Juba, Southern

April 12, 2010

Hassan Fataki is a somewhat short man in his late fifites. He shows a warm smile as he approaches his polling location in the west of Juba in the area called Muniki. He was unable to vote yesterday because his name was not found on the voter roll, so he spent the day walking between different polling location in the hoping his name and registration have accidentally appeared somewhere else.

In order to find his name, he has to approach polling staff and request they look through an alphabetical list of registered voters. Because names were originally handwritten during registration and different election workers typed the information into a database, names are often written incorrectly. Many polling locations have received lists that are entirely in Arabic which makes the finding registrations presented in English all the more difficult.

In addition, all registrations include four names while most Southern Sudanese use two or three names. Most voters added their father's name to the registration under the assumption they were required to use four names. Sometimes, the fourth name has been listed as the first which has further confused the search for missing registrations.

Today, as voting winds down, Hassan has returned to his original polling location, where he was registered, and expected to return to,.in order to vote.

Groups of polling locations are called polling locations are called polling centers. Polling centers are grouped together under the control of the local National Election Commission Controllers.

Luckily for Hassan, the Muniki NEC Controller has just arrived at his polling location with the original registration booklets from November. Registration cards were torn out of the registration booklets and a stub was left behind with a copy of the voters name and registration number.

According to the Controller, who declined to have her name recorded, they NEC local office met last night and decided they needed to bring these booklets to each of the polling locations to confirm registration cards. The polling staff look through the registration booklet if a name is missing from the voter roll and still allow them to vote as long as their names have been found.

The Controller looks tired as she slowly leafs through each of the seven booklets from this polling location looking for Hassan's registration. Hassan looks over her shoulder with his hands behind his back expectantly but trying to stay out of her way.

Although this solution is far from perfect, as registration cards can not always be connected to the voter rolls, it is allowing many people to vote. On average, polling centers have still only allowed perhaps 20% of would-be voters to cast their ballot. At different sites around Juba, the heads of the polling locations report they have turned away as many as 50% of the people who are looking to vote. The great majority of these people have valid registration cards that could not be located in the voter rolls.

The controller slumps back in her chair and calls over to the staff member manning the voter rolls. Hassan's registration has been found and he will be allowed to vote.

Interestingly, the polling staff is able to then find his name, which appears to be very similar to the name on his registration card. In the voter rolls, his registration is alphabetized by his first name and his registration number is correct. As I asked why his name was not found earlier, people begin to get suspicious, and stop talking to me.

It is a strange situation because the controller and the polling staff seem diligent in their work and interested in ensuring people have their chance to vote. Hassan's situation may have just been an oversight or perhaps something else, but nothing indicates any wrongdoing.

As the second of three days of polling come to a close, reports are coming in that polling centers beyond Muniki have received the registration booklets. Although they are arriving late, they are now able to locate peoples' names by searching through a list of registration numbers.

Apparently, missing registrations is a problem specific to the south, and it seems the government of the south and the southern NEC feel the problem was an error of data entry. This is a good fix for a problem that has seriously complicated this historic vote.

For the moment, as Hassan happily dips his finger in the green ink and collects his ballots, but the polling staff have their work cut out for them as polling is set to close tomorrow.

Juba, Southern Sudan

April 13, 2010

Another interesting day in the capital of Southern Sudan. Most polling locations throughout the country now have the original Registration booklets which has allowed many more people to vote. The heads of polling locations in the north and west of Juba have report they have been able to increase the casting of ballots by 20-40%.

Once the election is complete, we will have a fuller picture of how the elections have proceeded, but for the moment, in addition to issues of free and fair elections, the persistent logistical issues will a major issue of these elections in the South.

The system of ballots, polling staff and materials which have been incorrectly delivered will play a roll in the success or failure of these elections.

System of Ballots

The process of voting is an unnecessarily complex process that requires each voter to cast twelve separate ballots in four separate bins.

Voters arrive at the polling location, and after finding their registration are instructed to dip their fingers in green ink. They are then allowed to proceed to the first table to receive their ballots for executive elections. At this station, there are three ballots (with green, blue or orange headers) which represent the elections for the President of the republic of Sudan, the President of the Government of Southern Sudan and the Governor of the state were the polling center is located.

Voters have three more elections which each have their own table at polling locations. The National Assembly, State Assembly and the Southern Sudan Legislative Assembly. Voters can vote for parties in a proportional election. Also, women and the political parties are guaranteed a certain percentage of seats, so voters are given the choice from which parties they shall be picked.

Although part of the election process was to inform Sudanese citizens of the voting system, this information is not readily available and most Southern Sudanese are not entirely sure how there vote translates into representation.

At polling locations, it is fairly common to see someone cast the executive ballot and attempt to head directly for the exit, but polling staff tend to catch them.

Polling Staff

Each polling location has a total of seven people who are responsible to ensure the balloting process is followed. There is a Head of the polling location, one Identification Officer and four Ballot Paper Issuers. Each has a specific job so no one is able to take breaks during the ten hours reserved for voting.

Often times, polling locations have been set up in open areas where the sun beats down throughout the day. While some polling centers have received awning materials so they can set up in the shade, no location has received food or water. Some polling locations have received large coverings that keep the sun off the polling staff and voters, but for the majority of outside locations, staff members are very uncomfortable.

Polling staff are very vocal about these issues and some have threatened to shut locations down unless these issues are corrected.

Materials

The United Nations has been responsible for the delivery of non-sensitive election materials, including the ballot boxes, the cardboard stands on which people cast their vote, but it has been the responsibility of the National Election Commission to arrange the safe delivery of ballots, tamper-evident seals, ink, etc. to polling locations.

It is a very common sight around Juba to enter a polling location and find polling staff quietly sitting around sealed ballot boxes not allowing people to vote because certain ballots are missing.

Oftentimes, one of the state legislative ballot papers at one polling center will have been switched with another polling center on the other side of town. Polling staff are unable to make the switch themselves because of protocols, cost of moving between polling locations and they have been instructed to be at the polling location throughout the day.

Juba, Southern Sudan

April 11, 2010

Polling has closed on this first day of elections on a searing hot day in the southern capital of Juba. Would-be voters hug walls or collect under trees as they avoid the blazing hot sun. Although they hold valid registration cards, they grumble about not being allowed to cast their ballot because their name did not appear on the voter rolls. It is estimated that no more than 15% of registered voters have cast their ballot on this first of three days of voting.

The voting process began nearly six months ago with a week long voter registration. Sudanese adults were registered after proving their identity with either a national ID or two witnesses, although in most cases, these requirements were not followed. Up to four names were recorded on the official registration sheets and then transferred to a registration card that was laminated with thick tape. Citizens instructed to bring their registration cards to elections.

Registration lists were collected from almost 2,700 registration locations in Southern Sudan alone, and the handwritten names were then typed into a nation-wide database. These lists were printed, along with other election materials, and then distributed, in April, to election staff throughout Southern Sudan.

During today's polling, many registered voters unable to find their names on the voter rolls, which are alphabetized by first name. Some confusion has arisen when family names appear where first names should, or in some cases, names have been printed in Arabic, which neither voters nor polling staff can read.

While these problems loom over the election, the much larger issue is the names which do not appear on the voter rolls at all. Many people who have not been able to find their names at their polling station have walked to other polling stations in an attempt to have their chance to vote. Most visit two or three polling stations but are still unable to vote.

At this point, it is unknown why these names have disappeared. It is possible some names were removed after registration because they were invalid, but there has been no official statement to that effect. Some of the representatives from the opposition parties have suggested names have been removed and sent to distant polling stations, but they have not provided evidence of their claims.

Although polling staff are aware of the problem, it is unclear whether the issue will be fixed. A temporary solution could be to send each polling stations voting rolls from other polling stations, but this may compromise the validity of the elections if multiple ballots from are cast for the same registration.

Another solution would be to reorganize the lists according to the registration number which would make it easier for polling staff to find valid registration card that may have a misprinted name.

Either solution would present the National Election Commission or the Government of Southern Sudan with the difficult logistical challenge of reprinting the lists, protecting the integrity of the data and distributing these materials to polling stations within the election period. Planes would need to be chartered to the ten states within Southern Sudan and then materials would have to be driven to polling stations that are often difficult to reach. Considering that many polling stations have not yet received tables, chairs, and in some cases, necessary election materials, this does not seem likely.

In the midst of all the problems, many of today's polling stations had a quiet and almost solemn feel, with people whispering as they stand in line to present their registration cards to polling staff. The question tonight is if the experience of visiting a polling station will hold the same amount of reverence if the problems are not solved.

For sure, the sun will shine down hard again tomorrow, and southern Sudanese people will return to their polling stations in the hope they will be able to dip their finger in the green ink as proof they have voted.

I've been here in South Sudan for one month now, and a lot has happened.  So much, in fact, that I really haven't had time to either write in a journal or here on the blog.  There is really a lot to do with this mosquito-net distribution and not a lot of time.

Although, this is fairly late to be doing this, I would like to give my first impressions of this country, as I have never experienced a place like this before.  This is truly unlike any experience I have had.  There are certainly times when I have drawn comparisons between South Sudan and the other African countries to which I have been, but this area is truly unlike anything I have ever seen.

1.  Juba, the capitol of South Sudan, has an interesting and terribly sad mix of abject poverty and rapid growth that has been constantly shocking for me to see.  I caught my first glimpse as I touched down on the runway and saw a little child standing in the tall grass not 20 feet away from the 747 I was landing in.

As I understand, once Juba was named the capitol after the signing of the CPA, the city has continued unprecedented growth without any urban planning whatsoever.  Within the boundaries of Juba, I have yet to see any planting fields or even small vegetable gardens.  It just isn't possible to find open land because there are so many people moving into the city.  Food is literally flown and trucked in from Uganda and Kenya.  I will admit that I didn't believe it for a while, but things like beef and tomatoes are all coming to Juba from other countries.

The city is also lacking significantly in regards to utilities... no water, no sewage, no water runoff, no landlines or electricity (although there is a semi-working power grid).  

2.  The entire country feels like a graveyard of generations past.

Everywhere I have been so far, there are remnants of South Sudan's history... broken-down planes on the side of every runway.  Rusted out tanks on the side of the road along with old road construction equipment left behind when companies pulled out of the area.

South Sudan's history is laying in the streets and is underneath the houses.  It is something I am still trying to fully grasp, but even if I do not yet understand the subtlties, it is apparent everywhere I go.

I am going to try and write regularly as I am now out in the field and am allowing myself to be more pensive.

I miss you all and would love to hear from you.

Todd

This is my running list of the best iphone applications.  I am ordering them by how much I use them, but don't hold me to it.   I know, I'm a dork.

Google Mobile - FREEGoogle has come closest to creating a 1-stop application for the majority of iphone uses... contacts, web search, maps, etc.   It is an excellent concept that Google takes to a new level with their voice rocognition for web searches.   What they are missing:  Voice search of contacts, connection to native google maps application (see "Say Where."

Say Where - FREEWOW... voice activated search of addresses (connected to GPS location) and then automatic integration with google maps.  Once the address is located, the application automatically maps directions from your current location.  Killer app!

WunderRadio - $5.99This is one of the few applications I have been willing to buy, and I can't get over this app.  WunderRadio, who also have a fairly robust weather app, have searched the web and collected as many streaming radio-casts.  The app plays them either over wi-fi or 3G.  Here is the best part... if you find a stream that is not included on the app, you can email them and they will add it.  What is even better is they are quick to respond.

The Weather Channel - FREEThis should have been native to the iphone.  It is a no brainer.  I think this is better than WeatherBug, but others disagree... either way, they are both free and robust in the information they offer.  Both make use of GPS to locate accurate weather information.

Flixster - FREEGreat app that connects movies, trailers and theaters together all on your geo-location.  There isn't much to say except it works and it works well.

Remote - FREEApple's very own application.  Once the iphone is connected to wi-fi, it can control itunes on a mac or an apple TV.  I think it's pretty cool.

Sportacular - FREEWith this you can look up schedules, current game info, standings, news, play-by-plays and just about anything else related to any sport.  You can also create a favorite screen so you can put the info you find important on the first screen.

Fring - FREESo I can never get the GoogleTalk gadget from the Google Mobile app to work, so I end up using Fring.  I do not use Fring for Voice over IP calls, although it would be great if it worked the way T-Mobile phones do (never going to happen).  Fring is great for IMing.

Google Earth - FREEI almost never use this application since I have Google Maps, but it is so damn cool that I can't bring myself to delete it from my phone.  It is really a sweet application.

Lux Touch - FREERisk for the iphone...  I told you I was a dork.  The only downfall is you can only play one player against the computer. Supposedly, Lux is coming out with a multiplayer option for the iphone.  I think they already have a version for regular computers.

Enjoy Sudoku Daily - FREEThis is great free game.  I think it is the best of the Sudoku applications because it offers new puzzles every day.  A lot of the free versions will have a set number of puzzles that never update so the puzzle list is finite.  This updates a 7 new puzzles every day (one at each difficulty level).  There is a whole help portion to the application that explains some of the wierd minutia of Sudoku puzzles, which helps with the Devious and Fiendish levels.

So, I've also downloaded a bunch of applications I think are cool, but don't have a use for, and I keep them on my computer.  I will post that list below... but for the moment, this is what I got.

Washington, DC is definitely an odd place. I could (and probably should) devote an entire entry to all the oddities that make up the District (chief among them Johnny DC)... BUT on November 4th DC served up one of the greatest parties I have ever seen.

10:00am: I vote.

10:00am-9:30pm: Long process of collecting my Voting Prizes... Flu shots, free coffee, Krispy Kreme donuts, Ben & Jerry's ice cream... I can't even remember if the 4th was a work day.

9:30pm: Arrive at Stetsons Bar. We decide the downstairs is too packed, so we fight our way to the second floor. Temperature exceeds 200 degrees... retreat. We fight our way into the center of the bar and as I'm shifting some girl out of the way, I realize it's my friend Sarah Breul... good deal.

9:45pm: I realize my collection of post-it notes with all the poll closing info, possible winning models for both candidates, and electoral vote numbers is totally useless because Obama has basically already won. I literally spent about an hour writing all that blasted information down.

11:00pm: CNN calls the election. Turns out everyone in the bar is routing for Obama as the place erupts... oh wait.

11:20pm: McCain's concession speech impresses everyone and silences the bar.

11:30pm: Half the people filter out of the bar with the specific intention of running around in the streets.

12:00am: I'm back at my apartment and in bed, when I get a phone call from my roommate's little brother instructing us to get back out into the streets.

12:10-1:00am: Jon, Josh and I dance in the street with a huge crowd at 16th and U Street NW... the same place where the DC riots started after Martin Luther King Jr.'s assassination. Also the same place where I voted.

1:00am: We hear the White House is happening, so we lamely attempt to spread the word and get everyone to march down with us... no surprise... it does not happen. We walk down alone, but on the way get a ride from an Iraq vet driving his family down to the white house and run the rest of the way.

1:45am: We dance around the White House for a good long while. People are alternatively singing "Move Bush, get out the way. Get out the way, Bush, get out the way!" and the National Anthem. The best way I can think to describe the crowd is that it reminded me of a news brief detailing a coup in the developing world. Think tons of people running around screaming and shaking flags in the air.

2:00am: I see Michael Earls and his girlfriend, Victoria. I hug them both and congratulate Victoria, but then she reminds me she is Canadian. Oh well. They suggest we walk down to the Lincoln Memorial.

2:45am: We arrive at the Lincoln Memorial. I read both inscriptions and have a good feeling about tomorrow.

3:00am: While on the way back to the apartment, in a cab, I get a text from a friend of mine in Mali. He does not speak English but somehow gets someone to translate his sentiments...

AMERICA IS FANTASTIC CONTINENT NOW ALL AFRICA WISH GOOD LUCKY TO AMERICA AND OBAMA!

I made it back.

The trip from Dakar to DC took about 24 hours, so I am beat, but happy to be back in the States.

For the most part, the flights were fine. The only annoyance was the final flight from JFK to DCA. Our flight got delayed because of a storm system over DC, so we had to sit in the plane for about an hour and a half. By the time we left, I counted 25 planes sitting on the tarmac waiting to take off. Ridiculous.

I am back though...

I think I am pretty much done entering all my journal information onto this blog... the only entries left are the days of travel from Mali-Senegal-France-New York-DC.

I also have posted my photo albums (to the right) and I have put some photos into the blog enteries now that I have reliable internet.

Enjoy,

TW

I got down to Bamako and headed back to Eric Anderson's apartment... he was kind enough to let me stay there versus getting a hotel room for 40 bucks a night.

Today, I went out on a search for Saleem Diakite, international man of mystery and creator of the San Hot Pocket.

He left San when a friend of his told him they could work together down in Bamako and made gobs of money. Unfortunately, when Diakite got down here, his friend refused to give him any of the earnings. He ended up finding a new job working at the Avis rent-a-car center cleaning cars when they come back from rentals. It is not good work, but it pays the bills for the moment.

It was good to see Diakite, but you could tell he wasn't psyched to be cleaning cars. I'm hoping he gets back on his feet making those hot pockets.

This is quite possibly the coolest photo I have ever taken. The coolness does NOT come from my camera ability but from this guy.

After Yangasso, I headed back up to San. I had purposely left some of my stuff in the San Stage house and I wanted to buy a few things at the market.

Coulibaly was working again at the stage house and I snapped a couple shots of his mohawk. It's been growing out a little bit so it isn't in full effect, but it is still rock and roll all the way.

There were a couple volunteers still at the stage house. It was a good time, we went through old photographs left behind by Peace Corps Volunteers from my time and they all looked on as I explained who they were and where they lived. As a volunteer, you have such access to the culture and the community in Mali, but Peace Corps has almost no institutional memory, so any chance volunteers have to connect with the history or Peace Corps, they jump. I remember having that same feeling. It was always so weird to find out about the history of Peace Corps before I arrived. It was like finding a treasure map after you've been searching for burried treasure for the last year and a half.

I spent the afternoon walking around San and buying plastic cups and a hat. I think it was an excellent use of my time.

TW

So very tired. Around 4:30am, the rooster Vieux gave me started cock-a-doodle-doing just about every five minutes. I'm pretty sure no one in the concession got any sleep. The rooster decided the best place to stand was right next to me, too.

Everything works out in Mali though... In the mid-morning, the rooster started fighting with the other rooster the Coulibaly's have so we decided to cook him up and eat him for lunch. HA!

Lunch was great.

After we ate, I lapsed into my coma-like state underneath the gwa and lost all track of the world. I didn't realize this as it was happening, but it started to get more hot and humid than normal... which would explain why I litterally could not stay conscious... anyway, that is a great sign for rain, and around 3:30pm a full on monsoon came through and soaked the earth for a good hour and a half. It was a great feeling to have the heat broken and it was great for Yangasso. This does not ensure a good rainy season, but it is a great sign.

During the storm, Awa and her kids hung out in the their house and I took photos of everyone. It was a great hour and a half. Aloo, the second youngest, put on a show for us. Everyone had smiles on their faces and laughs came easily. It was a great way to end my stay in Yangasso.

In the afternoon, I got my stuff together and headed down to the center of Yangasso to try and find transport out of Yangasso.

Leaving this time was much easier. I had wondered whether it would be as hard as the last time... getting left handed shakes and people not looking at me... but it was a very different experience. People were all happy to have seen me and wished me a safe journey home.

Everyone in Yangasso greets you all in the United States.

I headed up to San on a transport coming from the Dugoulo (sp?) market. The transport was slow but I didn't mind too much. I spent the ride thinking about my time in Peace Corps and this visit. There are so many memories to sort through and to make sense of. I was in such a different place when I was leaving Mali in 2005. I was sorting through all that I did and what I would have changed.

In the midle of the night there was a little bit of rain and a lot of wind. The Bocadari and Awa were happy it was there, but we all had to get up and bring things inside and change where we were sleeping.

I was sleeping outside so I had to move inside. I think in an attempt to be nice they put me in the storage shed so I would have my own space. I had my own spot, but I ended up sharing the spot with all the mice who live around their house. In a half-sleep state, I turned my headlight in the direction of some noise (which was right above my head and outside my mosquito net) and found about 5 or 6 mice huddled up trying to get away from the storm. What surprised me the most was that I went directly back to sleep. For some reason it really didn't bother me that much.

I woke up a bit early, and headed over to Madu Konate's house. Yesterday he said he was heading out to the Bani River Dam, which was just being built as I was leaving in 2005. It was a Malian-Chinese joint project that installed two roads and the dam itself. Madu never really explained why he was going but he said it would be fine for me to come along. I hopped on the back of his moto and we began the journey.

It turned out to be 40km away which is pretty long in the sun on the back of a moto. We did make one stop at the house of a friend of Madu's. I figured out Madu was interested in going to the river to buy fish from the Bozos (ethnic group who live along the rivers and fish). His friend had told him he could buy fish for 400 CFA per kilo at the river versus 600 CFA in Yangasso. We had to stop at his friend's house to find the name of the people we would buy from.

While we were there his friend figured out I was American and immediately asked if I could take his picture. Why my nationality prompted him to ask for a photograph escapes me, but hey... So we walked through the town to this guy's horse and I took a photo of him, some of his kids and his horse. We then walked back and got on the moto to leave. Right as we fired up the moto and started to leave he called us back and came running after us with a small box and handed me his business card... This guy lives probably 35km from the main road of Yangasso which is already Nowheresville for Mali, but this guy still had a business card. **When I get back to the US, I will post that photo**

The river dam was pretty cool. Over half of the river is an earthen jetti. The second half has a bridge with an overflow dam that funnels the water quickly into some structure. What happens to the water is still unclear. Some people in Yangasso told me it is transported about 70km away to be used on the cornfields up there and some other people said it is just used on the millet fields in the commune of Yangasso. I definitely saw a sign saying it was used for corn fields, but all the fields in the Yangasso area are millet. I can't imagine how hard it would be to transfer all that water 70km away... I should try and figure out what exactly happens to the water.

When I got back, I was dog-tired and a little bit sunburned. I spent the afternoon using Bocadari's slingshot to knock over a can near the Coulibaly concession. Ba Djenne and Aloo helped me by collecting rocks for me. I love Malian kids... they had just as much fun collecting rocks as I did knocking the can over.

In the late afternoon, I went over to Vieux Traore's house, who was one of the people I worked with while I was living in Yangasso. Turns out, the fencing project we worked on has not really developed at all since I left. World Vision came in right after I had left and built a large scale community garden with a solar pump and water basins. Ugh. All the material the tree association and I purchased have been sitting in Vieux's back yard collecting dust.

Apparently, a few factors have changed the situation since I left...

During the drought, sales of trees has droppedThe association is worried people will steal the metal fence once it is installedThe World Vision garden has given some members of the association a cheaper alternative to creating an association run tree nursery.I certainly understand the drought altering the market for trees, which is already a difficult market in rural areas. While the trees sold by the association are reltively cheap and are usually 1 to 2 years old (which is the hardest years for growing trees), people will still try and grow trees from seed or try and find saplings in the woods, even if they are bound to die. As well, the World Vision garden is great for the community and it definitely trumps the work I did. I was working with a small association who had limited resources... World Vision has tons of cash and can spend it on whatever pleases them.What seems nuts to me is the idea that someone would steal all their fencing if they put it in place. There is metal fencing everywhere in the Yangasso and I have never heard of crooks coming in the night and making off with large amounts of chain-link fencing. I think the greater shame is the association didn't think about the possibility earlier. If they had been worried about a criminal coming and stealing their fence, we could have included cement in the project and got funding for it. As it stands now, I can't go back to Peace Corps and try and finish up my project.It is frustrating, but not insurmountable. With mobile service now in Yangasso, it means I can keep in touch with Vieux and the association pretty easily and we might be able to make some progress.I let them know they could sell the fencing and use it for the association, but they still want to try and make the tree nursery work. They already have cash invested in the project with the land, the well and the materials. We shall see.I had forgotten Vieux's character a bit, but I was reminded of how good of a person after today. It would have been so easy for the association to sell the fencing off and have a made a windfall after I left. Instead he has guarded the materials and has been pushing to make this happen. He is also one of the most pious and devout people I have ever met. He doesn't push his religion in your face, but it eminates from him with everything he does. The idea of quality applies directly to him.

This evening, I spent my time looking for my friend Chinois (he is the one on the left). His is so named because as a kid he caused problems for his parents and his grandmother thought he was a vagabond... so she said Chinois. You can guess what Malians think of the Chinese and the products they send to Mali.

Anyway, Chinois has been absent from his usual post at his boutique since I have gotten here, so I decided I would go on the hunt. I found his wife in the early evening selling food on the side of the road and she told me he has been farming during the day and has been too tired to work at the boutiqu at night. She got a little kid named Oof Diarra to walk me back to Chinois' house.

The walk turned out to be longer than I thought, but it was all right because Oof might be the coolest kid I have met since I showed up in Mali. This kid couldn't have been more than 9 years old but you would have thought he was 25. As we walked he was greeting adults and young woman. He was talking with them and joking with them... it was impressive. My mobile phone has a flashlight on it and he asked if he could use it, so I handed it over to him. He then started asking about how you call the United States on the phone. I asked him if he wanted to speak English to an American and he said yes. I took the phone back and called Carolyn (who is in England, but that's neither here nor there). I quickly said hi and handed the phone over to Oof. I could hear Carolyn say hello so I told him what to say... he did brilliantly.

I don't think I'm doing Oof justice, because this kid was amazing. When we arrived at Chinois' house, Chinois told me this kid hangs out with adults and they all like hanging out with him... super cool.

Anyway, I finally found Chinois who was, in fact, dog tired after working in the fields all day. He has a dinkey cart that takes him out to the fields which is very far away and must be incredibly hot. We hung out for a good long while and then I wanted to let him get to sleep. He insisted on walking me back to Coulibaly's house. I tried to let him go but in true Malian fashion, he wanted to give me the road.

When we showed up at the Coulibaly's house, Vieux had stopped by and given me a chicken and a rooster from the tree association. Super nice.

Turns out a nice comfortable bed actually makes a difference... who would have thunk?

My bed in Yangasso is a mat on the ground outside. It's pretty flat but there are small rocks embedded into the ground that feel pretty damn big around 3:00am.

This morning, I began my yalla yalla (walking around and greeting people). I started by heading down to the empty market area of Yangasso. Since Tuesdays are market days, the rest of the week there is a huge expanse made up of gwas which are small structures with four wooden posts and the top covered with either millet stock or dried grass. It's a cool spot during the week where old men hang out and listen to the radio.

I ended up hanging out with Mamadou Tangara. We basically sat and listened to a griot tell a story on the radio. Every so often, Mamadou would ask me about the United States... about the weather, snow or American houses... it was as if I had never left.

I then took off to look for a friend of mine Madu Konate who makes jewelry. He had made a braclet for me before I left Mali in '05, but it was stolen when I was in South Africa. He was happy enough to make another one and said it would be done by 5:00pm today.

I then sat in his work area with his son as they made braclets and earings. Since there isn't a store where you can go to buy the tools for making jewelry, they make it all themselves. In order to heat metal, they have a fan belt from a car attached to the ground and they turn it by hand. the wind is funneled into a mud oven where there is burning coal. The coals are super-heated and they will put the metal in ceramic bowls right on top of the coals. It melts in a couple minutes and then begins the process of banging the shape of the jewelry out. They were making a man's braclet when I was there (much like the one I ordered) so they would hold the metal with a pair of pliers and then swing a hammer down on the metal. When they get going, it is a little bit like a drum beat. Two whacks on the metal and then a third on the anvil. Whack-whack-ting. Whack-whack-ting. Whack-whack-ting.

In the cities, there will be four or five guys making jewelry at the same time so you get fast-paced rhythm repeated on top of itself again and again, but here in Yangasso it was a much calmer beat. I don't meditate but watching Madu create that braclet has got to be close to the idea of meditation... I must have spent an hour sitting there staring, listening and thinking about absolutely nothing.

Around noon, Madu invited me back to his house to have lunch with his family. We had bashi, fish sauce and lait caille. I'm not entirely sure this is correct, but Bashi is millet couscous. Millet is ground down to a flour and then cooked with a little bit of water so the flour clumps together into little tiny balls. The bashi was great and afterwards, I had my first Malian siesta in a long while. I forgot how hot it is here and how normal it is to absolutely pass out between 1:30 and 2:30pm... Even during the rainy season, the hours after mid-day are so hot that it is difficult to stay conscious. The only thing to do is pass out and revive yourself with Malian tea afterwards.

I then headed down to the main boutique in Yangasso and officially greeted all the old men. They are the stalwarts of Yangasso. Always to be found hanging around and passing the time. I was an honorary member of the club while I lived here, so I was quickly welcomed back to my spot. Again, it was as if I had never left. We had a couple of the same conversations and then we proceeded to hang out and tell jokes.

Since it is the rainy season, most people are out in the fields during the day weeding around their millet and making sure the crops are all right. Apparently, there hasn't been much rain this season. People are beginning to wonder if the millet is going to make it. It's a good reminder of the careful balance of life in this area of the world. For the most part, Malians hover right above the cut-off for existence. As long as there is rain during the rainy season, they can grow enough millet to last them through the rest of the year. If there isn't enough rain or if there crops don't make it for some reason, the ability to exist disappears. Just like that, a little less rain turns a thriving successful community into one of those ads you see on television with starving children covered in flies.

This all makes me realize why the culture and society is so important... why there is this amazing hospitality here. It is something they can have and control no matter what happens during the year. It's what makes them Malians... they will laugh and they will enjoy life.

TW

Morning: I slept in a bit, went out to San Lait and got some EXCELLENT frozen yogurt. I wondered if it would be as good as I thought it was when I was living here. I always thought my standards dropped, but it was still really tasty. Bought some meds at the pharmacy to relieve my aching stomach and headache... I think I forgot to mention I got ameobas while I was in Senegal. Although I wasn't excited to have them, the timing was pretty good. I was totally healthy all the way through the Putney Trip and only after dropping off the last kid did my body finally give out. Anyway, I got a Doctor friend in country to give me an armchair diagnosis of ameobas and I'me starting to feel better.

Rest of the day: Finally made it back to Yangasso. I basically got there and dropped my bag in the main boutique in the center of Yangasso. I walked around and tried to find my host family who moved out to the outskirts of Yangasso. When I finally got there, I found my host sister (Fatumata) sitting next to the road selling woso (sweet potato fries). She took me by the hand and started leading my back to the house... my host mother (Awa) saw me and came running out after me. It was a little ridiculous. After that, there were a bunch of people I don't really know and I was sat down in a chair for a good long while. My host dad (Bocadari) finally came back from the fields and was clearly happy to see me but the excitement lasted a very short amount of time and we quickly fell back into the same routine we had three years ago... it was equal parts cool and weird.

I then headed out to greet Diarra Coulibably, my Peace Corps work contact in Mali. I showed up at her house and somehow (accidently) snuck up on here. She was sitting there talking with her son and I ended up standing behind here and said good evening... she turned around and nearly fell over. I'm not entirely sure if it was the shock of seeing me or just seeing a white guy standing a foot away from here in the pitch dark. Anyway, she refused to let me go away without feeding me, so I ate a really great salad with some bread.

I then finally headed back out toward my host family's house and got royally lost on the way. In terms of where their new house is... over the river, through the woods and about five miles past grandmother's house. I had the added difficulty of a late rising moon, so I was walking around in the pitch dark. By the time I got to the right area, I sort of new where I was supposed to go, but there were guard dogs everywhere and they were all very displeased to see me. It took some trial and error and a couple of stones thrown in the direction of barking, but I finally made it to their house.

It was a bit late, but we started in on what our nightly ritual was back in the day... Balo, a friend of Bocadari's, starts talking about how much I like to eat beans (the national joke of Mali) and how he caught me once eating beans and licking the oil as it dripped down my arm. I then tell everyone the only reason Balo says that is because I caught him eating beans once with both his right hand AND his left hand (which is your poop hand). We then vehemently deny whatever the other says until we stop laughing. Soon after, Balo and Bocadari pull out a printed piece of paper that has the info for the day's horse races which I think take place in France somewhere. Every single night they go through this quasi-scientific ritual of deciding which order the first 4 horses will come in. I then mildly make fun of them for wasting their money and do quick calculations of how much money they would have if they saved that money versus losing it every night on the races...

600 CFA per week x 52 weeks = 31,200 CFA per year (roughly 80 USD)

31,200 CFA x 3 years (since I left) = 93,600 CFA (roughly 234 USD)

Anyway, I don't think my calculations ever impressed them enough to stop before, and it doesn't look like they are going to stop anytime soon... despite the fact they have NEVER won.

This is all a very long way for me to say, it is great to be back in Yangasso, and it's almost like I never left. The only major difference is the size of the family which has increased and decreased. Here is the tree...

Bocadari Coulibaly (Father)

m. Awa Coulibaly (Mother)

1. Fatumata (f, 13)

2. Aminata (f, 11)

3. Assita (f, 10)

4. BaDjenne (f, 4)

5. Aloo (m, 3)

6. Oumar (m, 2 months)

The decrease is Aminata who was promised to Bocadari's sister a long time ago (news to me) because she is unable to have children. I definitely thought she might have not made it, considering Mali terrible statistics of mortality for children under 16, but she is happy and healthy and apparently likes it better with her aunt (according to Awa).

Rock and roll.

TW

Forget to get this into the last one...

As the night was winding down, and I started asking questions about the family, Bocadari started talking about how big of a family they wanted. I had said I would want two or three children at most... Bocadari very plainly said he wanted 11 or 12 kids. All of sudden Awa piped-in and said she was done. She just had Oumar a couple months ago and said she is done being pregnent. The two of them started going back and forth... If Awa were to have 6 more kids that would be the next 7 or 8 years being pregnant and caring for an infant. She has basically spent the last 7 years doing the same... Yikes.

I all of a sudden realized Bocadari wasn't being as serious as he was messing around with Awa. He then said he could just get another wife. Awa turned to me and with a huge smile told me her husband was bad.

It was good to see them banter back and forth and joke around with each other. During my first stay in Mali, they seemed to have a really good working marriage, but I never really saw them having fun together. I don't know what happened over the last 3 years, but they now have a great time with each other. They clearly respect the other but they also have fun.

By the end of my time in the Peace Corps, my sense of marriage was there was a different standard of expectations in Mali. It seemed people looked for a mariage with shared interests and an ability to work together to bring a family up. I rarely saw what most Americans would call "love." I don't know if their feelings have grown over the years, or I just never saw it, but I can see it now and it is really nice.

So I finally got up and out of Bamako. I had set up a Peace Corps ride with one of the coolest drivers in the country, Mohamed, but I ended up sleeping in a bit. I was unhappy I missed the free, fast ride up to Yangasso, BUT I was happier that I slept well. I think it is the first time I have really slept through the night without waking up in the good long while. I actually feel refreshed after sleeping. I don't know how it happened but I'm not going to complain.

Anyway, I ended up heading to the bus quartier, where all the major companies, and the not so major companies, leave for the interior of Mali. The two major companies, Bittar and Bani, had already sent their early morning buses so I decided to check out the cruddy transports and see what was up. The difficulty of using the lower-end transport is they do not have a set schedule and will only leave once the bus is full. My game was to find a transport that looked relatively full enough that I believed it would leave before 3pm (which is when the next Bittar bus was leaving). Low and behold, I found a bus who was promising to leave at 10:30am even if they weren't full. I waited a bit before I bought the ticket and around 10:00am things started looking good, so I bought a ticket... bad decision, Todd.

Around 11:30am, a group of Senegalese women who were in the same situation I was in decided to try and start a mini riot. They were yelling at everyone who worked for the bus company and a couple of people who were just sitting there. At one point, they almost collapsed the ticket booth with a couple people sitting inside... it was awesome. At that point, I started thinking I might have better luck with Bittar so I asked for my cash back. After the ticket taker refused, I told him I was going to go get a cop and we could discuss the situation together. He basically ignored me so I trotted off to go find any authority figure I could find. Keep in mind, I wasn't angry or upset like the ladies from Senegal... I was more or less bored and was passing the time. Anyway, it turns out there is a cop stationed near all the bus stations and when I walked in he took notes and then told me I needed a convocation. For anyone that speaks french, I still haven't figured out the exact meaning of the word, but it acted as an official writ from the police! So I wandered back to the bus and told the guys I had a convocation and the cop wanted to speak with them. I'm not joking around, they turned the bus on and we left in about 10 minutes. I keep wishing I knew that trick when I was here as a volunteer. Cripes that was great!

Anyway, I ended up sitting next to an English couple travelling through West Africa. They were pretty cool. Both teachers outside of London. I did a terrible job of telling them where Carolyn, my sister, lives and I did an equally terrible job of understanding where in the city they lived. They spoke French just about as well as Malians speak English, but they got things done. I was impressed. They just bowl through this country and don't look back.

So after my long journey up to the Segou region, I finally got close to Yangasso and it was pouring down rain and dark. I made the last minute decision to continue onto San and return to Yangasso in the morning. The idea of seeing everyone for the first time (since no one knows I am coming back) and getting my stuff settled during a monsoon didn't sound too inviting.

I made it up to the Peace Corps transit house in San around 9:30pm and plopped my stuff down. Sekou Coulibaly, the guardian, was there and was pretty surprised to see me. We spent roughly five minutes greeting eachother and saying "a kerra fami" until I noticed he was sporting a mohawk (it was dark and the hair had grown in a bit). Before I left the Peace Corps in 2005, I finally convinced Coulibaly to let me give him a mohawk. It's a pretty weird haircut to have in Mali, but I had told him about Mr. T and Glenn Plake so he went for it. I'm psyched he still keeps it up. **For Peace Corps folks: Coulibaly still has the cycle of growing his hair out and treating it with chemical straightener and then cuts it down... but now he cuts it down to the mohawk. He says it scares people.

There were also a couple volunteers there and we talked for a while. It was scary how comfortable it was to come back to San. It looks the same, just with a bit more dirt and grime, and the conversations with the PCVs was strikingly similar. We hung out and talked about the worthiness of Peace Corps development work, Peace Corps site selection process (or lack thereof) and food in America.

I also found a bunch of the books I read in Peace Corps with my stamp in it. I thought that was great.

All right, tommorow onto Yangasso.

What has changed?

There are more motorcycles for sure. They have a new model called a Power-K that looks like a suped up moped (except it isn't really suped up) and they have Orange mobile phone service (ikatel got bought out).

What is different?

Not that much... example, for all you Mali folk; The unfinished building next to the old bridge, the one with the crane above it that NEVER moved while you were in country... it still has not moved.

One more time, I'm back in Dakar and finally in front of a computer again. I thinkwhen I was planning this trip, I forgot how hard it actually is to deal with the internet in West Africa. Frustratingly slow internet, aged computers, keyboards and mice that don't work and then add on everything is in french... I feel like I'm using one of those first Apple IIEs from the 80s. It literally took me 15 minutes to get to this point in my writing, which is the only reason I am in front of a computer screen.

Anyway, as I said, the trip is winding down and we are coming full circle back in the capital. About 4 weeks ago, we touched down and dropped our bags in the Hotel Oceanic. Most of the kids have since told Laura and I they were nervous and thought the place was a dump. Today when we checked in, they couldn't wait to be in the A/C and have a real shower. On their first full day in Senegal, we took them down to the market where they were bombarded by vendors trying to sell them things they didn't want. Our students ended up with things in their hands and were pulled into shops without understanding what was going on. Today, walking around Dakar was a different story... We were a group of 16 westerners walking through the busy streets of Dakar. We are prime targets for people selling statues and mud cloth, but our students weren't harrassed and no vendors spent extra time trying to get them to buy anything. It was pretty neat to see. Whether or not these kids had fun (which I know they did), they have changed over the course of this month. It's interesting to have an experience like this, which is not unlike my experience in Mali, but watch someone else over that period of time. I'm fasinated to see them communicate in their own broken french (not unlike me!) but to communicate non-the-less. They aren't whining as much anymore... they know the deal and they will figure things out.

This is definitely me getting pre-nostalgia, so it is not a full picture of this trip, but it is something real and important.

As for me, I am starting to try and digest and make sense of my time here. I can say quickly and easily, I'm tired. I have been "on" for the last 4 weeks straight. Sometimes that meant I didn't get to sleep a full night for 4 days and had to be in the hospital, and most of the time that meant I was asked questions and had to make decisions at a moments notice. It was a blast, but being a parent for 14 kids is a handful.

Later folks,

TW

Not surprising, but it's pretty true. Wolof is the language of choice around here.

I have the important phrases down though...

lege lege = right now (direct; now now)

tootie tootie = slowly (direct; little little)

I am currently in Saint Louis, Senegal. I highly recommend you look some info about the city. It is beautiful here. The ocean is a great temperature and this place has a cool colonial feel. I think I could stand spending some time here (Don't worry Mom and Dad, I'm not looking for any jobs).

This first week with the students has been pretty fun. We arrived in Dakar last Friday... West Africa is in full effect. I stepped off of the plane and onto the tarmac to a hot breeze and the smell of trash burning somewhere off in the distance. Dakar feels a lot like Bamako, but a bit more Western. People are just a little more in tune to Western culture and a bit more connected to the outside world.

The next day, we headed out to chage some money and get our things together to head up to the north where we'll be spening most of the month.

The kids are great... There are 14 kids and they range from rising sophomores to rising seniors. They're from all around the US... as far as California and as close as DC. There is even a student who goes to NCS, which is the sister school to Saint Albans. After the kids there is one other leader, Laura, who is great.

On Sunday, we took a private bus ride up to n'diawdoune, which is about 4 hours from Dakar and about 20 minutes north of Saint Louis. It's a very well put together community and perfect for a community service trip of this sort.

We are staying at the local school and sleeping on the classroom floor. We have mattresses and mosquito nets and then we have a couple local women cooking for us. They will make anything from local dishes (yassa and maffe) to derranged versions of American food (something ressembling an egg sandwich or spaghetti with boiled eggs all over it).

While the conditions seem weird, they are great relative to the Peace Corps. We have purified water coming out of a faucet, electricity, mobile phone connection and ice. It is sort of like a West African heaven.

I know the students would not agree with me, but that's OK, this is their first time over here... and I keep reminding myself what I was like for my first week in Yangasso. In case you have forgotten or I have never told you... I was basically insane for the first week. I felt terrible everyday and had no one to communicate with. I would sit in my hammock and talk to myself about how ridiculous it was for me to be living in Mali without being able to speak Bambara.

Anyway... I need to get back to the kids. We are all currently sitting in a cyber cafe and they need help to find the @ symbol on these french keyboards and someone's shoes just fell apart, apparently. I just became a parent for 14 kids.

Sorry... No photos yet because these computers are so slow.

Later folks,

Todd

Hey all, I am transcribing this over my telephone and testing to see if this works. So, I'm actually speaking into my phone and it's going to transcribe onto my blog. If this works, it will be read and I think really you will be able to listen to what I'm saying right now. Wild. All right, let's find out. listen

So I'm in London for the holiday, visiting my sister and Matt. I'm staying in the Hyatt Andaz with my mother and step-father, Alan.

It's nice to be here... it's a bit strange rolling into a bustling city for the holiday. There is a different energy about everyone has they hurry to finish their Christmas shopping and get ready for the loads of food everyone is about to eat. What has been particularly interesting or weird is the area where we are staying is the same general area where I hung out 7 years ago when I visited London during my junior year abroad. The Hyatt is literally on top of the Liverpool Street tube station which I used in order to get anywhere I was going the first time I was here. Weird.

Anyway... I intend to put more interesting information than a small coincidence into this entry.

I went to the British War Cabinet Room which is located two blocks from Westminster. I don't think there are words that can adequately convey how great of a museum this is (and the museum website does a poor job of making it look cool). During the Battle of Britain and specifically the blitz on London, Churchill and his cabinet were forced to move into an underground bunker and manage the war from there. The bunker was reinforced with 6 feet of concrete and steal girders over the ceiling which was to protect against the German bombing raids. What makes the museum so amazing is when they vacated the premise near the end of the war... many of the rooms were untouched until the 1970s when it was decided to create the museum. Many of the original war maps are still up on the walls which chart the supply ships in the Atlantic. The detail is incredible, which includes one of the officer's sugar ration for his tea which was hidden in his desk all those long years.

The feeling of walking through the rooms and with so much of the area either untouched or restored to it's original state is gives a true feeling of what it must have been like. There were so many important decisions made down there and made under such strange physical conditions. I can't talk enough about it.

The only lame part of the museum is the introduction of wax figures... I know it brings the spaces to life for some people, but I think it's weird.

Oh yeah, while Churchill was PM all of his telephone conversations were transcribed by a personal secretary who was interviewed for the Churchill Museum. Apparently, Winston would end all his conversations by saying "KBO." Perplexed, the secretary kept on transcribing that each time, until someone told her it was best not to record that bit of info. Churchill was telling his ministers Keep Buggering On.

KBO

The iphone

I don't suppose anyone really cares, but this is my list of the problems with the iphone. It is by no means complete, but it is my list of things I wish Apple would add in terms of functionality. I think the iphone rocks by the way...

No multiple senders in SMS: It's only possible to text one number at a time. Most phones have the ability to add multiple numbers and text all of them at once. Not so with the iphone.Sideways keyboards: In some of the iphone applications there is a sideways keyboard, but the core applications can not rotate and make use of the wider keyboard.

No pix messages: I think this is insane. There is no way to receive pix messages on the phone. In order to access a picture sent from another phone, one has to log into the Cingular website for picture messages. They give you an alphanumeric username and password that is difficult at best.

No select, copy, paste nor cut for text: This is pretty standard on most other PDAs. There is no functionality to select then manipulate text. It would be huge for the iphone to be able to copy text from a text or an email and then paste it into a safari text box or contacts.

No upload/download of images: You can neither upload an image from the iphone to a website (craigslist or a personal website) nor can you save an image from a website and bring it down to your iphone. Again, I think it's insane not to have this type of functionality.

No video capability: I can understand the iphone is still in the first generation and perhaps they had to leave certain capabilities out, but this is pretty standard on PDAs now-a-days.

Call contact from SMS: This is a nit-picky detail, but it is still kind of annoying. SMS messages for one contact all appear on the same screen in a chat-like format, which is awesome. The only issue I have is the "call contact" button is at the top of the screen and is not easily accessible if there are a lot of texts. Like I said, it is a small detail, but it would be great to see it fixed.

No print capability: This is another function that would be great to have, but it isn't necessary. With all the wireless printing that is out there, it would be great to be able to print from the iphone directly to a printer.

***UNFINISHED***

In an attempt to collect information together, which I consistently forget, I am going to create and update this post with the things that (A) got me through Peace Corps and (B) would have made my life much easier.

You will have to keep in mind that I was a PCV in Mali, which is in West Africa, this list is a result of my experience there. Some of these items might not work for you, but I think they would work for a great number of volunteer headed to different countries. Take this list for what it is worth...

Please comment and correct my stupidity, and let me know if any of my links are bogus.

STUFF/Technology

This list is a collection of ideas and items which you should think about. Not everything will work and some of it is expensive, but you should know these options are out there. With a bit of planning, you could have a system that will work and work well. Not everything needs to be bought and brought over... believe me, you want to keep your bag as small as you possibly can.

Bug Tent: I had an MSR tent that I loved, which is no longer in productions, but there are a couple out there which many people use and love, which I have listed. They aren't necessary and it will depend on where you are posted. I waited until I was at my site and got one (someone was going home and they picked it up for me). It's a waste of money if you end up in a city but it might be essential if you end up in a village.ipod: It's a no brainer, and I know you have already thought of it, but I might have some additions which could truly enhance your experience... First off, don't worry about power (I have posted info about that) and buy the biggest ipod you can get. There is a lot of down time and the more music/podcasts you have the better.

If I was going now, I would go to Itunes U and download as many full courses as I could. I listen to them now... with the amount of courses available and the amount of unstructured time in Peace Corps, you could get another BA. There are courses that relate directly to development work, but get all the courses you can. Some which might not seem interesting now, might save your life during the rainy season when you are stuck in your house.

I would go to All Songs Considered and download their entire concert archive. There is a ton of excellent known and unknown music there.

Buy a car charger for the ipod (check out this post)Battery-operated tooth-brush: What can I say... my Dad is an orthodontist and he would say, "Your teeth are the best friends you've got." It has to use AA batteries.Polarized sunglasses: The sun is harsh on the African continent, and you are about to live there for two years. They will get scuffed (look for a pair with removable lenses), but it is worth it. If you don't think so, you probably don't think sun screen is a good idea either... and that is evolution at work.

Car battery: This is the power option of the professional PCV. You will need to wait until you have been to your site and find out if anyone in town/village has a industrial-sized solar panel or generator. They will recharge the battery for almost no money (I think I paid 25 cents a charge). You will have to create a system to connect your stuff to the battery (which I go into on another post), but it is well worth it.Pocket knife: There is such a wide range of knives out there, and I believe a knife has to fit the individual, which makes it tough to give a good recommendation. With that proviso, I like knives that are versatile (straight and serrated edges), fit in your pocket and can be opened with one hand (which for me is an in-line lock).

Mini Nalgene bottles: It doesn't have to be nalgene, but the small screw-top bottles can be perfect for sun screen, shampoo, spices, powders... you name it.Digital or non-digital thermometerTent spray

Baseball and baseball glove

Duct tapeCarabeeners

Silk floss

Bar of soap

Tubes for bicycle

Mini speakers for ipod: Make sure it uses batteries and the batteries can be found in-country

Key chain pill holder

Micro lightsSeeds

Food

Gatorade Powder: It's awesome. Some Peace Corps Medical offices will carry it, but having it sent is pretty essential. It can be found in most supermarkets, but should be removed from its container and put in a zip-lock bag... It saves space and the zip-lock can be re-used (or at the very least, given to your host family... they will love it)Kraft/Annies Mac 'n Cheese packets: Forget the macaroni, which can be found in most of the developing world, but that cheesy-powder goodness will change your life.Taco Seasoning: It sounds weird, but it is a great all-around spice. I made a mean Taco Mac 'n Cheese during my time (email me if you really want to know how to use this spice).Block of Velveeta Cheese: They are like roaches or twinkies... they'll survive anythingPre-cooked bacon (I didn't know this existed until PC)Cereal: I was partial to Lucky Charms.Beef Jerky: I can't begin to talk about my feelings for beef jerky. Love just doesn't capture the feeling.Toll house chocolate chips: They melted, but who gives a damn? They taste great!Cake/brownie mix: The kind that you just have to add water and bake is so easy and it means the PCV in country doesn't have to go find difficult or expensive ingredients.Pizza dough mix: I loved this stuffTwizzlersTaco bell sauce packetsTaco seasoning packetsPancake mixParmesan cheeseGranola barsCliff barsPepperoniPudding mixMountain house dried mealsBacos

Terrible Ideas List

Mini-solar chargers: Arghh... I bought one, and it never worked. Easily one of the most frustrating purchases, because it SHOULD work so well in West Africa... if there is an abundance of anything in that area of the world, it is the sun. Since I'm a scientist (and by that I mean I am not one at all), I have determined the heat from the sun warms the batteries, making them unable to hold a charge. Note: I would appreciate someone with some scientific authority to comment on this because it is true, but I have no clue why.Ex-officio Gear: This is inclusive of all the poly-synthetic, quick-dry, breathable, wrinkle-free, zip-off crap... Not worth it. All your clothes will get ruined by harsh washing techniques, sand and the sun. Buy clothes when you get to country. There are a TON of options. Note: I did have a pair of zip-off pants, and they were stupid.

Nice Watches: The sand will penetrate that water-proof or water resistant seal, and you will cry. Buy a cheap watch in the states or even in country. What you will find out, in-country, is that time doesn't really matter (be careful... I feel an extestential moment coming on).Toilet Paper: Your hand will touch your rear-end, and you can deal with that. If you can't, then buy toilet paper in-country. It is a waste of space to pack it in your bag.

The idea here is to use a battery as a power source for your ipods, mp3 players and other devices. All you need a car battery, a 12v power outlet with battery clips and your car adapter for your device (whichever that might be). It's a pretty simple system, but incredibly important not to mess up the positive and negative ends... it will fry your device. Once that happens, you are sunk.

Attach the battery and the power outlet (Again... be attentive to the + and - ends) Attach your device's car adapter to the power outlet Attach your device to the car adapter. If you screwed up the ends... you will know very quickly. If you hear a pop and see a spark... whoops.

Diagram to follow...

It was really this website that got me to post. It just made me feel good.

Well, Charley spent a very exciting weekend at Chez Todd. I don't have any cat food, so I just started cracking open tuna cans for him. He immediately fell in love with me (no surprise). He was pretty thin and was very hungry, so I assumed he was a lost cat. My neighbor told me he had seen Charley running around outside a year ago when he moved in. I felt real bad, and started trying to find his owners or a new home.

I came close a couple times, but nothing stuck. There was a really nice lady who wanted him, but couldn't because she had other pets and they would have needed to quarantine Charley for a week or so...

Anyway, his owner finally gave me a call after he saw one of the signs I put up.

I planned this whole conversation thinking the owner had mistreated him in some way... I was going to tell him the vet (who he did actually see) told me to call animal control if I ever found the owner (which he didn't say, but I think he would back me up). Anyway, I walked up to the door with the cat and instead of a broken down place with a terrible owner... I found an elderly couple who's cat has been diagnosed with a thyroid condition and periodically runs away when he has to take his medicine.

I happily returned Charley... Toby to his owners.

A cat just walked into my apartment. I'm pretty sure he's lost.

I'm calling him Charley.