I finished my tour and arrived back in the States on Thursday.

It has been an interesting and life-changing experience - one that I will not soon forget. I will be heading to New York to complete a graduate program for the next 2 years...

Thanks for visiting.

David

This last weekend I traveled to Dakar, the capitol of Senegal, with a friend to pick up someone at the airport. The drive was neither short nor smooth, but Jake, the American teacher, managed to maneuver the pothole-laden pathway rather nicely. We took off early Saturday morning, crossed on the ferry to the Northern side of Gambia, and started our approximate 150 m drive to Dakar. After a very bumpy, hot drive to Kaulack about 1/3 of the way to Dakar, we were informed at the security checkpoint in Senegal that we needed to get a piece of paper at the border, another 1.5 h back on the crappy road. We tried to talk our way out of it, but it was to no avail. Three hours later we arrived back to the checkpoint with paper in hand and nobody even wanted to check it. This is a snippet of how the 3rd world works - chaotic and unpredictable.

On the outskirts of Dakar are new roadways being constructed, actual proper highways, I was nicely surprised, however the roads used for the meantime are absolute helter skelter. There are fruit and vegetable stands setup in the median, cars driving towards oncoming traffic, horse and donkey carts merging on and off, sellers running through halted traffic to sell any various item, for example: dates, calling cards, bottles, and pens; and no road markings whatsoever. They did have signs for general directions of towns - and I emphasize 'general.'

We arrived in downtown Dakar around 8p and drove around looking for a hotel. The area was pleasantly similar to a large U.S. city. I couldn't believe I was in West Africa. Banjul and The Gambia are about 100 years behind Dakar. We found a hotel and then went to grab something to eat. We stopped by a small bar/restaurant and had some food and a beer and watched as France upset New Zealand in the Rugby World Cup. We then stopped by a bakery that had the sweetest smell taken in by my nose in 2 years. We promptly went back to the hotel, gobbled our decadent sweets and passed out.

The next morning we drove to the harbor and took a ferry out to Goree Island for the day. It was an old French colonized slave island. It was very interesting and beautiful (check at the link) and worth the time visiting. After arriving back on the mainland we drove to the airport, found a really nice hotel, swam, and took in some food while we waited up the rest of the night until the 6am flight came in. Without any sleep we drove back to Gambia and finally arrived around 430p. It was great to take a break from The Gambia, and nice to see what this place can strive towards, economically and developmentally.

I'll post some pics of the trip soon.

with them they bring a myriad of other joys to complement the flooding of our recently constructed Agency building (thanks for the contracting work World Bank), my leaking apartment, and flooded roads. For instance, the host of various bugs, spiders, and teeny-tiny mini toads (never seen them at this stage at home), and swarms of mosquitoes and flies. The downpours are unlike anything I've experienced in the States, and when thunderstorms blow in they are grandiose. Last week a lightening bolt ripped above my apartment delivering a threatening pop through my electrical box knocking out my breaker. I wasn't scared. I was petrified. I usually have to wake up in the middle of the night, if it's raining, to engage in damage control as regards to gathering towels and placing them strategically enough to avoid flooding of important items.

People and places just shutdown during a rain. Nobody wants to get wet, drive or work while it's raining. I don't complain.

After a rain or thunderstorm it's amazing how fast the water is absorbed and taken in by the vegatation. During the beginning of the season fields go from reddish-brown dirt to a plush of green in a matter of days. The green is everywhere and really makes it feel tropical - it's beautiful.

Ok, just thought I'd share. I see my Cubbies are in a battle for first!

Almost daily there are headlines in the local newspapers that grab your attention and or are less than appropriate proper English. Here are a few of many examples: (DoSH = Dept. of State for Health; Jammeh = The Gambia's President)

'Government Not Involved in Buying of nuts'

Most of us Americans are use to seeing an Africa on television portrayed as a lost cause and most hold these images as their only idea of Africa. It is true that poverty is rampant and Africa has a long way to go, but it is nonetheless, advancing. It's really annoying to me when people expect to be given free handouts, as I get propositioned for daily. Here, that is in large part, due to the touring Brits' who happily throw pens, candy and give money to the people and then leave thinking they're saints and feel they did their part to aid Africa. But when they leave the only white people around to beg for free handouts are those who work, volunteer and live here. This only exacerbates their reliance on handouts and promotes laziness by not working hard to improve their lives and their country. Therefore, when I see and here all these concerts and Bono PR bonanzas promoting Africa as hopeless and the people helpless it irritates me.

Here is a great article, which prompted this post, that discloses a more realistic view of Africa than Mr. Bono and other celebs like to dramatize.

Instead of falling prey to these dramatizations we need to look at areas we can do something about besides throwing money at the continent and magically hoping things change. One major current issue is the U.S. Farm Bill that is up for readjustment. This bill is a large problem for farmers in Africa (as well as the majority of farmers in the U.S.) wanting to get equal market share for commodities like cotton. Because of the subsidies received by U.S. farmers, who receive more money for more crops produced, the market is flooded by a surplus which undercuts the price that would be received by farmers whose livelihoods depend on this income. Farmers here would greatly benefit if the market were fair by increasing their income helping them to save and enabling greater choices of food and other entrepreneurial opportunities. The only real, sustainable way to reduce poverty is to have a reliable source of income. So instead of listening to an hour of Bono playing bad music send your concerns to our government.

It's been a long while since my last update. Things are becoming pretty routine and I'm enjoying my work at the nutrition agency. We're still conducting our weekly diabetic and hypertension clinics, and I'm working on the national nutrition report that is completed twice a year to determine the health status of the under fives, which includes over 50,000 children. I've also taken on the task of indexing and organizing the library, which should keep me quite busy for the rest of my time here.

A lot of friends are starting to leave the country as their time is finished. It's sad, but it is also starting to feel like my time here is dwindling down as I see them leave. Fairly soon I'll be back and hopefully going to grad school. I'm definitely looking forward to it, but I'll also miss the slower pace of life I've become accustomed to here.

I hope everyone is getting along back home - love you all and can't wait to see you's.

D

On my second trek my colleagues and I ventured out to various spots in the country to assess a vitamin A/de-worming campaign that is being implemented this month. One colleague and I stayed in Farafenni, which is on the north bank in the middle of the country. From there we met with some other counterparts in the area and trekked to different villages to encourage, consult, and gather data on the progress of the campaign.

FYI: Children less than 5 years of age have a regular schedule of vitamin A supplementation, but de-worming, which is regularly completed in most other 3rd world countries, has not taken place in the Gambia on a widespread basis, until now. Children can easily acquire worms by walking barefoot in a contaminated area. The worm will attach to the bottom of the foot and burrow up until it finds the intestines and then will set up shop and steal nutrients from the infected host. Certain species of worms can multiply and severely deplete a very needy young child of the dire nutrients they need to grow and survive. With the de-worming pills the child will pass out the worms in the feces, which is a very effective visual for the mother that the pills are working and their child will show marked health improvement.

Most sites were doing well, meaning their coverage of children being supplemented was on par with how many child they should have completed. Anytime an area was lacking they would have to come up with solutions to gather and supplement all the recorded children in the area.

These last two weeks I've been on a trek up-country with the Nutrition Agency. Last week the Agency took 4 visitors from African countries (Mozambique, Tanzania, Uganda, Zambia) to visit different villages that had been trained on an initiative to promote exclusive breastfeeding. The visitors were able to meet, discuss and hear about how the villagers' trials and benefits on exclusive breasfeeding has helped their community. Here's a quick rundown of events:

Day 1: Drove to Banjul, crossed on ferry to north bank; drove to Basse at the far end of the country; stayed the night at a health worker's house; to wash off the stickiness of the long day my bucket bath entailed getting swarmed by giant ants, so washing off that stickiness was marginal and tried to get a good nights sleep but impossible due to the unimaginable humidity and no air circulation (living in the city has spoiled me to weather, most other volunteers would punch me if I was to complain about the heat.)

Day 2: Visited different villages; villagers danced and sang for us; had lunch in Basse; drove to Monsakoko in the middle of the country, south bank; stayed at a lodge for the night

Day 3: Continued visiting other villages; I was forced to dance, it was taped, all my counterparts told me how 'well' I danced (in a very well disguised, sarcastic tone); drove home via the south bank road (imagine bouncing sideways, up and down, and in circles at varying speeds for 3 hours straight).

Overall, the visitors learned a lot and it was great for me to go out to the field to see the progress and efforts of the agency in action. I'll post pictures and an outline of my second trek soon.

Yes, today was international workers' day/labor day/haymarket martyrs' day, etc. We, in the US, ideally celebrate by enjoying the spring weather with maybe a BBQ thrown in. Here, different international, domestic and government agency organizations train for about a month for track-and-field type events which they will then compete in all day at the soccer stadium (pictured).

It's quite a sight to behold; thousands of Gambians running, tug-o-warring, three-legged racing, falling down while racing on the track - in their socks - and then getting carried off on stretchers. No serious injuries, they're just used to seeing football (soccer) players embelish any physical contact as a broken leg and wrying in pain on the ground. The reason they play in their socks - to lessen the liklihood of tripping. Overall, it was a beautiful day out and good fun for the Gambs'.

One facet of living in a predominately Muslim country is the exposure to different ideals of living. One in particular is the fact that Islam allows multiple wives, usually up to 4 wives for a husband. This is obviously, for most Americans, very unusual. Personally, I can't imagine the jealousy, stress, and rife that would be involved; I could barely handle that with one significant other.

Anyways, I thought I'd write on this topic after reading this very interesting, and relavent (mentions Gambia) article from the NY Times.

Eventually, most of the Gambia men I have discussions with will ask me if I have a wife. This usually progresses to their marriage life and then to questions concerning why I don't have at least one wife. I will tell them that a wife is too expensive or I haven't found the appropriate woman, but this only perplexes them more. And of course, every man wants an American wife, which they do not forget to remind me about each day. I try to explain that an American woman wouldn't have anything to do with a man who will always be looking for another woman to add to his stock, but this is to no avail. Their response is that they just won't tell them. OK, good luck with that.

It's an interesting idea. What 50 year old prune wouldn't want a 20 year old beauty? But as with most, anything in excess will usually lead to problems.

Last week I attended a Youssou Ndour concert. You probably haven't heard of him, but he is one of the more famous African musical artists. He's from Senegal, but has lived in The Gamb.

The concert, after a typical delayed Gambian starting time (11pm listed start time - 1:45am actual start time), was really enjoyable. Most music here is laden with African drums, in particular the talking drum, which is a tiny drum strapped on the shoulder. It has a distinct sound, like an electricky drum with quick, bellowing, rythmic sounds. You can listen to a song here.

Drumming is pretty popular around here. A lot of tourists and ex-pats buy handmade drums and eagerly join local instructors for lessons. I haven't really gotten into it - probably because I suck at playing any musical instrument, and it's not cheap, but it seems cool.

Youssou Ndour's website

Here's a link to an article discussing some of the issues health professionals are encountering in The Gambia. I can't expound too much, but it's quite controversial.

Also, check out the new interactive Gambia Map at the bottom of the page. Use the zoom button to get a close-up of the entire country. The map is provided by my friend Josh who owns a website business here: wow.gm.

Well my one year anniversary has come and gone. The new health volunteers arrived on Feb. 1st, marking the same time last year our health group arrived google-eyed and staring in wonder at our new home for the next 2 years. To be completely cliche, time has really flown by. I still feel I'm getting acclimated to the environs, people, culture, etc. and I know soon it will be time to depart and begin another chapter.

Already this experience has changed me for the rest of my life. I think it should be mandatory for every American to live in or visit other countries. I'll never look at the world in the same way I did before I arrived here last February. We are so sheltered and cared for in the States without much knowledge of whats going on "out there." That said, being here has brought about a new found love for America. We truly have an amazing country. You don't fully appreciate it until you're denied the basics most American's take for granted (i.e. (real) democracy, a voice, a choice, freedoms, etc.)

Ok, well let me finish this chapter...

View from doorway of roof terrace

Kitchen area

Living area with bedroom on the right

You can also find more apt. picks under the picture blog.

Hey loved ones. Wanting to wish all a happy new year and hope everyones' Christmas was terrific. My Christmas in Africa was great, but I sorely miss family and friends, snow and cold. One more Christmas to go.

The locals, mainly Muslim, will be celebrating Tabaski (Eid ul-Adha), which is a celebration of Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his son Isaac. Families spend a lot of money on buying and slaughtering a goat and share with those less fortunate and with family. It's basically like a traditional American get-together where everyone eats all day and mulls around with friends and family. The scene in the capitol Banjul is similar to the busy shopping season in America, except care takers are dragging around massive goats on the sidewalks and you have to sidestep sheep pellets and pools of excretion while being hassled by kids for money and shopkeepers to buy their stuff because they have the best deal.

On another note, I finally have my own apartment now and it's wonderful. Nice little place with a roof terrace. I'll post pictures later, til then enjoy the holidays.

One of the unique features of living here is getting clothes. All over The Gambia are tailors who can whip up just about anything from a tie to a suit if you give them the fabric. It is super cheap and the craftmanship is superb. I have yet to utilize these tailors, but plenty of friends have, and I am hoping to get around to it soon. I'm getting pretty tired of the same 'ole clothes I brought.

Check out this link to a local tailor in the Serekunda market (just down the way from where I live.) The scenes are quite familiar to me.

Tuesday was National Diabetes Day. A march took place in Banjul to the main hospital, The Royal Victoria Teaching Hospital, where The Secretary of State for Health and other leaders of the community were present. Overall, it was a success and directed more awareness to the public about the disease.

After a hot hour of listening in the sun, a nice cold, refreshing soda pop was handed out to the audience.

No one said it was going to be easy.

The SOS for Health.

Student nurses. Blah (middle looking at camera) and to her left Rokey enjoying the talk.

A young member of the Diabetes youth organization.

If you would like to buy a calendar I have set up a link on the right side of the blog under "photoblog." You will need a Paypal account to order one. They are $11 USD which will also cover postage. Part of the proceeds will go to the Peace Corps College school fund for a Gambian student while the rest will go for the costs of making it.

I will send them out as soon as I can after I get the order.

Thanks everyone, and Happy Holidays!

Some of the lovely ladies in our health group decided to do a "men of the Peace Corps calendar" for 2007. They have recently completed this extravagent endeavor and are selling them for 300 Delasis, which is roughly $11 USD. If you would like one let me know via a comment and I will look into how to send them out from here and to collect the money.

All of the proceeds will be placed in the Peace Corps scholarship fund which awards a Gambian student money for schooling. Now if this is not enough reason to get one, let me tell you, August is one hot month :)

Miss and love you all.

Well, I am no longer untouchable. I gave in to the craze that is the cell phone. As an American accustomed to technology and ease I fell into the "convenience excuse" to get a phone. I'm going to miss living in the stone ages where one actually had to set a meeting time or actually get off their asses and to much appal, meet with other humans face-to-face.

How about D-town??! The Tigers slain the evil empire and now have a 2 game to 0 lead on the A's! They look very impressive and have a lot of confidence right now. It's good to see the Tigers turning things around from recent failing. Mets - Tigers World Series?? Ah, I love October.

Oh yeah, my number if calling from the US. > 011 220 9862388

The Gambia will be holding presedential elections this weekend. Its a pretty wild time around here and we (Peace Corps) in the city can't leave our homes until Sunday for safety reasons. For a fairly accurate representation of the goings on check here.

Hey Brother Matt and Sis-n-Law Steph...Congrats on your 11 years of marriage. How amazing. You guys are quite the honorable and aspire worthy couple. Thanks for being a great example for Jon and I and maybe someday we'll be as blessed to have such a wife to deal with a Strefling/Lundy :)

Tell the boys I miss and Love'em.

Well, one of the volunteers, a Ms. Kellie who had the pleasure of being in my village during training has been taken. Yes, she was victim to a predator that is always lurking when new volunteers come into country, like a succulent lamb to a starved lion, she didn't have a chance. As soon as the preying laid eyes on her it was all over. Kellie is now engaged to Craig, a fellow volunteer whom she met less than 7 months ago. Oh, this Peace Corps cult, it is something.

To their credit, they're made for each other.

Good luck to them, but I'm still wearing my Peace Corps garlic necklace. I don't envisage a girlfriend, yet alone a wife anytime in the near future.

In case you haven't heard the exuberant, full-of-life Stevey Irwin was killed today by a stingray while filming "Ocean's Deadliest" near the Great Barrier Reef. I don't think there is or was a man as passionate about life as Irwin alive on this planet so it is certainly unfortunate and sad to say goodbye. The saddest part will be to see his kids grow up without a dad that absolutely adored them.

Also, in sad news, Andre Agassi has bowed out of USTA in a tearful exit after his third round loss to some punk Becker. These life events sure bring it home to you. I'm getting older and life is not slowing down for me.