I had a fun weekend. At first I was a bit hesitant to the idea of waking up early on a saturday, and was equally met with awe when I found out the funny smell in the car on our way to Gela, a village an hour away, was actually that of a live sheep in the trunk. What moved me was not the fact that the animal was all tied-up in the back, but that it will soon see its demise and be skewered whole on a pole later. But to quote Ms Palin, "We are men, we eat. Therefore we hunt" or something like that. Well in this case, we eat, therefore we slaughter. Point taken. Ok, a bit of background info. I had preciously agreed to join my bosses' family and his relatives in their summer house in Gela for the weekend for a "sabhor", which could be best translated as festival. It's a tradition for them to meet in Gela yearly for the festival. The oldest member of the entire extended family treats them to "chever-mey" or a whole grilled lamb. Although it might not have been your typical fun weekend for that 20-something year old, I came to appreciate their family tradition that they so gracioulsy shared with me, being haggled by one of the uncles (which I've become used to for it is almost always a gesture of being accepted as one of their own), then treated to the lamb, and then listening to most of the family kareoking Bulgarian folk songs particular of the region while the oldest grandpa played traditional bagpipe, and finally retreating to a comfy bed.

This morning I woke-up, had breakfast, and then headed to the festival. I've been to a good number of these festivals, especially last year, but there was something about this one that reminded me of a summer back home. Not so much the folk music, or the awesome bagpipe players on stage but perhaps all those tents out in the field, and all those beer in clear plastic cups and the hippie-looking cool boys and girls on a hot sunny day who danced and shouted and cheered.

It's only so long before the unfamiliar becomes habit, the new becomes routine and life in a strange place is suddenly not so alien anymore. But then every now and then you come across something new, something you haven't tasted yet and that uncharted feeling of the near past comes beckoning. Today was one of those days. As you may have read in previous postings that Bulgarians by large burn wood for heating. And so is not the exception in my village incidentally.

Summer is a busy time for many in the villages because winter is not so kind in the Balkan. There's work to be done. Just to mention a few - conserving fruits and vegetables (because they are scarce and expensive in winter) and subsequently canning them, harvesting potatoes and beans, bringing logs from the forest so they can be chopped down for firewood and many more but I'll spare you the rest. As interesting as all these are to me, it is sheer hard work - or if I may suggest, life at peace with its rightful authenticity. Over coffee everyone chats about current issues, now being hauling wood from up in the mountain. So I decided I would help Basri and his family, friends in the village, carry wood from the forest to his home. When I offered to help, they warned me that it is a real "teshka rabota", meaning heavy work. His wife duly added that only men can get this job done. Well, I didn't quite anticipate anything for the ride up in the mountain was the scariest and equally most hilarious that I can ever remember. I had to board on an all-steel body truck made in then east-Germany. So glorifying is its hide, that even the dashboard is constructed of steel. Practically a tank! As we took quick turns around corners on the bumpy, usually unpaved road up the mountain, the driver would often fly off his seat and nudge towards the window. But to my surprise he kept at his pace. Well, anyway the work began we reached the destination. Basically, Basri's sons, his father and a couple of men and I helped fill the truck with logs that were sometimes over 2 feet in diameter. And then when we reached Basri's house, we unloaded them. But I didn't sweat as much as those guys, perhaps because I committed to the lighter logs. In the end I got a little taste of preparing for the cold winter that grips everyone, every year. Now it would be prudent to wait for my regiment to arrive.

It's been a while since I posted anything, but I was caught up in cultural integration, festivals, family visit and work. Expect some glitzy new info and pictures soon....

Some of the early complaints I heard when I first arrived at my site were, "the kids are always playing computer games"; "they are becoming lazy and less active"; "do you know these teens are already smoking and drinking?!". "..they need to play more sports", remarked someone. During those early weeks I also received various requests from the kids as though I was mystery Santa doling out benjamins. One of then said, "Shah, can we have archery..?". To that I blankly replied, "sure, why not!". At that time I didn't want to spoil the child's mood, but knew that I needed more than just a wish to create a sustainable environment. As I started to learn and live and play in the community, it became more apparent that the children were in fact spending less time in any after-school activities, and simply turning to video games or something else. It was not because they lacked motivation, but that opportunities fell short before them. There aren't much after-school programs other than volleyball and futball at the school gym, the latter un-utilized during winter. This problem in itself provided an opportunity. I recalled what some of the kids had wished months earlier. And so naturally came the idea of using archery as a mean to promote physical activity and diversion from bad habits. The school and the community were excited by the idea, thought it would work among the children and were seemingly proud to start a "unique" sport for this part of Bulgaria. Well, as we know that money sometimes make the world go around as was particularly true here because we needed to buy equipments. So I wrote a project proposal for the last remaining USAID grants in BG. This morning, I learned that the archery project is approved. Now I can't wait to see the kids' faces when I break the news to them!

When His messengers conveyed God's words to mere mortals in the form of scripture, I believe they intended for His heavy invocation for whatever matter needed resolve. To which book one subscribes to or a total refusal of it, is another topic of discussion. The fact of the matter is that I've been wishing for heavy precipitation in my village since January, after hearing about the snow-storms and shut-downs back home. Some may find it an ill will. But you see, in the past couple of weeks the temperature buoyed somewhere in the upper 60s, bright sunny days to make even Droopy happy for once. As comfortable as that was, I wondered to myself, "what kind of a winter is this?! An effect of global-warming I suppose..." "Well, at least I can throw the Frisbee around....", I carried on about the days. But what I secretly prayed for was a bit of snowfall, heavy snowfall, perhaps. The effect of snow, albeit miserable in the villages when the streets turn in to a muddy slush, is also very charming. The entire landscape in Borino is a mystic white place. And one can never have too much fun in the snow! So I prayed (I actually didn't. Just wishful thinking). I complained about it to my villagers and friends. Some laughed, some snared and some even sympathised. Call it awesome mind power or just plain expected, snow finally came on Monday. And it's been snowing since then with a total accumulation exceeding 21 centimeters! 

There's something in Bulgaria for which I am thankful - cheap bread. Bread being the staple of every Bulgarian, a loaf may cost as low as .80 stotinki (60 cents) at the local grocery establishments. Baked daily, fresh bread is always bountiful. However, friends and foes are equally aware of my affinity for the whole-grain kind. Because variety-seeking is a luxury merely endeavored here in the staples section, to buy multi-grain over the regular white has a hefty cost - a whole Lev (BG currency). So here's the catch. Only one store in my village carries that bread. Last week, when I went to the store to re-fill my cabinet, I noticed it didn't have my bread. Instead, there sat a stack bagged in blue label. Naturally I asked about them to which the shop keep replied, "wheat". Consequently, I bought a loaf, something I had to suffice with for now. When I ran to the store to buy more bread next time, those blue bags were sitting over the counter again. This time I grew curious and asked the shopkeeper why she wasn't carrying any multi-grain bread in orange bags anymore. After brief exchange of whatnot, she speculated that it was due to the recent gas shut-off from Russia that caused the bakery to stop making multi-grain bread. So how had the Russian-Ukrainian gas conflict affected me you ask? Well, it wasn't the obvious. I don't have a gas furnace to heat my place; I use wood. I am glad the gas flow is resumed. Now hopefully my bread will come soon.

This post is not a status update, nor is it another episode of Bulgarian cultural tidbits. But rather it is a dedication, a toast to all you dear-lings back home. I love you and think about you on most days.

Happy New Year!!!

Drawing it on a calendar, I see that it was only less than two weeks ago when I cracked yet another chapter in world peace by dawning the Bird in my village (see my previous post). But before the fleeting thrill of one holiday could pass, another has come to claim it's glory. It's called Bairam. This is a religious one. And the muslims of Bulgaria are to claim its fame. So without haste, I too sailed the celebration-canoe. Bairam started Monday. But for me and most others in my region, the real anticipation started on Friday, embarking on a 4-day weekend! Since another volunteer was helping put together a concert at the cultural center in her village for the holiday, I decided to kick-off my joys from there. So Monday morning, after a brief exchange with a local grocer at site, a third volunteer and I headed for the SHOW. But as you will know, the mighty arm of friendship has a long reach. Alongside "narodni" (traditional) performances, the people of the community has ever so delightfully embraced America, in the form of FLO RIDA. Needless to say that we all enjoyed the show very much. The rest of the evening was uneventful. Bed.

Yesterday, the fun picked-up where it left off. I had lunch at the mayor's parent's house. After lunch there was tea at another house. Tea again at a hotel lobby. And for the fourth time and place, I deliberately ordered coffee. I figured, why cut short on this holiday myself. So I made banana bread yesterday morning. It proved to me a smooth operation later. When I went over to a friend's house for dinner later in the evening, they were buoyed by my gift. What makes a holiday right? Is the exorbitant gorging of treats? Is it receiving gift from someone just after first encounter? Or is it the feeling of belonging in one's holiday traditions? It's all of the above. The good thing is, I have two more days to go. But the great thing is that the fun-diggity doesn't have to end after that. It will start all over again in the next two weeks that won't stop until after the 1st!

But for now, I say "Bairaminuz Mubarek Olsun!"

Current favorite Bulgarian dish: Keufte - spiced meat wad cooked in oil.

Although I am late on delivering my greetings to the other side of the proverbial fence, I would simply like to recount yesterday's event. It did start like any other day. I woke up only to drag myself out of my warm, womb-like bed to the shivering cold reality of my room. I sucked it up because blood was flowing vigorously through my veins, the clock ticking. Today, I had to prepare the turkey thawing in a laundry-bucket in my bathroom in half-an-hour. The people from my work and friends in Borino had requested that I gather a merry feast in this celebratorious day. We have planned it over in the last week on how the operation would unfold. They would reserve a cafe for the private party. Friends and families would be invited. There will be Turkey. And my friend, a fellow volunteer from a near-by village, and I would sing the Star-spangled Banner. So shedding my bed skin, I put on a warm shirt and fetched to the bathroom. Aah, the technique seemingly worked. So I grabbed the 10-pound bird by it's weight and shallied over to the kitchen, dumped it on the counter and started ripping off the package in wonder and diluted excitement. 

As I powered through the prep, I realized my hand was progressively becoming numb. The turkey was slightly frozen in the inside. But I shrugged off the minor discomfort, keeping my goal in sight. The plan was to cook the turkey in the school's cafeteria kitchen. But that failed after the godhvatch, or cook suggested I wrap the entire pan in tinfoil since the oven cooks "strongly". Consequently Basri, a local friend who drove me to the school, brought me back home so I can try my soviet-style oven that won't close its door all the way shut. But whatever. I seemed destined to make a turkey no matter what. Later that day, my friend from the other village came. We did fun stuff, but mainly prepare for the evening. In the end, we had done a turkey, gravy from the turkey stock and mashed potatoes. Dream accomplished  

So how was Thanksgiving like for me this year? My co-workers really put it neatly - A french bird (because it was actually from France), Bulgarians in a Turkish village celebrated in a grand American way.

Allow me to not describe the hustle/ hassle that led me to possess the Lichna Carta - an official I.D legitimizing my residence in Bulgaria, and hence in the EU. I am not quite sure what all benefits come with this card besides trolling about the country-side, masquerading as a volunteer. But tell you what, it's pretty cool. May be not as cool as the day I was born, but it's far out.

On a different note, I am doing well. Eating healthy. Not running. Missing you all in gross amounts.

Current favorite Bulgarian dish: Sarma - little rice rolls + ground meat wrapped in cabbage leaf. Served with delicious yogurt sauce.

From north-south, east-west all across the world through the much carried hype, Obama is now the president. But none of us knew of the outcome, but Lady Ani*. She's a mysterious lady i am told. And she lives in the foothills of some mountain in Bulgaria. Sources claim that she predicted a "big fire" in the United States in the previous millennium (1998), only to see a world crash at our feet few years later. Subsequently Lady Ani visioned a "chereno" leader for America by the year 2010. So what we do know now? It's the sheer pattern of the stars in the cosmos that gave us Obama as out next president. People's will? You're joking. 

* We have disguised the name not because we're concerned of her safety, but that her name could not be verified. 

Result: Rangers: coolest. Pearls: poorest

Background: About two weeks ago, some of the volunteers from Smolyan region in Southern Bulgaria congregated for their inaugural meeting. As this idea's been floating in my head for sometime now, I went ahead and put it in on the table - a "clandestine" society of cherry-picked volunteers masqueraded as wizards of various sorts. It garnered a great deal for response from the prospective members. 

Thus forward a covert op assembled, dubbed The Rhodope Rangers. Each ranger has a color, followed by an element of his/ her will. Seeing an idea birth like a magnificent rose, another set of volunteers from near-about went forth with their version of the rangers (calling themselves Pirin Pearls). Subsequently, pervasive and perfunctory claims emerged on rival group's enclave (facebook group) about the Rhodope Rangers. Understand that in Southern Bulgaria, there are two major mountain ranges - Pirin and Rhodope. Each may be highly regarded for its beauty, history and culture. 

Now, given that apples cannot be reasoned to oranges, the "pearls" arrogantly insists on Pirin mountain's superiority over the Rhodope. Sure one is taller; the other - wider. One can boast it's Macedonian lineage, while the other may fire-at-will dialect derived from northern Greece. Tourists may enjoy one's wine unique to the region, only to mesmerize at the other's ancient caves and natural bridges. There may be beautiful lakes in one, but cooler ski-slopes in another. And cynics may surely discover the sheer awesomeness of the two. But this isn't a game of one-up is it? No, it sure ain't. But the pearls will never hesitate to not gain that wisdom.

Until now, I didn't appreciate the North-South dichotomy. I still don't, however, geographically from where I stand at the moment, the grass seems greener on my side. Critics agree. So I moved to my site last week. I know some of you have some lingering questions about my business in Bulgaria. So without further ado, I will make an attempt to answer them.

Q. What do you do in Bulgaria?

A. I am a Community Development volunteer, which means I will do anything and everything to accommodate the community. Currently I work for a non-governmental organization (NGO) called Bio-B-Eko. It's chief mission is to alleviate corruption, raise environmental awareness, improve quality of life in the community and develop rural and Eco-tourism. But I am not restrained by organizational boundary.

Q. Where do you live?

A. I live in the Rhodope Mountain in southern Bulgaria in a small village of 3000 people.

Q. How do you communicate with people?

A. My Bulgarian is at intermediate-mid level right now. But needless to say that I make blunders occasionally, such as I may have asked "to cook someone" rather than "to speak with someone".

Q. Do you live alone?

A. Yes. I have my own fully-furnished apartment with a wood-burning radiator, a soviet-era stove and a small fridge. I have a ready-supply of logs to keep me toasty through the winter. And there are animals around me all the time to keep me company.

Q. Hows the weather?

A. Right now it's around 45 F all the time. Winter is fast approaching. Since I live in the mountains, winter should be quite cold.

Q. And the ladies?

A. Hehe, good-looking.

Q. Hows the cuisine?

A. Delicious. However, a bit salty and oily for my taste.

Q. What will you eat during winter?

A. Potatoes.

Q. Hows your social life?

A. Non-existent right now. But most likely it will involve hanging out with the "babas". They are the grandmothers of my village, the backbone of Bulgaria's social enterprise.

Q. Would like your friends and family to send you presents?

A. Yes, please.

Q. Do you have Skype?

A. Yes - shah.khan84