The two singer...... The costumes of most of the girls are Merdita since in days of old this town was in the Merdita region - now south of us. Under communism the Puke region was created. But a few of the girls were the Has dress. Some people have come from villages in that region which is east of us. I will note that it is very hot and they danced about 12:30 on a hot, sunny day!!!

Standing with one of the

dancers, her mom and sister. Mom was very proud of her and asked me to take pictures.

Boys are holding the banner in front of the school. ALL WERE SO VERY HAPPY. Everyone was hugging and loud shouts from joy!!

Banners advertising the competition....Still on the wall of the school.

Another 'colorful dress' with the boys in white.....I loved their dance - steps had a memory for me of Irish and Scottish Dances.....

Another beautiful dance

the presenters - one in Merdita and the other in Has costumes. They are with one of the coordinators of the festival. He stopped what they were doing for their foto opportunity!!!

Merdita group is amazing and musically so outstanding. ALL THE BELLS AND WHISTLES. This was a classical Russian piece...even I knew it!!!

Dancing is not limited to the performers. There is Dancing in the Streets...

At the end of the evening the star performer who grew up in Fushe-Arrez, the blond directs the singing and dancing. the school librian whose husband is an organizer, the tallest is an English teacher and the other woman was a judge who has written a lot of local music and catelogued the traditional music......GREAT GROUP OF WOMEN!!!!

This young man's grandfather was the best ever in the country. While I understand that his father is also very good....I am thinking that he may be challenging his grandfather. I mistakenly thought that he is Roma, because of the color of his skin - I was told NO.....that is such an insult in this country. They do not even count as citizens and children are not schooled!!! OOPS, Margaret

Boys do not dance in our town...WHY, I asked - as you can see many of the boys are quite good and have their own style!!!

I loved these dresses - white with different colors......

and not all dresses are white.....loved the black and white swirls.....

These three boys represent Tropoja. Sadly, the US Embassy still does not allow PCV or their US employees to visit because of blood-feuds. Though, most from my region say that these have generally stopped.

Gramsh is like Fushe-Arrez and was created by the communist government. They are not far from my training site south of Elbasan. Again, a variety of costumes by region.

Here is a glimpse of the parade down the street to the stage. Some groups are small while others are very large.

On the stage you can see that Albania is not out of a cookie-cutter. The dances, songs and music had a commonality, but some stong difference. I especially liked the girl who played the drum....don't think that was the tradition!!!

As with all festivals, people from the region came with crafts. Local women were selling table clothes and jewelry. From nearby villages women came with the traditional clothes of area. One person brought a collection of musical instruments. And a group from Kosovo came with various items. During there problems with Serbia, they have been refugees here and received aid .

The students of the community come to welcome all. Included in this was the mayor and other important people of the region. The judges were also introduced. While all of these performers showed different dances tonight. When the competition begins only 6 girls will dance and two will sing. But for tonight, I enjoyed seeing all part of the festival.

There are not only children representing their communities, local performers join in the celebration. Sadly, I had to ask about each singer. Many grew up nearby and now live elsewhere. I think this is also a highlight for those attending. A free concert from professionals adds to the delight.

From Macedonia was a group that I think really are professional. Loved the costumes. And the performance said much the traditions of dating long ago in the area around Lake Ohrid.

The town is preparing for the Festival. I learned that last year they had balloons in the center of town which all burst. Leasons Learned!

I only wish they had more such events. People are out giving paint touch-ups throughout the town. Putting on their best face is always wonderful. People will be arriving from throughout Albania and neighboring countries. ALSO Puke TV will be recording this for all in the area to see. Last year, before I arrived there was an interview and a show of the event on the Major Television station.

The musicians are warming up on the steps of the school. Many people in the town came to listen during the practice. The man in the center is the head of the program.

People started arriving in the afternoon. All are greated in the school with drinks and food after their trip. Someone said 'cocktails', well not really was my response. However, when I went up I saw that indeed for the adults that came with the children - yes, you can have a cocktail!! Drinking in Albania is VERY DIFFERENT from the US!!!

Two of my favorite girls in the town. THE BEST at performing and so very smart.

These boys told the story so very well

The Story told by some and listened to by others......

THE END OF THE STORY.....continued to be told for so many years....

Marita has the role of 'Mary'....she is the best english speaker in town, teaches Religious Education , best cantor I have ever heard, sings in the choir, sponsored a young girl into RCIA......beautiful inside and out.....she wants to become a pediatrician.....someone I wish I could help her more and more.....(one of NINE children, whose mother still wears the traditional clothes!!!)

These boys are the best of altar servers...and play the role of Paul and 'teacher'.....Easy for me to understand....in the best story of the bible. You can see that the Bishop is front and center to see the play (the young boy next to him cannot walk and given a special seat) and behind him is the production of the show on Puke TV!!!! This is local news for the region.....

And what a joy to all the students who participates.

The story continues....costumes are wonderful. A production for all in the community. Loved the continuing joy of all who attended...

Two excellent students.....the scene behind was drawn by the German student who is spending time on mission with the sisters.....

wish you could all enjoy this joy and see the bless of all these students....

The first picture is the welcoming of Jozephina to the town. The spirit of the town was exploding. Preparing

I went out to the town around 11:30 to see what was happening. My first 'role as a volunteer' was to show them how the US flag is flown.....wrong on a car, wrong on the town - upside down, trying to explain that this is a disaster sign. My site mate's husband, Nikolai was in charge!!!! He is the doctor the head of the medical department for Puke. He is also a former mayor, whose family has lived in the region long before the town was created.

Jozephina arrives and pictures were hard, because all was on TV......the flowers that she was given were sadly picked by Flora from her garden - a gift from Aunt Bubbles!!! Her joy that her husband wanted to show the 'best' of the town!!!! You can also see that some of the children came out in traditional close of the town.

In her speach she talked about all that the party has provided to the town......She talked about the road reconstruction and MOST IMPORTANTLY the arrival to internet to the schools. She paraded around to the school - which is next to the town center - with the school director to go and see the wonder of the new world the party brought to F-A!!!! OK, I can't participate in their party - but that would bring my vote!?!?!?

The last picture is the gathering and spirit.....Odd to me is that the American flag along with the Albanian flag, NATO, EU and party flags!!!! And the music of the party - in English

I will post tomorrow.....

This is the original church. Obviously, this crowd would never fit into the church. My guess is that there were about 10,000 people that Tuesday. I was told that on the feast it is about 100,000 people who come. Some even come the night before and campout.

The other building is the home for the many priests who were present.

Above the church people walk up to the top of the rocks toward the cross. What I was unaware of is that people bring food to share. Most come as multi-generational families. On the rocks are candles that are lighted as prayers to God.

This is walking down to the Church and open pavilion. The other building you might see, is the building where there are priests available for reconcilation. In this picture, you can see families together. Sadly, there are also people begging. And the sale of many articles plus food.

The Feast of St. Anthony is June 13th. For the thirteen Tuesdays before the feast people from all over Albania come up the mountain to the very old Church. Most people make the pilgrimage walking up the mountain.  When they arrive they light candles all over the rocks. I should note that people come to pray with their rosaries - or the prayer beads. It is really an equal opportunity for people of all faiths to praise God.

I chose to go up to the Church on a minibus. I am so very glad that I did that. I was told that you can walk up in about 45 min. to an hour.  While the walk would have been nice, I enjoyed the experience without sore feet.

This sign in the town points the way for the pilgrimage.  This Church(kjsha) is outside Laç (the ç is like ch). Shna is the word for Saint. Ndout is Anthony.

Mass is said in this open air courtyard. They have a marvelous sound system. So when I arrived I could hear the Mass. People were all gathered around. Many people were fervently in prayer while others were talking and moving.

My reaction was that this must have been what it was like when Jesus spoke to the crowds - but without the sound system!!!

At the time of the consecration, most people knelt...

As you look through the crowd you will see women in traditional dress, jeans for the younger and everything in between. Mostly, though, people in their 'best'.

The statue of St. Anthony was continually surrounded by people touching and holding their children up to him.

SEE PART 2

I went up the hill to see how my neighrbor is making wine. I am clueless on the process she uses. She is sitting and sorting the grapes. Some of the grapes will be used for wine and some will make Raki. Raki is a pure alchohol. It is clear, like vodka. A common product in Albania. The first time I had a little, I wasn't feeling so good the next day! Now, occasionally, just a little.....

In the front, is the blue machine. It has a crank that will press the grapes in the first process. It will then be placed in large jars. After a week or so, there will be grape juice. But beware. I was given some juice and wasn't careful. It exploded ALL over my kitchen. I guess it was fermenting. I sent time getting rid of my 'red' kitchen.....

Note that there is also a pile of discards that will return to the yard. Always recycling and reusing.

Here is a picture of my co-worker in front of the jar about to become wine. On the ground you can also see corn that is being dried to become cornmeal. This is be bread during the winter.I am sitting with Tomi. So much work, and she does not drink wine.

During the last weeks we celebrated Bajrmit - the end of Ramadan. They celebrate for 3 days, but offices, schools and businesses were closed the first day of the celebration. It was the first time that I realized which shops are owned by Muslims and which are Catholic. I went over to Puke which has a mosque and even more places were closed for the celebration.

And this is a long weekend in Albania. Monday is Mother Teresa Day. Her feast on the Church calendar is in early September when she died. The Albanians are celebrating when she was beatified. I am sure that she is also the only Nobel Laureate. And I find it even more interesting that they are honoring a woman. The culture is very male dominated. Yesterday I went over to the school library where a number of children - mostly girls - gave presentations on Mother Teresa. They had written poems, and gave dramatizations about her life. They also quoted from here words. VERY NICE

All of this religious celebration in the only country that was declared atheist!

Hello to All,

Hope your summer is relaxing. Mine is ‘different’. I think nothing is really happening – then realize that all is really happening. I just forget that change is now such a part of my life. I have been in Fushe-Arrez for a week. I have not spoken to a native English speaker. Oh, my. For a talker….well, I will learn.

Some thoughts on the crazy last week.

Still looking for another place…..originally nothing to cook with, stove for heating to come in fall…..broken fridge is in another room…..water continually runs(when on)…Now have stove….My counterpart is looking for another place for me.

But then, let me give the American perspective.

Water: 5-7 am, 12-2 pm, 7-9 pm - Hot is turned on and I can feel it – but doesn’t come out. There is a shower head – but only a drain by the toilet???? Learned to wash my hair with a liter of cold water! Over the kitchen sink or the bathroom drain. In a room with too much body odor, remembered Mam’s statement of always being clean, with a small bowl of water. I have soaked dusty feet and cleaned with the small bowl. Last night enjoyed the cold water after a 95 – aka 35 – degree day. Enjoy your shower and tub… and constant water!!!

Women have LOTS of questions. You are alone and here in another country. Women grab teens who are learning English. The Albanians ask questions we would never consider…age, how much money do you make??? Forget the fact that I have left children behind…..and am not married.

People are incredible. The shop owner wanted me to have a soft drink with her. The woman at the bread shop gave me the pita type bread! When I went to buy an chocolate ice cream. YO! Women I have met have given me so many items and are more than willing to help with anything. But still have their place. Oh, PC has a role for me….Is Fushe-Arrez ready? For a woman who left family to come to their village. How do your children feel??

Lots of time to walk. Not what is done in Albania. WHY? I have yet to find many places that are not uphill. But what do find on my walks. There are a number of people in traditional clothes. I have not taken any pictures, trying to honor them. I think now that some will be more open. One was walking down my street with a couple piglets. Today she was walking with her cow. Yesterday, I thought someone had a small dog. Oh, how wrongly American. It was a new piglet and she had a slick to show it where to go>>> , the pigs outside my window are so

clean. Forget the old concepts. And they are taught to be picky eaters…..animals after myself.

Went to the council meeting – 10:00 am. There are 13 members on the council from 12 partie all men >> You can’t even imagine the loud voices. First was the strategic plan which is part of my being in Fushe-Arrez. That was relatively pleasant. Then giving aid to the families in need- unemployed (about 25%) I could pretty much understand this argument…. the yelling. Then another subject, that I couldn’t quite figure…language!?!More Yelling?!? The mayor, after much time said, would you like to leave(not in English, but can understand….YES.) I went into my office across the hall and said to the women ….”need grua….all borre”. They laughed. Quickly I said the PC is non-political. They continued to laugh and know that I meant no harm.

Bank> If they want to join tourism. LOTS to know. Couldn’t use ATM since last Thursday and even with account numbers cannot get money. I have had to borrow from counterpart. Tomorrow, I am off to a larger village. REMEMBER they have only had ATM’s for 2 years, they have only tried democracy for 18 years.

Last, went to mass Sunday afternoon. Church simply lovely in the setting. Oh, the choir would sound FABULOUS. What acoustics! So amazing. Sounded like all voices were present. Not knowing the language…I only knew the responses……. I finally appreciated Latin…I will send pictures later did not want to interrupt. MY thoughts…too traditional – 10 male servers entered with the priest. Four different types of servers…acolytes, I could figure. The readers were two teenage girls and one of the servers who spoke frequently. TRADITION…… I looked around and saw many women in traditional clothing. WHO AM I TO SAY????? Held hands or raised hands at the Our Father. Kiss of Peace….all exchanged greetings and even with the crazy foreigner. (servers in some order went to the priest and gave the traditional double kiss on each cheek) Then the boys greeted those nearby. All who went to communion received on their tongue. Since that last happened when I was a teen and realizing the Peace Corps desire to look at the culture – YO – I went to the priest and took the host in my hand. After mass people were talking, kissing the two statues. The German sister was SO upset. She had to walk outside to talk to me and was apologizing to the wrong person…..Sounded like Victory…..To me a celebration of community. On the way home “talked” to neighbors.

Hope this wasn’t too long. Impressions just keep growing.

LOVE TO ALL

miss you

Margaret

Since I arrived in Albania, I have seen a background of mountains. In my village there are nearby hills – and yes, some of my PCV’s live up hills. And looking out everywhere on all sides are mountains. And some of them are still covered with snow!!!

We drive a number of times a week into Elbasan. The winding road takes us through the hills. Mountains again are on either side.

I went on a visit to another PCV. The town Kucove was built on the side of a mountain. All walking was up and down. We saw some e lovely parks, the school, the bashkia (municipal building) and the youth center. In the hills of Kucove, I saw in use a mosque, orthodox and catholic church. OLV members would appreciate that the pastor is from Italy. We also stopped by a church from 1200’s, St. Nicholas was closed for the day. But I think the 4 of us might have filled the space. The surrounding cemetery had tombstones on the hill that were destroyed –many from the 20th century when communists declared the country atheistic. From this spot, we could also see the military base with old planes and an airstrip.

The next day we went to Barat. It has the beautiful pictures of hundreds of houses on the side of the hill. Again, as we walked up and down, I realized that I am a flat-lander. We went up to the castle and heard the lovely legend of the mountains on either side of the city. The legend is best told from the vantage point of the castle. Of course, it was a rainy day – better, I was told on a clear day when the details of the mountains are available. I can't believe that I walked up to the castle that has been a fortress for thousands of years.

Again, last weekend I walked up to a mountain outside of Belesh. Walking up, I am grateful for the ability to climb. Also wish that I didn't have the fear of heights - the fears are but much better than when I was young. Coming down has been the challenge. Both times, I have fallen. Balance on left foot leads to a slow and graceful fall. I will blame the rocky paths.

To their credit, Peace Corps did ask if you can walk three miles on rocky roads. They mean it.

Missing all of you and the flat lands.

Margaret

Can it be....

Hello to all,

I am sorry for the delay in my writing. Reasons and excuses – but during the course of my writing you will be aware. Random internet connection….culture classes, language classes, knowledge of work environment, more classes and papers, plus projects…… On “Hub Days” we go from our villages into Elbasan. Much More on those adventures around Albania.

Know that I think of you often and want to share the many experiences which are becoming normal – well, sometimes.

The Peace Corps of 2008 is not your PC of old. While, letters really are still the best. Today, I am given a cell phone for instant communication with the office for Safety and Security – words we hear often. Most of you know that this is pushing me over into an unknown (no… refused to join) world. My phone was the last of the group to work – too ironic. The best part is that my first call was to Nate a few days late to talk about his third birthday…Now that is Important. And I was so glad to listen to him and have the phone. The volunteers are all still figuring out how to call family and friends.

Internet is my other communication tool. I have limited access. But not complaining. No other training sight has it. On available days, I can contact and be connected to the rest of the world.

Some thoughts on the last four weeks: (And hopefully this will answer some questions posed to me.)

1) I came through the clouds 4 weeks ago to find a very green country. The latitude is the same as Ohio so I didn’t expect that spring had begun. The woman behind me in the plane was returning for a visit and speaking English to the passenger at her side. She exclaimed, “That is my green!” For the Irish in me having just celebrated Paddy’s day, I was taken aback.

During the last month in Albania, I have watched the olive trees come to life. Trees that have bud and blossomed. Roses and Callalillies are bursting forth. With the spring rain, the land looks greener and greener – her green.

2) I live in central Albania which is beautiful. Now for some results of communism and the years that have followed. In the last month, I have had my impressions further understood with classes. For now my impressions. I live in a communist era building – concrete walls so thick… This building have been upgraded. I think each person owns – so mine is on the plush-side. The lady I live with is a widow who owns a gas station up the hill from the village. Most of the volunteers stay with more affluent members of the community. That is because they meet the PC standards..

People in Albania are constructing everywhere - they put their lek into personal businesses and homes. They do not trust banks or any markets, after the collapse in 1997. Businesses are often on the first floor – and then they build up. Their family and then other families are on each floor – or a Peace Corps Volunteer! Yards are really small farms. Chickens, vineyards, vegetables and plants. Larger ones include sheep, a cow and donkey. Construction companies are everywhere!... Though, I am not sure of their construction abilities!! The houses are imitations of those they have seen in Italy and Greece. Almost every family has members who live in those countries.

The downside is trash. It is everywhere. From their background, they think that the government should do this. (of course, we pay for that locally) So trash is everywhere. It really distracts from the beauty. The lake in the center of this village has restaurants dumping trash and water from whatever sources flowing into it. Could be beautiful! But who would eat the fish caught there. And I worry about the children who jumped in on their way home from school. I try to remember that it was Lady Bird Johnson who alerted us to our destruction of the earth. For me, not so long ago. April 1970 (Mam’s 73rd Birthday!) Earth Day began. Quicker than you think, life does/can change,. We began that change. The Albanians want to be like us. That would be a good example. And we are seeing cities and mayors trying. While most volunteers in Albania want to help with this. Our priorities have to be their priories.

3) Religion: I stated that 70% are Muslim, 20 %Orthodox and 10% Catholics. Not the complete story. Those stats are from some unknown source. We arrived Easter weekend. No one on staff knew what we were talking about when we asked about churches. The Importance was unknown to them. I will speak from my personal experience. My “host mom” (later on that story, since she is a widow younger than I), Says that she is Muslin. TRADITION!! She has served pork. And I have never seen any experience of muslin life. In the village, there is a newer mosque that my Peace Corps Trainers have seen no one attend. Occasionally there is a call to prayer. We note. I have seen a few women I am fearful to say their ages, because all look at least 10 years older – they may be my age….in black clothes with a white scarf.

More personally, when talking to my language teachers and others on the training staff, the stories are interesting. Orriela is engaged/married (later story) to a Catholic – or maybe an orthodox – and she is muslim. “No matter, I don’t care what religion my children are”. Another teacher, Irvin, during college converted from Muslim to Catholic or Orthodox (intermixed). Last week I did see 3 women in burka – the first in a month.

What I do know is that in the north the country is Catholic, from the Italians. In the south it is more orthodox, from the Greeks.

I hope to share more in the coming days. Very interesting country

Margaret

Hello to All

Bags are packed, well nearly, ready to go...leaving on the jet plane Sunday. Then to Albania.

I am so excited to begin this adventure. It sounded like such a great plan 2 years ago. The last few weeks I have come to realize that the regularity of life is about to change. Many emotions and many goodbyes have flooded me. Special thanks to all who listened during the long medical clearance. Now the day is nearly here. Of course, I know that I will miss you all. But I think this is the best plan. I keep singing one of the songs our choir has been singing this year - GO MAKE A DIFFERENCE. In my head, I keep hearing the full choir and we are clapping together!

I say all of this because I have been so supported. What a wonderful party Thomas, Margaret and in abstencia Mary and David gave. On Sunday the choir gave me a beautiful reception. I was overwhelmed with so many OLV people coming to support and gift me. WOW!!

And to receive a special blessing makes me realize that during my coming challenges, I have that support. I am taking the gifts and cards for those moments when I want to feel close to Central Ohio.

The next time I write will be from Albania. Ready for some incredible life changes and I hope to share some of this with you.

Margaret