Seeing as the Patriots (my team) is in the
Super Bowl, there is a need to be informed. I am from Massachusetts and during my time in the Peace Corps the Patriots have been to four Super Bowls and today they are heading into their fifth. The first time I was in Leon, Nicaragua and that was a great atmosphere. The second and third I was at Kounkane and Kolda, Senegal respectively. Number four was at Nadlac, Romania and the fifth (today) will be 70 km out in the bush in north eastern Namibia. The first three I was able to watch it on TV. The fourth was through an internet live update feed. To stay updated on this Pats Super Bowl quest, I am going to be using what you see in the picture above ... my cellphone with and internet connection. I have downloaded an ESPN app that will post the plays. I will refresh every minute or so and though it isn't like watching it on the tube, it will still be exciting ... especially if they win. It will require waking up at about 4 a.m. here. It's ok, it's worth it.I am really lucky that I can keep up with the game out here. It can always be worse.One of the aspects of life that living in the Peace Corps reminds one of, almost daily.
Tomorrow morning bright and early it's out the
door and time to head back to the village. It has been about 10 days out of site and it's been a quick ten days but it was a good little break. I actually had a chance to watch TV, go for breakfast a few times and catch up on the soapies (soap operas / telenovelas) that they show here in Namibia. I've stayed in contact with some of the people I work with in the village and there are a few things lined up so it will be some things to do upon return. I was able to do a little more playing around with my netbook computer since here there is 24/7 electricity. So, I converted another one of the Young San Cultural Group's songs. This one I really like and the name of the song is ... people from the oil tree. It isn't exactly a traditional song but it is one that the kids put together themselves. To listen to it and if you want or download just click here when you arrive at the page you will see the player and to the right an option to download. Send me a comment if you like the song. Time to go start packing my things for the 11 hour journey back.
Africa is that at any time, any where, you may see something that you've never seen before. Despite having almost 6 years of living on the continent, there is still a good chance that something unique will appear out of the blue. This morning I walked into town ( I am spending a few days in Okahandja. A city. ) as you can see there is water jetting out of somewhere due to some work mishap. You can also see a car under the water flow. The great thing is the guy drove through then stopped, backed up and basically washed his car in the middle of the street. Can't say I've seen that before and maybe others have but this was a first for me. I just love things like this. Freedom to just do these things without worrying about what people think. Things like this I'll miss when my time is up in 6 months. But it ain't over yet.
I am out of the village at this moment and
took a few days to visit the host family that I stayed with in Okahandja.I had been in the village almost full time since returning from my 1 month vacation at the end of June. I didn't have to stay there all the time but I did because there always seemed something going on that I didn't want to miss being a part of.But I feel that I was due to just relax a bit. Here I can catch up on some of the things that I wanted to work on. In the village the electricity was basically limited to 1 hour a day and when they fixed the big generator and it was on for about 9 hours per, I ran out of airtime for going on the internet to look up information. With the 3G connection we have it costs about 1 USD for 7 megabytes of download/upload. So by being in the city I can get access to buying airtime by just going to the center of town. In the village it is hit or miss with airtime so there are limitations.In the title it says 'A new view' which basically means that I am in another place. In the picture is a part of the new view. On the left is Helvy and on the right is Helena. They are a part of the host family that I stayed with during my first three months in Namibia. It is part of the Peace Corps' program to have trainees live with host families at the beginning. It is actually a very good thing as it gives one a chance to get immersed while making the transition.This family in particular has been very good to me during training and ever since. I visit them every so often when I get a chance to pass by this side of the country.Back to Helvy and Helena ... Helvy is in her last year at the University of Namibia and she is finishing her studies in economy. Also she is from the Ovambo people, one of the many different peoples/tribes in Namibia. In her language to say hello to anyone who visits this blog one would say ... ongeipi ... which means 'how are you'. the reply if things are going well is ... nawa. Helena is still in high school and will be entering the 11th grade. They are both good girls and I am sure that they will do well with their lives.Now it is time to end this blog entry and take advantage of the electricity. Maybe we'll watch a movie or listen to the radio and even crazier, watch TV.Going without those things isn't a real problem and when I get the chance to use these every so often, it really is a treat. I really like how this experience helps keep life into a perspective. I am hoping and am almost sure that from here on in, I will never take any of these things for granted.What a way to enjoy all the things life has to offer ... but it starts by learning to never take them for granted.
At this time of the year I have made it a
habit to take a few moments to reflect. I like to reflect back but also forward. The picture is the view from my back window. I like just looking out it and thinking about things every so often. So I did before I wrote this blog post.It has been a good year all and all. There are always things and situations that could have panned out better but ... as it goes it goes and that's how it's meant to be.To say that the world was changed here in the village in front of our eyes wouldn't be accurate. But, there has been progress and that's all one can ask.The last year's activities were really targeted towards behavior change and that's really a tall task if one wants to see 'instant gratification'. We slogged along and every opportunity that arose, we took. If it was with sports or culture groups or just sitting in the middle of the village and talking one on one, we did it. The probable biggest success was with the cultural group. What started out slow and difficult ended in a bang with the activities of the last few months. It was really heartening to hear the mother of two of the group thank David (group organizer/ leader) by saying that if she had money to give him she would. She said that her two older kids give her trouble but the two that are with the group are good kids that don't give any problems. She can't thank him enough for what he's done for her kids. It was the goal of the group work to help produce good kids. Hopefully we helped to change their future, time will tell. The sports went well but in spurts. If they have a tournament where there is money, they practice like heck. If not, no action at all. We tried to motivate them for the love of the games ... it improved some but it needs more effort. The movies we made at the health in 2010 continued to get mileage. They went to a hospital in the region and the actors from the village got a lot of text messages from their friends who saw their work. They are low level celebrities. Problem, is that we need to make more or at least one with a good message about alcohol abuse. It is the leading source of our community's problems. One of the smallest yet ' more bang for the buck ' activity we did was with the Youth Office. The youth (18 to 35) were in a huge need of CV's or resumes. We worked out a good solid one that the secretary at the Youth Office put in his computer. With his support to complete the CVs at least 15 youth were able to join either the Namibia Defense Force (NDF), police or vocational workshops and courses. It was the largest amount of youth being able to participate in the above mentioned at any one calendar year. That was a definitely good surprise to see.There were also a lot of the small things like helping out anyone that needed it. I always felt that no matter how big or small, it adds up. Of course it does, no revelation there.Then there is the upcoming year. I have until June here so the time is getting short and then there is the sense of urgency setting in. The work here with the San is really a slow process, the slowest than in the other countries I've been in. It is the nature of the beast. So there is a realization that it is most certain that all things desired will not be able to be completed. One real last activity we'd like to accomplish is to take the Cultural Group to Etosha National Park. For me it would be a fantastic climax to the work we did with that group. Of course there are the normal struggles of resources (funds) and logistics. But we will try, all we can do. As mentioned above, one more movie about alcohol abuse. If we make it, people will watch it over and over. They've done it with the other movies so maybe by repetition (on their own choice) something will sink in. Even if I'm not here. Electricity is coming so I hope that it is in place long enough to be able to help a few kids learn a bit about computing. It is a matter of timing, we hope it will be in our favor.I guess that's all for the year end reflections. It was a good year and hopefully the next half year will be equally as good.We'll see if that will be possible ... starting tomorrow.
It is another Christmas time and being in a
warm weather climate (it is summer in the southern hemisphere) gives it a different feeling.In the picture you can see my Christmas present. I've been basically just staying in the village all the time. Except for going out with the cultural group on their excursions, being here is about it. So this is a real treat.A girl from the village named Mildred came back for Christmas to visit her family. She brought what you see in the picture above. Happy Lion is kind of a Kentucky Fried Chicken place that's in the big towns.Mildred had some problems at the beginning of the year while she was living in the capital. I met her when I was there and I gave her a little help and some advice.With that help she got a job in Katima Mulilo and is doing very well at the moment.The other day she SMS / texted me to tell me that she was bringing the Hungry Lion. She said that when she had nothing I was there to help her so she wanted to do this.Christmas presents are in many shapes and forms. It is about being happy which is really the best present of all.The Hungry Lion worked well ... I can tell you that but the present that makes me happiest of all (this may sound corny) is to see that she is doing well.I am also happy that she took the help and made something with it.Just helping one person may not save the world but it will make it a better place, for sure. In the life of a Peace Corps volunteer it may be 1 or 2 or hundreds that are affected, a lot of times we never see any results. It happens after we're gone.But I can say this, seeing Mildred doing well gave me the best Christmas present ... happiness.
The village is experiencing a let down after
the last weekend's tournament. It was really hopping and people are saying that it was the best one ever held here. In a place like this that has no working radio or TV reception, events like this are the main source of en- tertainment.But after the curtains have closed what is there to do? Especially in this holiday season. A lot of people have left, a few others are coming back this upcoming weekend.So, in between there isn't much to do (here is where the picture comes in) but sit in the middle of the village and 'look stupid'. There is actually a story that goes with this. One of the goals of a Peace Corps volunteer is to share our culture with the people we are living with. When there is nothing to do I usually go to the center of the village where there are normally a few people hanging around. During one of these times I explained the sitting there looking stupid statement.When I was younger I played softball for a local team called the Seagulls that was sponsored by the owner of a bar. His name was George (God rest his soul) and he looked almost like a brother to Burl Ives and he had that Santa Claus look going on. George was a great and funny guy and he liked to drink a bit too. One day me and my friend Ray were going to go fishing and we happened to poke our head in George's bar on the way to the pond. George asked us what we were doing and he had had a little to drink at the time. We said that we were going fishing for a few hours and George looks and us and says " fishing ... every time you go by a lake or pond all you can see is these people sitting there with fishing poles in their hands and looking stupid". The funny part was that on the way back we stopped in for a drink (it has to have been over 21 years ago or more because I haven't drank a drop in that amount of time) and there was George, sitting in the same place on the end of the bar. So we said to him ... who's looking stupid now. You're still here and also looking as stupid as a drunken guy with a fishing pole at a pond.Not a big deal story but while just sitting there in the center of town exchanging I told them that one. So now, whenever we ask one another what we are doing that day, if it is going to hang in the center of town, we all say we are just going to look stupid.Cultural exchange comes in all shapes and forms. But one thing I do like about this life is the time that can be taken to just sit and talk and share. Many time it is an American, Mbukushu, Khwe, Xong, Mayee, Silozi, Rukangwali, Subia and Ovambos just sitting there looking stupid together sharing stories and ideas. This is what makes this volunteer gig really something.Oh yeah, the picture is the view from the place where we sit and look stupid.Old George's opinion stills lives on in our little village in Africa.
So they played the finals and it was kind
of funny how they changed the strategy for determining the winner. First it was by a point system but in mid stream they went to an elimination scheme.Here's how it finally turned out. The Youngsters beat Mutjiku 4 to 2. Then in the Finals it was the 'Vultures' from Chetto against the home village's Heroes.It was the best game of the whole tourney and the Heroes maintained and won 2 to 1.In the picture you can see the teams making an opening jaunt across the field and back. They also had to dodge the puddle of water that accumulated after the big rain.Final results:1. Heroes 2. Vulture 3. Youngsters 4. MutjikuThe field that they played on was actually the first real project that we did here. There was a prior soccer field but it was outside the village and full of thorns. Plus it wasn't very amendable to spectators.So after talking for months and getting the backing of two of the schools better teachers (who have left) ... we finally found a location adjacent to the main housing area in the village.The next problem was convincing people to come out and work. That took another two months and it took two more months to take out four trees. Should have taken three days but the four other guys kept saying that it wasn't fair that they were the only ones working. Which was true but I told them that one day they will see the fruits of the labor.It took two years as this tournament was the first one held at this field. It was really just great and I met three of the guys that were with me doing the work. They all agreed that it was worth it and seemed a bit proud and happy that they did the field.The goal was to put the field where people would come and watch. It worked, as at any time there were at least 300 villagers sitting and enjoying the action. I was really surprised to see the people I saw watching the game.It was about trying to build a nice little community setting where people could hang out, relax and enjoy without having to go to a bar and drink until drunk and become a nuisance.Also, the best part about this project was that the total cost of making the field was ... absolutely zero. Not one red cent.I am happy because as I watched the people just having fun, it felt good to see that one of this projects went as designed.Now we have to fix that hole where the puddle is. Should be easy to get those guys out there with me ... this time.
An update is that they played through the rain with the Heroes winning 3 to zero. Now (in picture) it is the semi final with Mutjiku and the Youngsters. The finals to come.
An hour or so after blogging about the beautiful Monday morning I am looking out my back window (in picture) at a small deluge. That's how it goes out here in the South Africa region during the rainy reason. At the time the rain came the local Heroes team was 1 up over the Youngsters of either Chetto or Omega 3. Will find out which later. We ran home like the bulls were chasing us in Pamplona so what the plan is to finally finish the tourney, is something I have zero knowledge of. Looks like the rain is here for a bit. Again, more to come as it breaking.
Blogging from the soccer field with an update on this beautiful Monday morning. In the picture you can see the thrill of victory and the agony. The team in the center (on left) of the field are the Vultures from Mashambo and the team on the right in blue, the Mutjiku, don't know their other mascot name is. The Vultures won 4 to 2 and it was a good match with evenly skilled teams. The Vultures are in the finals and they will play the winner of the next game. So forget what I wrote yesterday about points determining the winner. It will be mano a mano. Next game is starting. More to come.
After the rains cancelled two games
yesterday it delayed the finish. Tomorrow the final games will be played. The manner of deciding the winner will be through the point system.With that it is pretty safe to say that the village Heroes team, should win. They've won all their games and have outscored their opponents by about 21 to 3. So, it seems that they got it.The Heroes girls netball team did win it all and they were crazy with joy. Like I've men- tioned in other blog articles, it's hard to remember a better victory display than what I've seen in Africa.In the picture is nothing much other than a moment in the game that saw our other village team (the Hunters) lose to the 'Vultures' from Mashambo village. The score was 3-1 and it was a good game but with the loss, they where mathematically eliminated from winningIn these tournaments there has been a pattern of some of the teams getting into beefs and arguments but so far, it's been great in the fact that it's been really anger free. The only real anger we saw so far was between an off duty policeman from another town (who was best said ... totally drunk) and his wife. It was a real show but our local police were there and after a bit of bezerko behavior, got it under control.So, tomorrow, the final results to come.
The tournament began at 8 a.m. and they
actually started on time, which was pretty good.There were 3 and a half games before the rain came down in ... seeing as we are in Namibia, it wouldn't come down 'like cats and dogs' but more like 'hyenas and cheetahs'.The first game featured the Chetto A-team against the Omega 3 A-team with the outcome ... a draw 2-2.Next up was our village A-team the Heroes going against Mashambo and the local team put a bit of a hurting on the visiting team to the tune of 4-1.The third game also featured another of our village teams called the Hunters. They lost 2-1 to the Chetto B-team. In the picture you can see the goal that the Hunters scored with about 10 minutes left.The fourth and last half game before the rains came was Divundu facing off with the Omega 3 B-team. It was 5-0 in favor of the Divundu team before the half and before the deluge came.On the netball side the two village teams were triumphant and I think that they may actually face off each other tomorrow but I'm not sure due to the fact that we were running from the rain before I had the chance to get the info.But it has been good till now and the village is really enjoying the event. It is fun to be here and it is even more fun because people from the other villages haven't seen me and are kind of shocked and surprised that I can speak a bit of their San-Khwedam language ... even with a few click words thrown in.So I am going to predict that the finals for the football will feature our village's Heroes team playing against the Divundu team. It should be a great final as the Divundu is really im- pressive.I hope to be able to post the info tomorrow after the finals but if not, then Monday.
I guess that is the best to describe what is going
on the in the picture is ... gas and tourney.The village is sponsoring a netball and football (soccer) tournament which begins tomorrow morning at 8 a.m. In the background are a few of the girl netball players cleaning and grooming their court. The young men went out to the football field and cut new boundaries and lines. Here the ground is nothing but sand so it is necessary to refresh the lines on a normal basis.There will be 8 football and 6 netball teams competing so it should be a big weekend here. It also seems like a time for reunions amongst the people from the other villages.Now the gas part. in the foreground of the pic are people beginning to queue up to get some drought relief sacks of dried beans. Each person that registered got two bags at 5 kilos each or 11 lbs. So with what looked like at least 500 kilos of beans passed out, there should be a lot of gas around this joint for the next few weeks.In the past they gave out maize meal and that had it's problems as some would use it to make a local alcoholic brew called 'tombo'. So getting the beans is a better option as far as I can see.Other than that, it is a slow time of the year with school out. The upcoming project to electrify the government buildings seem to be on hold until after new year. But I hope that the electricity is in place by March so it will give me at least a month or two to work with people on computer skills.The cultural group kids performed for a few visiting people yesterday and it went ok. Wasn't their best but it seems, that what I've observed, is that they are as good as the amount of people that are watching.Other than that some people are coming back for the holidays and it is my last Christmas here so I am staying around and hanging out with the peeps. Nothing spectacular other than spending quality time with friends I've made over the years, in another country and culture. Never ceases to amaze me to be in places like here.Hopefully I'll have some good reports about the tourney by Monday.
The kindergarten is finished for this year
as we mentioned in a earlier blog posting. The area that we used was actually very small and one of our goals was to get or make an area that was at least a little bit bigger. The original kinder had space for 20 kids and the new building will be able to handle 30. It isn't actually a new build but really a rebuild. The mission that we are in was actually a kinder during the time where the South African Defense Force built and occupied Omega. We are really building back up the area that was used as the kinder area at that time. It was destroyed as people salvaged roofing materials and anything they could. But now we are rebuilding it with whatever we can find. We are looking for any materials we can get our hands on. In the picture you can see the beginning of our project. We found some old zinc roofing sheets and also you can see some reclaimed bricks that we will use for the walls. We think that it is worth all the effort we can do to increase the number of kids that will have the chance to attend and receive a good foundation for the beginning steps in their education. The name of our kinder is Emmanuel Kindergarten but after rebuilding the old kindergarten we may have to consider naming it the Lazarus Kindergarten. It is coming back from the dead. We do hope that the Lord will bless us in our work and give us the strength to finish our project and allow us the chance to help more of the very young people in our community.
Last Sunday the 4th was Chief's Day as
I mentioned in the prior blog article. It was a pretty ok day despite the fact that it had a constant but not too strong rain all afternoon.In the picture you can see the kids from the cultural group performing the animal song. The young boy you see is the Chameleon and he is doing his interpretation of one. He is actually the brother of one of the older girls in the group and he also just finished kindergarten last month.The crowd just went wild when they saw him and he was definitely one of the favorites.The group was the high point of the festival. When the dignitaries talked there were a few people. When the drum began the people came running. There was at least 400 people watching. The kids were 'troupahs' (as we say back in Massachusetts) as they danced through the rain.I have mentioned a lot about the group and their activities but I don't think that I've mentioned the real goal behind having this bunch of kids together and occupied.None of the kids families are rich or well off by any means but there is one girl that epitomizes why we are doing our best to develop the group. She is actually the newest girl dancer to have joined. She is also one of the youngest (about 8 or 9 years old) and I think (and maybe I am a bit delusional with this) that, she may benefit the most out of it.Her family consists of her, a small brother of about 6 months, a mother of 27 and a grandfather that I have never seen standing up. He appears pretty feeble.Her mother has HIV, is an alcoholic and really isn't a bad person, she is just having a lot to deal with. Last Saturday when we were organizing the kids for one last practice before going to the Chief's Day Festival we had to send a girl to go find the young dancer. She was at one of the shebeens (bar) watching her 6 month old brother while her mother was drinking. And this was a 10 in the morning.So, the mother to her credit, let the girl go to practice and we got her away from that environ- ment for at least one day.I am hoping that by her participating in the group that it will give her a chance to see another side of life. Also, the rest of the kids are good kids and she has friends that are of good quality and to her, good influences.So, working with the group does have a serious side and there are a lot of the benefits that come from it, I'll never see the final results as in 6 months my time is up.But I know in my heart of hearts that there is a good possibility that at least one young girl out here in the bush, might have gotten a chance.
In the picture you can see the probable
next generation of dancers for the Young San Cultural Group. Yesterday at the practice I had a chance to take the picture of these kids dancing along with one of the songs. It is a song about going in the veld and picking the traditional fruits and food in the bush. The dancers have a portion of their routine where they spin and bend down to pick something from the ground. The picture got a few of the kids doing that part of the dance. It is one of the goals of the cultural group to be consistent and continuous in it's existence. So far there has been two gen- erations and by the looks of it, the third one is in the wings. There has been some success with this as the young kids look up to the older ones and as so far, the older ones haven't been in any trouble (pregnant or going to the bars ... yet) they are what the kids out here need, role models.The group was practicing because tomorrow the 4th is Chief's Day (for the San - Khwe) and they have been invited to perform. They are the only dance group invited and they have been to two other Chief's Day and the crowd liked them. I am going to state that if the crowd liked them then, they'll love them now. As a result of the month long training the kids did before going to the Lodge, they've become even 10 times better.It has been a good run with working with the kids. We've struggled for a year and a half to get things moving and now ... we've been to the Lodge, the nature park, the fisheries institute and in a 'what is in the works' category ... a possible tourist boat trip on the Okavango river. None of the kids have ever been on a boat so it looks like it may be that there could be some impact in the form of a new experience.In the village the school is out and it got a bit quiet. But there seems to be some change in the air. I've lived here for two and a half years and one gets the flow of life after a while. It seems like there has been less drinking and almost no fighting ... is it possible that there is a spiritual revolution going on?Strange things can happen ... I've been told.
Today was a pretty good day in the
effort of working with the cultural group. We are trying to do varied activities with them. It is part of the strategy to show them options and give them ex- periences that kids with resources have access to. We are limited with what we have to work with and to get things done is a struggle and a lot of finagling but sometimes a little luck helps. The planned activity was to take the kids to the Mahango section of the Bwabwata National Park. That section is dedicated strictly for game drives. There was only a single member of the group who had been on one before, so it was a first time experience for 15 of the kids. We were fortunate to get the assistant principal to supply transport (as he is the most reliable option around). We left the village about 7:30 a.m. and it might have been a little late to get to the park to see the animals. There is a road that is about 4 or 5 km long and is specifically for two wheel drive vehicles. The assistant principal's pickup truck (called bakkie here) is a two wheel drive so we took that route. The first pass was pretty uneventful as there weren't many animals and the main animals out were the Impalas. They were a lot of them, more than I've ever seen at this park. The park borders Botswana so we headed to look at the border post. The kids never saw one. It is a simple thing but they now know a little about what it is about. On the way back the kids wanted to go back through the same road in the park and they made the right decision. There were a lot more animals but no giraffes, elephants or buffaloes but there were a few others types instead. There were a lot of kudus, baboons/monkeys, iguana and there was even a hippo with a small baby out of the water. It made up for the first pass. Near the entrance of the Mahango section is a fisheries institute that works with fish farming throughout the region. It is really an incredible place and even though it was a Saturday afternoon and the place was officially closed, they opened it up and gave the kids a tremendous tour. In the picture you can see a few of the kids with the assistant principle inside one of the institute's building. In those tanks are the fish species that the institute works with. These are the only kids in the whole school of 310 students that have ever seen anything like this before. They were really great and even the guide said that they were one of the best mannered and interested groups that he's guided. That is one of the things about development, the thought is to work with the difficult but also I think it is ok to keep the good ones occupied so that they don't go to the other side (as in alcohol abuse at a young age). We also got them plenty of food and those 16 kids can eat so it was a little pricey but it the end ... worth every cent. So now we have have to come up with another activity for them to do. The idea is to have them do kind of a cultural concert / performance specifically for the elders. After watching the kids dance at the school building's inaugural event the elders are asking to see more of the group perform. So, as it goes, it was a great Saturday in the life of this Peace Corps volunteer.
It is not the Super Sunday of American football we're talking about here. But it is our own little version, only bush style. In the picture is action from one of the four netball games played here yesterday. Two teams from a village called Mashambo dropped in to slap our village teams around. They won three out of four games. But that really wasn't a big deal. The big deal was the place was rocking. There had to be at least two hundred and fifty people out on a Sunday going nuts. With the main work here for me being that of behavior change, anything that is good clean fun, helps. As mentioned in prior blog articles, there is a lot of alcohol abuse and it leads into bad decisions and unprotected sex. Of course which may lead to contracting HIV. So activities that eat up time during the day is needed. Good activities that is. But it was really fun and one of the great things to see is the winning team doing their victory dances. Our village team won the last game so maybe the Mashambo team really got tired from dancing all the time and ran out of gas. For me, I never get tired of seeing the small village events. They are grass root without a lot of resources, but excitement filled nonetheless. I guess it is like 'the beauty is in the eyes of the beholder' only that the Super Sunday is also in the eyes of the beholders. Yesterday was super for sure.
I guess putting audio clips on this blog
is like just getting a new toy. So here is another one. I've talked about the San (Khwe) throughout this blog. I am not sure if anybody has heard any of the San languages spoken. If you've seen "The Gods must be Crazy" 1 and 2 then you have heard the clicks that are used in their speech. The San in the "Gods must be Crazy" are not of the same tribe as the Khwe. I really don't know which tribe of San the people in the movies are from. This morning I asked David (leader of the San Cultural Group) to say a few words in Khwedam. In this clip (click here) David is greeting you, telling his name, where he was born and also lives (Bwabwata National Park). He also mentions that some of the animals here are elephants and a few others. Also he welcomes you to the Park. Big upcoming happenings are that the village is going to get electric lines coming in. They are starting to put up some poles next week. We had a village generator but that has only worked for about 2 months in the last year. The electricity coming is good but at first it is only going to the government buildings. The school, the health clinic, police station and the Youth Office. They said it would take at least another year to hook up the rest of the village. For me, I am finished here in about 7 months and no 24/7 electric for this kid in this village. That's life and it's ok. We will keep trucking on with our little camping generator. Despite the not going to benefit from the upcoming electric bonanza, I am happy that the joint is going to develop. And that's tcaka tceha (good really).
In the picture is what they call here a jerry
can. This one is made of plastic and I can say that to me ... it is a hot water heater. It is a simple concept if one doesn't have an apparatus to produce hot water and doesn't want to struggle with the fire wood gig. One of the best things is there are no moving parts, except the twist cap. So it makes it a maintenance free system. Here in Namibia there is about 300 days a year (average) with sunshine. Since I've arrived back to Namibia after a month back home I've only used anything other than sun to both cook and heat water, twice. Doing some seat of the pants not so accurate math I figure that out of about 148 days I used the sun 98.65% of the time. It goes like this ... 8 in the morning put the food in the solar oven and jerry can with water in the sun, finished. When I come back by noon every- thing is ready. Oh, and I got to say, that hot water can get scalding hot. It can turn someone's cheeks another color without a problem.Some Young San Cultural Group info. Today at the village school the dignitaries came to inaugurate a new building. The group was on the schedule to perform and again, they brought the house down. (Probably not a good thing to do after they just built it, eh). When they started everyone came running from wherever to see. I've seen them do their dances maybe a few hundred times but the kids never seize to amaze me as to how well they've not only improved their dancing but also their capacity to entertain. In two blog entries back (the one about the trip to the lodge) I mentioned how Mavandje (the girl that impersonates the monkey in the animal dance) went up to an old man with white hair and acted out grooming and taking out insects from his hair. Well, this time when she danced the animal dance, the old man with the not white hair but balding nonetheless, was the victim. Yup, it was me. Man, I knew she was going to do it, it happened per chance that I was sitting in the front row and I am like, oh oh. She's dancing next and I am in a perfect position. Of course it happened, the people had a great laugh, I probably blushed. It was just great. So as the sun is beginning to set over this village out in the bush in Southern Africa, I will say ... tcaka kara ee, maka tca ... stay in peace where- ever you are.
Many times I've blogged about the Young
San Cultural Group. It is probably time that you actually hear them. I uploaded their harvest song which is one of my favorites. The language is Khwedam from one of the several San Tribes. Here is the link ... Mara Ku Se I hope the link works and I hope that you enjoy the song.
In the last blog article I mentioned that
on Saturday the 5th, we would be going out to a lodge with the San Culture Group to perform. Well, it happened and it all went better than expected. Let me tell you how it all went down. I went by David's (Cultural group leader) house in the morning about 8 o'clock, just before I went to the old airstrip to do some jogging. He was stepping out and I said I'd come by after the run. This took about 40 minutes and he was there with about half the kids. They were stringing a few more necklaces of beads and David and his brother Paulus were going over the clothes to make sure there were all the ties ... etc. The kids were already antsy and saying that the time was going by too slow. So after a few hours I went back to my room and just waited till the arranged pre-departure get together time of two in the afternoon. We were planned to leave at three thirty and maybe two was too early and the kids were just lounging around. We bought some fat cakes and the kids ate and had some sweeto which is equivalent to cool-aid. At three thirty we met the transport (the school's assistant principal) and after loading up fourteen kids and four adults in a small pickup truck, we were off. This was actually kind of a big event for these kids so I was hoping that during the 75 kilometer ride to the lodge that we would be lucky enough to see some animals. I felt that this would just make the experience even better. We were lucky and within 30 kilometers we saw a large male elephant right on the side of the road. To make it even better, in another 20 km we saw a group of at least 80 elephants crossing the road. There had to be at least 20 babies within the group. The babies were sur- rounded by the adults. We arrived in the small town (gas station, store, maybe two other small shops ... that's it) and went to the store to buy the kids some bread and peanut butter for some sandwiches. We killed about an hour getting that sorted and then headed out to the lodge. The lodge that we went to is situated along the Okavango River. There are about 6 lodges along a strip of about 15 kilometers. We arrived, met the owners and were given the first basic once over and shown where the kids could get ready. It was about 45 minutes before they were to per- form. The owners wanted the group to arrive a few minutes earlier to be able to get acquainted with the layout. Seeing as it was our first time there. Finally at 6:45 p.m. the kids began. There were approximately 30 people from Germany, England and the Netherlands there to watch. I have seen the kids do their songs many, many times and I have to say that this time the kids were on. It kind of amazed me as it was their first time ever at any lodge or in front of a group that wasn't San. These kids are ages from 9 to 16 so to me it was even more amazing how well they just went about dancing. But I must say that they took about 4 songs before they started to interact with the crowd. It started in the animal dance when the girl that was impersonating the monkey went up to an older man and emulated picking bugs out of his hair. Man, that was funny and he turned red and his wife had a good laugh. The picture above shows the group during their second song. All in all it was a great night and a great memory. On the way back home we saw a bunch of animals such as elans, buffalo, kudu and elephants. So even till the end it was eventful. Also, the kids were excited and sang in the back of the truck all the way home. Usually they sing for about 5 minutes after leaving and 5 minutes before arriving. So they were animated. Another big point was that the group was the first San group to ever perform at any one of those lodges. So maybe we have opened the door for other San groups. The owner told David that he thinks that we'll be back again and as for me, after a year of trying to get this to go ... I am content. Yeah, sometimes this volunteer gig has it's good moments.
The upcoming big event (for us) is still
on track. As anyone who has ever worked as a volunteer can tell you ... nothing is sure until you've arrived back after the plan went off. But, I am especially concerned about the trip to the lodge coming out somewhat successful. Basically, if we go, that's success. It is the simple criteria we are striving for. The main reason being is that last year the kids were promised that would have the chance to go to Botswana. They were to attend the 'Kuru Festival'. A big cultural event that attracts many groups. They had money to go to the event donated by an NGO that works with indigenous minorities. The kids were pumped and another organization that promised to supply the transport, didn't even show. The kids were just plain ... well ... best said ... their little hearts were ripped out. As a result, they lost confidence, interest and ... so ... if one wants a group together for reasons as to develop or help or support, things like disappointment is not going to bring any kind of good results. So, what we've done is confirmed, confirmed, confirmed, confirmed and re-confirmed. But still doesn't mean that we're going to be in business. But, this time, it seems that it could actually happen. The guy providing transport is the best we can find. The lodge is really top notch. The owners are quality and have an interest in supporting the San within the National Park. So, with a week to go all the stars are lined up and hopefully they stay that way. On the kids side, as you can see in the picture they were lining up to do their routine a second time. The kids are working hard. It surprised me as I have been involved with that group for over a year an a half and I have never seen them this way. I am impressed with their effort. Back to the picture ... on the left in the red shirt is David the group's leader. He's been involved with the cultural group project since 2005. These kids are what you could call of the second generation. This is a good project and it keeps young kids occupied (especially out here in the bush) and it has had a positive affect as all the kids in the group are attending school. They are really just a great group of kids. Yesterday, they put on a show during their practice sessions. David told them that with a week left it was time to buckle down, get serious and try their best. They also motivated a few elders to come and participate. The elders have the knowledge that's not getting passed out due to the different way of life. One of the goals with this group is to do just that. Try and keep the 'Old Ways' alive by handing down the knowledge, just as it used to be. Again, the elders just talked about participating and if the old saying goes ... if I had a dollar for every time ... then we'd be pretty much set. But this volunteer thing is a lot of time hoping and praying that things will work out. Stars, stars ... don't move at least until 7:00 p.m. next Saturday night. This way their little hearts won't be broken again..
It has been oh ... let me think ... something like
a year since I've talked to the lodge owner about our Young San Cultural Group going to his lodge to perform. I mentioned a bit about this being a possibility in the prior blog post. In fact, if they go they will be the first San group to have performed at any of those lodges along the Namibia side of the Okavango River. Since posting that article we've been working on making it come to fruition. The main problem we had was transportation as the lodge is about 75 km or 50 miles away. We've received a promise of being transported by the village school's assistant principal. He's about the most reliable person in the joint, so, if it don't go with him ... then ... it's about impossible to get that sorted. So that is good, then we have an agreement with the lodge owner who is noted as a reputable man so the two biggest issues are ... on paper, solved. It ought to be pretty interesting and the kids are going to basically get thrown out of the boat and have to tread water. Sounds bad, huh? What I mean by that is it will be the first time for the kids to perform at any lodge. Plus, the owner wanted them to show up on the 5th of November because he's having a full house and supposedly they are going to be important guests. Man, got to admit, I really don't know how the kids are as far as anxiety about it goes but, I got a little. Well anxiety seems to be kind of a negative thing, I guess. I really have concern or more like, I am really hoping that it goes so well. Right now the kids are going nuts practicing which is the goal of it all is to keep them engaged in activity. As it has been said: " Idle mind is the devil's playground". Really holds true out here in the bush. We have to nail down a 45 minute program and the group has a mixture of traditional songs and some new ones of their own. As for my work goal in all this ... it's to really get the group to get their first plunge into a new world. The other day I thought back to my time in El Salvador and how we did the 'plunge' only with girls soccer. In the campo (word for bush, rural area) it was unheard of. It took 14 months of cajoling, pleading, begging and finally just plain demanding. But we had one game and we were ... out there ... pushing the envelope so to speak. But two years later I received an email from the volunteer that replaced me and in it was a picture of a girls soccer team with full uniforms. I felt pretty ok when I saw it. So, I guess it is getting easier because this time it was only 12 months to get the activity happening. But I do hope that at least, if they never go again to another lodge to perform, that they will have had one good experience that they'll never forget. Or, I'll get an email with a picture of them tearing it up with the crowd going crazy, can lightning strike same place twice? Oops, almost forgot, in my enthusiasm I am leaning towards, this is all going to work out and we will go. But, through experience it is better to think of the glass as half empty. This way if there is a let down, there's not too far to fall. But, we will get there ... this time ... for sure ... again.
The other day we received our first rain of
the upcoming rainy season. It is really remarkable how the plants spring to life with little humidity. They are what survives and thrives in these conditions. In the picture is one of those plants that flower after receiving it's first watering/rain. The picture is kind of bleached out and my first thought was to shade it a bit to make it look a little prettier, but I decided to leave it the way it is. The reason being is I feel that it gives a good example of the light and ambiance at this time of year out in the bush.This volunteer work is something at times and it really is simply, working with people and not much more complicated than that. The simple and logical way to put it is ... if the people want to, then it will go and the chance of it being actually anywhere close to sustainable, may happen. This is the intro to an update concerning the work with the San Young Cultural Group. I've mentioned it prior blog entries that one of the underlying goals is to get the kids out of the village and give them the opportunity to see and experience some new things. The purpose is to combat the tendencies of the youth to drink alcohol out of what they call 'boredom'. So, to get them out and about will hopefully open their minds and give alternative visions as to which direction they may want their lives to head to. A year ago I met one of two owners of a lodge 80 km or 50 miles from here. At that time I mentioned to him that we had this San Culture Group and is there was any way that they may have the chance to go to his lodge and perform. He said that he was trying to encourage San groups to come to his lodge but hadn't had much success. I returned to the village and told our group's leader what I was told. Well, nothing happened and despite probably bugging the leader once every two weeks, it took the leader's per chance meeting of the lodge's owner to look like ... the show may actually hit the road. As men- tioned above ... if they want to, it will probably work out. We have to begin to work out the details this week and trying to keep the 'glass half full' mantra ... am hoping that it finally will be . I added on one more year here and one of my main goals before I finish is to at least ... once ... see the kids have (as of now) probably the biggest experience of their lives. It could open the door to a fantastic opportunity to have an ongoing working relationship with the lodge. If not, it will be a life skill experience and it is a no lose situation.It is kind of funny but after one lives in a place for a while we seem to get the feeling as how things are flowing. In this village there have been some problems like anywhere else, I guess. Mainly alcohol, a confusion in leadership and throw in a few tricky people ... and ... it all just adds up to a situation that holds everything and everybody back. This has been the circumstance almost ever since I've arrived here but the crazy thing is ... that over the last few weeks some of the people are beginning to stand up and take back some control. The place actually feels different. Maybe there is more than one change of season going on. As the Dalai Lama said; "the true development is the development of the character". I found this to be so true, as if the people have good intentions then things work out fine. Maybe they will even make better life choices.This is good for me as people are coming up to me to help them write reports, proposals and even add two cents of my opinion to it all.It only took two and a half years for this energy to come to life.I have 8 months left and I know that the rainy season is sure to come. I just hope that the motivational season has also just started and lasts till I am finished.
Our Young San Cultural Group uses as
their clothing, skins, just like in the old way. The San cannot hunt anymore as was their cultural/ancestral way. So to get skins it's not like the way it used to be where the hunters would go out and of course bring them back. Now, how one gets a hold of skins is to request it from the local game farms or from the game hunters. There is game hunting allowed and it is done in a controlled manner so as to not deplete the animal population. Our cultural group has grown a little and we were in need of a few articles of clothes for the boys. In the picture you can see one of the managers of the group sewing a skin into a piece of clothing.There were a few things that happened this week. One actually happened and the other is a promise for something to happen. First, the promise of what may happen. That is, that we may get the opportunity to take the cultural group kids to a game park. This will be accomplished with the help of one of the Lodges which are along the Okavango river. The owners are from South Africa and they are interested in working and supporting the San people. They have promised to provide two game watching vehicles and the kids ought to be looking pretty important riding in those. None of the kids have seen many of the game animals and this should be a huge treat. Here it is a bit different as there isn't much transport available for these types of activities. To say the least, this will be big. As a way of saying thank you to the Lodge owners we are hoping to go to the place itself and perform an appreciation program. This will also get the kids to see this Lodge which is a really nice one. So, as it goes time and time again. This is a promise and nothing has happened and seeing is believing but this one seems a little more sure than usual.The thing that did happen was on the 7th it was National HIV testing day. Man, there was at least 150 people that showed up. The other years there were like 15 tops. Don't know what happened but it was crazy. Knowing one's status really is the only way to plan. If one is negative they can continue to protect themselves, or, if they were just plain lucky, then, they can think seriously about protecting themselves. For those who have contracted HIV, then, they can be monitored until or if, they may need to start taking ARVs. But to have that many people come out is close to a miracle. It was a good week and really pretty satisfying.
In the picture is what is for dessert
today. The weather in the southern hemisphere is starting to change and the sun is beginning to get a bit stronger day by day. This gives us the opportunity to get more creative with our solar oven menu as we have more heat to work with. What me and my site mate made were these rolls. There are two types thanks to a care package. We have blueberry and raisin. With the limited supplies we have out in the bush it takes a little creativeness to put anything other than rice and sardines in our plates. It is a simple recipe and if anyone is interested here it is ...-1 and half cups of flour -1 package of cinnamon oatmeal half teaspoon of salt -1 to 1 and a half tablespoon(s) of yeast - over room temperature of water or warm to touchknead that together and let sit in warm place for about half an hour.Then the key to this is to roll it out using an old ketchup bottle into a semi thin sheet. (The bottle is the only thing we had to roll the dough out). Just joking and anything to roll out is obviously ok.Next ingredients are ... - cinnamon - sugar - blueberries - raisinsSprinkle a generous amount of cinnamon and sugar on the top. Then add the raisins and blueberries. Roll them up them cut them into pieces like in the photo.We put them in the solar oven for a few hours but now the sun is overhead and the oven is really hot. So don't know how that would translate into a regular oven temperature.But it came out great, it is a little treat and despite being out here in the middle of nowhere, with a bunch of sun, it can be done.
In the picture on the left are two bicyclists.
They are from France and have been cycling down the west coast of Africa.They've been on the road exactly one year when they dropped in to stay overnight here in the village. At the end of one year they have accumulated 11,000 kilometers.For me it was interesting and I can speak the French language. They were surprised and of course they observed and mentioned that I speak the Quebec / Canadian French. But actually I really speak the Le Senegal village French. I can speak well enough to not be able to go hungry in any Francophone country. But it was good nonetheless to be able to use the language again.Also in the picture on the right is the guy from Romania and his wife and child.We are located in the middle of a national park and there isn't much for miles or kilometers at a time. So, for cyclists our location is actually advantageous.So far we've had a couple from New Zealand and the United States stay here about a month back.This is actually a pretty fun thing to be able to have people drop by and if they are cycling through Africa they are apt to be interesting.As far as activities in the village ... it has been a little slow. The work with the cultural group has been sidetracked due to a church taking the group and using them as a choir. It is ok except for the fact that the church has practice on Friday and then has services later on Saturday. So, they cut into the time that was used as cultural group time.I really don't know how this will pan out but I am hoping that the cultural group will be able to get back together. But this one I am not too sure of.This seems to be a typical scenario. It goes like this ... whenever it is too good to be true, it is.So, it is placing a little more emphasis now on the small business sector or ... working with the guy who is working to develop his beekeeping.So, seeing as plan A is sidetracked, it's time to go to plan B.Now it is out tomorrow to look for a plan C. I found that a volunteer always needs to have one plan in the bank, just in case.
In the picture is a traditional piece used
by the village's San cultural group.The skirt is tied around the waist and the beaded area is worn over the behind. When the girls are dancing the beads move and it adds kind of maracas sound to the songs.The one in the picture is actually a mixture. The yellow pieces are reeds and are actually traditional for the Mbukushu people. They are a Bantu language speaking tribe. The other pieces are porcupine quills.The San (Khwe) people are Khoesan speaking and their traditional pieces are the porcupine quills.For the Young San Traditional Dance Group we have about 6 of those at this time. We are in the process of trying to change the reeds to the quills.To get the quills is not easy and it is more about people happening to find them. So, it is going to be a process to outfit the 6 skirts with the quills.It will take time. Things move slow out here in the bush.
I have been back in the village for over
a month and it is always a little struggle to get momentum going again. But ... things are starting to move. Right now the majority of the people in the village are out in the bush collecting what they call ... devil's claw. . They dig it up, sell it and it is then exported to somewhere in Europe where I've been told they process it for some natural remedy or drink. I really don't know for sure. We have been continuing with the Young San (Khwe) Cultural Group project. In the picture is an old metal shelf from a locker that we'll try and make a nice sign out of. The kids have gotten a little entrepreneurial and have gone out to the road and are trying to attract tourist to watch them dance and hopefully leave an offering. What happens is that we are the first village that anyone comes too after driving 60 km or about 42 miles. So by the time they come up upon the village they are going pretty fast. The kids have found that they need a decent sign that is at least 500 meters or yards ahead of where they are so the people have time to stop or not jam on the brakes and create an accident. So, me and the Romanian guy have volunteered to try and make a good sign that will be easy to read for people who are traveling at 130 kph or 80 miles per hour. We also made a music CD of the songs that the group performs. I took the audio off the video clips that we took of their practices. The group played it last night. I wasn't there but I guess they had a little speaker system and the neighbors all came over thinking that they were performing. The kids danced to the CD and also decided that they wanted to do a few of the songs over and also add to the 12 songs on the disc. We are trying to also take the kids out to the game park to see some of the animals. This is always an exercise in patience and the ability to face rejection and being let down. We have talked with an organization about transportation but we would be going in a few weeks during their school break. A few weeks is a long time when it comes to planning things out here. So, that's on the drawing board and we'll just try our level best to make it work for the kids. I've had a discussion with David the head of the cultural group and a person who works with cultural issues and so forth. The point is that with the change in the traditional ways of the San that the knowledge of the those ways have a chance of vanishing with the passing of the elders. I brought back a small Flip Video camera and the thought is to try and film interviews with the elders and hopefully get them to demonstrate the traditional skills and tell us of the old ways. The thought is that if we can document some or all of it that it would be available for future generations if need be. I am not sure if this has been done before for this San (Khwe) people but no one seems to remember anything like it. The plan is to create a small digital library . But like all the ideas and plans, it seems great and we are ambitious about it. The real thing is ... can we do it. This will take participation and if the elders agree then we are in business. We have one man who lived the old ways until he was in his early 20's, so he would have gone through all the traditional ways such as hunting a springbok on foot. This would have proven that he was capable of being a provider. We will start with him and he is a good man with an open mind and he understands what we are trying to do. I am excited about this as I should have a tremendous chance to learn of the old ways. Of course they will talk in the San language of Khwedam so I will understand not too much. David will fill me in afterwards. Right now the majority of the work is cultural related and in my mind it is more important than what it seems to be. A people have lost their traditional ways and are struggling to find another identity or way. Sometimes it is better to take what you've learned and then go back to the beginning or basics. In this case the basics are the old societal ways. Now, the societal ways are somewhat confused and many of the ways such as only elders could drink alcohol, respect for adults and expectation of young men providing for their families are on the way to being lost. These are just a few examples. By keeping in touch with the old way's expectations from the society and adapting it to today's life, I think that the San could work they way out of the marginalized life that many are experiencing now. All this sounds good on paper but it is a challenge at the least. That's why I came back for a third year.
It has been a while since I've posted to
this blog. In the meantime I've been back home to the States for a month's leave. I arrived back in the village last weekend and have begun my third year here. It takes a few days to get back in the swing of things for the obvious reason that the life in the States as compared to here is very different. It takes energy to grasp a hold of the 'now' and the wheels in the brain were spinning continuously marking the differences from here and there. But it is back and it is time to get back to business. I went to the cultural group's practice yesterday and they were highly motivated and it was really fun and the energy was proverbially off the charts. We've gotten a new skin to replace the one on the second new drum. That was the one that the kids destroyed within the first week. It is a duiker skin and should be a few times stronger than a goat skin. They said that the duiker skin should last at least three years. All we have to do is get the man who made the drums to do the process of treating the skin and make it fit. We did a little home improvement as you can see in the picture. With electricity at what is best described as 'sometimes' we have to always have the candle back ups. We made four of these wall mounted candle holders out of some wood that was laying around. One person mentioned that we are getting the old castle lighting scheme going. They may call it that but I call it mood lighting. In fact, it's really kind of nice at night and has a peaceful and tranquil effect which is a good way to end anyone's day. So, it is back in the saddle again and as things get moving, I will be posting more entries. One more year and more ahead.
In the picture you can see four of the
kids who are part of the Young San Cultural Group.In their hands are from left to right ... can on a stick with some beans in it. The girl on the left has the 'kaworoworo'. I had a past blog article about it and if you put kaworoworo in the search field in the above right it should search it out, if your interested. The only thing I can add to my knowledge of the kaworoworo is that by trying to play it, I've found that as simple as it looks, it takes some practice. So far, it appears that I need a bit.The next one is one of the new drums. In fact, it is the big bass drum and you can see in the middle of the drum's head a black substance. That's from bees wax and they put that on there to increase the bass sound.To the right the young girl has the '|'guru' and again, there is a prior blog article concerning it. Again, what I can add to my knowledge of the |'guru is through my playing it. This one is easier and you can see in the girl's right hand what looks like a melon skin. That has a little hole on the side of it and there is a little piece of some type of membrane over it. It plays best on the bare stomach and it seems that it is something that's played while someone is singing.There are about two to three other instruments that we need to get, plus also need to learn how to play.The second new drum's skin is already destroyed. It only took a week so we have to look for a new goat skin again. This time the kids are going to pay for it. They have a little fund they acquired from dancing for a few tourists.So the group's leader told them, you broke it, you fix it.The leader of the group is doing a good job and is not only concerned with dancing and performing but also the development of the members character. Out here in the bush and in this village, it is just so important.But one thing I can say about the kids screwing up the new drum ... well ... kids are kids no matter where they are in the world.
As mentioned in the prior blog entry,
Saturday was supposed to be a special night of dancing by the Young San Cultural Group.Well ... it happened ... it was something.Around 6 p.m. everybody was in place at the tree/cultural house area, ready to go. The two new drums were in front of the fire heating up the goat skins to tighten them up for the night of song and dance.At 6:30 when everything was organized the first beat of the big drum (bass) started it all. The sound of the drum was the call to the village and about 30 minutes later the people began to arrive.I was really interested in watching the elders and how they seemed to either enjoy or not enjoy the spectacle. To get to the point, they enjoyed it.The kids danced even more energized that during the usual practices and the crowd really went wild. The spectators jumped in and danced with the kids whenever they had the whim to.We had two bonfires spread apart by about 5 to 6 meters and the dancers danced between them. In the night of the full moon and with the bonfires blazing, added up to ... well ... wow. It was surreal with the drum beating and the people dancing.The kids danced for a total of 8 and a half hours and it ended with almost all the kids sleeping in front of the fires at 4 o'clock in the morning.At around 2 in the morning people passing to another village stopped and it resulted in a dance off. It was the kids on one side and older (20 to 35) on the other side. It was about even as to who won and it was people giving it their all, so as the saying goes, everybody won.In the end the maize meal porridge was served and everyone ate till full and that's about the time the kids started dropping off by the fire.In my opinion it was even more successful than I thought it would be. The idea was to re-enact how it was in the 'old days' when being around the campfire at night was a way of life.I haven't met any of the elders to ask their opinion of how it was but I am feeling that they enjoyed themselves.A goal of this was to make an activity that would attract people away from the bars. It is only a one night thing but even one night with less time in a bar is going in the right direction.As for me, I never get tired of being there seeing these type of events. Even after many years I am still thankful that I have the opportunity to experience these incredible moments.
In the picture you can see one of the drummers
from the Young San Cultural Group tuning our second and newest drum.Now the group is fully equipped with their own drums and there is more to come to outfit the group to be as traditional as possible.Even though we are striving to have all the traditional items, it doesn't mean that the songs and dances will be totally traditional.These are young kids and they are creative. They have made new songs and new dances themselves. It is fun to see the old traditional songs to keep the 'old ways' going but it is encouraging to see the young people creating and making for the future generations, their version of their now culture.The drum head is made from a goat skin. Depending on some factors, the skin gets stretched out a bit, at times. So, to tighten it up it just requires making a fire and placing the drum near the fire, as seen in the picture.The girl is actually beating the drum and will remove it from near the fire when she gets the skin tightened to where it makes the sound she's looking for.Tomorrow night's plan for having a night time performance by the group is still on. We bought some maize meal to make some porridge and will make a sauce to go with it.The program is simple. We cook some food while the dancers dance. We formally break out the two new drums, hopefully some of the villagers will come out and it will keep them away for drinking for a little while.It will be the first time for this activity in the village since 'the old days'. Well, that's what I've been told.
I just returned to the village after a few
days in the capital. As mentioned in the prior blog post, the cultural group received their first drum out of two that was requisitioned. The man standing behind the drum is about 5 ft 8 inches or 1.727 meters tall. That should give a rough idea as to how tall the drum is. This evening the Cultural Group broke it out for the first time. It was a energized moment. The dancers danced spiritedly in honor of their new drum. This drum has a real heavy big drum sound to it and there is no doubt from anyone hearing it, that it is substantial. The drum head is made of goat skin and being that it is new, is still a little damp and will tighten up more in time. Despite that it has a good sound. The man who made the drum at first was skeptical that we would pay for it. He mentioned that he'd made drums before for people whom didn't pay. He was one happy man when he received his money immediately upon completion. He then went back to finish the second one and said that by Monday it should be completed. The man worked hard and had to travel out deep in the bush to find the tree suitable for the drum. He went into a somewhat dangerous area where there are buffalo, elephants, hyenas. If there are buffalo, then probably a few big cats and of course snakes, just to make this drum. He did a great job and again, it sounds strong. An idea for next Saturday night is to bring both new drums out to the cultural area, light a fire and have the group perform for the village. Just like it was in the 'old days'. I hope we can organize it and make it happen, it would be great to be able to step back in time for one night.
Even though English is spoken in many countries
there are differences. The header is an example of that. In the States the header would be ... Walking in Rundu. But here, if I said the word walking, not too many people would understand what I was trying to say. Time and time again I keep forgetting and use the word walking and have to consciously make a note to remember to use 'footing' the next time. I took the picture while footing to the food store and the land on the other side of the river is the neighboring Angola. At the moment I am in the Capital and hopefully by Friday it is back in the village. I've received a message that the drum we had a man make who lives two villages over, is finished. It will be the property of the Young San Cultural Group and it should be the first of two. We are having a little trouble finding a goat skin for the second drum and when I get back I hope that we can get on that. So for now, it is goodbye from Windhoek.
The name of this blog 'Back to Africa' is
based on my returning to another country on the continent. First I spent almost 3 years in Senegal West Africa, then arrived here in Namibia two years ago. This blog entry will be mostly describing the kola nut that we had available in West Africa. The reason is that a few months ago, another volunteer I met took a trip to Mali to visit a friend. I asked him if he could bring back a few kola nuts and as you can see in the picture above, he did. It sure brought a trip down memory lane and I added some stats on the kola nut ...Kola nuts, are native to West Africa. In the 1800s, a pharmacist in Georgia took extracts of kola, sugar and coca and mixed them with carbonated water. His accountant tasted it and called it "Coca Cola." Today, Coca-Cola still uses kola in its original recipe. The original Coca-Cola contained coca leaf extracts (a source of cocaine prohibited in soft drinks in the U.S. after 1904.)Kola nuts form an integrated part of the social life; the nuts are valued for its stimulating, aphrodisiac and healing qualities.The nut's aroma is sweet and rose-like. The first taste is bitter, but sweetens upon chewing. The nut can be boiled to extract the cola. Cola nut is a breath sweetener and contains three times (kola has 2–3.5% caffeine) the caffeine of coffee.The use of the kola nut, appears to have ancient origins. It is chewed in many West African cultures, individually or in a social setting, to restore vitality and ease hunger pangs. Kola nuts are an important part of the traditional spiritual practice of culture and religion in West Africa. Kola nuts are used as a religious object and sacred offering during prayers, ancestor veneration, and significant life events, such as naming ceremonies, weddings, and funerals.In Senegal the kola nut was definitely used in social events like meeting a village chief, a gift for someone's future in-laws at holiday times, baptisms and just about everything else.One other custom was for someone who traveled or spent time away from the village, they had to bring some presents back to the family. Of course the village tried to take advantage of it and everyone asked for a gift.So, what I used to do was buy a kilo of kola nuts and a bag of candy for the kids and for about $7 USD I was able to take care of the whole village of 300 people with as far as gifts were concerned. Also, they were pretty happy with the kolas as the ones that were daily users of the kola, didn't have to deal with a caffeine withdrawal that usually resulted with them having splitting headaches.So having these kola nuts here in Namibia was a fun thing. Didn't need to drink any coffee and like mentioned above, a small trip down memory lane went along with the goods.No one here has ever seen any so I was able to do a bit of cultural exchange as well.But got to say after getting a little caffeine buzz that it'd be nice to have some of these kolas around.
to learn. After being in the village
for almost two years it would seem that there wouldn't be a lot of things that I haven't seen.But as I learned last weekend that just is not be the case.In this San (Khwe) culture there has been a huge transition from the hunter/gatherer lifestyle to the 'newer' way of life. What has happened is that a lot of the bush knowledge is being left aside. The younger generation haven't the skills that their parents and forefathers have.It is the way it is now and for that reason I enjoy collaborating and supporting the Cultural Groups as they try to keep in touch with the Old Ways.An example can seen in the picture above. What you see are two of the young girls in the Cultural Group learning the process of making rope. The girl in the foreground is the assistant leader of the group.In this case they harvested what looks like a normal cactus/succulent plant that is just everywhere out here in the bush.The process of rope making begins by placing a stick on the ground then with another slightly modified stick, strip off the pulpy/skin of the plant. This is a little bit of work and what is done is a foot is also used to add pressure during what can be best described as the scraping process. The result after scraping off the pulpy part are fibers that are then divided up to be rolled by hand into rope.What was done was two groups of fibers of approximately 20 each were placed on the thigh. With one hand holding an end of each group, the other was used to roll the groups.One group of fibers were as result rolled in and incorporated into the other in an easy and efficient manner.The finished product was one strong rope and it had many uses and what was especially interesting was how it was used to make a trap. I hope to be able to get a picture of that in the future so I can add to the blog.It is one of the hunting methods that the San people have used over the millennium.For me, it was something new and reminded me that I really have a lot more to learn about the 'Old Ways' of the San people.
Saturday mornings are usually kind of slow.
There isn't any school so there aren't learners moving about. At this time of the year the people are still out in the fields so the central part of the village resembles a ghost town on the weekends. This morning I happened to step out and go the one of the village's little shops called (kuka shop). Just needed to get a few things and it was a glorious morning, sun out, no clouds and just the right temperature. As I was walking back home all of a sudden came this drone of what I thought was an airplane. Lo and behold coming in from the east was what you see in the picture above. Our village is an old military base converted to a settlement/village. So we have this really official sized landing strip that still survives in good condition approximately 35 to 40 years after it was put down. I was told that several years ago that the Klitscho brothers (boxing champions) actually landed here as part of a promotion they made for some organization. But today it wasn't any boxing champions, just two German guys that are working doing some aerial research. They needed to refuel and was on their way back from the DRC (Democratic Republic of Congo). Eventually they will go back to where they originated their journey somewhere in South Africa. They were very personable guys and they gave balloons to the kids that you see in the picture. It was an unexpected moment of excitement for the village on a Saturday morning and it killed and hour of time. So if you have a landing strip in your backyard you have to expect people to drop in once in a while, isn't that safe to say?
I've been out of the village for about 2 weeks. Been up in the capitol and Okahandja. In the picture is some of the people who participated in a culinary cultural day. It was held at the training center and it is an activity to acclimate the new group of volunteers to the diverse cultural foods of Namibia. And speaking of diversity, the girl on the left is a Ghanain-American and on the right is an Iranian-American. Kind of interesting to be around the peoples of different cultures. Even if they are from one's own country. But now it is riding in a pickup truck back to the north and hopefully with luck, the village.
Right now I am in the Capital (Windhoek) for
a few days then it is off to spend a week in Okahandja with the new group of trainees. They arrived a few weeks ago and during their training cycle there are experienced volunteers spending time with them to talk and pass on what they've learned. The picture is just a view from the room that we are staying in. Windhoek isn't a bad place as far as Capitals go. It is actually fairly easy to move around and it isn't anywhere near as congested as other capitals. This is due to the fact that Namibia is the second least populated country in earth. Only Mongolia is less densely populated. After living in the bush for most of the two years that I've been here, coming to the big city and having access to the amenities is a treat. But, what comes to mind is that the simplicity of the village isn't such a bad thing. But once in a while a little splurging isn't a bad thing to do. So for the next two weeks it is food, hot water and real stores that have more than 10 things in them. It is a time of plenty.
In the picture you can see the members of the older
San (Khwe) cultural group from the village. Today we had what is best described as an outing. For all but one of the group, it was their first time ever in a boat. The village we come from is about 70 kilometers from here and directly in the bush, no rivers around. It was a real good experiential day for the group as we also visited 3 lodges along the river as a fact finding, motivational and life experience exercise. The boat was generously provided to us by Nunda Lodge. We went out for about an hour an a half and the main animal attraction for the day was the hippos.We saw a family of about 7 with what looked like at least 5 babies. Also there were plenty of birds to see too. We then ended the day at the local fisheries center. It is an impressive place and is a research, resource and informational hub for fish farming in our region. It is well done. The importance of all this is that the village has barely radio service, no television and newspapers rarely surface. There is just no real consistent source of information for these kids. So, activities like these are eye openers and hopefully motivators. The least, the group is a little bit more intelligent for the information they've received. Out here without sources of information it is like building a house one brick at a time. Every bit of information is a building block for development.
Life 70 kilometers out in the bush is moving
along at it's usual pace. The work with the cultural group continues (picture - group working on list of songs) and the kids are not only getting better but also becoming extremely creative. They've made about 5 more new songs. It brings up a point about culture. Culture is really an ongoing process. As the kids have learned old songs they are also making new ones. The main part of my work has been in the direction of behavior change. Working with, for example, the cultural group, the goal is to keep the kids engaged and hopefully down a good path. It has been almost two years since arriving in Namibia and in the 3rd week of April it will be the second year anniversary in the village. I have asked for and received one more year in Namibia. So, this time next year I should be writing about a third year anniversary. There are quite a few things that can still be done here in the village. So I decided that I'd stick around and continue to hopefully help out. So, there is another year of blogging ahead.
At this posting it is almost exactly one-twelfth
into a new year. Things are moving along very rapidly and the holidays went well. With Christmas in the village and New Year in a town called Rundu, it was a good mix of styles. In the village it was with the new site mate (named Gretchen) and we just cooked, talked and mingled with the villagers. It is always a little bit awkward feeling to be in a warm country at Christmas time. I am from the northeast in the States so it is usually cold. After the years we must get a little programmed into how it should feel at certain times. In the new year we are continuing forward in evolving the little projects and activities that we've begun since I've arrived here. One thing about projects that I've learned, that is that if sustainability is the goal, then it takes a length of time to get it solid. It is all about the management and that's the biggest challenge. Despite the all the time I've spent in the Peace Corps and living with different levels of accommodations, there always seems like there is something new to discover. In the picture you can see a candle under a pot. With the village generator broke again and it raining fairly well (making fire wood wet) and not having a gas stove, it requires a little imagination to cook. With that setup we made coffee, cookies and soup. It is just using the simple principle of putting heat into a pot. Candle gives off heat, so it seemed possible and it worked. It is fun to try and figure these things out. At this time I am in a city called Okahandja getting ready to head out to our group's COS or close of service conference. It is almost 2 years already since we arrived in Namibia. It is always an interesting time. Reflecting back on the journey is always special. There are always the good and bads but at this point they are the tools that have helped us change over our tours. It will be the last time that we will be together as a group. People will be leaving at different times over the next three months, so these next few days are the last chance to hang around together. In the end, we were like a team. We came, we did what we could and we always have the memories. It makes coming here all worth it.
Today the 4th is a day of celebration for the
San (Khwe) people. It is Chief's Day and this year it was held in our village. It is on a rotating basis and next year it should be going up to the next village.On this day the government allows a few animals to be hunted and the meat is then given to the Khwe and is distributed to every village and person.This year they hunted one elephant, a buffalo, kudu, maybe a hippo and some other smaller animals like a springbok or two.Also part of the day's activities was our Young San cultural group. Even though the picture is of poor quality it does show the group on the left and the people standing around the dancing area. There was also a place a little to the left where I took the picture and where the headmen and special guests sat.The kids danced their hearts out and the crowd really just went wild. The older people also jumped in and danced with the kids. They didn't want the them to stop.It was a good day.
We have just begun a cultural project with
the members of the Young San Cultural Performance group. Above you can see a picture of a tree with some poles around it and people underneath it. That is the beginning of our project to build what is called a 'Kwara'. What a Kwara is is a traditional San homestead. The idea of the Kwara was to build a place that was safe from animals, such as lions. What the San would do when the resources started to get low, they would leave food and water for the elders while the young people went out and found another bountiful area.Then they would build a new Kwara and come back and get the elders who had stayed safe in the old one. Though we haven't near completed this Kwara and I think that it may take a little time due to the fact that we will need some dry grass to build some traditional huts. There will be some available in a few months after the rainy season. Still, we need to put more poles around the tree in the vertical position and also require more to put around horizontally. Enough to make at least three rows. The great part about this Kwara is that since I arrived, David (the leader of the cultural group) was talking about making a cultural center. I think that he was waiting for a proposal or project to come along. One day a few months back he mentioned that we should make a traditional structure that could serve as a cultural center. So, here we are in the process of making this Kwara. Thinking about it, this seems to be the best solution for a cultural center, as it should. Also, it costs virtually nothing to make and the members of the group are participating and in the process learning about the old way. We are thinking of the possible usages of this Kwara. As mentioned above, a cultural center and with this as a base things like ... a place for the group to practice, a traditional area to greet and have meetings with government officials and also as a fantastic traditional space if any tourists or visitors come. I can just envision the Young Cultural performing in the Kwara and how fantastic it is going to be to see. David is about 30 years old and told me that he was lucky that when he was a child he had the chance to see one of these. In the last 25 years or so he's never heard or seen of one. So, it is really important that we make this Kwara as original as we can. We are hoping that the elders will come out and tell us exactly how the Kwara was, in it's design and in it's usage. Such things as where the headman had his hut and where the cooking fire was and so on. So, even though we aren't finished and there are still many things to do, I am grateful to be a part of this and to have the opportunity to learn first hand about the old ways of the San. It is important that this project goes well, seeing as there is virtually no one under 30 to 25 years of age that's ever seen a Kwara. In one generation, all the past traditions have been left behind and are only a part of the elders. Building this Kwara is not going to change the direction that the San people are heading in. They will eventually all have the cars and the luxuries but we are hoping that through efforts like these, that the young will know and see what was their incredible way of life that ended only a short while ago. I am thinking that I would like to be able to continue posting articles concerning the progress of this Kwara and one day have a finished Kwara to present instead of a 25% completed one. I think that I prefer that there are a few entries before it is done. The slower and surer it goes it seems the more details about the how and why come out. This project I am really excited to be a part of.
Today, 1 December as you probably know is
World AIDS Day.In the village we had a few activities to bring awareness of World AIDS Day to the community and especially to the youth. It has been told to me that many of the people here haven't even heard of this day.We organized a mini netball and soccer tournament as a way to bring attention to the topic of the day.In the picture, the community counselor from the health clinic (second man from left in black shirt) and the youth officer (man on the left) are giving out the first and second place prizes to the netball squads.There was a small sum of prize money for the teams. It was about 7 dollars USD for first and 3.50 for second. It was only an amount to go out and buy some fatcakes and some type of drink that they make out of corn meal. Or anything else that they wanted to get.With limited resources there wasn't much else we could do but despite that, it came out ok.I really doubted that it was going to work and thought that for that small amount that there wasn't going to be much interest but, surprisingly, there was. There had to be at least 50 to 75 people at the netball game and easily double that at the soccer match. Plus, the vast majority was youth.In the end I was pretty happy with the way that it worked out. It was a community based and funded activity that hit it's target group (youth) with the information about what was World AIDS Day and it's meaning.I always feel that we are on the right track when we can do things like this with our own initiative.Tomorrow I will do an informal verbal questionnaire in the village and see if was something that we may be able to replicate on other special days. If it can be, then we can have quite a few days like this.We probably didn't make a huge impact today, but that's ok. Just like the tortoise and the hare, slow, humble and steady can win a race too.
In the picture there is Anton playing a musical
instrument called the kaworoworo. It is obvious to see that it is a piece of wood which is bent and with a string. The bent wood tightens up the string till it gives the desired sound. On the side that you can't see, are small cuts into the wood or notches. These are situated at the bottom of the arc. Above you can see Anton holding the kaworoworo and at the same time he is moving a stick across the notches, with the thumb of his other hand he is moving the string in and out and also ... adjusting the sound with his mouth, which acts something like a speaker. It has a twangy but earthy sound to it. Interesting thing is that no one in the village I am in knows how to play it. (Anton is not from our village). From what I was told, it has only been a generation or two since the kaworoworo was used almost nightly. At night the men used to sit around the fire and play the kaworoworo while telling stories and giving out wisdom. Stories of how greed was the downfall of a person, for example. These stories were told to teach the younger ones the ways and wisdom of the elders. The problems we have is that we need to go several villages over to find some elders who still can play these instruments. Then we need to find some of the younger ones who want to learn. Hopefully through our efforts we can save some of these traditions within the village before it is too late.
Being from the USA and here out in the bush
of Namibia on a Thanksgiving Day makes one go out and try to do something a little special.In the picture is our Thanksgiving Day meal. No turkey, gravy or stuffing. There's none of that out here 70 km (46 miles) from anywhere.We just have to make do. We put this little quick and simple feast together. We, as in me and my new site mate Gretchen.The bread is actually a Romanian recipe called gogos. The s at the end of the word should have a little 's' underneath it to give it a 'shuh' sound. They are really good and actually make a little pocket to allow a filling if desired.In the bowl is an 'out in the bush what you got' recipe. It is cooked dried split peas with sardines in chili sauce added in are some salt, pepper and ketchup.It came out ok and was a good meal. Bob the Romanian guy came over and we had a nice little Thanksgiving day.In this case it wasn't the food that was the center of this Thanksgiving for us out here in the bush, it was the people we were with.For me, I will always remember Thanksgiving Day 2010. It was me, Gretchen, Bob the Romanian guy and a pile of gogos.
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