As Returned Peace Corps Volunteers (RPCVs) one of the things we are asked to do is to take back what we have learned and experienced in our host countries, and share these things with people in our own community. Often, this can be difficult for RPCVs, as most people don't want to spend hours looking at photographs of strangers, or hearing stories of how we sat next to a sheep on a mini bus for seven hours. At a certain point, we have to re-examine what it means to bring the world back home with us.

Kennedy asked us to "strengthen Americans' understanding about the world and its peoples." For me, this took on a unique opportunity to not only strengthen my home community and America's understanding of other cultures and people, but to continue helping to develop youth from around the world. My husband and I recently signed up to become Area Representatives for a non-profit organization called Pacific Intercultural Exchange. The very same organization that my husband studied abroad though when he was an exchange student in Florida in 2003-2004.

As a non-profit organization focused entirely on secondary student exchange, Pacific Intercultural Exchange (PIE) offers both American and international high school students the opportunity to spend a semester or year abroad. "PIE is a not-for-profit corporation that prides itself on facilitating the exchange of cultures between young people, their host families, and host schools through semester, year long, and summer programs (outbound only). Like Peace Corps, PIE believes that only through knowledge can the fear of the unknown be eliminated and true cooperative unity be achieved." 1

PIE is open to any American or international high school student interested in foreign exchange. In addition, it is constantly searching for host families and volunteers to help expand the program by acting as the local area representatives in cities, towns, and rural areas throughout the United States.

"As RPCVs we have the advantage of knowing both the stress and benefits that come as a result of living and learning in a foreign country, opening our minds to new cultures, lifestyles, and flavors as well as what it is like to become a member of someone else’s family in the process." 1

For those of you who have never considered the impact of hosting an exchange student, it is never to late to participate! PIE has some of the highest standards for its' students, and for families we expect you to treat students as a member of your own family, provide them with a room (students may share with another of the same gender provided the family member is aged 10-17), and provide three meals a day. Although host families are not paid, students bring their own spending money, and the impact of hosting an exchange student far outweighs any financial compensation.

If you are not interested in being a host family at this time, there are other ways that you can help. Like myself, you can volunteer to be an Area Representative for students in your area. Even if you don't have a lot of time to commit, you can volunteer to be the representative for even just one student. Area Representatives assist host families with the placement process, and act as the primary contact for students placed in your area for the duration of their host stay. "PIE is seeking to break the model of the assumed American lifestyle portrayed to international students by the media, and show participants that there is no “typical” American or family." 1

I never expected that after returning from my time in the Peace Corps, that I would now be the one helping to find host families that treat international students as well as my own host family treated me. I only hope that those you who are considering the impact you can have on a student, are willing to reach out and contact PIE for more information. My host family will always be a part of my life, and I will always remember how they made my time and experiences in Peace Corps so much better than I ever imagined. I only hope that we can do the same for these students.

If you are looking for more information or want to get involved, call 1-888-743-8721 or visit the PIE website at: http://www.pieusa.org

(1: http://edweb.sdsu.edu/sdpca/back_issues/v22n6.html)

Let me preface today's blog by telling you that I am a proud Christian married happily to a Muslim man. I lived and worked for three and a half years side by side with Muslims in a Muslim community. They were open, accepting, and genuinely gracious to me about my religion. The image that American media paints of the Muslim world is not the reality that I have seen with my own eyes.

"The God who made the world and everything in it, being Lord of heaven and earth, does not live in temples made by man,[c] 25 nor is he served by human hands, as though he needed anything, since he himself gives to all mankind life and breath and everything. 26And he made from one man every nation of mankind to live on all the face of the earth, having determined allotted periods and the boundaries of their dwelling place, 27 that they should seek God, and perhaps feel their way toward him and find him." Acts 17:24-27

If as the Bible says, that all human beings come from one man, and that he created all nations, and that he gives to all mankind life and everything in our lives... then why do do so many Christians in America treat Muslims as if they were not created by the same God that made Christians? Why do Christians feel they have the right to discriminate, judge, put down, harass and ridicule a race of people created by God himself? What makes us so arrogant as a nation to think we are more loved, or better than anyone else that God put on this earth?

This week I've finally gotten back on facebook. I've tried to stay a way for the last two to three months, as every time I got online I would see posts and comments from my fellow Christians about Muslims and Islam. Honestly, it took every ounce of my willpower to just stay off the internet and not fight back. I hate that so many people make assumptions and judgments about millions of people they've never even met before. These human beings who want nothing more than to lead a good life, raise their children to be good people, to live a life dedicated to God (yes the same one that Christians worship, and if you think that is inaccurate maybe you should read Islam for Dummies). These are people that God created too. It hurts me to know that we are teaching the children of America to hate. We are openly and actively discriminating Muslim exchange students, and our own Muslims who live in America. Whatever happened to love thy neighbor? Do we get to conveniently pick and choose what passages of the bible to believe? Do we no longer believe that racism is against God's desires for us? (IF you don't believe that, here is a list of passages in the Bible that tell us God wants us to love each other, to accept each other, and to coexist together: http://www.openbible.info/topics/racism)

Look, I know I'm one person. I know that this blog may no longer even be read by anyone. But it hurts my heart to know that there are people I love who have no problem advocating for hatred against other people that I love, in the name of Christianity. The television show West Wing once used an analogy that the Terrorist Muslim groups are to Islam what the KKK is to Christianity. So why are we still acting like all Muslims are terrorists? Stop blaming it on Christianity and saying it is what the Bible says, because it isn't and presuming to know God's mind and heart is offensive. Presuming that God doesn't want us to love the Muslim brothers and sisters he put on the planet with us is offensive. Just stop it and learn to accept those people that God puts on this planet. No one asks to be born. We don't choose to be born. You can't honestly think that there are different Gods who create babies to burn in hell for being born into the wrong region of the world... really, are we that arrogant? Wake up and try living a life by example instead of trying to spend all your time telling everyone else how to live. If Facebook has become a way for Christians to justify their bullying then I want no part of it. We ask our children to not cyber bully, yet we have no problem using Facebook to publicly proclaim superiority. God shows no partiality. ( Romans 2:11 )

1 John 2:9 Whoever says he is in the light and hates his brother is still in darkness.

One of the best parts of being a Peace Corps volunteer is sharing with the rest of the world all the things you see and do while in Azerbaijan. Two industrious volunteers, Tim McNaught (Az 7) and Brad Kessler (Az 8) calling themselves the "Baku Dreamers," have produced a video that is set to the tune of Jay-Z and Alicia Key's song Empire State of Mind.... but this one is entitled Baku State of Mind. In 2012, the capital city of Azerbaijan, will host the biggest and most widely televised music contest in Europe, Eurovision. Since Azerbaijan won first place this year, Baku will naturally host the next contest, and Azerbaijan is earning it's place on the map. These two volunteers have made what I feel is one of the best PR pieces I've ever seen for Azerbaijan... showing some of the places that are actually enjoyable for expats, volunteers and foreigners to visit while in the capital. Please watch the video, and if you can, rate it! These volunteers did an amazing job, and my hat is off to the two of them for promoting Peace Corps third goal in one of the most creative ways I've ever seen!

This morning I nervously opened my friend and former site mate's blog post. Farid and I had been anticipating their trip to Tbilisi for her husband's US visa, and were of course, expecting complications... as being in the Peace Corps in Azerbaijan almost always has something that complicates whatever you are attempting to do. Their visit went similar to our own, in the respects of being over prepared, scoping out the location of the interview, and being asked about every odd item in our bags. Her post can be read here: http://salammeanspeace.blogspot.com/2011/07/notes-from-georgia-part-i-zipper-drama.html

To my great relief, they were approved for the immigrant visa! I just wanted to write my joy and congratulations to them both!

For the few of you who still follow my blog, you'll be happy to know that Farid and I are finally moving out of my parents house! We were approved yesterday for an apartment, and will be moving out around July 7th or 8th. The current tenant moves out July 1st, and then of course the apartment will need to be cleaned... but then it's ours!

We've had a lot of set backs in the last eight months since my service ended. We came home on October 13th, with a nightmare-tale of return (see my posts from October 2010) and ended up spending almost the entire readjustment allowance to get back. Then, the economy was much worse than I had imagined, and I was unable to find a job for more than three months... I ended up taking a part time position instead (which I am still at.) The car we bought at auction blew up, causing us to spend our entire move-out savings on yet another car (three in the time we've been home!) and now, finally, we are able to move out. I will post pictures of course once we get moved.

I'd like to provide a little advice to any current PCVs that may still read this blog. However much time you think you will need for readjustment, finding a job, getting on your feet, or just feeling normal: double it... heck, triple that. I honestly thought that we'd be moved out and back to life as usual by new years. I was wrong. It took an additional six months on top of that for me to begin to feel normal again. And the reverse culture shock never entirely goes away. Last night I went to the Mariners game in Seattle with Farid, and I had a moment of extreme culture shock that I just couldn't describe. Hearing the national anthem live, sitting in the sun trying to catch practice balls, and eating cheese fries and nachos in the ball park... it felt unreal. There are a lot of times where I feel like I'm in a dream, and that I'm going to wake up in my apartment in Yeni Ganja. Readjustment takes time. It's a slow process and I'm finally getting there, one step at a time.

Just before the end of my service, I submitted a request to the National Peace Corps Association to form a returned peace corps volunteer group for volunteers who served in Azerbaijan. It took a few months to get a reply, but the NPCA approved our request and will be giving us official recognition as an RPCV group! This is great, but also a bit frustrating as well... in true Azerbaijani fashion, the volunteers who served there tend to procrastinate (you know it's true!) So the burden of creating materials, events and finding information for the group is currently resting primarily on my shoulders.

For now, we have a Facebook group, as well as an email address (friends.of.azerbaijan@gmail.com) and a quarterly newsletter written by yours truly. It isn't much, but it's a start. So if you are an RPCV from Azerbaijan, please let other members of your group know the news. It's my goal to keep my blog going as the online publication forum for our quarterly newsletter and RPCV information. I can't see just deleting it, and want to continue to reach out to those who served. If you are interested in helping with the quarterly newsletter, have ideas for the group, or comments regarding the Friends of Azerbaijan RPCV group, please contact me at the email address mentioned above.

This makes me wish I had a video camera while I was in the Peace Corps. Props go to Az 5 Ujar volunteer Jeff for this great video of road tripping through Azerbaijan. PC Volunteers spend hours, days, weeks, on buses and crowded modified mini-vans called "marshrutkas" shlepping back and forth between their site and other volunteers sites or the PC office in Baku. This just gives you an idea of all we have to look at for hours on end.

The Peace Corps began in 1960, when then-Sen. John F. Kennedy visited and challenged students at the University of Michigan to serve their country in the cause of peace by living and working in developing countries. I'm sure you are all familiar with the quote "And so, my fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you; ask what you can do for your country." Most of you (if not all of you by now) have at least heard of the Peace Corps. Even those of you who have been closest to me over the last 4 years still occasionally ask what the Peace Corps does...

In 1961, President John F. Kennedy established the Peace Corps to promote world peace and friendship. The Peace Corps' mission has three goals:Helping the people of interested countries in meeting their need for trained men and women.Helping promote a better understanding of Americans on the part of the peoples served.Helping promote a better understanding of other peoples on the part of Americans.In a more simplified answer, we spend 2 years and three months (or an additional year like myself) in developing nations around the world. We teach whatever we possibly can to anyone willing to listen. We learn the language, the culture, and the values of the people we serve. Then we come home, and we try our hardest to get anyone to listen about our experiences and the culture of the people we served. (Hence this note.)

Throughout its history, the Peace Corps has had to adapt and respond to the issues of the times. In an ever-changing world, Peace Corps Volunteers have met many new challenges from AIDS education, trying to keep developing nations up to date on new technologies, fighting for environmental preservation, and helping businesses struggle to survive in new market economies. Peace Corps Volunteers don't give things to the communities they serve, rather, we teach the communties we serve in how to do things for themselves. We work in villages, towns, and cities around the globe.

In 1961, the first Peace Corps Volunteers accepted assignments to serve in six countries. Since then, nearly 200,000+ men and women have served in 139 countries. The world has changed since then, and the Peace Corps has changed with it. Today, 8,655 Volunteers in 71 posts around the world are serving 77 countries. This work is more important than ever.

There are many notable Returned Peace Corps Volunteers (RPCVs) in different sectors throughout history. You can find a list of these RPCVs that came home and continued to serve their own communities here: http://www.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=about.notable

Peace Corps officially established: March 1, 1961Total number of Volunteers and trainees to date: 200,000+Total number of countries served: 139Current number of Volunteers and Trainees: 8,655Gender: 60% female, 40% maleMarital Status: 93% single, 7% marriedMinorities: 19% of Peace Corps VolunteersAverage Age: 28Volunteers over age 50: 7%Education: 90% have at least an undergraduate degreeCurrent number of countries served: 77 countries

Volunteers by Work AreaEducation: 37%Health & HIV/AIDS: 22%Business Development: 14%Environment: 13%Agriculture: 4%Youth Development: 5% (this was my program!)Other: 5%Where Volunteers ServeAfrica: 37%Latin America: 24%Eastern Europe/Central Asia: 21% (this is where I served!)Asia: 7%The Caribbean: 5%North Africa/Middle East: 4%Pacific Islands: 3%Please, if you have actually read my note all the way through, take some time to look at my photos, read some of my other blogs, and ask questions. The Peace Corps experience doesn't end when we come home... we still have 1/3 of our mission left to complete. Happy 50th Anniversary Peace Corps! Here's wishing you 50 more years of success, friendship, and new volunteers. I'm proud to be a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer!

Today I received an email in my inbox from the company that is screening for the position I applied to in December. I had a great phone interview with them just over a week ago, and I was nervous waiting for a call for an interview. When I didn't get a call on the 5th or 6th (that was the date that they had mentioned they would make decisions for who is invited to the next round) I was a bit disappointed. But today, I found an email inviting me to attend an interview next week on Wednesday! I'm really excited, and a bit nervous, as I'm out of practice in my own interviewing. I have been teaching interview techniques for the last three years, yet I find myself a bit apprehensive about the process...The position is with a great non-profit organization that is doing some wonderful things for the local community. It balances office management with event planning (two things I enjoy and am great at!) Not to mention, the pay is good enough to stay with the company for a few years, or until I'm promoted to something better. It also has a bit more flexible hours so that Farid and I can spend more time together.I'd love to comment on a recent trend in employment that I've missed out on while I've been gone for over three years. It's come to my attention that employers now "pre-screen" candidates for positions. Not only do they review your resume and cover letter, check up on your references, and have you interview, but they also pre-interview. I've actually had 4-5 telephone interviews where I was screened to see if I was even eligible for the position. Some of these pre-screens are simple, just verifying the information that you listed in your application, or following up on any information that wasn't clear. A few of them however, have gone into significant detail regarding how my past experience might play into the current position I'm applying for. This can be a little nerve-wracking, especially if you're not in the mind set that it is technically an interview. I imagine that employers are being inundated with more applications than they would normally receive for a typical job posting. With unemployment being so high, and more people seeking second jobs to make rent, it's more competitive and therefore more difficult to narrow the field down to their top candidates. I hope that other recently returned Peace Corps Volunteers find this useful, and can see an advantage in knowing that the pre-screen is just as important as a full blown interview. Good luck to my fellow RPCVs, and good hunting!

As of today I've been COS'd for 2 months (Close of Service= our official separation date from service in the US Peace Corps.) To be honest, it's felt like six months instead of two. There are a mix of things that are going well, and then those that still frustrate me beyond belief. As for the good, Farid has officially been recognized as a permanent resident of the US. He has a green card in hand now, a bank account, and a social security number. Waiting for these felt like an eternity, as it can be hard to prove you exist without any ties. He has started his job, and has even begun to learn how to drive. Yes, he passed his written exam for his drivers permit! We've had two big holidays with the family (Halloween and Thanksgiving) and have enjoyed spending time with family and some close friends. One thing about being a Peace Corps volunteer that is really difficult for volunteers is that we give up so much when we go to our countries of service. We spend so much of our time talking about America, that it makes us miss the little things... washing machines, dish washers, hot showers on demand, hot showers daily, television in English, driving a car, and food, food, food! We begin to idolize how great life is in America. Like any place, once you leave and go somewhere else, you begin to forget the faults. I find I'm having a bit of "the grass is greener on the other side" syndrome now that I'm back. I find I miss so many little things about Azerbaijan that I'm feeling frustrated adjusting to life in the US. I often feel out of place here now that I've spent so long overseas. I miss the cheap fresh produce every day. I miss the rusty, old, ridiculously fast driving public transportation that took me anywhere I wished to go in the city for only .20 qepik. I miss having an apartment of my own where I was able to live without worrying about other people around us all the time. I miss having a job, a place to go where I feel valuable, and feel like my work is important and means something. I miss my boss and my counterparts at work. I miss having someplace to go every day. I miss my friends, who I could always count on hearing from someone every day whether Azerbaijani or site mate. I miss feeling connected to my community.We haven't even been home for a full two months yet, but it feels like so long since that life. I find I am dreaming about Azerbaijan and people I knew there. It makes me realize that readjusting to life in the US means that I will have to adjust so much more than where I live and what I do on a daily basis. I'm still in the process of looking for a job that will even bring a fraction of joy and inspiration to my life the way that my Peace Corps job did. After having been gone for three years and four months, I find that America has changed so much since I left. The economy is worse than what I had heard, particularly in the area I'm in now. Many of the jobs that are available are in retail, and even those are competitive to get. Farid has had to take a position in retail, and on the dreaded grave yard shift in order to help us not completely drain our checking account. I've applied to a lot of different higher education institutions, and am hoping that even one in my area will pan out for me. Everyone keeps saying to be patient, but I don't like feeling useless. I've never been out of work this long before, it's a new experience for me.Sometimes we here in America tend to think that life is so much better here than it is in other places. We have so much stuff, that we feel like we have the ideal lifestyle given the alternatives. Honestly, I felt, and still do, that life in Azerbaijan was more simple. It gave me a chance to learn to love my job, figure out what my passions are, and gave me a chance to enjoy life and everything in it. I'm feeling a little "homesick" for Azerbaijan.

So I've been home for 2 weeks now. In that time, I've managed to apply for a ton of jobs with not one call (yet) and have had one heck of a chest cold. I've been sick from the moment I stepped off the plane, and attempted to make a doctors appointment without success... for those of you who are soon to be RPCVs (Returned Peace Corps Volunteers) beware of the CorpsCare Insurance. I was told to check online for a doctor in my area, but there is not a single doctor on the list in my area, within 25 miles of my house who is still working at the numbers listed for them. I was unable to make an appointment, and have consequently become more sick than I should be. Instead, I will probably just go to a walk-in clinic if this chest cold isn't gone by the beginning of the week.

Farid got a nice scare today... He went to apply for a job on base at the language school, as he speaks 5 languages and would totally rock as a language instructor. When he got to the base, the guards in the visitors pass area told him that he didn't have a valid stamp in his visa. They told him he needed some I-94 thing stapled into his passport with the stamp. He didn't have the I-94 thing, so they wouldn't let him on post to go apply for the job. I of course panicked... you all know me, classic Rae. So I called the immigration office in Seattle. They referred me to another number. I called and explained what had been told to Farid, and the woman at the immigration office was amazingly helpful. She told me that the military guards were wrong, and that I-94 forms in a passport are used for people on NON-immigrant visas to the U.S. Farid is here on a CR-1 visa (Conditional Resident visa) and that is considered an IMMIGRANT visa. So, he doesn't need to have an I-94. The only thing he needs for work is his green card. She said not to worry, that his green card will be arriving in the next 4-6 weeks at our address, and suggested trying again once he had the actual physical green card in hand (instead of just the temporary stamp in his passport.) That of course, made me feel much better, and at the same time annoyed me that my mother and Farid had gone all the way to the base only to be told incorrect information.

We didn't get a car on Tuesday as we had hoped. The "online auction" that we hoped to buy a car through, didn't tell you until you actually bid on a car that you have to bid through a broker. They also failed to mention that a broker charges a fee for registering, a fee for bidding, and a one time fee per transaction... so approximately $600 just to buy the car through the broker. So, instead, we are going to a physical auction on Saturday night. There are 81 cars up for bid at the auction, and you don't have to pay anything to participate. I'm hoping that because it is starting to get cold, rainy, and it will be in the evening, that not too many people will go. I'd love to drive home on Saturday. So keep your fingers crossed for us! At this point anything drivable without mechanical problems would be desirable!

Aside from all that, we haven't done too much yet. I still haven't even taken Farid to Seattle... I know, I know... I suck. But, when we get a car it will be easier to show him all the great places we love about the Pacific Northwest.

Just wanted to let you know that we finally made it home! My husband and I are finally in America. However, we had some MAJOR complications on our way home. We were fine all the way up until we arrived in Frankfurt for the last leg of our trip. Naxchivan was wonderful, and we visited with Farid's family for two days, which was perfect. Then we flew to Istanbul, which was also wonderful. We got to see Farid's brothers, and spent a lot of time just doing the tourist thing. We stayed in a little cheap hostel in the heart of the city where we were out late each night. It was fabulous, and I really enjoyed our time there even though we both had bad chest and head colds by that time.

Then we flew from Istanbul to Ankara for a short layover. That leg of the trip also went fine. Then Ankara to Frankfurt. That too went fine. However, when we got to Frankfurt, we were not able to leave the terminal were our Istanbul flight landed, and head to our boarding area for our flight to America because it had a one hour layover on the way to Seattle in Iceland. Since the flight had a layover in another European Union country, that meant it had to board in the domestic terminal. We were told that because Farid does not have a shengen visa (the European Union visa) then he can not enter Germany... after arguing something like this "we only want to go to our next flight, we don't want to enter Germany..." "But your night flight boards in the domestic flight terminal, so you have to enter Germany to get there, and you don't have a shengen visa so you can't go to your next flight." We finally found out that the only way we would be able to get home is to buy an entirely new set of tickets directly from the international terminal (US Airlines, American Airlines, or Lufthansa via United). Understandably, I was both panicked and freaked out, and crying, making a horrible scene at the airport. I was allowed to enter Germany, but Farid was not.

I went through into "Germany" aka the other side of the airport, and picked up all of our bags. Then I had to go bring them back to the transit area where Farid was waiting. This required a police escort, and the police were very involved in helping us to figure out exactly what customs had already told us, that they can't help us, and that the only way out is to buy a ticket back to Turkey, or a new ticket to the US direct. So, we had to buy new tickets to the US. We found that if we waited a day at the airport, there was a direct flight to Seattle. This cost us $3,000. The entire amount that PC had deposited into my account that week. We didn't have enough in the Bank, so we had to use the cash we had in combination with the money in my account. However, we got the tickets.

BUT, in order to check in for that flight, I had to take all of our bags... 3 of them, plus two carry-on bags by myself all the way through the domestic terminal and to the check in counter. I waited in line for an hour and a half, only to be told I was in the wrong line, that I was in "group check in" and would need to go somewhere else with all my stuff. After explaining that I was checking in for two people, I was told that a group is for 5 or more... but the nice man checked me in anyway. It was at this point I learned that unlike our original tickets that had a layover in Iceland, we were not allowed two bags per person, but rather one. So, we had to pay an additional 40 euros (70 dollars) for the third bag. This required me to go to the second floor in a different area of the terminal. I went to pay it, only to find out that they wouldn't take US dollars. So I had to go find an exchange place all the way back where I checked our bags. Then got euros, went back across the terminal, upstairs again, and then paid the baggage fee. The lady saw how stressed I was an apologised for making me "run around the airport." I explained it wasn't her, but told her the sad story. She immediately looked in her computer and found an "upgrade" to our seats. We got the emergency exit row! Which was awesome! It was like being in business class since there were only two seats next to each other with about 4 feet of leg room! It was great.... but, we haven't gotten to the flight yet.

I digress... after upgrading the seats, I was already 2 and a half hours away from Farid. Neither of us has a cell phone that works in Germany, so he is waiting for me in the transit terminal with no clue of what is going on or when I will be back. By this point, he was worried that something had gone wrong, and had used information to call the lufthansa line. They tracked me down while I was upgrading the seats, and they told him I was on my way back in 5 min. So I left the area really happy... then I got to the security check point between the two areas. They refused me entry. They said that since my ticket was for tomorrow, that I wasn't allowed in until after midnight! I told them that lufthansa had just told me to go to their check in desk in the transit lounge, but they still said no. So I went back to lufthansa and explained in tears that security refused me entry, and they knew my husband was waiting on the other side (without money or passport as I needed both for payment and check in for the flight). So they called security, and they told me to go through a different check point and that the security would notify that point that I was coming. I got to a further check point station as instructed, but was again, denied. I insisted that they contact their supervisor as he had been notified, but they refused. Then some nice young guard listened to my story, and said, come on, it's like seriously an hour and a half before midnight, so just let her through. I finally got through, but couldn't find my way to the transit lounge! The Frankfurt airport is too large. I found the area Farid was in, but I was separated by a glass wall. I saw him, he did not see me! I was pounding on the glass when two police officers saw me, and I pointed to Farid. They got his attention, and then showed him the way to get to my area. It took over 3 hours to get back to him. Then we had to sleep on a hard bench in the transit area over night because they won't open the area to the gates at night. Needless to say, it was not a good night. We were both worried our laptop bag with Farid's visa packet would be stolen. It was not, thankfully. We finally got onto the flight, and the flight was smooth, without problems. Lufthansa is wonderful, and I will never make the same mistake again when travelling between the US and Europe. With airline tickets, you obviously get what you pay for... as the original tickets we had bought were only 550 each. So we will be trying to get a refund of any kind, as there were no notifications about shengen visas online when I purchased the tickets. In the US we arrived about 15 min late due to a late take off (too many planes on the runway). After arrival, we stood in line in the visitor's line (I had to check in with him) and were told the computers were all down nationwide for passport control desk. So we stood there for 35 min. Then when we finally got through, we were sent to another area for processing our visa packet. When we got there, the line was a good 10 people before us, most in wheelchairs and non-native English speakers. We got to the front of the line, only to be told to have a seat. They hat to check in everyone else that day before they would review our packet. It only really took about 45 more min. Which wasn't so bad. He got a stamp in his passport (it will serve as his temporary green card until the actual card arrives.) Then we hugged, and went to get our bags... some of the only ones left.

We are both very tired, and really just glad to have this part done. The travel part is becoming more and more complicated, as we just found out that the tourist visa to Azerbaijan is now only valid for 7 days... so much for going back to visit the in-laws. So, for now, we will just sit tight, and try to relax hopefully in the next week we'll be less jet-lagged. Just wanted you all to know that we are home, safe if not sound of mind.

This week was a difficult one, filled with a lot of different emotions. I cleaned out my office this week. I cleaned out my filing cabinet (my drawer) and arranged all my old projects into clear plastic cases for the new volunteer. I threw out the old exam papers and project documents. I took down the student art from my walls. For the first time, it really hit me that we were leaving soon. I of course, started to cry.

I started packing up the house on Thursday night. Took our pictures out of the frames, made piles of books and items to give away, and started sorting through all the papers tucked away into cabinets. It's so hard to determine what you can take with you, and what you must leave behind. Instead of taking Farid's spanish books, we opted to just donate them to the resource center at the Ganja Education Information Center, and bought used ones from Amazon.com instead. Most of the household items that we've purchased will go to site mates, or left behind for the site mate that is moving into our house when we leave. All of the things that made a home look like a home, are now being packed up and given away. The house feels empty already.

To top it off, today is our last official work day at GEIC. Both Farid and I are finished today. In the coming week we will come in to say goodbye, to get our letters of recommendation from the Director, and we will come to check email... but it's not the same. I've been here for more than three years now. Realizing that I will have no more projects to plan here, no more events to host, no more American holiday celebrations to prepare for... it all seems so final. In 11 days, I will no longer be a United States Peace Corps volunteer.

For those of you at home that are not RPCVs, you might not understand the importance of this chapter closing. Being a Peace Corps volunteer is so much more than just a job. It's an identity. Although we all come from different places in the U.S., we have different backgrounds, different interests, and different lives, we have one thing in common: our ability to spend more than two years (three in my case) giving our lives to the persuit of trying to make one small part of the world a better place. Whether that's through helping a business to be more successful, helping a student to finally understand the difference between "How are you?" and "How OLD are you?", helping youth to improve their lives through work and life skills building, or just helping people to understand the importance of a healthy lifestyle or environment, we come here to serve strangers; and we eventually leave here leaving behind friends and new families. It is hard to walk away from three years of my life. My energy, my creativity, my heart and my soul are in this place, it's hard to just walk away.

I know that many people leave their countries of service, making promises to return one day. Those promises mean so much to people here. They wait, and they wait, and they talk about us for years to come. The new volunteers feel like they will never measure up. But the new volunteers will earn their places in the hearts of the community in the same rights of passage that we endured. But unlike those volunteers who never make it around to coming back, I can go home knowing that I will return here some day. I am fortunate to be taking home an Azerbaijani husband, so I will feel the connection in so many ways. We will return some day to see family, friends and so many familiar faces. Although this chapter is closing, I must say that it is perhaps the best one I've had yet. I am so grateful to have had the experiences I've had. I'm coming home a very different person than what I left, and that makes me wonder if I will ever see the world the same again. Perhaps not, but I know one thing for certain... I like who I've become, and I like my new identity: Returned Peace Corps Volunteer.

For those who do not know what is going on, and want to read about Pastor Jones' plans, this article ( http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-11223457 ) makes it very clear that he and his congregation are acting against the wishes of so many other Americans. In brief, Pastor Jones is the leader of an extremist anti-Islamic church in America, and is planning on burning copies of the Koran (the Muslim holy book) on the anniversary of September 11th. He has been asked to stop, and not to do this, as it will put the lives of Americans around the world in danger and will hurt American-Islamic relations for years to come.

As a United States Peace Corps volunteer serving in Azerbaijan (a Muslim country) I strongly condemn Pastor Terry Jones for his plans to host a public Koran burning on 9/11. He is single-handedly destroying the good work of Americans around the world who are trying to create peace and understanding between our cultures. This man is a sick and pathetic representation of America, and I hope Americans can see the irreparable damage this man will cause. Peace Corps is a non-religious, non-political organization, but we are often affected by both political and religious actions. Pastor Jones' actions are both, and they are both hurtful and counter-productive.

It's ironic that so many Americans hold all Muslims accountable for the actions of less than 50 Muslim extremists, and now the world will hold American accountable for the actions of 50 Christian extremists. I can only hope that more Americans will stand up against this man and publicly condemn hate speech, and stand up for the right of Muslims to practice their faith freely. I find it also ironic that we are willing to go to war to defend our right to freedom of religion, but this man wants to take away the freedom of Muslims. He says he wants to send a message to extremists, but instead all it's going to do is fuel moderate people's dislike of Americans actions.

There is no other way to say it, this man is just insane. On today of all days, the celebratory end of the Muslim holy month of Ramadan, I'm embarrassed to call him American. He certainly does not speak for me or my beliefs.

This year was bitter-sweet. I've now done this camp three years in a row in Azerbaijan, and am always surprised at just how different each group is. This year we held two camps back to back (the same as last year) but divided the groups by age. The first camp had younger students, and the second group was older. Do you remember the days of summer camp? Your room mates? Staying up late, talking until 4am hoping the counselors wouldn’t notice, group meal times, kitchen patrol chores, playing silly games, capture the flag, nature hikes, and singing songs? Well, kids in Azerbaijan don’t have summer camp. Unless a kid here knows a Peace Corps volunteer, the chance that they even understand the word camp is minimal. The ideas of being free, close to nature, and having fun are so much more limited than what Americans know. For starters, Azerbaijani kids don’t get dirty. Sitting on the ground is “olmaz” (not allowed) as it’s believed to allow your body to absorb cold from the ground. And everyone in Azerbaijan knows that cold kills. So no sitting on the ground. Sports make you dirty. So girls don’t mind watching, but actually playing the sports? That gets you a look like you’re a silly American. Also, boys don’t wash dishes. That’s girls work. So when you assign a group of kids to do kitchen patrol, set up, tear down, and wash up, the girls are often not assertive enough to call out the boys when they don’t pull their own weight. Evening times in Azerbaijan always include a cup of tea. Even if it’s 100 degrees outside, tea is still a must. Could you imagine what would happen if you gave an American kid a cup of hot tea before bed at camp? They’d probably look at you like you were insane. BUT, our camp was not an Azerbaijani camp. Nor was it an American camp… we’ll just call it “Azerican” a hybrid of two cultures fused together. Our kids got dirty. They played sports. They sat on the ground (sort of, more like a squatting position close to the ground), boys washed dishes (and even learned to like it, as one boy said “I like playing with the water”) and yes, we still drank tea. Our camp was really the kind were we just went with the flow. For 11 days, we played games, we held classes, we had discussions, we did yoga, we hiked, we played mafia, and we ate. Boy did we eat. I have to give special thanks here to my site mate Vivian. She’s an amazing woman, and she has a special gift with her hands. She has the ability to make gourmet cuisine out of practically nothing. We ate like kings and queens for the entire camp. The kids ate all different kinds of food, and realized in true American fashion that American food means food infused with other cultures from around the world. (French toast is a hit in Azerbaijan by the way.) Our first group consisted of 14 campers, and 7 counselors. Most of the kids in this group were under the age of 18. They were energetic, fun loving, and adventurous in every way. When we gave them something new and unknown, they jumped in head first, and never questioned our logic. We asked them to do some strange things, like dropping eggs off the balcony, act out survival strategies for nuclear fallout, and tracing their body onto giant poster papers and filling themselves in with how they see themselves. As this camp was funded by the US Democracy Commission through the US Embassy we elected a camp president and vice president. We even watched “Cool Runnings” in order to promote hard work and teamwork in the face of adversity. The final night held a talent show, with talents of being double jointed, comedy routines, dancing, singing, and knitting. When the first group left, I was so tired, and I missed them the moment they got on the bus! Our second group was older. All of them were in the 18-25 age group, and we had 8 teachers. Now, have you ever tried to convince college aged students to play duck duck goose? It’s a lot harder than you would think. But by the end of the week, these kids learned to be silly too. They learned to really laugh at themselves, and really acted like a small family. The second group was a bit more obsessed with having free time to prepare their talents, and they were hesitant to do chores (aren’t all kids?) but they always made us laugh. Their energy was overflowing at times, playing cross the river they became more competitive than any other group I’ve ever played with before. Not to mention, teaching assertiveness to already assertive young adults can make for some pretty funny interactions later on. I believe one of the students successfully argued why they shouldn’t have to set the table, and it was a clear step in showing his assertiveness (he believed that he had contributed more than the other members of his team at previous meals, and that he deserved lighter duty that day as a reward.) Camp was exhausting, but fun. I loved it, and can’t believe this may be the last time I do a camp of this caliber. I feel very grateful that I had the chance to do it twice this year!

Recently a friend of mine sent me a disturbing article about the Park51 debate in New York City (a cultural center that will include a Mosque built down the street from ground zero. Article enclosed at the bottom of this blog entry.) This debate has been heating up and really creating some ugliness with it. It's really starting to make me wonder what's wrong with Americans? One of my favorite things to tell people here is that America is diverse. That we have all different cultures, and we have people from all over the world. We aren't one religion, we aren't one race, we aren't all one language. We are the "melting pot" of the world. America takes the best of all cultures and combines them. It's a source of pride for us Peace Corps volunteers to be able to say that we have Muslims in America too. That America has "freedom of religion." We are free to practice how we want, when we want, and where we want. And now, we hear comments drifting across the world to us that Americans are fine with freedom of religion... as long as that religion is just not Islam. Which is a frightening thought for the more than 1.3 million* American-Muslims.

While a friend of mine who is also married to an Azerbaijani was in the USA she noted that random people would make very unflattering comments about Muslims, (eg "why do they come where they aren't wanted?"), and thought her husband was an Arab. Our program and training officer was also recently in the US for a Peace Corps conference, and people thought he was also an Arab -- for the record Azerbaijanis are Turks (descendant from Turkish ancestry). It's really unfortunate but there's a lot of misinformation and preconceived notions about Muslims, and people are becoming more vocal with their misinformed ideas. Sometimes that vocalization further spreads hate, violence, misinformation and fear about something Americans just don't really understand.

I've begun to notice through online newspaper articles, blogs, and other American news outlets online, that the American people don't know that not every Arab is Muslim and not every Muslim is Arab (there are Christians in Egypt, Lebanon, etc. and Indonesians and Turks are usually Muslim but obviously not Arabs). Worse than generalizing all Muslims as being Arab, people really don't understand that most Muslims are peaceful people. The number of people who think that Obama is Muslim has increased too, which shows how many people don't like the idea of a diverse president representing our diverse America. Does anyone remember when the US was afraid to elect a Catholic? Without John F. Kennedy we wouldn't have the Peace Corps today. The third goal of the Peace Corps is to teach Americans about other cultures around the world. I'm not even home yet, and my work is mounting up before me. I've got a lot of good things to say about Azerbaijani Muslims, and how it really hurts when this whole debate affects the people I love and care for, and who have loved and cared for me so well these past three years.

Since I'll be home in just over a month, I wanted to send this out prior to arriving with my wonderful Muslim husband. Azerbaijan is a Muslim country. But like America, most people don't wear head scarfs, don't wear scull caps, or any outward sign of their religion. It's a secular (as in, not a religious) state, and like America, the government is run separate of religious influence. It's very hard for many Americans to understand that Azerbaijan is a former soviet union country, and lies on the outside edges of Europe while simultaneously being a Muslim country. There are influences from many different cultures here, and if one did not know it was a Muslim country, you probably wouldn't be able to tell based on just the culture and looks alone.

Now, just to dispel any confusion... Like the Christianity, Islam teaches peace, and non-violence. Muslims in general are not violent people. The same way that Christians in general are not violent people. (How would you feel if your entire religion was effected and viewed based on the actions of Timothy McVay, the Oklahoma City building bomber?) If any of you have ever watched the West Wing there is a great analogy that you should know. Think back to SATs, when you had to compare things.

al-Qaeda : Islam :: KKK : Christianity

al-Qaeda is to Islam, what the KKK is to Christianity. It's a horrible subgroup of fring people that don't represent the views of the entire group, and focus on hurting people to prove their point. So for those of you who seem to equate all Muslims with terrorism, I know this bursts your bubble, but you'll have to look more realistically at the situation. A hand full of bad people can't be the whole reason that 1.57 billion** Muslim people become discriminated around the world. It isn't fair, and it isn't practical to assume that just because a few bad people do hurtful things, that everyone else will do it too. Please, don't be one of those Americans who uses fear and misunderstanding as an excuse to discriminate and hurt people who are really not that different from us after all. As Americans we have an obligation to all Americans, not just the ones who look, act and think just the same as we do. We have an obligation to uphold our constitutional rights, including protecting religions and the right to practice those religions for anyone who wants to, even if we don't practice the same one. We have an obligation to protect each other from violence, from hate speech, and from discrimination. We have the responsibility to give every American the chance to be themselves while building a better future for all of us.

*http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Islam_in_the_United_States**http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muslim_world

NYC mosque debate will shape American Islam(Article By RACHEL ZOLL, AP Religion Writer Rachel Zoll, Ap Religion Writer Sun Aug 29, 2:28 pm ET)http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/nationworld/2012754945_apusnycmosquefallout.html?syndication=rss

NEW YORK – Adnan Zulfiqar, a graduate student, former U.S. Senate aide and American-born son of Pakistani immigrants, will soon give the first khutbah, or sermon, of the fall semester at the University of Pennsylvania. His topic has presented itself in the daily headlines and blog posts over the disputed mosque near ground zero.

What else could he choose, he says, after a summer remembered not for its reasoned debate, but for epithets, smears, even violence?

As he writes, Zulfiqar frets over the potential fallout and what he and other Muslim leaders can do about it. Will young Muslims conclude they are second-class citizens in the U.S. now and always?

"They're already struggling to balance, `I'm American, I'm Muslim,' and their ethnic heritage. It's very disconcerting," said Zulfiqar, 32, who worked for former U.S. Sen. Max Cleland, a Georgia Democrat, and now serves Penn's campus ministry. "A controversy like this can make them radical or become more conservative in how they look at things or how they fit into the American picture."

Whatever the outcome, the uproar over a planned Islamic center near the World Trade Center site is shaping up as a signal event in the story of American Islam.

Strong voices have emerged from outside the Muslim community. New York Mayor Michael Bloomberg has been steadfast in his support for the project. Jon Stewart nightly mocks the bigotry that the protest unleashed.

"The sentiment, say, five years ago among many Muslims, especially among many young Muslims, was that, `We're in this all by ourselves,'" said Omer Mozaffar, a university lecturer in Chicago who leads Quran study groups as a buffer between young people and the extremist preachers on YouTube. `That has changed significantly. There have been a lot of people speaking out on behalf of Muslims."

Eboo Patel, an American Muslim leader and founder of Interfaith Youth Core, a Chicago nonprofit that promotes community service and religious pluralism, said Muslims are unfortunately experiencing what all immigrant groups endured in the U.S. before they were fully accepted as American. Brandeis University historian Jonathan D. Sarna has noted that Jews faced a similar backlash into the 1800s when they tried to build synagogues, which were once banned in New York.

Patel believes American Muslims are on the same difficult but inevitable path toward integration.

"I'm not saying this is going to be happy," Patel said. "But I'm extremely optimistic."

Yet, the overwhelming feeling is that the controversy has caused widespread damage that will linger for years.

American Muslim leaders say the furor has emboldened opposition groups to resist new mosques around the country, at a time when there aren't enough mosques or Islamic schools to serve the community.

Rhetoric from some politicians that lumps all Muslims with terrorists will depress the Muslim vote, analysts say.

Former House Speaker Newt Gingrich, a potential 2012 presidential candidate, said in opposing the Islamic center that, "America is experiencing an Islamist cultural-political offensive designed to undermine and destroy our civilization."

U.S. Muslims who have championed democracy and religious tolerance question what they've accomplished. If the "extremist" label can be hung on someone as apparently liberal as the imam at the center of the outcry, Feisal Abdul Rauf, then any Muslim could come under attack. Feisal supports women's rights, human rights and interfaith outreach.

"The joke is on moderate Muslims," said Muqtedar Khan, a University of Delaware political scientist and author of "American Muslims, Bridging Faith and Freedom." "What's the point if you're going to be treated the same way as a radical? If I get into trouble are they going to treat me like I'm a supporter of al-Qaeda?"

U.S. Muslims are themselves divided over the proposed mosque.

Feisal and his wife, Daisy Khan (no relation to Muqtedar Khan), want to build a 13-story, $100 million community center called Park51 two blocks from the World Trade Center site. It would be modeled on the YMCA or Jewish Community Center, with programming for the entire city, and would include a mosque.

Some Muslims felt from the start that the plan was misguided, given the wounds of the Sept. 11 attacks and widespread misunderstanding about Islam. Yet they felt compelled to defend the proposal when the discussion over religious freedom and cultural sensitivity turned ugly.

Days ago, a brick nearly smashed a window at the Madera Islamic Center in central California, where signs were left behind that read, "Wake up America, the enemy is here," and "No temple for the god of terrorism." This past week in New York, a Muslim cab driver had his face and throat slashed in a suspected hate crime.

The poisonous atmosphere comes at a still fragile time in the development of Muslim communal life.

Leaders have spent years trying to persuade Muslim immigrants to come out of their enclaves and fully embrace being American. The task became that much more difficult in the aftermath of 9/11. Many Muslims pulled back, convinced that if another terrorist attack occurs, the U.S. government will put them in internment camps, like the Japanese in World War II. Their American-born children, meanwhile, have felt rejected by their own country.

David Ramadan, a Muslim and vice chair of ethnic coalitions for Republican Party in Virginia, predicts that comments from political figures in both major parties will depress Muslim voting in years to come.

Ramadan and other Muslim Republicans have been pressing GOP leaders not to support a particular mosque, but to acknowledge that American Muslims have equal rights under the Constitution.

"Who wants to come into the fold of the Republican Party today, or even the fold of the Democratic Party?" Ramadan asked. "They just increased the number of independents in America."

Today we broke our fasting. As we are leaving for camp, our bodies need to be well rested, and ready for the intense physical activity of running a summer youth camp. It felt weird to stop though, as my body still woke me up really early in the morning. I need to get back in the swing of sleeping through a whole night. I'm sure at camp I won't be sleeping restfully throughout the night, but it will be the result of catching campers trying sneak out... I'm great at catching them, and the first year even slept in the hallway to prevent the girls from leaving. Yesterday was a great day for us. We had a house guest from Sheki come on Saturday night, and she stayed and did our breakfast with us at 430am like a trooper. We of course gave her the option to sleep in and opt out, but she was curious so she joined us. Farid's students finished up their final leadership project yesterday morning, and our friend and I cleaned the house in preparation for our site mate "hub day." Almost all of the site mates came this time, and we had a nice fruit buffet. Farid and I were very good, and didn't become too tempted to actually partake in eating. After our site mates left, we went in to the office to purchase our plane tickets to America! We are very excited, as we finally found tickets home, and now will be headed out of Azerbaijan with a final end date in site. In 51 days, I will be foot down on American soil. I will be home, and there not just for a vacation this time. It feels a bit bitter sweet. I'm excited that we will finish my service and then head back to Ganja, catch a flight to Naxchivan to stay with Farid's parents for two nights, then fly to Istanbul to see Farid's brothers for 2 nights, then a flight to Frankfurt, were we will layover for an entire day (this is the price you pay for cheap tickets) and then we will fly to Iceland for a short layover before landing in Seattle. For Farid, he will still have to go through secondary processing with his CR-1 visa (conditional resident visa) and he will be issued his temporary green card at the airport. The final green card will be mailed to our house withing 6-8 weeks. He will have to register for selective service, and we will then start the job search, and start applying to graduate schools. We are looking into several places, including Minnesota, Oregon, and Nevada. Right now, we just need time to adjust to life in the US again. I have been informed by Peace Corps at our Close of Service conference that I will be going through "Reverse Culture Shock" and won't always feel "at home" in the US now. I know there are a lot of things about Azerbaijan that I won't miss. However, there are a lot that I will miss too. After 3 years and 3 months away from home, it feels a bit strange to not know what comes next.

My own husband doesn't know what day of Ramadan it is. He's confused. He believes it's day 10. I think he's severely dehydrated and it's effecting his brain. I on the other hand know, that I'm now in day 11 of my Ramadan experience. Surprisingly, I'm doing well today. Last night was interesting, as we prepared dinner, then tackled the laundry. All that extra energy felt good enough to make me actually wash clothes.

Now, I should explain for those of you who don't live in Azerbaijan, that washing clothes here is a very time consuming, and energy using event. You see, we don't have a washing machine. Our washing machine is a large plastic bucket. So after heating water for a shower, we decided that we could wash clothes for camp. The actual washing for 2 pairs of jeans, 1 pair of khakis, and 4 shirts took about an hour. You have the soaping, rinsing, squeezing, rinsing, squeezing and about 5 more rinsing squeezing cycles. By the time you're done, your hands sometimes callous, and for beginners, sometimes crack from all the water and soap that dries out your hands. Then, comes the "easy" part. Hanging the clothes to dry. I'm sure you're wondering what is so difficult about this. For most volunteers, this really is the easy part. But for me, I have some sort of bad luck. I live on the third floor of an old soviet style block apartment building. We have a corridor out front of our door, and it has an open wall to hang our clothes on the line. It's like a balcony where everything is concrete. Usually, I don't hang my clothes on the line on the outside, because the neighbor above likes to throw her trash off the balcony. Meaning, our clothes get covered in garbage after being washed. This has happened twice before. Instead, I hang my clothes to dry on the rope between my neighbors water tank, and our water tank. This has been fine all summer. However, last night, after putting all that hard work into washing the clothes, hanging them out to dry, and finally climbing in to bed after 11pm... I heard the tell tale sound of a wet "thwack." In an instant, my heart sank. I knew that sound... it had happened only once before. The line broke. With dread, we got up, put on full clothes, opened the front door, and turned on the porch light. Sure enough, there were our freshly washed clothes, laying on the dirty floor of the corridor. It took a lot of patience not to scream and yell, and jump up and down like a 5 year old who is angry. Instead, we gathered up the clothes that had fallen on the ground, re-hung the others that were still dangling mid-air on the broken lines, and went inside to re-wash the clothes. We don't have very many clothes here, and Farid in particular only has a total of 4 pairs of pants. So when his khakis fell in the dirt, I was determined to get them clean again. We re-washed the items, and this time hung them to dry inside the bathroom. It was late by the time we crawled tired back into bed. It was a rough night, as the wind howled most of the night through our neighborhood, waking us up frequently between the early hours and the time we had to wake up. We even had to close the windows regardless of the sweltering heat, for fear the curtains would rip away from the rod on the wall.

430 came early, and I stumbled out of bed to light the gas to heat our tea-pot. It takes about 7 minutes for the water to boil. Everything else was ready, so all we had to do was wait. We lay down, and for a moment closed our eyes. I jolted awake 20 minutes later. It's a good thing that we had almost an hour between 430 and sunrise, or else we would have been extra hungry today. Most of the water had boiled out of the pot, and we both sleepily sat down to breakfast at the table. As soon as we were done, it was back to bed for our sleepy brains.

Then, at 815 we woke up for work... which we gave ourselves 15 minutes to get ready for. Can you tell how tired we must have been? After throwing on clothes, and brushing our hair, we left for work, checking on the clothes outside on the line. Immediately, Farid and I noticed "gaps" in the line. We both thought, "Oh no, our clothes had been whipped away down two stories into the trees and chicken yard below!" We spent a few minutes trying to see where they had landed... nothing from our floor could be seen. So we went down to the second, then the first, and finally to the ground floor to look around in the trees and garbage strewn field behind our building. We couldn't find them. I was so upset that I was devising plans to go to the bazar and buy Farid a new pair of pants. We had to go to work though, so we got on the bus. Half way to work, we remembered that those gaps in the line were not the khakis and shirts that had fallen in the dirt... we had re-hung those in the bathroom. I felt silly, and a bit embarrassed for looking around in the chicken yard behind our building. I believe we are truly tired today.

I decided to take the day off of work yesterday, so I will combine the blog for yesterday and today. Yesterday was perhaps one of the best days yet in my experience. Since I didn't have to get up at 730 to go to work, I was able to sleep in a little more. That helped my mood immensely, and put me in the right mindset for the day. I made time for light exercise, and good stretching. I've felt so tense lately from the lack of water and proper sleep, that the stretching was really invigorating for me. I had time to clear my mind, and to find peace inside myself. I then had enough energy to clean the house, and visit with two of my site mates for the better part of the afternoon. Since I've been smarter in my eating habits, I wasn't even hungry when they ate lunch. That was a real surprise for me. However, the smell of watermelon does make my stomach act up. It's a nostalgic food, and that just can't be helped.

Farid and I talked a bit last night about Ramadan. We know that we won't be able to fast the whole month, as we are leaving for summer camp next week, and women traditionally break when their body changes cycles. We will more than likely fast up until the day camp begins, then stop when camp actually starts. This summer camp has such an intense schedule that it would be unpractical and borderline dangerous to fast while doing so much physical activity. Not to mention that I can't sleep in when I'm directing a camp, nor can I go to bed early. Therefore, we will have an 11 day break in the middle of Ramadan. We will resume the fast when camp is over on the 3rd, and may add the days to the end of Ramadan depending on our travel schedule back to the states.

Some days are better than others. Some days are so hard that I feel very close to giving up. I am 100% sure that the reason I've made it this far is my husband. This whole experience was my idea, and the fact that he is fasting to help me through the process just makes it so much easier for me. Yes my husband is Muslim, but that is not the reason I'm doing this. I've been living in Azerbaijan for three years, and each year I made excuses to exempt myself from Ramadan. But in reality, I'm ashamed to admit I was scared. I was scared I wouldn't be able to do it. I was scared that it would mean people would think I was converting to Islam (as if this would be something terrible.) I was scared my family and friends my think strangely about me, or judge me for "going native." But I'm no longer scared. This year is my last chance. I don't know when I'll be back to Azerbaijan. It may be a very long time before I get the chance to spend Ramadan in a Muslim country again. Like spending December in a Christian country, Ramadan is a very special month. People are nicer to each other, people are more honest, there are more good deeds, and more love in the community. Part of the Peace Corps experience is to truly try to understand the culture, the life, and the people. Ramadan is a part of that experience that I have been missing.

Fasting is a real test of ones willpower to not be tempted when you are cooking for others, or for yourself. Have you ever tried to cook without tasting the food you are making after spending the previous 15 hours fasting? Guessing how much salt or seasoning something needs is an interesting experience. I also find that the parts that have been the biggest sacrifice for me were not what I had imagined... giving up water during the day, and waking up so early. Each day feels a little easier in some ways, and I still have moments where my stomach feels hungry. One of my students and I talked on Wednesday about the importance of fasting. She said that it's good for one to experience what it feels like to be hungry, to go without. It makes us more sympathetic to those who do not have the choice. Which prompted me to look up some information about hunger world wide.

As of today, no one really knows how many people in the world are malnourished. The United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization measures "under-nutrition" and estimates that as of October 14, 2009 more than 1.02 billion people are under nourished. This has increased more than 346 million people since 2006. As a result of agricultural neglect, a worldwide economic crisis, and an increase in the cost of food for everyone, 15% of the world's population is going hungry*. Most of which are in developing nations. Azerbaijan is considered a developing nation. It is very easy to forget about these parts of the world. It is very easy to say "that's not America, you can't compare the two worlds" or "there's nothing I can do about it."

One of my favorite documentaries is called "Invisible Children." I first watched this video in my church collage group. After watching the video it made me want to join the Peace Corps to help more people in the world. Three years, 2 months later, here I am. I'm not sure if I've helped the world, but I've certainly learned a lot more about it. I've learned that I was pretty ignorant about a lot of things going on outside of America. It's easy to pretend that everything is fine and perfect when you are surrounded by so much excess, so much privilege. There are a lot of really great people in this part of the world. They a so similar to us in so many ways. They have dreams, they have goals, they have fears, they have needs, just the same as any of us do.

There are good and bad people in every part of the world, and no one person can represent an entire country or culture. I've been asked more times than I can count, "how do Americans feel about this..." or "what do Americans think about that?" How can I answer for more than 305 million Americans? I can't. But yet, sometimes we expect others to do the same, answer for "why do Muslims do this?" or "why do Muslims think that?" Every person is just that, a person, an individual. You can never fully understand a culture based on the thoughts or actions of a few people. Imagine how we would feel if everyone outside of America based their thoughts of America on what skin heads, or KKK members said and did. It would be a pretty skewed view of reality. The world really needs a lot more understanding about each other. Ramadan is one way that I can bridge the gap in understanding. It tests my patience and willpower, it tests me strength, commitment, and endurance. I am finally beginning to see that it truly is a sacrifice, and a very personal one.

(Disclaimer: Today's post is one of the rare ones in which I talk about my personal feelings regarding religion and politics around the world. As stated above, it is only my opinion, and does not represent the US Peace Corps, America, or Azerbaijan in any way. It's just one persons rambling thoughts about the world.)*http://www.worldhunger.org/articles/Learn/world%20hunger%20facts%202002.htm

Woohoo! I did it, I survived a whole week! Thank you to everyone for the positive comments and feedback. It really helps knowing I have a (small) fan base out there! Day 7 was really harder than previous days. I actually felt hungry yesterday. Previous days, hunger passed quickly, and my stomach was able to quiet. Yesterday however, while teaching class, my stomach decided to declare my participation in Ramadan... over and over again, loud enough for my students to hear. After work, I watched a movie to distract myself, which was a great technique. Only problem was, I didn't notice the clock ticking toward sun down. As hungry as we were, dinner was actually 10 min later than it could have been. This morning was another early start. 430 felt like 230. My brain did not want to wake up, and I was still full from dinner when we woke. Have you ever tried to force yourself to eat something when you were already full? It's not a pleasant feeling. I had to force myself to drink water, and my stomach has felt bloated all morning. However, my hopes are high as I can focus on the fact that I was successful in completing the first week... that has to count for something.

Last night was perhaps one of the most difficult yet. I was so tired and thirsty by the time dinner rolled around that I really didn't enjoy my meal as opposed to just wolfing it down as fast as I possibly could... also, not good for digestion. My stomach hurt as I fell asleep, and again, I had another night filled with trips to the bathroom from excess water. It's been a really hard week. I've been doing this for only 6 full days, and then today is the start of the 7th, and I've already lost 5 and a half pounds. I'm sure that most of that is water weight, but it surprised me as I wasn't really "dieting" or doing anything abnormal other than just changing the times I eat, and cutting out water. I'm also losing more hair than normal. This morning my hair brush revealed a larger than normal amount of hair.

Last night I was seriously close to just giving up. We had one hour to go, and I was so thirsty, that I couldn't even get excited about baked potatoes and chicken nuggets (a rare luxury item that occasionally pops up in the market.) All I could think about was water. Then, when I could drink, I felt like I couldn't get enough in my body fast enough. So of course, too much water + drinking too quickly = stomach ache.

I have one week before summer camp starts. When it does, I'm seriously questioning if I'll be able to continue. At camp we usually have a lot of physical activity from about 730 am till around 11 pm when the staff is able to finally wrestle everyone into bed, and then argue with them to go to sleep for another hour. I fear that with the already unrestful sleep, that I will be too exhausted to continue fasting at that point. There are a lot of exemptions for people to not fast for Ramadan... if you're menstruating, ill, disabled, weak, pregnant, or physically unable to fast in a way that does not add problems to your body, then you aren't supposed to fast. In addition, if you are travelling many people refrain from fasting. However, these people who start, then stop, are supposed to resume fasting and ADD the days to the end... so it would just lengthen out the whole process. I'm a little apprehensive about adding days by taking time off, so for now, I'll just keep trying as best I can.

The evening of night 4 went well, was so tired by the time dinner was finished that we went to bed early. This weekend was a bit of a different story. We work about 6-7 days a week, so we don't really get to sleep in after waking at 430 for breakfast. We go back to sleep for a couple hours, then wake up at 730 to go to work. Sunday was good because we didn't have to be at the office till 3pm. I was so tired from waking up throughout the night that I woke up early on Sunday. Like 30 minutes early. Not cool when it's your one day to sleep in. So I got up, made breakfast, we ate, went back to sleep, then slept in till 1030. Now that was nice, and much needed.Yesterday went fine, I was feeling a little hungry throughout the day, as I think my body is now adjusting to the early eating. However, by 630 in the evening I was feeling very thirsty, and very hungry. The last two hours just drug on and on. I had everything ready, and on the table 30 min before we could actually eat. My lips and tongue have been very dry the last couple days. After dinner I felt a bit better, but still extremely tired. So again, we went to bed early. I'm not sleeping very restfully. I wake up multiple times throughout the night from all the water right before bed. I woke up at about 2:30, 3:45, and at 4:20. We ate breakfast as usual, and then I went back to bed. Unfortunately, at 730 I was so tired I couldn't get myself out of bed. Farid had a class at 9am, so he had to leave the house at 820. I on the other hand didn't really need to be here till 10, so I went back to sleep. I woke up at 930, again from water, but feeling a little more rested. I don't really feel well rested at all this week. I feel like I'm in a bit of a fog, and that most things around me are not as interesting as I know they could be. I am definitely feeling a lack of engery from what I'm used to. I am positive it's due to not sleeping through the night, and the lack of water.

Well, yesterday afternoon was a bit better than the morning. Last night was a smaller, healthier meal, and an earlier bed time. I researched yesterday, and found out I had been doing a lot of little mistakes in selecting the right foods. Some of the practices I was doing were very unhealthy, and it's good that I caught them early on.

I did a lot of research about Ramadan itself yesterday, not just the food part. This month really is about self control, and cleansing oneself both physically and metaphorically. In addition to fasting from food and drink during the day, cigarettes and alcohol are also forbidden. (They usually are in Islam, but some people do these things anyway.) I don't smoke or drink, but I can imagine it would be hard to just cut yourself cold turkey from those habits. You are also supposed to pray, and use the time to bring yourself closer to God. The purpose is to build up good in your life. However, that good can be diminished by a few things too. 1. Telling lies2. Slander3. Gossip4. Making false promises or oaths5. GreedThese things are usually considered to be offensive in Islam (and with Judaism and Christianity) but they are particularly bad during Ramadan. As are swearing, fighting, doing bad deeds or actions. One is supposed to surround oneself with positive things, and not negative, unhealthy images, sounds or situations. It's kind of like how everyone tries to keep on their best behavior for an important holiday, but for Muslims this lasts for an entire month. Muslims believe that their good deeds bring a greater reward during Ramadan because this month was blessed by God. They also believe that it is easier to do good during Ramadan because this month "the devils have been chained in Hell, and so can't tempt believers. This doesn't mean that Muslims will not behave badly, but that any evil that they do comes from within themselves, without additional encouragement from Satan."1

As for the food parts, I was taking in far too many starches, and high calorie foods. Ramadan is a month were you are supposed to be healthy. Over eating, carbo-loading, or consuming extra calories to "make up" for what you skip during the day are not healthy practices, and are counter productive to fasting. From most of the places I found, they all said that it will actually make you feel more hungry during the day if you load up on all those extra calories. It will prevent your metabolism from doing a gradual slow down like it should be doing. Also, most advisers said that a Ramadan diet should contain more vegetables and fruits, less breads and carb products. It didn't say to cut them out entirely, but that they should not be the main portion of your meals. Fruit should be eaten after the meal, but with sufficient amount of time in between to allow digestion. If it's consumed too early (like right after the meal) it can cause fermentation and bloating.(2) Both of which I was experiencing, and both of which don't feel too pleasant. As I guessed correctly on my own, high amounts of sugar should be avoided, and natural sugars from organic juices and fruits should be the source of sugars instead. I was also told to avoid spicy foods, as it can upset a stomach normally, let alone an empty stomach. That would explain why I had an upset stomach the first night... spicy soup. Finally, I was taking in caffeine which is a diuretic and causes dehydration. Today is my first day without a strong cup of tea with breakfast. I'm hoping I won't feel as thirsty all day, as I drank an extra cup of regular water instead. I found out that I should also be doing some sort of light exercise. It's actually bad to try to "conserve energy" because it prevents the bodies systems from properly using the calories consumed prior to sunrise and after sunset. It can actually lead to weight gain even while fasting! Instead of avoiding exercise, it's advised to do light stretching, or walking to keep a healthy balance. I had been doing my best not to exert myself, but now I see that it's actually possible to be counter productive in this strategy. For example, if you usually eat three small meals a day, but now you are fasting, you will consume two instead. If you start eating large amounts of food during those two meals, and you don't do regular movements or exercise, it's possible that you will have more calories in your system. Losing weight is actually a good thing for overweight people (such as myself) during Ramadan. The weight loss should come from a combination of proper diet (which means not over indulging in extra calories,) normal physical activity, and giving yourself the proper amount of sleep. That means not staying up super late knowing I have to get up early, and that my sleeping pattern will be changed by the extra fluid before bedtime.

So, now that I know what I've been doing incorrectly, I have revised my routine to include:1. Meditation2. Stretching/walking3. A balanced diet4. Better sleeping habits

I am hoping that today will be (another) fresh start. Still feeling tired as I adjust, but it's now after 10 am, and I didn't wake up thirsty this morning, so that's a good start.

1. http://www.bbc.co.uk/religion/religions/islam/practices/ramadan_1.shtml2. http://www.dianasdesserts.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/bakingtips.Ramadan/Ramadan.cfm

Definitely not feeling as well as I could today. Yesterday afternoon I experienced a lot of cramps in my lower intestines about 3 hours before we could eat. It was really hot out, so I sweat more yesterday than I did on day one. I think the extra sweating dehydrated me a little more than I had anticipated. I ended up feeling so tired that I had to take a nap for two hours around 6pm. Last night was not so bad though, as we didn't over eat this time. We decided that if we were still hungry an hour after eating a normal meal, that we could always just have late seconds. It was not necessary. I of course prepared too much food, so we have left-overs each night to go with the new food. This time I included a bit of fruit into my diet, as I'm not sure taking a vitamin is enough. The fruit was nice because it gave extra hydration.

We woke up at 430 this morning again, and right away it was more difficult than the previous two days. I was not hungry. I think Farid sensed I was a bit cranky at the idea of eating when I wasn't hungry. I stumbled out of bed, for the 6th time to use the bathroom before getting everything ready. It was so hard to open my eyes, I was literally bumping into things. My brain was protesting the early wake up. I decided not to have an egg this morning, as they tend to make me feel nauseous. Not sure why, but the smell and taste of eggs usually makes me gag. I can't really eat them without feeling sick unless I eat them with something else. Instead, I supplemented with a higher calorie protein... peanuts. Oh yeah, I ate peanuts at 430 am! I also decided not to have jam with the bread, hoping that the cut in sugar content would help alleviate stomach cramps. Then we went back to bed for a few hours, meditating myself into a relaxing sleep.

Bad news though... those peanuts are high in fiber too. 730 am came with a system cleanse, and my stomach has been upset since I woke up the second time. My mouth was also very dry already, but I think that was cause I slept on my back, causing my mouth to hang open like a cat fish. Anyone ever experience that dry, leathery feeling on your tongue? Yeah, not cool when you can't drink water. It's now 930 am, and I'm feeling better than I did two hours ago. Today I'm going to research better methods of doing fasting for Ramadan. I think I need to be more aware of what foods are helpful, and which are not.

I successfully survived my first day of Ramadan. It had it's difficult moments, but was not as bad as I thought it might be. The worst parts for me were waking up early and feeling tired all day, feeling dehydrated during work, and not being able to taste the food I was making for dinner to check the seasonings. It's a bit odd to make a soup and not check the salt or seasoning content. Of course, we were so hungry by the time dinner rolled around that we had over cooked. I ended up making a soup, salad, stuffed peppers, and a casserole. It was of course waaaay too much food. But, now we know for tonight not to make the same mistake. Halfway through dinner both of us just couldn't eat any more. Yesterday while online I also found out that you are supposed to brush your teeth before the 5 am sunrise time. If you brush afterwards, the water going into your mouth may be considered cheating. So today, we had another early wake up, but slept in a little more till 430. Now that we know how long it takes to prepare breakfast, eat and brush our teeth, it was a little easier to plan for. I had a really hard time dragging myself out of bed this morning. My brain was still very tired, and was not giving the command to my feet that I wanted it to. However, we successfully managed to boil some eggs, set the table, and eat. After breakfast I felt sick. My stomach hurt from drinking so much water (I'm used to just a half a cup of tea at breakfast, not three glasses of water, a glass of multivitamin juice, AND a cup of tea...) I had to resist the urge to be sick when I lay back down to sleep again. Farid has informed me that this is a result of our stomachs still being full from last night's dinner, and then cramming more water and food in only a few hours later for breakfast. He said we should probably try to space the water a little better throughout the night, and not stuff ourselves too much for dinner time. So, a few trial and error will make this a bit more smooth. Yesterday I felt hungry at lunch time, but ignoring it made the feeling go away. I was able to concentrate on work to keep me a bit distracted, and when we got home, all that time in the evening that I would have used to cook dinner was used to catch up on washing the dishes. It ended up being kinda good for a distraction. When you get to the last two hours it can be a little hard to focus. So, washing the dishes took about an hour, then we cooked together. We had everything on the table ready to go, and then waited for the time to change for sunset.

As I am not Muslim, but wish to share in this experience, a good friend of mine has suggested that I include some form of daily meditation into my experience. As most Muslims use this month to do a little self purification, reflect, and teach themselves discipline, it would be good to share in some of the other experiences as well. I will not be praying multiple times a day, but I think after a 430am breakfast that a little meditation, controlled breathing, and clearing of the mind can be incorporated. I'm excited also that I'm not the only volunteer doing Ramadan in Azerbaijan this year. So I wish the others good luck, as we are all in this together!

This morning was the start of Ramadan. Although I've been in Azerbaijan for three years, I've never fasted for Ramadan. As this is my final year in Azerbaijan, I really wanted to attempt to fast for Ramadan this year. So, my wonderful husband agreed to help me through it (he doesn't usually fast for Ramadan, but has done it before.) 4 am came early this morning. My body has this problem where I always wake up like an hour before I need to when I'm afraid I'll oversleep. It can be good when you're going to the airport, but not so good when you're going to wake up at 4 am each day just to eat breakfast. This year, Ramadan is long because it's in the summer months. The days are longer, meaning we wake up early to eat breakfast, and eat dinner very late. Today will be a total of almost 16 hours between meals. In Azerbaijan, they also say you can't drink water when fasting. So I drank a liter of water, and some juice and a cup of tea this morning. My stomach is not used to it yet, so I imagine it will become easier in a couple weeks.

Just a little background on Ramadan for those of you who are unfamiliar with it. Wednesday the 11th of August is the first full day of Ramadan in the Caucasus. This Holy month for Muslims will continue for 30 days, and will end on September 9th or 10th depending on whether you can see the new moon or not. For those in North America who will celebrate Ramadan, the month will begin one day later (August 12th) because of the position of the moon. Ramadan is the holiest month in the Islamic calendar, and is believed to be the month in which the Muslim holy book (the Koran) was revealed to the Muslim Prophet Muhammad. For Muslims, in addition to monotheism and a belief in Muhammad as the prophet, prayer multiple times a day, doing good deeds or charity work, pilgrimage to Mekka for those who are able, Muslims must also fast in order to create self-purification. That means that for the whole month of Ramadan, Muslims around the world will fast during the days. For Shia Muslims though, there are a few small differences. But in Azerbaijan this is fairly common for practicing Muslims. Just for those of you who find it interesting, I'm including a copy of the prayer times for Baku during the month of Ramadan. Food must be eaten before the sunrise times listed, and after sunset times listed. As this is my first attempt at fasting for Ramadan, I think this is a great cultural aspect that many Peace Corps volunteers in Islamic countries attempt in order to better understand the culture. I'll try to keep you guys up to date about my attempt!

Timetable for Ramadan 2010

RamadanAugust-SeptemberSubh(Imsak)SunriseZuhrАsrMaghrib(Iftar)Isha11105:2906:4713:4918:1520:5921:2821205:3006:4813:4918:1420:5822:2731305:3106:4913:4918:1420:5622:2541405:3206:5013:4918:1320:5522:2351505:3406:5113:4918:1220:5322:2161605:3506:5213:4918:1120:5222:2071705:3606:5313:4818:1020:5122:1881805:3806:5413:4818:0920:4922:1691905:3906:5513:4818:0920:4822:14102005:4006:5613:4818:0820:4622:12112105:4106:5713:4718:0720:4522:10122205:4206:5813:4718:0620:4322:08132305:4406:5913:4718:0520:4222:06142405:4506:5913:4718:0420:4022:05152505:4607:0013:4618:0320:3922:03162605:4707:0113:4618:0220:3722:01172705:4907:0213:4618:0120:3621:59182805:5007:0313:4518:0020:3421:57192905:5107:0413:4517:5920:3221:55203005:5207:0513:4517:5820:3121:53213105:5307:0613:4517:5720:2921:5122105:5407:0713:4417:5620:2821:4923205:5607:0813:4417:5520:2621:4724305:5707:0913:4417:5420:2421:4625405:5807:1013:4317:5220:2321:4426505:5907:1113:4317:5120:2121:4227606:0007:1213:4317:5020:1921:4028706:0107:1313:4217:4920:1821:3829806:0307:1413:4217:4820:1621:36

It's had to think that I've been in the Peace Corps since June 27th, 2007. It's now been three years, one month, and 13 days. And now, I have only 60 days remaining. Only 60 days to finish all my projects. 60 days to pack up the house. 60 days to give away things that I can't take with me. 60 days to see the places I haven't been. 60 days to say goodbye.I don't particularly like the idea of saying goodbye. I know that in some ways, it's more of an "I'll see you later." I will come back to Azerbaijan. Not only because I have family and friends here, but because I truly enjoyed my time here. I know a lot of Peace Corps Volunteers have a hard time in their service, and I had my fair share of ups and downs as well... but in general, I loved it all. The things I will miss the most will probably be...1. Cheap public transportation that comes frequently (.20 qepik for anything in city, and only 7 manat to get all the way accross the country)2. My host organization. I really loved working at the Ganja Education Information Center, and as a result of my time there I am hoping to persue a career in higher education advising. I'm not sure if I will go to grad school yet, but I'm hoping that three years in an educational advising center will give me the experience many employers hope to gain in highering someone who has a masters degree already.3. My boss. (All of them really!) I had a great chain of command here. Seeing as how I've been here so long, I'm now the second on the food chain in our office. So many people come and go, that I've done most of the training, helped with the hiring, and kept the office flowing smoothly. But without the help of my boss Hasan, it wouldn't have been possible. He was perhaps the most interesting, charismatic, and outgoing man I have ever worked with. It was a pleasure coming in to the office each day. He made me love my job.4. My host family. They were great. Not only because they had a fantastic house, and kept me safe, comfortable, and connected to the community, they were welcoming as if I was really family. I lived with them for the full two years of my original service, and then have been back to visit them throughout my extended service year. They have a sense of humor that transcends language barriers... they really are the ideal host family. I was lucky to have them.5. The random-ness of every day life in Azerbaijan. I can't imagine how my life would have been different without the every day little oddities. From the woman who insisted on selling me crackers when I asked for chicken, the shop keeper who keeps asking if I'm Norweigen, or the students who continually ask me after three years "what is your name America?" It's the random, comical interactions that kept life here so interesting. 6. My site mates. Many volunteers are not placed in a community with other volunteers. I'm one of the lucky ones who had not only one site mate, but nine site mates. They have supported me through every emotional crisis, every celebratory moment, and every day that I just needed a friend. I know that I'm not a soldier, I'm far from that, but the term brother in arms finally makes sense... maybe we were just sisters in peace.7. The food. There are a lot of difficulties adjusting to any cultures food at first. But after three years, I'll miss dolma, bosderma, kabab, plov, xengal and kete. No matter how hard I try, mine never measures up!8. The pace of life. In Azerbaijan, I've become accustomed to a more relaxed pace. People savor moments here. They spend time just sitting together. It can be very hard to make that adjustment for people who are always on the go, always thinking about their next step, and always thinking the grass is greener on the other side. In Azerbaijan, there is always time for chay (tea.)9. New volunteers. Really, the best part of being a PCV is getting to see new people arrive, sharing the culture from a seasoned perspective, and offering words of wisdom to the next generation. Although I will be leaving Azerbaijan, I will still gladly answer questions that new volunteers may have about this country and it's people. I always enjoy hearing the reactions to the culture for the first time, it reminds me (and other volunteers) what it was like for us when we first arrived.10. My community. Ganja really was a great place to serve. No, I didn't live in a mud hut. No, I wasn't in Africa. No, I didn't have to walk miles to get buckets of water. Yes, I had electricity. Yes, I had grocery stores (kind of). Yes, I could buy meat from a butcher or the store. Yes, I had a great landlord and a wonderful apartment. Yes, I got to shower regularly (usually every other day when I lived in my own place, and usually 2-3 times a week when living at a host family, as long as the pipes didn't freeze.) Yes, I had a pet... Dexter was my cat. Yes, I loved the people. Yes, I got married to my counterpart, afterall, he was the smartest, sweetest, funniest and nicest person I met in Azerbaijan. Yes, I will miss Azerbaijan.

For new volunteers who arrive at the end of September, I am sorry that I won't get to meet you. My group arrived in the summer of 2007, and I extended for a year. So my service ends on October 7th, 2010. Therefore, since I won't meet you in person, I'd like to offer you some advice on preparing for your service...1. Keep an open mind. Don't come with expectations. It's easier to adjust to living abroad if you don't put too many expectations in your mind. Those who do, for example, expect to have constant internet access, or expect to have a pollution free community, or even expect to live in a big city, you will only create your own disappointment. If you are open to any experience, you can learn to adapt to life in any community.2. Focus on what you want out of your service. Peace Corps does not yet know where you will be placed. They want to meet you, and talk to you about your desires before placing you in a town, city or village. They want to know what you need. Too many volunteers make the mistake of focusing on the external environment, that they forget the important qualities in a working environment. Instead of begging to be in the mountains, or someplace hot, or someplace beautiful, ask for the things that will help you to be successful. If you want a host organization that works 7 days a week, a place that does community outreach, someplace that helps poor people, someplace that has lots of english speakers, somewhere with a library, somewhere with computers, or anything that would make your work plans a reality, then ASK FOR THOSE! If you like to multitask, or if you like to focus on one thing at a time, those are more important in matching you the right community. You should really focus on what you hope to gain from your service, and your plans to work successfully.3. Stop buying stuff. Really, too many volunteers come with too much stuff. Save the money you'll spend on a whole new wardrobe, get yourself a few basic items (think business casual) and then pick up the rest of what you need here. You can get a lot of things here that are culturally appropriate that you can't get in America. Don't focus on getting 10 floor length dark colored skirts. In reality, every community has different styles and you can find something here. 4. Start working with the language materials now. The easiest way to become involved, accepted and integrated into your community is to learn the language. You will be able to start work sooner, express your needs easier, and explain your ideas clearer if you get a head start on this. I know the CD seems like it's impossible. But come at least knowing how to say thank you, hello, "my name is" and a few other basics. Learn numbers. There is no such thing as a "too fluent" rating in language. 5. Take pictures of everything. Take pictures of your home, your car, your work, your community, your friends and relatives. Take pictures of a grocery store, of any interesting parks, of anything in your community that you can share. You can never have too many pictures, and it will help you to break the ice. If you are wondering what gifts to bring, I have yet to find an Azerbaijani family that doesn't like candy. Think bags of candy that you can give away. This will always be appreciated!

You would think that after three years I'd be used to the heat. No. Sadly this Washingtonian will never be totally used to heat. Last week I came back on the night train from Baku, and had to take the "plaskcart" which is like a train wagon with 50 beds in it, three to each wall. The windows don't open, there's not privacy, and you really need to watch your stuff carefully with so many people around you in an open compartment. However, I had no other choice but the plaskcart, because all the train tickets were sold out, and I'm not allowed to travel at night by bus or car (Peace Corps safety rules.) So, it was the hot night train. It was so hot the moment I walked into the car, that I couldn't breath. I was sweating before I even got in, but by the time I had sat there on my bunk for about 2 min I was soaked. By 4am I was so dehydrated that I was nauseous. This is gross, but I vomited twice in the train bathroom from the heat. I had to stand in the corridor by the toilet just to get some air from the cracked window. Strangely, most people here talk about how you can die from the cold. "Don't eat ice-cream, or drink cold water, you'll get sick from the cold." Or my favorite, "Don't sit in front of the fan or the air conditioner, it will make you sick to be cold." But for me, I just can't take the heat... and there’s not kitchen to get out of. I am constantly having to explain that I'm from a "cold place" and that where I'm from we get sick from the heat. It's almost comical how many times a day someone tells me not to do something involving cold in 100+ degree temperatures. Two weeks ago I went to visit in-laws in Naxchivan, which is the landlocked island portion of Azerbaijan. It's detached from the main land, but landlocked in the three other countries (Turkey, Iran and Armenia). The heat in Naxchivan is unbearable for a Pacific Northwester like myself. During the middle of the day, it's so hot that no one goes outside. About mid day you hear the sound of children’s voices stop abruptly as they head inside to retreat from from the heat. Even my mother in law's cats come home to get out of the heat. At night, it's a stale heat, no breeze to even move the heat around. Without a fan, or air conditioner, it's truly impossible to sleep. I'm not really sure how people avoid heat stroke who have to work outside in those kinds of temperatures. It was actually hotter than the month I spent in Arizona in August. So, if you’re from a colder region, or don't like heat, I'd honestly suggest that you come visit Azerbaijan in October when the weather is both beautiful and cool enough to breath.

The Women’s Bar Association of Azerbaijan: A Success Story June 2010 by Barbara StandalThe Women’s Bar Association of Azerbaijan (WBA) was born in 2006 in Baku, a dynamic city of two million people on the Caspian Sea. In May 2008, when I arrived in Azerbaijan as a legal-education and rule-of-law specialist for the American Bar Association Rule of Law Initiative, the WBA had 250 members. They held high hopes, but little experience in running an organization. I gladly accepted the role of adviser. When I asked during an early training session what they hoped to achieve in five years, one Azerbaijani woman lawyer shouted, “The Nobel Peace Prize!” The group clapped and cheered.I have advised, coached, trained, and applauded these savvy and ambitious Azerbaijani lawyers for the past year and a half. As a former board member of both Washington Women Lawyers and Northwest Women Lawyers, I was eager to help create a women’s bar association that would meet international standards. Perhaps nothing illustrates more poignantly the need for the WBA than what I experienced less than a year ago — the story of “Aida.”In late June, a young girl was found wandering the streets of Baku asking strangers for shelter. A sympathetic woman who had heard about the WBA brought her to our office for help. Aida, a shy 16-year-old, was dressed like any Western teenager in a dress hugging her lean body, her thick dark hair coiled in a braid down her back. She arrived with her good Samaritan and had a cellphone clutched in her hand. Aida had come to Baku the day before from Goychay, an agricultural region in central Azerbaijan, 300 miles from Baku. Aida told us her family was forcing her to marry a local man. She did not want to be married but instead wanted to finish school, attend university, and become a doctor. She had run away from home. Saida, the woman who had taken Aida off the street the day before, told us Aida was welcome to live with her and her family. She said Aida could finish school in Baku and then attend the university. It sounded like the answer to this young girl’s dream, and mine.But even as we listened to Aida’s story, her mother and uncle were rushing to Baku to take her back to Goychay. (Aida’s father was away working in Russia — a typical rural situation in the former Soviet Republics.) Aida’s mother and uncle were met by a half-dozen WBA members sympathetic to Aida’s plight. One experienced lawyer informed the mother and uncle that in Azerbaijan the legal age for marriage is 17 and therefore an arranged marriage of a 16-year-old was illegal. We threatened to notify the authorities. A recent study showed that in both the south and the north of Azerbaijan, 3,000 out of 5,000 marriages were illegal, primarily because the women were underage. After the WBA lawyers explained the law and potential penalties, Aida’s mother promised she would not force her daughter into the marriage and said she would allow Aida to finish school. But she insisted on taking her daughter back to their village. Aida’s running away had caused the family great shame and loss of status in the community. With no legal way to prevent them from taking Aida back, I watched helplessly as she left that afternoon, still clutching her cellphone, looking back at us forlornly.Three months later, we visited Aida in her village and learned that her family had taken her directly back to her village, confiscated her cellphone, and put her in a psychiatric clinic. When we next saw Aida, she was married and pregnant. Recently, she gave birth to a son and now lives with her husband and tyrannical mother-in-law. Later, we learned that one of the reasons Aida had fled to Baku was to escape her future mother-in-law. Aida represents thousands of similarly powerless girls throughout rural Azerbaijan.I have heard variations on Aida’s story repeated over and over in the past nine months. As part of an American foundation grant, last fall a dozen WBA members traveled into four remote villages on 12 separate occasions to bring rural women together to discuss domestic violence, human trafficking, gender inequality, and early marriages. In the sessions with the lawyers, rural women who didn’t want to speak openly were encouraged to write anonymously about their personal experiences. A few of those stories follow.One woman in a village near the Iranian border wrote: “When I was a teenager, I witnessed how a young wife was repeatedly and brutally beaten by her husband. Once, he beat his wife so badly he broke her hands. She escaped and ran through the village seeking help. But nobody tried to rescue her. She only heard: ‘You are a young wife, and you have to go through it and endure.’”Another story underscores the poverty and its impact on rural women. “There was a young girl whose mother sold her to a wealthy man from Iran. [She] was taken to Iran and forced into prostitution. However . . . she eventually found a way to escape and return to Lankaran. Here she faced the community’s reproach and was denied any rescue or medical care. . . . She appealed to people, saying that it was not her choice. But no one listened to her or helped her.”Unmarried, divorced, or widowed women are often stigmatized or exploited. As an anonymous woman wrote: “I was married for eight years. After my husband passed away, his relatives treated me in a very bad way: humiliation, reproaches, insults. My father-in-law offered me to be his lover. In exchange, he promised better treatment and [a] future for me and my children. However, I refused his offers, took my children with me, and went back to my father’s house.”[1]Many rural women who told their stories said that for the first time they had the chance to talk about these problems outside their families and no longer felt so alone. They discussed their experiences, including forced marriages of village girls, some as young as 12, and begged for more education on these social issues for themselves as well as their husbands, sons, and daughters. They also asked for shelters for domestic-violence victims and for community-leadership training.Domestic violence in Azerbaijan is driven by both poverty and the culture. The violence is not solely man-to-woman. According to one recent study, 49 percent of Azerbaijani women believe some form of domestic violence is justified. Mothers-in-law are often the scourge of a young married woman’s life in Azerbaijan, although there are many notable exceptions. Traditionally, when a young woman marries, she is taken to live with her husband’s family for both cultural and economic reasons. In many cases, the young wife is treated like the family slave and beaten not only by her husband but also her mother-in-law.Azerbaijanis have preserved their cultural roots, particularly in the regions outside Baku. Men are the sole authority in the family. One rural woman said, “If my husband says yogurt is black, yogurt is black.” Another wrote, “If he says die, you die. If he says live, you live.” Early marriages and domestic violence are major social problems in Azerbaijan. Corrupt officials offer no protection.Azerbaijan is an oil-rich, Shiite Muslim country of eight million people. Historically, it has been heavily influenced by its powerful neighbors: Iran, Turkey, and Russia. Azerbaijan is a culturally diverse country with at least 53 distinct ethnic groups. The majority of Azerbaijanis, however, are Turkic people who share a language with their Uzbek, Kyrgyz, Kazak, Turkish, and Uigur cousins. Adding to its ethnic complexity is its history of domination by Persia, the Ottomans, and later the Soviet Union. In fact, 25 to 30 million Azerbaijanis live in Iran, three to four times as many as live in Azerbaijan. Mir-Hossein Mousavi Khameneh, the unsuccessful Iranian presidential candidate in 2009, is Iranian Azerbaijani.The WBA promises to be a powerful force for social and cultural change in the Caucasus, Central Asia, and the Middle East. I have seen these strong, intelligent women use their skills and commitment for the greater purposes of the organization, their own professional development, and the rights of women and girls of Azerbaijan. In the past year, they have adopted bylaws, elected a board of directors, and developed committees to run the organization. They have written proposals for EU and U.S. grants that have won them over $350,000 to educate rural women on their legal rights and to monitor human trafficking.The WBA is the only women’s bar association in Central Asia and the Caucasus. Its members are a credit to their country and to the investment of the United States Agency for International Development and the American Bar Association Rule of Law Initiative. I have no doubt they could one day be nominated for the Nobel Prize, as suggested by the attendee at that early training session. My work with these women and Narmin Kerimbekova, the ABA ROLI Azeribaijani staff attorney who provided me invaluable support, has enriched my life. Ed. note: the author writes: I began my career as a clerk at the Washington State Court of Appeals, Division III. I was in private practice in Seattle for six years before becoming a supervisory trial attorney with the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission until I retired in 2001. Failing miserably at retirement and feeding my addiction to travel, I worked in Kyrgyzstan from 2004 to 2006 for the American Bar Association Rule of Law Initiative (ABA ROLI) as a legal education specialist. In May 2008, I returned to ABA ROLI to work in Azerbaijan, where I will remain until September 2010. I confess a fascination with the former Soviet Republics, particularly the Muslim countries. I live in a small apartment in the center of Baku, a city in transition from the 19th to the 21st century. From my apartment windows I look across the street at the beautiful and historic Old City and the 16th-century walls lit spectacularly at night. The ABA office is also located in the center of Baku, and I walk to work just as I did from the Queen Anne neighborhood in Seattle. There are three Americans in our office, including me. Our staff of five Azerbaijani lawyers, four women and one man, with whom I work closely, all speak fluent English in addition to Azerbaijani, Russian, and, in the case of one or two, Turkish or French. I welcome any comments or questions and I can be reached atbjstandal@yahoo.com.NOTE

1. These stories are included in the quarterly reports to the American One Woman Initiative Foundation that funded this Women’s Bar Association of Azerbaijan project. They were translated from Azerbaijani to English by a member of the Women’s Bar Association staff, Sayara Alieva.

http://www.wsba.org/media/publications/barnews/jun10-womensbarazerbaijan.htm

AIDS in Azerbaijan. Not really the topic that most Youth Development Volunteers really consider tackling. However, this is my third year as a coordinator for the International AIDS Candlelight Memorial, an international grassroots community mobilization campaign. This year about 1,200 community organizations in over 109 countries will host local community Candlelight Memorials. Ganja will be be celebrating it's third memorial. Although it is new to the community, it is no less significant.

I will have the daunting task of teaching Azerbaijani youth about HIV/AIDS in a culture that doesn't talk openly about any sexually transmitted diseases. This years event will also take on the topic of discrimination. Students will receive basic information about HIV/AIDS (what is it, how do you get it, and how to protect yourself from contracting it) before lighting candles to honor Azerbaijani citizens currently living with, and those lost to AIDS.

It can be very difficult to find current statistics about HIV/AIDS in Azerbaijan. Largely this is due to the fact that very few Azerbaijanis have been tested. Most people will not be tested, and even if they know their behaviors have put them at risk, testing can be a frightening concept. There is a lot of stigma about having this disease in such a conservative culture. Although Azerbaijan is much more open than other cultures in this region of the world, the people predominately frown upon the behaviors that can lead to contracting HIV. There are not many statistics available, and those that are have been difficult to locate in English for any years past 2007.

Therefore, I will provide some statistics for HIV/AIDS in Azerbaijan for 2009:

The Ministry of Health informs that in the first quarter of 2009, Azerbaijan registered 129 new HIV infections (for 2008 total was 436 new infections). Of these 129 new infections, 96.9% are Azerbaijani citizens, 90.4% are men, 12 persons died from AIDS, and 33 HIV infections progressed into the AIDS stage. 64.8% of new infections are contracted through use of infected syringes, 16.8% through heterosexual contact. In the first quarter, one child was infected from his/her mother. 73.6% of new infections were registered to live in the capital city Baku (22.4% of those live in the Absheron peninsula surrounding Baku) while 25.6% are from the regions outside of Baku. TOTAL HISTORICAL STATISTICS Since 1987 Azerbaijan has registered 1,944 persons infected with AIDS (1,869 are Azerbaijani citizens) 251 deaths have been reported from AIDS (as of first quarter 2009). 1193 people (63.8%) of a total of 1869 HIV infected persons were infected after use of infected syringes. 432 people (22.6%) were infected through heterosexual contact and 14 people (.7%) were infected through homosexual contact. 17 (.9%) infants have been infected from their mothers. 1 person has been infected from donated blood. Demographics for Azerbaijanis infected with HIV/AIDS Under age 14: 17 persons (.9%) Age 15-18: 5 (.3%) Age 19-24: 153 (8.2%) Age 25-29: 379 (20.3%) Age 30-39: 847 (45.3%) Age 40-49: 347 (18.6%) 50-59: 38 (2%) Over 60: 7 (.4%) Unreported age: 76 (4.1%)Men: 1230* Women: 215 * *Statistic provided by Dr.Dilshad of the Baku AIDS clinic, for all years through 2007, and added new infections for 2009. This statistic is missing persons from the 2008 year. Number of people who have gone to get treatment: 227 (30 of these began treatment in 2009) According to UNaids.org as of 2009 Azerbaijan is estimated to have between 4,600 and 16,000 persons living with HIV/AIDS. The discrepancy in numbers is due to a lack of testing.http://www.candlelightmemorial.org/about_us/http://abc.az/eng/news_20_04_2009_34037.htmlhttp://www.unaids.org/en/CountryResponses/Countries/azerbaijan.asp

Finally, for any of my Azerbaijani readers online who wish to learn more about HIV/AIDS, I have had basic information translated for you. Please pass this information along to your fellow citizens. Knowledge is the first step toward keeping Azerbaijan from losing more citizens to this disease.What is HIV? n HIV is short for Human Immunodeficiency Virus. HIV is a virus that effects the bodies immune system. The virus over time will weaken your bodies ability to fight other illnesses. HIV is the first stage of having AIDS. n HİV qısa İnsanın immunçatışmazlığı virusu deməkdir.HİV orqanizmin immun sisteminə zərər yetirən virusdur. Bu virus illər keçdikcə insan orqanizmini zəiflədir və başqa xəstəliklərə qarşı mübarizə bacarığını azaldır. HİV, QİÇS-i qazanmağın ilkin mərhələsidir. n HIV infects the T Helper cell. Once inside a T helper cell, HIV takes over the cell and replicates. In this process the infected cell often dies. The new virus seeks out new T-Helper Cells to infect. n HİV köməkçi T-hüceyrələrini yoluxdurur. Onlar T-köməkçi hüceyrənin daxilində olarkən, onu özününküləşdirir və çoxaldır. Çox vaxt bu prosesdə yoluxmuş hüceyrələr ölür. Yoluxmuş hüceyrə öldükdən sonra virus yoluxdurmaq üçün yeni köməkçi T-hüceyrə axtarır. What is AIDS? n When the HIV virus has lowered your bodies immune system to a specific weak state, the virus is then called AIDS (Acquired Immunodeficiency Syndrome) n HİV virusu insan orqanizmini müəyyən dərəcəyə qədər zəiflətdikdə, bu virus sonradan QİÇS (Qazanılmış İmmunçatışmazlığı Sindromu)adlandırılır. n When people have AIDS, the symptoms are usually those of other illnesses that effect them during their weakened state. So often, the symptoms can be similar to the flu. n İnsanlar QİÇS-ə yoluxanda onlar başqa xəstəliklər zamanı keçirdikləri hallarla (simptomlarla) qarşılaşırlar. Daha çox qrip xəstəliyinə bənzəyir. Who is at risk to get HIV/AIDS? n ALL people, of EVERY race, gender, age, and culture can get HIV / AIDS. n Bütün insanlar, milli mənsubiyyətindən, cinsindən, yaşından və mədəniyyətindən asılı olmayaraq HİV/QİÇS-ə yoluxa bilərlər. How do I know if someone has HIV / AIDS? Mən necə bilim ki, kim HİV/QİÇS-ə artıq yoluxub ?! n You can not tell someone has HIV or AIDS just by looking at them. The only way to know for sure if someone has HIV or AIDS is through a blood test. This means that you can have HIV or AIDS and not know that you have it. n Kiminsə sadəcə zahiri görünüşünə baxmaqla demək olmaz ki, bu insan yoluxub ya yox. Bu faktın yeganə aşkarlanma yolu qan testinin verilməsidir. Bu o deməkdir ki, Sən HİV QİÇS-in daşıyıcısı ola bilərsən amma bundan xəbərin olmaz. How do you get HIV/AIDS? n HIV is not like a cold or flu virus. The virus is transferred through blood and body fluids of an infected person, to a non infected person. The most common ways of getting HIV or AIDS is through sexual contact, use of needles, and from mother to child during birth. n HİV sadə soyuqluq və yaxud qrip virusuna bənzəmir. Bu virus xəstə insanın qan və yaxud bədən mayeləri vasitəsi ilə sağlam insana keçə bilər. HİV QİÇS-in daha geniş yayılmış yolları: iynələrdən istifadə, seksual kontakt və doğuş zamanı anadan uşağa keçməsi. Can I catch HIV / AIDS ? Mən HİV/QİÇS-ə yoluxa bilərəm? n You can not get HIV / AIDS through “casual contact.” This means that shaking hands, giving hugs, sharing food and drinks, from mosquito or bug bites, or just touching someone with HIV / AIDS will not give you the virus. It is safe to be friends with people who have HIV or AIDS. The virus will not pass to you unless you exchange blood or bodily fluids. n HİV/QİÇS-ə təsadüfi görüşməklə yoluxmaq olmaz. Yani əl ilə salamlaşma zamanı, qucaqlaşma, yemək və içki ilə paylaşma zamanı, milçək və ya ağcaqanadların dişləməsi,və ya HİV/QİÇS virusunun daşıyıcısı olan bir çəxsə əl vurmaqla yoluxmaq olmaz. Is there a cure to protect myself? Özümü qorumaq üçün bir dərman mövcuddurmu? n Scientists have not yet discovered a cure for HIV / AIDS. There are medicines for people who currently have HIV / AIDS to help them to stay healthy and live longer. n Alimlər hələ HİV/QİÇS-ə qarşı dərman tapmayıblar. Hal-hazırda HİV/QİÇS xəstələri üçün dərmanlar var ki, onların sağlam qalmasına və bir az artıq yaşamasına kömək edirlər. What are some ways I can protect myself from getting HIV/AIDS? n Do not share needles. Do not touch needles you find. Make sure when you get a shot at the doctor that the needle is new. Do not use drugs, as this is the number one way HIV / AIDS is spread in Azerbaijan. n İynələrinizlə paylaşmayın. Tapdığınız iynələrə əl vurmayın. Həkim qəbulunda olarkən əmin olun ki, istifadə olunan iynə təzədir. Narkotik vasitələrdən istifadə etməyin, çünki, elə bu vasitə ilə Azərbaycanda bu xəstəlik daha da geniş yayılmışdır. n Do not touch blood for any reason. If someone is bleeding, use protective rubber gloves if you must give help to the person. n Qan gördükdə qətiyyən toxunma. Əgər bir kimsə qanaxmaya düşübsə, və sən yardım etməlisənsə, qoruyucu rezin əlcəkdən istifadə et. n Abstinence is the only 100% protection from HIV / AIDS. However, if you do participate in sexual activities (oral, anal, or vaginal sex) with either a man or a woman, you need to use a condom EVERY time. Being faithful to your partner will also decrease your risk for getting HIV or AIDS. n Özünüzü qoruma yeganə 100%-lıq müdafiədir HİV/QİÇS-dən. Lakin, əyər siz seksual fəaliyyətlə məşğulsunuzsa (oral,anal, və ya vaqinal seks) kişi və ya qadınla, siz HƏR DƏFƏ prezervativdən istifadə etməlisiniz. Eyni zamanda, partnyoruza qarşı sədaqətli olmağınız sizin HİV və ya QİÇS-ə yoluxma təhlükənizi azaldır. n Do not engage in sexual activities with prostitutes. If you do, even one time, you are at risk of having HIV or AIDS. n Fahişələrlə cinsi əlaqədə girməyin. Əyər bu hal, bir dəfə də olsa baş verərsə, siz artıq HİV/QİÇS-ə yoluxma təhlükəsinə düçar olursunuzHow can I protect my family? Mən öz ailəmi necə qoruya bilərəm? n If you are pregnant, or plan to become pregnant, you should get tested for HIV / AIDS. If it is found that you have HIV or AIDS, doctors can start medication to protect the child from being passed the virus. n Əgər siz hamiləsinizsə, və yaxud hamilə qalmağı planlaşdırırsınızsa, siz HİV/QİÇS-ə qarşı müayinədən keçməlisiniz. Əgər müəyyən olunsa ki, sizdə bu virus var, həkimlər virusun uşağa keçməsinə qarşı tədbirlər görə bilərlər. n Do not engage in sexual activities with prostitutes, or have multiple partners. Being faithful to your spouse is important for protecting their health. If you do, even one time, you are at risk of giving HIV or AIDS to your spouse. n Fahişə ilə əlaqədən çəkinin və yaxud çox partnyorla əlaqəyə girməyin. Ər və ya xanımınıza qarşı sədaqətli olmaq ailənizin sağlamlığının qorunması üçün çox vacibdir. Əgər bir dəfə də olsa siz bunu etsəniz, siz HİV və yaxud QİÇS-ə yoluxma təhlükəsi altına düşürsünüz. Summary How to get HIV/AIDS n Through sexual contact, either oral, anal, or vaginal, with either a man or a woman. n Through use of non-sterile needles or medical equipment. n From mother to child at birth n Direct blood to blood exchange HİV/QİCS-ə necə yoluxmaq olar: n Kişi və ya qadınla seksual əlaqədə olmaqla (oral,anal və ya vaginal yolla); n Sterilizə olunmamış tibbi ləvazimatdan və ya iynələrdən istifadə etməklə; n Doğuş zamanı anadan uşağa; n Qan dəyişməklə How to protect yourself and your family n Practice Abstinence n Be Faithful n Use a condom every time n Use only new needles and sterile medical equipment n GET TESTED Özünüzü və ailənizi necə qorumalı n Özünüzü qoruyun; n Sədaqətli olun; n Hər dəfə prezervativdən istifadə edin; n Təzə iynələrdən və sterilizə olunmuş tibbi ləvazimatdan istifadə edin n Müayinədən keçin GET TESTED /MÜAYİNƏDƏN KEÇİNn Müayinədən keçmək pulsuzdur/ Testing is Free n Tam məxfidir/ Testing is confidential n Yaşadığınız yerdə mümkündür/ Testing is local n 022 56 12 43 Gəncə nümayəndəliyinin əlaqə nömrəsidir

This week has been both busy and stressful for me. With the start of spring I am trying to keep the finish line in sight. In a little less than 6 months my service will come to a close. Last year as my group (AZ 5) felt the pull of Close of Service, I didn’t understand the pressure, excitement and anxiety that were slowly sweeping over them. This year, I finally understand.

I recently received a Small Project Assistance Program (SPA) grant to help purchase resources for an English Language Multimedia Listening Library. Ideally, the goals of the project are to improve students’ listening comprehension skills by providing them with English language DVDs and CDs in a variety of topics which are both educational and entertaining, in order to make them more competitive for study abroad and international work opportunities. With the grant, I’ve managed to procure over 200 used DVDs and CDs thus far for the new multimedia section of our library. This involves a lot of coordination, budgeting, and training of Azerbaijani counter-parts in cataloguing and management of library resources.

In addition to the grant, my host organization has once again passed their grant application for a US Democracy Commission grant. We will be hosting the 3rd annual Youth Civic Leadership Academy at our center this year, which will take a total of 60 students for 7 weeks of leadership, human rights, critical thinking, conflict management and a variety of other courses. At the end of 21 weeks, we will take 20 students to our annual summer Leadership Camp. I’ve been working very hard on transferring the skills and knowledge of how to plan a camp and the academy to my new counterpart. As this is the third year I’ve conducted this academy, I need to ensure that next year it can continue without me being physically present.

This week was also the announcement of FLEX study abroad program participant selection. Ganja was fortunate to have 5 students chosen this year. Four girls and one boy, of which 4 students I have personally worked with in helping to prepare for this program via conversation clubs, FLEX preparation classes, book clubs, interview work shops and various other programs to build up the skills necessary for a study abroad participant. I’m so excited for them, but also nervous at the same time. As in Azerbaijan, it can be very hard for young women to get parental permission to go abroad. Even after they pass the entire rigorous application process, many times parents refuse to allow their children to go. I am just hoping that this year all of the parents will allow their children to achieve their full potential.

Finally, next week on Tuesday morning, Farid and I will have our interview for his spouse visa at the US Embassy in Tbilisi, Georgia. This is the last step in the visa process. For those of you who don’t know how hard it is to immigrate to the US, I hope that you will find this enlightening. Our process of application started last August. In order to get just a wedding certificate, we had to collect papers from the US that required an Apostille (like an international notary which makes a legal document of one country recognized in another country as also being legal.) Our wedding date required a one month advance notice, and we had to have current visas, passports, and registration ID cards. After the wedding, then we could take our marriage certificate, and apply with the US embassy for an immigrant visa. This process involved a stack of government forms, lots of translated and notarized documents, and another trip to the capitol. After the initial application, I was reviewed for a criminal background check (yes, me) then we were invited to an interview. However, the interview date had to be pushed back in order to obtain all the legal documents necessary for the interview. We had to acquire a police certificate from every place Farid has ever lived which stated he has no record of any kind; he had to pass a full physical done by an embassy approved physician (which was only located in the capitol city), and had to of course have all his documents translated and notarized in English. In addition to this, we had yet another stack of government forms to fill out to prove that I’m a legal resident of the US, and that I meet the income requirements for applying to sponsor my husband as an immigrant. As a Peace Corps volunteer, we don’t receive a salary, but rather a monthly stipend for housing, food, transportation and other minimal costs. Let’s just say I used to make more in one month than I do in a whole year as a PCV. So no, I do not meet the income requirements. Which means I had to have my parents verify that my home of record is with them, and have them apply their income toward mine in order to supplement mine in sponsoring Farid. With all this complete, we still now have to travel outside of Azerbaijan (as the closest IMMIGRANT visa office is in Georgia) in order to conduct an interview. We’ve been told that the interview could be anywhere from a few minutes to a couple hours depending on your paperwork and their feelings about Farid and my relationship. Needless to say, this process can take a lot out of one. I sometimes feel like a nervous wreck trying to jump through all the hoops necessary just to stay with my husband. There is one thing I can say for sure, the process is so complicated that a couple must really love each other and want to be together to endure and survive something like this. I’m very thankful that Farid has been so patient and supportive while I’ve been going crazy… It’s nice to have someone to balance me out. We will have a final answer by Tuesday as to what comes next. It could be one of three answers. “YES, come back and get your visa tomorrow.” “No, you have been denied.” Or finally… “You need to come back again with _____.” (Fill in whatever documentation or items that they ask for.) So for those of you who know me, I’m in anxiety mode right now, just checking over everything a hundred times, trying to get my marriage certificate translated with my name spelled correctly for the umpteenth time (the most common mistakes are Vatkins, or reversing the A and E in my first name.) We now have less than 89 hours till his interview. So if you’re reading this any time before then, just pray for us, think good thoughts, send good vibrations, or good wishes to us. I’ll let you all know as soon as I have any news (good or bad) regarding his visa.

I know, I know, I know… I really am horrible at updating a blog. Honestly, sometimes I don’t even know how to describe my experiences here. During our pre-service training, one of our staff members described the Peace Corps experience like a roller coaster. Some days are a struggle to get up, but when you’re at the top, nothing can be more exciting. Other days, it’s a frightening fall down hill, and you feel like you’re going to crash when you hit the bottom. Right now, it’s a bit of both for me. I feel like I’m in the final climb uphill, but at the same time falling towards the last crash. I’m going to make a birthday resolution this year. I’m hoping to start updating my blog once a week now that the end of my service is slowly creeping nearer. So I do hope that you will stick with me a bit longer.

Again, I have neglected my duty of keeping people up to date with my adventures in the land of fire. So, I will do my best not to make this the worlds longest blog entry, but alas, I have much ground to cover. So where to begin?

I am currently home in America for the very first time in 2 years, 3 months and 5 days. I am spending 30 days visiting with family, friends, and taking care of business that needed to be done. Needless to say, now that my body is down to a size 11 from a size 18, I needed all new clothes. I must say, walmart looks pretty good when your options are few and far between at the local bazaar in Ganja. I've managed to eat terriyaki, Thai, pho, Mexican, Italian, and traditional good ol' unhealthy American food since I've been home. And it all tastes even better than I've been imagining. I've driven a car for the first time in almost two and a half years. I washed laundry in a washer, and then dried it in a dryer. I've had countless hot showers that don't require me to heat the water before hand. When I got cold, I turned on the heat. I've even enjoyed helping out around the house. Vacuuming seems so much more fun when you haven't been able to do it for so long. Seeing so many people has been a great joy. But sadly, it is true what they say. You can never go home again.

Since I have extended my service, I had worried that coming home for a month would make me not look forward to coming back to Azerbaijan. Many volunteers say that it's hard to find motivation once you go home and then come back. I, on the other hand, have found it more of an inspiration than anything else ever could have been. This chance to come home has been good, but it has made me appreciate the things that I do miss about Azerbaijan.

First and foremost, I miss my Azerbaijani husband. He is kind, honest, sweet, hard working, has a great sense of humor, and always knows how to make the bad days into good ones. On September 21st, we were married at the ZAGS office in Baku, Azerbaijan. That day is by far, the happiest and most incredible day of my life. It was the highlight of my Peace Corps experience, and I feel honored to have found my soul mate on the other side of the world while trying to find myself. We will be doing a larger wedding ceremony at the end of November, but this one was even more wonderful than I could have ever imagined. With the dates for my extension of service leave already set, and the ministry setting our wedding date, my hands were tied. I had to leave only 2 weeks after our wedding. Not really how we had imagined our first month of marriage to be... apart. However, having higher speed Internet connection does have a bit of an advantage, but nothing can substitute for being by his side.

Second, I miss the pace of life in Azerbaijan. I miss making my own schedule. I miss not having to worry about time. In Azerbaijan, I am truly blessed to have such a wonderful community. My host organization is run by the most amazing and wonderful boss I've ever had in my entire life. He is kind, patient, open to new ideas, optimistic, and always works to keep his volunteers and staff happy. So I am fortunate enough to be able to make my own schedule. I don't have a set time to come into the office. I come in whatever time I finish my housework or morning errands, and then I stay until my planning, classes, clubs or activities are complete for the day. Then I go home. And every day is a joy. I actually look forward to going to work. How many people can say that about their job? I miss that life in Azerbaijan is at a more leisurely pace. I miss that schedules are lose, and that people just go with the flow. It's harder to come back to America when everything runs by the clock all the time. It can be inescapably stifling at times.

Third, I miss the people. I miss their open minded, positive attitudes. I miss the optimistic youth who are constantly striving to make a better world for themselves and their families. I miss how the people sincerely care about your answer when they ask "how are you?" The culture can be so much more intimate. Which at first, can be frightening, and feel intrusive. But in reality, I have more best friends in Azerbaijan than I do now in America. My friends, host family, and students all genuinely are a big part of my life. They are what carries me through the rough days. They are my Azerbaijani family. And I miss them.

Finally, I miss my job. It gives me a sense of purpose in this world like nothing I could ever describe. I love being a Peace Corps Volunteer. The lack of money and material possessions are nothing when compared to the rewards I receive in return. This summer, I saw the graduation of more than 60 students from three consecutive 8 week programs for my annual Youth Civic Leadership Academy. Then, I took not just one group, but two groups of students to a summer Leadership Camp. I got to know them, what they dream of, what their passions are, and what gives them so much strength and determination. It was the highlight of my year. I worked along side of three of the most amazing Azerbaijanis I've ever met. One of which I married the following week, and the other two were standing right by our side as if they were blood related family. My job is closely tied to my heart. I cannot separate it because it is what gives me so much joy. Being a Peace Corps Volunteer may be difficult at times, but there are a million moments of joy for each moment of frustration.

It is true, you can never go home again... my physical home is no longer where my heart lies. Azerbaijan has captured it deeply, and I am looking forward to returning. I don't know what my third year in the Peace Corps will bring, but if the first two years are any indication, the adventure is far from over.

Re-Print from The New York Times article from http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/11/opinion/11havel.html?_r=1

By VACLAV HAVEL (president of the Czech Republic from 1993 to 2003, and leading figure in Human Rights)

Published: May 10, 2009

IMAGINE an election where the results are largely preordained and a number of candidates are widely recognized as unqualified. Any supposedly democratic ballot conducted in this way would be considered a farce. Yet tomorrow the United Nations General Assembly will engage in just such an “election” when it votes to fill the vacancies on the 47-member Human Rights Council.

Only 20 countries are running for 18 open seats. The seats are divided among the world’s five geographic regions and three of the five regions have presented the same number of candidates as there are seats, thus ensuring there is no opportunity to choose the best proponents of human rights each region has to offer.

Governments seem to have forgotten the commitment made only three short years ago to create an organization able to protect victims and confront human rights abuses wherever they occur.

An essential precondition was better membership. The council’s precursor, the United Nations Commission on Human Rights, was folded in 2006 mainly because it had, for too long, allowed gross violators of human rights like Sudan and Zimbabwe to block action on their own abuses.

The council was supposed to be different. For the first time, countries agreed to take human rights records into account when voting for the council’s members, and those member-states that failed to, in the words of the founding resolution, “uphold the highest standards in the promotion and protection of human rights” would find themselves up for review and their seats endangered. For victims of human rights abuses and advocates for human rights worldwide, the reforms offered the hope of a credible and effective body.

Now, it seems, principle has given way to expediency. Governments have resumed trading votes for membership in various other United Nations bodies, putting political considerations ahead of human rights. The absence of competition suggests that states that care about human rights simply don’t care enough. Latin America, a region of flourishing democracies, has allowed Cuba to bid to renew its membership. Asian countries have unconditionally endorsed the five candidates running for their region’s five seats — among them, China and Saudi Arabia.

In past years, Western countries encouraged rights-respecting states from other regions to compete for election. This year, they have ceded the high ground by presenting a non-competitive slate for the council elections. New Zealand withdrew when the United States declared its candidacy, leaving just three countries — Belgium, Norway and the United States — running for three seats.

Even where competition is guaranteed, it is minimal. In the Eastern Europe region — which under the United Nations’ rules includes all countries behind the former Iron Curtain, including my own, the Czech Republic — the countries running for re-election are Azerbaijan and Russia, whose human rights records oscillate from questionable to despicable. Only Hungary has stepped forward to compete for the region’s two seats. The reluctance of Eastern European states to reclaim leadership from human rights abusers does not inspire confidence.

Like the citizens of Azerbaijan, China, Cuba, Russia and Saudi Arabia, I know what it is like to live in a country where the state controls public discourse, suppresses opposition and severely curtails freedom of expression. It is thus doubly dismaying for me to see the willingness of democracies in Latin America and Asia to sit by and watch the council further lose its credibility and respect.

Activists and journalists in Azerbaijan and Cuba have already appealed to the international community not to elect their nations to the Human Rights Council. States committed to human rights and the integrity of the council cannot remain indifferent. Countries must express solidarity with the victims of human rights abuses and reclaim the council by simply refusing to vote for human rights abusers in this shamefully uncontested election.

(Personal comments to follow in coming blog)

My dear readers, as I’m sure you are aware, the work I have been doing here for the past 22 months has been both beneficial to the people I’m working with, as well as a life altering event for me. I have had many ups and downs, but every moment is one that has taught me something about either Azerbaijan or myself. Through my time in the Peace Corps, I have been able to experience some of the most remarkable events of my life. I am fortunate enough to have accomplished some of the major goals I had set out for myself prior to my departure. My time in the Peace Corps has allowed me to tailor the experience to the needs of my community, and my own interests. It is not often that one can wake up looking forward to her job each day. Simply put, I love being a Peace Corps volunteer; so much so, in fact that I am not quite ready to leave yet.

I have finally found my niche here, and have started a few projects that deserve some more time to make them just right. I won’t be able to do them justice if I don’t stay longer here in Azerbaijan. My level of language has finally reached the point where I can communicate about most subjects on at least a basic level. I’ve developed several friendships and important relationships that deserve more time and care to foster, and I am hoping that my time here will help those to continue growing. It is with great pleasure that I announce to you that I have been approved for a third year as a Peace Corps volunteer. This is truly an honor and a privilege for me. I know that this will be hard for my family and friends, but Peace Corps has given me the opportunity to fulfill my personal and career goals through an extension of my service. Please trust that this is something I need to do for myself at this point in time.

I will stay in ganja, and I will stay with the Ganja Education Information Center. Nothing changes other than the date of my return. I will be staying for an additional year… which will bring me back to the US in October of 2010. For those of you that may be sad that I won’t be back for good this Fall, please take heart in the fact that I will have a one month vacation time to come home for a visit sometime between September and November. You will be able to see me this year, but I won’t be back permanently till the next. It is a fair compromise, and I hope that I will have your understanding and support as I embark on my third year in country.

Over the next year, I have decided to start drafting my first attempt at a non-fiction novel about life in Azerbaijan as a Peace Corps volunteer. I am also hoping to see more of the country, as I have been heavily devoted to staying in my rayon and its surrounding areas. I believe that it is both my duty and obligation to have a thorough knowledge of life outside of my city… what kind of volunteer would I be if I left Azerbaijan without seeing half the country? These personal goals are something that only more time will help me to accomplish. Please look forward to more frequent updates, more personal stories, and more cultural information over the coming year. I hope that as my loyal readers, you will enjoy what lies ahead. So, as the great Dumbledore said… and now we shall pursue that flighty temptress, adventure!

This month marked the beginning of the spring project season. Although it is still cold, and the rain is still to come, March has been a good month here in the 'baijan. I've recently began the 2nd Annual Youth Civic Leadership Academy. Some of you are aware that I created and hosted this project in Ganja last year. This year however, there have been several changes to the project.

First and foremost, the project has more students and is over a longer period of time. Each group of students is interviewed and selected for both their english language ability, and their diversity. We choose students who represent a variety of different universities and schools, majors, professions and backgrounds. Not all of the students are originally from Ganja, and those who are represent different communities within Ganja. We have selected 21 participants between the ages of 15 and 25 for the first group. This group is currently in week 5 of an 8 week program. They meet daily Monday through Friday for two hours a day, and two lessons a day. The lessons this year include classes on leadership, diversity, history of democracy in the western world, history of democracy in a Muslim society, volunteerism and civic engagement, public speaking and debate, US government and human rights. I'm currently teaching leadership, diversity, speech and debate, and human rights for the project. Two other volunteers are helping to assist with the project and teaching their own classes.

The first group of the project will end toward the end of April, but the second group will start its 8 weeks immediately after. The third group will begin in June. Finally, our project will not only conclude with a summer leadership camp, but it will host two camps this year in order to include more students. We are hoping to take students back to the mountains to a team building retreat where they can build on communication, leadership, teamwork and self confidence. The camp is often a once in a life time opportunity for students to get to know each other personally without the interference of school, family or other social obligations. It is truly the experience of a life time.

I'm excited for this project to begin as it gives me great pleasure to work with new students. It's always interesting to see just how similar, as well as how different we really are.

Standard & Poor's Banking Industry Country Risk Assessment places Azerbaijan in Group 9

February 24, 2009

Russia & CIS Business and Financial Newswire

Standard & Poor's Ratings Services has categorized the banking industry of the Republic of Azerbaijan in Group 9, following its Banking Industry Country Risk Assessment (BICRA), the ratings agency said in a statement.

The agency's BICRA rankings reflect the strengths and weaknesses of a country's banking system, compared with those of other countries, on a scale ranging from Group 1 (the strongest) to Group 10 (the weakest).

Other countries in Group 9 include Belarus, Nigeria, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Lebanon, and Vietnam. Azerbaijan ranks ahead of Ukraine (Group 10), but behind Russia and Kazakhstan (Group 8).

The placement of Azerbaijan in Group 9 reflects the high industry and economic risks facing the young and fragmented banking system, which is vulnerable to potential credit quality and liquidity deterioration after several years of very rapid growth, the statement says. The system is characterized by high dollarization, the economy's oil dependence, banks' single-name and industry concentrations, and weak risk-management practices. These vulnerabilities are partly mitigated by decent medium- term prospects for macroeconomic growth, banks' limited dependence on international borrowings, and their adequate capitalization and financial performance. For these reasons, the Azerbaijani banking system has so far been less affected by the global economic turbulence, compared with many other countries in the Commonwealth of Independent States, it says.

The banking sector is dominated by a state-owned bank, International Bank of Azerbaijan, which has a market share of 40%, followed by very dynamic private-sector banks--about 45 of them at year- end 2008--with the market share of the largest at less then 8%.

Economic growth is expected to decelerate to a still decent 4.0% in 2009 against 8.5% in 2008, following a sharp decrease in oil prices.

Azerbaijan's economy is highly dependent on oil, which contributed 60% of GDP in 2008.

The rapid lending growth of the past few years is now slowing, owing to sluggish macroeconomic growth and reduced access to international funding. Total system loans increased by only 6% in the fourth quarter of 2008 compared with more than 40% in the first nine months of the year and more than 80% in 2007. As of Dec. 31, 2008, 49% of total system loans were denominated in foreign currencies, highlighting local banks' asset-quality vulnerability to an unlikely, but still not impossible, devaluation of the local currency.

S&P expects deteriorating credit conditions and a slowdown in growth to lead to a significant rise in banks' credit costs and problem loans, at least over the next two to three years. Although loans overdue by more than 30 days were at 2.2% of total loans on Dec. 31, 2008, this ratio does not reflect potential problem loans because portfolios are unseasoned. The expected deterioration was only partly offset by the sector's adequate capitalization (an average capital ratio of 17%) and satisfactory profitability, reflected in a return on assets of 2.2% at year-end 2008. However, banks' provisioning, which covered 6.2% of total loans at year-end 2008, provide an adequate cushion to absorb potential credit losses.

The agency's key analytical measure, which reflects the contingent liability of a banking system relative to sovereign risk, is an estimate of the incidence of gross problematic assets (GPAs) in a reasonable worst-case scenario of economic recession, expressed as a percentage of domestic credit to the private sector and nonfinancial public enterprises. S&P has estimated the GPAs for Azerbaijan's financial system to be in the 35%-50% range (on par with Belarus, Russia, and Kazakhstan).

Although customer deposits have continued to increase rapidly, rising 37% in 2008 after 55% in 2007, the banking system's ratio of loans to deposits reached a fairly high 162% on Dec. 31, 2008, reflecting the strong growth in lending in recent years. At the same time, foreign funding represented 23% of the system's liabilities, largely comprising more sustainable financing from multilateral institutions.

Under the agency's criteria, it considers Azerbaijan to be "supportive" of its banking system. In line with this approach, S&P gives no rating uplift to private-sector banks for potential government support. During times of financial stress, the authorities are likely to increase supervision and regulation of troubled entities, but, in the agency's opinion, would provide only limited extraordinary financial support to privately owned banks.

Hey everyone, long time no update... I know, I know, I'm horrible with this. But better late tan never right? Just a quick one today because this one is important. There is now a bill going through Congress to expand the Peace Corps. If you have facebook and would like to read more, please visit: http://www.facebook.com/topic.php?uid=2208730415&topic=6300

If you don't have facebook, go to http://thomas.loc.gov/ and type in the search function H.R. 1066 - basically it's a bill introduced by a Congressman Sam Farr (CA-17) titled "Peace Corps Expansion Act of 2009" which aims to get more funding for PC for the next few years and roughly double the readjustment allowance based of months of service for returned volunteer types. (In other words, it helps us to actually be able to afford to eat, and live.) There are currently 40 co-sponsors and it's sitting in the House Foreign Affairs committee. If you're interested in writing your representative in Congress to support this bill I would consider it a personal favor for me. Heck, if you email me, I'll even find out how to contact your representative for you if you don't want to do the leg work yourself.

Also, I got this sent to me and thought it might help a few of you to see just how Azerbaijan compares to other countries around the world. If this gives you a good idea of the type of country this is, Azerbaijan and Iran are the only two dominately Shiite muslim nations in the world. But when you comepare the two, it's apples to beef stakes. A friend sent this survey on religion across countries and across US states. Some of you might find it fun to read and to learn that accoring to the Gallup survey;

1. Those from Alabama are as religious as Iranians

2. Those from Vermont are as religious as the Swiss

3. Georgians in Atlanta are as religious as Georgians of Tbilisi!

http://docs.google.com/gview?a=v&attid=0.1&thid=11f8429586441fb3&mt=application%2Fpdf&pli=1

Ok, so how about a little information about my city? Since lots of you have more than snickered at the name, I figure it's time for a little education about the lovely city of Gence (pronounced Ganja).

Gence is Azerbaijan's second largest city (pop apx 300,000). Located on the Gence river, the city was rebuilt in the 12th century after an earthquake in 1139 destroyed the original town that was founded in the 5th century, east of its current location. In 1918 Gence was the provisional capital of a briefly independent Azerbaijan. The name 'Ganja' is not drug related... it originates in the Ganjak tribe. The city was re-named Elisavetspol from 1804 to 1918, changed back to the name of Gence in 1918 until 1935, when it was renamed Kirovabad. It reverted once more to Gence in 1989.

The road from Baku to Gence is one of the country's most scenic. The area is famous for the Kapaz mountain and the 7 lakes near it, particularly the Goygol - the blue lake. The territory is perfect for swimming, hiking or for a pic-nic. (Unfortunately, if you are a foreigner like myself, Goygol is currently closed to you. However, Xacikend is lovely, and very close by with just as scenic places to pic-nic).

The city was the birthplace of many poets and is considered the country's literary centre. People in Gence are generally well educated. Not surprising considering all four state, and two private higher educational institutions function in the city with 24,000 students enrolled per semester.

With ample streets and avenues and well designed parks, Gence is more aesthetically pleasing than most Azeri towns. The city retains a strong German influence in its architecture.

With a vast main square, the city has its fair share of Soviet architecture, some of it quite good, like the grand city hall with its immense colonnade. Lenin's statue is now gone from the main square, but the city retains a lot from previous times, both in architecture and in character. (Incidentally, the main square now holds a statue of the former Azeri President H. Aliyev).

Although most Christians are now gone (Armenians, Russians and Germans) there are several churches worth a visit: a ruined Armenian church in the south of the town, the Alexander Nevski church (now the puppet theatre!) and a 19th century orthodox church. Another local historical treasure is the bottle house, a two-storey building decorated with about 50,000 glass bottles!

Although it is similar in size to Tacoma, Gence is a relatively quiet city. Unfortunately, with all its modern conveniences, and many wonderful historical sites, the city offers very few places to eat out. There are three larger restaurants in town, where women are welcome to eat and usually the food is quite nice. As for local entertainment, the best that I could recommend is generally when events come to town such as concerts or the circus (currently in town, and very good might I add!)

I hope that this gave you all a little more background on the city I am currently living in!

In order to provide a more historical context, a majority of this information was gathered from the following site:

http://www.travel-images.com/az-ganja.html

Reprinted: By Simon Montlake

from the October 31, 2007 edition

http://www.csmonitor.com/2007/1030/p99s01-duts.html

Christian Science Monitor

Authorities in Azerbaijan say they have detained a group of heavily armed Islamic militants who were allegedly plotting an attack on the US Embassy in Baku, which closed Monday in response to the threat. The State Department in Washington said there was "specific and credible threat information," but gave no further details.

The detained men were described as being Wahhabis – a Sunni Muslim sect that originated in Saudi Arabia – and their ranks included an Army officer who had supplied assault rifles and grenade launchers, Reuters reported Monday. It quoted a spokesman for the National Security Ministry, Arif Babayev.

Babayev said that part of the militant group was detained at the weekend in the village of Mashtagi, near Baku, including the military officer, who had recently gone absent from his post.

"It was established that the group ... had four Kalashnikov rifles, one Kalashnikov grenade launcher, 20 grenades, rounds and other automatic weapon parts," Babayev said.

The British Embassy in Baku also closed Monday over "local security concerns." The Associated Press reported a statement by the National Security Ministry that the arrests had prevented a wider terrorist plot against national and foreign targets.

"That prevented a large-scale, horrifying terror attack that was being prepared by members of this group against several state structures in Baku and embassies and missions of the countries which are members of the international anti-terror coalition," the ministry said, adding that other members of the group were being sought.

Azerbaijan is a largely secular Muslim republic on the western shore of the oil-rich Caspian Sea. British oil giant BP operates two large oil and gas export projects in Azerbaijani waters that supply energy markets in Western Europe, the Financial Times reported Tuesday from Moscow.

Azerbaijan, with its population of 8m, is a predominantly Muslim republic with borders with Iran, Russia and Georgia….

The arrests come at a time when Azerbaijan is enjoying economic growth of more than 30 per cent amid a growing oil surge.

However, poverty remains widespread. Human rights groups say Islamist religious groups are gaining influence, particularly among the poor.

Azerbaijan's relationship with neighboring Iran may have been the focus of a recent visit to Baku by Central Intelligence Agency director Michael Hayden, Eurasianet.org, a specialist website funded by the Open Society Institute, reported earlier this month. General Hayden met Azerbaijan's president, Ilham Aliyev, on Sept. 28 during what US officials said was a regional tour to discuss security and international terrorism.

Some local analysts believe the US wants to use Azerbaijan as a base for a possible military attack on Iran, according to Euroasianet.org. It also cited Ilgar Mammadov, an independent analyst, as drawing a link between Hayden's visit and the trial of a pro-Iranian militant group.

A preliminary hearing for the government's case against the 15-member group, named after its leader, Said Dadashbeyli, took place at the end of September in Baku, the Turan news agency reported on October 1. Group members are also charged with high treason, illegal arms possession, illegal contact with foreign intelligence services, robbery and other crimes.

The Ministry of National Security alleges that Dadashbeyli, an Azerbaijani citizen, worked with radical Islamic organizations – as yet not publicly named – and Iranian intelligence agents to set up a state with Shar'ia laws. A military group, dubbed the Northern Army of Mehdi, was allegedly formed by several of the defendants, prosecutors allege. Prosecutors also claim that one of the group's members, Jeihun Aliyev, traveled to the Iranian holy city of Qom, where he was offered money by Iranian agents. The money was to be used to mount a propaganda campaign designed to undermine Western and Israeli influence in Azerbaijan.

Earlier this month, Iran hosted a summit for states bordering the Caspian sea, at which leaders from Azerbaijan and four other countries pledged not to allow their territory to be used for attacks against fellow littoral states, Asia Times reported. Russian President Vladimir Putin was among those attending the summit, which played down the issue of disputed national boundaries in the oil-rich inland sea.

Jamestown.org reported last year that Azerbaijan may have been overstating the risk of a possible Al Qaeda attack in Baku as a way of currying favor with the US government. After 2001, Azerbaijani authorities arrested and extradited several foreign militants to Middle East countries. Six Azerbaijani were jailed in 2005 for allegedly plotting terrorist attacks against national and foreign targets on behalf of Al Qaeda. But the government's claims that Baku was a prime target for foreign terrorists should be treated with caution.

Recent trends show that local radical organizations pose more of a danger to Azerbaijan than does al-Qaeda. Yet, the Azerbaijani government is trying to connect the surge of local radicalism with the influence of al-Qaeda. There are several reasons for that. First, the country's regime is trying to show the United States its loyalty concerning the war on terrorism. Thus, the sentencing of al-Qaeda "members" was done in order to demonstrate the activity of Azerbaijan's special services.

Secondly, by exaggerating the danger from al-Qaeda, the Azerbaijani government is trying to portray itself as the one and only pro-democratic force in a region dominated by anti-Western religious extremists. For many years, the current regime in Azerbaijan successfully sold this propaganda, often depicting outbreaks of social unrest as the work of Islamic extremists….

Compared to other Muslim countries such as Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Turkey and Pakistan, al-Qaeda will have a hard time influencing and recruiting local Azerbaijanis for suicide terrorist missions. Furthermore, up to 75-80 percent of the population is Shiite, to which the ideology of al-Qaeda is hostile. Finally, a majority of the mosques, where al-Qaeda usually recruits its followers, are under tight surveillance by the Azerbaijani government.

After gaining independence from Soviet rule in 1991, Azerbaijan fought a war in a disputed breakaway region, the British Broadcasting Corp. reports.

As the Soviet Union collapsed, the predominantly Armenian population of the Nagorno-Karabakh region stated their intention to secede from Azerbaijan. War broke out. Backed by troops and resources from Armenia proper, the Armenians of Karabakh took control of the region and surrounding territory.

In 1994 a ceasefire was signed. About one-seventh of Azerbaijan's territory remains occupied, while 800,000 refugees and internally displaced persons are scattered around the country.

"Never let the fear of strking out keep you from playing the game."

Sometimes in life the most rewarding opportunities we have are also the most difficult challenges we face. I know that most of you think I'm insane for even coming here to begin with... but you stood by me and supported my choice to leave. Now that I'm here, many of you want me to come home. Understandably, you are worried about my safety. Please let work things out here. I'm not a little girl anymore. I'm smart enough to make decisions for myself... please just trust me one more time. I am working with peace corps to increase my safety and my wellbeing at site. I love you all, and I will keep you posted once I know what's going on.

The world’s oldest woman, a 127-year-old living in the former Soviet republic of Azerbaijan, attributes her longevity to a clean and pure environment and the warmth of her family life, Azerbaijani news agency APA has reported.

Bayaz Xalilova has five children, 28 grandchildren and 47 great-grandchildren. Her oldest child is 80, and the youngest is 60. Xalilova has always lived in her native Gadabay District, nearly 400 km west of the capital Baku.

"In my region, the air and water are like cures for illnesses. Had I lived in Baku, or other cities, I would not have not lasted so long," she said in an interview with the agency. Xalilova is also happy with Azerbaijan’s current government. "We had a very difficult life in Soviet times. Today’s government is nice. It cares about the people," she said.

Editor’s Note: Source: Azerbaijani news agency APA, Baku, in Azeri 1201 gmt 26 Sep 07

Reposted from: http://www.eurasianet.org/posts/092707.shtml

This is the view from my new bedroom window! I'm all moved in and thought you might like to see where I'm staying. I am officially a Peace Corps volunteer now, as I swore in on Thursday last week. I moved to my permanent site on Friday and have been settling in for the last week. Everything is going well here. I like my site, site mates, co-workers and my host organization and family. Everyone here is so nice!! There is plenty for me to see and do here since I’m in a bigger site than most volunteers. So I have been keeping myself busy meeting new people and exploring town. I also now play softball with my site mates since the volunteers here have inter-city tournaments. (I know, me playing sports… scary huh?)

I received mail yesterday for the first time in my new site so I know that the address works properly. It took just under two weeks for me to get mail, as the post office here is an international one. So don’t worry about me getting the letters anymore, I will hopefully be able to send out a few more now that I have a post office that is used to international mailing.

Things are going well at work; I’ve just started so I’m still doing a lot of the initial observations and learning how things here work. I’m fortunate enough to have several co-workers who speak English along with a director that also speaks English.

OK, so since I've now received a billion and one messages asking for items I would like sent I will include a "wants" list since I don't really NEED anything at all. I love letters most of all, so if you want to write me, I think postage is only 90 cents or something like that...

"Wants" (please don't spend a fortune sending me these things, none of them are necessary and I can live perfectly content without all of them, but none the less these are wants... stuff I miss from America or would use here)

-Instant oatmeal (I like plain, peaches & cream, and strawberries & cream, but will eat any flavor) or other dry non-perishable foods (nuts, noodles, instant rice, etc)

-Crystal light packets (the little single serve to go drink mix you add to water or anything like it, generic is fine! I only drink water here)

-Hand sanitizer (if you send please seal in zip lock, as they explode sometimes during flight-- no public bathrooms have soap)

-Books, games, dvd (burned copies don't get stolen in customs), anything entertaining

-Clothes (I'm no longer a 2XL, I'm now just an XL as I've lost 8 kilos since I got here (about 17 lbs) so any T-shirts with American writing or pictures on them (people love that stuff)

-Pocket tissues, toilet paper, or anything of the sort since we have to buy our own, and it makes great packing paper (will roll it up myself so no worries)

-Any instant mixes that you add to water/milk etc (ranch, gravy, Campbell’s soup in a pouch, stroganoff mix, etc)

-White board markers

-Clothes pins (just one or two in a box is fine, as I wash what I wear every day to keep things from piling up)

But most of all, letters are great. I miss you all, I'm doing fine. Work is going all right, and the new site is much cooler in temp than Sumqayit was. I will do my best to keep you all updated as much as possible. I now have 119 pics up on my myspace account for those of you on myspace you are welcome to check them out.

This week was challenging and bitter sweet. I finally said goodbye to the kids from my english conversation club as we held our finally meeting. (That's them above, posted with their consent and knowledge). We had a tough week with policy and language tests, packing, and preparing to move to our final sites. It's sad knowing I will leave behind all the friends I've already made as I head out to my new town... I will fortunately still have site mates, but sadly one less than what was anticipated. One of my friends chose to go home due to personal reasons this week, and I miss her very much. (I wish you the best of luck wherever life takes you hun!!) I swear in on Wednesday, and will spend the last part of the week traveling to my permanent site. I have posted my new address on the side of the page, so if you would like to send me letters I would be greatful to have them! I will do my best to keep you all updated as soon as I find a reliable internet cafe at my site. I miss you all, and I'm doing great. Please continue to pray for my safety and success in my site! So the journey begins... "And now Harry let us persue that flighty temptress, adventure!"

She was wearing a Mayan dress, the traditional attire of indigenous people in central America, and the hotel's response was also traditional: throw her out.

Staff at Cancun's five-star Hotel Coral Beach appear to have assumed this was another street vendor or beggar, so without asking questions they ordered her to leave. Except the woman was Rigoberta Menchú, the Nobel peace prizewinner, Unesco goodwill ambassador, Guatemalan presidential candidate and figurehead for indigenous rights.

The attempted eviction, an example of discrimination against indigenous people common in central and south America, backfired when other guests recognised Ms Menchú and interceded on her behalf.

The human rights activist was in the Mexican coastal resort at the request of President Felipe Calderón to participate in a conference on drinking water and sanitation and was due to give interviews at the hotel.

David Romero, a journalist and newsreader who was due to interview her for state radio Quintana Roo, told local media that hotel security tried to eject Ms Menchú from the lobby. They relented when told who she was. It was said not to be the first time a hotel has tried to throw her out.

Ms Menchú, 48, was awarded the 1992 Nobel peace prize for protesting against human rights abuses during Guatemala's brutal civil war.

Commentators noted the irony of upmarket resorts discriminating against real Maya while trying to attract tourists with fake Mayan architecture and spectacles.

==

This article was reposted from the following location:

http://www.guardian.co.uk/international/story/0,,2150467,00.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rigoberta_Mench%C3%BA Rory Carroll, Latin America correspondent Friday August 17, 2007 The Guardian

If you are asking "why is she posting this?" Perhaps you are unaware what the tourist industry is doing to developing nations and third world countries... in my short time in Azerbaijan, I have already seen the effects of american culture here... from american music videos and food products, to american brands and advertisements. It is not necissarily a bad thing... but it can have negative impacts when what it shows the world is that money is the only thing that matters. This just goes to show that we need to show the world that there are more important things than making money. Everyone here asks me why are you here? How much are you making? They can't understand the concept of volunteering. The language doesn't even have an actual word for volunteer. The closest word means "from the heart." For many, money is motivation.

Life has so much more to offer... I'm not here to make anyone rich financially. There are things in this world that bring more joy than money could ever buy. I am just beginning to figure out how I can teach the world to give these things. Every person deserves to have a happy and rewarding life... it's just ironic when those like Ms Menchú who have devoted their lives to fighting against human rights abuses are the victim of the very same thing they are fighting to end.

My hat goes off to you Ms Menchú. Wherever you are, know there those of us scattered across the world trying to follow in your footsteps...

Some of the things I find myself missing the most about America are things which I would never have thought I would miss... OK, mostly.

Things I Currently Miss the Most

1. Seat Belts, Speed Limits, and Paved Roads

2. Refrigeration on a consistent basis

3. Variety in my diet

4. Public Garbage Cans/waste management systems

5. Knowing what is happening in the outside world

OK so maybe not all that surprising, but they are all things I no longer take for granted. Some of these things are a lot more important to me than I thought they would be. It is ironic how we never truly miss something until we don't have it anymore. Basic "necessities" are not consider such everywhere in the world, and it us not even thought of as an inconvenience for people here. Ignorance is bliss. (I am not by any means saying people are stupid, I am saying that they don't know any other way of living, so therefore do not question why things are the way they are.)

Also, I can say it is now safe to talk about Harry Potter to me in letters/emails, as I finished the book within 48 hours of receiving it. I was more than pleased with the outcome, and must say that if you haven't already finished it you are in for a treat. Good to know my theories were largely accurate. (Thanks to all the pals at www.mugglenet.com)

So, this weeks downer: my iPod is fried... I think. It won't charge, and it won't play, so I think it is gone for good. Luckily I only paid $65 for it. Now I am relying on my disc man, meaning I'm eating my way through Energizer Lithium AA batteries. (BTW: I don't usually product endorse, but these batteries really are the best I have ever used... I get 10 times the play time with them, and my digital camera is still on its first set after 2 months.)

Highlight of the week: I finally have a nalgene bottle again so I can boil water, and I got the worlds best package from Mom! Thanks Mutti! Also, I am getting letters from people, slowly but surely, from James and Michael, Heather, Marie, Uncle Carl and Aunt Drea, Mom and Grandpa. Thank you guys, they make the world of difference when I get no other contact with home! I have also written letter to the family and many friends... so be patient...

Most interesting thing I have done this week: I went swimming yesterday! It was fairly hot, so the host family decided to go visit other relatives... my host sisters and I went swimming in the evening and then chowed down on some fresh peppers, bread, and sausage! I'm taking it easy on the food here, as I've now had food poisoning a few times. I just have to be careful where I get the food from, and how long it has been since a power outage.

Aside from that, everything is going well. I am please to say that I now have less than 4 weeks before I swear in as an offical Peace Corps Volunteer, and can't wait to get to my site! If you have any questions, and have yet to ask, please send them via Snail Mail to the address on the side of the page, or to my email at Raechelle.Watkins@gmail.com

I will do my best to write you all again soon, and post a few more pictures next time!

Always and forever,

Raechelle

Ok so yesterday was a very big day for us in the Youth Development and the Community Economic Development sectors since we found out where we will be spending the next two years and what organizations we will be working for. Unfortunately, for security reasons I can not disclose my towns name. However, I can say it is a large city, with constant electricity and running water. I will be working with a youth leadership organization that helps to positively impact young men and women by helping to improve their english and leadership skills. The organization aims to help students participate in study abroad programs. I'm very excited that I will be working directly with youth!

I also will have fellow volunteers in my community ("site mates") so I won't be too terribly home sick... except for mom's cooking :)

I posted a few pictures up on my myspace and facebook sites for those of you who want to see what it looks like here. Message me if you need to be added as a friend to gain access to the photos.

Ok, I find out where I will be spending the next two years this afternoon... in about an hour. So I am excited and a little nervous today. I also wanted to just let you all know that things are going really well here. I have done a lot since I got in country, and will try to give you a brief run down of what I have been up to:

1. Language Classes six days a week

2. Peace Corps sessions in Youth Development training

3. Peace Corps hub days were we learn all sorts of stuff, and we get shots...always with the shots.

4. I went on a hike on a very beautiful "mountain"

5. I spent a weekend in Barda, which was very hot.

6. I have been working on hosting an english club once a week with fellow volunteers in my training site.

7. I have been sweating my butt off! It's really hot here!

Ok, so that was lame, but to be fair, I do have to leave soon :)

I love you all, and will update you again soon! Next time a real one, I promise!

Hey everyone! Just wanted to write a quick note from the internet cafe letting you all know I am safe. I can't disclose the location of my site for safety reasons, but I am able to tell you I am in the East at the moment. We've been busy with training for the last 10 days, and I am finally at my host family site, and doing well enough to tell my family "I like fruit." They think I'm funny, which helps. I have a host mom and dad, and two sisters about 13 and 14 years old. I also have a host aunt that is 22 and is able to communicate in a little english to help me say important information. I have some letters to send out, but the post office here doesn't have envelopes or stamps currently and it will take a week for them to get supplies. I got your package marie! Thanks for making me the first one to get one, it makes you special when you get them. I love mail days. Everyone please write me letters! I also have a cell phone, but I can't call the US with it because it is so expsensive. I'm 12 hours ahead of washington state, so if anyone wants to pay the 3 bucks a min to call me (or buy a calling card) my phone number is 011-994-50-753-8426. I will answer if you call regardless of time. I can also receive texts from all networks besides verizon. I will write you all soon when I am in town again! I am safe, and well, and living it up!

This week brought more surprises than I had anticipated. On top of the stress of preparing for a move out of the country, packing, shopping and saying goodbye to my entire family and friends for two years, my grandmother passed away on Tuesday. It was very unexpected, and the entire family is undoubtedly in shock. I hadn't planned on seeing everyone again so soon, let alone seeing them for something like this. Tonight is grandma's funeral. We will be holding a candle light vigil for her. I have to consider myself so fortunate to have spent so much time this last year with my entire family. I believe that God works in mysterious ways... and although I will miss my grandmother very much, I know in my heart that she would want me to keep going. Grandma was tough, but she was strong. I admired her for her ability to fight with everything she had, even until the very end.

Needless to say, this has been a very difficult week, in many different ways. Tomorrow is my last day in Washington... I still have so much to do. The good news is, my luggage is just 2 lbs under the weight limit... so as long as I can fight the urge to put more stuff into my suitcase, I know I will have enough things to get me through to winter.

To my family, I wish you all the best of luck in the coming months. Stay strong, and remember to say "I love you." We don't say it enough. To my mom and dad, I love you more than anything or anyone in the world. Thank you for being my rock and for giving me everything... certainly much more than I deserve. To my friends, although I won't be here, I won't truly be gone. Remember, I will miss you all as much as you miss me and surely more... To everyone, please write. I don't care what you write me, I just love to hear from everyone. So with that, I will see you all in two years! I will try to write again as soon as I can to let you know I'm getting settled in.

To all my family, and close family friends who came to say goodbye yesterday, I just wanted to say thank you. It means so much to me that I could say goodbye to everyone before I left, as hard as that is. You have all done so much to help me get this far, and I couldn't have done it without you. I have lots of pictures to take with me, but remember I can always use a few more! Don't forget to send me as many as you can over the next two years... weddings, birthdays, thanksgiving, christmas and any other holiday or family event that I should have been there... please send me pictures! I had such a nice time eating all your tasty foods, and getting to laugh (and cry) with you all one more time. I know you are all worried about me, but I know I will be fine. I know that things will be both exciting and meaningful. I may miss a lot here... but you will all miss a lot there. I love you all, and thank you again for EVERYTHING!