe risk of infection her parents only option was make the journey.

I was carrying several kilograms of seeds so we decided make the excursion by horseback. Leading the way were two of my friends who work for NTFP. It took us about 4 ½ hours, over very rough terrain and we had to ford 3 creeks and one river. We were lucky to have sun for the first half, but then a lightning storm came and dumped buckets of water on us. During the trip we only had to dismount from the horse once, on a steep muddy hill. The mud was so think that with each step it would go up to my shin. The trip was concluded just before dusk and I set up my tent in field next to the school.

As darkness fell we left camp to find some T’ej, a local honey wine. This served two purposes: 1. I could introduce myself to the local government officials and 2. We need some T’ej after that journey! At the T’ej house I was able to meet the local kebele manager (like a mayor) and talk about what we were doing. He was very familiar with NTFP and their programs with the forest, but he was thrilled to know that I brought seeds for their tree nursery. He invited me to dinner and we were able to eat the local bread, K’ocho, and a delicious bean dish, k’ik’ wat.

The next morning I had a nice tour of the village and a section of the forest. I have lived in Ethiopia for a year half but this village still surprised me. The community was tiny, but everyone was extremely hospitable as I was invited to have coffee and milk at a couple different houses. I was also able to train a few locals on seed bed preparation, supplementing the fantastic education NTFP had already provided.

I was supposed to leave early that morning, but the trainings and coffee drinking went a little longer than expected. My counterpart was staying there for a few more days but he didn’t want me to make the journey alone. It was market day in Deka so many farmers were going there to sell their goods, but they had already left. We ended up hiring a guide, a local student who didn’t have school that day.

At 15 years old he was a smart kid. He is currently learning English and his one request was to have me tutor him along the way. We also agreed to pay him 20 birr with a 10 birr tip. This was a great wage since most day laborers make 8-10 birr for a full day of work. After we set out, me on the horse and he on his feet, I found out he was going to be returning that afternoon. While it is common for people to walk the 35km (22mi) round trip in one day, I thought it was cruel and I gave him my horse. I usually go on a 10-15 mile hike once a week so I enjoyed the walk. Also on foot I was able to scout out parts of the trail and I found a small waterfall on the Gone-Gori River. The falls was only about 3 meters (10 feet) tall, but it was still a beautiful site to see until I realized I was standing on an ant colony. I proceeded to have ants in my pants for a good 5 minutes, but my guide found that funny.

We got back to Deka in the afternoon and I took the guide out to lunch. It is special for someone to get a soda or meat, but he had to make the trip back and I didn’t feel right to send him on his way without a full stomach. I also gave him 2 liters of my purified water (he left without a bottle and I did not see him drink anything but the soda and water I gave him). Just after lunch he met up with several farmers from his village to walk back with.

The trip was a great success, but my perspective has changed. I thought I was remote, complaining to my friends who live in big towns and cities, I was wrong. Even though only a couple thousand live in Deka, it is a city compared to Gawache. Their life is difficult but their strength is great. The seeds I brought will provide trees for hundreds of people and will help save the forest. It is tough to measure the benefits directly, but one tree is worth about 600 birr ($35) after 10 years. I am estimating 5,000 seedlings will survive to become full trees. This is worth about 3,000,000 birr ($175,000). In 2010 GDP per capita in Ethiopia was $342 (The United States was $48,010 for perspective), the trees will provide excellent value helping the community and also saving the forest. Perhaps one day the villagers won’t have to go 17 ½ kilometers by horse just to see a doctor.The contents of this website are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

The Integrated Watershed Management team, in partnership with experts from GIZ—a Dutch/German aid organization well-known in Ethiopia for its energy efficiency and biomass conservation work—just completed fuel-saving stove construction training in two model watersheds. The hands-on training taught 30 farmers (half of whom are women) how to built an aweramba mud stove using locally available [...]

• I hate goodbyes. There is something maddeningly depressing about a final goodbye. I won’t see Carly for months – months of bad communication and a pretty big dose of loneliness. Seeing her walk away is REALLY hard. • It’s really depressing being a DC sports fan. • I’m reading an awesome book, Moonwalking with [...]

When I was in high school, I had an affinity for wigs. Yes, wigs. My favorite was one that allowed me to have a mullet hair cut, and the tag on the inside read “Black is beautiful”. Well, fat is my new black. With Cushing’s, everything is way out of my control and I’m literally [...]

With a book on bread ovens and tips from those who have made them before, I took on building a clay oven in my compound. Its been fired up a couple of times but still needs some time for me to get familiar with its cooking style. Neighbors say the 22'' cooking space is small and are doubtful of what it might produce- but I think once a good loaf is pulled out, I will have to start charging for at least the fire wood..

January 30, 2012 So T’imk’et is an amazing celebration that is unique to Ethiopia. It is the celebration of the baptism of Jesus Christ. My first question is why don’t more countries celebrate such an occasion? My day started off with a breakfast-free morning because such is tradition as you go to the celebration. We walked to [...]

I realized that thoughout my four months here, I have yet to upload pictures! So here, a little out of order, are some of my favorite photos from the past four months in Ethiopia; training, my new site, and Ethiopian holidays!

This was taken during the holiday of Timk'at, or the Epiphany of Christ, all the Priests parade through the streets 'moving' the church for one day to a new location with water for the baptism- First the children lead the way dancing and singing, followed by Priests with their colorful and intricately embroidered attire and umbrellas, followed by the men and their drums, and lastly, the women, all dressed in their white embroidered dresses.

Back at our training site, this river ran behind the town in a series of waterfalls. I was often told there were monkeys near the river, but, alas, I never saw any.

Well, until Tigray that is. This is my neighbor, Jackie, and the woman that owns him- he's just a baby male baboon they baught somewhere? He seems to be adapting to village life pretty well.

I think its the large amounts of hair, but jackie loves climbing up and digging through it to look for bugs. Dont worry, he didnt find any.

Another picture of Jackie and his "mom", eating wheat.

In my new town in north eastern tigray, this little waterfall is hidden down a little canyon at the bottom of the plateau my town sits on.

Coca Cola- in Ahmaric.

The freshly roasted coffee beans of a coffee ceremony. I wasnt much of a coffee fan, but I have to admit I am now!

The rural side of our training site.

Breanna and myself and our kids er caught.

Back to the festival of Tim'kat- this is of one of the groups singing and druming at the site of the new church.

In the third or fourth grade, a friend of mine gave me a magnet that still sits on my refrigerator at home. It was a picture of a Labrador and it said, “May I always be the kind of person my dog thinks I am.” The contrast to how Americans and Ethiopians view dogs could [...]

I was in the mood for some googling today and wanted to see what Wikipedia had to say about my town of Bonga and Zone of Kafa and Region of SNNPR, (Southern Nations, Nationalities and Peoples Region)  So admittedly, this is straight from Wikipedia but I thought it’d still be interesting to share with you guys [...]

23 January 2012

A month into my 27 at site and I’m finally beginning to feel comfortable. I’ve got somewhat of a routine now, and I’ve gained enough endurance to make it through the day without an afternoon nap. I’m even getting anxious and ambitious scheming up projects. What a transition! Regardless of how clever my ideas may be without language, integration and understand my efforts are trivial. So instead I am taking baby steps, appreciating the small things, and as a result of such patience I believe I will make bigger strides in the months to come. The first and most important step is easier said than done: Saying “YES!”To coffee with strangersMeeting and training invitations (even if I can’t understand the language) Accepting hugs from children and kisses from old ladies on the streetAgreeing to drink home-made beer concoctions (with food I’m not as brave)To playing ping-pong against the elementary school teachersInvitations to eat lunch (I’m never allowed to pay and it makes me uncomfortable)To the countless awkward proposals from disrespectful men who want to immigrate the U.S. (just kidding on that last one!)

Next, I remind myself that even though it can be overwhelming, the attention that I’m receiving might dissipate and I need to take advantage of people’s interest while I’ve got such a captive audience. With this I go to meetings, job shadow and listen to every invitation and idea even if I’m not too keen on it or don’t think that it is plausible. Who knows!? I’ve heard from other volunteers that sometimes the most unlikely projects turn out to the most successful and rewarding. Just today I was given a tour of the public library and cultural museum… we’ll just say it has a lot of potential. Basically all the university textbooks that have lost their campus value end up in small towns libraries in developing nations (who knew?)! I haven’t found too many American’s, let alone Ethiopians, that read macroeconomics, organic chemistry or accounting textbooks for fun. No wonder there isn’t much of a reading culture here! (If anyone is interested in organizing a book donation please contact me) Expanding the library’s inventory never crossed my mind, and it would definitely be a large, but worthwhile project. Being a PC volunteer, no matter if your focus is health, education or environment, means being a community member so I shouldn’t be narrow minded when it comes to picking projects. After all, my family is full of devoted library patrons (what an understatement)!

Learning new hobbies such as crocheting, making grass baskets, taek wondo (it’s huge here!), and playing the harmonica are other ways I’m developing a sense of fulfillment and getting to know people in my community. I’ve also been re-igniting my long lost love of soccer by playing at the high school a few days a week. My teammates include teachers and students both young and old. It should be no surprise that I am the only woman on the field. Probably the only females some of these men have seen play soccer in person, let alone played soccer with. Fortunately, everyone is welcoming and enthusiastic about my participation (when I play poorly they kindly say “B, you are not lucky today” and I correct them by saying.. “yeah, I’m terrible”). On the side lines though, I’ve had a conversation correcting the myth that men are biologically stronger than women… if only my athleticism could speak for itself (maybe after I get in shape?). Regardless of my huffing and puffing, I love playing with these guys and slowly getting back in shape.

Little by little I am planting seeds and sowing them. My circle of friends is growing, I’m out of my compound most of the day instead of hiding inside reading and sometimes I even hear “B” when I walk down the streets instead of “china” “mister” “you, you, you” or “ferengi”. Becoming more integrated in my community has helped alleviate my homesickness (somewhat) and given me that patience to work through the challenges and frustrations that are an inevitable part of life here.

So yesterday I went on a wild horse cart ride into the rural farm area of Ch’abi ha. There are some innovative hard working farmers in that area who are full of ideas but lack resources. I held a meeting to see what types of trainings they would be interested in and what environmental issues [...]

Despite all their passivity, formalities, and often narrow-mindedness, I find that Fijians live a far more blatant and direct life than so-called up-front, direct, and open-minded Westerners. Because roles are more limited here people generally know where they stand with each other. Because people live off the land they are closer to their food. Because people cannot send people off to old age homes they are closer to caring and death of their loved ones. Although people here are generally poor in wealth, they are generally wealthy in happiness and often lacking in superficial judgment. (I stole this from a fellow PCV..he put it so well...and let me steal it too!)

** if you click on the photo..you can see the whole thing

So my blog is probably not as exciting as Bob Lob Law’s Law Blog (What what, AD!), but I think it’s still pretty informative and entertaining.   Going back to my previous entry, I have another story about muh bladder. Reader beware – it’s hysterical and only happens to the best of us. Are you [...]

I’ve had access to a hot shower for almost 3 weeks now (until today).  Walking through my friend’s town today I began to sweat and thought to myself Oh yeah, Kim, this is your life—sweating every day any time you step outside, knowing you kind of stink but won’t shower today and being generally ok [...]

  Sorry it’s been so long, I have been out of site for almost 3 weeks now. The first two were in Ambo (it’s an okay spot) where we had IST (in service training) and then I went to Addis for some medical stuff. I ended up staying in Addis longer than I expected, I [...]

Feel free to add some more! 1. Everything is shared. If your neighbor has fruit or peanuts, he will offer you most of it. Likewise, if you have some, you better offer it to your peers. 2. Space is also shared. There is no concept of personal space. 3. There is no concept of time. [...]

Ethiopian Epiphany was Friday. John and I walked to Main Street to take part in the celebrations. We set out a little later than last year, so we missed the priests’ chanting and singing. But we were in time for … Continue reading →

Well…what does one do when the news is loaded with political heat and chaos? Have a day in the park!! My friend Bridget came for a tour of the bio park, so we ran around with my friend Birkinish and took silly animal photos. Lovely outing. The other picture is my host family making their [...]

3 January 2012

After a fun filled Christmas weekend in Hawasa and Wondo Genet, I barely had time to get working at my new site as New Years came the following weekend. We don’t frequently get permission or excuses to leave our sites so Theresa, Orion and I seized the opportunity and took off East to Dinsho, the entrance of Bale National Park and the home of a fellow volunteer Brian.

Brian is one of approximately 20 people who living (legally) inside Bale National Park. His closest neighbors are the bushbucks, hyenas, baboons and nyalla that frequent his compound, sometimes even coming into the kitchen looking for snacks. The variety of volunteer living conditions, work environment and communities is astounding. Just last week I was on a college campus where Bob and Nancy work at Ethiopia’s only forestry college. It was landscape full of avocado trees, monkeys, asphalt roads and even adults who are accustomed to foreigners and don’t harass white people. Bob and Nancy teach at the college where they have an office and a house with a sink and an oven inside! In Hawasa Rich works as a IT volunteer at the AIDS resource center. He too has a desk with a computer and a desk! His big city is full of ferengi grocery stores and offers postcard worthy views daily of the sun setting over lake Hawasa.

Brian’s electricity and cell phone reception doesn’t always work, he doesn’t have internet, an office or close neighbors to invite him to coffee, yet I covet his site the most. There are 4 simple reasons for this:

1) Brian has a hot shower with great water pressure!

2) At night the hyenas and warthogs surround his living quarters and they make so much noise it is frightening to walk 25 feet uphill in order to simply use the bathroom.

3) When researchers come to visit the park they live in the dorm rooms next to Brian. This has given him opportunities to become involved with various projects including some work with National Geographic!

4) There is a marvelous rickety old fence around the park and an admission fee that does a pretty great job ensuring that Brian and his wild friends have the place to themselves most of the time.

For New Years we went on a hike north of Dinsho with a flat rocky landscape so unlike the mountainous forests behind it I almost forgot where I was.

We spent the evening cooking delicious food, staying warm over a bonfire and having a shameless dance party. Other volunteers have told me that the “Bale crew” is a fun one, and now I have witnessed it for myself. I am elated to be a part of it.

Yesterday while returning home from Wondo Genet I had to change buses in Dodola for the last 30km of my trip. I resisted demands to put my duffle bag on top even though I knew the bus would be a full one. Unwilling to separate from my luggage, I climbed into the bug and sat on the last 6 inches of the seat closest to the door. By the time we left there were 20 people in a van built for 12 passengers. Obviously, me having my luggage didn’t make things more comfortable, but I was unwilling to let my belongings sit on top and risk them becoming damage, or being forced to pay 10 Birr to have them removed when I got off the bus. Within less than 10 minutes after leaving Dodola we pulled over to collect the jerry cans that had fallen from the top of the van. Two more times we stopped to re-tie the water cans down again. I smiled to myself knowing that for once my stubbornness had served me well.

This morning I found a staple in my oatmeal.Between the oats, peanut butter, cinnamon and sugar I can’t exactly pin down where it came from. I’ve learned to be cautious of rocks in my lentils, beans, wheat and rice. People spend hours coming through their grains to remove such impurities… but how could I have expected an office supply in my Quaker oatmeal?

It’s Wednesday which is my second opportunity to get goods from our market. I was stopped by a man who I’ve met before (but I couldn’t tell you where) and we went through the motions of smiles and greetings. Afterwards, he kept his hand on my shoulder and asked if I needed help at the market. I explained that my friend Taayich was there with me and I didn’t need help. I made my way with her to the fruit stands where he again interrupted me as I was trying to buy mangos. Awkward jokes led to him inviting me to lunch. I politely refused his offer saying that I already had plans and without warning he asked if I was married. As recommended by other volunteers, I do wear a wedding band on my left hand to help people make assumptions and improve my chances of not acquiring any stalkers. If they do ask my status I respond that I have a boyfriend in America (thanks Joe!) which isn’t entirely honest, but again keeps me away from uncomfortable situations. When this particular man heard that I was unavailable he lost his façade and got straight to the point: “I need to go to America. Can you help me?” I told him that I couldn’t help him and that I am unfamiliar with the immigration process. I referred him to the U.S. embassy and the next thing I knew he gave up on me and left. I’m thinking next time I should just have the embassy’s phone number on hand and tell people to call my friend who can help them.

Around dinner time roommates insisted on helping me clean the floor of my room today. I tried to sweep but the broom was quickly commandeered by Taayich. Afterwards, she grabbed a mop which was accompanied by a bucket full of dirty water. After successfully making the floor of my room wet I thought she would be satisfied, but not quite. She quickly returned with a jerry can full of liquid which she poured on her hands and tossed around the floor of my room. Unable to identify the liquid by how it was being used or the looks of it I finally ventured a guess and asked if it was some sort of oil. No she replied, “it is gas.” As my jaw fell open my nostrils seized the fumes and began to sting. My attempts to understand why gas was the preferred floor cleaning agent were ignored as Taayich explained how gasoline makes the floor beautiful and after it dries it will not smell. Six hours later my floor is still somewhat damp and the air remains volatile. As far as beautiful goes, I cannot say that I notice a difference of any sort. Next time I am going to have to be more assertive about doing my own housework.

While my room aired-out we went on a walk south of town. Going with friends is best because they can help answer all of the strangers who want to know who I am, where I am going and how I managed to learn their language. We walked towards a low river that intersects fields of wheat and onions as it parallels a dusty road. Walking towards nowhere in particular we passed fences made of cactus which delineated property and wards off browsing sheep. The longer we walked the quicker that word spread and pretty soon I could hear people saying “ferengi” before we could see them. One gentleman walked up to me, gave me a soldier’s salute and pulled his scarf down so that I could see his bleached beard. Many of the older Muslim men in my town grow beards and some are dyed, but I have never seen someone fondle their beard in public. He was quirky and friendly so I played along “dhifama garu, areda hin qabu” I said (excuse me, but I don’t have a beard). We laughed and then we asked me if I would give him money to buy a cigarette. My normal response to money demands is “Quarshi barbaata? Mana bankii demii” (If you want money go to the bank), but because this man was my elder and wasn’t making his demands loudly from across the street I held my tongue. What I wanted to ask, as he stared at me proudly stroking his orange beard is “aren’t you Muslim?”

Hello again friends and family!

First off, I have to let you guys know that I'm having all kinds of difficulty logging on to my blogspot account at home in Asella. I don't know if it's the horribly slow internet connection or something else, but I try and try again to no avail. That being said, if it continues to be impossible for me to log on, I may have to start blogging via another site that actually works for me. I'll let ya'll know if I make the switch.

While I'm in a place where I can log on, I might as well tell you about the last two weeks I just spent in Ambo for In Service Training.

Ambo pretty much looks like every other largish town I've seen in Ethiopia so far. The difference is that Ambo bottles and distributes one of the most popular mineral water in the country. We didn't get to see the factory or anything, but we're sure it's there somewhere. Strangely enough, I didn't drink it once while we were there. The hotel we stayed at was nice enough, although anywhere that has a functioning hot shower I consider nice these days. I had lots of hot showers. The food made a lot of people sick though. Everyone seemed to be struck down by the consumption of Amoebas. Ick! I was one of the lucky one's that never ate the "Amoeba sauce". If none of you have ever experienced Amoebas, consider yourself lucky. They may be microscopic, but they'll make you suffer like nobodies business.

So, what else? I got to hang out with fellow education volunteers, and while we got off to a rocky and heated start with trainings and sessions, we managed to pull ourselves together to make IST what we needed to be. At this point we're all coming to terms with the fact that as the first education volunteers to serve here since way back when, we are guinee pigs, and our trials and frustrations are serving to make the road a little smoother for volunteers that come after us. They better be greatful for it too.....I'm just sayin'!!!

While we were there we got to witness several prossessions in the streets as the native population celebrated the holiday of Epiphany. Someone told me what it was about, something religious of course, but now I've forgotten the details. If you're really interested you can google it easy enough. While watching from the hotel it was an awesome and unique experience, but when it came time for us to come to Addis Ababa it became quite a hinderance. Every time we went through a town we were blocked by throngs of people celebrating on the street. After a few extra hours in a hot bus and a few very bumpy detours, we made it to Addis.

Last night a few of my favorite ppl and I went to eat at a place called Sishu and I had the best cheeseburger I've ever had., even in the states. Oh, the glory of good ferenji food after months of wat. I also had a damned tasty hot chocolate and a chocolate tart with bananas on top. Ohhhhh.....my food baby was so happy and full.

So now here I sit in the Volunteer Resource Center at the PC office internet that is actually not acheingly slow and it's pretty awesome. We're going back to Sishu for lunch where I will eat too much and not feel bad about it because who knows when or if I'll be back, then I'm off, back to Asella, back to a slow internet connection and the frustrations of starting projects, but also back to awesome Special Fol for breatkfast and my own tiny little house.