Welcome to Kerala, listed as one of the top 10 most beautiful places in the world (according to some guidebooks)- I can certainly say it's on my top 10 list. But prior to arriving at such beauty, five other girls and I had a fun evening of riding the overnight train. Our host mom in Thanjavur, Thendral, was so kind and offered to make us dinner to go since we were leaving right at dinner time- she drove to meet us at the train station because she didn't want us to be late but insisted on bringing homemade dosas, curried vegetables, and coconut chutney (to die for). She even waited around with us and helped us find our seats- she's such a sweetheart! The train ride was alright, although sleeping was challenging- something about the stopping and going and swaying kept me awake. But we arrived on time at 6am and were picked up by our driver who took us around Kochi, a town on the Arabian sea. We visited a lovely cathedral, walked along the beachfront- there were numerous Chinese fishing nets, fishermen, and fish, accompanied by swarms of cats and crows eagerly awaiting scraps. Oddly there were also a lot of chicken feet strewn about the sidewalk... interesting. We were all pleasantly surprised at how clean the area was overall- it might have been thanks to the abundance of funny animal-shaped garbage bins which I found amusing. After realizing that most places don't open before 9am we went ahead and left for Alleppey (properly known as Allepuzha), where we ate breakfast, visited a home where people weave rugs out of coconut fibers (really incredible to watch) and finally went to meet up with our houseboat. I had no idea what to expect, but after our short trek on foot down a muddy path to the waterfront I was pleasantly surprised to see large, beautiful boats with comfortable looking decks and rooms enclosed by woven palm-frond roofs. Our boat was more than welcoming, with comfy chairs and benches at the front in the open-air (where we spent most of today) and cute rooms for all of us, and just us. There's a kitchen at the back where our hosts prepare incredible home-cooked meals- lots of fresh seafood and coconut included- and even electricity and running water in the rooms. Who could ask for more? The rest of our day has been nothing but relaxing, enjoying a delicious lunch complete with whole, pan-fried fish, multiple fresh curries, rice, and freshly made tapioca desert (much better than your average tapioca pudding). Tea time included bananas fried in coconut oil, definitely decadent. After spending most of the day sailing around the seemingly endless waters separated by thin patches of land from vast fields of rice paddies, we docked next to an idyllic view and were greeted by a man who had just caught fresh prawns- he held one that was still alive out towards us. We were adventurous and bought one, which our hosts graciously cooked for us with enticing spices. So much delicious food, I'm looking forward to walking around a bit tomorrow to burn some of it off.

While I've been relaxing and on vacation, I still think about why I'm here- it's hard to stop thinking about peoples' health and livelihood here and what would work to improve some of the dramatic health disparities. India itself has tremendous variations in health outcomes across the country- in some of the northern states life expectancy and infant mortality rates are problematic, but in Tamil Nadu and especially Kerala, these areas are not nearly as big of an issue. Kerala was recently noted as having better health outcomes than the rest of India, and often by a long shot. My fellow travelers and I have been wondering why this is. From a day of observations, it appears that Kochin and Allepey at least have fairly good infrastructure- quality roads, garbage collection, laws in place for wearing helmets (and people actually wearing them, not a common sight in other places we've been)... not to mention the sense that people demonstrate caring for their wellbeing through exercise (there were numerous people exercising along the beachfront) and even wearing seatbelts (another rarity elsewhere I've been). It makes me question how these ideas and attitudes came to be- were these the result of strategic governmental promotions, or more a reflection of an overall variance in culture? How much does the environment play into it, with more availability of fresh and healthy foods and beautiful places to exercise? It's tough to say, but interesting to consider. Meanwhile I will continue to soak up the luscious green scenery surrounding me, the sounds of lapping waves, and the smells of cooked fish and coconut- a true paradise.

Erin and Shawn and I embarked on a quick weekend journey to Madurai, a city considered to be the cultural center of Tamil Nadu state. We were adventurous and took the bus- no air conditioning, but the open windows did us well, and the price- about $1- was hard to beat. It was nice to see the scenery and not feel like so much of a tourist, at least for those few hours. Upon arrival in Madurai, however, we joined the many other foreigners coming to the city to visit the magnificent Meenakshi Amman Temple and the Gandhi museum. Both of these places were awe-inspiring- one for its architecture and spiritual history, and the other for its detailed accounts of India's tumultous past and the noble efforts of a humble man to establish unity and independence in the region.

The temple, actually composed of two attached temples, consists of architecture dating back to the 17th century. Fourteen gopurams, or towers, rise above the temple walls to illustrate various mythologies with their thousands of intricate, colorful figures. The tallest of the gopurams consists of 1,411 individual figures- one can only imagine how long it took to construct such a thing. The ceilings and walls are decorated with the myths of Meenakshi's life and eventual marriage to Shiva, as she was considered to be an avatar of Parvati, Shiva's wife. Meenakshi was said to have been born without conception, with fish-shaped eyes and 3 breasts, one of which was destined to fall off when she met her true love. This happened when she first encountered Shiva, and the two were married. Various statues and paintings throughout the temple illustrate their meeting and lives together.

It was amazing to see the temple come to life with so many visitors- a multitude of devoted Hindus, people celebrating weddings and births, and foreigners from all over. Many of the stone statues were carved from huge single stones and covered with chalk and ash markings, which people leave as blessings and prayers. Music rings throughout the imposing stone walls and even as an outsider I could not help but feel that I was in a very special place.

After getting a taste of the history and significance of the temple, we explored the city in all its chaos and noise, a welcome change from the rather quiet outskirts of Thanjavur. We had delicious meals, including mango ice cream, and visited a hilarious bar in the basement of a hotel- it was built to resemble the interior of a spaceship, complete with light-up consolses, a bizarre metal portal for a door, and futuristic seats. The musical selection included Tamil pop music, which we're now very familiar with, and some American pop music from the 1990s- a fun and eclectic mix to listen to as we journeyed into space.

In complete contrast, we visited the large Gandhi museum located close to our hotel. I had known very little about the history of India and about Gandhi himself, but the museum filled in the gaps in my knowledge. India has suffered great conflict and tumult both from internal and external forces, and especially the British. It was painful to read about the exploitations of the East India Company and the brutal attacks on anyone resisting British rule. Gandhi's role as a non-violent leader seemed crucial for India's spirit and autonomy- although it is unfortunate that his vision of a united India was not realized, as the division between India and Pakistan still occurred. Nevertheless, it was inspiring and heart-wrenching to read about Gandhi's passion and self-sacrifice in the name of his country and people. It is unfortunate that so few people have both the ability and the audacity to stand up for the wellbeing of people as a whole, rather than remaining under the oppressive will of the privileged. And it is more unfortunate that there are still those who willingly oppress and exploit those who lack the power to resist. Although I don't have the answers to ending such suffering, I am thankful for the inspiration and example that Gandhi and other remarkable people provide.

Back in Thanjavur, this week holds further progress on our implementation and evaluation plans- writing, researching, and our final field visits to be sure that our ideas are feasible and useful for ICTPH, and of course, in the best interest of the people who live here. I still struggle coming to terms with the idea that in such a short time we can provide something that is really useful, culturally-appropriate, and likely to succeed, but I am hopeful that with ICTPH's investment in the rural communities they work in, they will be able to tailor our interventions according to meet the needs of the people there.

This weekend was a welcome break from after some intense work over the last month- a group of 9 of us students ventured to Kodaikanal, a town way up in the Palni Hills, part of the Western Ghats range in Tamil Nadu (west of Thanjavur). I wasn't sure what to expect, as I heard a variety of estimates of the weather ranging from high 90s to rainy and 60s... I packed a variety of clothes, and was thankful for the few long-sleeved items and rain jacket since a mild, chilly and damp terrain greeted us. We managed to catch a beautiful sunset as we approached the base of the hills, but missed out on the scenery as we swerved around incessant curves, climbing ever higher for nearly 2 hours- finally we saw lights going up and down the hillside and into the valley below. We stayed at the Dalethorpe guest house, where the very kind owner greeted us enthusiastically. We were all surprised at the chill and the damp in the air, and I was excited because it felt so much like Oregon! It was nice to be cold and make myself at home in the little cabin behind the guesthouse, fireplace included! We awoke the next day to a chilly and grayish morning, eating omelettes and limitless toast provided by our gracious host. Kodaikanal is known for it's tremendous trees, waterfalls, and other natural wonders, so we set off to explore with the guesthouse owner as our guide. We drove up the hills to a trailhead guarded by monkeys (luckily they weren't being scary) and leading down to a small waterfall. It was disheartening to see trash on the trail and even in the water, but I tried to let it slide so I could enjoy the experience- being in the woods, not being hot, and listening to flowing water made me perfectly content. I even discovered some recognizable plants- sourgrass (a.k.a. oxalis), stinging nettles, ferns... again, it made me nostalgic for Oregon. We continued downstream and saw several other small waterfalls, took pictures, and enjoyed the little bit of rain along the way. After that hike we continued to another trail further up the road. We traversed beneath tall and spindly eucalyptus trees and next to a rock wall protecting a pear orchard, and occasionally got glimpses of the lush green mountainsides beyond the trees. We approached a clearing and, despite the misty haze, we could see towering mountains all around us, abundant forests descending into a vibrant valley- it was incredible. We all grew silent and approached the edges of the cliff, wearily peering down the steep drop into the abyss. I got a little dizzy as I approached the edge, the sheer height was hard to comprehend. As I peered over I discovered a tiny waterfall deep in the valley and wished I'd brought a parachute so I could drop down and see it up close. As the clouds grew darker we headed back toward the car and proceeded to get completely drenched over the hour walk. It was nice to have a hot lunch, complete with a cafe au lait and pizza, to warm up after the rain. I explored the town a bit, discovering some fun craft and jewelry stores, and even a restaurant/hotel called the Astoria! Needless to say I was excited. It was strange to be in a more touristy area than Thanjavur- seeing white people was a strange phenomenon, and having tourist attractions like paddle boats and even "Fun Park" - complete with zorb ball (not sure what that is) and shooting sports (yikes)- made me confused about where I was.

The next day involved more hiking- returning to the amazing place on the cliffs, and then proceeding further to hike down to Dolphin's Nose- a rock outcrop overlooking the same valley but from a different angle. The trail was a tough one, with sharp declines, rocky terrain, and even a long stretch of "steps" composed of elaborate root systems. It was beautiful, though, and the views from the ridge, although scary at times, were amazing. After wearing ourselves out, we ate at a Punjabi restaurant (north Indian cuisine), where I was excited to have chana masala (spicy chickpea curry) with vegetable-stuffed Kulcha (delicious tandoori-oven-toasted flatbread). Needless to say, I ate to my heart's (or at least my stomach's) content. Lunch was followed by a stroll around Coaker's Walk, a brick pathway along the mountain ridge built in 1872- again, more amazing views of the mountains and valleys, along with a nice glimpse of the town from afar. Some of us explored the lakeside as well, which was beautiful despite the heavy traffic and numerous vendors surrounding it. I was so happy to get to see yet another diverse piece of India, and to experience cold and rain after a long month of relentless heat. And since I love food, I should also mention our excitement at discovering that Kodaikanal is known for their handmade chocolates, and also some fruits that are hard to find elsewhere such as avocado, starfruit, mangosteen, and pears- all to my taste buds' delight!

The trip home was just as stunning- coming down the mountain in the daytime was exhilarating, seeing the endless forest and dramatic plunges into deep valleys- I tried not to think about the narrow road and the often frightening driving conditions. We passed Rat's Tail falls- a very narrow and insanely tall waterfall that I would have missed if I hadn't been so excitedly eyeing the scenery. Truly some amazing places that I'm thankful to have the opportunity to see.

The past week has been a hodgepodge of exploration, some enjoyable retreats, and a heaping pile of work. It's crunch time for our initial research papers in which we discuss the background of our diseases, how they impact people in India, what resources are currently available, and what our proposed interventions are. It will be exciting to have a finished product in hand, but the pressure of producing a useful and well-researched product is palpable.

Part of the field research conducted by our gastrointestinal diseases team (and the CVD team since we happened to be along for the ride) was to visit the Ambulappatu water storage tank and witness the monthly cleaning. This was not quite as exciting as I had anticipated, but interesting nonetheless. The storage tank holds about 100,000 liters of water to be used by people in the small village, which is disbursed by pipes reaching to several public taps. We've learned that an incredible amount of contamination can occur between the tank and the taps, as cracks in the pipes are common- from natural wear and tear, or from animals/vehicles/people damaging them. This is unfortunate considering the high rates of open defecation by both people and animals, pollution from the roads, and bacteria from the sitting water in the rice paddies have easy access to the water that people drink. At the source, the water tank is emptied on a monthly basis and then refilled, and a bucket containing chlorine (just enough to kill the bacteria for a short while) is lowered into the fresh water and swished around. Once the G.I. team has access to water testing kits, samples of water at the source and at the taps will be taken to see where and what types of contamination are occurring. It will be interesting to find out!

Over the weekend I ventured out with some of the interns from ICTPH (the program I'm working with) and Mukesh, the son of the owner of the guesthouse where we stay- he was a helpful tour guide, taking us to the Thanjavur Palace- a rustic concrete building that was once home to Thanjavur Kings, up until the 19th century. It was complete with winding, steep staircases (one of which ascended into complete darkness), connecting multiple levels of open-air platforms with nice views of the surrounding town. After the palace we visited the museum and library next door to learn about the history of Thanjavur's kings and to see some of the oldest scriptures written on palm bark. An interesting day to say the least.

Yesterday our group was given a chance to present our project ideas to the president of IKP Trust (the umbrella organization for ICTPH) and all of the ICTPH staff. It was a little intimidating, but a great opportunity to get feedback from people who will be involved in the implementation of our projects, should they decide they're worthwhile. It was exciting to finally hear about what my colleagues have been learning about, since there is some segmentation between groups. After a barrage of questions and comments, we were lucky enough to be treated to a relaxing day at the Ideal River View Resort (it lives up to its name, sitting right on the bank of a lovely river), including some delicious food and several hours spent in and out of the enormous outdoor pool. It was the calm before the storm, however, as we are all engulfed in work for the next two days, anxious to finish the first piece of our work here.

Yesterday was amazing, there is no other way to put it. We went early to Karambayam village to meet with one of the community health workers- we wanted to see how women cook in the village as part of the research for our proposed interventions, as well as just out of personal curiosity. One of our instructors, Ravi, and one of the ICTPH workers from Thanjavur accompanied us to the woman's tiny, concrete hut with a woven palm frond roof. We crouched inside and were asked to sit on a blanket at the back of the house near the 4-ft.-high back door opening. We could see right away a cooking apparatus carved from earth- 2 circular openings with space on one side for wood to be inserted for making a fire, with holes to place the pots just above the flames. A similar stove apparatus made of stone was in the woman's house as well. We were excited to watch as she prepared rice and proceeded to cut vegetables on a hook-like blade branching off of a wooden plank- she chopped mangoes (part of which we were allowed to eat, so good!), tomatoes, onions, potatoes, eggplant, and "drumstick" (a long tube-like vegetable). At the front of the same plank to which the hook-blade was fastened was a metal, ridged, spade-shaped device- I was intrigued by it and happy to see it in action as the woman proceeded to take half of a palm coconut and rub the inside against the device, creating tiny grated pieces of coconut. She was able to grate every last bit of the coconut out of its shell- a very efficient tool. Next, the woman proceeded to crush cumin, fennel, and other spices with the grated coconut, onions, and garlic, using a 10-pound stone tool resembling a fat rolling pin. She rolled the tool over the spice mix across a flat stone surface, creating a finely crushed mixture that smelled incredible. Meanwhile fresh tamarind was soaking in a bowl of water- this water was later added to the curry for extra citrusy flavoring. All of these items were mixed together with the other vegetables, oil, and heaping teaspoons of salt (we were sure to observe how much for our research) in a metal pot over the second fire pit in the stove. As we waited for the food to cook, an elderly woman accidentally let two chickens into the house, creating an entertaining commotion as they flew/climbed through my hair to get out the backdoor. We tasted some of the crushed spices and I was pleased to hear and taste that none of them contained salt- the only salt included in the meal was the iodized salt itself- and thus we knew what to measure to see how much an average meal contains. We also asked the woman how much her family of 4 consumes in a week, and were a little shocked to find the amount to be exceptionally high. But this didn't distract us from the pleasure of sharing the incredible process and flavors of a truly fresh meal. Once the rice was finished, the woman placed it on a banana leaf and brought out steaming bowl of curry to accompany it- we just had to taste it! It was the most amazing curry I have ever consumed, especially the eggplants fresh from the garden!

After this wonderful experience we were invited to meet with the secretary for some of the Karambayam self help groups- women's groups that are organized around the desire to save money for small business ventures such as tea stalls (small shops). The concept is aimed at empowering women to learn about finances and take initiative to support themselves and their families through microfinance. In the Karambayam area, there are 35 groups of around 20 women who all contribute a small amount monthly to a savings account, and then their shares are matched with government loans for individual or collective business ventures, as well as small emergencies, transportation to events, or other incidentals. The secretary of the self help groups was happy to meet with us and give us some helpful feedback about how these groups might be willing to help us raise awareness about hypertnesion management through small dietary changes- it sounded very promising. After our meeting we were directed to the back of the house to see a woman cracking crabs by hand- she insisted that we hold them and take pictures. It was comical and fun to say the least.

At the end of the day we were able to meet with the village Panchayat President (a local government leader) in Ambulapatti (a village very close by) to briefly discuss our idea and ask for her support. She expressed support for our work and invited us back to visit again.

All in all, this was my favorite field visit- both educational and inspiring, and reminding me why I am here.

Next up: a trip to see how they clean the local water supply tanks! Interesting tales to follow.

The weekend held a number of fun adventures and learning experiences. On Friday I was determined to explore the town of Thanjavur and find out more about the place I've been living. I ventured out on my own into the heart of town, which is busy and lively and full of... well everything! People, cows, vendors, garbage, cars, motorbikes, rickshaws, fruit, flowers... there's something for everyone here. I was continually amazed at the sheer numbers of people (although it's still notably far less chaotic than Chennai) and vendors in particular- if you want sarees, there are at least 10 stores in a block. Need jewelry? Just go to one of the 50ish vendors in a half mile radius. I visited numerous shops of all kinds just to get a feel for what was out there. I wandered around admiring the seemingly ancient architecture intermingled with newer homes and vending stalls. I stumbled upon a neighborhood with a cluster of tiny stalls for what appeared to be handicrafters, metalworkers, sawyers, and other manual laborers perfecting their talents- it was incredibly intriguing to watch and admire the use of hand-powered tools and other appliances we would rarely see in the U.S.

On the work side of things, our class learned about maternal and child health, looking at the tremendous improvements that have been made in India over time, especially in the region we are in- Tamil Nadu. Infant mortality has declined significantly, and the fairly recent government-run primary health clinics that we've been visiting have played a large role in that. Women can receive incentives for delivering their babies in a medical facility, and thus fewer women are delivering at home where there is increased danger to the mother and child. There is still a fairly common problem of children being undernourished, sometimes due to the mothers being malnourished and unable to breastfeed, and for other reasons as well. Tamil Nadu overall, however, has a lot to show for the health and wellbeing of mothers and children.

Our project is moving along smoothly- my group is digging deeper to find out what foods are locally available, what people are purchasing and cooking, and what modifications may be feasible to help improve the health of people with hypertension. Tomorrow we will do a fruit and vegetable inventory of Karambayam, looking at what trees are nearby, what is being sold at the small shops, and what people have in their homes. I'm looking forward to also visiting with one or two women as they prepare a meal to see how they measure ingredients (if they do), how much salt and oil goes into the food, etc. We'll also explore what venues, if any, exist for physical activity (other than the physical labor that many people engage in for work) to see if it's feasible for people to incorporate exercise into their daily lives. While I know that lifestyle changes can be a hard sell, the feedback we have received from the village residents we've spoken with implies a willingness to adapt their lifestyles if it means better health. If nothing else, making sure that people have the information about how to take care of themselves is worth the effort. People can and will continue to make their own choices, but at least our efforts here will have contributed something to the community, however small.

This week has brought about some new insights into cardiovascular disease in southern India, specifically in Karambayam. The nuances of everyday life in a village are returning to me from my experiences in Botswana- I feel at home just getting to know people in the village, exploring small shops and even looking at garbage to get a sense of what impacts peoples' health in Karambayam. Although I know that life is far more complicated than several weeks of observation and interactions can illustrate, I am hopeful that I'll be able to contribute something useful to the people I'm working with. Yesterday's field visit was both fun and informative- we visited two households and several small shops. The first family we spoke with consisted of a husband and wife- the husband surprised us with his English-speaking abilities and the wife helped us understand how she dealt with her high blood pressure. It was really interesting to hear about her experiences interacting with the healthcare system- she travels to another town to see a doctor because she doesn't know enough about the clinics nearby; when she was diagnosed with hypertension she didn't receive any information about the condition or how she could deal with the condition except for taking the pills she was prescribed, which she claimed she didn't take regularly. She revealed that she did not know if eating differently or exercising would impact her health, but she said that if her doctor told her it would she would be willing to adjust her cooking accordingly. This story seemed to resonate with the other people we spoke to in the village- knowledge about how to manage cardiovascular risk factors by means other than medication was minimal, and willingness to adjust cooking practices for health purposes was strong. Through this information our team was able to get a better idea of what we might wish to do for our proposed intervention.As we walked away from the first house, an elderly woman with few teeth approached us, unable to speak but making sounds and motions to indicate that she requested our company at her home. It was very sweet and we consented, taking a seat on the front stoop and greeting her middle-aged daughter who emerged from the house. The two of them were very friendly, and the older woman continuously patted my back- her daughter told me she thought I was pretty- it made my day. Sitting on the stoop having a casual conversation with complete strangers brought back so many fond memories of my experiences in Botswana- the way that life takes its own trajectory and time becomes a meaningless construct. We were able to speak with the women about their health experiences as well and received similar information to indicate that healthcare was being sought elsewhere, that doctors rarely recommended lifestyle changes but primarily prescribed medication with little explanation, and that people would be willing to make small changes to their diets for overall health.Following this encounter, we visited a line of small shops along the main road where people can purchase a variety of foods, toys, school supplies, and tobacco. We spoke with a few of the shopkeepers and learned that the most commonly sold items were cigarettes, and that even children bought them (they were sure to change out of their school uniforms in an effort for people to not notice their ages). A variety of vegetables and grains were available, including tomatoes, garlic, onions, "drumstick" (a tube-shaped stalk with a hard outer shell and soft inside), eggplant, radishes, chillies, potatoes, okra, rice, pasta- considering the size of the shops, it was surprising to see such variety. I looked at some small packets for sale and bought one to investigate- I was told it was used in Chinese-Indian food and that it wasn't very popular- I was happy to hear it since this substance was straight-up MSG. Sold in a packet in crystals like salt, recommended for a variety of foods and said to "make food taste better." I recalled my migraine headaches and nausea resulting from food with large amounts of MSG in it- not an experience I would wish on anyone else. There was a small bar down the road called a Tasmac- a small shop without chairs where only men can go to purchase hard liquor and beer (it is generally unacceptable for women to drink here). There were a handful of men hovering around it, and one of my instructors went to check out the scene. While there he witnessed a small boy purchasing and running off with bottles of beer, although when asked the bartender said he did not sell to children. I tried to absorb everything from the day, but it was hard to let it all sink in- so many intricacies and complicated webs of issues surrounding health, it is hard to imagine how to even address a small part of it. And yet I am still hopeful.

Yesterday yielded an interesting yet somewhat frustrating day in the field, in a small village known as Karambayam. As our groups further defines our projects, looking at determinants of disease and brainstorming potential ways to address them within the local context, we sought answers about what daily life is like in the villages we're visiting. This approach has inherent limitations, given that we're only here a short amount of time, our field visits are a few hours a day, and we have a very limited knowledge of the language, making communication challenging. We were fortunate enough to have a brief encounter with the SughaVazhvu guides- women living within Karambayam selected and trained to conduct household visits and assist people in accessing medical care. Although we had only a brief time to visit with them, we learned about some of the main concerns facing people in Karambayam (hypertension being one that my CVD team took note of), and how people view community health workers. It seems that these women are viewed positively and trusted within the community, improving the likelihood that people will get accurate information about their illnesses and seek help at the rural micro-health center. That being said, many key issues still exist in the community, such as high rates of tobacco and alcohol use (mostly among men) and limited physical activity, especially for women who are confined to home a lot of the time. There are overwhelming factors that contribute to heart disease, similar to those that exist in the U.S., but often more complicated by poverty and lack of knowledge about how behavior impacts health. It will definitely be challenging one specific area to focus on for our proposed intervention. Hopefully future field visits will provide more insight into how we can provide something useful and appropriate for the context.

Research aside, it was nice to be able to visit with people in the village- everyone was very welcoming and curious about us. I'm looking forward to meeting more people and spending more time in one of the villages, although we're not yet sure which area we want to focus on.

The rest of our weekend in Pondicherry provided an interesting exposure to another part of Tamil Nadu district and life in India in general. Here are some observations, but keep in mind- these are just my thoughts- others may have different opinions.

Pondicherry is known for its history of French colonization, still evident by from its street names (Rue de St. Louis, for example) to the grandiose European-style architecture. Pondicherry is host to tourists from a wide variety of places- we encountered people from various places in India and surrounding countries, France, Germany, the U.K., and a few other Americans. Despite the outside influence, Pondicherry still appears to maintain cultural strength, demonstrated by the dress code (women wearing saris and salwar kamees), food, and lifestyle. It was conflicting to encounter extreme poverty mingled with ritzy tourist hotels and restaurants- the contrast was stark and disheartening. While walking down a side-street, we encountered a woman and her two small children washing their clothes and dishes in a filthy water drainage area- the water was literally brown and green- and this is how many people have to survive in India. Along the way to Pondicherry we witnessed people swimming and doing laundry in the same standing water that served as a garbage dump. It is mind boggling to think about how these conditions came about and how they might be improved.

As a sharp contrast, our group celebrated Shawn's birthday last night at a fancy rooftop restaurant near the beach. We had met a few other Americans earlier in the day who joined us for dinner- one was living in Chennai, working for a Leprosy clinic; another was doing her anthropology dissertation in a small village, working with children with disabilities, and the other was volunteering at the same organization for children with disabilities. It was interesting to gain some other perspectives about life in India as a foreigner and particularly working in such unique settings. The girl from Chennai shared her stories from the clinic, as well as her trip to a factory where clothing is made for Wal Mart- she was horrified at the working conditions, with women and young girls having to work long hours with minimal pay and only one short and regimented break. I couldn't help but think about the ultimate impact that we, as Americans, have on so many people just by participating in small routine procedures, like buying a shirt from Wal Mart. Not that I haven't thought of this before, but here it seems more real, actually seeing the people who ultimately bear the brunt of our consumerism.

Besides thoughts of leprosy and exploited workers, our dinner was pleasant and a nice way to end our last evening of vacation. The trip back to Thanjavur was intriguing- we took a back-roads route through several small villages, some bearing communist flags and numerous political signs, as well as tiny rural villages with numerous billboards for fancy jewelry shops. We passed fields of cows and goats, rice paddies, and some beautiful water-scapes complete with swimmers and a crocodile sunning itself. It was comforting to see the Big Temple as we arrived back in Thanjavur, to rest and process a rejuvenating and yet conflicting weekend.

Nine of my classmates and I hired a van and driver to whisk us away to Puducherry, also known as Pondicherry, a formerly French-colonized town on the coast of the Bay of Bengal. The trip took a good 5 hours, driving past seemingly endless stretches of open land- some rice paddies, some open fields, and some grazing land for cows, sheep, and goats- occasionally interrupted by bustling towns. We passed through several toll stations and then had to get a permit to enter Puducherry- I've heard that Puducherry does not tax alcohol and other "sinful" products and therefore is a popular destination for in'n'out shopping, so the government has instituted permit fees to enter the city. We went to the permit station, but unfortunately it was closed- unfortunately the only way to get a permit was to go back a good half an hour to get a permit. It was difficult to understand the driver and a few people got concerned about what we were doing, especially since it was dark, none of us knew our way around and we were going to a remote area. We turned onto a deserted road and someone mentioned that things were getting a little creepy- but as the driver realized he had missed a turn to go under the highway to the other side, he put the car in reverse and instead of a beep beep reverse sound, Jingle Bells started playing. It was hilarious, all of us singing Jingle Bells in the dark in the middle of nowhere. Needless to say, everything worked out and we made it, tired and hungry, to Ginger- an affordable but semi-luxurious motel with a restaurant, comfortable beds, and functioning showers. I slept like a rock.

Today we ventured into the busy town, admiring the French-influence architecture, bicycle rickshaws, and occasional beach views. Although the beach is a bit dirty, it was still thrilling to see and hear crashing waves. We all put our feet in the water and felt instantly cooled against the unforgiving summer sun.

After walking all over in search of a park we'd passed on our drive on the way to the beach, we finally gave up tried to explain to rickshaw drivers where we were trying to go. We got in and drove literally around the corner, only to see the park right there. This is turning out to be a very comical trip.

Lunch at Le Dupleix- built in the 1800s as the home for the French mayor, the building was impressive and the food was delightful. A welcome reprieve from the heat of the day, followed by some time sitting on the hot rocks at the beach. An ideal day to say the least, and it's not even over yet.

Yesterday several members of our group, as well as our two instructors, ventured to the Big Temple in the town we're staying in, Thanjavur. The Big Temple (also known as the Brihadeeswarar Temple) is an incredible series of constructions dating back to the year 1002, although many additions have taken place since then. The highest temple tower is a sight to behold- carved stone reaching 63 meters (189 feet) high, and illustrating 16 different stories through detailed carvings. Although we were told by our tour guide that the temple was built from a single stone, I've since done my research and seen otherwise. Regardless, this is one of the most amazing structures I have ever seen and remains a World Heritage Site for a reason! As we entered the temple grounds, we were beckoned by a man with an elephant to stand nearby as the elephant put his trunk over each of our heads- it was the funniest sensation feeling the hot and smelly air blowing over my head! After that entertaining experience, we were fortunate enough to enter the temple to see how the procedures within take place, where people are presented to Shiva and receive a blessing in return- it was truly a magical experience to be at the heart of something so grand. We also entered a smaller temple on the grounds which was devoted to Ganesha, which was also an interesting and unique experience. Strands of flowers were presented to us and we were marked with red ash to symbolize life, in contrast to the white ash we had received in the other temple that represented destruction of life (or destruction of the self). Visiting the temple was a peaceful and powerful experience.

The past 2 days we have been getting down to the nitty gritty of our coursework, learning to implement basic public health strategies in the field, to be able to identify what is "normal" health and what is not. We were trained in performing basic dental/oral examinations to check for any obvious issues with the mouth, jaw, gums, and teeth- it was pretty entertaining getting to practice on our classmates. Today we discussed GI health, specifically problems associated with diarrhea since that is one of the primary causes of death in the developing world. We practiced making oral rehydration solution (ORS) to use when dehydrated, and learned how to chlorinate water in order to purify it for drinking (although this was not complicated, it was interesting to taste the chlorinated water just to get an idea of what it's like and why some people are resistant to using it). In the future we will learn other practical skills related to the other illness areas we are studying- cardiovascular health, cancer, and maternal and child health.

As for tomorrow, several of us are planning a trip to Puducherry (formerly known as Pondicherry), a region of India formerly colonized by the French and therefore having different architecture and points of interest. Pictures and stories coming soon!

Left: Rural Micro-Health Center; Below: View from RMHC

Below: Pepper growing at RMHC; Right: Waiting room at RMHC

Above Left: Water buffalo; Above right: delivery room at primary health center

Above left: hallway at primary health center; above right- a house and bike in Sholapuram

Above left: grass huts at Sholapuram; Right: temple at Sholapuram

Today brought some helpful insights into some of the public health concerns facing rural India, as well as a chance to view some amazing scenery and meet interesting and friendly people. Our class group was divided into smaller subgroups which allowed us to visit multiple sites simultaneously and converse more easily with people. My group first visited Sholapuram, a very small and remote village about 40 minutes outside of Thanjavur. The village straddles a narrow, winding paved road, shaded by palm and Eucalyptus trees. To get there we passed by fields of rice paddies, small clusters of skinny trees and palms, numerous cows and water buffalo, and a few dried up dams. We passed through a couple of tiny villages as well, consisting of a few stores and tiny shops, people, free-roaming animals, and lines of bikes. Despite being so small, each village we passed was alive with activity.

There is no formal health facility in Sholapuram- the nearest primary health clinic (PHC, run by the government) is about 3km away- not too far. But we visited the village mostly to get a feel for how daily life is. We took a long stroll passed the primary and secondary school (combined into one), the one water tower that serves as the primary source for the village water, a fading temple, and an intersection which serves as the village bus stop. A truck sat nearby, selling betel leaves wrapped in palm-frond bundles- these are used to wrap areca nuts (referred to as betel nuts), and often tobacco, to be chewed for their stimulating effects.

We stopped to chat with some people running a small stand near the bus stop. We learned that most people in the area survived by performing agricultural work, primarily at rice paddies and growing groundnuts (peanuts), egglplant, lentils, and radishes. Even children begin helping with the work at the age of 10 or 11. Most people in the village grow food for themselves and sell whatever is leftover. There is one tiny grocery stall selling a few vegetables (brought in from Thanjavur) and packaged spices, a few cold drinks, snacks, tobacco and few household items. We spoke with a woman about when and why she would go to a clinic, and she said when she had a fever or other ailment. Preventative healthcare is still unfamiliar in these areas, and understandably given that there is not a clinic in the village itself, not to mention that even in more developed countries preventative care is a challenge. This is something we will consider when thinking about our recommendations for addressing cardiovascular health.

Next we went to the nearest primary health clinic (PHC), in Vadakkur. The clinic is a concrete building consisting of about 10 rooms, including a delivery room, and recovery room for after births and procedures, a procedure room, an injection room, a room for administering DOTS (directly observed treatment, short-course) for tuberculosis. As in many other developing countries, tuberculosis is a rampant problem and especially challenging to treat when medicines are either not administered or taken correctly, as it is easy to build resistance to them. DOTS helps to address this problem by having a nurse or physician present to witness patients taking their medication on a daily basis.

While at the clinic, one of our facilitators from ICTPH fainted, most likely from the heat- it was very unfortunate, although it did provide an opportunity for us to see the nurses in action. We discussed the services offered by the clinic which are diverse and free, but we also learned about the paper record-keeping system that does not account for patients having multiple visits- follow-up with patients is not common since no individual patient medical records are kept. This is one shortcoming that ICTPH is trying to address with their programs.

Our final stop was in Andipatti, a slightly larger village where the newest ICTPH rural micro-health center (RMHC) resides. The RMHC was a lovely facility overlooking a field of pepper and eggplant bushes, as well as numerous palms and mango trees. It was idyllic to say the least. Unfortunately we were unable to visit with the nurses working there, as there were patients there at the time, but it was nice to see the facility nonetheless. As we continue our field visits we will decide in our groups what village(s) we wish to focus our proposed interventions on.

I am trying to absorb as much information as possible, as there is so much to learn- about India's government, politics, public and private healthcare, cultures, history- it can be overwhelming, but so rewarding and interesting to be having this experience. I look forward to continuing this journey.

Today's events were interesting to say the lesat- our group ventured out to Alakudi, a village of about 3,000 people, for our first field visit. Despite the brutally hot weather, we explored the village, visiting the primary and secondary schools (third and second to last pictures here), and the ICDS (last picture featured here)- a childcare program that offers meals in hopes of curbing some of the malnourishment that is common in the village. Near the schools was the water tower which supplies most of the villages water and a public toilet that was supposed to serve the community but was never provided with functioning plumbing. Unfortunately there is no plumbing in the village, and open sewers line the dirt roads. We walked along an open defecation area, where farmworkers go where they please- it's understandable, given that there are no other options nearby.

We visited the ICTPH clinic- a small building with one exam room and a waiting area- and visited with a doctor there to get some ideas about what happens at the clinic, what key issues people in the village are facing, and how outreach works. We were fortunate enough to tag along on a home visit to see outreach really works- ICTPH visits families and records their basic information in android phones, and then creates maps of where patients are so that trends in health issues can be better understood. The family we visited were very welcoming, and a group of curious kids followed us throughout the village, speaking English and asking our names. I asked to take a picture of some of the girls with Erin, and an older woman saw me take the photograph and motioned for me to take her picture as well. A group of rambunctious boys jumped in front of her to have their picture taken as well, making for a silly picture.

Following our home visit, we trekked out to the outskirts of town, following the periphery of the rice paddies, to the PHC- a government primary health clinic. A doctor met with us and was kind enough to answer our questions, of which we had many. We tried to gain a better understanding of what role the government health center plays in the community, versus the role of private companies like ICTPH. We have a lot to learn!

Our group left Chennai a few nights ago for the more rural and slower-paced Thanjavur, a welcome relief from the bustle and overstimulation of the big city. We took an overnight train, which had numerous small bunks separated by curtains- it was definitely an adventure. Unfortunately I was beginning to develop a cold and a man with a snore sounding like chainsaws kept me awake for most of the night, so by morning I felt a little worse for wear. Nonetheless, it was beautiful to see the fields of rice paddies as the sun was coming up and realize we were in a totally different world. The sand and brush combination reminded me so much of Botswana, except for the palm trees of course. We were graciously driven to our guest house, which sits on a dirt road between two busy streets and some open land with trees and brush, the occasional cow or dog, and a plethora of interesting (and very vocal) birds. Crows abound, and small green birds resembling parrots occasionally appear. Erin and I were pleased to find a comfy and brightly painted room with a luxurious flushing toilet and even a shower and air conditioning. Despite the somewhat regular power outages that Thanjavur experiences, I think life here will be pleasant.

My cold has kept me from exploring too much in the past 2 days, but I managed to go walking around the town this morning before most people awoke, and found it very interesting- a mix of small concrete and tin stalls selling sweets, vegetables, snacks, etc., mixed in with a few larger companies like banks and hospitals.

We had our first "real" class today, discussing quantitative and qualitative components of our work here, and getting an opportunity to speak with our local counterparts who head the subject areas we'll be covering (cancer, GI, maternal and child health, oral health, and heart health). It was exciting to start to get an idea about what is going on in the rural villages we'll be working with, what is working so far, and what areas need improvement as far as health services are concerned. Despite my congested and foggy head, the wheels are beginning to turn with ideas about what we'll be doing here and how we can hopefully offer something useful in the short time we're here. I am excited for the learning experiences ahead.

We also received our saris form ICTPH, which we will have tailored to fit us tomorrow. And tomorrow will be our first field visit to one of the 3 rural communities we'll be working with - Allakudi- I'm excited to see it!

Pictures are of: In and around the guesthouse, on the train, Thanjavur train station, rice paddies seen from the train

Today our group visited Mahabalipuram, a coastal town and ancient port town about 1.5 hours outside of Chennai on the Bay of Bengal. The town is known for its temples, caves and carvings in rock, dating back to the 7th century. The carvings illustrate events from the Mahabarata, one of two ancient Sanskrit epics from ancient India. Several of the temples/monuments in the pictures I took were actually carved from single rocks, an impressive feat given their size and detail. In invested in a goofy-looking hat to combat the heat and had a great time exploring the monuments, which were spread out among small stalls selling fruits, ice cream, art, and jewelry. It was nice to see people from a variety of different cultures and regions visiting the monuments, and us as Americans making up a very small proportion of the tourists. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves- this is an amazing place.

Today our group ventured to the business centre for the India Knowledge Park (IKP) business center on the other side of Chennai- it took us nearly an hour to get there, helping me to better understand just how vast the city is- to begin our training and orientation for the course. The building was modern and tastefully decorated, and the best part was a fantastic view of the city from the 10th floor. We gathered to celebrate one of our instructor's (Ravi's) birthday with chocolate cake and singing.

Zeena Johar from IKP introduced some basic information about ICTPH (IKP Centre for Technology in Public Health) which I found really interesting. The program assists with the functioning of rural health clinics in 3 villages which we will be visiting once we get settled in Thanjavur, and they use gps-enabled mobile phones to identify where people are in need of medical services in order to decide where to develop new clinics. Accessibility to adequate healthcare in rural areas is challenging, despite many peoples' ability to pay for services- there just aren't enough doctors or facilities to accommodate everyone. ICTPH helps with this by doing research and providing information to SughaVazhvu Healthcare, the program which runs the clinics.

After our training and yet another delicious lunch of masala dosas, we visited Cottage Industries- a store with a plethora of handmade goods, ranging from figurines of deities to textiles to marble tile art. It was exciting to see some of the various forms of artwork that characterize the region.

The only downside to the day was discovering that the water we've been drinking at our guesthouse, which came in large bottles and was thus assumed to be clean bottled water, was really from the hose outside. Normally this would not be a huge concern, but the water quality here is questionable, and we're all a little weary of getting sick. Hoping for the best over the next few days.

Tomorrow is a free day- we're planning a trip in the morning to Mahabalipuram, a city on the coast with many temples and buildings with unique rock-cut architecture. In the evening we'll leave for Thanjavur by sleeper train, I'm excited for the adventures ahead!

Some of our facilitators and views of Chennai from the IKP Business Office

Our class :)

Ravi (our instructor)'s birthday cake

So my friends and I succesfully arrived in Chennai around midnight last night, exhausted but excited to finally make it. We taxied to our guesthouse which is nothing fancy, but amazingly has a shower. Mostly I was happy to finally have a bed to rest in!

I awoke to loud noises from either birds or monkeys (I was hoping for the former given my previous scary interactions with the latter). Our group ate at a nice restaurant where dosas are the specialty- thin, crispy rice paper wrapped around curry and served with various chutneys. I was in heaven. Fresh chai tea rounded out the meal and we were ready to hit the town.

We took a rickshaw to another part of town in search of local clothing and discovered a huge market in T. Nagar- bustling streets, hundreds of tiny and large shops for everything you could possibly need or want, and a beautiful temple. We ventured into a shop with thousands of sari fabrics and a decent variety of other women's clothing- I was excited to buy a few nice outfits for my stay here.

I was overwhelmed by the sheer numbers of people, animals, smells, sights and sounds. This was how I had pictured India, but it is so different to see it up close. Horns are honking constantly, motor bikes and rickshaws zooming past bicyclists and the occasional bull-drawn cart. Smells of fried and spicy foods intermingle with sewage and garbage. The heat and humidity are overwhelming, but a slight breeze kept me sane.

I'm looking forward to seeing what the rest of my time here has to offer, and to start our orientation tomorrow- we'll get a better feel for the coursework we'll be embarking on upon our arrival in Thanjavur in a few days.

Litchi fruit; coffee stand; coffee on the coals; Jonathan with Banana tree leaf attire; house in Jambiani with woven fence; Jambiani beach; fishermen; the dala dala that transported us to Jambiani; Jonathan and I looking shiny from the heat on our spice tour; fried fish at the market; an old wall in Stone Town; our henna tattoos; showing kids pictures at the pottery shop; break of sunlight on our flight out of Zanzibar; fresh whole nutmeg; spice market; sail/fishing boat; delicious fresh fruit and homemade jams for breakfast; men's hats; Jambiani beach; entrance to our hotel in Jambiani.

To celebrate the completion of my Peace Corps service, I embarked on an excursion to Zanzibar, Tanzania. My friend Jonathan joined me and we had an amazing trip!

We started off with a 7 hour busride to Johannesburg, South Africa, and a night spent with one of his friends there. It was nice to have someone local show us around Melville, a very nice and hip area of the city. We had a lovely place to stay and good food and company to start of the week's festivities. We flew from JoBurg to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania- a bustling city so full of life and excitement, especially compared to relatively quiet and modern Gaborone. We arrived at night and spent the night in a beachside hut a ferry ride across from the city center. Although it was nighttime, the effect of being near the ocean was no less magnificent or exciting, after being landlocked for so long. I awoke early and eagerly ventured out to see the Indian Ocean, so beautiful with the dramatic morning clouds and rays of sun breaking through. I ordered a fruit salad and was so impressed to get fresh passionfruit, oranges, bananas, and mango. The day was off to a good start. We took a ferry back to the city center and admired the colorful fishing boats adorning the shoreline. We waded through the chaos at the ferry harbor for the journey to Zanzibar, and eventually managed to get tickets without too much struggle. A few hours wait and we were on our 2 hour ferry to the island- so comfortable and even a movie showing! Pretty luxurious as far as ferries go. We arrived at Zanzibar and entered the flood of taxi drivers, tour guides, and merchants awaiting the influx of tourists. A friendly resident from the ferry helped us navigate to the main transport area where we found the dala dala (small covered truck with open sides and back) to take us across the island to Jambiani. We waited for about an hour for the vehicle to fill up, meanwhile watching the busy market surrounding us- dozens of small shops and stalls bursting with colorful fabrics, cheap Asian imports, home and car supplies, and the occasional walking salesman with baskets of peanuts, cashews, or fruit. It was fascinating to see so many people, the women adorned in traditional Muslim gowns and veils, and men wearing the small Muslim hats with intricate patterns. The vehicle was packed to the brim with people, but it was so fascinating just to be in a different place with so much going on around us that we hardly noticed any discomfort. We wound throughout the town making many stops to pick up more people with cement, wooden boards, baskets of fruits, huge bags of groceries. We eventually made it out of the city and into the surrounding lush grassy and palm-treed landscape. We passed through Jozani Forest, an amazing jungle known for housing large populations of red colobus monkeys (we did see one bouncing across a tree branch). Our journey took us 2 hours, but it could have taken all day and we would have been content just to watch the people and the incredible scenery. We passed through a tiny village called Paje and then turned onto a rough dirt and rock road that led us into the quaint village of Jambiani. We were dropped right in the heart of the village, next to a sign for Blue Oyster Hotel where we would be staying for the next 3 nights. As the dala dala pulled away to leave, Jonathan and I just looked at each other and nearly screamed with excitement and awe- what an incredible and interesting place! All the buildings surrounding us were constructed of coral/rock and surrounded by intricate hand-woven straw fences. Huge palm trees dotted the landscape, and we could just catch a sliver of pristine blue ocean in the distance. The hotel was beautiful, right on the white sand beach, with an upstairs restaurant overlooking the ocean. The food was cheap and delicious- a variety of fresh (and I mean caught that day) seafood, spiced rices, curries, and other Indian-influenced dishes (very common in Zanzibar). I enjoyed a pina colada at sunset and tried to convince myself that this beautiful place and all that we'd seen that day wasn't just a dream.Our first full day in Jambiani was stormy- a thick, relentless rain beat down for the majority of the day, but I refused to let it keep me inside. I walked along the beach getting soaked, and encountered some very nice local guys training for football. It was interesting to talk to them about life in Jambiani and their ideas about Botswana- I even taught them a little Setswana while they taught me Swahili. In the late afternoon the rain stopped and we were able to sit peacefully outside just listening to the waves. The water was incredibly warm and swimmable even on a cloudy day. The pristine white sand against the clear blue of the water gave the whole scene a surreal and magical quality.The next few days were spent relaxing, alternating between laying out reading in the sun, going for long swims in the perfect water, and walking along the beach. We walked into the village one day and visited a pottery shop run by local women- it was a very cute place, and a group of kids arrived to stare at us crazy foreigners, gregariously introducing themselves and asking for us to take pictures with them, and we did. They were so enthusiastic and friendly. Jonathan and I both got henna tattoos done by local women on the beach- I got elaborate floral designs on both my hands and Jonathan got a band around his bicep. We ate well, slept well, and had an amazing, relaxing time.We took a dala dala back to Stone Town and wound our way through the bustling city to our hotel, right in the heart of a busy neighborhood. It was a great place, surrounded by so much energy and activity. Our room was cozy and even had air conditioning, a blessing in the humid heat of the day. There was a rooftop restaurant with coffee, homemade breads, and a variety of fresh fruit for breakfast everyday- blissful. We wandered through Stone Town's narrow alleys, between huge stone buildings with intricately latticed wooden decks. There were surprises around every corner, street vendors lined up on all sides, bicycles and scooters whizzing past us in the beautiful maze that is Stone Town. There was huge vegetable and spice market, next to a food market boasting fresh breads and chapatis, fried street food (fresh chips/fries, samosas), spiced meat kebabs, and an assortment of fried and dried fish. The food was amazing and incredibly cheap, everything so flavorful from the abundance of spices available (a huge change from Setswana cuisine, which tends to be bland). We bought an assortment of spices- whole nutmeg, cloves, saffron, vanilla beans... all for less than a dollar. In the evening we ran into an Israeli man who we'd met in Jambiani, and he joined us for an excursion to another side of town near the coast for Chinese food. Stone Town has all sorts of restaurants, and it was tough to choose where to eat, but the Pagoda Restaurant was an excellent pick, with delicious dishes for amazing prices. We wandered through the city after dinner, and I was surprised at how safe it was to be able to walk after dark (definitely not the case most of the time in Botswana). There were tons of people out and about, kids playing in the streets, and families sitting out on the stoops watching the passersby. Our friend took us to a corner near our hotel where a man was serving hot coffee from huge kettles boiled over coals. The coffee was strong and primarily a custom for only men to drink, but they didn't seem to mind me joining the crowd. We perched ourselves on the sidewalk nearby and enjoyed our cheap and delicious coffee while watching the excitement of nightlife around us. A perfect end to a perfect day.The following day we embarked on a spice tour, taking a vehicle into a jungle on the outskirts of town, where a guide showed us the varying types of fruits and spices found on the island. Some small boys followed our group around, making items out of banana leaves for us- they gave us little cones to hold our spices in, bracelets and rings, a necklace that resembled a frog, and Jonathan even got a woven tie! It was very entertaining. We saw plants such as nutmeg, vanilla beans, cloves, and peppercorns, and trees such as cinnamon, banana, litchi, durian fruit, papaya, and starfruit. We tasted the various types of fruit, including durian fruit which is rather repulsive- it has the smell of onions and garlic, the texture of avocado, and the flavor of onions and garlic mixed with sugar- a very odd and not enticing combination. But the other fruits we tried were amazing- several types of citrus, juicy and tart starfruit, and fresh litchis. After the tour we were escorted to a peaceful covered area where we sat on colorful mats and ate the traditional cuisine- spiced rice, fragrant vegetable curry, cooked spinach, and chapatis. I could have eaten for days, everything was so delicious.The rest of our time in Stone Town was spent in similar fashion- wandering the streets, visiting the different shops and alternating between street food and cheap restaurants, and just observing the life around us. We were sad to leave, but this time took a flight which gave us an amazing view of the island and the surrounding coral reefs. The sun was breaking through the clouds in such a way that a surreal glow spread across a small section of ocean, creating a magical effect to end our amazing trip.Our final night was spent in Dar es Salaam, at a dingy hotel that we were thankful to find (everywhere else was fully booked). We were right amidst a busy market, and in the evening we ventured to a small outdoor bar for some dinner. Only one person at the bar spoke any English, so communication was difficult but amusing nonetheless. A completely inebriated woman sat nearby and entertained us with her bursts of inspiration to dance, meanwhile knocking over her chair and nearly falling over herself. We returned to our stuffy room which housed a toilet that was merely a hole in the floor, no shower or bath, just a small water spout next to the toilet. It was interesting to say the least, and we were thankful to be there for only a short time. In the morning we flew to South Africa and said goodbye to our amazing adventures, still in awe of all that we'd seen and experienced. And now I'm in LA, a world away, trying to adapt back to my strange culture. My adventures in Botswana and Africa are over for now, but hopefully to be continued in the not too distant future.

For pictures from the Zanzibar trip, visit http://picasaweb.google.com/JonathanBoland/Zanzibar?authkey=Gv1sRgCILQ7q2byuLItQE&feat=email#

Last week I hosted the new Peace Corps volunteers for Mochudi- Megan and Jonathan- who will be helping at Stepping Stones International and Molefi Senior Secondary school. It was great to have the opportunity to meet them, especially Megan since she'll be taking my place! It was fun having company and helped me to cope with the stress that I've had lately at the thought of leaving and all that entails. It has been very difficult to adjust to the idea of leaving, especially leaving behind all the wonderful and kind people I've met here. The kids that I've worked with for the past 2 years have become my family, and it breaks my heart to not know if or when I'll see them again. My boss and her family, who have taken me into their home so often, will be hard to part with as well. The random friends who I've met at the post office, the hardware store, and other places on my aimless weekend walks through town have helped to make my experiences here special and always interesting.

The kids at Stepping Stones surprised me with a going away party, complete with dancing, singing, and a plethora of handmade cards and pictures. I couldn't help but break down when giving them my final speech of best wishes- the whole day was extremely touching and made me feel very loved.

I visited my host family from training, who I hadn't seen in over a year, and it was wonderful to reconnect with the people who helped me so much in the beginning- in those shaky times when I wasn't sure if I'd make it through training. It was nice to show them pictures of the different activities that I'd done with the kids, and to let them know how they helped make my time in Botswana fruitful.

On Saturday I will leave Botswana for the last time, embarking on the next adventure- I would like to say I'm excited to go to Zanzibar, but there is still so much to do between now and then! For now I'll just appreciate the last few days in this place that has helped me grow and change, that has shown me so much beauty and love, despite being a world away from home.

This week we had a visit from 16 volunteers from the British High Commission in Gaborone, and what a fun and busy day we had! The day started off with one group of volunteers and Stepping Stones Staff planting a variety of donated trees and shrubs around the grounds at the centre, while another helped lay bricks for a shelter for the security guard (an essential since the weather is starting to get particularly chilly). After the tough manual labor, staff were trained in basic first aid procedures and some computer skills. Once the kids arrived in the afternoon, the volunteers put them to work cooking a variety of different foods- cottage pie (ground beef covered in mashed potatoes and cheese), butternut squash soup, and cupcakes. Meanwhile other kids competed against each other in a quiz show. I found it really cute that one of the teams chose "Leslie" as their team name, while everyone else chose names like the Cheetahs or Elephants. All this excitement was followed by a group dance party, very entertaining to see everyone show off their moves (I've taken note and will try to be more adventurous next time I get a chance to dance). At the end of the day the High Commission donated t-shirts to all kids and staff and thanks were given all around. A busy and exciting day!I'm gearing up to leave, just 2 weeks left in Botswana! I'm in a bit of denial about it, knowing how hard it will be to leave the kids and the many friends I've made her behind. Every day is filled with work and social tasks, making the time fly by faster than I want it to. Still, I'm looking forward to my next adventure, my travels in Tanzania and then back to the states!

This article is from Botswana Daily News... The results of the latest HIV/AIDS Prevalence study don't look good. Let's hope that with the increase of Peace Corps Volunteers coming into Botswana there will be some positive changes on the horizon.

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Survey indicates prevalence rate increase By Tshegofatso Sentsho GABORONE - The 2008 HIV/AIDS impact survey shows that the national prevalence rate has increased by 0.5 per cent.

The prevalence rate increased to 17.6 per cent from 17.1 per cent in 2004.

The preliminary results also indicate an overall increase in HIV prevalence for both males and females from 2004 BAIS.

Speaking at the release of the report in Gaborone yesterday, the chief demographer at the Central Statistics Office, Dr Peter-Ubomba-Jaswa said urban villages are the least infected while towns remain the most infected.

The survey also showed that the HIV/AIDS incidence rate was at 2.9 per cent, with males and females accounting for 2.3 and 3.5 per cent respectively. The incidence rate measures the degree of new HIV transmission.

On age groups, Dr Ubomba-Jaswa said HIV prevalence rate ranged from 2.2 per cent in babies up to 4 years old to 40.6 per cent in the 40 to 44 year age group. He added that prevalence rate increases sharply with age peaking at those between 30 to 45 years and gradually declining with age.

Comparing with the 2004 impact survey, Dr Ubomba-Jaswa said the peak was seen in the 25 to 39 age groups, but has since shifted to the 30 to 45 year age group. He added that this is the age group with the highest rate of new HIV infections. He noted that the 45 to 49 year age group has the highest HIV incidence rate of 7.3 per cent while the 15 to 19 age group has the lowest incidence rate of 0.7 per cent.

Dr Ubomba-Jaswa added that the estimated 17.9 per cent HIV prevalence rate in urban areas is slightly higher than the rural areas at 17.1 per cent. He, however, said when towns are singled out they have a much higher HIV prevalence rate (22.1) per cent than other urban areas. The two cities are estimated at 19.1 per cent while urban villages are at 16.6 per cent.

Dr Ubomba-Jaswa said HIV prevalence rate also deferred according to districts with Kweneng West recording the lowest rate at 10.3 per cent while Selebi-Phikwe recorded the highest as 26.5 per cent. He added that in some districts, the HIV incidence rate appears not to be consistent with the prevalence rate. He cited Kweneng West as having a low HIV prevalence rate but a relatively high HIV incidence rate of 3.5 per cent.

Dr Ubomba-Jaswa said Selebi-Phikwe continues to have one of the highest HIV prevalence and incidence rates in the country while the Chobe District has a high HIV prevalence rate but a low incidence rate. He said Mahalapye has the lowest HIV incidence rate of 0.9 per cent while Bobonong has the highest rate at 5.6 per cent.

On educational levels, Dr Ubomba-Jaswa said the preliminary results show that the prevalence rate decreases steadily as education level increases.

He said those with no education or non formal education have the highest HIV prevalence rates of 28.4 per cent and 28.6 per cent respectively whilst those with tertiary education have a low prevalence rate of 16.3 per cent.

He also said the HIV prevalence rate is highest among those who are widowed (39.6 per cent) and lowest in those who have never married (16.1 per cent). He added that the HIV incidence rates are highest among the widowed (4.7 per cent) and lowest among those who never married (3.2 per cent).

On prevention, he said 56 per cent of the country's population aged between 10 and 64 years has tested themselves for HIV/AIDS at least once. He added that in the 12 months preceding the survey, 34 per cent of the general population had tested for HIV/AIDS and were informed of the results.

On knowledge and behaviour, Dr Ubomba-Jaswa said among the 15-24 year age group, 43 per cent correctly identified ways of preventing HIV transmission.

He said with respect to attitude towards people living with HIV/AIDS, 65 per cent said they would share a meal with a person living with HIV/AIDS, care for a family member suffering from AIDS, and would allow a HIV positive teacher to teach their children. He added that they said they would also buy vegetables from a HIV positive shopkeeper.

Dr Ubomba-Jaswa further said the impact survey shows that 16 per cent of males in the age group 30-49 is circumcised.

Contributing to the deliberations, the National AIDS Coordinating Agency (NACA) coordinator, Mr Batho Molomo, said his agency will launch the impact survey statistical report next month.

He said following the launch, they will convene a workshop in July to prepare for a policy report. He added that his organisation intends to work with four districts to conduct lower level district focused analysis to promote the utilisation of the report for informing decision making at that level.

The main objective of the 2008 impact survey, was to provide up to date information on the HIV/AIDS pandemic in Botswana with respect to its prevalence, incidence as well as behavioural patterns and knowledge, care and support, attitude toward people living with HIV/AIDS as well as socio-economic, demographic, household and living conditions associated with the disease.

He said in the 2008 survey, unlike the previous ones, blood samples were collected from willing respondents for the determination of HIV/AIDS prevalence and incidence.

Once again, I embarked on a camping adventure with the kids from my program, and some others from the community. We got to travel all the way to Maun, a large town in the northern part of Botswana, a whopping 10 hour busride away. The kids were thrilled to be able to see some very different scenery than that in the southern part of Botswana, including part of Moremi Game Reserve where we encountered hippos, elephants, giraffes, zebras, and many other exotic animals. Unfortunately I got heat stroke on the game drive and ended up throwing up... gross. But other than that I was happy to see Maun, since it will probably be my last time to see the amazing wildlife of Botswana before I return to the US. Just one more month before I finish Peace Corps, very strange to think about! Exciting and scary at the same time.

These are just a small sample of the 31 groups who performed at the talent show... congratulations to everyone, there was an abundance of talent represented!

Things are in a constant state of transition lately, despite all of the things I've grown used to- the slow pace of things (except for my life, which seems to run at a fast pace most of the time), the unwanted attention I still get after 2 years of living in the same place (thanks to living in a village of over 40,000 people), the entertaining observations of livestock and farm animals roaming the streets... I've grown used to so much, but the people around me are changing constantly. Stepping Stones International has a lot of interest from volunteers- from the US, Canada, and other foreign countries- and I've met a lot of new people lately. This month I said goodbye to Meg, a Canadian volunteer I've worked with and befriended over the last 3 months, and I'm looking forward to meeting the new Canadian volunteer arriving in May. A group of about 20 high school kids from California arrived last week to help tutor our kids in different subjects- I was a little taken aback to see so many young white people at once! Not something I see regularly.

I'm looking forward to the next few months of helping organize and facilitate at a camp with orphans and other vulnerable children from my village, developing a drama group, and trying to put together a hip hop competition for youth to express themselves creatively. It will be a lot of work, but I want to do as much as I can before I leave.

Recently the kids from Stepping Stones had a talent show that I helped organize, it was a blast! There were 31 groups performing dances, songs, and drama, and all showed great enthusiasm. I was really impressed by the dance groups, who reminded me just how untalented I am in that department, and how much I want to learn from them. The talent show helped the kids to raise money for Stepping Stones International and to learn about financial management. It's part of a greater Income Generating Projects activity we're teaching the kids about to improve their skills for when they finish school, as there are often limited job opportunities in Botswana.

Despite all the work and fun I'm having here, I'm also looking forward to June, when I'll finish Peace Corps and take a trip to Zanzibar to celebrate the completion of a very productive and challenging 27 months in Botswana. It will be great to be home with friends and family this summer! I will do my best to make the most of the next few months, and embrace the excitement and challenges that lie ahead.

Botswana Baylor Teen Club has just created a blog to document different events and achievements at Teen Clubs held throughout Botswana, including the one I help run in Mochudi. Please take a look, and donate if you get a chance- this is a fabulous programme that has helped hundreds of HIV positive teens throughout Botswana. Thanks for your support!

botswanateenclub.wordpress.com

Every month I help run the Teen Club that is sponsored through Baylor Clinic- a fantastic pediatric AIDS program based in Gaborone. This last weekend I got to accompany the Mochudi Teen Club on a field trip to go swimming. Most kids rarely get a reprieve from the brutal Botswana summer heat, so this was quite a treat- for myself as well! Most of the kids knew how to at least float, but few knew how to swim. It was a great experience trying to teach kids to swim and how to let go and feel free in the water- definitely not an easy task, but a good time nonetheless.

Fun on game day, staff and volunteers, and the kids with our new vehicle.

Knowing that I have just a few short monhs left in Botswana, I've been doing a lot of reflecting on my experiences here and realizing just how much of an impact working with the kids in my program has had on my life. Before coming to Botswana I'd had very little experience working with youth, especially adolescents, and when taking into consideration the differences in cultural backgrounds between the kids and myself, I was intimidated by them and the idea of trying to do anything to help them lead better lives. The first time I met the original 30 kids involved with Stepping Stones, they were completely shy and reserved, making me all the more uncertain about what to say to them and how to act around them. But as time passed and I participated in activities with the kids, they began to open up. Even getting them to answer any questions or participate in activities in the beginning was a huge challenge, but slowly the kids became more bold, especially after I allowed them many opportunities to laugh at me. I used to go on trips to go horseback riding with them- always entertaining with hip hop and house music blasting through the combi as the kids danced and chatted away- and one day I just started trying to mimic their dance moves. There was an uproar of laughter which made my day. Ever since I started making a fool of myself the kids have realized that I'm not that much different than they are- I'm not sure I'll ever forget how to be a kid- and they're more comfortable letting me in to their infinitely complex and interesting lives.

I'm amazed at all the unique personalities in our program (and I've changed the names for confidentiality purposes)- there's Odirile, the class clown who happens to be utterly brilliant and loves inventing secret handshakes; there's Tumelo, the hyperactive boy who likes to pick fights with the others but loves reading Sesame Street books; there's Rapebana, the drama queen who loves to preach the word of Jesus; "Small Boy" as the kids call him, who is brilliant and meticulous in arts and crafts; and who could forget Fortune, one of my favorite guys, who has a funny habit of smiling and then trying to hide it and always is the first to say hi when I arrive. I'm continuously impressed at how many new things these kids are willing to try- for example, we just started a sewing program which I assumed would only be popular among the girls, but when we asked for volunteers almost all the boys seemed interested. Almost all the kids have learned horseback riding, jewelry making, many different types of art, and journal writing. They're eager to learn English, and so excited when I break out a book and read to them (I recently started Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, which I'm just as excited about).

Needless to say, long after I've returned to the states, I will remember all the names (which took me sooo long to learn) and faces of the now 60 kids I've worked with- it will break my heart to leave, but it will be great to keep in touch with them and see where their lives lead.

Returning from vacation was a bit of a shocker- readjusting to life in Mochudi, being alone as opposed to constantly around others, and getting back to work. Several problems arose with the kids from my program over the holidays- a few girls found out they were pregnant and another was abused- it was difficult to see the pain that they were going through and feel almost completely helpless. My coworkers and I have been doing what we can to help ease the strain, but there's only so much that can be done.

On a lighter note, it has been really nice to be back with the kids and starting the new year out with some great activities and new inspiration. Two new volunteers from Canada arrived recently- one was here for 3 weeks, and another will be here until April. Their energy and activity ideas have been really helpful and inspirational. We had a sports week with the kids, teaching them Jujitsu techniques and even floor hockey (thanks to the generous contribution of hockey supplies from the Canadian guy). We've also been getting extra help the kids during study time, since many are entering their final years of school (Form 5) in which they'll be required to take a final comprehensive exam that will determine whether they'll be able to attend tertiary school. It's a really intense process and very stressful, but we'll try to help them all to pass. I'm relearning some of my math and grammar skills in the process :)

At the beginning of March I'll be attending my COS- Close of Service- meetings for Peace Corps. My whole group of 50-something volunteers will meet to make final plans for leaving Botswana- it's so hard to believe my time here is almost over! I grow ever more excited thinking about the future, but it's also terrifying to think about how different my life in US will seem after this experience. Being here has changed me in so many ways, I hope that the culture shock going back will not be too overwhelming. And of course figuring out what to do next... always a daunting task. For now I will do my best to soak up as many great moments and experiences in Botswana, with the many friends I've made and the kids who have inspired and challenged me since my arrival.

Some sunsets, part of Victoria Falls, view from the plane, a lovely turtle, and elephants at the river

Here are some highlights from my recent travels- I was lucky enough to see some amazing places over my Christmas break, returning to Cape Town and getting to see the legendary Victoria Falls and Kasane, one of the most beautiful areas in Botswana. Pictures will be posted soon!

Highlights of Cape Town: I could hardly contain my excitement arriving in Cape Town- I had already witnessed what a beautiful place it was, but the second time around was still breathtaking. Table Mountain looks completely surreal as the backdrop of a sprawling city and amazing beaches. I was surprised at how dry the areas below the mountain appeared this time around, especially since it’s the rainy season in Botswana, but the higher parts of the mountain were still a lovely green mixed with the rocky cliffs. Chandni and I met up with her cousin Jackie and her husband Jay and we drove together to the same backpacking place I’d stayed before. We went out for really nice appetizers and champagne at Wakame, a fancy restaurant/bar overlooking the ocean. Afterwards we walked along the pier to watch the sunset- amazing! We all awoke early to drive to the house in Camps Bay, one of the more upscale beachfront areas of Cape Town. The house was unbelievable: 8 bedrooms and bathrooms dispersed over 3 floors with huge windows looking out at the ocean and the 12 apostles (on the backside of Table Mountain)- the view was unbeatable. All the rooms were incredible, and the top floor had a huge deck and hot tub. We were too excited to leave the house for most of the first day. Over the next several days we met with more of Chandni’s family and I started taking morning walks along the beach- I couldn’t resist the chance to walk in perfect weather with such breathtaking scenery! Chandni’s teenage cousin came along for some of the walks and we discovered a whole crew of rock dassies- creepy and strange groundhog-like creatures that lived in the cliffs along the beach. All of us spent time at the beach, drove down to Boulders Beach one day to see a huge gathering of African penguins, went to the top of Table Mountain by cable car and hiked around (you can see all of Cape Town and the surrounding bay areas and mountain ranges- it’s a little dizzying but unbeatable as far as views go)- there was no shortage of fun. We spent one day driving around Stellenbosch, one of the luscious wine-growing regions outside of the city. We visited Spier vineyard, where we indulged in an incredible gourmet African buffet with countless delectables to choose from. The food in Cape Town deserves mention - I didn’t have one meal that wasn’t amazing. All in all it was an incredible trip, and so much fun to get to be there with friends and Chandni’s family. Livingstone/Victoria Falls/Kasane/Chobe National Park: It was so exciting to finally get to Livingstone in Zambia, home to part of Victoria Falls- a magnificent waterfall that spans part of the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. As we hiked along the huge gorge to the waterfall we were overwhelmed by the sheer volume of water in the spray from the falls- within minutes we were completely drenched! We rented raincoats for the rest of the walk which at least served to protect our cameras a bit. The waterfall is really a series of smaller falls cascading over a deep ravine that stretches as far as one can see- the gorge wraps around a corner when meeting the Zimbabwean border. At one point a bridge crosses another ravine, giving you a view of where the water continues into yet another parallel gorge. Rainbows could be seen on both sides of the bridge due to the spray- it was a beautiful sight. After visiting the falls we shopped at an open-air market run by local vendors and artisans nearby. It was a little overwhelming to be confronted with the intense persuasion and sales pitches of each vendor, and bargaining with them was exhausting, but we all managed to find a few beautiful pieces of jewelry and art to take home. We had an interesting encounter at the Zambezi Sun, a large resort not far from the falls where we attempted to have lunch. We had ordered a pizza to share and had started eating it when the umbrella over our table started to tilt- I grabbed onto in time to keep it from falling on us, only to realize the cause of the trouble- a monkey had jumped from the roof of the restaurant onto the umbrella, then onto our table to grab a piece of pizza. One of us swatted it away, but it boldly returned to the table and in the bustle knocked over a drink, gin and tonic and broken glass flying everywhere. What a mess! It was pretty ridiculous. I had always though monkeys were cute, but changed my mind after that incident. After visiting Livingstone I returned to Kasane, the nearest town in Botswana, which is accessed by ferry across the Chobe River. Kasane borders the Chobe National Park, a huge expanse of luscious green hills and valleys surrounding the river. I went on a game drive through the park where I got to see wild dogs attacking a baby impala, hundreds of baboons, hippos, crocodiles, and countless species of birds and antelope. In the evening I went on a river cruise to see elephants and many other animals, as well as the Caprivi Strip, part of Namibia that borders much of northern Botswana. The long green grasses and setting sun were stunning to see, especially reflected in the river.

I was lucky enough to have some of my good friends from Oregon, Geoffrey and Liisa, visit me last week. They arrived from India exhausted and ready for some down time- something I was looking forward to as well. We spent the week exploring Mochudi, going grocery shopping (they hadn't seen a real grocery store in months), hiking in the hills and visiting Gaborone. It was surreal to have friends from home here, but so nice to be reminded of my former life.

Unfortunately just before they arrived, I started feeling ill- I had dizzy spells, a neck and headache, and felt weak. I couldn't figure out what was going on, but I had a bug bite on my leg that had formerly been just a bump, and was suddenly swelling, turning red, and scabbing over. I had it checked out, and sure enough, something poisonous had bitten me while I'd been hiking. Even after taking medication it proceeded to turn purple and swell more. I'm hoping that by the end of this week it will be completely better. It definitely woke me up to the fact that I'm not in Oregon anymore- poison ivy and nettle stings have been replaced by spiders the size of my hands and poisonous flies. I'm just thankful to have avoided any more serious illness so far!

Enjoy some pictures of Mochudi from the hills and a cool random shot of Geoffrey- he was waving his arms in the air and the camera just happened to take the shot at a very artsy moment.

Stepping Stones International finally has a website! Check us out at www.steppingstonesintl.org to get a better idea of where I work and what we do.

Hi everyone, just wanted to let you know that my sponsored hike for Y-Care Botswana is coming up in just 2 months- I'm doing everything I can to prepare for it, working out every day and doing my best mentally prepare myself for 3 days of intense hiking. Thanks to everyone who has donated so far- I have raised about $600! My final goal is $1000, so I still need as much help as I can get, so if anyone else is willing to contribute please email me at leslie.duling@gmail.com for more info. It's for a very good cause- Y Care gives to charitable non-governmental organizations all throughout Botswana, supporting youth and cultural activities (they gave a bunch of money to Stepping Stones International, the organization I volunteer for, which works with orphans and vulnerable children). So please help me give back! Thanks for your support.

So you all realize I'm a slacker when it comes to updating my blog, so I thought I'd finally post some pictures, random as they are, from the past few months.

From top left: Silly pictures from Peace Corps prom (a fun excuse made up by friends and I to get together and get dressed up for once); Crazy clouds near my house; A corn beetle on my door (huge beetles that seem to be everywhere now), two kids from my program horseback riding; the early morning sunrise from my front porch.

In the last few weeks I've been noticing some dramatic changes among the kids at Stepping Stones. When I first started my position there, hardly any of the 30 kids would speak to me, even when asked a question. And it's understandable when they have all been traumatized in one way or another- most of their parents have died from AIDS and even a few have been murdered. Since I'm working with adolescents (arguable one of the hardest times in a person's life anyway), I knew they were already facing a lot- it's hard to imagine losing one of both parents on top of adjusting to becoming an adult. Many of them, despite being under 18, were caring for their younger siblings; some were being abused at home; many were living in extreme poverty, sharing a one-room house with 11 other people; a few are HIV positive themselves... So I'm very pleased to see that the majority of the kids are really opening up and becoming more confident. Just in the last week I've had several kids ask me for help with their homework or college applications; some just come up to me to tell me about their day or ask about family problems they're having- I'm really starting to see that my stay here is meaningful, and feeling inspired to do everything I can to keep these kids from letting their lives go to waste. It is really challenging, but so rewarding to see them excited about school, being more confident and assertive, and interacting better with others. There are still a lot of needs to be addressed, but at least there has been some improvement.

Just a few pictures from one of the many storms that came through Mochudi in the last few weeks

For Valentine's day we decided to have a bit of a party with the kids at my program. I ended up baking about 150 heart-shaped sugar cookies, with the help of a few of the older kids in our program, and each kid got to decorate (and eat) a bunch. These kids aren't used to having many sweet things, let alone a treat of any sort, so the sugar was quite a shock. I've never seen these kids with so much energy and hyperactivity, it was pretty amusing.

My own Valentine's day was a nice treat. My boyfriend Jason came up to visit and we had, over the last few months, collected all the ingredients to make sushi. We had discovered an Asian food store in Gaborone where we were able to get the seaweed wraps and wasabi; my mom was gracious enough to send some vacuum-packed smoked salmon, and after a lot of searching I managed to find pickled ginger and cream cheese. Sushi is one of the foods I've missed the most since living in a land-locked country, so this was a very exciting occasion. Amazingly it was pretty tasty despite my extremely minimal experience with making sushi. It's surprising how exciting food becomes when your options are limited.

This weekend some other volunteers and I are celebrating "Peace Corps Prom". We definitely have to be creative with ways to have fun, so we're all getting dressed up (as much as is possible with the limited wardrobe and funds that we all have) and having a dance. It should be pretty entertaining, I'll be sure to post some photos after the event.

I've officially started training for my 3-day sponsored walk that's coming up in May. I've been walking a lot pretty much everyday and started running as well. Fortunately it has been relatively cool in the mornings and evenings so all this exercise isn't unbearable. I just want to say thanks to everyone who has helped me raise money so far, including the recent additions from aunt MJ, Brian, J and Tony, and Tim. I've raised about $600 so far, only $400 more to go! Please email me if you're interested in helping out, leslie.duling@gmail.com. Thanks!

I don't have a lot of time to write, but thought I would document some of the highlights of the last few weeks. Things have been going really well at work- we have several new people working with us which has made things run more smoothly at the centre. A member of the national rugby team is designing a sports program for the kids and comes to the centre once a week to get everyone in shape- the kids really enjoy it, and even my coworkers and I get involved. Some of the kids just started doing horseback riding- the older kids had done it before, but the younger kids had never gone. I got to go with them on their first trip and they had a fantastic time. None of the kids had ever ridden a horse before and they couldn't stop smiling. It was inspiring to see them so excited about something.

For those of you who don't know I'll be participating in a sponsored walk for Y Care Charitable Trust (check them out at www.ycare.org.bw)- the proceeds of which will go to non-governmental and community-based organizations throughout Botswana which do crucial work with, among other groups, disabled and disadvantaged youth. If you are interested in helping me reach my goal of raising $1000, please email me at leslie.duling@gmail.com. Donations of any amount would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks so much to those who have already offered to help out:

Mom and Dad, Betsy and James, Geoffrey and Liisa, Saret, and Brooke.

I'll be posting more pictures and stories soon!