Brooke and her mom just got back from 10 glorious days in Morocco. Here is a link to the photos:

http://picasaweb.google.com/joleen4

I'm going to be in Zinder here for a whole week I think! ahh! Usually I HATE doing that but I told the villagers when I left this morning that I’d be gone a week. At least I told them the MAX time I’d be gone so if I get done with stuff sooner then I’m going back early. No worries, guilt etc. good.

Mostly I think I’m going to take a few days here for some rest. I haven’t gotten to do that since a month or more ago. I went STRAIGHT out to the bush after my training the end of Feb. beginning of March. And then came in last week for less than 48 hours and didn’t have a moment to rest, it was rush rush.

Good thing is I had an AWESOME meeting with my ngo guy yesterday and we discussed all kinds of stuff. He is doing work with our local radio- which is up and running again and he already has a troupe arranged to do skits and etc on the radio so I found and gave him tons of skits that are both educational and funny- they serve as a MASS educational tool yaw know? I'm just coming to see how absolutely AMAZING radio is for a country like Niger. For so many countries in the world actually. It serves as school, news, communication, just everything. Plus he is going to interview me and Jon and give us lots of time to talk about whatever we want- Peace Corps, ideas on sustainability, cultural stuff whatever. I told him I was going to work on some shows then -ones that we Peace Corps folks would o ourselves. So yeah! Week from today is the interview and etc. so I’m got lots of work to do.

I finally started my health lessons with the women (and kids as it is). We did 3 small sessions so far on basic health- the 3 food groups and necessity of mixing food from each group. Funny- here it’s simplified into 3 groups and the fat and carbs are actually in the same group= as most folks here hardly get any fat, it’s just stuck in there with grains as an energy producing food, and sugar as well. Funny, telling people that sugar and oil will give them more strength!!

Well, that and I’m going to continue that same lesson in other locales around the village. I've started being a wandering teacher the last week, good thing is- some of the women seem to actually GET it- which is amazing. Most of the time, they hear you, repeat you, and then say it backwards to someone else, and I’m like "NO!!" shouting over them and its all chaos. That’s how "meetings" are here- kids running around- no one will sit, and be quiet, so basically I just approach any group I see under a tree or whoever and say, "hey look at these pictures I’ve got!" and everyone wants to see, and then I start explaining. Good thing is- by the 10th time I’ve explained, I’ve gotten good at it and can tell which kinds of words and phrases make sense to them. It’s a great way to improve your language and meeting skills.

That and we are going to do a training for young girls in the middle school- on education, health, hygiene, sex ed, aids, family planning, business generation, etc.- all kinds of stuff. It’ll be for 2-3 days and happen after morocco. My counterpart rep is so great. He even offered to arrange for me to stay in Zermou when we do the project so that I don’t have to run back and forth from Bankareta. We shall see how it all goes down. He and I are going to meet with his boss on Monday to discuss what aquadev (the ngo) can contribute. Those guys really are SUCH a blessing!!!!!

The fashion show I agreed to be in is tomorrow night, supposed to go and practice tonight so we shall see how this all goes down! lol.....

It’s a holiday here too! moulidi.- the prophet's birthday. There's an awesome celebration going on out east- I had planned to go but then the travel plans conflicted and I couldn't. Too bad- they told me (pcvs who went last year) that it was really awesome. They had a real live "shake" (religious scholar guy- it’s a title a MAJOR title for Muslim holy guys) out there, about an hour east. Muslims will make pilgrimages to see guys like this. there's drumming, and folks all dressed up and lots of praying and all sorts of stuff. Hopefully something will be going on here in Zinder as well, so I can still see it=) . Last year at this time it was my 2nd week in the village and it was at night, so I pretty much missed it. I couldn’t really hear any Hausa back then anyways. All I could get from villagers was that there was a holiday. hahahaha. Amazing how much easier the 2nd year is.

Well, I’m just blabbing and blabbing about work and Niger and what have you. It’s getting hot! Hot season is coming on I swear!! I am sweating and I’m not moving except for typing! That’s the true sign of hot season. You're in the shade, not moving, yet you are sweating. Ahhhh!!! Luckily, I’m much more ready for it this year...

Well, as I will have round the clock access to cellphone charging I’m going to just keep my phone on AALL the time so it will be a lot easier to get a hold of me. I know it’s been really hard lately.

talk to you soon!!

LOVE LOVE

BROOKE

I just prayed! It was an interesting experience. You see, its Ramadan right now here, and everyone around here got all dressed up to come together for a mass morning prayer. So of course I came and did the whole thing with them. It wasn’t too hard, I just knelt, bowed, put my head to the ground, etc., when they did. Never thought I’d end up doing that! But hey, I DO have a lot to be thankful for, especially the fact that this blasted month is almost OVER. Meaning: I won’t have to fast from 5am-6pm. Yes! FOOD! All I want to do when I return to Zinder next week is EAT! I’ve already got a market list going and a list of things I’m going to cook. The thing is – even at night here, it’s hard to eat a lot, because even though you’re hungry and thirsty all day, your stomach shrinks. So by the time you can eat, you feel really full way too fast. It sucks….Today is market day, though, so I am looking forward to yummy food for dinner tonight!! It’s hard – going to market on foot, dealing with the hordes of people, shopping, etc., and then walking back to the village while fasting. Ugh. At least this has scored major points with the villagers. They keep telling me I have a “lot of effort”. The Mai Gaii’s mother actually got really excited and said, “You and us, we’re the same!” So, it’s nice to know I am not doing it for nothing. I don’t really have to do it at all, but I think it’s better to. If they all can, and I’m living here, then I should, too.

So I’m sorry I haven’t written for awhile. You’d think this would have been the perfect time to write with no “real” work happening out here. (Most folks are too tired to do much). But I’ve been reading books and magazines like crazy and actually started some major re-organizing/decorating/renovations at home here. I don’t know how I got the energy for it! Mind over matter I suppose. By the time Paige gets here (!!!!) things are going to be looking a lot prettier !

Speaking of cooking, I’m buying big Hausa-style pots at the market today so we can start building cook stoves. Now that the rain is basically done I think. So that’ll be something to do in about 2 weeks. I’m scheduled to head back into Zinder on the 25th I think. I don’t feel like I’ve been out here at post all that long – 2.5 weeks or so. Ironic, considering its fasting time and it’s also “mini-hot season” right now. I feel like I’ve only been out a week maybe. Still – I’ve got to go into Zinder – just so I can eat and eat and eat. Yumm!!! I looked at my journal entry from a few days ago, and it was literally nothing but this HUGE list of things I wanted to eat when this is over. Hah, I must have been writing it all deliriously, or one hour before sundown! Hah!

I’m such a NERD. I’ve also got a countdown on my calendar as # days/nights until Paige comes! So soon (at least in Niger time). Less than 2 months! Thank Allah it will be colder by then!

I must say I’m glad to be back “home” in the village. I was out for WAY too long – 3 weeks and a night I think. I didn’t want to do it that way, just happened because of scheduling of events, lack of rides, going to Niamey, etc. But I’m back! Our new volunteers went out for their 1st month at post at the same time. It’ll be cool to see how their experiences are, impressions, etc. although I don’t plan on being in Zinder long enough to see their return. Now that bush taxis are running to my village again I can go in and out fairly easily (by Nigerien standards, hah!)

I am at market now. I’m all alone, which is actually kind of nice so I took a ½ hour nap. My neighbor John’s “dad” came and greeted me. Said that John went to Zinder but is already back. Stomach troubles. I told him, “He’s always got stomach problems” and he agreed and imitated him, “Oh, oh, I’m not well, I’m really not well!” Poor guy probably wasn’t. It does really blow when you get sick here. Whew. 5 hours till the breaking of the fast. Sounds like a long time, but anything after 2pm feels “close”, and it’s close to 1:30. Patience. Patience. Patience. I just lie here thinking about Dinner! Friday dinner is great. I don’t cook anything but a fresh vegetable like squash. I have bread, these bean dumpling things, macaroni from market, tofu, sliced cucumber, or banana, dates. All market stuff. Plus a friend’s family brings me a hot thick millet drink. Wow, I realize probably 80% of this letter is food-related. Sorry, but it’s like day19 of fasting. In any case, I can’t believe the low level of stress, frustration, etc, that I’m having. You’d think that of all times, this would drive me to my wits end but I feel this strange sense of patience with everyone. It feels like my Hausa is actually better right now (crazy!!) Perhaps because I’m not “expecting” anything. I knew this month would be really hard, and as a result it hasn’t seemed bad. There is this strange sort of unity I have with folks here, we’re all suffering together. LOL.

I’ve talked to villagers a bit more about Paige’s visit as well, and they seem really excited. Of course, we’ll probably only be out in the village for 4 days or so. (Trust me, Paige- you’ll be READY to leave by then, LOL) No, it’s all good, just very intense for someone who’s not used to it. I remember at my live-in (Preview) thinking that the 3 days was SO much time there. Hah. Now 3 weeks doesn’t feel long at all. Don’t get me wrong though, I’ve definitely started a list of things I’m going to do in town the 3 or 4 days I’ll be there. And laying around, watching movies, eating, and general R & R take up a large part of it.

I really wanted to get some “work” done out in the bush here, but with fasting it is impossible. This way, I’ll get to come back rested, clean, (and probably a good 5 lbs heavier!) I’ve been reading some books as well, that’s for sure. This one character made me think of Kyla a lot. Anyhow, as I said the villagers are quite excited about Paige coming. I keep harping about it, but I’m just so excited!!! Some days I just miss everyone so much, well, most days I guess, but not in a distressing way. Just in that “I wish you were here, can’t wait till I can see you again” sort of way. On that subject, actually I’ve been thinking about the future post-peace corps. It seems like there are so many opportunities – a whole world full of different things to do, but am I just going to end up being so far away from everyone? I realize I think about the distance now more than I used to. (Obviously, being way out here), but it is something I’ve been progressively giving more serious thought to over the past 2 years or so. I mean, I definitely plan on being on my own feet and having plans set up and waiting for when I get done with service here. Part of me just wants to go live at home on Barrick Dr and take care of the house and yard, etc. Or to stay at Paige’s, or with Kyla, or Dad. Although he’s still farther away from a lot of folks. Maybe I’m thinking about this more today because yesterday I sat down and went through tons of old lettersJ I keep them all in this big manila folder. Mom, you were talking about how everyone just “scatters”. I know it’s highly hypocritical of me to complain about it, being the prime example, but still. You said something to the effect of: Why can’t we find a place that works for lot of us; some sort of cooperative situation. I just wonder, people can’t really be meant to live so far apart. Even my 1st and 2nd months here when I could hardly communicate, I still went out to this social circle just to “sit” with people, you know? I always felt my stress level go down even if I only exchanged a handful of greetings upon arrival and when I got up to leave – something about just being there. There’s a lot to be said for non-verbal communication.

Well, good news. Apparently, Ramadan is over in Zinder, in the city. (They are ahead of us country folk), so our fast will end tonight, or tomorrow night. Either way I’ll be in Zinder in a little over 48 hours and eating yummy food and drinking really bad boxed wine. Hmm... Perhaps pasta with that!

Well, I just talked with Ali, my NGO rep and he had all these ideas about projects for me. Luckily I have my own stuff as well, so there will be a nice choice of activities. First, he’s making a committee for taking care of all the trees that were planted. They want me to be an advisor of sorts, helping find ways to protect encourage growth, get folks off their bums to check on the trees regularly, etc. So I can do it. I’ll be sort of “in charge” of a bunch of men. Plus it will give me a legitimate way to socialize more regularly with different age/sex groups, so that’s good. The other project Ali is setting up is either a pepiniere, or a garden for the school. It’s up to me to decide, plan, go over the land to survey and what have you. I already know the school teacher with is good, and he’s really a nice guy. I’m thinking about doing gum Arabic tree pepiniere. I have more training for trees, plus it’s harder to kill them, and they would be an eventual fundraiser; regenerative income source if begun correctly.

So much work to do suddenly! It’s like that though. Hurry up, wait, wait, …I need to learn, really learn to not let myself feel “hurried” by my surroundings, like if I’m not ready when folks in the village here are. In the U.S. it’s rude to make someone wait and you apologize. Here, well, it would be unheard of to “apologize” for being late. The concept doesn’t really exist. Well, that’s a real broad generalization. In the city it does a bit, but in the bush it does not exist.

Well, I’ve got to go buy some peanut oil so I can make battered and fried okra. I swore I’d make okra that tastes good, and all my PCV friends were like “no way! That’s impossible!” Too bad, I loved okra till I came here. I think with enough time I could learn to like, or tolerate anything. But the okra sauce is just SO disgusting. Dried and pounded with oil, spices, water with a sticky consistency like mucus. I can’t even come close to describing the full intensity of it, seriously./ So, I’m going to introduce a different way of cooking it, and hopefully this will work!! Maybe I’ll bring my fried okra babies to the end of Ramadan celebration. Let’s pray it is tomorrow and not Wednesday. I’m so sick of fasting !! All this in a country where people are malnourished. Their commitment and effort does amaze me, even if the majority don’t even really know why they’re doing it.

Love you. Miss you. Talk to you soon! Love, Brooke

Warning, this letter spans 3 days and therefore is quite long and rambling!

I received 2 pkgs and letters! It was like Christmas, and exactly the kinds of things that I need/want- thank you everyone!!! It’s been awhile since I’ve gotten to talk to anyone, as I’ll be out here another 2 weeks before I head back into the ‘city’, and losing my cell phone hasn’t helped. Of course no one would leave me alone out here when I talked on it anyway, still I’d rather have it.

Happy Birthday Paige! Of course it will be belated! I read –almost done- A Stranger in a Strange Land, it was pretty good! Even though science fiction isn’t typically my thing. Been doing a lot of reading or at least trying to. I think I actually do more at the hostel, strangely enough. People leave me alone for the most part, but I find the day is better if I spend most of my time out of the house. So now I can go in and out of folk’s houses without this “Whoa, it’s Salamai! Where are you going/coming from?” etc. They are getting more used to me which is nice. I guess I’m getting used to how they do things a bit. Things will seem so rigid, when I get back home, LOL. I’m so used to sitting with the ladies and hordes of kids under the gao tree and watching kids rolling in the dirt, pooping, noses running, sticking things in their mouths, and sand everywhere. The moms and older kids will just pick them up, grab a stick off the ground to wipe their nose (or clean their bottoms- seriously) The women actually just let them sit there balanced on their outstretched ankles – makeshift toilet, hah! My immune system will be solid when I’m done here, LOL.

I’ve found myself eating more of their foods lately. Like tuvo and other millet based foods. Strangely enough, I’m really starting to like it although I still can’t stand the okra sauce. I’ve had a few other sauces that are pretty good. The other night one of my favorite girls brought me gumbo- which is ground red millet, not pounded, with some kind of salad greens with peanut butter resin and a little oil mixed like a salad. Let me tell you, I ate the whole thing even though I had just finished dinner, LOL. It’s like, now that they finally believe that I want to do “Hausa”things, everyone wants to make me food or something.

Well, there was a nice storm there; the sky got this real strange look, the color of the light changes, especially if there is a lot of wind. It’s kind of surreal if it happens early enough in the day, say 3pm and it gets so dark that you have to light your lantern. I had to push my trunk up against the door because the wind got so crazy. A bit cramped there for a bit with everything in the house. Got to remember, we pretty much live outdoors here. Anyway, now it’s finally night at 9pm. I sit, inside my big mosquito net on a mattress, on a plastic mat, which is on the ground. I gave up on the bed. It works much better as a bookshelf – keeps things off the ground, too.

I can hear a million voices from across the “street”. They somehow got a TV rigged up to this generator, and are sharing DVDs at night for 50cfa entry, ha! You’ve never seen anything as ridiculous as Hausa movies (or music videos). Trust me. I suppose I could try to explain, but there are really no words for the god-awful, hilarious, ridiculous thing that is Hausa cinema. I went last night with friends and made it through the 1st movie and then I had to leave. It was too much –the terrible quality, sounds, I was trying not to crack up the whole time. Well supposedly there is an “American” film tonight, but I’m not getting dressed to go out till I hear English (which I severely doubt). Folks think Americans make movies in Hausa, too!

Actually yesterday was pretty nice. I did so much stuff with the villagers here which I wasn’t expecting. First off I went to Ungoal Obale and visited John, who had delivered me a letter from Zinder from Kyla. So that was pretty awesome! I listened to CSN for the walk. It’s a good “trucking through the Sahel” kind of music. Although I think I’ve mentioned that in the past. I ended up chilling at my friend Ayshe’s after, eating tuvo there, greeting and hanging with two other gatherings. Saw my Mai Gari’s first wife, who had a medical issue with her hand, but seems better. Then I hung out as usual for the afternoon at my aduwa tree, pounded some millet (seriously!), went to Hassira’s to watch/help make tuvo, and later went with friends to the “Guvin Kallo” to see the movies. Ah! A lot of integration for one day, but that’s good! Tomorrow we’re going to the field to plant millet, sorghum, peanuts and beans. The ladies also have a “Guin Miya” where they cultivate their sauce stuff. Mostly okra-yum, yum-yuk! But that’s exclusively women, whereas everyone does millet, and main staple crops.

Speaking of planting, I got my garden in last week so by next, it should be sprouting! It’s going to be a jungle in here! I’ve already got some serious grass growing, much to the horror of my neighbors – although I don’t on the “porch” area where my shade hangar and general living area is. That is swept clean to the hard pan. I put in tomatoes, squash, basil, cucumbers, a little bit of beans, asparagus and beets, lots of peppers and a tester pumpkin on the other side of the gida by itself. Then a neighbor gave me some takena (hibiscus) seeds, so I did a few hills of those. It’s the season for it now; they are bringing it in like crazy. All I’m hearing about is “yakena sauce!!” all the time. So I’m buying some Friday at the market. I try to get a few new things each month or so. I told them I’d bring millet flour from Zinder in 2-3 weeks, too, and Aysha’s going to give me a tuvo pot so that I can make it myself at home. A really encouraging thing in this regard. When we were having the tuvo discussion yesterday I had two separate requests from different people for the “improved” stove I had mentioned to them a month or so ago. So it must have made a good impression! Usually it seems you have to do all kinds of things to get someone to try your idea and here I have them reminding ME and asking when and where we can do it. They agreed we’d make it at my place when the rains end and after harvest possibly.

Oh yeah! I have 2 kittens now. When we were picking up our packages in Zinder, we saw 2 little kittens outside and the folks there didn’t want them so we took them to the hostel. I found a carrier (amazing – who’d of thought- here in Niger?) I actually took them on a bush taxi! Although it was positively the worst experience traveling I’ve ever had in my whole life! I think I’ll stay put in the future to wait for a PC car or NGO car (at least for going back to the bush – leaving is a lot easier logistically). I don’t even want to revisit it or I’ll FLIP OUT, but I left the hostel at 1:30 pm and got home at close to 10:30pm and had to spend twice the usual fare, deal with waiting, storms, water, asshole people, and a motorcycle ride from Hell through the night and couldn’t see anything when I got to my village. Then I saw my stuff all disorderly in the house when I got in. At first I thought folks had messed with my stuff, and it felt like the LAST STRAW. In the morning I saw that they had actually saved my stuff, especially books, papers, etc. from certain destruction. They had put my stuff out to dry and just set it back in my boxes haphazardly. I checked later and saw that NOTHING was missing at all. Even my spilled matches were put in a bag and kept for me. Then I felt bad for automatically assuming things, but I know it was the stress from the hellish previous day and night.

They really are a HUGE help most of the time. Ayshe does so much stuff for me. I inquired about getting milk for my cats. I’d rather do it locally from a neighbor than buy store bought and dried stuff. She comes back five minutes later with a bowl of goat milk and refuses money. Of course it would have sold for 25-50cfa, but still. So now (for a week now), she brings some in the am and pm! I named the cats, too. Abdu and Sonleymane, which all the villagers think is hilarious. They ask me, “So how are Abdu and Sonleymane?” “Yes, they are in health”, LOL. I told them since I have no kids; I had to name my cats. Of course I didn’t realize how needy they can be. I found myself close to hurling them away from me at times. (Perhaps this is a sign that I’m not ready to have kids of my own anytime soon?Hah!)

One thing that really got me thinking lately is that the new stage just got into country. Last Friday, the 29th I think. So I’m not one of the babies anymore! But I’m glad, this means there will be a swear-in and related festivities in the end of Sept. and I’ll get to go and see friends I haven’t seen since the end of May. Of course, some of them may come out here, for the Pirate Party John is putting together. Apparently the whole hostel will be done up like a ship or something. And “treasure” will be hidden around town and he’s going to make “grog” (watered down rum? I’m really not sure…) I remember my first few days here, being freaked out, going to stay with the host family. I see how much different it is there in Hamdallaye. NOTHING like the bush. They’re so used to white people and more educated (some). Not like here. I like it better here!! That’s for sure.

Oh, yeah, another fun thing was soccer games. They’ve been playing lately here (all boys of course). Although I told the women that I liked to play back in the US. They were surprised, but one of them said, “Well, she goes running out there you know!” The idea of exercise, or taking a walk just doesn’t exist in Hausa land.

So much to do! I have a lot of stuff just here at the house, so I’d never get bored, but I don’t think it’s good to stay in shut off, since none of the villagers do that. I have fixed a lot of stuff, learning to be more self reliant which is good. I haven’t had to ask for help on stuff, except for breaking my key in half and being locked outL Babba had to break in with a big knife thing it was hard, too. At least we know if one wanted to break in they’d have a real hard time. But I fixed some skirts that were ripped all over. We also went to a tailor in Zinder. I got a dress made from some fabric I found in a grab box –nice. Came out pretty well, too! And cheap. 1500cfa ($3). I think I spend 3 times as much as that on a few weeks worth of oatmeal! No really, it’s totally become my comfort food here. I’ve gotten it down to a science too. I make a mix dried with spices and stuff and take it to the bush with me. I’ve developed a morning schedule as well. Better than how I was doing things before. It’s nice to get up real early, and just read, drink coffee, take an early walk/job, etc. and do stretches, then eat a bit later. They think I’m nuts for doing things before I eat!

Of course now, I feel bad cooking anything really good smelling because my neighbor Sayyida is fasting. Apparently she missed last Ramadan, so she is “making it up” now. That sucks, since Ramadan will start again in like two months. Of course, right now is the worst time as far as food goes. So if you have to fast, do it when there’s not much variety. The vegetables are gone in the bush, save onions and squash, some hot peppers, garlic, some dried tomatoes and other dried leaves to make sauce. Then you’ve got rice, millet, corn flour, beans, or white bread. Dried peanut resin (actually really good) and tofu- those are my treats on market day. That and hura. Or else it’s slim pickins till harvest. Even then, the veggies won’t be THAT much better. Not till cold season gardening come in. Oh, I forgot- we have dates, too, and cassava root. One of my friends is going to make me bean-like dumplings. FOOD, FOOD, FOOD.

Something of concern did happen the other day. Although I’m not too worried. It’ll work itself out. As we were returning from market the other day Aysha gives me a couple of dates. This other lady says, “She gives you dates now, water, sweeping, tuvo. Nothing for her! You should bring her something- like new clothes from Zinder! I wanted to say, “Hell, I gave her 1,000cfa two weeks ago”. But she was sitting right there and got kind of quiet. So apparently she hasn’t told them I’ve given her $ from time to time. Probably out of protecting me so I don’t get asked for stuff. But at the same time, that means everyone thinks I’m not giving her anything in return. I admit I haven’t done a lot, but I’ve brought earrings, bracelet and 2 mil plus more $ this week. Ugh, oh well, at some point the give and take will settle itself out alright. I plan on borrowing a cell phone to have a can of oatmeal brought out here on my shuttle to give to her. Seriously! I brought a small bit to her house a few days back and she was saying how it was good and strange, etc. Expensive, but health is an investment – plus it’ll diversify the diet-if only for a week or two. It still plants the seed: hey, we can eat something different for lunch today, etc.Yeah, right. They’ll eat oatmeal, and then still eat tuwo, the villagers are definitely a trip sometimes. It makes days go by quickly sometimes. After a few days at the hostel it feels like eternity, but not out here. I was last in for the annual “prom” only for less than a week, but I guess it was a little intense, since folks were coming in from other regions, although many didn’t come that I wish would have. Oh well.

Well, it’s Thurs am now, early! Actually felt kind of cold last night. I’m thinking why do I feel strange all of a sudden. I want to get in bed, then I realized it was just the cold! Crazy. No apparently it seems that my door to the concession doesn’t want to open, due to warping and mud moving around. Either that, or Zilay is putting a lot of effort into something I don’t understand. Of course she’s trying to push it open the wrong way. Well, that’s Hausa folks for you. I believe I may make a second round of coffee for today. You know, the funniest thing startled me last night. I was sitting here and the goats to the back of my concession were being especially loud and it sounded like someone yelled my name. My real name. “Br—roo—ooke!” Seriously.

Argh! Of course, as always, they tell me to get ready really early. So I eat at 7am and I’m ready. It’s going on 9am. Yeah, let’s wait till it gets sunny and hot, then we’ll go farm. You’d think the women were busy, the reason for delay. But no, I went to see, and they are just chilling, not doing anything. This is Niger. No logic.

Well, it’s next morning now, I’m off to market in a few hours. Hopefully, to drop this letter off with one of the NGO fellows. So yesterday I finally went out with Aysha to the farmers as we pass them she says, “She came to see”, etc. OK, thanks for the “tan”, but I’ve done this 200 times already. But she probably didn’t realize it. It’s just annoying. Some of the women are like “Chewbaca works in the fields!!. Why don’t you?” I say, “I want to, let me go with you.” But then they do stuff like this. I think I just have to be more assertive and pick a person or two to stalk. Hah! It’s hard. Sometimes being a woman here helps, but it can make it worse as well. (As I know I’ve complained about at length in the past) So I’ve really been learning how to push people. Please let me try. Don’t complain to me and then not let me try. I actually sort of hollered that yesterday and I think a few of the ladies got it. Sort of off topic. I went to buy oil yesterday and cooked with it and it made really good flavor (this could be a good or bad sign, right???). It took me into this very inner part of my hamlet where I would have been completely lost before, so that’s good. Yum, peanut oil. Never thought things like millet, peanut oil, raw dates, etc. would be so good.

So I’m very excited at the idea of coming back in 13 months!! Amazing! Of course, hopefully we can do some other trips somewhere in there. Like how Morocco was mentioned! It’s silly for me to think about travel this early on in my service with 21 months to go, hah. At least I’ve started some work plans. I’ve come to realize that if I wanted to, I could rely on Aquadev to do pretty much everything for me, or for me to merely assist with their stuff. My neighbor PCV John gave them a thing he’d written up on possible project ideas. I was like “Wow, you’ve already discussed all this with the villagers? I haven’t done much of that yet”. But he said he just picked a few ideas from what he’d seen and observed, etc. and presented it to the NGO and they could take it from there and d the establishing, etc. I suppose I could do that, too, but I’d rather do it all myself. Of course, at this stage it would be really hard. Although I have an idea. Being that it is rainy season now (finally!) I couldn’t do this yet since everyone is working constantly, and with the rain it’s not necessary. Plus, the delay to end of the harvest gives me more time for language, etc. So what I’m thinking is: a dry season drip irrigation system for gardening. I asked and found out that there is gardening all year round. But I know it’s extremely labor intensive and the lack of rain makes it hard. They have to pump all the water and go and water it by hand. The work is often done during midday when there’s less of a line at the pump/wells and when there is less other work happening. Of course, this wastes lots of water since it dries up and evaporates with the sun. A lot of wasted labor. The system is gravity based and doesn’t use any power sources, it just requires that this huge basin be filled regularly and that the equipment be well cared for, etc. Plus, I was thinking if I wanted to do a big project next year, this would be a good med-sized project to do first. It would introduce the idea of raising part of the money ourselves here. Investment rather than merely a gift from an NGO. We’ll see. I’m not into bringing infrastructure, but this is an extremely appropriate technology that is fairly cheap, ecologically friendly, and could work quite well here. That and I’ll do my cook stove thing.

Checked the garden today and the squash have started to come out! By next week there should be more. Plus, I’m going to do some collecting of wild leaves/herbs. Yesterday, Ayshe and I went and collected tons of hibiscus – another thing I’ll learn to cook soon in sauce, of course. Nigeriens and their sauce. I should use a different name, because it doesn’t resemble anything like what you think of as sauce in the U.S,

Oh, apparently the “movie” thing I mentioned is going to be a regular thing now, until some part of it breaks, right? Ha, ha, bad joke, but sadly true. But they were joking to me about bringing them American movies and I laughed. Then it dawned on me: I could totally do it. There are a million and one movies in Zinder. DVDs actually. I could pick one or 2 or 3 that show U.S. culture, making sure they’re PG/PG13 of course. I could pick ones that show stuff like a whole family eating together, men and women working together, and scenes, music, etc. of U.S. life. They said they don’t care if it’s in English. They saw 20 min. of some really bad U.S. movie I’ve never heard of and are raving about it, seriously. So I think it could be cool to show how other people live. Of course, finding a movie that’s fairly close to real life, and appropriate for Hausa folks will be hard. Luckily it is mostly kids, young folks, and a few married women. The younger ones, and they don’t get offended easily. They just laugh and shout, “Oh, my god, immoral living!!”

So, send e news of what’s happening. Anything at all is great. I’m happy to hear that Kyla got a spot picked for her wedding. I wish I was there to help plan!! Oh well…. And it’ll be awesome to see vacation pics, or whatever you’ve got as soon as you’ve got them. I realize I also have pics remaining in a computer file in Niamey. I didn’t have the time to post them all when I was there before. So look online at that same place towards the end of Sept. and I’ll get them up.

Well, my dad just dropped in and was saying “tomorrow” (next month, right?) they’d come and clear out all the grass and weeds overrunning my gida. I’m like OK, thanks. But I really don’t care, plus I’d rather get the hoe and do it myself. Maybe I’ll do that, if they actually come. It’s been cool, too! Yesterday I didn’t even feel warm really and at night I slept with balloon blanket! Cloudy all day which was good, the men started transplanting the trees from a pepiniere garden up at the mesas where they did the govt. projects. The restoration work I had written about.

Ayyshe just dropped in and brought me some masas – millet pancake things with hot pepper. I love them. She saw me buy a few at market so now on Friday mornings she brings them if she’s made any to sell at market. So kind, and she’s bringing milk for the cats twice a day! I told her I’m going to bring their gida sauce with couscous or something! I want to get rid of it anyway since I don’t eat much of it, hah!

Since January, I have this constant wondering. It comes in cycles I guess. Just wondering where all my friends and family are “right now”. What each person is doing, if they’ve moved, gotten new jobs, etc. etc. Everything will be SO changed! When I return…

I miss and love you all ! Hope everyone is well and happy.

Don’t forget to count your blessings. I try to remember that for myself here.

Everything is good. Hope to hear from you soon!! Love Brooke

PS Happy early birthday Chuck!

June 26, 2006 Hello! It feels like it's been awhile since I've written. I'm not really sure with all the stuff that's been going on lately. Right now as I was about to start writing my"dad" came in and told me that more government organization people (he just calls them "guests", LOL) were coming tomorrow to see the work being done on near the mesas. So far from what I can see the folks here have got a lot of effort. Of course I think for this project they are getting paid for the number of trenches they make. There was this Huge work party that converged day before yesterday at the Mai Gari's place and it took me awhile to figure out what was going on. Lots of men and boys with shovels and pick axes and lots of old men sitting around greeting each other. Then the govt. agents came- the prefet(?) and an agriculture guy, an engineer, a natural resource guy, etc. maybe 5 altogether. I wasn't sure what exactly was happening, and the guy I know from my NGO (who seemed to be coordinating the thing) was in a big hurry. He greeted me and said he was off to Zermou. I'm like, "Ok?" All these guys were asking me where my shovel was - it was hilarious. I actually wanted to go dig trenches, but figured I should stay for the "meeting" with all the old dudes, important people, etc. I was worried I missed an opportunit to get an "in" with the govt. guys - as I only greeted them and said I was working here, etc. But now it seems they will be back tomorrow. So I'm going to dress nice, drink a lot of coffee and try to make me and myself known. It's Nigerien-style schmoozing or something. Only a LOT harder in a foreign language!! Shoot, when I'm back in the US I swear nothing (job related) is going to phase me. And thank ALLAH - I can really understand the Prefet really well. His Hausa is very clear and he speaks clearly and slowly. That's good - he's the head honcho guy. I could really use him.

Of course I'm not ready to start having full-blown village meetings yet, but I can hold pretty decent conversations with a few people. A whole group and it gets hard. Luckily my friend, Aysha gets most of what I say and can translate to the others if they don't get it, LOL. Lately she's been dropping by in the AM. She used to just linger after bringing water. But now she'll come just to come, at first I was like, oh no.... But since I can speak a little better now, it is fun and she'll just sit here and we'll talk about stuff for awhile. I told her that I want to start work here, but need more Hausa. She told me not to worry, and that I could even have good enough language to teach them English or to read/write after 6 mo to a year. Whew! I'm glad someone thinks I've learned something! Yesterday I brought my technical language manual out to the hang out spot and everyone was AMAZED by it. (there are some basic pics to demonstrate environmental techniques) I showed them the cookstove pictures and they asked all these questions. I tried to explain and they said they were interested!! So, I told them I have "big photos" to teach them how to do it. It's really a pamplet, but how do I explain that in Hausa? So yeah, I guage from the relative "non-difficulty" of our conversation, that building cookstoves could be a good first thing to do. We shall see, I may be able to start with "work" sooner than I thought, which is good Although I'm still in the process of writing a thing/speech to explain myself, my work, lack of $, etc. to them. They've already been briefed, but most folks associate ALL white people with aid money, etc. and still don't understand the idea of me coming to teach them to help themselves. (I haven't found a word for 'sustainable' in Hausa) So yeah. I want to do something fun, too. I might invite my neighbors over on July 4th and cook up a bunch of food, LOL. I'm taking off on the 5th anyways. Then I'm going to bring another fellow volunteer out to visit the place, which should be fun. You know I feel like I've been coming and going more than I had planned. I've been here 4-5 days and I'm leaving again in a week. I guess last time I had to go into town, as my stove was busted. But hey I got to cook on coals outside, on one of those wire cook things. Kind of felt like I was camping, but still, sometimes you just want to go and EAT something, not have to prepare a fire, cook, wait, etc. Put out the fire and etc. I'm such an American!! So what's been happening in the news lately? I've caught bits of things on the radio, but my timing is always off. That and I've been trying to listen to Hausa radio. So sometimes I miss the good English language broadcasts. Believe it or not, the local station is easy to understand! Relatively, that is. I'm glad, especially since I'll be working with them in the next few months most likely! That and I think we're getting a new volunteer in Gafafi, a town about 15-20K or so from here, on my route to Zinder. Woohoo!!! I'm so excited for a new white person in the area!! Of course that won't be til the beginning of Oct., but still.... So when is the family vacation? I'm sure you told me in an earlier letter, I think it was quite awhile ago. Not too much going on here in the PC world. Although we have a new stage of volunteers coming end of July, so we won't be the newbies anymore. We've got a "prom" in a few weeks, too, apparently at this "club" place in Zinder, with dining, swimming, music and what have you. Nice! I atually went there to go swimming last time I was in Zinder which felt so nice. I took a friend, too who had never been swimming. (It seems many Nigeriens are afraid of the water!) OK, this is random. but I was thinking I have a much better grasp on the cardinal directions now. Folks here REALLY know them, I guess due to lack of our kind of infrastructure and because they live so close and are so dependent on nature. For example, the Nigerien NGO came and did a meting on SIDA (AIDS) with a men and women's group. After we joined to watch a movie they rigged to the back of the truck (Actually a terrible educational film, mostly in French that hardly mentioned AIDS. Hey, that's effeciency in Niger for you. Well, it wasn't clear, and my friend said, "come let's go north, yes, there" and we moved 10 feet "to the north". It actually struck me, so I started listening more carefully and I'm noticing how they use things like directions in their language so much more for basic things that we normally wouldn't associate with N-S-E-W. OK, maybe you think that's wierd, but I thought it was interesting. Like I told someone I found a big stick on the north side of my bed - instead of behind it or near the wall. And they were like "OH, for real?" So I guess I used it right. See this is why I swear it could take me my whole life to really get another language. Especially one from a culture so removed from your own. Ah, yes,...how I love guests at 6:30AM. I feel bad when I have NOTHING to say, but hey, it's 6:30AM. I haven't had my delicious SAMBA instant offee yet. (I've actually gone a step down from Nescafe - if you can believe it! so I'm not awake for English, let alone Hausa. But I really miss everyone! Especially lately! I apologize about the randomness of my phone. Most of the time it works well, so I'm not sure what was going on there. If it weren't for the time difference it'd be easier, too. When I'm out in the bush, there's only a few hours where it is still light here, and you all are awake. They would freak out if I rambled off into the bush when it's dark. Actually I don't have a desire to either. It's easy to get lost with absolutely no break in the wind, no lights from anywhere, really you've never seen darkness till you're out here. So we have to MAKE SURE that I get this phone thing figured out or just get a better system,etc. Especially these past 2-3 weeks there have definitely been times when it would have been good to talk to someone. I'm feeling more normal and relaxed again, which is good. I guess it's all just part of adjustment or whatever. I'm going to send you guys some kind of pakage, too. So if you want something special let me know. Of course this is Nigerien time we're talking about so it could be say 4 months or longer from now, Hah! I can't think of anything I really need from the US though. Besides news - I want to know what is going on with everyone! And any plans etc. Kyla made any wedding plans yet? I know it's probably silly to ask, still being a bit far in the future. But hey! It really does take me four days to write a letter, LOL. Anyhow, there has just been a lot of work going on (such a good sign) My NGO guys came back yesterday afternoon and we all went to the mesas to see the work. Supposedly they did 800 trenches, but for 3 days work? I'm not so sure...neither was Ali. Anyhow I was very happy that I could understand part of our work meeting yesterday. When it was finally over, Ali kind of laughed and said "OK, you probably didn't get that, there's ...(to translate) and I cut him off and was like, "there's a meeting tomorrow with all the combined villlagers only in the afternoon because of the remaining work to be done in the AM" and he was like Allah! She understood! Hah! Of course most of the banter back and forth I didn't get, but at least I heard the punch lines and could follow the topic and comments here and there. So yeah. And this morning I am going to start digging up the hard pan in my concession to prepare a garden bed. We still haven't had much rain, but I'm going to get it ready now, plant later. Vegetables, and basil and who knows what else. I borrowed a shovel and outlined my space last night. It's seriously going to be a jungle in here when this takes off. It's going to take up 25-30% of my open space. But right now I'm really not using it at all. Besides throwing my matt out in the middle of it to eat or stretch out. That and yesterday I had a strange realization. The friend who always brings me water (I've mentioned her alot I believe). Well, she was on her way to my house with a bucket on her head. While me and other ladies were chilling under a tree. They asked if my house was open. I said yes, I felt really awkward. Should I jump up and run after her, since she's hauling water for me and I'm sitting watching from a distance? Then some of the women were whispering to me -"Her husband is gone" "He's far away, he went to Nigeria to look for money". So I guess there are still men on exodus. I felt dumb not knowing, but it's so hard to figure out who's with who, etc. Well, they said, you should give her a shirt, a skirt or something, then they said, "really just some food to eat, or a little $, her husband is gone, and she brings you water always" I felt kind of bad. Because Hausa folks are usually really frank about everything and if they want something, they point and say "GIVE ME...." But Aysha never does. Now I realize she probably doesn't want to ask me, and that even if I gave her nothng she'd still keep helping me. She told me later I forgot to shut my door and she also went and found my extra bucket to put the extra water in. Very thoughtful. Always. I do want to bring her something. I see now that although jewelry I brought is nice, she always wears it, but I should probably just bring some food. I guess this is my chance to put a little nutritional lesson in as well. And I'm glad that the other women are not badgering me to bring them stuff, but HER- since she helps me. Maybe I'll bring peanut butter, and tell her it'll fatten up her smallest baby, which is way too skinny. Luckily the older boys have a little more fat. Along food lines - I introduced another friend to oatmeal the other day and he was like, "Wow, where can I buy this???" Funny...only ZINDER for nearly @ mil a canLOL.I still eat it -what else do I need to spend money on? Well, as usual I've gone on forever. I miss you all so much!! I wish there was a way folks could come here and stay with me awhile, alas, thank you/thank you/ for all the support. Write to me soon! LOVE, LOVE LOVE BROOKE PS I'll talk to one of you soon over the phone!

May 3, 2006

Howdy! I’m in my 2nd month out here in my village. I am now free to go as I please, but I figure I may as well spend as much time as possible out here, try to get my language up to par, etc. Plus, I have a pre-arranged PC shuttle on the 18th to Zinder. I won’t be back before early June-it’s hard to believe. So far I’ve only told my villagers that I am going to Zinder so they won’t barrage me with “zigege” requests (presents you bring back after taking a trip). It can get difficult when you have 30 different folks all expecting a personal zigege. I tell them I don’t have enough $ and that there just isn’t enough room in my bag and they laugh and say they understand. So that is good.

Anyhow, the ride back out here sure was interesting… I’m definitely going to avoid it if I can in the future. I had to walk all the way across Zinder to my station. Luckily my car always leaves daily at 5 pm-ish, but it’s always SO full, I ended up riding on a small section of guard rail for the 1 hour, 20 min ride through the bumpy bush road to my village, ugh….. There are 2 or 3 spots in the front, but I feel that is even more unsafe up there with the bad brakes and windshields that don’t shatter when you hit then.

But I got here ! I got to see friends in Zinder and relax, etc. This was really nice. Been out here a week, and unless I have to, I’m planning on staying until that shuttle comes in. A good thing happened this am, too. Some of the women I hadn’t seen for 2-3 weeks, said, “Oh, you’ve learned some Hausa since I last saw you”. Whew, at least they can tell I’ve gotten somewhat better. Even regular city folk here have a hard time talking to bush folk, they say their language is so poor and I believe it.

So anyhow, you’ll think this is funny . Last Friday at market, I saw a friend (who I’ve previously mentioned), who teaches English at the middle school in Zermou, my market town. Anyway, we arranged that he would come out to see Bankareta and see my place. So the next am, he and his friend who teaches here in my village, arrive and about 10 kids follow them in. (Oh my god the nasara has visitors!!) So then we finally get the kids to go, and his friend goes to greet the Mai Gaii and get some lunch started. Well, he and I were only alone for 5-10 minutes, and then my usual (annoying) group of teenage girls come in, stand in the doorway of my porch and just stare and they won’t leave. I laughed and tried to explain to him that this is what they like to do. He told me it was totally fine to tell them they shouldn’t do that (just stare and watch me), and that they know they shouldn’t and that they know that it is disturbing. And that is coming from a Nigerien ! Woohoo, so it is not just me always being super “private and American”. That was reassuring, but they wouldn’t go for some reason (usually they leave right away when I tell them). I’m thinking, ok, strange, hmm….Anyhow, I showed him pics of the US, of you all and stuff, and a bit later one of my neighbor men comes in to greet – in to the HOUSE (which they never do). So I got the feeling they were really just coming to “check” on me since my friend is a man and he was in the house. But for God’s sake, it was 11 am, the doors and windows are open, my villagers all know who he is, AND there are 10 girls 5 feet away on my porch! But apparently this still was not enough supervision I guess. Another man came to “greet”, (but he spoke very curtly and quickly so I couldn’t get what he said. I didn’t see it at the time, but I was later told by my guest that he had a knife strapped to his lower leg – Geez!!) For show- I’m sure. Well, I was told he said that it was unacceptable for a man to visit me at my house and that he had to leave right away. Seriously, ok, I’m 24 years old! Anyway, he left and went to his teacher friend’s house and later my “dad” Ali went over there and sort of “apologized” for how hostile the one guy had been. My Mai Gaii didn’t seem to care, but just said that he couldn’t allow male guests in my house because the village is responsible for my safety and don’t want anyone to be able to waltz in (except for hordes of women and children of course!) So-whatever.

It was really funny that afternoon – all the women were asking me questions, saying that if he “ever came back” I should yell and tell him to go. AND, if I happen to see him in Zermou at the Fri. market I’m supposed to look the other way and say, “Ban san kaba” (I don’t know you). It was all so hysterical that it actually kept me from being too annoyed. I mean, I’m not about to give up my only English speaking friend, thank you very much. Plus, he’s helping me a lot with Hausa. With how to explain and say things in ways that Bush people understand (things that you can’t find in a dictionary) So, yeah.

I think I may go and visit Chewbaca’s village tomorrow, just for a little break in the schedule. I actually got REALLY brave and went to Zermou yesterday (knowing that the women might get mad), and visited the middle school and took pics there which was fun. I was quite proud of myself for taking the initiative with something. Both for finding the school and approaching the place ALONE, and for drawing a line and sticking up for myself. If I let them walk all over me on this (who I can be friends with) then I’m not going to get anywhere. They need to see that there is nothing wrong with men and women working together. Right now it’s pretty much my only option, (no educated women here). When my Hausa is better, I’ll be able to incorporate many women into projects I’ll do. And amazingly enough, when I returned to home from Zermou yesterday afternoon, I wasn’t greeted with 100 prying questions like I thought I would be. Then again, my friend there told me that my Mai Gaii said that I could go wherever I wanted, but that guests at my house are to be regulated. So I guess that’s good and gives me the freedom to meet people, make co-workers, scope out future projects and the like. Thank goodness!!

Let me tell you, it is getting hard to do all the stuff I want to do in a day. This is right in the hot season now. It starts coming on a little after 9 am and it’s HOT till after 5 pm. I still manage to do some jogging (or at least walking, climbing the rocks, etc.) around 6:30ish, but I have to drink 2-3 nalgenes in the hour previous, and 2-3 (at least) after I return- CRAZY!! They say that May is the worst month. So I’m just getting through it one hot one after another… it is pretty nice at night though, and I’m staying awake later these days because of it. I like to throw out my bigger mat and do stretches, dishes, read, study, write and then just chill out to I-POD tunes and lie there staring at the stars. There are so many of them, I can’t even describe it. It always makes me think about back “home” and what the sky is looking like. In a sense it’s Rockford, but while I was in Zinder at the hostel, I was thinking, “I should be getting back ‘home’, and I pictured by little gida here…. Strange.

I’m also looking forward to the rain for the AG season. I want to do work out there – not the bigger men’s fields, but I’m sure I’ll end up going out with the women where they grow their crops. Everything is ALWAYS separate here! Plus, it’s going to be so beautiful when things green up! There’s a nice big riverbed near the mesa that I’ve been told, will fill up. This should be awesome. Actually, speaking of mesas – there’s a really tall one behind Zermou, my friend pointed it out to me when I visited yesterday. We’re going to climb it sometime soon- (in the afternoon, I would think!) He’s actually the P.E. teacher as well(besides English), and was saying he taught on Mon and Wed in the afternoon. I was like “Geez, doesn’t that kill you?” You don’t feel hot?. But hey, I don’t know. I actually have no idea what the temperature is these days. They’ve got a thermometer at the hostel, but I always forget to check it. Just as well that I don’t. I was told it was 109F the other afternoon last week. It’s funny, but I have this attitude now of “Bring it on!!” I mean, once you’re living in 100 degree heat, 105 isn’t much different. The hotter it gets, you feel the difference less and less. Plus I’ll enjoy the cold season all the more for it!

Whoa, I just finished nalgene #6. It’s 2:45 pm and I haven’t even been moving much today! I just keep thinking about going back East when I came out here to Zinder. It felt like this distant future thing, like I would accomplish this great feat before I went back (living in the bush for 2 months) and now it’s 6 out of 8 weeks over, aah! That’s good and all, but I feel like I should have learned more by now, have better Hausa by now, or something. I don’t know. It’s just one day at a time here. For example: 2 days ago I was hearing SO much and having chats, etc, and yesterday sucked. I wasn’t getting much of anything of what my friend in Zermou was telling me, I hear words, and sometimes phrases, but the overall meaning was so lost to me – it was frustrating. Then again, he talks faster and reminds me that I should speak a little slower and grammatically correct when I speak to him. (or anyone really) Yeah, well, I think I shall return shortly. All this language stuff is making me think that it’s definitely time for me to go have my afternoon social session out at the village women’s area.

Well, that was encouraging! No, I’m actually not being sarcastic this time! I actually understood a lot this afternoon. I ended up staying out there till after 5 pm. I even got some of the jokes they did with each other! (wait – tomorrow I’ll hear nothing, hah!) Well, apparently I’m getting my hair braided and henna on my hands tomorrow. They’ve said this many times in the past, but we went into more detail this time and I asked several times when, where, etc. Because if we’re not, I want to go to Chewbaca’s village and borrow some books from him. I guess it makes sense, though, Thursday is their day to get all “prettied up” for the market on Friday. I always see them re-braiding, putting on new henna, washing their nice (matching) clothes, etc. Darn it! They are probably hoping that I’ll dress up again, ugh… Oh the things I will tell these girls when I have the language to do it. I had my friend tell me how to say things like: “In America, we have privacy”, and “I’m busy, that means you can’t watch”, etc. Actually the visit was really funny, you could tell I was really annoyed when I wrote it!

Well, anyhow, I can’t wait to get my photos to you! I’ve really been trying to take more – and do some descriptions so you know what is what, etc. I think I’m up to 112 so far, but it really doesn’t feel like much, considering on the 13th of May I will have been in country for 4 months now. That’s a weird thought – wow, I should be more adjusted for 4 months, ah! Well, ‘yu da gibe’ – sooner or later – I’ll get it all figured out here.

Well it’s time to go get cleaned up, and do some serious brushing through my hair for tomorrow. It’s a good thing I didn’t do my sunset-time jog, or I’d never get through my hair!

So let me know what’s happening! (as always) I’m so out of the loop of course, except for the random Time magazines and celebrity ones that we have at the hostel every now and then, but not usually all that current – hah!

Well, I’m going to study now - surf recipes. I’m definitely going to make some awesome baked goods with the dried cranberries (from that package – thank you so much!!), and I’m going to do some stargazing.

Love you……Miss you….. BROOKE

On her last visit to Niamey she was able to get online and upload some pictures to Yahoo Photo.

You can view them here: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bankareta/my_photos

Hi! I feel I must begin every piece of mail with an apology for the delay!

I am traveling to Zinder on Sat. only 48 hours away! I can’t believe it, parts of this month have been so fast, others so slow, just barely a month and my goodness! So much has happened! I wonder about all of you a lot lately, perhaps because I dug through my pics and put up many on the walls of my house. I think every woman and child in the area has come in to see them:) Anyhow, I've been thinking alot this morning about this place, about how I wish I could describe it in words that are fitting. Instead I find myself writing to -do lists, journaling and making letters which simply recap events, but do not express any deeper thought or observation. My notebook is never near or my pen is dead of course. But I'm kidding myself right? I mean, trying to connect the dots, or draw out the connections between my observations seems almost impossible (or maybe I lack the patience!)

When I try to describe this place to myself, random thoughts fly in, with no order. This is a land where pink and red go together, where "garbage" doesn't exist, where everyone is your mother, your father, every baby is yours to pick up, clean off (or slap around). A place where it is so hot, yet no one seems to drink, a place where my used and emptied tomato paste cans are a highly valued commodity. Where a husbandless woman is a mystery of nature. This is a place where it is OK to be old, it is good to be fat, and no matter what, everyone thanks God five times a day. This is the land of millet. Where time and food are the same thing. These concepts of security, comfort, and safety I have yet to understand (if I ever do). This is a place where you can tell someone to "be patient" and they won't curse back at you. The soil is everything. Your health is everything. A place littered with children and babies, yet everyone thinks there needs to be more... This place has the strongest women I've ever seen, yet many look like they are so fragile, they are so thin. At the same time they are so beautiful, and look almost untouched by their endless hours of hard labor. A place where men simultaneously revere and protect women and girls, yet exploit their caring natures, stifle their true capacity, and talk to them from several feet above. And of course, this is the land of plastic bags and pancakes in glass boxes.

This place has made me realize how fiercely independent and private I am. This is something I’ve always known, but now I am forced to stare it in the face and see it for what it is, the good and bad. This place has made me feel so empowered at times-stronger, more privileged; strangely special. My white skin has often served as a trump card, giving me entry to a world of “status” I haven’t done to deserve. This thing I both hate, and cherish at the same time.

Yet there are times when I feel I’ve been reduced to the intelligence of a small child (and treated like one) due to either language difficulty or cultural ignorance. And perhaps the hardest adjustment (and ironically the most unexpected for me) is the acceptance of the woman’s sphere, her life, her boundaries. I had never seen myself as a “feminist”, but simply being an American here is like being a woman’s right leader without even opening one’s mouth. Everything I do- from having long hair, sometimes wearing pants, giving my opinion to a man- or more than one, the way I walk- quickly, and with purpose. All of these things speak volumes whereas would go totally unnoticed in the west. Previously I just figured women only needed to be educated, perhaps simply encouraged to speak up. But I see now it is not so simple. Even a strong, intelligent and highly educated woman here is still a woman, still undeniably “female” within the confines of the culture. Her education, ambition, and power do not re-write the constructs that define women’s lives here. Not one woman alone anyway.

So, I will have to make my own path here ( as cliché as that is!), write my own boundaries, my own identity – the identity of a foreign, white, unmarried, working female – yet one that is not truly a guest. An identity that does not exist within the culture here. But this is a good thing J I realize it was something I was never forced to do back in the states. I didn’t have to take the initiative, I didn’t have to pioneer, I only had to follow suit, go with the flow. Here it will be necessary to truly establish identity, boundaries, all the fundamental concepts we take as just “being there”. Well, they’re not. So I guess it’s kind of exciting in a silly way thinking that I am creating a new cultural construct –both for myself and with the entire Nigerien culture around me. Man, it’s starting to get hot!

My mind wanders back to my village life, the market is tomorrow! I’ve really begun to enjoy Fridays, doing the shopping quickly and then relaxing in the shaded room at my NGO guy’s home. And speaking English! I can’t remember what I mentioned in my previous letter from Bankareta here, but I feel I’ve begun to build the beginning of some good relationships, just the beginnings- but I’m happy about that. This is in reference to both women in my village, and my NGO co-workers- and some of their friends – one especially. One of the market days they introduced me and Chewbaca to the English teacher in Zermou who was so helpful to us! He invited me and Chewy to see the school there. We finally went a few days ago, and it was great. We met the headmaster and the other teachers, who were all s happy we came. In the future I’m definitely going to do some activities with the students there! We sat in on our teacher friend’s English class. The students are well behaved and so eager, even though there are not even enough books to go around and they have one for every four or five. I was very happy to see girls about 10-13 years old as well – although they are only about 25-30% of the class…

The teacher also gave me a “Teach Yourself Hausa” book from Nigeria – the language is a bit different from what I learned, but this is good since the regional Hausa is so much closer to Nigerian Hausa. He is also going to come and visit me in Bankareta when I return from my “break” in Zinder. I am so lucky, and so grateful to have a friend – an English teacher no less, who actually is educated and understands. I already have a list of like 20 questions about Hausa to give to him. (He’s going to regret offering me and John his help!) Anyhow, I thought of Paul that day I saw the school, and it was on his birthday ! I hope you had a good one Wow, my villagers really are a trip. I just got back from visiting my Mai Gaii. He’s so funny. He’s trying to teach me- all stuff I already know, but I figure it makes him feel like he’s helping, plus he gets all excited when I repeat it back to him correctly. Sheesh…. Well, apparently the pump just ran dry. That’s nice; a bunch of girls just took off for the other hamlet to get water there by well. Luckily, my big water pot and filter and bucket were all full right before…I wonder how often this happens? I guess this would be the season for it – just a month or so before the rains start, it’s hot and it’s been along time since last season’s rain…People are starting to talk about rain. I can catch bits of conversations, about it, but today talk eventually goes to the market, since it is tomorrow. I love how every week they get all excited to ask me if I will go to the market, and every time I say “Yes, I am going, are you going?” And I know, of course they are. When I get back to the states I am really going to annoy everyone by stating the obvious and asking multitudes of redundant and unnecessary questions, ha! I really need to learn the Hausa equivalent for “no shit!” Unfortunately, there probably isn’t one.

Well, the sun is going down at last. It’s funny, the heat doesn’t really bother me, it’s just when it gets me tired that I’m actually annoyed by it. I’m not one for sitting on my bum all day, but it can be hard to work in the heat of the day. I’ve done it, it’s not that bad really, but you really put yourself at risk of dehydration. It’s so easy to lose too much H20 here, get dizzy, etc. You can drink 8 nalgenes a day and feel you didn’t drink much, crazy !!!Therefore, I’ve just been flying through books here, and surprisingly enough, I’ve been doing a fair amount of formal Hausa study with notes, books, etc. Here’s something funny.

Ok, so I think someone here “likes” me, but I’m not worried. I think he’s harmless. He is a school teacher that works at the school here in Bankareta. Not the one I mentioned previously, although they are friends- oh the irony…Well, about a week ago, he stopped in. I hear this “Good afternoon!” I was in the house, thinking, what? Someone from the NGO visiting me again? (Who else would speak English?) Well, it was this teacher fellow, he hung around for 5 or 10 minutes, acted kind of awkward, but was very respectful, kept his distance and didn’t even approach the house, so I figured it was fine. He’s been back a couple of times since. The first time was that very same day. He returns, and when he is going to leave, he says “I’m going to go and cook MY food now”. So is this the Nigerien male-way of trying to announce you are single? Because no man here is cooking if he is married. I wanted to laugh, but didn’t. Anyway he has dropped by a few more times since. Yesterday morning he stops in and my little friend Zelay is there (she is maybe 13-14), she is usually really chatty and full of questions for me. Well, she shut right up when he came in, he sees my new Hausa book and starts speaking in English to me. Zilay looked like she was either shocked, or wanted to giggle, and didn’t offer a word. We left shortly thereafter and we both looked at each other and sort of laughed. It’s just so much different here the way people act around each other – especially men and women.

Anyhow, another PCV came to visit last Sunday, and we both trekked over to John’s village to visit. We made soup and ate bread and played Uno and just chilled out for a few hours, that was really nice. I needed the break. Then one of the village ladies brought us a bowl of hara – at first I thought it was weird, but now I wish they’d offer it more often, I LOVE the stuff. Pretty much a millet drink with milk or water, sugar, spices. Or maybe it’s just that it’s a break from rice and beans. That’s basically what I eat here. Well, I do eat rice and beans, veggies, canned fish, my seitan mix, canned tomato paste (makes real good sauce), coffee, and that’s about it. Thank God for all my spices. Funny, though, I think even when I get to Zinder I’ll have to eat rice and sauce, it’s really a comfort food. I never really cared for rice before and now I eat it at almost every meal! I love the stuff!

Ok, well I am at market now. I’m chilling at the Aquadev office to rest a bit before I go to greet my village ladies. I left ahead of them today, with the younger girls, it was so funny. I wore my full Hausa gear today. Complete with head scarf and big wrap around the shoulders. They all were saying, “Yesterday you were American, today you are Hausa!” Ha-ha. Well, I can tell you, this is it, it’s too much to wear when it’s hot!! I mean it’s not that bad, but if I had the choice, I’d just as soon wear pants and a breezy t-shirt. Heck yes!! Tomorrow I am going to drink a cold soda!

Ok, seriously, this is starting to annoy me. Remember how I said I was too independent/standoffish? Well, I feel it right now. All I am trying to do is write and I feel like this dude will not stop telling me what I “need to do” to learn Hausa, etc. It’s really annoying me. But that’s OK. It would be alright if he listened, but he just goes on and on or asks questions and says “You don’t understand the question?” All the while I’m practically screaming and it feels like “Hello – shut up, I’m trying to answer you!” I’m telling you this is worse than being watched by the kids!! At least they don’t tell me what to do, they just stare with this wondrous look in their eyes. John here said maybe the dude just has a school boy crush and acts funny because of it. In that case I want to tell the guy, “Dude, this is why you are single – shut the hell up for a freaking second and LISTEN!!”

Perhaps I’m just cranky and need a break, that could definitely be the case. I’m hitting a language plateau, it’s hot, there’s tons of flies, and I’ve got uppity Nigerien men telling me my language isn’t as good as John’s. Thanks for the encouragement guys! I think I’ll close for now and head across the street to rest out the hot part of the market. Thank god I don’t have to do shopping today! I don’t think I’d have the patience for it with all the kids. But don’t get me wrong, I am so happy today, despite what I’ve just written. Just a lot of things have happened. Good things that I’m referring to! Sometimes it’s just easy to feel annoyed is all, and being stressed is NOT something you are supposed to show in public here, which makes it really hard. This is where I need a break comes in! Ha ha, soon enough my turn will come. At least I get one. These village folks never really get one, so I should be thankful. I MISS YOU ALL, LOVE YOU SO VERY MUCH. Hope you are well, I’ll talk to you soon! lovelovelove BROOKE

Hi everyone!

I’m sorry I think is has probably been awhile since I have written. In fact I don’t remember when exactly I last wrote. A lot of stuff has happened in the last few weeks. Stage was definitely beginning to feel LONG. The last 2 weeks took a long time, but we did some fun stuff. They took us to a nice restaurant in Niamey. Yuk! Karaoke! Did I already write this? Uh, I can’t remember….

Anyhow, swear-in and all that was really fun although exhausting. In fact, Ali, my NGO contact here for my village said he saw me on TV .Ah! I was sitting in the front row at the ceremony. Currently I am back in Bankareta, my village, where I’m living now. I’ve been here 8 days. I got here on the 25 or 26th I believe. Unless you’ve got a calendar on you, I swear the days just flow right together. Yes, you are probably wondering why it took so long for this letter to get to you. See, I have to go to Zinder to mail stuff, and for our first month at post, we’re supposed to stay the whole time without leaving (to get used to things) Alas, I’ll probably have to wait until my visit from the PC doc who is making the rounds around the 13-14th.Oh, well. I’ll be so glad to see him, speak English for a little while.

I really like my village, which is great. They are surprisingly chill, especially in light of me being the first volunteer (probably the first white foreigner for any of them). I actually just got back from doing my morning rounds-greeting. The Mai Gaii (village chief) said he wants me to go greet him every morning so that he can see me and see that I’m well. (especially since I was sick before first arriving)Of course the guy is really old with no teeth so it’s really hard to understand him but when I do, he’s hysterical, he just cracks me up.

All in all folks have been giving me the space I need which is GREAT. The first few days I had a lot of visitors which is understandable, but I find that if I go out to greet everyone, they don’t all feel the need to come and greet me which works out fine. The women are so busy anyways. They come and greet me, say a few things and leave. The younger kids pretty much stay away (I don’t keep hardly any stuff that might be new or novel out). But the pre-teen unmarried girls like to come and hang out.

If I had more language it would be great, because they are really a target group to reach as far as discussing major issues: like early marriage, education, family planning, work, etc. And anything I say they –eat it up. So it’s hard. Part of me wants them to just get the hell out and not sit and stare at me while I’m trying to read, journal, etc. Part of me is thinking: they just want to learn. A few have actually said, “Teach us this/that”. “Teach us English”. I felt bad when I kind of brushed off some of the girls one of my first nights here when I said, “I have a headache, I’m going to rest”, and then I ignored them. One girl said something to the tune of, “May God make it better.” Then I felt guilty because she looked honestly concerned. Oh well.

It’s so funny how ANYTHING I say or do here makes conversation fodder for days. I went walking one afternoon and the whole place was buzzing and everyone was asking me, “You went walking right?” They LOVE to state the obvious. One of my favorite greeting they throw in is INA ISKA? (How is the wind?) or INA ZAHI? (How is the heat?) And you reply, “There is wind, or “it’s that time” for the heat.

I won’t lie though. Probably about the 3rd day it started dawning on me: Holy crap, you live here now. What the heck are you going to do? Day in and day out. It’s never going to end, dear God. But I took a walk later, drank a bunch of water and realized it only really feels that way when you’ve been doing the same thing all day, and the dehydration doesn’t help. I’ve realized diversification of daily activities is the key. PLUS, after the first month is over there aren’t official policy rules on time in the village. If you need to go in to your hostel for medical, work, meetings, or just to chill a bit it is totally cool. I think just knowing that is what really makes all the difference. That way you don’t feel the pressure and will probably spend more of your time out in the bush anyway. So yeah. Plus, I’ve also seen the longer I’ve been here, (I’m laughing now since it’s only been 8 days), that there is actually a lot of work; up-keep, just daily maintenance to be done. Even for me,-and I’m not doing half the work the women here have to do. Just sweeping takes time-there’s so much wind right now. It’s “the time” LOL. So I probably sweep the house 3x/day. If it’s not crazy wind, I sweep the concession-well, at least my “porch” part – once a day. It’s hard too, you really get a workout. It’s this stick bundle thing and you have to sort of squat because it is only a foot and a half long. I’ll be so fit by the time this thing is over! Ha!

Eventually I plan to get the whole concession looking really good, but it’s a ridiculous amount of work, just removing large rocks, excess sand took me about 2 hours, by my bare hands, a plastic bag and a bucket. And that was only about 10-20% of the concession. So this will definitely be an ongoing project. I’m going to put a garden in, too at some point although I’ll start pepinieres first. I brought a bag of gum Arabic seeds with me and plastic pots.

I’ve sort of made a few plans as far as integrating and getting language goes. I do greeting each morning, and then try to spend 2 hours of social time each day with my villagers-OUTSIDE of my house. I found a spot where the women chill out n the afternoons, so I go and sit there and observe and listen, and sometimes try to engage in conversation, mostly just trying to understand stuff they ask me. Yesterday, this old lady, Aisha, told me that I didn’t need to wash my own clothes and that Zilay (teenage girl who is always visiting me) would wash them for me. And I understood! Like the first time she said it. I WAS SO EXCITED. It’s actually pretty hilarious. I sit there with my pen and notebook and write down questions, things to look up, the way they express certain things, etc and figure it out when I get back home. It’s nice there, shady, windy, and women weave, pound millet, sometimes braid each other’s hair, or do henna on their hands and feet. I’m like the anthropologist taking notes or something. I actually designated this other part of my notebook for that-just observations on what people do, when, why-if I know, things to look for, etc. I figure it will really come in handy later on when I try to start projects.

Speaking of that, you would not believe, but my NGO guy-Ali from Aquadev, came to visit. OK, cool. Then he tells me about work he wants me to do-the NEXT day. He is so casual about it. Oh, just hold a meeting each week about this and that project and then get back to me. I tried not to laugh. He’s like, “OK, everything cool? No problems? You can talk to people right? It sort of pissed me off; he was kind of high and mighty about it. He of all people around here should understand. He can speak some English; he went to college in Nigeria and understands learning a foreign language. Then he sputters stuff off in Hausa really fast and says, “Oh, I guess there is more to learn?” I’m like, yeah, no shit. Anyway, when he came the next day I was prepared and showed him all the handbooks and info I had on environmental projects and told him I was really looking forward to doing them WHEN I had the language to do so. He said no problem. But I don’t think he really got it. Plus, he was setting up projects for the village to do on a really tight schedule. Things don’t happen that fast here. It’s NOT going to happen. 1 project a week? I wanted to tell him he was INSANE, but he is Nigerien, and I’m the one with little language. It surprises me that he thinks the villagers are just going to jump up and do these projects: like the composts pits. I could teach them, but not NOW. He said Oh, they will start today on it. I was like, OK, who will, when, do they know how to do it, what they need? Have they been saving vegetable waste? Do they understand the importance of why they are doing it, how to keep it up?, etc. Part of me thinks I’ll be the one trying to get the NGO to learn that stuff ironically. Hah. Needless to say, I saw no movement towards filling the compost pits that day. Ha ha.

Anyhow, I went to the market Friday and, whoa, was that interesting. Pretty much mobbed everywhere I went. Bought mangoes and the kids (about 30 of them) were around me completely! The sellers were saying, “Go away kids!” It was funny. Luckily John, my neighbor PCV went along with his villagers so it took a lot of pressure off to have someone else white (English-speaking) there. It was a LONG day. I went with the women who make food and have to sell there (like snacks or meals-street food). Men bring beans, mangoes, some animals. Some other women brought tomatoes and tea leaves. I sat with them for a long time at the “stand” which consists of setting up under a shade hanger or tree, sitting on big bags, and spreading your stuff out in front of you on more bags, or in these BIG enamel pots. We stayed ALL DAY, uh… that’s a lot of immersion for one day. Especially at a place with so many people all day who are watching my every move. Next time I’m bringing a book, more water, and going to the AQUADEV office, or Ali’s house to take a breather part-way through. Lots of good stuff at the market, though, it’s quite big and folks didn’t try to rip me off-surprisingly!

This whole language thing is QUITE a process though, let me tell you. When I am trying to look up words, I see all kinds of words for things, or ideas, ones we don’t have specific words for in English. It’s very interesting to see how language reflects culture in that way. But it is also a bit overwhelming, I think, I’ll never learn it. But then I see volunteers who’ve only been here 6 months before me and they can get around pretty well, and understand most of what folks say to them, so I know I’ll get it eventually. Yes, the hard part is people here don’t understand the idea/concept of stress-or being overwhelmed. It’s just a cultural difference maybe-at least not in the way that we understand it. They’ll just say-“Oh, how is the tiredness?” AAH, I’m not tired, ok? I’m just not a museum display! (OK, that one really only applies to the market, etc.-folks here don’t mob me ! I figure I’ll just keep on truckin, and I’ll get it , slowly slowly.

My neighbor Say-ida, is so sweet. The other day someone said, “She doesn’t understand, there’s no Hausa”. And she said, “No! She hears Hausa!” Kind of joking, but it’s still nice. I’m trying to learn to speak how they do, too, not just to get a point across, but get the rhythm down, too. It’s hard, the Hausa here is FUNKY! It’s going to be so funny when I’m at an NGO meeting in the future and say, “Hey y’all! How ya doin? How’s that there treating ya? Mighty-fine!” Can you imagine? And the fact that I’m white will make it all the funnier, but we’re out in the bush and there’s a very strong “bush” slang-accent. It has reduced what I previously learned A LOT, but I try to write everything down, and study it later, so I AM learning, luckily. Anyhow, I do miss my friends from Stage though. At times it would be nice if I had a phone. Darned Ali wants me to get one (Argh…then he’ll want me to do more work that I have no language for!) I just won’t tell him when I get one-ha ha ha. I could text people really cheap.

I wonder about how other new volunteers-how they are doing, how their villages are. I can’t wait to see my friend the 23rd. It’s hard since some of my good friends from Stage are WAY out in Zarma land. I won’t see them until IST training May 20. Probably even less often after that. Ah well, actually, this is funny. We are planning an event to get lots of PCV’s way out here to Hausaland. John’s idea-we are going to celebrate International Talk Like a Pirate Day on Sept 10. We definitely have an interesting group here, and luckily I like most of them.

Darn wind!! Makes me feel like-what’s the point of trying to clean anything? Uh, well, I cover most everything in the house. And I put a plate as a lid over my water pot (which everyone here does). I took a big sheet and cut it up for all sorts of uses: covering books, a bucket that I keep my pots in, and my water filter, etc. They are going to do more work on my roof, too-probably when I’m gone for a bit of training in end of May. I’m thinking I need to move my bed, too, so I can see the night sky when I go to sleep. I’ll have to get some big sticks as posts to hold my net over the bed. Another project to keep me busy:) That and I’m going to attempt to learn to carry H20 on my head. I did it once a few days ago, with a bucket about ¾ full. But it was HARD! It didn’t hurt my head, but my arms were so sore trying to keep it from spilling- and it didn’t! The women here can cruise around with even bigger buckets than mine, plus a baby on their back and not even hold onto it with a hand. Amazing. That and all the work they do with a kid on their back, so much endurance. I want to learn all this stuff, so I am trying to do it slowly-they feel I’m a guest and they’re always saying, “oh, no sit down, we’ll get it. We’ll wash it. We’ll… It’s nice, but I tell them, Ok, but later I’m going to the pump so I can learn. I’ll be here for 2 years, etc.

It’s been interesting as well attempting to learn names. I’ll get it, it’s not too hard-but figuring out how people are related seems next to impossible. I see Zilay at different people’s houses, doing work, so I’m not even sure which family’s place is hers. Luckily I’ve figured out where many of the women’s homes are. I just don’t know which kids are theirs, and who they are married to. Plus a LOT of men are off in Nigeria right now during hot season for work, $. Besides, husbands and wives don’t hang out here-like EVER- it seems. Except at night after the last prayer, after dark-for dinner. Which they still don’t eat together. The women have already eaten, the kids, too. Then they give the men food, and they sit off a little ways away and talk a little bit, and that’s it. Crazy. Once I get language it will be interesting to talk about how different things are in the U.S.

Oh, and I’ve also been trying to figure out how the village grows here-it seems the younger women’s concessions are on the edges of the village. Of course the village is actually 3 separate hamlets. I guess at one time a family moved away (it’s only a block to the edge of the next town), and started their own hamlet-which grew. I’m going to try to do a more extensive tour as well and figure out where all the resources are. Like folks who sell stuff, make stuff, the garden where the tomatoes are grown, etc. I’ve also walked out to near the big mesas and there is a deep gorge right before you hit them-it’s really beautiful. I went IPOD-walking yesterday and took some photos as well.

I want to know what’s going on in Rockford! Well, and just what is going on in general, too, news, etc, GOSSIP, HAHA. I have busted out my crank radio which works great! I love it. I don’t always get US news, even Voice of America often is on US foreign policy. Any news, or radio music/talk I get I enjoy greatly, but it would be nice to hear about what’s going on right now in the U.S. and how folks are doing. Mom’s dizziness is working itself out, and is Paige’s college plan still going? Kyla and research paper? (and Bob-Ha!) I got emails from you all though which is awesome, thanks ! It is hard to comprehend that it is “Spring Break” there. The concept of seasons here is just so much different. It’s just hot all the time, although we’re definitely into hot season now, it really isn’t bothering me much. I just get up early, 6-ish, and do active stuff before 10-11, then I sit, socialize, eat,etc. Then do an afternoon walk, trek through the sand 5pm, it’s not bad at all. Plus the wind. I’ve been cooking up some interesting food, too, most of it’s been real good, of course, I’m starting to get “low” on all the expensive items you can only get in Zinder (oatmeal, etc). So I’ll be having to be really creative with what I can get at the market. Actually a great variety, but there isn’t any quick, snack foods here. You can buy them, but it’s gone in 1-3 days, so why bother? Rather save room in my sack for stuff that’ll last, plus I’ve got to carry it 2k. So yeah.

I’m going to have a cold soda on April 23rd, it’s going to be so awesome. I’m going to buy a jar of olives, some store-crackers, some apples, I can’t wait. Then I’m going to watch a movie! Speaking of odd beverages, though, the water actually stays really cold believe it or not. These clay water pots are great, plus they dig down a few inches which helps retain the coldness. I actually have to set out some water hours ahead of time to heat up a little for bathing. Even in the heat of the afternoon, it’s still too cold for comfort. Amazing. Ah, I was cleaning just now and found gum in my purse! Praise Allah! What a nice surprise. I feel I should save it for a rainy day (Hah, like that’s ever going to happen-maybe in a month and a half or so). This place is really going to be pretty when things green up. Out east here there’s so many awesome rock formations-huge ones, and occasional river and stream beds and tree groves. I assume they’ll fill up when the rainy season hits. Yes…

Oh, yes, one of the elderly ladies asked about your health, mom. I told her you were well ! Water, more water-it’s amazing how much you have to drink here. I feel like I need way more than I was drinking before. I could just sit when it’s mid-day and drink and read/write/and study forever! Before I was cursing PC for giving us so much crap-so many manuals, pamphlets, etc. But I’ve already read through parts of some of them. Even the exiting policy handbook. At least a lot of it is useful stuff, like the technical information and environmental stuff. I’m glad I brought so many books. Finished 2 Tom Robbins novels since getting here. Seems to be a popular author in the country. I’ve met several other PC’s who also love Tom Robbins! I’m very grateful for the libraries of each transit house/hostel. What a great idea.

So much I want to do, but inhibitions, mostly because of language. I guess eventually it all comes down to language-communication rather. One could say things, but not be integrated, there’s so much non-verbal communication, expressions, ways of communicating that I want to learn, appropriate contexts, responses, comments, etc. I think that’s the key to having people feel comfortable-truly, with me and trust me. I just see so many possibilities, I have to be patient and know that I have all the time in the world.(literally) to get used to how it is, and learn. And of course keep AQUADEV off my back in the meantime. Heck, a new stage will come in July, I believe, and then I won’t even be the new-bie anymore. Woo-hoo! I really do hope, though that our stage hasn’t lost anyone. Some of my favorite people were the ones that left from ours, for various reasons. I guess it’s an idea that does enter everyone’s head at some point or another. Even under stress, I see so many more benefits in staying than in going, and the stress will pass. It always does. This place really forces you to be simultaneously pro-active and patient. Then again, I suppose that’s how one adjusts to any foreign culture. Everything on some level, seems ridiculous and completely contradictory.

Mmm… bleached cabbage. Yumm… bought it to make some food. Should I make macaroni and cabbage in red sauce or rice and canned sardines? Should’ve soaked beans-argh…Last night I made seitan and it actually came out well!

Anyhow, I bet the package you all sent is at the post now, only I won’t get it until I get back. I promise I’ll mail regularly after my PC imposed don’t leave for a month is over! Maybe I can send this letter with Ali if I see him before someone else comes through. If not, be patient, haha.

So let me know how everyone is, and what’s going on! If there are any recent pics that would be awesome, too! I like to receive anything in the mail!!!

Miss you all so much, think of you all the time, write soon---

Love,

Brooke

March 10: 2006 Dear Kyla (Friday) I just got a letter from you on Tuesday. and then on thursday. J I'm so glad to hear that things are going so well with Bob, its awesome to know something is for sure, and then you can really just "be happy" since you're not reserving part of yourself and thinking, wondering about stuff (if that makes any sense at all). It's crazy that I "swear-in" in one week! It will have been done by the time you get this, actually I will prolly be at my village (Bankareta) by the time you receive this letter. Everything is going well, although I have had a few stresses recently. Like one of my best friends in country went back to the U.S. She just decided that this wasn't for her. On a better note! (Plus, I just had coffee J that always helps the mood right??) I went and picked up my awesome compile(?) at the tailor's on Sunday, last. a tailored skirt, shirt, and headwrap J A bunch of us ladies went together, and the tailor actually altered them right there on the spot so it fits really well J It's fancy, but not too much, so I can still wear it in my village if I'm running a meeting, or for holidays, etc. I'm excited for tonite too. J The trainers are taking us to Niamey to a nice restaurant, and there is karaoke there! I'm gonna branch out and try "oysters and sauteed salad loaf" whatever that is….heh. Then we've got a soccer match, ping pong matches, volleyball, etc. Then we have got more stuff happening in Niamey, some kind of a fancy auction, and then our Swear-In. Me and some of the girls are gonna spend that day at the Embassy's rec center, we're buying juice and snacks and sodas and gonna sit by the frickin pool and paint our nails, listen to the music, tan, etc. Heck yes, it will NEVER happen again, right??? – there's a cocktail hour, then swear-in ceremony, then a restaurant, drinks, dancing, etc. afterwards, CRAZY – but its good that we will be in Niamey cus I can check email, or maybe even write some emails! (once we are real PCVs, we are allowed to use the internet, etc. resources J ). Then 2 days later its off to our villages, ah! Alewai tsoro! Any more news on mom? She was telling me a few weeks ago back when we had that phone call that there were all these tests being done, its hard to not really know what's going on – and to find out so much after the fact. Luckily there is internet in Zinder – only a lil over an hour from my village. Oh yeah, when do you actually have to strat on your research paper? would that be this fall??? I can't remember from you letter, which is not on me of course at the moment. Frickin flies! Afternoon here is the time for flies, or else I never really notice any bugs at all, I mean cus I use a mosquito net but I've never noticed ANY mosquitos – that type of thing. The other thing is the wind. Even thought it annoys the crap out of me, all the sand blocks the sun and makes it A LOT cooler. In fact I've been going jogging lately around 6pm, works quite well, I'm gonna do it while I can B4 hot season really kicks in (and its definitely starting). Ah yes, and now it's Saturday, but hey. We went to Niamey last night and didn't end up eating dinner til close to 9pm. No afternoon snack L Babu kyau! My blood sugar was so low I thought I was going to pass out. They were like, oh, be patient. I find patience is very easy here except when it comes to food. If you tell me I have to wait 8 hours to eat and I'm dizzy, I am NOT going to be nice. When the food finally came it was coated in meat sauce, oh well, we were a BIG group and I know how hard that can be for a restaurant. Then we did karaoke which was actually pretty entertaining. In fact, group by group, PCVs kept on pouring in and joining us. I guess they're in town early for swear-in and related festivities. So it was a pretty entertaining evening actually and I talked to a lot of cool folks J. It's hard to believe only 3 more nights at my adoptive family's home. Then we're gonna spend a few nights up here til the week is out. Me and some of the girls made a plan to try to get up real early the day after swear-in to check our email at the Bureau thinking that no one will be up early with all the party the night before. In any case, we should have a fun time J. I can't wait to get all dressed up, although I need some shoes, I don't want to wear my CRAPPY flip flops with my nice clothes. hah. Last time I'll care about that!Off to the bush after this! except for the random get-togethers that will occur. We're gonna have a "Pirate" party in Zinder in September for "International Talk Like a Pirate Day" or something I dunno. I'll definitely try to send some pics as soon as I have some cds and the ability to burn pics onto them – plus, just more pics in general, I've actually only taken maybe 40..or 45? When you go to the same place most of the time, there just isn't opportunity, but with all this crazy stuff upcoming I think we'll have some fun photo-ops. Anyways, tell mom and Paul and Chuck to write! So I can know what's going on with everyone. I'll email as soon as possible and if I end up getting a phone I'll let someone know ASAP as well. Anyhow, hope to hear from you soon again. J And START saving $ to come see me! You're going to. (get Paige to come too! and maybe to help with the money, haha) so start thinking about it. I've already decided you guys are going to! At least next year if not this one J. Hope all is well. Love love love love BROOKE

HOWDY FOLKS! Get a cup of coffee; this is going to be a ridiculously long and drawn-out letter. This has got to be the first time I’ve written a letter with about 10 pairs of eyes staring at me. Well, OK< now they are gone, but I’m sure they will be back. Everyone just LOVES to come by and see what the new white girl is doing. So yes, I’m in my village-well, just visiting for 3 days and then I’ll finish 2 more weeks at stage in Hamdy. It’s a really pretty village here; quite clean compared to most other places I’ve been. And a LONG way away to get here.

Holy crap- Zinder is Far! We left Sun. am with 17 people and all their stuff, plus a cook stove and water filter for each. The stuff on the magic bus must have been piled up 10 feet high. We dropped people off as we went.

We had a flat tire about an hour before Konni, so we stopped an hour or so. At Konni we stayed the night since PC vehicles aren’t supposed to drive overnight. We meant to make it to Maradi by 7pm. But hey, this is Niger. Konni is a fun place and I knew the folks from my previous visit out East. The only downer was apparently Maradi had made us a big awesome meal, drinks, and (rumor has it)-jello shots. I think those are nasty. People say Maradi PCV’s are the best cooks in the country.

Anyhow, we finally made it out to Zinder Mon. evening and had nice welcome, lots of nice folks there and the hostel is definitely the BEST in the country. Everything (evxept the beds of course) is INSIDE!! They even have 2 bathrooms with running water! Sinks, toilets, a shower, and a bathtub.! WOW. Lots of living space, a DVD player, and a library. We just pay small dues every few months to help out. Plus, you can take language lessons or by mags or reading material. Nice!

So we got a tour of Zinder on Tues. went to market. I bought some buckets, some food, a lantern, and what have you. I also went with John (my closest neighbor here) to see the Director of AQUADEV.- an NGO we’ll both be working with. We’re both opening villages here and he’s only 5K away from me. Nice. His new name is Chewbaca! They gave me a new name here. I am Salameye. (pronounced SA-LAH-MAY).

So I think this is probably my biggest challenge yet, but it’s been good. What, 14 hours so far…My neighbor Hadira is great. Actually, my house wasn’t quite finished, although the rest of it was pretty much done. I have walls, yippee! My roof, doors, and cement floors. It’s a really nice space. I’ll have room to garden a bit in my concession. So right now I’m staying in my neighbor’s concession- Hassira and Mamou. Hassira is awesome, she has the nicest smile and I definitely feel alright being in this space with her and her husband. I met the Mai Gari this am, too. (Like a chief – or mayor). I didn’t get half of what he said, but hey, it’s all good. There is one guy that can speak a little English, probably as well as I can speak French. He actually said, “It’s hard living in the bush, sannu, sannu”. Little by little, you’ll get it. So that was encouraging.

This morning I actually made coffee-REAL coffee. The stuff I brought from home! With a bandana of course. My water filter doesn’t seem to be working, so I just bleached a bucket full and I figure I could be boiling it as well. Of course, I’m only here till Fri am so this won’t be too bad, after all it takes amoebas a few days to gestate so if I do get sick it can’t happen till I get back to Zinder. Ha ha ha! No, it’s all good, I think I’ll be fine. I went out with John who came over with a dude from his village, to find the pump. It’s awesome, no pulling water from a million meters away! Although, it’s a good walk with a freaking heavy bucket on my head. I’ll learn eventually. They said they’d teach me. Teach me Hausa-well teach me everything, right? The pump is new, too-2003 by Aquadev. I was impressed that the villagers have been keeping it very clean. Plus the NGO put a big cement wall around it! Oftentimes they don’t and the area gets really dirty, especially if it’s a well, and not a pump. However, there seems to be a lot of effort in this village which is great.

I think the only hard part (really hard part) is dealing with folks who come and sit there and look at you or expect you to sit and talk when you really understand about 5-10% of what they say. Uh…oh well..

Actually, I now just got back from a meeting with the men of the village, and a woman’s leader. There’s a men’s committee and a women’s committee. Ali is from Aquadev and he had everyone come out so he could explain me and my work with the NGO, objectives and so on. Of course, right during the middle of it some cattle started fighting and about half the meeting (the younger men) got up and ran out into the fields!

Then we finally got done and I came back here to my gida. It’s hard to be alone, especially since I don’t have my own concession right now. There’s absolutely NO privacy at any time of day or night. People just walk right in. But hey, at least they are all really nice. I suppose I could always go to my future gida and hide in the bathroom! (The only place where I wouldn’t have people pouring in) Ha ha ha!. Maybe tomorrow I will get someone to take me to John’s village so I can waste sometime there. You really have to spread out the work and activities here, especially when you lack communication skills. It’s sort of encouraging and frustrating at the same time. I hear LOTS of words, some phrases, and when I am at Hamdallaye I can speak a fair amount with the staff. But here and in the bush it’s completely different. Folks don’t slow down that much, or change things to say it in the way I would understand. But hey, I’ll get it eventually.

Holy crap- I think 5 minutes has gone by without someone coming in to sit and watch me! I guess I should really be focusing now on just going around to greet people. On Friday it’s going to be fun to hear the other PCT’s stories. We (all four of us) are gong back to Zinder, to the hostel on Fri. Unfortunately, we don’t get to take the magic bus, and have to hoof it to town and then catch bush taxis. I’m just glad I’m so close-only a mile or 2! Yes….then me and Robin are going to get wine, chocolate, olives, coffee, and make food and celebrate our return. Actually, I already have the wine (boxed, but hey-) and olives. The only real splurge I’ve made here. That and the tailoring for my swear-in outfit. The whole thing-fabric and tailor was around $5.00 or so. That’s a lot in Niger. I could get a couple weeks groceries on that- and eat well, too. Crazy huh???

Oh, shoot, more people are here. Ok, these girls were just here like 10 minutes ago. But hey, watching a white person sit and write a letter must rate really high on the entertainment scale here. Oh, well.

So I’ve started to wonder what is going on back in the US. I don’t really have any clue what is going on right now, no clue. I heard something about Dick Cheney shooting a hunting buddy or something. I don’t really know. Did manage to get on the internet once, but only had about 5 minutes.

Maybe I should take a head count: what – 9 people in here! All I want to do is eat my lunch, but I don’t want to in front of everyone, because I’ll get 100 questions and possibly no food for myself. I’ll have to figure out some sort of strategy for getting rid of people when I get into my own concession. Like: when the door is closed, you CAN’T come in. I don’t think I’ve had more than 5 or 6 feet of space from people since arriving. AAAAH!! Maybe that wine will have to be busted into early. I bet my Hausa will be just great then! For now I just sweat and fend off flies. Afternoon seems to be the worst time for them. However, I don’t really notice much at night, or mosquitoes either. Wow, it’s only 3pm-this has got to be the longest day of my life!

I’m thinking I should start a list of things I should try to do. Then maybe I can just start to try one thing at a time. The women tend to wear these funny-looking big muumuu shirts. They’re pretty frumpy, but must be great as hot season is coming on real quick here. I’m thinking I’m going to have to get into some native dress. That and getting up early and going out to greet, etc. Maybe I’ll even make a rule about no visitors during the afternoon-like it’s “resting time” or something. I’ll just buy a ton of padlocks, hahaha. Sorry, I’m sure I’ve gone on about this forever, I just don’t have much to do now except chill here, it’s still too hot to try and tour the village. I know the hordes of village kids will be happy to take me. No doubt there will be a parade by the time we’re done!

Ok, so now it’s Thursday. This is definitely one roller coaster ride, but hey that’s how it is, and I haven’t lost it yet! Although I did tell some kid yesterday, “For the love of God, leave me alone!”(In English-I didn’t think it would be a great idea to say it in Hausa). I really like my host Hasira. I shared some coffee with her this am, and then we went out and greeted a bunch of village folks as “practice”. Amazing. I especially liked meeting the elderly ladies-they got sooo excited when I said just a few simple greetings. They go on forever...Madalla, madalla!! (Great, great, or something akin to that). So I think this will be a daily morning thing. Even though my house wasn’t done, I got a chance to be around Hasira more, so I’ll have a contact when I come back. But man oh man, I’m definitely going to go and take advantage of the staff language help back at Hamdallaye. I’m going to try to spend all my free time talking and listening and more time with the host family, too. Geez, I hope no one freaks out and early terminates on us. I am a bit worried about that. We’re working a support plan out to keep folks together, so all should be well.

I can’t believe how NICE it is way out here in boofoo! Not much trash, and everyone sweeps the hell out of their concessions; so much effort. Plus, I found the spot where women chill out during the real hot hours-under these trees. They sit on these sacks left over from grain. They weave these baskets out of millet stalks, even the little girls. I’m hoping to go hang out there a lot and practice talking and maybe weaving or something. Apparently the women want to braid my hair today, too. I said, I have a LOT of hair, but they didn’t seem to mind. I guess I’m the only one sans braids around here. I’ve got to get a gift or something for Hasira, although I didn’t bring much of anything, but maybe that’s my American mentality. Of all my “basic survival” stuff, any of it would probably make one fantastic gift here.

The women here don’t have nearly as much “curve” as those in the city or big villages-and there’s a reason for it. They all are pretty buff, though with all the work.

I am back at Hamdallaye right now alive and pretty well. I went to Niamey today and picked up my beautiful skirt and shirt and head wrap. I ended up paying more for it, but it was an expensive design with elastic and gathering and what have you. Then when we were heading home I had what was my worst transport experience here so far. We got in a bush taxi back to the village, but had to wait 90 minutes in there sweating and dehydrated till it filled up (they crammed over 20 people in there; 5 to a row). And it’s only the size of a regular mini van! At one point I broke down and bought a bag of water, so did my friend, Emily. Oh, well, I’d rather drink Niamey tap water than get all dizzy and cranky on the taxi. All smiles after that

I guess that’s it for now. Oh, wait, I take that back about the bush taxi.

The only regular ride from my market town, Zermou, is a truck that leaves in the morning and at night, so you have to ride up on top. On top of the roof on top of all the crap they put up there. Me and John got on last so we didn’t have much in the way of stuff to hold on to…..Squatting and grabbing on for dear life for an hour + straight through the bumpy bush to Zinder. That was ‘FUN’. In the future, I think I’ll try to go into Zinder when the NGO cars go by; if they do…Only 12 days to swear-in! I’ve got to learn more Hausa right now! Love you all, write you again-

Brooke

Paigely,

Salamu alaikim!

Howdy! What’s going on? Well, it Wed. aft.-2pm-the hottest time of day. Akwai zahi dahana! (Freakin hot!) Well, no not that bad really. It is getting to be the end of the cold season, so I am not wearing long sleeves to bed anymore. At first I did and used a sheet and heavy blanket. But now I don’t. It’s funny; too you don’t use an alarm clock here. If the prayer call around 6-6:30 doesn’t wake you the sun will. It’s not bright or hot or anything at 7 am, but if it’s light when I get up, I know I’m running a bit late for training. So I’m guessing that mom will pass around the other letters I send to the house. I figured it will be easier to just write everyone en-masse for the most part. So I’m trying not to re-tell stuff I probably said in those letters. Huh.

Well, I must say that I am quite proud of myself for today I went and watered by baby trees (seedlings) AND explained to my host dad that I would do it fast while mom was getting breakfast from a vendor on the town’s main road. I came back, bought coconut slices from a vendor, did stretches, greeted my host mom, and made luke-warm bush coffee. Yum. Then we did a demonstration to village women here about improved cook stoves. It was really to show us how to do it when we get out to our villages. Then I came back, soaked some dirty clothes, cleaned by gida (hut), and slept my gida and my concession (the courtyard-ish area enclosed by mud brick wall that goes around my gida).

Presently, I am lying on my *new* woven matt of reeds (millet stalk I think)), that I bought at the weekly market which was yesterday. 650 CFA, a little over a dollar US. I think I might have gotten ripped off by about 15 cents though. Ha ha! It’s funny; our “walk around” allowance while in training is 15,000 CFA every 2 weeks. That’s about $30 or so every 2 weeks, I think. It will be 3 or 4 x that when we get to our post, plus they give us 110,000CFA as a special extra amount to help set up with the stuff we need like mats, buckets, lanterns, pans, stock cooking supplies, etc. Speaking of that, I am going to have SOOOO much fun experimenting with cooking and stuff when I get out to post. I’m planning on making a mud-cook stove and also starting an herb and vegetable garden, among other projects. I figure while I’m trying to get better language skills (Hausa) and get integrated, I can work on stuff like that.

So I’m so excited because tomorrow we get to find out where we’ve been posted! Actually, from the whole afternoon on it’s going to be a bit of a celebration. We’ll have site announcements and information distribution, a cocktail hour, and dinner up in the training site. (We usually eat with our families- so yeah!) Then on Friday we are going to Niamey and having a tour of places: the embassy, the pc hostel, landmarks, the grand Marche, etc. It will mean that after Friday, we will have the freedom to go to Niamey by ourselves (leave town). Although we are forbidden from leaving for the night.

I just remembered that I have to go back to the tailor’s today to pick up and pay for my shirt and head wrap. Oh, well, I am going to head that way anyhow to go and water my plants, and to pick up a kossum as well (yogurt in a bag). Yep, that’s definitely the most exciting part of my day. Then today is a big washing day- as in washing my hair. Hah! Actually regular bucket bathing works really well and you get quite clean quite fast. It’s nice and refreshing.

I’m really loving this new mat though-before I had nothing to sit on but my bed which was fine and all, but if I wanted to really spread out with homework or anything the sand made it difficult. There is SAND EVERYWHERE! So yeah… that and flip flops. I'd say those two things facilitate life here quite well. You really can’t take part in daily life here without flip flops. People are going on and off of mats and you have to take your shoes off, so thus, flip flops. It’s awesome-I love how mobile mats are. You just park it wherever and set up shop. Men gather and brew tea and talk outside of their families concessions and women tend to gather inside. (Where more WORK is going on, of course). Yeah, women do work quite hard here. I mean, everyone does, but it’s definitely a workout-just the regular daily life. Pulling water (or you pay someone to bring it), washing dishes, cooking, cleaning kids (although every kid you see 95% of the time is SO dirty), laundry, sweeping, etc. Actually it is very time consuming and hard because it’s outside-like raking the lawn, but it is sand, debris, animal crap, leaves, etc. and it’s your living room so you can’t NOT do it.

I must say there are times when my family’s concession looks real nice, too. They’ve got a tapestry they put under the main rug which is outside under a hangar—open air; shade. That’s where any social stuff, eating, relaxing, guests, etc. happens.

Ugh, see, I can’t even really attempt to explain how it is here. The good thing is that I can burn pics to a cd and send it to you all and I’ll send a note explaining what the shots are. Of course, I don’t know when this will happen.

Oh, yeah the ipod, radio, etc and solio are all working real well, easy to use, etc. :) It was so funny-right as I’m getting ready to wash my stuff I hear “Americans” so I’m sticking my head on tip toes over my concession wall at the shower area. It was 2 of my friends. (Well, ha ha I guess all the Americans here are because I know them all. They said “Whoa, you are showering, um….” I’m like NO-I’m just doing laundry here because it’s easier. It was so funny. I should do some studying as well, the clock of training is ticking…We get sworn-in on March 17th. Ah! That’s a month away-Plus; we have “live-in”- a week @out new village in 1.5 weeks from today. I am compiling a list of very crucial things to know as far as language goes. The rest will come, sannu sannu. Wata sana zani jim Hausa dayima. (One day I’ll be good @Hausa!)

I obviously could blab about Niger forever. I feel like I’ve told everyone about .05% of how it is here, I guess that’s the nature of a culture, you have to visit to experience it. I told Kyla, too-I know you’d LOVE to visit here! It’s expensive for the ticket, but after that? Nothing! My place is free, and everything else costs close to NOTHING in US$. Hell, you can buy a camel for about $200 or less, maybe I’ll get some animals, ha-ha-Open up Brooke’s (excuse me-Rahina’s) Anasara (white person) Dairy Co. HAHA.

So I want to know how things are going back in the USA? Like your job and stuff. Is the whole school with work going well? The medic class I think you were starting. How’s Dennis? That working out? Sorry, if I’m prying. Brooke needs gossip here! I’m stuck with like 23 other Americans, the same ones from 7am-7pm and then tons of Hausa and Zarma speaking Nigeriens of whom I can understand like 5% of what they say. So yeah.

Kyla told me she and Bob had talked and pretty much decided they had A future, as in –Permanent –together. So exciting! But I told her she was NOT allowed to get married or anything BIG like that till I get back or if I get a chance to visit, etc. Heck, that goes for you, too! I guess 2 years is a long time.

Anyways, I got a funny birthday card from Dad. I sent him and mom letters but I bet they are only arriving now, if that. But hey, I get to call Rockford this Sat @ 1pm!

I’m going to try to write regularly, but I can already tell it may be quite sporadic. Sometimes I’ve got NO TIME-or time, but no stamps, and vice versa. Stamps actually are expensive-probably the only expensive thing I’ll get regularly. 550CFA to mail one letter to the US-right now that’s over my daily allowance for one day. But they feed us and bring us water, so I don’t have to pay that yet. They actually REALLY spoil us. I thought it would be a lot harsher. I guess it’s better to get “eased” into bush living. I think I’ll really like the bush. Just chilling out with villagers and talking about stuff.

When I come back to the US I’m not going to know how to talk “normally” though. I’ll be severely overgreeting everyone: asking how their health is, how is the family, how is work, how is your tiredness, oh yeah. And then 5 minutes later-how is your health again, later in the afternoon, hey how is your health. Oh, I’m going to the store, hey ask so and so if they are well, if their wife is sick, is her house ok and children well? Yeah. Huh. And I’ve only been here a month. Saboda Allah!

Ok, so now it’s night time and I’m back on my mat. Haha. I just had a very encouraging moment. After dinner (it is always just the mom and me who eat together-the kids eat alone, off to the side or earlier/later. Well, I was telling her that I had a new Hausa book, and that it was hard, and that Hausa is hard and she laughed, and said that one day I would “hear” all of Hausa and be fluent. Slowly, slowly, and she was saying how Nadja (a current PCV named Lydia who also lived at this house) can “hear” Hausa now :) She said that later on, I would, too. I told my “mom”, Marianna, that I thought they would post me @Konni or Zinder-well, in the areas around those cities. (Although I don’t have the language to articulate that detail yet), and she said that Zinder is nice, really really nice. It would be great to get posted there!

Well, I guess we’ll see… they are starting up a yoga thing in the am at 6:30 and I think I want to go if I can actually get myself up and get to the site by then. Of course, it’s only an hour earlier-usually I’m there 7:15-7:30 since we start @8:00. I hope it’s not fried dough day tomorrow! That’s what she always gives me here at the gida-on the days like Sundays and a few other random days. I mean they’re good, but not much dough, and a lot of fried stuff and lots of sugar. An hour or two later I always think I’m going to puke so I’ve found interesting ways to get around it (like wrapping up 3 of them and ditching them somewhere), giving them to kids or others at the site, hahaha. I feel bad, but at least someone’s eating them. Then I pick up bagged yogurt or fruit or bread on the street on the way. IRONICALLY I have not gotten sick, not even the slightest hint of traveler’s diarrhea. The doc here said that I might be one of the lucky few that either has a great immune system, or a strong colon, and just doesn’t get stuff nearly as much as the others.

Hmm….lovely, I know. You can only imagine the content of our discussions here! Especially when you are with the same small group 6 days a week and in all these new situations. Folks get comfy quickly, I feel like I know a good portion of my group REALLY well, especially the Hausa speakers (1/2 of the group is Zarma). Half of the group is natural resource management, half is agricultural. So lots of cool project ideas floating around in my head but I think I’ve really got to see what my particular village will need and take it from there.

I can’t believe my swear-in is one month! We learned today that it is a huge event with like 400 attendees: govt. people, military, embassy, university people, all the PCorps folks, staff and volunteers. And there is TV coverage, too. I’m going to have a tailor make me a Hausa outfit maybe. Then there’s a big party with bar, pool, etc. I’ve heard from other PCVs this is like a legendary event or something. Hee hee! Plus it’s on St. Patrick’s Day. Irish themes in Niger!

Well, I hope you are doing well! Feel free to write or send a postcard or anything! Mail is the most awesome thing that happens around here! I’ll still have this address till a month from now (March 18-20). Of course as soon as I get the new one I’ll send it! So let me know what’s happening with all back at “home” :) :)

To, sai wata rana, allah shi bama layiha,

Dear Kyla, So I think it is so funny that when I sent you that letter I made a joke about "not getting married or anything" and I got a letter from you like a week later saying that it's "going to happen" and you two are for sure about it. Nuts! All I can say is START SAVING $ right now cus you HAVE to come and visit me! You could come as soon as the summer if you wanted, but later is better (I guess – since my language + etc will improve as time goes on - ). Seriously, I really don't know how to explain, but things just won't be the same ever, and I KNOW that you in particular, would love coming here! I'm so excited I get to find out my POST on Thursday, so I know where ill be going by the time you get this (well, sadly, prolly by the time I'll be able to even get the freakin stamps and send this) Ah well - . Plus we are going to Niamey for a "safety + security" tour this Fri or Sat. After that we will be allowed to bush taxi it into Niamey on our own if we want. Afterall, its only 30 min or so away. I wanna hit up the Grande Marche, PC Hostel, marine house (mainly just to speak to other Americans who live here - ). Also, some of us PSTs are thinking of doing a nice restaurant + karaoke or something. Hil-freakin-larious. So, good news on the language training front. We had are first lang. proficiency interview day-fore-yesterday and I got "novice-high". It ranges from novicelow-mid-high, intermed-low-high, advanced, and then superior or something. We have to reach intermediate-low before they will let us be installed at our posts, but that's only one more level up – I figure with the first half of training done + I've already gotten 75% of the way, so I shouldn't worry, but just keep plugging along with it. yeah. I requested to go to ZINDER. J it's the furthest hub from Niamey, but it's big 80,000 or something. plus, it has got a kick butt hostel, has an arabian sort of feel, a lot of history I guess. Only me and one other guy requested it (at least out of the Hausa NRM's, I don't know about the AG's), so I "should" get it, Insha Allah…If not, I'll end up in Konni – in which case I'll be nearer to the Zarma phones, so that’s the plus to being there. If I was in Zinder, I'd only see the Zarma 1/2 of my stage like once a year (well, maybe every 6mos or something). So I'm trying to find pros to both options, in case I don't get Zinder. Alas. So we had a mesa party last night, the second one. I had my laundry day that day, and had washed my hair too, so I went all out and put on jeans, an American style fitted t-shirt (the only like that that I brought), and even painted my nails + did a bit of make-up. Yep, rockin the American clothes. Hah. We had fun! Most of my fav. stage buddies were there – and. Shoot forgot what I was saying there. I had to jump and tahiya myself over to the solango (crapper). That happens here. Although, haven't gotten even a trace of diarrhea yet. amazing. Most folks have. Anyhow, I'm looking forward to a "normal" week as of tomorrow – I mean, I really enjoyed going on de myst and doing our NRM technical trip this past week, but there is something to be said for normalcy and routine, just nice to chill + study Hausa for a bit. Our tech trip was pretty frickin awesome though. We went on a 2 day, 1 night trip. We visited volunteers at their posts which was very helpful. We learned about land reclamation – we did "demi-lunes" which are these 1/2 moon holes you dig – depending on which way the water flows when the rains come. Then you put the dirt up around the curved edge to make a wall – or break that will help hold water and help w/soil erosion. Then you plant inside the hole – it helps put plant roots into the hardpan soil to stop erosion – and is also a good way to plant crops like millet, since the moisture and minerals that get trapped in there. It's cool that you can bring hard-pan soil that is often abandoned back to life. Its very hard work thou and a slow process. We made mudcookstoves too – VERY easy, but very efficient and cheap – it blocks the wind and traps heat, so you need to collect way less fuel to cook. Then we learned about live + dead fencing, how to do it – and we planted some baby trees to start a live fence. In the town of Kiota, we met a BIG religious leader – the Shake, and visited a radio station and got introduced on the air. We also met with a powerful women's leader. It really seems like they roll out the red carpet for us wherever we go! We got to see a local school, and there was some drumming and dancing at the village where we spent the night. The women there made us dinner and breakfast the next morning. Then we saw a (?) arabic plantation – which I really hope is able to take off and spread more in Niger because it's an excellent sustainable source of income – plus you can plant crops in between the rows for sale or food, and it's good for the trees, a symbiotic relationship. So yeah, plus the PCUS that have come to stay w/our tage have been really cool for the most part. We have a different girl and guy come every 2 weeks. Anyhow Akwai Zahi! Karhe kiya saura kwata da marece, sai hankuri, Allah shi bada sanyi. Haha. watakila ha hare, a karhe takwas, anima zani da gajiya dayaway lokacin ne! Ahh…..Saboda Allah. Sorry, you'll have to get used to me going off about Allah all the time. Everything here is about Allah, so hey. Saboda Allah ("because of god", or "for god's sake!") – that one makes a great excuse or rationale for just about anything here in Niger. Why are you late for class? Ahhh….saboda allah…haha. Gasbiya ne! OK, and if I ever repeat myself – or say stuff as in referring to something that I DIDN'T previously mention I apologize, it's just the nature of writing letters here – you forget what you wrote, and to who, and what you journaled – plus I NEVER sit and write a whole letter in one sitting. The heat is wearing off a bit, so I think I'll wander out in about an hour and go to my friend "Rachida"'s gida. Her man measured me to make a shirt and head wrap and if she's back from Niamey, I'm gonna pick it up and pay for it. J At least it'll match my crappy blue sweat pants – but hey, in Africa it doesn't matter, you're still stylin. Bayan wannan, zani shada kossum! (After that I'm gonna drink a kossum) Yes, I never thought I'd be excited about cold yougurt in a bag. but again, this is Niger, it doesn't take much. I think I'll head up to the site, water my trees ( or what I hope will soon be trees), and come back and bucket bath. Hmm, I really should do some hardcore Hausa studying tonite too. I'm trying to pick a few greetings to nail down every couple of days. we shall see. time is definitely a tickin. If I canat least know more expressions, proverbs, etc. then I will feel very confident about live-in week. I'm really gonna try to take advantage of it to the fullest extent in order to make the actual move-in/installation 2 weeks after as painless as possible. I'm also sort of starting to form a list in my head of projects I want to do. I'm not talking my village NRM projects for Pcorps, but just things I can work on right away when I get to post. I wanna make a mudcookstove (although they give us camping stoves) I'm gonna stock up on stuff – cooking items, tin foil to roast stuff, and experiment a lot w/making "bush" versions of different foods. I want to do a garden as well, and plant some trees in my concession. I'd love to learn how to do other hands-on types of stuff here as well. Actually, getting an animal would be pretty sweet but then there is the problem of what to do w/it when you have to travel for Pcorps or when you take an extended vacation. The folks here just are NOT nice to animals, to make an understatement. Still, a goat would be sweet, or a dog. maybe a rabbit. Haha. Some folks here have even gone and bought camels, I wouldn't want to, it'd make me looke like I had a lot of money. not cool. Yeah, I'm trying to figure out what to do with my hair too. I've been washing it every 5 or 6 days w/Dr. Bronner's which has been going good but it separates into lil pre-dread chunks if I don't brush/comb or separate it with my fingers. (I'm not even attempting at regular brushing, besides I NEVER did that in the states). So this could be comical, I guess I can just let it continue and dread – they might come out real nice the way things are going – and stay clean at the same time (it's like washing your hair w/soap, if you can imagine what I'm trying to describe ). Or I can give it the chop. Oh we shall see. Anyways, yes, so many things on my mind. I guess that's how Sundays go here. I have so much free time. I mean, I use it to do errands, do laundry, study, write letters, etc but still, during the hot couple of hours you can really get a lot of thinking done. I suppose it works out rather nicely that way. Since I have class, etc on Monday-Sat. You get to have a lot of time and then by Mon morning you are VERY ready to go up to the site and have some breakfast and coffee with the other PSTs. I'm gonna get a new lang. teacher tomorrow too, and maybe new classmates, I'm not sure. they were going to do am classes for the second half of training depending on how we placed in interviews. we shall see. Ah. Sai hankini. So a funny thing is that I am thinking of what I want my name to be when I get out to the bush. (Post). It's fun because you can literally be WHOEVER you want, like "Chewbaca" for the next 2 years, and no one there knows the difference. Hah. Or, I could just go with my current Rahina, or some other islamic or traditional Hausa name. all in good time. Allah shi bada hawkini. Ina bukata hawkin sosai. I' Gaskiya ne. If only you could see me RIGHT now, you'd crack up, just chilling in my concession. I took my mattress off my wooden stick Hausa bed frame/stool (sticks like Lincoln logs) and put it on the sand next to the mud wall. Cus there's shade there in the afternoon. No sheet or nothing, just a dirty white trash looking mattress with my dirty self – at least dirty feet. Got my stool pulled up next to it with papers, a book, nalgene, cup of ghetto bush coffee. (love that Nescafe). The solio in the sun is ironically placed. Hah…I wonder what folks are doing back in the western world where there is plumbing and toilets, and food w/out cups of oil added, a world without sand everywhere – like your feet, clothes, hair food, haha. The physical aspect of living here is actually not very hard – it will be getting around, language, functioning with others that I can already tell is the challenge. although bush life I can tell is going to be quite a work-out. it'll just be so nice to do everything myself. draw and treat my own water, get veggies and supplies at the market, do my washing in a bucket. I actually swept my concession here yesterday w/the Niger version of a broom, that was tough, I was SWEATING. Nigerien women are RISILIENT. I think my letter has gone on for way too long – but hey, that's how it is. It's just so much easier to write every 10 days or so w/a letter done over the course of a day or two. And when I get out to poet I bet I'll be writing a fair bit – but many PCVs have told me that after a while you tend not to write as much, or go thru phases since you get into a thing, doing the same stuff, so there's not as much "new-ness" to write about. I'll try not to let that happen too much. Anyhow, we shall see. Oh yeah, in the letter I enclosed for Dad I put the info for a dictionary that I can't get from here, but I could REALLY use it – since I don't have a Hausa dictionary here. I'll just put it in here too. Mom or whoeer can get it with my bank acct. J

HIPPOCRENE PRACTICAL DICTIONARY HAUSA-ENGLISH DICTIONARY (by) Nicholas Awde ISBN# 0-7818-0426-4

Yeah, shi ke nan. I just know that as soon as I put this in an envelope and send it I'll think of something I really wanted to write! Oh heck. I don't know. Ba sane ba!! Anyways, let me know what is going on in good ol A-merrr-ikuh! It's sandy in Niger. That's the headline. huh. I'll be sending Paigely a letter too – although ina bukata stamps. So tell her it'll be arriving after you get this, insha Allah. Hope everyone is in health!!! and happy J I'll write again soon J Love Brooke ~ RAHINA

Dear Kyla Great to get you letter! I wrote back to Mom and sent it yesterday. I was still a little sick then, nothing big, just a little nausea, some kind of stomach bug but it is gone now and I think I’ve got full strength now.  In fact, we’re doing yoga in an hour, and then I’m going to go for a hike. Tonite we’re gonna have a party on the mesa, after dinner with our families. There’s several mesas around on the landscape. It’s actually an incredibly interesting environment, sometimes I feel like we are walking on the moon. Do you remember those interesting rock formations in Ireland? The one that consisted of the flat rocks over the ground. I forget what it was called. Anyway – this is sort of like that, but the rocks look dark, almost purplish and there’s bits of bush here and there. I really wish I knew more about geology at times like this. So last night we had a fashion show and our adoptive families came to see us parade thru in native dress representing the diff. ethnic groups of Niger. Then we had a dance party. It was hilarious – all of our teachers were dancing with us and we had all this American booty shaking music. Never would I imagine that one day I’d be grooving to Sir Mix-A-Lot in the middle of Boo-foo Africa. Hah…..Mm…I am SOOO Full, thank goodness there is an hour til yoga. They feed us a lot here at Hamdallaye. Today is Saturday so we only have a schedule in the a.m. and the rest is free! Maybe I’ll even get to doing my laundry, sweeping my concession, taking care of stuff at the gida (my house) – I’m really excited about the fact that our sites (posts) are going to be announced in 2 weeks! Crazy…next week we are going on some kind of field trip. And then the week after we get to go to Niamey, do email, phone, etc. So ya know, I finally busted out the I-pod last night. It was so nice. I was just lying there looking at the stars and listened to Cold Play’s “Fix You”. I can’t think of anything more fitting and as perfect as that. Just makes you think about a million things at once. I don’t really know how to explain. This has just been such an experience so far. And I’ve only been in the country for just over 3 weeks. Crazy. It’s been awesome meeting other volunteers and seeing places. I can see that everyone’s experience is really VERY different, and really depends on how you mold it. Some folks like to be closer to their regional city/capital, thus near the regional PCorps hostel – and some folks go in once a week, spend the night and leave the next day. Others are much further and stay out in the bush for 1-2 months at a time. I don’t really care where they place me. Even if you are far from Niamey – you still have your local hostel and city, so it’s all the same really, and there’s phone, mail and email there, other volunteers and etc. so hey - . I just want to have access to produce, market stuff for food and cooking. That’s about my only request. I really liked Konni (that’s where I did de-myst weekend – I think I wrote Mom about it.) but I’m sure there are lots of other great places too, and I’d hate to miss them. Hmm… So you and Bob are getting an apartment? Nice  and so cheap, you’re lucky, hopefully it’ll be easier to budget and will be less stressful for you while you are going to school, but don’t get any funny ideas ok!?!? You are NOT ALLOWED to get engaged and stuff! Well, actually you can, but you can’t get married or do anything major while I’m gone! Marie is getting married in August and I am going to miss it. Sucks, maybe I can send her something from here. It would be cool to send the Nigerian, or a Hausa equivalent of a wedding gift back to the U.S. And Paul – I want to send him something cool too. I wanted to for Mom and Dad, but I had only been here a week, and had just figured out how to get stamps, so I missed the boat w/that. But hey, I guess I really don’t have to wait for a special occasion to send stuff, etc. I’m trying to remind myself to take pics of stuff that ya’ll would want to see – which can be hard cus there are things that are “everyday” for me here that I’m sure you all would be interested in seeing so I’m working on it. I’ve been getting lots of advice on camera issues for dealing w/saving and sending, etc. of pictures as well. Although don’t expect pics for quite awhile, sorry about that, I just won’t have access til I get posted and settled. Any how in her letter she said she would be sending over a package. Just want to say that in general I feel like I really have everything I need. The only things I think I could use are Q-tips, cds (for burning pictures onto) and some extra deodorant. Hah. Actually, I’m sure I could get deodorant here I just haven’t had the freedom to get out and shop yet - . I’ve just learned the voab for the market, so this Tuesday (market day!) I’m going to do it “solo”! and get some matches, new flipflops (lost the other I bought ALREADY…argh..), and take my new cloth to a tailor to get made into pants. One of my friends hosts mom is a tailor so that should make it easier. Money is hard to deal with cus they use these denomination of “5” that don’t match up w/the actual #s, but I think if I just memorize it it’ll all be good. That’s the advice I’ve gotten from current volunteers. They are SUCH an asset! We have 2 volunteers here at training (or “Stage”, pronounced “Stahj”) w/us and they switch new ones every 2 weeks, so they have been an incredible resource so far. Most are ½ way thru their service (they were last year’s stage). That’s the other awesome thing – I REALLY like my fellow stagers here, I’ve made some really good friends already, I can only hope we get posted in the same region. The network of PCVs and PSTs is awesome, everyone seems like a big family – as cheesy as it sounds. Things aren’t as hard as I thought they’d be. Of course, when I get to post – I know that that is going to be the truly hard part. Luckily we will have a week of “live-in” where we spend a week at our post to get to know it, etc. I’m actually going to try and take advantage of that time to go and greet people and just put myself “out there” like yay here’s the new anasara in town. Hah. Ok, so I’m sorry I didn’t finish before, ya just keep on getting interrupted here. Actually it’s Sunday morning now. Had a mesa party last night, that was fun, definitely a bit surreal – like one of my friends here said “woah, I’m on a mesa, chilling around a fire…in Africa.” Niiiceeee. So today is Sunday and it’s will out with the family day. I’ve been really productive already – cleaned up and organized my concession area, did laundry, hung it up, ate breakfast (yum….fried dough with sprinkled sugar) except you feel slightly nauseas about an hour later. Me and Robin (AKA BACHIDA) are gonna try to pick up some market food, bread, produce, or canned something so that we aren’t stuck eating fried everything on Sunday. I figure (at least for breakfast – which I can eat alone in my concession) I can “wrap up” some of the dough – nut like things and eat my own stuff. Nigerians really love oil. Cook in oil, add oil sauce. Seriously. Good food Good spices, flavors, but the sauces are literally oil soup. Ugh…yeah no worries about losing weight in this place. Apparently men often lost a bit and women often gain. Hahahaha. I think I may even try to take my pague (length of fabric) to Robin’s mom to get a skirt or some pants made. OK, so I promise next time I write I’ll try to sit and write all at once, I just keep on having to do things, like eat ½ cup of oil – oops , I mean lunch. I also just wrote Matt this crazy long ass letter – meant to be passed on, so if you wanted to try and hear anything from that, you can find him on myspace. I’m trying to get ahold of dan’s mailing address as well. I somehow managed to leave without it. I hate pens in Africa, they all die! What the hell. I WILL finish this letter, imshal Allah. (god willing) you’re gotta throw that into the end of literally every statement you make here. It’s always…”god willing”… hah. Yeah. If that gives you ANY clue of how thing go. Gert. Well, I have GOT to get up and move – even if it’s the hottest part of the day! I’ve been writing letters, organizing papers, and the like for the last few hours it seems - . Oh yeah, tell mom I could use some nail polish remover too. Sorry, that was random! Hmmm…I don’t think I made enough bush coffee for myself, my head is starting to hurt. As I didn’t want to bother my host mom with boiling more water. (cleaning a pot for it, etc. – esp when I only had enough Nescafe – yum..for 1 small cup) so I mixed it with treated water and stuck it in a nalgene in the sun to heat up. It’s funny how you really appreciate things here. Well, I even enjoyed some powdered milk yesterday. That was a real treat. Hah. Some of the stuff cracks me up. And I think of Chuck’s reaction. He would flip if he saw my little host sister eat. Luckily, the kids ALWAYS eat on their own, from their own bowl – often it’s the leftovers of me and the mom. Or they give it to the kids who come with bowls on strings, looking for dinner. She never refuses. No one does, even if they’ve got nothing. Amazing. It’s hard to have her buy “rich man’s” food like pasta and veggies for sauce, even if it is good. I mentioned that the cabbage was good and today she made TONS of it. I can’t even describe, alas…sai anjima yata. And for stuff with Bob, Allah shi bada sala. Love BROOKE RAHINA

Hello!! I received two letters today-from Kyla and Rockford. Anyhow, so good to hear from you. So much stuff has happened here. So yeah, today I learned NOT to refuse food from Nigeriens. They weren't offended or anything, but couldn't understand why I didn't want to be at dinner. I've just been a bit nauseous the last day or so (nothing serious, just the heat I think). Actually there is not much heat yet. I wear a sweatshirt for a good part of the day. Anyhow, I knew that I can't just eat "a little” because they'll keep pushing more food to you. And it's real good and all, but I just wasn't up for the fight and thought I'd just avoid dinner and pretend I was sleeping. Anyhow, my "Dad" came to find me (which is odd in and of itself) and got all worried when I told him I was a bit ill in the stomach. No big deal-I tried to tell him in Hausa. I said I would talk to the doctor @ PCorps in the am. Well, five minutes later he had brought a PC staff person over to see if I was "ok". She saw what was going on and kind of laughed and said they were really worried, and tried to explain to them that Americans had "wierd" habits or something like that. Anyway-wow-not doing that again. I'll just suck it up and shovel all the rice and sauce down!! So strange - I can hear Missy Elliot.....Can you work it?....in the street from a boom box/radio. In Muslim Niger. Ha ha ha.! So we went on "De-Myst" last weekend. It took most of the day to travel out to Konni where we split up and went with PC volunteers to their post for a day and night. I ended up in a primarily Tuareg village. It was pretty cool-although they switched a lot from Tamasken to Hausa. So language practice was pretty impossible. The villagers were really welcoming. They gave me presents before I left: bracelets, candies, and a wooden spoon - which are their traditional crafts. I got to see Hadiza, Julie's camel. (My pcv). She bought one about a month ago and is in the process of learning to ride it, to take care of it, etc.We went back to Kanni (the bigger town) on Sun. and met up with part of Team Kani and about ten or so other trainees. My fellow stage-aires. We celebrated the Chinese New Year, and even had tofu stir-fry!! They have regional hostels in Niger, so pcv’s can get together, people can have a stopping point for travel, communications, etc. They even had a TV. Folks were watching movies and we had music, etc. Although no indoor plumbing, but hey, a nice set-up none the less. The pcvs there were Real nice and asked me several times to request to be placed on Team Konni when I have my interview. I may do that, but of course, there are other great places I’m sure. I just haven’t seen them yet. We’ll see. I’m sure I’ll be happy wherever I’m sent.

Speaking of that we’ve been starting to do a lot more technical training now-our 3rd week! We’ve started a “pepiniere” project-tree planting. We’re learning how to prepare beds, obtain different kinds of seeds, planting and seed prep techniques, and such. They are giving us lots of info about Niger- the environment, project activities, logistics, ideas, how to implement and work if with your community, etc. So it should really help. I feel like I will have an entire library of stuff by the time PST is done judging by what I have at the 3rd week mark.

We are going to go to Niamey soon when I’ll be able to do some phone calls, and maybe email. Well, see I guess. Some kind of fashion show this week, too! I guess our adoptive families are going to dress us up or something.

Well, I think I finally started to experience the “stress”. But it really wasn’t bad- I mean less stress overall than I would feel back in the US in DC. It was just me – those days when absolutely anything and everything that could have possibly have gone wrong all went wrong. I lost my favorite pair of pants, a shirt, my cheap but awesome flip-flops, my mosquito net, my lamp broke, I ran out of TP, had stomach issues, had difficulty in language class, left my NRM homework @ the gida(home), and just felt crappy in general, and no doc at the site that day. Plus, my laundry day was moved a WEEK back and I had nothing remotely clean to wear. My hair was nasty as well. Yeah, I sucked. I couldn’t get my ipod out of the safe cuz the dude in charge of it was in Niamey. But hey – SAI HANKUI. Yes, I went home e and worked my butt off organizing and hand doing my laundry, (well, some of it) in two buckets and really felt better after. Just need a little physical labor here and there seems to relieve a lot. I then fixed my lamp and later I got my ipod, so HEY!

I am having issues charging it. Either the thing wasn’t precharged as I thought, or I’m missing a cord, but tomorrow I’m going to ask one of the guys that has a solio, too, how his works and this should all get figured out.

Anyhow, yeah. Time is definitely starting to fly by here. I keep on meeting more and more people. Especially over De-myst weekend. There is definitely a tight knit community here and a support system. I guess there’d have to be. And it seems pretty easy to penetrate the web and be accepted.

I am beginning to attempt small tasks – like buying things without help from an interpreter, and having traditional clothes made, getting around the village here. We still don’t have much freedom yet, but there’s a lot of leg room to develop our own hobbies, etc. in the down time. Some folks have started a yoga and breathing thing in the AM before breakfast. I may try it tomorrow if I’m awake. I’ve been waking up with the sun. It’s really the whole array of sounds, and there’s somewhat of an order to them. It gives you an idea of the time.

There is the early AM first prayer call, the roosters, the dragging out of all the pots and pans and other stuff by my “Mom” here. At night there are the typical sounds as well. Although I must say the last two mornings they’ve had a new prayer call guy on the loudspeaker that really sucks. It’s like he’s losing his voice and has to yell louder and louder and it sound God awful. Oh, well, overall I really can’t complain. It’s SOOOO beautiful to go to bed here and have a MILLION MILLION GAZILLION stars as your ceiling. Honestly, you’ve never seen a sky like this.

I’ve learned a lot of vocab recently, but ironically, it is sort of hard to use it at the host families. If you’re sitting there you don’t want to say, “I am 23 years old”, There are 4 doctors in the village”, “I will buy blah blah in Niamey”. Because after you say it you can’t elaborate al that much so it makes you not want to open your mouth. Luckily my family has hosted at least two others that I know of. In fact, the one person from last summer is now a volunteer with Team Maradi and I met her @ the Konni hostel! Real nice coincidence!

Luckily a language committee has formed and has begun a whole host of language activities to help us learn and practice. We’re having tables at meals that are designated “Hausa” or Zarma” only, having coupons you can earn to trade in for stuff like stamps, cloth, sodas, etc. Some events, like a fake language café, or restaurant simulation, other stuff I can’t remember. I’m glad the staff at the site is so fantastic. They REALLY make this so great. I hope all of us pcvs can pitch in together and do something awesome for then when this is all over.

Well, hmm… folks here are sending requests for stuff they need, but I can’t honestly think of anything I “need” that I can’t get here. Oh, I could use Q-tips, lots and lots of Q-tips….

I also talked to some pcvs with digital cameras that said that they would often put their pics on a cd, send the cd to the US and then just not delete the pics from their camera till they got word that the disc had arrived- or they’d just make more than 1 disc. Apparently it’s much faster than trying to email them all.

It’s nice knowing that slowly, slowly, (Sannu, sannu) I’m starting to see how some things-systems work, how to get things “done”, take care of stuff, etc. I mean it’s only the tip of the iceberg, but that’s really all I can even attempt right now, just one thing one day at a time. When I start to learn a lot more Hausa I’ll probably take more on, but I’m content at the pace it’s going right now.

So today is Feb. 2nd I had to go to bed last night, it was getting late, anyways. I am SO thankful for you all. Thank you for being back in the US, and for helping me prepare to come here, and thanks for being on the other end and reading this!!!

So today in language class we wrote about a day in the life of a Nigerien woman named “Mary Poppins”. It was fun. Anyway it’s great that I waited overnight to finish and send this because I ended up talking to my buddy Sebastian who told me how to use the solio the right way. So all is well. Woo-hoo! I might even get to hear some music tonight!

Long day today. 2 language classes, first aid session, a shot-we get so many-, then tech training, a break, I planted trees, break, and we had this language café thing set up, that was pretty cool. Tomorrow I am eating breakfast with my family and doing tree ID, learning the uses, etc. At night my host family is going to dress me , etc, for the “fashion show” and our teachers are going to wear American clothes. Then a dance party after!!Nice!! There’s a fire pit and nice view. Even here things can be done. Well I still have stuff to do before the night is done here. I’ll write again soon.

Hope everyone is still doing well, love you and miss you.

Brooke

This is my paper from my Hausa language notebook so it feels strange to be writing English in it. Ina rabatuwa inglishi (I am writing in English). We have had to learn so much Hausa already and it's only been one week of class. Oh! Ikin Amerika, ina da miji takuas! Gaskiya ne! Mu gane?

(In America, I have 8 husbands, etc) HAHA-we are having fun learning a new language and there is a lot to learn. So many non-verbal gestures as well. In fact, in one of the cross-cultural sessions the Hausa and Zarma teachers did a whole silent skit communicating with nothing but gestures! Crazy, I don't know how I could ever remember all that.

Well, a really great thing about being here is that I am meeting and getting to know so many awesome people:) My group has 27-no 26 (one guy left, he got sick and didn't think he could deal with the probability of getting sick every now and then-or more often, the heat, etc.) Of course it is nice right now-only about 3-4 hours of the day are actually "hot" @90 degrees. I wear a sweatshirt and blanket @night and keep longsleeves on till lunch time. I know it won't stay this way though.

I wish there was some kind of way to send MORE than just a letter. Not necessarily a package, but just a way to really convey what is happening here. Well, I do know that one of you HAS to come out here and visit if you are able. Really-not right now, but by this fall when it begins to cool down again-it really would be totally doable. It really is something like you can't even imagine. It's funny but as hard as it is to complete very "simple" tasks, it doesn't bother me. I just remember to be patient and take one thing at a time.SAI HANKOURI (I have patience). It is the national motto or something here. It is the answer to everything. Also BABU HAJIYA CIKIN NIGER (never tired in Niger).

I did laundry here yesterday night and felt accomplished-one task a day. Of course it required gathering dirty stuff (which required lighting the old style kerosene lantern which can be hard)Just to find the dar clothes. Then prepping a wash bucket and a rinse bucket, lugging it all to the wash/shower area and doing it all by hand. Then FINDING and cutting hemp rope to make lines and hanging it all. Haha! I should have taken pictures of the finished product. YAYI KYAU! Of course, everything dries here in about an hour.... I also figured out how to FIX my lantern- While it was dark. At first I thought that I would just use a flashlight and have someone take it apart and do it in the morning. But then I thought-ok, you have to figure this out and get creative as this is one of a million things that will no doubt occur when I am alone. (Well, relatively alone- people will always be all over) at my post. So, I fixed it!TO MADALLA...

I am just glad that I am going to have a break from language lessons, even if it is only for 1.5 days. We will have Sat. afternoon and all day Sunday off (21st &22nd) That also means that I spend all day with the host family here. Uhm... I think it will be a long day, but I'm sure I'll learn a lot. It's also my friend co-volunteer Robin's (RACHIDA in Niger) birthday tomorrow. Some of us are going to meet up and visit each other's houses/families or something. Yes, we shall see.

I think I may cut my hair. I said that before though didn't I? Oh, it's easy to forget what I may and may not have written before-everything here is simultaneously slow and fast, so I must apologize that my sense of time or whatever is definitely a bit off.

I am really glad I cam here. We'll see if I'm still saying that when I get sick right? About 6 or 7 of our 27 have gotten sick so far. Nothing big, just gastrointestinal stuff. Luckily we've had a bunch of medical training and lots of lab work than we can submit when we get sick so we can take the right medicines ASAP- some have already done it. So the system seems to work really well. Maybe I have a good immune system. I haven't been sick at all-or even felt that stressed.( Well, besides the normal, expected amount of stress that comes along with this sort of thing) So no amoebas in my intestines!!Although I have eaten some new foods like yogurt, and eggs, some other thing with milk in it. No meat though. I've barely come across it. But I am eating real good here believe it or not-the folks who've gotten sick lost a little weight though. Water, I guess.

Yes, this kind of stuff is definitely the bulk of many of the conversations among the trainees here. And I think, ok, now I see what they were talking about...Everyone really gets to know each other.

Well this weekend I think we go on Demyst. We visit in small groups a volunteer @their site to see how it all goes down. I'm really looking forward to it. I'm also really looking forward to learning more about my area NRM(Natural Resource Management), possible projects, etc. Actually-I enjoy all the stuff they are training us on, it all seems very pertinent to us, tailored VERY well, so there's really no fluff. But we also have rest and down time. Quite a nice balance really. It gets my approval!!

And I am sorry that this is not getting there in time for your birthday Mom we had to wait for stamps! But I hope you do have a great birthday, I'm thinking of you, all of you.

Gotta go, I'll write later.

Love, Brooke AKA Rahina

Sannu!

Ina gida? OK< sorry, had to try and use some of my new language skills. It feels like sooo much has probably happened since I last wrote. So I'm living in Hamdallaye now. This is my 2nd night at my host family's house. Issaka Sarah. A surprisingly small nuclear family for Niger-only 2 kids. But then again, the father is a teacher, educated and the mother can speak a bit of French. They seem to have a fairly large concession for the size of their family (I'll explain). Plus it is right next to the house of the teachers of Peace Corps. The first night with the family was, well, interessting-but it got better as it went on. I was lterally put ina room filled with other volunteers and all of the wives and our host families and we had to figure out who went with who. I wasn't even sure I had the right one, but I left with her anyways,, why not? I ended up just chilling on her matt and tapestry in what ou would think of as the "yard" or in this case - sand - area. I used up the few phrases that we had learned in about 20 minutes and then the reality sunk in-as "ok, so what now?"

So we started playng games- Ibrahim and Rahina, Marianna (the mother) and me. She decided to call me Rahina. So I am "big Rahina". We ate dinner and I left to go to bed. A current PC volunteer named Joe came by to check and see if all my luggage had arrived and I was alive etc. He seemed so at ease with everything. If I can ever get to that point I would feel-well, I don't and can't even imagine it right now.

Tonight, when I came home from spending the day at the training site, I was g reeted by Ibrahim, saying Rahina and smiling. I showed them pictures and tried to use my new vocabulary. Later on Bobo - Host dad, came over and helped teach me more stuf which was really really nice of him. Since he speaks French, he was telling me they would help out with whatever. All I need to do was ask! SoI actually learned alot of new stuff tonight all via by pointing gestures, repitition, anda bit of french to help when there was no understanding. You really never imagine how much you can communicate with in this way.

So we are going to be doing alot off training. But it should all be really fun. Threee hours of formal Hausa lessons. Then we have medical sessions often, butthey are going to get real gritty. But I am glad, they are almost over preparing us. Better to be safe than sorry.

(a drawing of her concession)

Compared to other spots... it is pretty nice! And everyone dresses well, especially women, and especially if they are leaving the house or going to market where it is a bit of a "show". I can't wait to got tomorrow and see the whole thing. Plus I really need dang flip flops and some kind of fabric wrap. (its not required, but I feel more assimilated with it). Its a sign of respect, I guess. I am making so many small changes right now, so I guess baby steps is a good idea. I was trying to be adventurous with new foods. Any how, I better go. I still have to brush my teeth, got to the "latrine", and converse with the cockroaches you know , apologize for disturbing their home and go to sleep.

Na gaji (I'm tired)

It is hard to send a lot letters and postage is a whole days allowance! Love Brooke now sarah Rahina

Discoveries:

1) She is doing well

2) She has very small, hard to read handwriting

I'll try to transcribe as best I can :) ~Paige

"Hello! I don't know where to start! I have so many things I could say - Well 1st off, please feel free to put this or future letters onto my blog unless I say not to - if you'd like and have time of course.

So here I am! At Hamdallay. Presently it is about 6:30am here, still dark, I woke up earlier than the other folks - to the sounds of animals, wind, and electricity generators. We had a long long LONG journey to get here, but we finally made it. Everyone has been very welcoming. The airport was open air, like in Trinidad. Then again, I suppose that's the norm in many areas of the world.

In any case, there is soo much happening here - as far as corp training goes. We've received LOTS of papers, info (and shots, blood work, etc.) Fun, fun, fun. And I get to take an anti-malaria pill...everyday! For 2.5 years! Ah, well. I guess it's better than getting malaria. We also get a schedule of events. Today we have a lot of orientations, interviews, some more papers to do - but also some kind of cultural fair here - and we get a tour of the village as well. Then we go to stay with our host families after some sort of community dinner. I think that happens Sunday night. From then on, we will stay nights & eat dinner at our host families homes, have breakfast, meetings, and three training sessions everyday (Mon-Fri) here at the training center. We'll have a language, cross- cultural, and technical session on each day.

Yeah! ...My hand is cramping and I've only covered a quarter of the page - I'm sure all the excitement really doesn't help. Sure I'm in that "shock" phase or whatever you want to call it. On thing that did strike me as we were driving in from the airport was DARKNESS. I'm not used to things being actually dark at night. Even in Niamey, the capital, the only lights were often small lanterns, small lights - (as in one bulb) at individual houses or stands. When I went to sleep last night I saw no lights in any direction around me 360 degrees. What an incredible feeling. There were a couple lights here - but they aren't on all the time. They have generators, but only use the electricity at certain hours.

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Well, I had a break and now I"m back. I have a feeling this may often be the case. We have 2 current volunteers here at the site with us. They will stay with us for 2 weeks and then 2 other volunteers will come,and so on for the length of the nine weeks. So much to learn in 9 weeks! And so many medical things we have to take care of. 15 more shots to go! Oh well...

Our PCV Anna has been incredibly helpful so far with questions. She's been here for 2 and some years I think, extending the term of service. There is just soooo much to learn, so many things I want to do, so I am trying to tell myself OK, just take one things at a time.

We've already set up a running/jogging group for the early mornings. It's great for right now - it's the cold season and only gets to 90 degrees or so at the heat of the day. (We run early - 6 or 7 am). I'll be glad to be moving again. Oh yeah! They do our laundry for us too here! We are spoiled. Washed, cleaned, pressed and everything. We have such a great view --> right from our beds here, although tomorrow night we'll be going down to the village to stay with our families. I'll either be alone or have a roommate. Either way, another volunteer will be next door. Oh guess what? I swear-in (ceremony where you finish training & become an official volunteer & go out on your own to your post). I will either be the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd volunteer at my post. The idea is to have a term of six years at each site. So we will see.

I just interviewed with my Director for N&M (Natural Resource Management) which is my area. I could end up closer to Niamey or rather west where it is a bit more isolated --> which I've come to understand is really a very relative term, many would consider the whole country to be incredibly isolated.

I've been able practice a little bit of French so far. It was funny. We were talking about traditional medicine - the first fellow would explain in Hausa to another - who would tell me (in French) which I would then relate to another girl in English. I just want to start my new language! I have a feeling it may be Hausa - the only real request I had at my interview was to be somewhere that wasn't SUPER crowded. Therefore there is a chance I may end up further away from civilization. I dunno. I figured --> WHEREVER they send me, it will still be a huge adjustment. I said I would be willing to "open" a village as well (be their first volunteer). It could be hard, but it may be quite hard to follow in another volunteers footsteps as well, with villages being used to that particular person.

It's funny writing with this hand cus it's all stained --> we g0t henna put on during the cultural fair - a lot of girls got hair braided too, but I didn't. I figured they'd cry when they saw how much of it there is. Who knows, maybe I'll cut it all off or something.

I talked with one of the medical officers as well (about vegetarian, even veganism!) - he said it was possible, and I would have the chance to talk to current veg/vegan volunteers to see how they manage. How/where/when, etc.

It's good though - I mean, there is just sooo much going on, so many things going thru my head. Yet is is structured in a way that keeps us from getting overwhelmed. There really is a great system set up here - I'd have many more details to write regarding that whole area - but I seem to be running out of space. Ah! I hope everyone is well. When I find out my placement (a bit over 4 weeks from now) I will send it! I'll write again soon. Very soon, I have a feeling =)

Love,

Brooke "

The previous picture was received from the Peace Corps staff. No word yet on when or if Brooke will have internet access. In the meantime, I'll be updating the blog with the snail mail we get from her.

Peace Corps volunteers & trainees arrived safely in Niger.

Picture taken Saturday, January 14th.

Hello everyone. I've set up this blog to serve as a communication system for my time in Niger over the next 2 years. I will be woring with the Peace Corps in Natural Resource Management, living in a rural village. (no internet, phone, electricity, etc.), so don't expect frequent postings, but ill try......so anyhow I am taking off for a quick orientation in Philly this tuesday, the 10th of Jan. before arriving in Niger on Fri the 13th. So much to do! I hadn't realized how many small details all of the preparation would involve. It's a bit strange- how do you plan for what is basically a two year camping trip? The process has definitely made me re-prioritize and decide what is necessary and what is luxury.

Well, ill be writing letters as well (and email when available), although i have been advised that letters can often take a month or so to arrive. I guess we'll just have to be patient then right?