(photo from flickr)

Picture this situation: You are driving down a two-lane road when you come upon the inevitable semi-truck going *gasp* under the speed limit. This is, of course, unacceptable. This truck should be passed at the first opportunity, but any driver who has been in this situation before knows that this is risky business, even under ideal conditions. Semis are wide and long, preventing visibility, and taking more time to pass. Typically, the way a driver in America would look for an opportunity is to sneak out slightly into the oncoming lane and either go for it, or jerk back into their lane to avoid getting hit by an oncoming vehicle. Sounds dangerous! But there is another way...

In Namibia, almost all roads are only two lanes, but they have developed a useful way to get the cars passing the trucks efficiently. It's simple: when the truck driver sees that the road ahead is clear, he puts on his right flasher (they drive on the left) to signal any cars behind him that the coast is clear. I'm guessing it's safer too, since the truck has a clear view of the oncoming lane, and I'm guessing a professional truck driver can make a safer estimate of whether you're going to make it past him.

I'm guessing this might be something that happens in other countries besides Namibia, and maybe even other parts of the states, but it sure doesn't happen in the northeast.

Which of these two animals are you more frightened of? On the left we have the black mamba, one of the deadliest snakes in the world. On the right, we have a chameleon. Both of these creatures inhabited the general area of the youth center where I taught in Divundu, Namibia. (No fully grown mambas, though, thank goodness)

If you thought this one through logically, you would probably give the incredibly poisonous black mamba a wide berth, whereas a harmless chameleon in the wild might be a subject of casual observation and interest.

Now for the typical Mbukushu reaction to these creatures.

All Snakes: Standing Kill Orders

The immediate reaction to any snake is to engage it in mortal combat and destroy it. The only acceptable reason to disengage combat is to search for a weapon (stick, rock, possibly a .22 rifle) or reinforcements. It doesn't matter that this snake is capable of leaping past your piddling defenses to bite your face off and inject enough neurotoxin to kill you 10 times over. People will gather round to watch the show and offer advice on how to deal with the snake (the stick vs. rock debate is timeless)

Chameleons: Widespread Panic

Upon sighting a chameleon, most Mbukushu will run away and get some help to set up an exclusion zone so that no one accidentally bumps into this fearsome beast. The bravest villagers are called upon to monitor the progress of the chameleon from a safe distance until it disappears into the foreboding tall grass from whence it came. People maintain vigilance for hours afterwards lest the soul-eating demon spawn return on its dark shambling.

Okay, so, slight exaggeration on the chameleons, but seriously, I'm not sure why these people are so afraid of them. Something to do with witchcraft? Googly eyes? Color changes? I have no idea, but it's not logic, and it's tons of fun for someone who's willing to pick one up and chase people with it.

So I got to Taiwan just in time for the final day of the Taipei Games Show hosted in the World Trade Center complex. As I understand it, this show is pretty modest compared to Tokyo Games Show, but still sports the ridiculous exhibits the rabid fans have come to expect. This time around, I was most impressed with the racing hardware. They basically built some 1:1 scale cars inside the building (at least I didn't spot a door they could've fit through) and wired them up with screens and such so people could get the complete video game driving experience. Funs!

The other thing that impressed me but isn't pictured here was a VR experience box thingy where you could get a rifle and wherever you pointed it, a projector would track your motion and display the game in front of the barrel. More realistic than mouse aiming, but your arm gets tired.

So, it was really hard to update the blog from Namibia and I pretty much gave up after a couple months. Plus I was pretty lazy. You just kind of fall into a different rhythm there. A rhythm that allows people to procrastinate indefinitely. But now I'm out! ... and back to the rush of the workaday world. Desires to tear off my clothes and live an idyllic life in the forest with the animals and various parasitic life forms aside, I will now try to update my blog somewhat more often than once a year. Some of it will be remembering events and posting pictures of my experiences in Namibia. Other times, I'll talk about what's happening with me now (for example, I'm in Taiwan right now for a month). In extreme cases I may offer an opinion on a subject if I think I'm particularly qualified, but I promise that won't happen too often.

Save a goat from drowning in an open septic tank, of course. I took a shower afterward. The photo is courtesy of my roommate, and it's a little blurry because he was laughing so much. All in a day's work for an IT volunteer in Namibia!

Teach some Hambukushu ladies how to crimp network cables for a rural

youth center's computer lab, of course. Yes, I fully intend to introduce

Counterstrike to the African youth.

So, most Namibians have Christian names because they actually have lots of trouble pronouncing names of people from other tribes or other language groups. These Namibian Christian names are sort of pseudo-Roman, Latin-esq, and straight out of fantasy novels. I may have to use one of these next time I'm playing D&D. Here's a sampling:

Male Names:
Eusebius
Faustinus
Augustinus
Esegiel
Adriano
Kosmas
Amadeus
Vallentines
Pascalius
Bonifatius
Romanus
Thimotheus
Athanasius

Female Names:
Venansia
Sandrina
Engelbertha
Fransina
Therisia
Herlinde
Eufransia
Sabina
Rosalia
Letticia
Leocadia
Gergensia
Constantia
Eleotheria
Rheinhilde

For the 2nd least densely populated country in the world, roads are very easy to come by in Namibia. There are well maintained, paved roads between every major population center in the country.`Cars and transportation, however, are another story, especially for the Peace Corps Volunteer (beggar). Here's a rundown on the options:

Rent a Car
This is easy to do in Windhoek and is the most convenient option for anyone traveling in Namibia. Of course, you may need to drive manual, and you will have to drive on the left side of the road. This option is not possible for Peace Corps Volunteers, since they're not allowed to drive, and I suspect it wouldn't be in our price range anyway.

The Intercape
is a humongous box-shaped transport vehicle otherwise known as a bus. Besides some other ill-run services which are poorly advertised and impossible to contact, the Intercape is the only bus service in Namibia, and its only function is to ferry tourists to hotspots in Zimbabwe, Namibia, and South Africa. This pretty much means a cushy ride between Cape Town and Victoria Falls or any of the places in between, meaning Keetmanshoop, Windhoek, Otjiwarongo, Rundu, Katima Mulilo and any podunk village in between. I believe the Cape runs to Swakopmund as well. Tickets must be booked ahead of time. If you don't do this physically at their office in Windhoek, then the process is straight out of a time before credit cards and e-tickets, when dinosaurs roamed the earth. First, you have to call and make a booking. Then, you have to go to your local Bank Windhoek branch (mine is located conveniently 200 kilometers away) and wire the money to them. After that, they will fax you a ticket. An e-commerce consultant could go far in this country. As usual, this option is too expensive for regular use by a Peace Corps volunteer.

Combis (Kombis?)
are small vans piloted by entrepreneurial Namibians. They tend to congregate in designated areas of town, usually a gas station or an appropriately sized patch of dirt. I'm told you actually need a license to operate a combi and that there exists a union, but looking at a group of combis, you would never know it. There are no signs, and the combis themselves generally lack any markings identifying a company or phone number. A combi area essentially looks like a bunch of guys standing around their vans waiting for something. While the prices of rides between destinations are set and non-negotiable, the timing of that ride generally depends on fate. A combi leaves when the combi is full. A combi can semi-comfortably seat around 9 people. A full combi typically consists of 11 fat ladies, their screaming children, and myself. In their defense, however, combis are fast, cheap(er), and reliable, insofar as you will get to your destination sometime on the day you leave. You can also get the phone numbers of combi drivers and if you have a large enough group to make it worth their while, you can usually get them to ferry you and your companions almost anywhere you want. A viable option for the volunteer in a hurry.

Hiking
does not mean strapping on your boots and walking the 800km to your destination. If a Namibian says they are hiking, they mean hitchhiking. The process is simple enough. Walk out to a road, wait for a car, then wave it down. There are some hand signals you can use to expedite the process. The height of your hand is a general indicator of the distance you wish to travel, and if there's a turn coming up, you should indicate which direction you will want to go in. Surprisingly, the prices for hikes between destinations seem to be standard, as if all Namibians had a meeting to decide them. Hike prices are lower than combi prices, the rides are usually infinitely more comfortable, and Peace Corps Volunteers often get lucky and receive free hikes from wealthier curious people in nice cars (a foreigner hiking is a very rare sight). Obviously, hiking can be risky business. No, not from a security standpoint - the hitchhiking culture is so ingrained that crimes related to hiking are very rare. The problem is simply that you might not get a hike on the day you want one, or your hike might not be able to take you all the way to your destination. Fortunately for volunteers, there is always a friend nearby willing to let a stranded colleague couch surf for a night. I've heard of Peace Corps Volunteers who travel internationally this way, staying for free with other volunteers, even those outside of their own country. Inexpensive, and makes for excellent stories.

So, basically, it's a wooden box with a double-paned glass window on top, a reflective lid, and a black tin interior. But there is some science to its construction and operation. The angle of the glass window should be adjusted depending on the global latitude that the oven is to be used at. When using the oven, it should be facing North if you're in the Southern Hemisphere, and South if you're in the Northern Hemisphere, so it can catch as much sunlight as possible. The angle of the reflective lid should also be such that it will reflect as much light into the oven as possible. Also, only black colored cookware must be used in the oven.

Ok, that's all well and good, but the most important thing about this cheap, light, environmentally friendly device is that everything that comes out of it is DELICIOUS. It generally takes the oven 4 - 6 hours to cook something, so you can only really cook one thing per day, per oven - usually dinner. However, since the solar oven cooks so slowly and evenly, meat and fresh veggies come out tender and tasty - the kind of tender and tasty you can only get by cooking something for 6 hours. Bread and cakes don't rise as much in a solar oven, but they somehow retain more flavor. Since the physics of cooking something using solar energy is different from using fire or an electrical heating element, it is literally impossible to burn food in a solar oven. This means, you just have to pile your ingredients into a pot, set up the oven, put the pot in, then come back when everything is done. Cooking doesn't get much easier than that, and the results are really spectacular. Ron Popeil needs to start selling these in infomercials right away, because solar ovens really are a miracle appliance. Plus, how awesome is "Solar Stew" as a name for a recipe?

Of course the one disadvantage is that you need the Sun. Unfortunately, it's the rainy season right now in Kavango, so the solar oven hasn't seen as much use as I'd like. The rest of Namibia is pretty much desert, however, so I bet my fellow volunteers are getting plenty of use out of theirs. Lucky skunks.

So this is what it looks like when I have the braids taken out. Awesome. It went back to normal after I showered, though. Nuts.

In Namibia they have something called Chakalaka. No, it's not some sort of Pagan god, or even a heavy metal band (although it would be a fantastic name for one).

Chakalaka is, put simply, spicy deliciousness in a can. Ingredients are as follows: Tomatoes, Carrots, Onions, Sunflower Oil, Cabbage, Green Bell Peppers, Spices, Salt, Chillies, Garlic, Corn Starch, Acidifier, and Natural Coloring. This seemingly innocuous blend of vegetables and spices produces flavors that can enhance virtually any meal. Koreans have kimchee. Mexicans have salsa. Indians have curry. Namibians have chakalaka. It goes on everything, because it's just that good.

Since chakalaka has a salsa-type consistency, it is very versatile in the Namibian kitchen. Add to pasta sauce for that extra kick. Put on top of eggs for that extra kick. Use as a meat marinade for that extra kick. Indeed, because other Namibian foods tend to be bland, that extra kick is often necessary. To attempt to use words to describe its flavor would be utter folly. Its heat comes from chilies, but that is the only aspect of chakalaka that I can convey accurately.

Of the many languages in Namibia, I am learning one called Thimbukushu. Thimbukushu is a Bantu language, making it one of the most complex on Earth. The Bantu languages I've heard so far (Otjiherero, Rukwangali) all have what's called a concord system. Basically all nouns are divided into semantic classes (a noun class for humans, a different noun class for animals, another noun class for household objects, etc). In Thimbukushu, there are 10 different noun classes, plus a special class for the gerund and infinitive form of verbs (the gerund and infinitive are identical in Thimbukushu). Depending on what class a noun is in, it will have different prefixes for singular and plural forms (for example, in the human class: maguva is one person, haguva is people). That much is simple enough, but the different classes also conjugate differently with verbs and adjectives. Basically, verbs and adjectives will adopt different prefixes depending on the class of the noun that they are operating on. I believe the different classes also have different possessive particles, also. I would give more specifics, but I'm still memorizing all the classes, and their concords, as the particles used in conjugation are called. Fortunately there are no exceptions to the rules, and all nouns can be put into classes based on their prefix (except for words borrowed from other languages).

However, as difficult as the system may seem, it has some interesting linguistic potential. For example, if you want to personify an animal, you can use the human noun class prefixes with that animal instead of the normal prefixes.

A really neat thing about Bantu languages is that they are phonetically very similar to Japanese. Actually, Japanese is a phonetic subset of Bantu languages, which means that Bantu language speakers make all the sounds that Japanese people make, and a few more (like nasals). I really like the way Thimbukushu sounds. The language flows well, and has a soothing tone. It also lacks any guttural sounds, which I am not a fan of.

In Namibia, the most common chain of supermarkets is named Spar. You can easily spot a Spar by its logo, an evergreen inside a circle. Despite the contradiction of using a tree that doesn't exist in Namibia, Spar's green beacon can be found in all major towns, like a herald of air conditioning, cold drinks, and western food.

In case you haven't noticed, Spar is one of my favorite getaways in Namibia. They are pretty much comparable to a good Shop Rite or small Wegman's in the States, since they all have some ready-made foods available in addition to normal groceries, and sometimes, you just need a Coke. Peace Corps Trainees will often congregate in Spar, resulting in an event known as a Sparty. However, Spar must be used with care. A PCV that attends Spartys too often will quickly run out of money.

In Namibia, cities are divided into sections called Town, and Locations. In a city, Town refers to the area with established businesses, chain stores, hotels, and modern homes. If a person lives in Town, it's pretty much a guarantee that they're wealthy and connected. In a single city, there's only one Town area.

Locations are the areas outside of town where blacks were forced to live during apartheid (now there are also many blacks living in Towns). A Location is laid out similar to a suburb in the US, but the housing is mostly cement and corrugated tin, with some all-concrete buildings used for small businesses. Some people may also run small businesses out of their homes. In the Locations I've seen, the roads are mostly packed dirt, which is actually good because children are almost always playing soccer in the street and the dirt forces cars to drive slow. I hesitate to compare Locations to ghettos or tenements, because all Location houses have electricity, running water, and modern conveniences (I've yet to meet a Namibian who doesn't own a TV), but people in Locations are undoubtedly poorer than those in Town. However, Locations are complete communities with schools, parks, and churches. I can't speak for all cities, but in Omaruru, the Locations are safe at all times of day. The worst problem in Locations I've seen has been public drunkenness. In each city there can also be multiple Locations, always segregated by ethnic group (I'll talk about the ethnic groups in another post), although it doesn't seem to generate any great animosity if a member of an ethnic group settles in a different group's Location.

Towns are generally nice and comfortable. Stores have air conditioning; there are roads, sidewalks, and plants; buildings are very clean. As an American, Towns feel familiar to me. But Locations are way more interesting. In the Location in Omaruru, children are play together in the streets (when school's out), and people are go about their business or visit each other. In Location, it's ok to just talk to people and make friends, or drop by the houses of people I know for quick visits. Every house and business also has a lot of individual character. In Omaruru, one man built a white two story castle on his land in the Location. While that example is extreme, it gives a good sense of the diversity and fun one can find in Locations.

I think the picture pretty much says it all.

My host sister did it with hair extensions. It was painful but I think it looks awesome. Feel free to compare me with The Predator.

In Namibia, the main roads are very well maintained and would feel

normal to any US driver, excepting the fact that they drive on the left.

Even smaller gravel and sand roads are well packed down and safe. And

since Namibia is so sparsely populated, there are hardly any other

drivers to worry about. The primary road hazards of Namibia are the

various forms of wildlife that jump or run in front of vehicles. As in

the states, prime time for wildlife is dawn and dusk.Kudus are agile, deer-like, moose-sized animals with long curly horns.

For some reason, it is the kudu's instinct to jump in front of, or into

moving vehicles. Combined with their size, this makes them the number

one wildlife road hazard in Namibia. Crashes with Kudu are so common in

Namibia that almost every Namibian I've spoken to has had this

experience. I have been in a car which only just clipped a kudu's tail,

thanks to our Peace Corps driver's reactions and 6th sense for detecting

kudu.Oryx are slightly smaller than kudu but look very similar. Their main

distinguishing feature is perfectly straight horns. I was told it is

their instinct is to jump parallel with moving vehicles so it is more

rare for them to be involved in accidents, but their size still makes

them a danger.Springbok are about the size of deer in the US, and look very similar to

deer, except that the males don't have the distinctive antlers of bucks

in the US. I have yet to get a good look at one, and it seems like they

are very wary of moving vehicles. That said, I ate springbok meat for

dinner today so they must get hit once in a while.Warthogs in Namibia are about the size of large cats, but they are often

grazing by the side of the road in groups. I'm told they're hit

relatively often when they wander into the road. Because of their small

size, they're not a major hazard, although I'm told that they have more

mass than it seems.Dik dik look exactly like deer sans antlers except they are the size of

a large dog. Yes, they are absurdly cute and the subject of many

inappropriate jokes. Unfortunately, they share instincts with the kudu

and are hit often. Due to their size and mass, they are not a major

hazard. They also fit conveniently into a large plastic bag (pictured)

and are delicious.In Namibia, it is technically against conservation laws to personally

transport, prepare, and eat roadkill. People are supposed to report

roadkill so it can be donated. I can understand that this is to prevent

people from trying to hit things for a free meal, but the culture of

Namibia seems to be that it is acceptable to keep roadkill as long as

you share it. Practically speaking, nobody would purposely hit even a

dik dik because of possible damage to the vehicle.

Namibians have a particular handshake which is used across the entire

country. The handshake begins normally with a single firm pump, then the

thumbs are hooked with the fingers wrapped around the other person's

wrist. Finally, the handshake is finished by bringing the fingers back

down into the normal handshake position and giving another firm pump.

Always use the right hand to shake.After the handshake has ended, some people will continue to hold your

hand for a while as the conversation continues. This is relatively

common in Namibia. Note that this handshake appears to be for Namibians.

If you attempt this handshake and you are obviously not Namibian, they

may hold their hand still during the wrist-grab phase. However, if a

Namibian initiates this style of handshake with you, it is a sign that

they accept you and are comfortable with you. An additional sign of

respect I have observed in the Kavango region is to touch your right arm

just under the elbow with the fingers on your left hand.

Just a test post for posting by email. If I can do it this way, I'll

be able to update more often!

Just finished with staging and tomorrow, we get our shots ("the pincushion treatment") and fly to Johannesburg for an overnight layover before flying to Windhoek.

Staging was tons of fun, and facilitated meeting and getting to know all (70!) of my fellow volunteers as well as learning about various Peace Corps policies. There was also a lot of reinforcing different approaches to being a successful volunteer such as being flexible and patient and being aware of one's own culture to start understanding others. I was generalizing there, but we did have some specific, practical case studies and people were asking lots of good questions, which were answered honestly to the best of the staging peoples' abilities.

There were summer camp style group activities and I usually take those kinds of things with a grain of salt but the staging people really tied it in well with what they were trying to get across to us.

Good start! Gotta be up at 4:30 tomorrow -_-

Who is that mysterious, handsome man? C'est moi, of course. I am wearing my new prescription shades from Opticus, a darn fine lens crafting service, where I had to call and talk to an actual person, who was genuinely knowledgeable and concerned about getting me what I needed. So, besides making me look like a cliched movie villain, what do these specs do for me? Well, my poor computer-scientisty eyes are quite sensitive to light and Namibia is mostly desert and steppes, so I went as dark as possible and got side shields for even more protection. The frame model is by Mountain Shades and is called Zermat.

As for the camera, it is a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ8 and I have been very happy with it these past few days. It's packed with the features you expect from an SLR-like camera, but the menus are easy to navigate, and there are quick buttons for all the common options. It's 7 MP, which is plenty, IMO, and image quality is excellent. 12X zoom, light, sturdy, image stabilization - I could go on, but anyway, good camera. Hope I get plenty of chances to be a shutterbug in Namibia.

Yup. For the Peace Corps. It's that country on the west coast of Africa, just northwest of South Africa. Angola's to the north, and Botswana's to the east.

If you want to know more, the Wikipedia article is great, but here are some fun facts:

Namibia is the 2nd least densely populated country in the world, after Mongolia. It is about twice the size of California, but only has a population of about 2 million.Most Namibians are Christians, and most of them are Lutherans! I'll fit right in.Namibia has a diverse ecology, with the south being mostly desert, a central plateau, and forests and grazelands in the north.Besides native languages, many Namibians also speak German, and Afrikaans.As for what I'll be doing, it should be something along the lines of teaching computer literacy in the 6th - 12th grades. I'm sure other things will follow (if retired Peace Corps volunteer stories are any indication), but that's the job description for now.

Edit - oh yeah, I leave October 29th so, still got some time in the states.

This blog has been created as a personal journal, but also as a way of letting people who know me see how I am doing. The primary reason this blog was started, is because I will soon be a Peace Corps Volunteer, and hopefully I will be able to document my experience for my friends and relatives.