Well, it was a good run. After 25 months of service abroad, my time in Peace Corps came to an end. Due to family obligations back home I had to cut short the last couple months.

Life back in the States is busy. It's as if the pace of life is different. Everywhere I go there are people racing around. Everyone appears to have a car. Every meal leaves me stuffed to the brim (I can't say I dislike that lifestyle change). And everyone is slightly baffled by the proper pronunciation of a little country's name in the Caucasus called Azerbaijan.

So after all my goodbyes (friends who I'll never be able to forget), after I've had all my homecoming pizzas, and after I've gotten all those pesky little details of life back in order what's next? For now I feel like I'm just getting my feet back on the ground, even as it -- and everything else around me -- keep madly rushing past. It's been fun bringing the life of another world to you all; hopefully another adventure lies somewhere around the bend.

rsEverything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

I did end up taking that dip in the local swimming hole, but only after a good rain guarenteed that there'd be some water to swim in. We went up to a village north of the city and swam right there in the stream where it scapred up against the side of the village. I broke a sandal in the current and a friend lost his shorts somehow, thus affirming my belief that a trip truly isn't a good one unless you lose something.Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

When I was in high school, I had the fortune of being one of the students with a car. We bumped around town in my Volvo all the time, listening to whatever it was we listened to then, just trying to figure out what to do with the day. Not much has changed since then. Only now, we're in a Lada and I'm not the one driving. A friend of mine insists on cruising around listening to his belated CD, "Azeri Greatest Hits, 1998." We'll suggest places to go. One friend will suggest a tea house by the park and another will say we should go to the bus station restaurant. I'll want to go to the new Turkish restaraunt in town but am reluctant to suggest it because, after all, we went there last night and the night before that.

The advantage to riding around instead of walking is the new way I begin to see the city. The drivers are concerened more with what's on their stereo than what's on the road (not too different from the States), and I'm spared from the seemingly ubiquitous fellow who shouts "west side!!" at me everytime he sees me walking down the street.

No one in the city has water yet, so the smell of cologne and perfume is becoming really overpowering in all public places. This morning I finally finished a funding request to send some of my colleagues to a TEFL conference in the fall, and other work is coming together nicely. No interesting plans for the weekend, but one of these days I'm going to try and check out one of the waterfalls that my friends say exist not far from the city. If the water doesn't return anytime soon, I think the trip to a good swimming hole might be more out of necessity than enjoyment.Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

It was an incredible two weeks in Greece (had a great time catching up with my family ;) and now I am back in Zaqatala doing my best to escape the heat. Today, it's been rainy, which has been a relief. Some tips for anyone reading who is contemplating a trip to Greece...

Athens- kind of a let down. The acropolis is worth it, but the city itself isn't much more than a booming metropolis with a tourist trap market in it's center. Anyone who wants to go to Greece should plan to spend as little time in the city as possible. The real fun is outside the city.

Sandorini- wish I could have stayed longer. The view from the island's cliff edge is unimaginable. I recommend at least a night in one of the for-rent places on the north side of the island. That'd give someone time to bounce around the shops and cafes on the south end of the island, but at an affordable price.

Rhodes- my favorite island: big enough not to feel like you're on an island, but small enough to be intimate. The castle is really cool!

These are just the places that I loved. There are a ton of other great places (like the island of Patmos, which was a morning when I unwisely decided to sleep in), and I didn't even venture far into the mainland of Greece itself. Of course, it goes without saying, that any trip to Greece should be supplemented by a hop over to nearby Turkey. The merchants tried to sell their shirts off their backs to my mom, but otherwise everything was good fun. A tip to any traveller going to Effessus: drink an Efes in Efes. It actually tastes fresher!!

Now I'm just teaching my usual run of English classes in town and wathching the world cup when the electricity is running.

Of course, I can't neglect to say the good news. Earlier this month the computer project I've been working on with my school secured full funding. Thanks to everyone who expressed an interest in helping us out! It's nice to see the school receive some help that it has truly needed, and this is really going to help out the students.

Karen, thanks for the encouraging words. I'm glad that you enjoy reading about the standard run of life over here in the AZ; & Mike thanks for the list of blogs. I'll check 'em out first chance I get.Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

There's a spot in the mountains above Zaqatala where you feel like you are standing on top of the world. The tree line appears to cut a line into the rock a few hundred feet below the summit and various shephards camps are carved into the open face, the side facing away from the wind. I stood there last week after a pretty intense hike up with a couple friends. The week before I had just done another hike, and I could feel my trail legs setting in.

After the good hike and a coule more days at site, time for my summer vacation arrived. Yesterday was a pretty long day. In the course of 24 hours, I rode a ferry on the Caspian, mingled with fishermen on the Marmara, and watched the sunset on the Mediterranean. Today I'm in Athens, soaking up the city. It's bound to be a relaxing two weeks.Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

The word for "Peace" in Azerbaijan is "Korpus," but one slip up of the first vowel can change the meaning of the word. For that reason, this morning (as my friend kindly pointed out to me later on) I spent a great deal of energy telling a local shopkeeper that I am, indeed, a "Peace Bridge Volunteer." I was thinking about that on the bus ride into town, and decided that it's not such an ill-fitting name after all. One of the principle reasons I came here in the first place was to jump the cultural divide, and see what else is out there.

This month life has been relativey quiet. I calculated that last month I spent over 50 hours traveling between Baku and Zaqatala, so as one could imagine, I haven't been too inclined to hop back on the train anytime soon. Nevertheless, I'm on the road again these days. Last week was our Close-of Service conference, and in just a couple weeks I'm off for my vacation in Greece.

The biggest thing going on in terms of work is a Partnership Project I'm working on with my school. We are trying to raise enough money for a computer lab. If anyone checking out this blog is interested in helping us out, check out the link below.

http://www.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=resources.donors.projdetail&projdesc=314-010&region=europeEverything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

I stepped off the train this morning to an overcast city. Over the weekend we had an informative meeting with Peace Corps staff regarding the bird flu. My time in Baku was shortlived, though. I jumped on a train Sunday night and got back to site 8 hours ago only to face a packed schedule. This week I'm hoping to get clearance from PC to begin raising money for my school's Partnership Program Application (we want to install a computer lab at school), and I'm working with my colleagues to finalize plans for our English Teacher conference to take place later next week.

Baku was great. I found a way to eat at the Lebanese restarant for cheap. (It's all about getting appetizers.) I also got to see some volunteers who I haven't seen for months.Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

Novruz has been great. Yesterday was the last day before the break, and there was a huge celebration at school complete with the Novruz tongal and music.

The night before I went to a neighborhood celebration of the holiday. It was the quintessential cultural experience one might imagine when thinking of Peace Corps service. There was a tongal (bonfire), and a man playing the zorna, a flute-like instrument played by the shephards. Everyone danced along to the music while waiting their turn to jump over the fire. People must jump three times as a way to ensure a year of good luck and health.

The bonfire was set next to a river bed surrounded by several houses, so after dancing and jumping we visited the houses yelling, "paya verin!" Basically, it's a tradition similar to trick-or-treating in the States. Children, and some fun-seeking adults, run around from house to house throwing their caps at neighbors' doors and leaving their sack of candy on the porch in the hopes that they will get a refill. My counterpart told me a story about some hard-working kids who got loads and loads of candy from their neighbors the year before. At the last house they went to, they threw their caps at the door, yelled for candy, dropped their sack of candy on the porch, and darted to their hiding places just like tradition calls for. But in that house lived the neighborhood drunkard, so when he saw the sack of candy, he simply picked it up and took it for himself. Apparently, Otis didn't have an appetite for the cultural stuff.Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

Birthdays in Azerbaijan...good question Barb. You'll find it funny to learn that students celebrating a birthday must bring candy for everyone in the class. Usually there's a big dinner with the family and, as with all special occasions in Azerbaijan, pilaf is on the menu. As for my birthday, I'm bringing old candy canes to school c/o a late Christmas package & cooking Jambalaya for dinner.

Today marks the 3rd week leading up to Novruz. I'm not certain, but I think it's the Tuesday of land. We celebrated today by cleaning up the property around the school. Just imagine: 800 students and 10 rakes. I took some great pictures. Everyone asked me if there is an American equivalent of the day, but all I could think of was Field Day.

"Just great," one of my students told me in broken English. "Here we are cleaning, while all the American kids get to play games."Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

What a week! Monday and Tuesday I signed up a bunch of students for a Creativity Writing Competition to take place later this month. Mardi Gras breezed by, and I barely noticed because Wednesday the new governor of the region visited our school. He was on a tour of the Tala Villages taking stock of things. Thursday I toiled away on a Peace Corps Partnership Proposal and did the same today. We're hoping to raise enough money to put a technology center in our school. More information to come. I topped it off tonight by dropping the final proposal in the mail, then eating a dinner I've never had before: Khengal made with crushed walnuts and stinging nettles. Don't try this at home, folks. My counterpart's sister said its healthy, just really itchy for whoever prepares it. Zaqatala cuisine at its finest.

Heidi, thanks for the post. And Liz, I'm just a kid from Louisiana. Never even been to Grand Forks, but I'll have to go sometime.Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

Zaqatala is warming up!!! Today was the first day all winter that I was able to walk outside WITHOUT wearing my coat. I celebrated by doing laundry, since it's never sunny enough for all that cotton to dry. It'll probably be cold again by next week. School's been going well. My students have been studying, which I find suspicious. I can't quite figure out why they are being so industrious. Also, I've been organizing an essay writing contest, which might be fun. The funnest thing I did this week was help a student write a fan letter to Eminem. Who would have thought he'd have such a following in Azerbaijan?

Last week I visited another Volunteer in Goychay, a small city about five hours from Zaqatala, for an exchange program. It was a productive trip, and on the way there I passed a road that led up into the hills above Ismaili. It reminded me the the last time I went that way. It was in January with my dad and uncle. They wanted to check out coppersmith shops in a small mountain village called Lahij. I remember the village was nice, but getting there was a real adventure. The road --which winds up through miles of mountains, crosses several small rivers, and dances along the edge of hair raising cliffs-- was not in its best condition. Yet somehow, each day an old, Russian-made bus inches along to the top where the Lahijis anxiously await fresh goods and gossip from below. We woke up early so we could catch the first bus, but we were too late. So we found a taxi driver who was willing to take us up to the top for a reasonable price. In no time we were on our way. But as we turned off the main road for the mountain 4WD track that is the way up, our driver got sweaty. I don't mean it was hot (though it was rather uncomfortable in the car). I mean, he saw the road and suggested a higher price. We agreed and encouraged him to go on.

By some luck, a little bit of good traction, and a lot of help from God we made it up. It turns out we made the run on a sunny day, and everyone we passed on the way down said things were clear ahead. The driver wasn't worried because cars couldn't make it up, he was worried because his car actually WASN'T 4 wheel drive! I speculate he had some bragging rights after negotiating the track in the winter behind the wheel of a Lada. We snapped a picture with our driver, grabbed some lunch and went on our way.

Lahij is situated on a small speck of flat ground inside huge bowl. On all different sides houses dot the slope, and shephards move their flocks around looking for tiny specks of green for their sheep. In the bottom of the valley is a large, unfinished bridge probably built during the Soviet era. We had just enough time to take pictures of it all, check out the shops and meet some interesting people, before catching the afternoon bus down. I learned (then subsequently forgot) how to say "Thank You" in Lahiji, and my dad found a really cool oil-burning lamp for under $20. Thankfully, we made it up and down in one piece. Now the only question is whether or not all that copperware was really made in China.Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

One of my students chased me down today in the hall to give me a copy of some pictures she took of my dad and uncle while they were in town. That’s a custom here. If you are going to take a picture somewhere of someone, it's common courtesy to provide a copy for everyone in the shot. Her gesture reminded me that I need to get around to writing some of our stories.

Getting Around

Repetition eventually gives way to normality. Sure, you have those moments every now and then when you step back and take a look at what you’re doing: leading a group discussion in a foreign language, walking past a cow on the way to work, or, for that matter, walking to work; but nothing in AZ has done more to shift my notions of life in the developing world than how it is I get around. I had forgotten about this until I started guiding my dad and uncle around the country. There we were standing in the parking lot at the airport, them cringing under the weight of heavy luggage, while I undertook the complex rituals of taxi negotiation.

”Six Dollars is the price I paid to get here,” I stammered as I dealt with a mob of drivers and bag handlers on the exit ramp. I was prepared to go up to ten dollars.

“Twenty Dollars!” I knew this was the catch -- the foreigner/tourist/yuppie price, set aside for people not knowing that the price was ten dollars. So I shot him a look, the look that says, “I know your game.” It's important to note here that the job description of Peace Corps Volunteer is acurate. A few months after I started, I realized one day what I had become, a guy spending way to much time haggling over the price of a 30 cent orange.

“Twelve Dollars. Let’s go.” No need to keep my relatives waiting around over a measly two dollars. I took his offer. Once on our way into the city, I explained what was going on since the whole exchange had taken place in Azeri, Greek to them, not to mention that they probably weren’t at the top of their game having just finished a 23 hour trip. The ride wasn’t long. Within 15 minutes we were at the base of the Absheron Hotel, a relic of the Soviet era with its many public squares and Intourist Hotels.

”Looks like it did 30 years ago,” my dad said.

People often assume that the first day is the day to hit all the big sites. Not so. Obviously, we spent a considerable amount of time catching up, but during their first days in the country they caught up on some badly needed rest. It wasn’t until a couple days after their arrival that they got to experience a real trademark of my life in AZ. I warmed them up as much as possible. We visited Turkish restaurants and drank beer at the local tea houses, rather than the expat bars. But nothing was to prepare them for the train ride back to my site, not even our forays on the local bus system. It was an overnight train from Baku to Zaqatala via Hajigabul, Yevlakh, and Sheki,12 hours in all. We tried to buy a fourth ticket so that we could have a private room on the train but were shut down at the train station by the ticket agent. Sometime around 1:30 AM the train stopped in Hajigabul and a man, presumably the fourth ticket holder, entered the cabin and sat down on the empty bed. I gave it no notice. I was tucked away under blankets on the top bunk with my wallet and passport safely in my pocket. My uncle, however, wasn’t so comfortable. My dad attributed his lack of sleep to the sounds of the train, but my uncle found something a little more unsettling. Across from him sat the man, still sitting quietly in his place and STARING RIGHT AT HIM! Ben told us the next day that he held his stare for a good 3 or 4 hours before he got off at Sheki. I slept like a rock.Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

It’s that time of year again. No, not the time to break New Year’s Resolutions, but time for me to take on the uneviable task of working on my Peace Corps Quarterly Report while battling frequent power outages in the local internet cafe. Otherwise, all is well in the AZ. I’m working on a big display to show my students next Monday for MLK day, and a ton of laundry is waiting for me at the house. Leave it to the guy from Louisiana to hang up wet laundry while it is freezing outside. That wasn’t starch making my shirt look so creased.

RSEverything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

It's been a pretty busy holiday season around here. My dad and uncle just left after spending a couple weeks touring AZ. We went all over the country checking out some of the big sites, then we went to Tblisi for New Years. It was a great trip!

There were some great stories from their trip like the "road" that we took to get up to the mountain village at Lahic to buy copperware from the local blacksmiths, or the experience of walking across the no-man's land between Georgia and AZ; but there's too many to write about for today. Check out my blog later this week when Iget the chance to put some of the highlights up.Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

With the departure of AZ 1, not much seems different except that the end of service seems a little closer. I'm sad to see some of my friends go, some of whom I may or may not ever see again. But I enjoyed seeing them off last weekend amidst all the revelry that comes with a usual trip to Baku.

Lately, I've been making preperations for when my dad and uncle visit later this month. The Visa application process is more difficult than I thought it would be. One would think that a country trying to bring life to the tourism industry would make the process more user-friendly, but apparently that will take a few more years distance from the Soviet years. Still, I'm pretty excited about their visit. We have some sightseeing planned for Baku and a lot of travelling to do.

Later this month I have a big wedding in Baku, a theater production of Mark Twain's The Adventures of Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn at school, and a trip to Tiblisi. Needless to say, it's a busy month. Also, I've been working on putting computers in my school, but with a significant lack of local resources in the community that has been a challenging endeavor. Right now we're working on some grant options. We'll see where that takes us.

Weather is cold, though much to my disappointment we havne't seen snow yet. Being from Louisiana, land of snowless winters, I'm looking forward to hurling some snowballs at friends, neighbors, and annoying students. Stress relief. In the meantime, I'm doing my best to stay warm.Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

Nothing's like the day

you see new camera shots.

Today was that day

and it was the reason which I got...

out of bed

only to see

a taxi driver

staring at me.

He and I haggled,

fought a fair price;

but as a foreigner,

it was double for the ride.

***

I pulled the camera from my bag,

when I got to the city stop.

I was excited about new pictures

as I entered the photo shop.

I handed the photo tech

my camera with glee.

Today I would see pictures of better times,

panaramas of debauchery.

But as he pried the camera open,

he immediately snapped it closed.

I wondered what had heppend.

He said, "the film's been exposed."Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

I'm not a very patient person in the States. Waiting on a late friend or slow bus, I might shuffle my feet while counting each passing minute. Today, however, I was a little more Azeri than American. I waited 30 minutes roadside for a taxi -- probably because I haven't perfected the Azer-method of hailing a cab, something involving a nod of the head and switching your bag from one hand to the other. I realize its in the small things. While I waited I soaked in the local scene. A group of employees from the village factory stood outside on their cigarette break, and a dirty car stopped momentarily across the street. "ATA, BUNU YU," was written across the driver's side door: "FATHER, WASH THIS!!"

Every now and then a foreigner comes tromping through town on a bike or with a giant backpack -- one huge difference between life here and life my old site is the proclivity of a tourist to visit. Most of the time I see them from a distance; they're always easy to spot. The other night over tea, a friend told me she always recognizes a foreigner by the way they walk Making it clear why they are so easy to see, she told me that it is in the way they walk. Americans, she pointed out, walk down the street looking at everything and speaking as loud as they please. Azeris on the other hand keep looking forward. To look for a taxi coming from the opposite direction, they will stop and turn their whole body. The other day, my counterpart glanced backward to see who was coming up from behind her. Meanwhile, her friend's called her on it. Maybe it's just my village?

The reality is that the more we rush, the more we miss. I have trouble imagining days when I worked from sun up to sundown. If you want to spend a couple years thinking about the most mundane things, join the Peace Corps. This week has been particularly slow, so I've been going to a lot of toys. Last night I went to an Azeri wedding, and tonight I'll do the same. Saturday there is another, as well as a marathon guesting day coming up the day after tomorrow. We are on Fall Break, so it seems like the school community is catching up on their social obligations. Other than that, I've been working a good bit. Last week, I helped organize a teacher's workshop where the English faculty discussed different problems in the classroom. The workshop was two hours and consisted of discussions about four separate topics. Many teachers aren't even familiar with the concept of varied learning styles. I spent the week preparing the teachers to facilitate the discussions, in the process sharing ideas and resources about teaching that many of them had never seen before. They were so excited about the workshop, they demanded we meet again. Possibly we make it a monthly thing they suggested. The frustration and lack of purpose that I felt through most of year one is being replaced with some satisfaction. While minor, the success of my projects are beginning to show. I'm finally doing what I came here to do.

***

All statements on this website are the opinion of Rob Savage and those who choose to comment on his posts. The material on this website does not necessarily reflect the policies of Peace Corps Azerbaijan. All material on this page is intended to fulfill the third goal of Peace Corps, that being to help teach Americans about another culture. Any questions or concerns about posts on this website can be emailed to someguy31582@yahoo.comEverything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

I'm glad to hear that you enjoy the postings. I'm going to try to get a couple more up this week, maybe some more pictures. As for the food thing, ever since I moved into my own place, I've been eating like a prince. Azerbaijan has all sorts of fruits that most Americans have never heard of. They're delicious! I also have enough spare cash to buy the food I want. Instead of a greasy bowl of boz bash for dinner, I can have spaghetti and meatballs. Life just got a lot better.

This week has been busy at work. Tomorrow I'm hosting a workshop for teachers at my school. We are sharing ideas about common problems in the classroom like multilevel classes, bad textbooks, student apathy, and others. Because most teachers aren't used to the group brainstorming process, I've been steadily working to train facilitators and group leaders. I think it's working, but tomorrow I'll see the results of all the work. I hope it turns out well.Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

The exotic food binge hasn't stopped yet! This week it was tongue. My counterpart is a big fan, so she prepared some for dinner last night. I had a small bite, then drank a bunch of cherry juice to wash the taste out of my mouth. It tasted something like salted pork.

Thankfully, last weekend in Baku I had the chance to eat some Western food, a little less grease and a little more spice. Though my vacation was short-lived. I dined on some Kofta (rice soup with meatballs) before jumping on the bus for the nine hour bus ride home. I was fast asleep when the man sitting next to me woke me up. He was holding up a bottle of Vodka and wanted to drink. Do you know how hard it is to fall asleep on the bus?!? I was pretty upset, but politely declined and spent the next few minutes looking at landscape pass by my window.

At some point I noticed a convoy of dump trucks and some military personnel. I didn't see much, but knew enough to know what it was. Last weekend, a helicopter on its way to Pakistan, crashed in central Azerbaijan. The helicopter was on its way to Baku where it would refuel before going on to its final destination. There the crew and chopper was to provide aid for the disaster struck region, but it never made it. A link to the Washington Post artcile is below.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/10/22/AR2005102200898.html

It is a sad thing to see others die while working to help their fellow man, but I suppose it's an honorable way to go.

There's not much else going on with me other than work as usual. Although, I do recommend that you check out news on Azerbaijan. Things here are interesting and becoming more and more so each day.

***

All statements on this website are the opinion of Rob Savage and those who choose to comment on his posts. The material on this website does not necessarily reflect the policies of Peace Corps Azerbaijan. All material on this page is intended to fulfill the third goal of Peace Corps, that being to help teach Americans about another culture. Any questions or concerns about posts on this website can be emailed to someguy31582@yahoo.comEverything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

"No one cares how much you know, until they know how much you care."

A friend of mine in Sheki fed me that quote last week. I thought it appropriate. Work here requires a lot of motivation, without which you're just treading water. The trip to Sheki was nice. I got to see the Khan Saray, a palace built 18th century by the local monarch. Because of Sheki's location the Silk Road, there was a lot of wealth in the area; and the Khan used it. The palace is filled with intricate paintings and incredible stained glass windows, while outside the palace there are the remnants of what was once a beautiful garden. Unfotunately, as with most things, words and pictures can't come close to duplicating the experience of going there. Below I attatched some link provide snapshots and info about the area.

BBC Article on the Silk Road:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/683020.stm

This is a site I picked up from Google. It has pictures of the palace and of the Caravan Saray, a famous hotel in Sheki:

http://www.galenfrysinger.com/sheki,_azerbaijan.htm

Karen, I'm sorry to hear that you had to eat all that stuff growing up. I guess I've been raised in an age where we are, truly, very picky eaters. Although, I've learned that you can put a little Tony's on anything, and it'll be just fine. Below, I posted some pictures that a friend of mine took while he was visting Azerbaijan. His photo album is available at photoblogger.com. Look up Azerbaijan.

To the left is a picture of Tala's most exciting form of transportation. Everyday, I dodge these guys on my way to school. Next to that picture is a group of guys hanging out. Not much to it, but that's a common sight around here. There really isn't much to do sometimes. In the village there are less tea houses, so the roadside seem to have filled the void. I imagine that off camera, there is a group of guys playing backgammon or dominoes. As for the picture at the top of this post, it's nothing more than one of those streetside shops. Again, not much to it. But it does provide a glimpse of the daily sights and sounds of around here.

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All statements on this website are the opinion of Rob Savage and those who choose to comment on his posts. The material on this website does not necessarily reflect the policies of Peace Corps Azerbaijan. All material on this page is intended to fulfill the third goal of Peace Corps, that being to help teach Americans about another culture. Any questions or concerns about posts on this website can be emailed to someguy31582@yahoo.comEverything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

A good diet is a thing to be treasured – something that fills your belly, at least. That’s not to say that I’m malnourished or suffering from some fit of dysentery. Have no fears mom. No, instead I’m taking on the cuisine of my fellow country-men. Today it was a dish called Xash: cow head, really. Doctors here have said it’s good for bone and joint aches. Also, last Friday I had a serving of a sheep’s unmentionables. Actually, it wasn’t so bad. Tasted a bit like chicken with the texture of a fish.

While I’ve been devouring the bizarre and unthinkable, most of my friends and colleagues are fasting. Believe it or not, it’s not the exotic food that drives them to their fasting ways, but the Ramadan season. It’s actually an interesting time. In fact, I was tempted to try it myself, but I’m worried that eating less food might be unhealthy for me, considering that I’ve lost a bit of weight this year.Nevertheless, Ramadan is a big holiday around here. I don’t recall so many people observing the “Oruj” in Yevlakh, but then again my host-family was not as religious as my new family. The way that they observe the fast is by not eating or drinking anything from sunup to sundown. My host brother hates this part of it, since he has a natural aversion to opening his eyes before 7:00. That human trait crosses all oceans. Also, as with most of the world’s religious seasons (let’s not think about Mardi Gras when I say this), alcohol and large festivities are off-limits. For the Azeri’s, that means fewer wedding parties.

None of this has really affected me much, except that I’ve been eating lunch by myself for the past few weeks. I’ve also been working on not speaking about food around my friends for fear of being rude. This has been a challenge. Today I accidentally offered a colleague something to drink. Think about when you keep forgetting to bring a video to the rental place. Every time I let a comment slip about food, that's how I feel.

In the midst of all this, I’ve been shoring up my work schedule. Schools in Azerbaijan use the first few weeks of school to finalize the schedule. Now that things are nearly set in stone, I’ve started choosing which classes to teach and which classes not to teach. That also means that I’m choosing which teachers I’ll be teaching with. The same colleague who I tempted with offerings of tea and pastries, recognized the opportunity to tempt me with what she called an “enticement.” In many ways, it’s easy to perceive the workings of this gift-giving and hospitable culture through the lens of Russian corruption. But to my mind that's a shallow approach. Besides, I had already decided to teach with her anyway.

Still, I got some honey and a Goychay pomegranate out of the deal. I’ve been told by some friends that pomegranates from Goychay are some of the best in the world, so I was pretty excited. Then again, I had been on an exotic food binge, so a pack of peanuts might have excited me at that point.

Sunday I celebrated my one-year anniversary. On October 9, 2004 I was sworn-in as a Peace Corps Volunteer; on October 9, 2006 I’ll finish my service…inshallah. There wasn’t much to the celebration. I had dinner over at an English teacher’s house, and played Uno well into the night with her kids. I think we ate pilaf.

A lot has happened since my last entry, but I’ll have to throw it into the next entry. I’m out of time, taxis to the village stop running pretty early. Next weekend I’m off to Sheki, a mountain town about two hours east of here. The week after that I have Mid-Service Conference, as well as a much needed visit to Baku. I promise to include some pictures in my next entry.

RS

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All statements on this website are the opinion of Rob Savage and those who choose to comment on his posts. The material on this website does not necessarily reflect the policies of Peace Corps Azerbaijan. All material on this page is intended to fulfill the third goal of Peace Corps, that being to help teach Americans about another culture. Any questions or concerns about posts on this website can be emailed to someguy31582@yahoo.comEverything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

I never thought I would hear myself betray my childhood instincts and mutter the words, "I'm glad the summer is over and school is back in session." But there you go. I said it. It was a hot summer. Also near the end there really wasn't much to do. After spending all that time on the sickbed, I was burned out with reading, and you can only go to so many weddings each week. So I was pretty excited when it came time for the Day of Knowledge, the Azerbaijan holiday set aside for the first day of school. The festivities were minimal, but I did give a speech to the entire student body of 700 students...in Azeri. That was memorable for all in attendance.

The most notable thing that happened to me this week happened at home. The rooster was doing its call at the ludicrously early hour of 3:00 AM. I sat there for a while trying to figure out why on Earth a rooster would be up so early, but my thought was interrupted by a sudden urge to make a trip to the outhouse. Sorry for the vivid details.

There's not much to our outhouse. In fact, it's really nothing more than a shed surrounding a hole in the ground. Because of the layout of the house around the gardens, they put the shed in the middle of the chicken coup. So on this particular morning I was trying to dodge chickens while fiddling with my flashlight. Once I got there I heard a squaking somewhere it shouldn't have been. And surely enough, after shining my light down the hole, I saw that there is a worse fate for a chicken than the dinner plate. It was a sad, sad day for that poor animal. I never learned what happened to her. By the next afternoon the squaking had ceased, and my host family wouldn't give any clues as to what action they had taken. Feel free to post your speculations. I really am dumbfounded.

Other than that, things were pretty slow these past couple of weeks. Last night I met the famous Azeri singer Konul Karimova. She was in town to sing for her relatives wedding, or so I think. I actually didn't meet her, but danced around her with some friends from school while she sang one her many hit songs.

Below are some pictures. Enjoy.

Robert

The picture at the beginning of this blog post is from the top of a carousel in Heydar Aliyev Park. From there you can see an unobstructed view of the Greater Caucaus Mounains. Someone from town said that they top out at about 3500 meters.The picture above was shot on mainstreet. The layout of the city reminds me of a quaint German town for some reason. During World War II/The Great Patriotic War the Russians used German POW's to build public works, so its possible this has something to do with it. I'm not exactly sure why it looks the way it does, but I do know this city looks nothing like its counterparts to the South and East.

The wretched rooster and his posse: this is the cage that is next to my window. Everyone morning around 5:00 you can find me contemplating how to make this roosters death look like an accident.

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All statements on this website are the opinion of Rob Savage and those who choose to comment on his posts. The material on this website does not necessarily reflect the policies of Peace Corps Azerbaijan. All material on this page is intended to fulfill the third goal of Peace Corps, that being to help teach Americans about another culture. Any questions or concerns about posts on this website can be emailed to someguy31582@yahoo.com Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

About three weeks ago a fellow volunteer visited for the weekend. Itwas a fairly uneventful weekend since our plans to summit the 3500 metermonster that overshadows my town were rained out. Instead we dined at alocal Georgian restaurant drinking the home-brew wine from an old Pepsibottle – a method of bottling not too uncommon for the Azeri commoner.

Unfortunately, the indiscretions of the weekend left me under theweather. If it wasn’t the homemade wine that did me in, it was thefive hours of hiking in the rain that did. By Monday morning the fluhad set in full force. I tried to rest as much as possible, butWednesday I had to depart for an In-Service Training in Baku. WhileBaku is a city that affords certain luxuries not available in villagelife, I always end up leaving more drained than I arrived. Whatever thereason, this trip was no exception. Despite my attempts to go to bedearly, sleep plenty, and eat right by the time I returned to site thefollowing Monday I was really sick!

Thankfully, it was no problem. I had a stack of books, no place to beany time soon, and Seasons 1 & 2 of the West Wing to watch. It’s beennearly two weeks since then, and I am finally over it. Last Monday Ished off the last of the flu and started living normal village lifeagain. I even offered to help my host-family collect hazelnuts, butthey declined. Maybe they didn’t want to get sick.

Now my host-family is shucking corn. They’ve moved on, as have I. Theweather is warming up again in Zaqatala and today I’m going to see anAmerican, something I haven’t done in nearly two weeks. Also, schoolstarts next Thursday so I’m getting really excited about trying out someof the ideas that I’ve had over the summer. Things will probably changea lot next week, since the end of my summer is approaching. But nowthat I’m healthy again, I’d say I’m ready for anything.

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All statements on this website are the opinion of Rob Savage and those who choose to comment on his posts. The material on this website does not necessarily reflect the policies of Peace Corps Azerbaijan. All material on this page is intended to fulfill the third goal of Peace Corps, that being to help teach Americans about another culture. Any questions or concerns about posts on this website can be emailed to someguy31582@yahoo.comEverything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

Settling into village life has been nice, except for the rooster outside my window. Man, I hate that animal! Otherwise, it's great. The food is always fresh, the people are more friendly, and I spend a lot less money. During my time in Siyazan, I got used to animals dominating the streets, but that was nine months ago. It's kind of fun to dodge cow droppings and chickens everywhere you walk. We also have our share of goats and sheep roaming around.Thankfully, the forest provides some vegetation for the animals to eat. In my experience in drier climates, they tend to feed on trash.

That's not to say there's a shortage of trash here, but things do seem to be much cleaner. That makes for a nice place for gezmayi. Yesterday I went on a hike with a couple teachers and their kids. It was great! We didn't go too far up the mountain, but we did go enough to break a sweat. Interestingly, the vegetation is much the same as it is in the Appalachians. I even found sumac. On the way down we gourged ourselves on blackberries, apples, and hazelnuts. I hardly had room for my boz bash later that night. No worries there.

I also got to go to a Karate match yesterday. Not much to say there, but that the guy with the yellow belt beat the guy with the white one. I went because my counterpart's son was in the competition. I was a little surprised with the conditions -- no mat on the floor or padding to be seen anywhere. Those kids were troopers. Kickin' the beans out of eachother on an old wooden floor. I have a feeling the real champion is he with toughest feet. I might take some lessons.

Weather is a lot more stormy here than I would have thought. After a year in the desert, rain everynight is a welcome sight. I'm sure it will get old eventually, but for now it's nice to be cool. The trees also make a big difference. I've forgotten what it's like to live with trees everywhere. In my village alone, there are seven rivers/streams/ditches. Yevlakh was always so dry.

Mostly, I've been reading a ton of books. Latest read: Price of Loyalty. Good, but now I'm ready for a fun one. I think I'm going to take on Ali and Nino - some love story about an Azeri guy and his Georgian girlfriend. Basically, I'm doing whatever I can to keep myself occupied before the new school year begins on September 15. That means I've been to a lot of birthday parties and weddings. I'm also trying to improve my Azeri some while I have the time. I haven't gotten to my Russian discs yet.

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All statements on this website are the opinion of Rob Savage and those who choose to comment on his posts. The material on this website does not necessarily reflect the policies of Peace Corps Azerbaijan. All material on this page is intended to fulfill the third goal of Peace Corps, that being to help teach Americans about another culture. Any questions or concerns about posts on this website can be emailed to someguy31582@yahoo.comEverything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov

So it's final. I will take an observation trip to my new site this week. My trip to there begins tonight with a 11 hour train ride. From there I will meet the School Director and her staff. I don't know much other that. Everything everyone has told me is that Zaqatala is an amazing place. Frankly, I'm pretty happy that soon I'll be settled somewhere for a while. I've sort of been stuck traveling without end for the past four months. It's always good to be on the verge of another adventure, but it's time to at least put my stuff down for a while and give my arms a rest.

This weekend I stayed in Baku. It's been a lot of fun. Last night I had dinner with some of the Volunteers who are on their way out. We had Georgian, and some lady was playing some old Georgian folk stuff. It was pretty cool. All in all it was a good way to celebrate our first year anniversery. One year ago yesterday I started working here as a trainee. It's crazy, but in October I only have one more year to go.Everything I write on this blog is only my opinion of life in Azerbaijan. Nothing written on this website is to be construed as US government policy or official Peace Corps publicity. For more information on Peace Corps Azerbaijan and other programs worldwide, please see the Peace Corps website at www.peacecorps.gov