For Thanksgiving, I went to visit JP. (As mentioned elsewhere, she was a volunteer in my staging group. She has since finished up her service. However, she and her fiance GK now work at an orphanage near where her original site was. They had moved in sometime in November, so Thanksgiving there was, essentially, a housewarming party for them.)

Thanksgiving went pretty well, overall:

Our House, Is a Very Very Very Fine House...

GK and JP's house

I Can See For Miles

The hills around where JP and GK both live

Welcoming Guests In Style

That evening, the children living at the orphanage welcomed those of us who had arrived by putting on some gymnastics-style games. They were pretty cool to watch.

Greeting Visitors With Song and Dance

The next day, after more people had arrived, the children came to JP and GK's place. There, they entertained us with some songs, as well as some dancing. Later, after they finished and had left, we ate dinner. (It was good; I got full.)

Going From Point "A" To Point "B"

After we ate, we headed to a nearby resort-style place, which JP and GK's boss owns; he had invited us to . On the way, I took these photos.

Country Roads, Take Me Home...

When we got there, we walked down this path.

Let the Games Begin!

Several volunteers playing tennis. In the background is the main building of the resort.

Once we got there, we saw a tennis court, a place for lawn bowling, and a badminton field. Several of us then started playing different games.

This Is Where We Were

Horse corral, with pond in the background.

Meanwhile, I walked around some, just to see what the place was like. There were several places for guests to sleep, along with a main building.

In the other direction I could see a horse corral and a couple of ponds.

After a week in Lushoto, I went to Zanzibar for the rest of my vacation. There, I met SS, a volunteer in my staging group who taught on that island. (She has since finished up her service there.)

One thing we did while I were there was visit the island of Tumbatu, a small island just northwest of Zanzibar (Unguja) island. G, a volunteer in Stone Town who is with a different organization, came along with us.

(You can see a map showing Tumbatu and the other islands of the Zanzibar archipelago - Zanzibar [Unguja], Pemba, etc. - here.)

Below are some pictures from our trip there:

Crossing the Waters

Clouds reflected in channel between Unguja and Tumbatu

When we left, the channel was calm - there was almost no wind. The water was very smooth, so looking at it was something like looking at a mirror.

Touring "Coral Island"

Beach, with coral underlying the rest of the island (top); coral just under topsoil on the island itself (bottom).

We landed, and walked along the beach. As we walked, I noticed that the island was basically made of coral: it had beach, yes, but there was a coral wall just a few feet from the shore. The island did have topsoil, but it was only a thin layer; below it was coral. In fact, it protruded above the ground in a number of different places (as you can see in the bottom photo).

Eventually, we met a few people. Once we explained our purpose, they led us to the sheha (district chief for Tumbatu island).

(As an aside, the island does not get many visitors. One reason is because a number of residents there tend to look down on them: they don't like them visiting, but, if they do come, a number of people there will try to make as much money as they can off of them.)

We met the sheha, and, after talking to him for a while, he permitted us to visit a local primary school, as well as some ruins. It helped that we only used Swahili with him (both SS and I know the language; G, who went along, did not); though he started out very formal, he eventually loosened up, and was a lot friendlier with us once he saw we knew that and were not merely tourists.

Looking at Classrooms

SS (right) and headmaster look into classroom, with two villagers looking on

Students Learn Here

One of the classrooms at the Tumbatu primary school

First, we walked around the primary school there. It was interesting, particularly with the desks and the fact that the windows don't have glass but, rather, are open to the outside. I guess security is not a problem there.

As we were walking, we passed a small class that was having a lesson on the Qu'ran. (Religious classes are not uncommon in Tanzania; my school has them every week, only theirs are on Christianity [since the vast majority of people in my area are Christian]. So, it makes sense that similar classes on Zanzibar would be about Islam.)

Later, we passed by a mosque (not pictured here) that we were told was hundreds of years old, but that was still being used.

Eventually, we left that part of the island, to go to where the ruins were. (We went by boat - a guide the Sheha had insisted we take accompanied us. Two others somehow followed him...)

On the way, our captain showed us some sea creatures that he had caught:

Seeing Sea Life

Top view of a sea star (star fish)

Bottom view of a sea star

A shell (oyster?)

A piece of coral

Once we arrived, we got out of the boat and came on shore. Then, we made our way to where the ruins were.

The only ones that were visible were part of a large mosque, and lower parts of a palace's walls. (I suspect that was actually a town, once, but that the vast majority of it had not yet been excavated.)

Based on the ruins I saw there, what I had seen at Kilwa, and what I had read about Tumbatu elsewhere, it appeared to me that that town was settled between 800 and 1000 years ago. Also, it seemed to me that it had later been abandoned for some reason, sometime between 1350 CE (AD) and 1550 CE.

However, as the guides didn't know much about its history and as it appears difficult to get information about it from other sources, it would be hard to say anything more conclusive than that. (In fact, those dates are largely conjecture.)

Poking Around Some Ruins

Walls of Ruined Mosque (the mihrab - the part that points in the direction of Mecca - is in back and on the right)

Another corner of said ruined mosque

Three different views of Tumbatu's ruined palace

After visiting Tumbatu, we returned to the main island. The next day, we went to Stone Town. From there, I returned to my site. My vacation had ended.

In mid-October, after finishing up some Peace Corps-related business in Dar, I went up to the Lushoto area for a week.

That area, several hours north of Dar, is a really hilly area that struck me as similar to places I had seen in West Virginia: lots of mountains and valleys, a number of small villages, and lots - and lots - of forests. It was really green, too.

The mountains in that area are known as the Usambara Mountains.

Looking Out Upon the Hills

This photo was taken just outside of Lushoto town, the district capital. As can be seen, the whole area is mountainous and very, very green.

Visiting Irente Viewpoint

Different views from Irente Viewpoint: looking right from it (top), looking left from it (middle), looking out from it (bottom).

The same day I took the first photo on this entry, I visited Irente Viewpoint. That place is one with some incredible views of the plains below the Usambaras.

While there, I visited volunteers. It was nice; I got to say good-bye to a number of them who were in my staging group.

I first went to visit JE and RE. As it happened, a number of other volunteers from my group (who were finishing up their Peace Corps service) were there that weekend, so I got to say good-bye to them.

Got Cream or Sugar?

JE holding a french press with coffee inside.

Also, while I was there, I was able to have coffee. It's something that I don't get much of in Tanzania (most people here drink tea, plus most of what they sell is instant coffee, so good coffee can be difficult to come by).

A number of those who drink coffee from grounds (rather than instant) use something called a french press to filter it. To make coffee with it, you start by putting grounds into the bottom of it. Then, you pour boiling water into it.

After a few minutes, you use the press on the inside to press the coffee. The grounds are forced into the bottom, leaving you with coffee.

"C" Is For Cookie

Freshly-baked chocolate chip cookies. Mmmm...

While visiting JE and RE, we had chocolate chip cookies. They were hot, fresh, and really, really good (especially since I seldom get them in Tanzania).

Exploring the Neighborhood

Farms by hills (top). Bridge crossing a stream (bottom).

While visiting their site, I walked around a bit and did some exploring. It's a really pretty area; there are lots of hills, plus it's really green. As you can see, they actually have farms in that area.

(From what I saw, they grow a lot of fruit, as well as potatoes and cabbage.)

Viewing Kilimanjaro From the Usambaras

Dawn view of Mt. Kilimanjaro (left) and Mt. Meru (right) from the Usambaras

After a few days with JE and RE, I went up to a different part of the Usambaras. There, I visited JA and NC.

The morning after I arrived, I got up early and got to see Kilimanjaro (even though it was well over 100 miles from me) while the sun was rising. I could even see its ice caps glittering in the sunlight!

Doing More Exploring

View of fence with trees and hills (top); half-finished building, with fence in foreground and hills with terrace farms in the background (bottom).

While at NC's place, I walked around his school and took some photos. It's really, really pretty up there!

As you can see, people farm there as well. Some even use terraces for farming (which helps to prevent erosion).

Going New Places

That day (October 14, 2008 - Nyerere Day [the day Tanzania's first president passed away - it's a de facto national holiday]), JA, NC, and I walked to the nearby village of M___. We left NC's place, and walked there.

Pastoral view of hills and farms, Lushoto District, Tanga Region, Tanzania

On the way, we passed a number of farms on the hills.

The village of M___, as viewed from a distance. In the background are plains, with a few hills.

View of plains below M___, as taken from that village

Full Moon Rising Over the Usambaras

Part of Usambara Mountains, with full moon in background

After getting back from M___, NC and I went to JA's place, for supper. As we were going, the full moon rose.

From August through early December, I got to see other PVCs (Peace Corps Volunteers) in different parts of Tanzania:

Traveling Close to Home

DI, at her site, a little over 30 km (~20 mi) from my site. I went to visit her in mid-August, for a weekend.

Bidding Farewell

In late September, my site mate finished his service up, to return to America. So, several of us got together in late September to wish him farewell. (From left to right: AC ["Simba"], C, B, JeH, JaH, me.)

Wishing More Friends Safe Travels

In October, I went up to Lushoto, a hilly region several hours north of Dar. There, I met a number of volunteers, including some from my staging group who were close to finishing up their service. (Pictured, left to right: DB, CM, SR, JA, VK, and KL.)

Standing There, Enjoying the Scenery

Later, I went to a different part of Lushoto, to visit JA (left) and NC.

Touring a Zanzibar Primary School

Following my trip to Lushoto, I went to Zanzibar to visit SS. While on my visit, we went to a small island called Tumbatu, which is a bit northwest of Zanzibar (Unguja) island. There, we saw a primary school, as well as some Swahili civilization ruins dating back hundreds of years. (Pictured, left to right: G, school headmaster [he showed us around his school], SS.)

Giving Thanks for Everything

This year, I went to celebrate Thanksgiving with JP. (She had been in my staging group but has since finished up her service and is now an RPCV [Returned Peace Corps Volunteer].) However, as she and her fiance now have jobs in Tanzania, I highly doubt she will be returning to America any time soon.

On September 26, 2008, my students had their graduation. I had taught them since I had arrived here, in January 2007, so it meant a lot to get to see them finish their time at my school.

So, without further ado, here are some photos from graduation:

Entering Graduation Area

Graduating students marching into area where graduation was held

Around noon that day, the 2008 Form 4 students (the Class of 2008) marched into where graduation was to be held.

Getting Seated and Waiting

(left) Form 4 students sitting and waiting for graduation to start.

Eventually, they all made it in. Then, they sat down to wait for the festivities to start.

Most of them had started at my school in January, 2005. They had progressed from Form 1, through Form 4.

(So you know, Form 1 is similar to ninth grade, Form 2 to tenth grade, and so on.)

Entertaining the Crowds

Student falling down

Several students holding girl up

Student jumping over tire

They started out with an event called "sarkasi" (circus). Basically, it involved gymnastics. It was fun to watch, but, alas, only lasted ten minutes.

Speaking, Singing, and Dancing at Graduation

Later on, they had other events, including delivering speeches (thanking different people at the school for how they had helped them), ...

... singing songs, ...

... and dancing. There was also some acting.

Receiving O-level Diplomas

Finally, around 3 pm, all 133 students of the "Class of 2008" received their diplomas. (Pictured, from left to right: my school's headmaster, a member of parliament who came to deliver the commencement address, and a student receiving her diploma.)

Once students received their "leaving certificates" (certificates showing they had successfully completed Form 4 at a government O-level school [roughly equivalent to an American high school]), the MP delivered a speech.

Following that, we all went to eat. Then, people talked to each other for a couple of hours, before it got dark. The students, meanwhile, had a disco to celebrate graduation.

It was a good day.

In early August, my Staging Group met in Arusha National Park (near Arusha, Tanzania) for our Close of Service (COS) Conference. It was really good seeing everyone there! As expected, I got some pictures:

Introducing "Simba za Jumapili"

These people (from left to right JL, JK, and VK) were in my CBT Group (Community Based Training group - basically language learning) during training. We got to know each other well during that.

Each CBT group started out with four people. Fortunately, all four of us made it. :)

By the way, during training we gave ourselves a group name: Simba za Jumapili (Jumapili's Lions [Jumapili was one of our language teachers]).

Receiving Guidance for the Road Ahead

This is a picture of everyone (except for me - I took the photo) who was in our group at our COS conference.

There, we were listening to RPCVs (Returned Peace Corps Volunteers) talk about career choices they had made following their Peace Corps service.

Dancing the Night Away

During the second-to-last night at this conference, we had a dance. This picture is one of many I took that night. (Left to right: JP, KM, JA, and CW.)

Walking Around Arusha National Park

The last day we were there a number of us went on a walking safari of Arusha National Park. Here are four (of many) photos I took while there: Early on, we passed by this field. It was really beautiful, so I took some pictures. (Pictured: SS.) Unnamed aterfall at Arusha National Park. I didn't expect to see it here, but it was really pretty. It reminded me of Taughannock Falls, in New York state (which I saw in June 2006) This was another view. In the background were some buffalo.

Mt. Meru, Tanzania's second highest mountain. Most of the time it was covered by clouds, but, on the last day, a lot of them parted, so Meru was easier to see. Arusha National Park is a nice place. Yeah, there are animals (like buffalo, giraffes, and the like [but no rhinos or lions]), but its scenery is beautiful. It seemed to me to be worth visiting, just to see it.

Somehow, the English-language version of that loses something in the translation...

After the second term of 2007 ended, my parents arrived and we went on vacation.

One place we visited was Zanzibar (Unguja in Swahili).

Departing Dar Via Ferry

St. Joseph's Metropolitan Cathedral, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

"... red skies at night, sailors delight."

Sunset, Africa House Hotel, Stone Town, Zanzibar.

That place is a really good place from which to watch the sunset. Every night, a number of tourists show up to watch the sun as it sets. While this takes place, they order drinks, talk, and take pictures as they watch it go down.

Get Me to the Church on Time

Stone Town Catholic Cathedral

Above is Stone Town's catholic cathedral. It's easy to see, since its spires stand out above the town's other buildings. However, especially with the labyrinthine alleyways in that city, it is more than a little bit difficult to find.Preaching In the Midst of Slavery

Stone Town's Anglican Cathedral (located next to the city's old slave market)

Just Wanted to Say Hi

Giant tortoise, Prison Island, ZanzibarOn the last day we were on Unguja, we went to Prison Island (Kisiwa cha Changuu [Giant Tortoise Island in Swahili]). There, not surprisingly, they have a preserve that has a number of giant tortoises (that come from the Seychilles, which are in the Indian Ocean). Visitors there can pay to get in, and can even feed the tortoises if they get there at the right time.

In September 2007, my school held graduation for its Form Four students ("The Class of 2007").

Their Eyes Were Watching Graduation

My school's head boy (right) and one of its prefects (left)

Playing Graduation Games

Student participating in gymnastics games during graduation

Look, Ma, No Hands!

Student eating rice with his right foot

During graduation that year, a number of students put on different gymnastics-style games. These, including the two that are pictured, were highly entertaining watching.

Standing There, Just Laughing and ChattingFour of my students, in December 2007They Hold the Whole World Their Hands...

Five girls of the Class of 2008These five were the best girl students that I taught in 2007 and 2008. They were fun to teach, and made me feel good to teach, since I had little doubt they could do well in A-level (community college level) and university. (Photo taken in September 2008.)

After IST, I went to a Peace Corps meeting in Dar es Salaam, before going on my vacation, to Kilwa Kisiwani (south of Dar, along the coast).

Now for a bit of history.

For several hundred years, there was a trading network through the Indian Ocean, connecting East Africa, Arabia, Persia, India, Indonesia, and China. It was largely peaceful, and facilitated sharing of ideas (as well as buying and selling goods).

This trade, over time, greatly enriched the Swahili tongue. This language, which is Bantu in origin, gradually picked up words from different languages, including Arabic, Farsi, Portuguese, German, and English, among others. (64% of Swahili words are of Bantu origin, while 31% are of Arabic origin [a large number of those entered the language during the 19th century]. The rest come from different languages.)

One city-state in East Africa that did particularly well by this was Kilwa Kisiwani, which, for a while, was the strongest one along the coast.

It was founded over a thousand years ago, and gradually grew richer and more powerful (especially since it controlled the gold trade from Sofala, in Mozambique).

Its first peak was in the first half of the 14th century, which was when a number of structures were built.

During the second half of the 14th century, however, the Black Plague hit, which caused a worldwide economic depression (among many other bad effects).

Eventually, though, it recovered, so that by end of the 15th century it was richer than ever.

Then, the Portuguese arrived.

They passed by in 1498, and marvelled at how wealthy it was (fine houses, gardens, well-dressed people, etc.).

In 1502, they returned and attempted to take control. However, after paying a tax that year, Kilwa's sultan refused to pay it again.

So, in 1505, the Portuguese returned, attacked, and conquered it.

It took them eight years of plundering to ruin Kilwa.

After another two centuries, Kilwa began to recover, in part due to the slave trade. It was a tenuous recovery, though, and was halted only a few years later.

The rise of Zanzibar in the 19th century spelled Kilwa's end.

Now, it is a small fishing village, but surrounded by some impressive ruins, only a tenth of which have been excavated.

A Sultan Once Stood Here...

Harbor, as viewed from Husuni Kubwa

This is a view from Husuni Kubwa, which was built by an early 14th century Kilwa sultan. Half of it was his palace, which had rooms for him and his family, in addition to his harem. Also, there was a large room for welcoming and entertaining guests.

The other half of it was a large warehouse for storing goods.

It was built in the early 14th century, but was abandoned a few decades later.

Sultans Once Worshipped Here

Inside the Great Mosque of Kilwa

The same sultan who built Husuni Kubwa also greatly expanded Kilwa's main mosque. This structure, which is known today as the "Great Mosque," was the largest stone structure in sub-Saharan Africa when it was finished. Now, though, it is a ruin.

The Small Mosque Still Stands

A smaller mosque in Kilwa

Carving Ornate Doorways

Doorway from Neville Chittick's house

A number of Arab-style houses have carved doors. This is one, which was lived in by Chittick, the 20th century British archaeologist who excavated Kilwa.

Controlling the Conquered City-state

The Gereza, Kilwa Kisiwani

When the Portuguese conquered Kilwa Kisiwani, in 1505, they built a fort to help them better control the city. To construct it, they used material from surrounding houses.

They started out by calling it Igreja ("church," in Portuguese). Over time, though, the building became known as the Gereza, which, incidentally, is the Swahili word for "prison."

Not surprisingly, given it had been built by an invader, the guns and cannons of this fort were aimed at the town itself, rather than away from it.

When the Omanis conquered Kilwa, in the 17th century, they put rounded towers on the gereza.

Attending IST Sessions

Me, with my school's second headmaster at IST

In June 2007, after over six months apart (we were sent to different parts of this country [which is the size of Texas and New Mexico combined, minus good roads), we had an In-Service Training (IST) meeting in Iringa (a couple hundred miles west-southwest of Morogoro).

It was pretty good, especially since I got to see people I hadn't seen in several months.

As an aside, my counterpart at IST has since been transferred to a different school, to serve as its headmaster. He was a really good person to know while he was at my school.

Learning About Organic Gardening

Lining up to receive more training

Clearing dead grass and rubbish

One of the things we covered at that meeting was permaculture (permanent agriculture), which is, basically, organic gardening: no fertilizer, being careful of where you plant, and making sure you waste no water.

(It can actually work. I've seen one farm [that grows citrus, strawberries, and spices, among other things] near my site that uses it, and which is doing very well. I've also read about the Maya [in a National Geographic] and how they farmed; it sounds a lot like permaculture.)

For one whole day, we worked outside on a plot; we cleared it, dug ditches, and made beds for growing plants.

Riding By My Town

Crossroads near town I live in

This photo was taken on a road near the place I live, en route to a place where it is possible to buy sausage and smoked ham, as well as cheese (on occasion).

Buying and Selling, All Day Long

Two different views of my town's main market. There, it's possible to buy fresh fruits and vegetables, as well as legumes, rice, and fish. Also, it's relaxing just sitting there and hanging out with the "market mamas" (women who work there).

Plants Bloom in September

More views of my town. Both were taken near its hospital. The top one shows a jacaranda tree in full bloom (purple blossoms), with a bougainvillea plant below it and to the left (red blossoms). The bottom one shows a palm tree, with another jacaranda tree.

What I See Every Day

View from near my front door

Unfortunately, owing to Peace Corps regulations, I am not able to actually write on this blog where I live in Tanzania. So, let's just say that Don Mateo comes from a town in Ruvuma, whose name he does not wish to remember.

Starting Our Tanzanian Education

The secondary school I had my training at, near Morogoro town

We arrived in Dar at 9:40 pm on September 21, 2006. The following day, we had some meetings at the Peace Corps Headquarters there.

Then, on the 23rd, we went to Morogoro, for PST. (Morogoro is a large town about 150 miles [240 km] west of Dar. PST, or Pre-Service Training, is where we have our training: Swahili language, teaching, Tanzanian culture, and the like.) During PST, I had my language training sessions at Kihonda Secondary, in Morogoro. Also, it's where I started learning how to teach.

Touring Mikumi National Park

A large baobab tree at Mikumi

A baboon at Mikumi

In the middle of PST, we got a day off. Naturally, since there was a national park (Mikumi) near Morogoro (where PST was), we chose to go.

We saw a number of animals, including baboons, elephants, giraffes, wildebeasts, and buffaloes, but no lions (unfortunately).

In the middle of our tour, we stopped by a (really, really big) baobab tree (mbuyu in Swahili).

Later on, we saw a troop of baboons, one of whom actually posed for us. It was definitely a highlight of that trip.

Training As a Large Group

CCT, in Morogoro, where we held large-group training sessions.

During PST, our time was very tightly structured. From Monday through Friday we had lessons (Swahili, teaching, and culture) at different schools in and around Morogoro (where we did student teaching), while on Saturdays we met together at CCT, to had more sessions (on health, education, culture, and the like).

Going to My New Home for the Next Two Years

The Ruaha Gorge, between Morogoro and IringaAfter swearing-in (November 29, 2006 - no photos, unfortunately), we went to our sites. I took this on the 30th, in the Ruaha Gorge (west of Morogoro, but in that region).

I have taken a lot of photos since I came to this country, in 2006. Here are some of them, from Staging and on the flight to Dar. (Staging, a series of meetings on different aspects of Peace Corps life, was held in Philadelphia, PA from September 18-19, 2006. More importantly, it was the first time we met each other.)

Introducing a Few New Friends

Four people of my staging group, in Philadelphia, PA, on September 19, 2006. (Pictured, from left to right: SS, KM, JP, and GH ["Sly"].)

Hannibal Was Here...

Somewhere over the Alps (Switzerland or Italy)

On September 20, 2006, we boarded a bus to go to JFK International Airport, in New York, NY. That evening, a little before 7 pm, we flew out.

The next morning, a little after 7 am local time, we landed at Schiphol International Airport, Amsterdam, the Netherlands. Three hours later, we took off, to fly to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. After a brief stop at Kilimanjaro International Airport, between Arusha and Moshi (Tanzania), we continued on to Dar.

Welcome to my blog! I don't expect I'll be doing much until late 2008, when I am scheduled to return from my two years as a Peace Corps Volunteer in the Southern Highlands of Tanzania. So, don't be surprised if you don't see it updated much until then.