December 2009

We traveled 10K to Bansmnore' school for a talk with the 100 students about dental hygiene and healthy diet. They were expecting us and the director welcomed us warmly. The children were eager and attentive for new information. Six students volunteered to demonstrate teeth brushing using the Niim stick or toothbrush, and powder or paste. We gave them sports and school supplies and the PTA gave us three chickens in appreciation. The wind to our backs aided our return trip to Thyou bakery and market that morning.

The chicken donation made a wonderful meal the next evening as we sat together in Georges courtyard with family and friends and shared rice and sauce, chicken in sauce, tomato and cuke, my biscuits, and rice-eggplant dish Jonathan brought. He also brought his guitar and suddenly there was drumming, singing and dancing as more people came. It was great fun!

Minata had helped me make millet porridge enriched with Moringa powder to use in my final gathering with the women at the maternity. I had the help of (midwife) Albertine. We brought a chart and Moringa branch to illustrate our talk and the easy process of pulling the leaves off for use. We talked about the benefits to their diet especially for malnourished infants and nursing mothers. I reviewed the recipe and demonstrated how to make the porridge, then we passed out samples for everyone to taste. I showed the women how to add Moringa leaves, fresh or dried to their sauces. All the while Albertine was emphasizing the key points to her patients. The Moringa project with 150 trees we planted in Sala will aid everyone.

That afternoon Angela gave the medical staff 2 suitcases of equipment and supplies her hospital (Southwest Washington Medical Center) donated to the CSPS clinic in Sala, BF. The staff inventoried all and the Major said “Merci Infiniment!” They were so appreciative. In fact they brought dinner to my house that evening. As a group we ate and talked about poverty in Burkina and the generosity of Americans. It was time for Angela to say goodbye to the people particularly in our compound. They were sad to see her go. We made the trip to Ouaga and toured the Artisan Village for gifts before she flew out Friday evening.

When I returned to village Jonathan and Sabrina came to get my exercise ball and a mattress that I had. Another director from the Salou school came by for school and sports supplies I had. Sunday morning after Mass, Father Jack blessed the harvest donations the families brought for the needy. The priests will distribute in the district. Afterwards at the market we visited with many people, some I gave printed photos to. At home I continued passing out clothes and various things people back home had given me to donate to the Burkinabe'. I was baking every morning and enjoying my dutch oven. My neighbors liked tasting those fresh treats.

By weeks end I visited with the Major and thanked him for my time in Burkina especially working with his health clinic. A joyous occasion came to me that night when Albertine called about an imminent birth. She predicted it would happen in 4 hours. She woke Adama the pharmacist, and asked him to come and unlock medication she needed for the woman as she neared delivery. The midwife monitored her blood pressure and other vital signs. The laboring mother would occasionally moan with contractions, and close to 5am I heard her bear down.

Suddenly the baby's head crowned and with another contraction she delivered the head, and skillfully Albertine turned it's head to the side and the infant cried. On the next contraction the shoulders arrived, followed by the rest of it's body. She laid the infant on his mother. Albertine pressed on mom's abdomen and delivered the placenta with a brief tug on the cord. She saved it in a pan, later examining it carefully and rinsing it before giving it to the family for traditional burial ritual. The new mother stayed overnight for observation. In the morning I took them a new homemade baby quilt from Sally, and gave congratulations.

Second Week in December 2009

The CREN (Center for Recuperation of Enfants with mal-Nutrition) worked months on the plans for the inauguration today of the facility in nearby Sabou. It contains a center for malnourished infants and their mothers as well as an emergency room and short term hospital with laboratory, pharmacy and ambulance services. The morning Mass was sung in French, Moore' and Latin for the occasion. Italian priests arrived to honor the work of the Order of Mary. The Monseigneur and the Health Minister were in town for the event as well as many other national and local dignitaries. Entertainment was put on by dancers, drummers, masques, and theater groups, etc. After many speeches, lunch was served in the main hall of the CREN.

Dominique, a local functionnaire, drove two villagers and Albertine and I to Sabou to the event. Many NGOs worked together to bring this project to fruition.

Midweek we brought photos to the schools in Thyou and regretfully said goodbye. Many of the children and teachers asked for pen pals in America. Then we took the moto to Dana and Zao to say farewell and donate school supplies, including a soccer ball. The teachers were so happy because they had just asked the parents to organize enough money for a soccer ball for the school. We said goodbye to the ASC Bili in Zao and another good friend, Atia.

Back in my compound later I gave Salame a pair of slip on shoes, and bartered with two boys to water our Niim tree and Hamadou's Moringa tree in exchange for the soccer shoes I gave them. These boys, Yakuba and Seni both wanted a headlamp for studying at night. In the evening all my neighbor kids came to play with Luke's transformer toys he had bagged up for kids in gramma's village.

During these last days I baked every morning in my dutch oven to use up pkg mixes Chris sent. I also made biscuits and cookies from scratch. Thursday I took a batch to Bibata, a nurse at the clinic. I found the midwife weighing the babies alone, and we worked together all morning logging the weights and immunizing the infants. Towards noon the new mother and baby come too, and I was so happy to see them doing well. In the mid-afternoon the Major and the midwife sat down with me and Georges to talk about the instructions for the sterilizer that Connie had given the clinic. We translated into French how to use it, much the same way as their old one.

Issaka came to visit and talked a long time about poverty in West Africa. He said that most days the children don't eat breakfast or lunch, only dinner, because of no money and no food. He wants help buying a machine for farming. Minata also came and asked me to buy her a charrette, cart for hauling things back to and from their field. She showed me 7 bags of peanuts she set aside to help pay for her kids schooling next fall.

That evening I made beans and rice for the neighbors, sending over dinner to the adults, but eating with all the children myself. We made burritos with all the Mexican accompaniments that Chris had sent. The next morning I hung sweaters out on the ledge on my veranda and the women and girls tried them on until one fit and away they went happily. I had boxes from American donors to distribute before I left in a week. Zongo Tanga came by for an American-French dictionary, one of many I would give away.

At the conclusion of Sunday morning service I said goodbye and thanked the members who welcomed me there two years earlier. Jean Baptiste told the congregation that I had rode my bike all the way every time to church and that I was part of their family. I shared that they will go home with me in my heart. They clapped.

It was market day, so I had a chance to share simple things and farewells with some of my friends there, i.e. Florence and Marie got a whisk and peeler. Amidou, the ASC from Bouyou village bought us a calabasse of melange. It was fun to chat with everyone. We proceeded on to Henry and Veronique's place to take some family photos. Then to Koala Jean's new hangar where his wife was serving her homemade dolo.

On Monday I gathered up the surplus food items for the PCVs at the Transit House. I also had clothes for them to peruse, i.e. cocktail dress. Now I began my three days of medical and dental tests before going home. I had exit interviews, bank account to close out and some documents to write up. It was a packed schedule. One morning I had coffee and granola mix with Marte, the director's wife and a fine person. Other fellow volunteers, Becky treated me to lunch Tuesday and Kait took me to dinner in the evening.

Wednesday evening Sanfo's wife, Awa took me and two other PCVs going home for the holidays to the airport. I went there to greet my daughter, Heather. We hugged and hugged. This is her first world trip beyond North America. We had an omelet sandwich in the morning before I went to get the results of all the testing, which was good news. In the afternoon I finished some written reports before going to the director's office for the staff's gathering to say goodbye to me. They clearly are proud to have a senior PCV come to Burkina Faso and persevere through many obstacles. They commented on my love for the Burkinabe'. Finally Doug Teschner gave me his Peace Corps cap. (Heather taped the event.) My last day as a Peace Corps Volunteer was very emotional for me.

As I returned to my village to show Heather around, I asked Bouba, the bush taxi driver, if he would transport a charrette (donkey cart) back to village. So on Saturday evening he did that and the kids and I went down to the road to get it and surprise Minata with this new aid for the family farming. With tears in our eyes Minata and I hugged. It was truly a pleasure to help them.

We packed up our tools and a dozen Moringa trees to make one last effort at the garden by the school. The guys and Heather dug holes and replaced a number of trees. Then Achille and Madi were painting a new sign for both gardens. Issaka, the president of the soccer group and Karim, my village counterpart, each brought a friend who needed soccer shoes.

Sunday after the village chef and the two family chefs came over for coffee, Heather and I biked to church for my last service in Thyou at St. Irene's parish. Heather taped the beautiful singing and I was so proud. I took her by the bakery and the market, where we enjoyed pork sandwiches. We gave out two mosquito nets to Irene and Pascal that Heather brought from America. They were humbled by the donation. That afternoon Heather and my neighbor kids played ball outside, laughing all the while. She put music on Abdoul's new MP3 player and showed him how to operate it.

We quickly got into the task of giving away most things in my house to my neighbors and friends. I let most of the women choose a garment and something from my cooking supplies and staples. The kids all got shirts or games or hair adornments. Word spread fast and we had a long line of folks at the door.

Later in the afternoon the medical staff from the clinic arrived bearing a gift for me and I was in tears as I opened the sack with a two foot tall leather giraffe, perfectly formed with all the prominences of bones and muscles. Wow! The head nurse, Philippe and Abdoulaye, a medical board member, thanked me for all my work and talks with villagers in this Sala health district. And I thanked them for being patient with me and my limited language. I will have no problem remembering Sala and all villagers I met during my stay.

We continued packing some things and giving away most, then suddenly the yard was full of people, the village chef, the two family chefs, the COGES member, soccer president, teachers from the school, the pharmacist, Minata, and Madi to translate for me. The chef thanked me for my service to Sala, that I had touched many lives. Salame thanked me for working hard and treating everyone well. All the people are thanking you he said.

Hamadou said as second family chef in line behind Salame he wanted to thank me for my work and generosity with all the neighbors. He was so moved. Minata talked lovingly a long time about my time there. Next came a photo shoot. Finally we shared the big meal they all brought for the occasion. It was long after dark when we finished packing.

The next morning by 6am three days before Christmas we got ready to leave and there were dozens of neighbors outside to say goodbye. It was a bittersweet moment for all. The bush taxi kindly met us at the foot of my hill to load our bags. Jonathan, my nearest PCV (24yrs old) was waiting at Thyou when we got there to pick up passengers. He said “I am so inspired by you and how you put your heart into Peace Corps working with the people of all ages. Whatever obstacles you feel were in your way, you did a tremendous service and on behalf of HUMANITY, I want to thank you for that.” He left me in tears, to go teach his students who were waiting.

In Ouaga we caught a green taxi with all our luggage and bikes etc for the Peace Corps Bureau. The driver said his clutch was out, so we lurched ahead continually after each stop. Oh the memories!

The next day we flew to Kenya for a week on safari in East Africa.

On New Year's Day three of us went by bus to OHG to bid my host family during training goodbye. The driver let us off by the sign to Somyaga and soon Amade' came on his moto to pick us up. What a welcome, Ramata and Minata, grandma Awa, Alizetta and other gramma were there. All the kids ran to meet us, and had grown so much in the year since I had seen them. Of course they fed us right away and then in the afternoon Orokia came home—oh what a feast for my soul. Amade' butchered a chicken in honor of the visit. The women prepared it and potatoes for dinner. We had lollipops for the kids and gave my Cutco knife she always admired to Orokia. At 10 that evening 30 of the women from around came to the courtyard to chant and dance together, just like when I lived there. Oh la la! I heard my name in the chant. It was so much fun to be in their midst again.

The early morning of departure, 6 family members walked us out to the highway to catch the bus back to Ouaga. The morning walk in the moonlight was outstanding and memorable.

On the evening of January 3, 2010 Sanfo drove us to the airport and we said goodbye to our friends and flew overnight to Paris. I looked down on my beloved Burkina Faso with love, thanking God for bringing me here.

First two weeks in November 2009

Monday morning I went to the clinic and greeted the staff and saw many patients there. The Major arrived to greet the Medical Chief of District, who drove here from Sapouy with an assistant. They were there to collect the immunization statistics from the Tetanus Campaign over the past weekend. A long discussion ensued about the specifics especially from the satellite villages. The head nurse, Philippe hastened to respond to all questions. In 20 minutes the officials left with the data. Health care in Burkina Faso has local controls, with the caveat that the numbers are gathered by the state for planning and analysis.

The next day I sorted the student letters from USA into three piles and delivered them. I went to the school in Sala and gave Zongo Tanga the letters and drawings in order for his class to write to the sixth graders at Harmony Elementary. By noon we delivered a set to L'ecole Centre and Yargo, schools in Thyou. We returned to Sala clinic to discuss with the Major the wish list of medical supplies for the health center, as Angie's hospital(SWWMC) offered to donate. She will bring them when she comes to visit the end of this month. The Major invited us to lunch on spaghetti with pintade and yogurt with him It was very good.

The chef of Sune' had sent a rooster to us in appreciation of the HIV-AIDS talk there. My neighbor boy, Abdoulaye came in the afternoon to prepare the fowl for me. I fried it and basted it with barbecue sauce. I made baking powder biscuits and cole slaw to have dinner ready when Jonathan came in the evening with his guitar and his contribution of chili. Abdoulaye and Issouf, his students, Jonathan and I enjoyed the meal. Afterwards Jon began playing and singing; suddenly the neighbor children came in large numbers to my house for the jam session. I recorded it plus took pictures.

At the maternity unit after baby weighing that week we presented the final talk on prenatal care. I felt several babies were very hot, so the staff sent those mothers and infants to the clinic for exam. The talk was “Post Partum Visit and Signs of PP Infection”. 30-35 women attended. Both nurses, Emilie and Bibata supplemented what we explained and some women engaged in question/answer discussion. My friend Atia from Zao, a small village 15K away, came to visit me and waited for our presentation to finish. We went to my home to chat. I provided her with some supplies she needs before we went to the market.

On Friday I noticed some neighbor kids were at home rather than in school. Hamadou, family chef, said they were sent home by the principal due to unpaid tuition. There were five in all, and the cost per school year is 4.5 mille, about $5. On my way to the bush taxi station to check on my pkg many kids came up to talk with me, sang the song of brushing the teeth. They were in front of the new boutique building nearby and we sang and took photos.

On Saturday I shared the medical evaluation report on Seni Pele' with both the Major and Gilbert, a medical staff with a similar leg mobility problem as Pele'. Gilbert said that since his own surgery which straightened his leg, he now gets around on crutches and his three wheel moto very well. In fact I have marveled at his adaptation skills as he administers medical IVs, injections, and other medical procedures to clients at the clinic. Plus he's a poster person for polio vaccinations.

The next Tuesday at the school hangar in Bouyou, we conducted a hygiene lesson with 60 young school children. This year the hangar has new sides on the structure. The director and students were waiting for our arrival 11K into the bush. As we set up our posters and materials, the director had the children sing the chant we taught them last time. We took time talking with them about the benefits of good dental care and diet. They were very attentive as we demonstrated teeth brushing with natural and modern means. Then 8 volunteers repeated the demonstration well, although one girl's gums bled badly. I brought a new toothbrush for each student and also photos from our last time there. Nebie' Amie, a health liaison in village came to greet us and wondered if we would be presenting to the adults. We stopped by THE village tree where folks gather and greeted the handful of people who were there. They insisted we come back in the future to visit. What a special village this is! On our way home we stopped at the neighboring village school to leave more student letters and visit the staff there.

This week little Sofi, 6, has an infected gouge in her shin from falling off a bike, so we soaked it and applied an ointment and bandage. It took nearly a week to see healing, with time to put her foot up and rest.

On Wednesday I went to water the trees at the school garden. My counterpart Karim had dug holes for more planting, so the students helped me out with watering and planting. He had replaced several fence posts. We had wire to tie the fence to the posts, which is a must with cattle roaming around.

Before I left for Ouaga, Minata showed me how to make porridge, using millet. I practiced with adding Moringa powder to the millet to enrich it for malnourished infants.

Social Services in Burkina Faso

An overview of social welfare in Burkina Faso suggests that it is in early developing stages or there is within the Burkinabe' culture built in responses to the identified needs of the society. This raises the question: Is aiding the disadvantaged the responsibility of a culture's people or of their government, or some other entity?

The health system in Burkina Faso, for more than 15 years, has been striving to improve maternal health by encouraging prenatal care and birthing to occur at local health centers. In these centers many problems can be identified early and birthing risks reduced for both mother and infant. In the same vein immunizations, and early diagnoses of malaria, HIV-AIDS, elephantiasis, tuberculosis are also available to villagers. Due to poverty many families can't afford to come to clinic, even though prenatal and delivery cost 800 francs ($1.50) plus medications.

The physically handicapped (young and old) are visible in every town and village on crutches, sometimes self fashioned canes, and three wheel cycles with the chain propelled by one's arms. I met a ten year old boy living in a small village, he has a severely deformed leg and hops along with the assistance of a metal rod. The doctors said his ankle was separated from his leg during his birth at home. The solution is complex, his family can't afford to travel 40 kilometers to the hospital and stay there for surgery. They also struggle with the decision of amputation and prosthesis.

Frequently if not always the elderly live out their days in the family compound, thereby warding off loneliness. Small children children guide blind adults wherever. Poor water quality can lead to vision defects especially in newborns and aging villagers. My eight year old neighbor girl has been cross-eyed since birth. According to the doctors the condition is no longer treatable. People with total hearing loss mimic sound while using very graphic gestures and body language to be understood. Sometimes their deafness is mistaken for mental illness.

The culture and the communities of Burkina Faso take care of their own. People in the village with mental health or addiction issues live among the villagers. When their condition or behaviors affect others, they often are ignored or guided away. I was attending Mass when a member of the congregation was praying loudly but not in union with the priest, who was not dissuaded by this variation. Citizens accept her as a part of the social fabric. The afflicted belong to and are treated like village brethren.

Orphans and elders are included into the midst of a family and are treated with the same respect and dignity as members of the greater family. Nearly every family raises shirttail relatives. The elderly share their oral histories with the younger generations, thus preserving tradition and stories of family, history and culture. Whatever is asked of a Burkinabe', they are bound by cultural norms to give according to their ability. Truly it takes a village to raise a child.

Hunger and poverty are widespread. Desperate people beg for help, sometimes on street corners and sometimes at the markets and sometimes on your doorstep. One day my landlady/friend came to me and said “I sent the children to work in the field with lunch of millet and sauce from last night's dinner and have nothing to eat 'myself'.”

When property crime happens in villages it seldom comes to the attention of officials. But the villagers often hold the thief accountable. All news spreads fast by word of mouth. As I rode my bicycle one day, my fanny pack was stolen by two motorcycle thieves. My shouting brought out the neighbors, who captured and held one thief until police arrived. The neighbors retrieved my purse and its contents intact.

As a visitor and Peace Corps Volunteer, I observed the immense harmony and integrity that binds Burkina Faso people together. There is a unique construct for social services here and it is strongly ingrained at the village level.

Early on my birthday we set out on the bush taxi for Ouaga: Pele', Mathieu, and me to get the results of the evaluation from the Handicap Organization. Georges joined us in Sabou to translate information with the medical team. I went further into Ouaga to pick up the x-rays needed for the doctor's review and joined the others at the clinic in Goughin sector.

Dr. Yago explained to us that since there is no function in Pele's right foot, the most advisable procedure is for Pele' to have his right foot amputated below the knee, with the prospect of an appliance for walking. His older brother Mathieu, asked questions and there was much discussion before the doctor wrote a prescription for surgery. The social worker said Pele' and family should travel to Koudougou for that. The X-rays and Radiologist report were given to the brothers with the plan to discuss everything with their family and make a decision. Then we went next door where they fitted Pele' for crutches. We found lunch nearby and walked a long distance back to the main route so the brothers could take the bush taxi back to village and then pedal 10K to their home.

I made a vanilla cake and purchased Nutella spread to top my birthday cake at the Transit House, where PCVs sang to me and we enjoyed a snack together. Every Friday morning early is the ceremony at Moro-Naba Castle in Ouaga. This event is presided over by the highest village chef in Burkina Faso. A beautiful and tall chestnut horse with white sox is saddled and at rest in velvet robes outside the gates of the castle. Contingents of chiefs from every sector in Ouaga participate in this weekly tradition. At precisely 8am the main chief enters in red regal robes (sign of war). The drums roll and a canon is fired. The area chiefs come forward in groups to salute the head chief, and later he leaves to change. He reappears in white robes (sign of peace). Applause erupts and the canon again fires. The reenactment of history of this region of West Africa is powerful.

On the weekend the Food Security Committee met for a marathon meeting covering gardening, past and future plans, and my presentation on nutrition, this time devoted to an example of enriched porridge (bouille) for malnourished infants. My sample however had started to ferment in the heat, much like local beer (dolo). I had planned to provide samples until that point, however two brave souls wanted to taste it irregardless. We had a good laugh! The group disbanded early due to the soccer match between BF and Malawi late that afternoon. Crazy fans were in costume there, and we PCVs were happy to see the national sport in person while still there.

On Monday I packed up to return to village with my ten packages from USA full of donations for villagers, plus box mixes for my dutch oven. I made a stop at the travel agency downtown to book airfare to Senegal when Angela arrives this coming week. I wrote a check for over one million francs, WOW! The bush taxi was late, so that put me back in village at dark. I enlisted the aid of two men, to each take 3 boxes to my house for me. Once there I sent two neighbor boys back for 2 boxes each. I was content to get all boxes home, and pass out long awaited items, soccer shoes and balls, jump ropes, lights, baking mixes, pictures, and many other things.

End of November

When I got to the Major's home to talk with him about the COGES role in the community, Gansonre was there visiting. He had been our head nurse when I arrived in village and soon became the Major for Dala, a village down the road and further SE of ours.

Zachariah had dug around all the Moringa trees and built a depression circle to retain the water. The petite forest is next door between the Major's home and the Maternity clinic. We visited the midwife, who promised to text me before the next baby is born. I so want to be present for a birth in Sala. The medical staff, Gilbert took the written translation of the last medical visit for Seni Pele to his family when he went to Dana on Friday for vaccinations.

Dicko, a school teacher and Issaka, president of the young men's soccer group, each came over for their special soccer shoes. I gave shin guards, gloves, balls, and cones for the group. They have a big game this Friday and were very happy for the contribution made possible by the generosity of Americans at home.

At the school we talked with Madelenne,the new Directress about the Moringa project there, and she agreed to have the students water the trees everyday. She also pointed out weaknesses in the fence. We showed her how the students can dig around each tree for water containment. Tanga, another teacher gave me student letters for Angela to take to America when she returns there. That gives me a chance to practice my French, translating them. I began reading my new book “The Secret Knowledge of WATER” by Craig Childs, two easy ways to die in the desert, thirst and drowning. This seems apt as Burkina is close to the Sahel, and south of the vast Sahara.

On Thursday I made my way to the Ouaga travel agency to pick up our tickets to Senegal, and also exchange dollars for francs. I took a taxi to Karite' Bleu where Angela and I will spend the night after she arrives at 6pm. My Peace Corps driver, Idrissa and his wife, Awa drove me to the airport to get Angela and her luggage, which included a giant suitcase full of medical equipment and supplies her hospital, SWWMC donated to Sala's clinic. Her USA eye doctor Cole, donated $300 for stethoscopes, blood pressure cuffs etc. too. Networking warms the heart! It was exhilarating to see my daughter after two years. At our Bed and Breakfast we ordered in a pizza, visited and slept well.

Friday we enjoyed a continental breakfast on the patio and watched the exotic pair of birds in the yard. We got Ang a loaner bike and rode to the PC bureau and meet all the staff there. I worked a bit on the computer and printed the email from Chris with a contact in Dakar who would host us for the coming week. We flew there that evening and Issa picked us up and took us to stay at his auntie's house. She's traveling abroad, so we had the house to ourselves with the housekeeper, Soulemaa (a Burkinabe'). This gave Ang the opportunity to practice Moore' greetings all week in preparation for returning to my village. We caught a cab to downtown Dakar and ran across AlaBama, who acted as our guide the rest of the day. We walked to the president's palace, watched changing of the guard, then onto a Cathedral, and finally the Sandaga market. We watched kids braid ropes out of thread on half block long-amazing! We shopped like tourists, visiting a tailor shop and ordering some items.

We saw cute mini-buses escorting people around town. Every street corner in Dakar had dozens, sometimes hundreds of sheep (goats) and we found out they were for Tabaski, a big Moslem feast on Saturday. Customarily every family buys one for the holiday meal. We lunched mid-afternoon on rice and Mafe' sauce, a meaty groundnut sauce.

Saturday evening we set out to find Senegalese drummer music, the kind Ang had experienced in New York city when she worked there as a traveling nurse. We arrived at “Just4u” to find the Orchestra Baobob playing a salsa dance rhythm, catering to my age group. Then we tried “Madison” which had lots of drumming and singing (mbalax music) for the younger crowd. Neither was quite what we were looking for. (I wasn't to find that until I returned to USA and in Seattle.)

Sunday morning while having our omelet sandwich, we observed a man harvesting leaves nearby. Then there was a horse drawn cart typical of transport of cargo within the city of Dakar.

As we photographed these, men having their morning coffee conversed with us about what's up? and Obama-always about Obama. Africans across the continent are so proud of his heritage. That afternoon Issa accompanied us to a private beach, Voille D'or, on the east side of the Dakar peninsula. We had a lovely afternoon on the Atlantic napping on mats in white sand, snacking, and swimming. We continued onto another aunt's home, Seeley, who had returned from New York this week and was happy to meet us. She supports a Senegalese restaurant in NY and her cuisine was excellent, a platter of roasted chicken and rice baked in Mave' sauce.

Tuesday we ferried over to the nearby Goree' Island, where we had a quaint French room with a balcony overlooking the cobblestone path below. We toured the house of the slaves, “Maison des Esclaves”, where 14 million slaves arrived and 6 million more died enroute due to disease and bad treatment. We viewed scales, a fattening room (69Kg minimum), 3 rooms for men, a room for children, a room for young women, punishment room (hold 2-3 men and they couldn't stand erect), and waiting rooms on two corridors. There was an opening called “Gate of No Return” on the ocean side, where the slaves boarded the ships, with a plank extended to enter the ship. Our guide took us to the Catholic Church and showed us a written apology offered to the slaves by Pope Jean Paul II posted in the sanctuary. We ate another famous Senegalese meal for dinner, Yassa Poulet, chicken with plantain sauce. Sleeping on this small island, we awoke to birds singing and church bells ringing. We walked up the hill to the Castel where a canon was perched to protect the small island. The view of Dakar was especially nice from there.

Back in the city Wednesday we dined with Brandy and her husband Herman and son, Carter. Brandy has worked in Africa four years in Cameroon, Gambia and now for a Non Governmental Organization, US Aid, coordinating a development program. Herman is a musician and three and one half year old Carter goes to International Pre-school. He speaks French with a true nasal sound already. Our mutual friend said we would enjoy the visit and we did. As we returned to the airport we noticed the traffic slowing and the crowd gathering for the visit from Iran's president. Then his motorcade passed by on the freeway going into Dakar.

People were getting ready for Tabaski, washing goats, getting new clothes and hair treatments. There was a festive atmosphere in the air. Meanwhile back in BF the Moslems celebrated a day earlier. We took a bush taxi to Sala, my village and the kids helped us up the path with the baggage. There were many neighbors waiting to meet Angela and they laughed when she greeted them in Moore'. She greeted both family chiefs and the village chief, plus the Major and midwife the next day, with token gifts for them all. We went to St Irene's Church where she greeted more people. She was fascinated by the bakery (boulangerie) and videoed the process.

We continued on to market day in Thyou and found pork sandwich on baguette for lunch. My friend Achille arrived from KDG to visit. When school was in session, Angela brought soccer balls for all the boys and jump ropes for all the girls to use together. She brought pen pal letters from USA to Sala school for the students.

Togo/Benin trip

The last days of August and first week of September I began my sojourn east from Ouaga to Koupela, then south through Tenkodogo and Bitou, arriving at the frontier (border) with Togo before noon. The STMB bus with 60+ passengers onboard were mostly headed for the capitols and coastline of these two countries. A handful of us got off midway down the length of Togo at Kara. Guys on motos were waiting to take passengers to their destinations, but one man walked me to my Hotel le Sourire. It was clean and freshly painted for 5 mille per night. A large covered and separate patio was the dining area.

Softly as if in my dream I heard women chanting Muslim prayer at 4am and Catholic church bells at 5:30. After breakfast I explored the town, walking to the bank, past the police station to the cathedral, which was set on a big track of land on the hillside. The old and modern church set beside each other. I toured the grounds and taking photos. I lunched on fry bread, filled with spaghetti, grilled corn, and for dessert Bengue', a tasty combination of yogurt, milk, sweetened petit millet with ice cubes.

Tuesday morning I took a taxi to Tamberma Valley, where since the 17th century this tribe has lived in fortified round houses called tatas, which have one entrance, so as to trap visitors/enemies once inside. This warded off the slave grabbers. Interestingly the structures are made from clay, wood and straw, so tools weren't necessary. Under the cone shaped thatch roof, grains are stored. Fetish and animal bones line the inside walls. The villagers come out of the hillside huts anxious for visitors, old women smoking pipes and men wearing hats with horns. We visited a Baobob tree, said to be 2000 years old, so big that there was a chamber inside with daylight beaming down through its belly. Early on, animist sacrifices occurred here.. An agile person can climb up the inside walls. See photos.

At another place in the valley an old woman was spinning cotton. She let me try it, and I could tell it requires lots of practice to do well. She had an penny-sized chin hole below her lip which she stuck the tip of her tongue through and then giggled. The men had made arrowheads with threatening points on either side of the sharp tip. Quivers and bows were also homemade. We tried their millet beer, Tchoukoutou. Back in Kara at the marche' I found Togolese music to add to my collection of African music.

Wednesday was a long day of bush taxis, already full when I came along to squish in. When we got to Togo/Benin border there was a big hassle with drivers wanting our business. Some of us walked to the border which was in sight. We lunched under a big tree waiting for a bush taxi. The one that gave us a ride broke down many times, and the driver sucked water out of the distributor carburetor area. The fumes were bad, but the road was worse. The 30-40K took two hours and twice we had to get gas. At the roundabout in Benin where the road met the highway to Natitengou, we caught yet another taxi 85K to the north and our destination. We walked up the east hillside to our accommodations, Auberge de vieux Cavelier, where we found chicken, riz gras, and Beninaise beer.

Thursday I got a hold of Yesenia, my Benin PC friend, who invited me to her village 15K away that afternoon. At Tanquieta station I hired a driver who knew Yesenia and her village. Along the way I couldn't help thinking how much like the Columbia Gorge it looked there, green trees overhanging a steep gorge, and plush lowlands. We walked along several fields to Yesenia's house, past a farmer cultivating his field, and past a Baobob tree with fetishes hanging from its massive trunk. Shortly she returned on a moto with her friend, the animator. We sat on her veranda and ate bananas and drank water, chatting the whole time about COS and her project, timed irrigation for vegetable garden. It was fun to compare notes on our lives in separate Peace Corps countries.

Friday morning our guide through the Pendjari National Park came early, as I realized Benin time was an hour ahead of BF time. He drove to Tanquieta then east 45K to the park entrance. There the driver Alassine, put a seat on the top of the 4X4, like an African safari. We sat up there the duration, bouncing around when we hit chuckholes in the road. The rains had puddled water and creeks everywhere. We saw monkeys, coq du boufond and many birds, but no large animals. They most often come down during the dry season. We came to a stream swollen into a lake that was a dead end for us. Luckily we caravaned with another vehicle which helped us out when our rig got stuck in a creek. Next we drove to the cascades, water falling in sheets over huge ancient slabs of stone. Boys had crafted fishing poles and were hooking the fish from the pools of water. See photos.

On return to Tanquieta I arranged for a bush taxi to Fada in eastern BF early the next morning. The driver agreed to pick me up at the hotel by 4am. We drove north to BF watching the sunrise come over the mountains in the east. The hilly terrain changed once we got into BF. Since the warnings about floods alert came this week, we decided to continue onto Ouaga. On the outskirts of the capitol we saw evidence, water up to the road on either side. Inside the eastern sector we saw one city block flattened. People were said to be housed in the local schools and churches.

I stayed the weekend in Ouaga. I got a batch of pictures into the Close of Service folder for Emily to use in putting together a slide show for our Close of Service party the next week. Driver Michelle drove me from TH to the bush taxi, but Bouba did not come today, so we went over to the Car Cellular place to find the car that goes to Leo, 90K past my village. It stopped on the outskirts of Ouaga for over an hour. See photo of woman braiding.

By the time I got home that evening, Lorraine called me and without missing a beat we ole' friends picked up the last conversation. She's excited about their Greek cruise with another side trip to spend time in Tuscany and Rome.

When I spoke to the Major he told me the rains flooded the road near Dana waist high, and I needed to postpone our HIV-AIDS talk in Sune', a village 14K past Dana in the bush. So my plan B was a sensibilisation with the women after the Thursday morning baby weighing time, continuing my talks about prenatal health care. The accoucheuse, Albertine was fine with that, as she was passing out mosquito nets to the women who had infants under one year old and there would be a big group to train. In the afternoon at the marche' I was able to discuss with Jonathan the reason he and I will postpone the AIDS talk. We had pork sandwich together and caught up on PC news before I shopped for veggies.

Thursday we did the second sensibilisation with the women about not working so hard during pregnancy and having the men carry the wood and help with the field work. We emphasized their need for extra rest for both herself and the fetus. Albertine added that she aids the women with medicine and information at prenatal visits. It is a good time for the husband to come too so she can answer his questions. She said the government pays her to help the people and they need to come. After our talk, the midwife passed out “Plumpy Nut” and vitamins for malnourished infants. By weighing and measuring the babies and using those numbers on the grid, some fall into this category.

When I inquired about the woman in labor, Albertine said she's referred her to KDG hospital to aid in delivering an unborn, deceased baby. The depressed woman refuses to leave the clinic and relatives/visitors were trying to persuade her to go.

I asked Laurentine to prepare the chicken Jean Baptiste gave me for dinner. Meanwhile I made cole slaw and baked biscuits in my dutch oven to bring to the table. By the time I got to their home, Laurentine was mashing garlic, frying it with onions and tomato paste and oil for sauce to cover the cooked chicken. She prepared rice with sombala and piment. What a terrific cook!

Adama, my neighbor teenager, came with me to the school garden to weed the Moringa trees. We worked together an hour or more. Then he filled my large water bidon from many trips to the well. I worked on preparing spaghetti dinner for my neighbors that evening when they returned from the fields. I made biscuits again, cole slaw and sauce for the spaghetti and four bags of pasta. 16 showed up for dinner.

Next day I visited with the Major at the clinic to tell him I have Close of Service Conference in Ouaga this week. He told me he delivered the 20 Moringa trees to Bansmnore and they are all planted and doing OK. In the afternoon I went to two other compounds near me and distributed Moringa trees. I got ankle deep in water enroute but returned on another dry path. Zenabou and I sowed five dozen more seeds to sprout while I am gone. When I took the bush taxi we got a flat tire by Kokologo, and had a 30 minute wait for repair.(See photo.) Becky texted me and said we are lodged at ODE during the conference, a new place for me. We went to the kickoff dinner at “Mystique”, a French restaurant in downtown Ouaga. Excellent cuisine!

The sessions this week were carefully crafted for the PCVs who will return home for Masters degrees or to hunt jobs, so I was able to skip some. I attended the medical session about the physical exam before we go home. And I attended one on job interviews that Ellie thought I could lend experience to. A panel of ex volunteers talked one morning and that was fascinating. The country director had us all over to his place for a hamburger barbecue the second evening. Dr Claude led the final session on separating and reintegrating into American life. Saying goodbye to village is very difficult, think about it and do it over the last month, she advised. Give ourselves time to reenter life at home.

On 17 September 2009 I received a grandma call from Shawn and Jodi that their baby was born this morning. BoBrazon came feet first into this world weighing 8 pounds. “He is a beauty!” they said. Everyone is excited! Dieu est grand!

Friday and Saturday were filled with shopping, using internet and working on Moringa stuff. Then we all got dressed up for the Close of Service party held on the rooftop garden-patio of a new international school/residence. The hosts were very accommodating and friendly to us. !0 PCVs put on a synchronized dance, which was adorable and fast. Drinks and hor d'oeuvre were served. A video of our group working, living and playing in Burkina Faso was shown with music. Lots of memories and chatting, then dinner was served.

Unfortunately I got sick with a temperature and had to excuse myself to the med unit. Sylvie said often volunteers get sick from eating street food in Ouaga. She put me on an antibiotic and in two days I felt fine. Andrea and I ate dinner while we watched Tom Hanks as a PCV in Thailand entitled “Volunteer”. On Wednesday Ousmane drove me back to village. I asked about Fr/Eng dictionary and a broom to take back so he was on a mission to find them for me and did! We dropped off Jonathan's packages in Thyou and then up the hill to my house in Sala, where Ousmane greeted everyone before he left. It was sooo hot, I slept on the porch for comfort.

Last week of September

On Thursday I went to the maternite' for weighing the babies and doing a talk with the women on “Anemia and Pre-eclampsia”. 40 women were in attendance with their babies. We discuss the symptoms of swollen feet and face, and the need to go to the clinic for help. The young nurse Emilie interjected that it's treatable during pregnancy, but more difficult if the woman only comes to clinic for delivery. Often the medical staff have to send the woman to hospital for caesarian. I gave two mosquito nets to the women who were most involved in the questions/answer period.

At market the vendors lay out a big tarp and dump a pile of donated clothes from America and elsewhere for all the shoppers to sort through for their new items. I found a few new things for the neighbor kids to start school with. I found my friend Cyrille, who has been treated and is recovering from malaria this week. Robert and Constant are also there to talk with. We went to the Kiemtore' family home to visit Maxime, who is going back to Bobo to seminary in the morning. We discuss his ordination next July and his wish to have his premiere Mass at St. Irene' Parish in Thyou. But his family is not able to foot the expense of the entire celebration. He plans to have a discussion with the church board at Christmastime when he returns home on his next break.

I made a batch of oatmeal raisin cookies to bake in my dutch oven, while Sanata and Madi watched. I explained that tea and cookies are good together. When Issa and Madi made their Burkinabe' tea they made me some sans sugar. I was able to pass out 2-3 cookies to each of the neighbor kids. I donated a few school supplies to Sanata and little Adama, both are going away this week to school. I spent the afternoon redoing my bulletin board, a source of attraction to all the neighborhood. So I grouped the photos under three headings: My American Family, My Host Family in OHG, and My Sala Family. The kids love to stand there and find themselves in the photos. I was able to add our new baby, BoBrazon to the American group.

Saturday morning I had help inflating the big red exercise ball Angie sent me for my back and sciatic nerve. For over three hours the neighbor kids played on it on my porch. I read an interesting mystery book entitled “The Name of the Rose” about a twelfth century Franciscan Abbey in Italy, where a number of monks went missing and were murdered over access to books and manuscripts in the library.

I love the luxury of time to read. Due to the hot weather, I slept outside on the porch most of the week.

I took Zenabou to church with me, which she loves to do. Because Fr. Thomas came to hear confessions and say Mass, the congregation overflowed into the second hangar nearby. A young man gave us his bench there. Afterwards we went to the market, stopping by the bakery for 6 warm French bread. Zenabou tries on clothes at the market and finds some to her liking. Constant goes with her to pay the 1500 francs to the vendor. The tailor repaired my backpack by handand only charged a couple hundred francs. When we get back home, I give the little girls each a pair of flip flops, and Zenabou shows off her new clothes funded by Angie. When Abdoulaye comes to visit, I invite him to visit me in America after he finishes his CEG (college, which is actually secondary school). He has mixed reaction, happy at the idea, sad that he has no money. I suggest he talk it over with his family.

That Monday Marie and her son Claude from church came for a visit, and I invited Georges to come and translate for the two of us. Marie said Jean Baptiste just told her this morning to come for a visit, as he promised to send her. She went too far past Sala before asking directions to my house. I make peanut butter cookies and give all the kids some, then I make tuna sandwich for my guests, always a hit with the Burkinabe'. Meanwhile there is activity going on outside my house that I am not aware of. The village chef comes over to tell us that my neighbor, Sanata's baby has died. I discover later that the baby gets buried at noon behind our compound and close to where Alizetta lives. That afternoon after my company leaves, I decide to try and visit Sanata, who is sitting in Kontim's hut alone. Other women are nearby in the courtyard. I sit with her awhile to give my condolences. Her heart is heavy and her breasts are full!

On Tuesday I practice for the talk Thursday at the maternite' on false labor, miscarriage and birthing. When George comes for lesson, his nephew Alexis came along to phone his father in Kokologo about tuition (25 mille) for a year of school in Thyou. Madi is going to OUA this week to register for University and pay 20 mille fee to enroll. He will try and find housing too. Then Karim and Saidou (major's son) come to visit. I take Saidou's number as he leaves tomorrow for school in KDG. I will call him when the photos from his brother's wedding feast come, as there is a good one of him.

I got my activity reports ready for the Major to take to Sapouy to the Medical Director of our area. While there I survey the Moringa Project both at the maternite' and at the school. The trees are dry and turning yellow. Rasmata helps me water the ones by the Major's house, and Karim helps me with the ones at the school.

I stop by the soccer field on the way home and the young men are out there running their legs off! I visit Issaka briefly and his shoes are in shreds. I note his size 43 with the hope of replacing them. Africa is very hard on feet, I soak mine somethimes and they are happy. Karite' butter works the best on the cracks from dryness.

First two weeks of October

On Thursdays I did presentation to the women who bring their babies to be weighed. The lesson was on false labor, miscarriage and birthing process. Between 45-60 women filled the waiting room area, the hallway, and some out on the porch to listen, each with a baby. We encouraged the women to come to the clinic at the earliest sign of problem to consult medical staff for solution and avoid further complications. The accoucheuse said it is also problem if the labor takes a long time and they need help. The women responded more come to clinic than stay home for birth. The accoucheuse finished by asking them to bring 800 francs for delivery when they come in. She added that if their husband has questions about sexual relations to bring him in for discussion with the couple and midwife.

October turned hot early on and I slept outside most nights. When I prepared my tent one night the sky lit up with lightening. It was a dazzling spectacle that I tried to capture in pictures. Ousmane indicated I was attracting the lightening and that was very dangerous, so respectfully I ceased my activity.

The Polio Campaign commenced for three days over the weekend with door to door visits. On my bike I met up with the vaccination team walking not very far west of the main route. We visited many homes, and witnessed harvesting, pounding the millet, and drying the stalks. At one house Gilbert plays with the baby, kissing it. (See photo.) At another the people show off their white furry dog. They give us dried ears of maise, which we hang off my bike. We walk all morning covering long distance in the heat and drinking much water along the way. We ask for all the preschoolers in each compound and give them the polio drops, marking those vaccinated on the wall and tagging each child's finger.

The second day I find the team close to Ipala compound, Albertine on foot and Gilbert with a flat tire on his moto, which he goes off to repair.. He is happy to see me, because I can take his spot. I join Albertine the rest of the morning going west deeper into the bush. We visit many people, some working on harvest and chucking maise or weaving panniers. We note the calabash vines covering huts and granary At one place Albertine shows me a very malnourished child who needs to go to CREN. An eight year old girl was carrying the baby. She said her mom was at home and they have no money. At Odeille's home, she gave us citron, another gave us maise and another, peanuts .before we headed home past the barrage.

Sunday morning I sprayed a insecticide solution called Rambo on all the Moringa trees at home, at CSPS and at the school garden. That day I also took photos of how tall the millet and maise grew this season next to our house a short while the children harvested all of the corn and took the stocks down too for animal food in the future.

I prepared beans and rice to have inside the tortillas I was serving my neighbor kids that night, along with cole slaw and oatmeal cookies. I had Minata make citronade for dinner. Another taco fest, thanks to Chris. We sent food over to the adults at home, but the kids came over to fill up at my place. They each had 3-4 burritos.

That first week I paid school fees for Alima to attend this year, 1,250 francs (about 3 dollars). Hamadou asked for help paying for 3 of his children Emma, Sadia, and Moussa. I found Fati on the playground and she provided her mother's family name to register Alima. My Moringa counterpart Karim was there to assist with watering the trees at school.

Within a week I invited Jonathan to come have a Taco Fest with my neighbors and some friends at my house. I requested he bring his guitar and play for us. Jon is Garrett's replacement, a PCV teacher in Thyou. He hales from Chicago area and told me his gramma wanted to do Peace Corps. After eating Jonathan picked up his guitar and played and sang and whistled. The sound drew the other neighbor children into my house and soon it was overflowing. They kept time to the beat and engaged more as the rhythm and music got faster. We went on until 9pm and was a big hit!

The next four days I went to OUA to work on my quarterly report and get my blog done and onto internet. When I arrived at PCB I met with Doug, Country Director and Dr. Claude, Health Sector Director and we discussed my schedule for ending PC service on a high note, considering everything. I had wanted to extend 3 months, but the heat was discouraging that idea. I will end on 17 December. It felt like a roller coaster ride that day, when I opened my email and found a request from Yvonne Recchia. She wrote that inspired by my PC service, she applied for a social work position in England and asked if I could give a work recommendation. I was only too happy to respond.

I worked on the job reference and my reports pretty intensely over the next few days. When I came outside I discovered a rainstorm with much thunder one evening. The guard advised I wait, so I read my book. Then another guard was ending his shift and leaving for home, when he offered to accompany me to the Transit House. People here extend themselves for PCVs and visitors. When Angie called me to plan her visit here, she said Cliff was pulling his pickup truck and trailer rig into the driveway, where the kids had been playing, when a speeding sports car hit his trailer and careened off nearly hitting a big tree. Luckily no one was hurt.

One day I had free time, so I planned to go downtown and visit the French Cultural Center, Biafca (bookstore), and Marina Market. I ate lunch at L'eau Vive, a place run by the Carmelite Missionaries. They specialize in French food. Salad D'avocate and Escalope de porc panee was my order and it was good. I met a young man Karim with a gentle persona, who showed me around and carried my bag. The vendors are less tenacious when a local is with me.

In the evening PCV Josh and I visited with Ansel, our driver to Zinaire Zoo last month. We had a nice chat and he invited us to his home whenever we are in Ouaga. His wife just finished veterinarian school. We will try to get Christina to join us.

Near the PCB is the Handicap International Inc. office. I stopped by to discuss the crippled 10 yr old in my area who needs appliance for his right leg. The staff were helpful in providing resource information about orthopedic assessment every Tues and Thurs in Goughin sector. It will take some coordinating to get there.

When I arrived in village the Major and Dicko Ousmane both helped get me and my stuff up the hill and home. I visited around in my compound greeting all the women, Yvette, Sampoko, Dougouma, and Alizetta. Zenabou brought over delicious benga for my dinner. Abdoulaye and Karim looked at my youth magazine. Quiet evening until the weather changed to wind and rain.

Thursday I was at clinic for baby weighing by 8am and throughout the morning we weighed 52 babies. By 10:30 we started our talk on Soutien (Care) after Delivery. Over forty women were there. It was National Handwashing Day, so we talked about the universal precaution and value of washing hands with soap routinely throughout the day. Twelve ladies volunteered in pairs to demonstrate proper handwashing. The caveat for them was the ball of soap I gave each one for participating. It proved to be a good lesson.

The last two weeks of October

I spoke to both Angela and Heather about my new end date for Peace Corps service. They both thought they could move up their dates to come visit mom in Africa. Ang wants to visit Senegal while she's here, and Heather and I will travel to Kenya at the end of my service. They are checking prices and schedules to accomplish this.

We worked on the garden at the school to water all the trees and replant five of them. All the teachers were under the trees and offered to get students to help water and replant. Karim came to help dig holes in the very hard soil. The boys helped with this and also we saw that the beef had tore the fence down. We agreed to repair the fence next week.

The choral competition between all the parishes was a Saturday night performance at St. Luc's in Sabou. I packed up to go spend the night with the sisters at the CREN and attend the event. For two hours the choral groups sang, drummers drummed and theater folks put on skits. I taped some of it. The place was packed. The next morning we went to Mass at St. Luc's and I tried to tape the singing. We went to the market afterwards, so that I could see Yvette, my friend who moved there from Thyou. She continues her specialty, making dolo for the market there as she did in Thyou. She greeted me eagerly and we visited. Laurentine and I went to find pork sandwich but settled for chicken, which was very good.

I was bothered by the heat and returned to the CREN to nap. Sr. Mary shared an experience she had with a 2 day old baby, whose mother died. His grandmother brought him to the CREN from a remote village, because he was losing weight and malnourished. Sr. Mary said she baptized and named the baby and he began his recovery. A friend of the grandmother's acted as a surrogate relative and the baby, Francais recovered miraculously. Sr. Mary's faith is profound!

I arranged for a tour of the CRE N on October 31 for our midwife at Sala. She makes referrals there and it will help her explain to the families what to expect. Early in the week the nurse Philippe went to Sune' for vaccinations and he talked with the chef there about our HIV talk planned for Thursday that week. We had to take Georges moto to get a new chain and sprocket set in order to make the 24K trip. He used my bike two days while mechanic worked on his moto.

I went to Thyou to the bakery for bread one day and the baker was gone, so I hung out with two older women across the main route, who were pulling peanuts off their plants. They allowed me to participate. (See photos.)

When Karim came to visit we walked to school to regard the broken fence posts. We patched it until Wednesday when we will fix it. The neighbor women came for coffee and they shared stories with me of how many women in our compound had lost a baby. A large sad number....

Ali, then little Karim came over to color. They each have an ear infection, so I gave them a non-aspirin and antihistamine. Alima came over for 200 francs she needs for school supplies. I made pizza for dinner, which I'm doing better at now. I really like using the dutch oven for variety in meals. When I made oatmeal and raisin cookies that week, Sakinata was watching me, fascinated with the process.

On the way to repair the fence with Karim, I dropped off balls of soap and the list of women who participated in our handwashing demo last week. Albertine will distribute them this week, as I will be gone to Sune'. Karim and I spent 2 hours working on fence and watering trees at the school. He dug holes one foot deep each for 4 posts he made. Then we tied the fence to the posts with wire I had. The older girls at school watered all the Moringa trees. Jonathan came by to practice our presentation for Thursday. Afterwards we walked the two compounds to meet the neighbors and Hamadou offered us dolo. He told Jon he heard him play the guitar at my house last time and enjoyed it.

Thursday morning we got our things together for sensibilisation, so that when PCV Jonathan came, we were ready to make the 24K trip to Sune'. We arrived there at noon, and the chef greeted us. We waited an hour under the big tree, where an old model A carcass rests. Some men were napping and the women were frying haricot balls in hot oil. When enough crowd gathered, we began the HIV-AIDS talk and condom demonstration using an ear of corn as a prop. For our first presentation together Jonathan and I were satisfied. Georges of course translated everything into Moore' for the villagers. At the conclusion the chef asked us to wait as he had something for us. Apparently the chicken got away, so we received this gift a week later from the village of Sune'.

On our way back to village that day, we stopped at Dana 10K away to speak to Seni Pele' and his grand brother about an evaluation of his twisted leg. The family agreed to the appointment. The school director will communicate with the family anything I need to text them about.

One of the joys for me has been to give photographs to villagers. Aminata, Ousmane's second wife, was pleased when I gave her a framed family photo, which she hung immediately in her newly constructed hut. She asked me for a solar light, which I was happy to give her.

October is the month of the Rosary and the Christian villagers gather under a tree in a clearing to pray the rosary. I went there one afternoon before dinnertime and joined in as different ones each said a decade of the rosary surrounded by nature.

Overnight thieves broke into Minata's house and ransacked it looking for money. They were even in her room searching, but she didn't wake up. Thank God the children were safe. No one woke up. Hamadou lost his phone to them. I had locked my door the last two nights, so was untouched by the scoundrels. Later I heard from the pharmacist that a woman recently from France was also robbed that night. They clearly were looking at foreigners I believe. When I opened my door the following morning I saw the courtyard full of people, even the village chef, all worried about the intruder.

I pedaled to Sabou, 15K away in about 1.5 hrs and caught a bush taxi to Koudougou. The chauffeur stopped at a school and picked up a load of pipes to transport to town. My friend Achille met me in KDG and got me and my things to a room in the petite seminary for the weekend. We went to the market and found Joseph, who parked our bikes in his lot. I gave him a photo of he and Georges, schoolmates from seminary days. We shopped at the market awhile. We went on to visit Odeille, Achille's big sister and her three sons at her home. She gave me a bag of peanuts and a photo. After a couple hours on the internet, we found “Marquis la Restaurante a Cote”, owned by another relative. We had brouchettes and riz gras with our drinks.

On Sunday we found that it was holiday at the seminary, which means no Mass, so we rode up to Burkina Parish for Mass, which I recorded. The choral voices were angelic. The pastor I had met at Fr. Frederick's 20th Anniversary Mass at Thyou. In the afternoon we looked at a series of Benin/Togo trip pictures and then I took a nap. When we got back together later, Achille took me to get a watermelon to give his mother and sister, Emilie and we visited Seraphim at a restaurant where he was chatting with his friends. They gave me all the information on BF documents required for passports.

Next we motoed to a small village 10K from KDG and met his father's big sister. They were very happy to meet an American. In generous fashion they also gave me two bags of freshly harvested peanuts. Achillle bought me a connection for the outlet so I could charge my laptop, which took an hour. Then we checked out of the Notre Dame petite seminary and returned to the internet at the post office. We got an American hamburger, Achille's first at the Wend-Kuni restaurant near the bush taxi place, while we waited for my ride home. George met me and we pedaled towards Sala, when Bouba came along in Air Thyou and gave me a free ride. At Sala two young men helped me up the hill to my house. It was good to be there.

I went to the clinic on Tuesday morning and saw four people on drip feed for malaria. One of them is Alizetta, one of my favorite neighbor women, the one who was honored for completing her course in the Koran recently. Her adult daughters and their babies were there, as well as her husband, who lives in Thyou. He has the high cheekbones I've seen in many of their children. (See photos.)

I discussed with the Major my plans to take Pele' Seni to OUA for evaluation of his leg. He said there is a facility in KDG too, but I responded the transportation there is more difficult. The Major also mentioned the 4 day Tetanus Campaign starting Thursday. That would be the day we take Seni to OUA. When I got to market that afternoon, I ordered pork sandwich from Jean Baptiste oven and the whistler came by and shared with me. Later Juliette, wife of Bado gave me dolo and practiced reading English from my Oliver Twist book. She hadn't done that since her schooldays.

We called the Orthopedic Clinic two times and finally were told to come the next day as the doctor would be in following surgery. We sent MSG to family via the Dana school director. Wednesday evening as arranged Seni Pele and his much older brother arrived. I was glad Georges was here to translate with them, because I think 10 year old Pele was a little afraid, but Mathieu expressed how grateful the family is for this evaluation. We were able also to get the family names correct, father and mother. Seni is the youngest of five children. Mathieu returned from Cote d'Ivoire when he was born to assist his parents. He told us the malformation occurred after Seni's birth and they enlisted traditional medicine for help, but......

When the two men had left, I tried to entertain Seni,. We sat outside and many neighbors came over to meet him. Through dinner and playing, Abdoulaye come over to talk with him. He said the boy speaks Garounsi, close to Moore' but not exactly the same. He liked coloring, so I gave him a book and colors to take home later. He slept on the lipicot for the night. In the morning Abdoulaye rode Seni on his bike to the bush taxi, as it was on his way to school. I followed to the station, where there was a huge gathering of Muslims, lots of chairs and motos. Our bush taxi left on time and in Sabou, George joined us to help with the translation in OUA at the Handicap Clinic in Goughin district. We waited until noon to get seen by the team of specialists. They stood Pele on the table to look at the movement in his right leg and foot. Pele could wiggle his toes, barely. The doctor assessed that Pele had a clean break in the ankle area of his leg at or after birth and the bones didn't align to heal.

Dr. ordered X-rays, called the clinic to confirm and wrote “Urgent” on the referral. He said to come back later for consultation. For the next hour we walked, first out to the main route to catch a taxi to Centerville, and then from the wrong x-ray clinic to the correct one, close to our bush taxi. Poor Pele' was fatigued by all that exercise. The clinic as most businesses in BF was closed for repose until 1500h. They took 3 views, which the technician took across the hall for the radiologist to see. That doctor said that the break was clean (through) and the bones were not properly set. He ventured that Pele' was probably born normal and then the break occurred. He emphasized that we need to return to the orthopedic clinic for consultation on next step. The clinic wanted 15 mille per x-ray, of which I could give 5 mille down, and pay the rest when we pick up the x-rays for next appt.

The ride home was an adventure. Bouba had left typically at 1430h and we went to Car Cellulaire to find it was also gone. Then we got a cab to a place called ONEA on the main route to Bobo (our direction) and waited hoping to catch a bus. Most other bush taxis and buses were full, finally BIT stopped and wanted 1500 francs per person. Georges was negotiating the price and then I said it's getting dark out and told the man that a child should only be 1 mille at most. He let us on for 4 mille. We went not far at all, when the bus stopped and all the men got out to pray for an hour before it continued. We arrived at 20h at Sabou and had coffee hoping to see a bush taxi going our way. A huge camion (cattle truck) was idling there while the driver was eating. The driver planned to stay the night there and drive to Thyou market in the morning to pick up cattle. For 1500 mille he said he would take us this evening. He put Pele' and me up in the cab and Georges and his bike in the trailer. In 15 minutes we were at Thyou. Georges went home, got his moto and took us to my house by 22h. In one day's time Pele' had for the first time ridden a bush taxi, a bus, and a camion, plus a moto. Most kids never get out of village!

The next morning Pele' sat outside waiting for his older brother to come for him. When George came over I had him write down what the doctors said, so we could give it to the family. Mathieu came and George took about an hour to explain everything and talk about our return trip on November 12, when he would need to come too. This needs to be a family decision. He will talk with the family.

We went to the market, had lunch and then I biked to the new grotto in Thyou for the rosary. Marie and little Claude each led a decade of the rosary. The next morning I checked in with Albertine, who was working on the Tetanus Vaccination Campaign in Sala. She wanted to ask the Major when she could leave with me for tour of the CREN. Karim was working on the campaign and I mentioned the falling posts at the Moringa garden at school, so we can go fix them later. At 10h Albertine was ready to go, after we got her one liter of petrol. Her moto is very comfortable and fast. At the CREN, Sister Margaret led us on the tour in French. Albertine refers many malnourished children with mothers there and it is a nice visual reminder of what they have to offer. We saw mothers and children there and met all the staff. It was a good trip.

First week July 2009

On the first I woke up to rain around 5am and it rained hard for more than an hour. When I was able to ride over to the PC bureau on my bike, Aisha, the mail clerk told me they picked up 39 boxes at the Post Office this morning and 7 of those were mine. Idrissa the driver drove me and my boxes to the taxi brousse after noon. On the way home our transport passed two petrol trucks which had crashed on the road and one rolled off, injuring the driver. The paved highways are all two lanes in Burkina Faso, and that makes safety hazardous at times. Once at the Shell station in Thyou, it took me three trips to get all the packages home.

The women and children are in the fields planting, so there's not many coming to the health center for baby weighing or anything else. We got done by 9:30 with no vaccinations needed today. At the compound the women are preparing food for Sita's relative who is here for marriage. By dinnertime in the evening many men were eating together in the courtyard to celebrate the marriage. Meanwhile the women gather in Minata's yard to eat. I never did see the couple and in fact they weren't both here.

When I opened the box Connie sent, I gave Fati her requested items, shoes, backpack, skirt and top, then invited the Major over to get the sterilizer. Over tea, we talked about it and the directions for using the pressure cooker need to be translated into French. We also discussed the district audit taking place soon, as well as the one the Peace Corps will do. I mentioned I want to teach the women how to cook with Moringa leaves.

My new friend Constant transported the gate here for the enclosure of the Moringa petite forest at the Maternite'. We had left it at the tailor's place last market until now. One morning Issa and Karim both helped me transport the gate, some wire, and new bigger poles for the fence We three worked until 11am reinforcing the poles and the fence, adding a layer for height. Karim dug holes and made a channel for the big woven gate to sit in. Now we believe the Moringa trees are safer from animals. See photos.

There was a COGES (health board) meeting one late afternoon, which Philippe ran and the accoucheuse participated in. There was a quorum of members and the discussion was about the audit and also the new residence for the head nurse and the need for more maintenance of the facility. They deferred my French report on my activities until Georges can attend and translate into Moore' for several of the board members.

With the rainy season comes higher humidity and a different feel to the heat. My midriff is sweating constantly. It feels very hot.

Father Andre' is a new priest ordained in KDG this first week of July and he says his premiere Mass at Nabatogo, with Maxime, George's brother, assisting. Yvette from our church organized a bus ride there for the women of the parish. We sang all the 25K way to that village. Each time a chant ended another choral member started a new one. It was a fun trip.

Many people circled the outside of the church, then processed down the aisles and onto the altar. Particularly colorful was the village chef in traditional hat, sword and clothes over his ordination attire. I taped the Mass, and the trilling of nearby choral member came across loud and clear. At the conclusion many people spoke, wishing Father Andre' well and presenting gifts to him. Then the congregation led by the priests danced out in similar fashion, very happy indeed!

Several of us walked over to the marche' in Nabatogo to eat our tuna sandwiches, and find dolo. Martine and Marcel, Kiemtore' relatives, had their dolo booth set up on the church grounds. We all piled back on the taxi brousse for the 5K ride to Andre's parents home where the rest of the fete would occur. We walked another kilometer past a broken bridge by their barrage, and to the family compound. Tons of people were there, in groups of singers, dancers, people visiting and/or eating. Guests of honor were under a tent at long tables to eat. Music could be heard over the loudspeakers. It was a joyous celebration! We left for home before dark, singing all the way back.

Second week of July 2009

The Major had helped me schedule a sensibilisation for students in Bonsmnore', his natal village. That morning the rain began at 8am and rained hard for three hours straight. Bonsmnore' is 8K up a dirt path, which in good weather is difficult to drive, but impossible with this weather. I text the school director on this last week of school and he invited us to come in October when school resumes.

So we went to the marche' and later Maxime text us that he wanted a family dinner to celebrate his advancement to the position of deacon in the church. We went to their parent's home and watched the food preparations, Riz Gras with gumbo and aubergine sauce, fish with onion sauce, fried chicken with tomatoes, garlic and onion sauce. They got out the boom box and church music cassettes to add to the occasion. It was a happy family celebration.

Only three women brought their babies for weighing this week plus two others came for prenatal visits. There was a family in the recovery room whose baby was born and died at home. Many people came to console them.

In the afternoon a young man helped me plant 15 trees over near the Maternite' now that our fence is secure. The Major found my watering can so we can keep them watered. I tried pumping water at the nearby pump, and found it takes practice to develop the skill. The people at the pump helped me out. Whenever I go there to weed, people come and help me too.

I invited the two new nurses for tuna sandwiches, which they enjoyed. An American meal! I gave them tank tops and we played Uno. Another evening Garrett, PCV in next village was hosting his replacement volunteer, Jonathan, a nice guy who plays the guitar and writes songs. Garrett finishes his service next month and returns to USA via Morocco.

Chris packaged up a Mexican Feast for me to host my neighbors with. I cooked up the black beans and the pinto beans along with preparing all the condiments, onions, tomatoes, and taco sauce. I had the kids learn how to say “Tortillas”, and explained this is a Mexican bread. They practiced wrapping their tortilla around a big scoop of beans. Three families came to eat, 3 women and 14 children. Everyone had from two to four burritos apiece and were quite content.

Annually at the close of school, the Sala teachers host a party for all the functionaires in village. Dicko Oussmane came by to invite me to the director's house the following Monday night right after dark. I biked there and was walking in the field towards his house when a scorpion stung me two times on my foot. That is an excruciating pain that last for upwards of four-six hours. We went to the clinic where the medical staff put ice packs on it and I took Ibuprofen, Tylenol, Benadryl, and applied hydro cortisone. But mainly I was home elevating my foot until the time passed. I had met my horoscope sign, which comes out at night! Ouch!

Mid July the auditors from DC Peace Corps arrived, a whole contingent of reviewers came and quickly spread out to the contacts they asked me to provide and interviewed all available. Reviewers spoke French as well as Moore' the local language. They talked with my Major, head of the CSPS clinic, Karim, my counterpart, Georges, my language teacher and translator, Minata, my landlady and a 13 year old student, Adama, who of course attended the sensibilisation at school. Two more school people were to be interviewed later. The goal of the audit was to determine the effectiveness of the Peace Corps program and service at the community level.

Third week of July 2009

On this week I traveled to Ouaga, because I was summoned by the police commissionaire to testify as a witness/victim of purse snatching last January and trial was set for Friday. The PC driver drove me to the police captain's office and I checked in. He said come to the Palais de Justice next morning. Congo Harouna, PC security manager and I were driven there to the huge stark courtroom, where the main judicial people were all in black robes. The judges were distinguished by their white ties. The tribunal main judges were women flanked by two male judges up on the “bench”. The prisoners, 30+ came in a blue paddy wagon with many guards with guns. The courtroom security kept saying “Turn off your portables” to the people, who were attending the hearings. The postponed case names were called first, and after a bit, Congo found the Police Commissioner Christopher only to be told our prisoner, Allasane was not in that group. Meanwhile the prosecutor spoke from left side of the bench and the defense attorney from the right side spoke for four thieves. Thirty minutes later another guy defended himself and the prosecutor became rather heated arguing with the defendant.

Congo motioned for me to come out to the lobby. The commissionaire had found out that Allasane was in court last Saturday, pled and was sentenced to two years, no time off for the 6 months awaiting court date. (Apparently the whole court system is not computerized yet.) We then went to the Magistrate's office who signed a permission slip for us to visit Allasane in prison, which is a few blocks from the Peace Corps Bureau. This magistrate's office had mounds of papers everywhere. We waited over 30 minutes for the prison to find Allasane to come talk to us.(Prison could also benefit from computerized data.) He was contrite as he told us about just meeting the ringleader two weeks before the snatching. He said the police have been looking for Sylvain for 4 years. He is very clever and keeps ahead of them. Allasane said he met another of the accomplices who was caught, and serving time, while the mastermind Sylvain got away.

Close to the omelet place on Charles de Gaulle Blvd, the police had traffic stopped this Saturday morning for a bicycle race that went whizzing by. It's amazing how fast they are! I got a cab to the Village Artisanal to try out my visa card, and they required purchase of 30 mille worth of merchandise to use a visa credit card there. I had no trouble doing that. I found a quaint little restaurant close to my Hotel Zamdogo called La Cuisine de Juliette. I can now recommend their grilled curried chicken, a welcome meal after a long day shopping.

This week I spent with Becky, the other volunteer over 40. We became fast friends during training at our host village of Somiaga during those two months. Out of 8 people placed there, we are the two remaining in Peace Corps service. When I took the taxi brousse to Gademtenga, her market town, I was welcomed by her local friends and soon Becky pedaled up to meet me. Becky's village Likink-else is 7K further and we biked and greeted people along the route. Once there we sat under the stars in her courtyard relaxing and catching up on each other's activities. Monday was a day of meeting the village chef, the Major at the health clinic, and above all Zongo, the sweet nurse who laughs a lot and likes talking with us. We spent a fair amount of time sitting under the huge Baobob tree in front of his house. His wife Awa makes fried gateau (cake) that goes nicely with coffee in the morning. The village passed the word that the Fete of Masks was starting Tuesday evening in the nearby village. Meanwhile I observed Becky teaching an English class to 8-10 girls. The mutual admiration between students and Becky is very evident as they introduced themselves to me and I to them. They sang songs and practiced family connections, using my family. Other important folks I met were Ouseni, her Moore' teacher and Gansonre', the pastor and his big family and of course Madi, the owner of the local coffee shop. That evening Zongo and his wife donated a chicken to mark my arrival in Likink-else, which they prepared in wonderful sauce along with fresh local bread.

We went to the market where I found three tank tops new to me. We visited friends and tried out the local benga and dolo.

That evening we went to the outskirts of a village, Bengado for the Fete of Masks. A crowd was gathered on a knoll around a grove of trees waiting for the masks to arrive. Out of our view inside the woods men were preparing a sacrifice (chickens). In a clearing we saw 2 or 3 masks coming across the field towards us. Becky said “Look, they're coming out!” Saidou explained the ceremony as we and thousands of others watched the masked people dance toward us and to where other masques were gathered. They squatted in a huge semi-circle as the drumming and whistling swelled with the momentum. A signal that the sacrifice was completed caused them to start parading around the grove of trees with the children all running in front of them. Some masques carried fetish sticks. Their costumes were made of natural fibers, dyed black and pink. On their heads sat big hand-carved wooden masks, each of a certain animal, ie, gazelle, monkey, bird, antelope, sheep, herron, etc. Each masque in turn danced a particular step representing their animal. Then danced away into the grove. There were 23 in all, and it was captivating. We were lucky to see this festivity that only occurs every three years. It finished by dusk, and will continue two more days, when Becky got permission to take pictures. (See photos.)

Zongo gave me and my bags a ride on his moto to the gare, where the driver made a special trip back to Ouaga for me. At one point he let out his assistant, who went into the nearby village for milk, which I assume was freshly drawn. We waited for him to return with his two liter bottle. Reminds me of the fresh Jersey milk route my father made most weekdays stopping on route to town from the country.

Fourth week of July 2009

Back in village we weighed 28 babies and only one was frightened of me. That is progress. There was much visiting among the women today and they seemed to understand the Moore' numbers I was saying to convey their baby's weight. Albertine gave out immunizations to those infants needing them and then she did 3 or so prenatal consultations. We were done well before noon.

I went to the market to get vegetables for Garrett, when I received both a text and call from Zongo back in Becky's village. As I was visiting in the church hangar I saw Kabore' from Stephanie's village, Gao. He remembered me from a visit there. A Puel man bought me dolo and JB came by to say the pork was almost finished, so I left to buy enough to share with George's family. On the way I got my new fan motor from Augustine, who had repaired the motor himself for one mille. I practiced the Moringa sensibilisation for the CREN the following day.

Indeed at the CREN Sr. Margaret was waiting to greet us when we arrived after 10 that Friday morning, and there were over 20 women with malnourished babies in attendance at the Moringa talk. We were in the big octagon shaped main hall with little fire pits along one wall. The women and babies sat in an L-shaped bench area along another wall and we used the table in that area to train from. There were two or three sets of twins, which typically have high incidence of malnutrition. Sr Amy, Father Paul from Togo and a visitor from France as well as some of the CREN staff came to observe and ask questions as they were so interested in the topic. We had a chart up on the wall about the vitamin and nutrients that Moringa leaves contain. I spoke in French and Georges translated into Moore' for the women. They asked which is better fresh or dried leaves or powder. The concentrated powder has the most, and the fresh or dried leaves retain theirs if cooked under 5 minutes. Adding the powder to broth for infants is especially helpful. At the conclusion we passed out little cloth gift bags of Moringa seeds, which pleased the women. We had them share booklets showing how to plant, protect from the animals, etc. There were not enough to go around so they declined to take one home. The staff thought the mothers understood the presentation, which pleased us.

On Saturday Madi returned home to his family next door from his year studying in Bobo. He had passed his BAC, which is a high achievement in Burkina Faso. Now he goes on to the University either in Koudougou or Ouagadougou. No one knew he would arrive, as he lost his portable phone and couldn't inform them.

Later my friend Achille came to visit me and spend the night. He had painted a big sign for the Moringa petite forest. “Tree of Life”. We went over to CSPS to hang it on fence. See photo. He also brought me an oil painting of a Moringa tree for my house, as well as cultural drawings he made for each of my children. Achille proudly showed me his passport and documents he had gathered to get Visa to come visit in America.

That Sunday we went to Sabou to attend Father Emanuel's first Mass in his home parish since his ordination last week. Kiemtore' Maxime was the second Abbe at the Mass, and the congregation was truly excited at the event. The choral group and young dancer group were both amazing. At the conclusion the priests and others danced and clapped in procession through the church. The village chef gave Fr. Emanuel a hat, a daba, a bag and valise. Many other gifts were forthcoming.

On Tuesday Madi and I pedaled 30 minutes to the field of his family SE of our house. We saluted many people en route who were working in their fields. Upon arrival I photographed each of Minata's children planting corn in the fields. Abdoulaye came over to where we were and helped Madi and I weed one field. I worked an hour and got so tired I had to rest. Then I managed another hour before I actually called it quits. We sat under the tree next to the chicken coop Minata has there, and watched the new brood of chicks follow their mother around hunting for something to eat. The two brothers grilled corn for us to snack on, then when the pot of beans and corn Minata was preparing for lunch was ready we ate together. As we observed the various fields of crops, I noted that Minata has rotated crops since last year.

First week in August 2009

One of my neighbor's Sanata's baby was ill and I advised her to take him to the clinic. She said she had no money, so I said ask the price for medicine and I will pay for you. It was 450 francs, about $1. When I paid the pharmacist, I spoke with the Major about his suggestion and my desire to plant Moringa trees at around the perimeter of the school garden. He was OK with that, and I texted the school director for permission, which he granted. We convened a work party and the next day we took the 56 older Moringa saplings from my veranda to the school grounds to plant. My fellow volunteer Garrett came to help Karim, my counterpart and I load up the trees in a huge basket Hamadou loaned us. He also provided a machete' to cut big weeds and a daba, digging tool. Karim put all that on his bike and it was a precarious sight to be sure, but he made it .5K away. Two of the Major's sons, Saidou and Oussmane were there to help us. We all worked two hours straight to get the little trees into the ground, secure some parts of the fence, and water everything with the help of little boys at the school pump. About that time black clouds came and threatened to rain, but no luck!

The next day I returned Garrett's daba to him, and he said he can go with me to Sune' for sensibilisation after his meeting tomorrow at 10am. A group of young men in Thyou formed a young men's gardening association and are making plans to grow produce for money. It rained hard overnight.

We biked to Sune' as planned. I had texted ahead to the health liaison in village that we were coming, but they have no cellular reception there, so had no notice. Last night's rain and today's mud made the journey tricky. We found the chef in the village and he said everyone was in the fields and some farmers had traveled further east to help their fellow farmers in their fields. Garrett commented that he liked the village and said now he felt like he was in Africa (in the remote village). Near the village meeting place, a grand old Baobob tree had hundreds of birds chirping from their huge nests, while a vulture perched on a limb squawking. Clusters of new leaves were coming out on the branches. We set a date with the chef to return for the HIV-AIDS presentation and I would invite Garrett's replacement, Jonathan to help with it. On the return home we saw a woman wearing a wreath of leaves on her head and atop that a huge calabash was resting, full of something I'm sure. We also passed a man whose bike broke down and he was walking his produce to the market in Thyou. George took his grain for him to Sala to leave at mechanics hangar. The man told us while he was voiding in the bush, one of his two pigs got away. Oo-la-la!

Second week of August 2009

Our Moringa meeting was over the weekend in Ouagadougou, and I prepared Kopto, as a dip from the harvested leaves to wrap a tortilla around. It was a hearty and also lucky late morning snack, because the lunch we ordered in did not come. The original members of this committee showed pictures of progress with Moringa projects in their villages, and we had lots to discuss and decide before the coming turnover of members. Rob and I worked on the broth recipe for the little Moringa booklet he has designed. The booklet is in French and 5 other local languages to be given out to the villagers as we talk with them about the benefits and how to plant Moringa.

On the roof of the Peace Corps Bureau, four stories up, we watched a beautiful sunset ranging from red to pink to violet along with beautiful shaped roundish clouds. There were thousands of bats in the air as far as the eye could observe. (See photos.)

Also Idrissa, a driver took me for my five country Visa located in an old government building with stacks of musty files and one guy working the desk. Idrissa requested the form, and had me fill it out. We went a couple blocks away to get visa photos, turned those in with 25 mille and left to return later when that was all processed.

My extended family in America was at Lake Shasta for a reunion, so when we connected on “Skype” there we all were seeing each other on live camera. We talked a long time and my brothers were in rare form as we joked and visited. What a treat to see my grandchildren and how they've grown since I left home.

On Sunday four of us had a guide, Anselme drive us north one hour to the famed personal animal park of Blaise Compare', the president of BF. Each visit has to be set up, so we were lucky Anselme coordinated this. Zinaire' Animaux Parc has large game animals and some small ones too. We drove into the 20 acre park and walked to the very big circular cages of tiger, hellan, elephants, monkeys, hippo, snakes, giraffe, horses and an ostrich egg. The hippos put on quite a show, which Christina captured on a video.

Anselme told us we brought him good luck, as his wife was getting her veterinarian degree soon in that town, where he visited her while we had lunch. Afterwards we stopped at the market going on in Minagou, where Anselme treated us to dolo. What a pleasant day we had! Later I showed all the neighbor kids the photos and hippo video, as most have never been to Ouaga, let alone to a zoo.

The next day, I returned to village to find Minata's husband, Oussmane and daughter, Sanata both were home too. That week on Thursday when the women and babies came for weighing, we began a series of Prenatal Care sensibilisations using a flip chart funded by Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation and provided by the Health Minister of BF, and Family Care International, . The accoucheuse asked the women to stay for the talk. She and the two nurses, Emilie and Bibita, chimed in at opportune moments to comment on the topics related to good prenatal care for the mother and baby during and after pregnancy. There was a lively back and forth discussion between several women and Georges and the accoucheuse, who fielded those comments. Especially when the subject was coming into the clinic soon after they become pregnant. The midwife said they need to stop working so hard then and have their husband come with them for checkup to assure good health and she will answer questions then for both parents. Some women don't come for prenatal visits they said because they have no money for medicines prescribed. Albertine asked them to encourage other women to come for the good of all.

The Assumption of Mary into heaven is a big Christian feast day in BF. Our church had just finished the new grotto honoring the Virgin Mary by this date and the priests from Sabou came to say Mass outside near there. The grotto is like others in BF, big reddish pumice rocks form the “cave” and the alcove opening to display the large statue for the occasion. Otherwise she rests in a windowed case above the archway. The congregation formed a procession with the statue of Mary for the dedication on this feast day. It brought tears to my eyes to witness the undying devotion the Burkinabe' have for the mother of Jesus. The celebration continued under 8-10 grand trees in the meadow, with food of every description and drinks too.

End of August 2009

At the market I found Pascaline, who went home to gather Moringa branches for me (200F) as I wanted to take Kopto over to Garrett's for dinner on his last night in village. He is advisor and has a meeting that night with his young men's group who are planting a garden for profit. I went home, sat under the hangar out front and stripped the Moringa leaves from the branches, making two big bowls. I dried one bowl of leaves and made Kopto from the other. This is a nice pesto on garlic toast. The rains started at 4pm and continued straight through to 6:30 only letting up a little. I biked to Thyou with my new bike lite and Garrett was waiting on the main road for me. The four of us ate together, as both our language teachers were there to enjoy the beans Gar made and my offering. We were lucky with the earlier rain and the darkness of night to be able to get together. I was anxious to buy his dutch oven, which he had packed on his bike and put the big marmite on mine. Gar and Geo biked home with me for safety.

I went to the clinic to visit with the Major and saw two new babies in the maternite'. One of the mothers had another woman with a one year old child visiting her, and she asked me for a mousquitaire. I explained to come to my house across the field, but she didn't come. I think she only speaks Gourounsi and the language was a problem between us. I met the president of the young men's football group, Issaka, and was able to express my condolences on losing their 10 month old daughter to malaria last month. They took her to the hospital in KDG for transfusion, to no avail. He came by my house the next day for the mousquitaire I offered and I gave a couple Moringa trees too.

6 year old Ali was in the path crying his heart out, and I gathered Karim took his food. I brought him into my house to feed him the rest of Kopto on some bread and a power bar I had. The tears dried up then.

One morning by 8am it is pouring buckets outside and the skies are all gray. That continued until noon. In the afternoon I needed potash for my beans and rice, so I went next door where Sanata was making some. She had a container of sorts with ashes that she dripped water through into another vessel. Minata tasted it for strength and put some of the liquid in my jar. The two women were making bengado. Minata ground the beans into a powder, Sanata washed the leaves from the bean plants. The next step fascinated me. Minata built a rack from sticks of wood and straw in a big curved marmite and put it on the open fire. Meanwhile Sanata combined the ground beans, leaves, oil, potash and water and formed balls. Minata put these on the rack to cook in the contrived steamer.

I practiced the two lessons on prenatal care for the talk Thursday morning with the women at the maternite'. One topic was about involving the husband in the birth process early so that he is well informed and helpful. The other topic was the need for good diet during pregnancy and nursing of the baby. Many small meals are preferable and food from each of the food groups. At the discussion we emphasized that alcohol is bad for the woman and fetus, as well as infants. The 35 in attendance got involved with the issues.

I was excited and busy cleaning house for my guest that came for the weekend. Amade' my host father in OHG took the bus from there to Ouaga, south to Sabou and then bush taxi the 15K to my place. Wow, what a treat! The women couldn't come due to working in the fields. He was carrying his suitcase up the path as I showed him to my place, where he met the neighbors. We walked to the clinic to meet the Major. They are about the same age and got along well. I showed him the Moringa garden. We went to visit the forestry agent, Bernadette, then onto the village chef's place.

Amade' and I talked of the family of course. He was anxious to show me the photo album I had my daughters make up and send to them. I made Riz Gras for dinner, which turned out well. Amade' prayed two times that first day with me as is his custom. On Friday we sat visiting on the porch until it was time to go to the mosque. Madi accompanied him there and afterwards showed him around Thyou. While they were gone I fired up my dutch oven and made banana nut bread from a mix, which was a success. After lunch the three of us went to see Sala's barrage, which is very big now, esp in this rainy season. Since we were on foot we didn't go to the far end where Minata and many other villagers have gardens. But Amade' was impressed by it nonetheless.

Ramadan began that Saturday, which means all the Muslims fast from food and water during daylight. Minata rose at 4am to prepare breakfast before daybreak for Oussmane, Madi and Amade'. Later that morning Madi and I went down to the road with Amade' to wait for the bush taxi back to Ouaga for him. I loaded him up with toothbrushes for his entire family and sent my best wishes to Orokia and Alizetta and Awa the grandmother in the family. I hope to get to see them all before I leave.

Every evening for over a week the neighbor kids came over to play with the bionic Lego type toys that Luke sent for them in zip lock bags. Their creative sides took a while to catch on but soon they were into making their own objects. It was fun to watch.

The catechist from church, Jean Baptiste, wanted to come pay me a visit. Georges came to help with the translation. One day I prepared tuna sandwiches, and cole slaw, and we drank melange. JB led grace before and after the meal. He said Marie couldn't come because people were helping her in the field today. JB brought me a chicken from his own flock. I was pleased to show him my families, USA, OHG and Sala, I have on my bulletin board. I sent him home with two Moringa trees, a tuna pack and a sandwich for Marie.

My watering can had lost its handle, so I took it to the solder guy in the market for repair (300F). He did a fine job and now I can water Moringa in both places easier. Three adult sons of the Major came by my house for a visit and to get the mended soccer shoes for Zachariah. I found footsies to give them as well. I packed up ten Moringa seedlings in a box for the Major to take to Bansmnore' his natal village. I am hopeful to distribute the rest of the seedlings before I go on vacation. Gerard, my carpenter came to get six for the row of Moringa at his house. Then an idea struck me to ride around and distribute a Moringa tree to each family chef to plant and be used by all the women of his compound.

The first evening I took four to compounds behind my place and east of me. The next day Syrille came by to get two more trees for himself and two for a blind neighbor. That evening I took a tree to the big house en route to the Thyou barrage and north of me a ways. There were two more neighboring compounds I gave them to there. Next I packed up four trees and headed east of the clinic to leave trees at those compounds. One of them was that of the man plowing in the field with his steer and boy following him. I gave him that photo too.

One late afternoon/early evening I passed out eight trees on the west side of the main road in Sala, starting this side of the school and all the way to the mechanics place. Another time I took six down the hill from me but on this side of the road and passed out seedlings to those nearer neighbors. I found people who understood French, seldom English, but most could tell from the body language what I was doing and we got a good visit with each other in the process. Some villagers even showed me their already existing Moringa trees, which I was very pleased to see.

The evening before I left for Ouaga on vacation to Togo/Benin I went to my family chefs houses and gave them each Moringa trees, then also to Sita and Alizetta who each have houses on the outskirts of our compound. All the older seedlings are distributed and the young plants will be ready in a month or so. Rainy season is the ideal time to plant and hopefully they all take!

Ghana Vacation

I took the bush taxi from Thyou to Ouaga on Thursday morning and went to the American Embassy to got three copies of the visa information for people I may want to invite to America. I had a chocolate milk shake at the American Embassy club, such a reminder of home. At the Transit House After some final preparations, I went to the airport for my flight to Accra, Ghana at 10:45pm. It took a little over an hour. When I arrived there at midnight, I changed some francs into cedis (Ghanaian currency). Then a taxi took me to the Millennium, a hotel next to the Cathedral in Accra. I caught up on my sleep there, before going to Makola Market, the city's chaotic main market. I walked through many streets of vendors and little stalls of things to buy where there were literally thousands of people everywhere. It became overwhelming! I rested in a gazebo type restaurant, where I could have brochettes and a beer, while listening to some Cuban music that several couples were dancing to. While there Connie called me to chat. She said they are going to Portland on Memorial weekend to show their slides of her visit to Burkina Faso. She requested I send pima (hot pepper) for the barbecue. I shopped a little longer, and found some black leather sandals for 20 cedis.

At Mass in the morning I was able to record the service which was in the national language, English. On the right side of the church were many people dressed in similar print tissue. Interspersed in the congregation were village chefs in distinct black on white designed tissue, with pagnes worn over their shoulders. The choral group was large and inspiring. The main priest saying Mass was an excellent speaker and talked about Christ making a straight line for man to follow as he zigzags through life. At offertory people brought up gifts of harvest and food in beautifully cellophane wrapped baskets to donate to the priests.

I took a cab to the tro-tro (bush taxi) station. En route the driver stopped at Barclay's Bank so I was again able to use my credit card to get enough local currency to get through the first week at the coast. The cabbie pointed out the Accra Football (Soccer) Stadium, where the world cup just happened and Independence Arch, where political gatherings occur. After an hour or two wait, a tro tro was finally leaving for Cape Coast, and I squeezed in with a bunch of passengers. The scenery was wonderful along the coast highway. Occasionally the traffic slowed to a crawl. During one such time, a young vendor walking in front of some cars was struck by a moto driving between the two lanes of stopped vehicles. The boy flipped up into the air and the two people on the moto cuffed him. From my vantage point it was the moto causing the accident. It was horrific to witness.

At Cape Coast Sylvester, a man I conversed with in the tro tro paid a taxi driver to take me to Takoradi, the final leg of my trip to the beach. He recommended a tour of Cape Coast Castle if time permitted. There was a branch of the University of Ghana Worker's College for adult education on the hill above town and I stayed in a dorm room for the night. The view through the large window in the back looked out onto a garden area, where the birds were singing amongst the old trees filled with fresh leaves. A light mist was falling, but I could still see the bell tower above the garden as I sat there reading. I finished “Things Fall Apart” by Chinua Achibe about the changes the white man brought African culture in Niger valley years ago.

In the morning the school director got a taxi for me to the transport station serving Dixie Cove, where I hired another taxi to Green Turtle Resort, so talked up in the West Africa travel book. The ride was quite an experience the least part of which was the terrible rutted dirt road 14K there. Halfway there the driver stopped because the radiator was overheating, and I watched through the front windshield in the space below the raised hood. I saw him tear off the fiberglass barrier, then get a rope from the trunk and proceed to secure the hose from the radiator to the engine. All this after the youth from the nearby hut brought him water to fill the radiator, which just kept puffing up steam. Many kids were standing around watching the activities. The driver was trying to somehow bite through the untwisted rope strands, when I handed him my Leatherman knife and he finished the task at hand and filled the radiator up with water again, with no cap for it. As we left for the rest of the journey all kinds of red lights appeared on the dash, brakes, fuel, radiator? The driver lingered at Green Turtle to see if I wanted him to return Friday for transport back, but the resort manager saved my dilemma when he said they had a car going to Takoradi then.

The tan stucco hut with a thatch roof sat facing the spectacular Atlantic Ocean. Inside was a main round room with a round shower inside its pebbled walls. The toilet was self composting with an urn of ashes to add once a week. The louvered windows and bamboo furniture and bed under a mousquitaire completed the coziness of the beach hut. I explored the area around the Green Turtle Resort and discovered a volleyball net, a ping-pong table and dining tables on a sandy ridge overlooking the rolling waves. The powerful sound of the ocean forced me to realize a vacation was at hand. I saw a native climbing a coconut tree and he cut one for me before he climbed down. Then he skillfully carved the husk off and opened the end so I could taste the fresh milk. I had chicken dinner on the beach that night by the light of the lantern. It was so lovely. And later as I fell asleep listening to the ocean I thought how glad I was to be here.

For several days I walked the beach, finding a little fishing village at the far end of the beach and near a bay where long narrow canoes pulled in loaded with fish and fishermen. I spent hours in the afternoons watching these vessels out in the ocean bobbing up and down, until their lights came on after dusk. To my dismay one morning I found some critter had eaten a hole through my canvas bag to get inside to the smell of peanut butter. They made confetti out of a blue plastic sack too. Later I found they slide in under the thatched roof and scramble when they hear a sound. I had brought a little food so as to not buy all my meals, but the bread fresh out of their oven daily and the other wonderful homemade meals at the Green Turtle convinced me otherwise. For example the next night's dinner was chicken thighs, fried aloco (plantain) and red-red beans in spicy sauce. Laying on the beach reading my novels, watching the ocean and listening to coast sounds was relaxing. Green Turtle has an outside shower area made of stone, some jutting out to set things on. Nothing is quite like shampooing in the warm shower with birds singing overhead and a breeze to refresh the skin. Add a breakfast of coffee, French toast, fried bananas with honey and it is paradise. I took some photos of a toddler kicking a football on the beach as he followed his father's cleanup cart. Very endearing.

One afternoon I decided to don my swimsuit and play in the surf. The water was warm and the waves quite strong. They knocked me over a couple times, and then one came that swept me off my feet along with my camera. Darn! I walked down the beach to the next little village, Akwidaa and had a drink that reminded me not of stout beer, but sassafras. Angie called me as I walked home on the dirt road instead of the beach for better reception. She said something called Swine Flu is causing world wide emergency plans into action. WHO is calling it a level 5 alert.

Two men returning from the fields, stopped me to ask about why I was in Africa and thanked me, inviting me to come work in Ghana when I'm done in BF. They continued on about the election and Obama. In this way the world is smaller now. I took my phone to the bar/common area in the center of the beach complex for charging overnight, but there was not enough sun so it took a bit of the next morning to restore power to my battery. Wisely people here rely heavily on solar energy.

I was now ready to head to Kumasi, a good distance north of the coast by way of a tro-tro. The entire way the land was plush and green like Hawaii, with thick underbrush. One difference was the villagers carrying water on their heads walking beside the road cautiously. There were any number of small villages along the route, but as we neared Kumasi both the traffic and construction increased substantially. The tro-tro let us off near the big largest market in Ghana and possibly West Africa, Kejetia. I made my way up the hill behind this “shanty town” market to the big, old Nurom Hotel Annex II for 12 cedis per night. As the rain was falling heavily, I stayed inside a Greek deli and ate dinner. I was watching a movie on the cable, when dozens of locals changed it to a soap opera that everyone follows habitually. Luckily I had seen “My cousin Vinny” before, but darn!

In the morning I shopped and found music and other things to bring back. Barcelona was playing soccer against Madrid (6-2) that day on cable. That was exciting to see. And at night I got goat meat brochettes and chatted with Hamadou from Cote d'Ivoire, who was in Ghana on holiday, because it was too cold at his home. That Sunday I had a cab take me up Roman Hill to St. Peter's Cathedral for Mass. I took in the beauty of the huge church, the music, the altar and congregation. I moved to the front so I could see better and try taping the English Mass. The musicians were there too. The acoustics in these old churches are fabulous.

I spent time at the National Cultural Centre in Kumasi where local artists make nice things you want to buy. Within the sample Ashanti Village I spoke with Dr. Oppong Ankrah who has an herbal remedy he treats all sorts of illnesses with. Traditionalists are common in most African countries. And often even trained medical staff use a combination of proven local remedies with modern techniques. In the center of the cultural boutiques and craft stores is a giant kiln, with four fire holes, and the potter said temperature of 900 degrees. The man who designed it is deceased but his legacy lives on here.

One of the fun things I learned to do in market was watch the cooks stir fry various rice and sauce meals, adding condiments and of course oil. They stir and toss the ingredients, holding the skillet on and off the heat. Presto, one has a meal wrapped in paper or a bag with mayo, pima, or red sauce to augment. Bon appetite!

Soon I was ready to return to Accra, which turned out to be a six hour bus ride, and completed the popular triangle of Accra to Cape Coast to Kumasi. I walked around the corner from the Cathedral and found the President's Hotel, where I stayed until my flight home. I spent those few days at both the marketplace, where I bought red palm oil and pagnes. Also I visited the artisan village in Accra , where I found beaded jewelry and an Ashanti design stool carved out of a single piece of wood.

I found a nearby restaurant, set in a garden and run by a Canadian couple with homemade and plentiful food. I chose chicken, chips and cole slaw. I perused my West African travel book and decided to get a cab to drive me past Independence Square with Arch, replica of the Arc de Triomphe. I asked him to drive along the Atlantic coast too, but alas there is not much public beach available. Next I wanted to visit the Osu Castle located on a road that ends overlooking the ocean. Taxis aren't allowed very close to the entrance so I walked down a tree lined boulevard to the gate and discovered that there are no tours as it is a “government restricted building”. I used their facilities, walked to their tiny post office, and out along the bluff overlooking the ocean. I noticed children playing in the surf close to the Independence Square. I returned to the entrance area and a guard with a gun motioned for me to move off the grass. Of course I did, then stopped to talk to him. He inquired if I was sight-seeing. Then referred me to Elmena Castle, which is identical but open for tourists and near Cape Coast. He also explained the security concerns are related to the president's mansion being located down a lane near this castle.

I walked back down the tree lined route and at the Artist Centre I found the little stool for 70 cedis. I also got two acrylics from Joe, who was negotiating the bench price between me and the vendor. It was closing time and all the staff wanted to get home to watch the soccer game between Barcelona and Chelsea. I fell asleep in my room watching that.

My journey to the airport was not eventful, and I was able to change my remaining cedis into francs outside the terminal. The flight left on time, then made a stop at Abidjan, Cote d'Ivoire to pick up more passengers. Flying over this country, I noted it was more like Ghana and Hawaii too. They are known for their cocoa and fruit tree exports.

Second week of May

I returned to Ouaga by noon, and to the Transit House to relax and visit other PC volunteers. I practiced the Moringa powder recipe for beignets that evening with Elsa's help. On Saturday at the Food Security Committee meeting Kevin provided an overview, and I gave a brief talk on malnutrition. Pete updated everyone on the progress of the seed bank, and getting more resources together. The agriculture workshops were a part of the discussion. In the late afternoon we all adjourned to the Transit House, where Elsa and I made a big batch of beignets accompanied with either sugar or a guacamole sauce. A Niger volunteer, Lauren, came to stay overnight at the TH on her way back home. She knew all about Moringa and said Hawa would be happy to know we are making her Moringa powder beignet recipe.

Sunday I put on my Easter pagne to attend Mass at St Francis, where there was a men's choir singing and 5-7 priests at the altar. It was very beautiful. Father Gaelon stressed that the sacrament of reconciliation gives one the strength and grace to resolve any issues. He said that God is merciful as long as one keeps trying. When one stumbles, (s)he picks oneself up and continues trying.

I had a nice long chat with Heather that afternoon, and she still wants to come visit me in Africa. We discussed places we'd like to see. She's doing 60K bike ride soon for an AIDS benefit. Later Chris and Tabor called and Tabor told me he wrapped mom's mother's day present. Shelley will like her flower from her son a lot. Chris said that Todd and his new girlfriend, Tracey stayed a few days with him and at the end of an impromptu barbecue, Shawn, Jodi and Cash stopped by for a brief visit.

I was able to get my blog posted and a package ready to go with a PCV visiting America next week. Then the PC driver came for a few of us to take to the taxi brousse gare for returning to our villages. I bought a few more things, picture frames etc before mine left. When I got back to Thyou the Major came in his car and took me and all my things back home. I was so happy for the ride. The whole compound came out to greet me. Minata took me over to see Salame, the family chef, who severed his big toe in a moto accident. It was bandaged up. I watched Hamadou, the other family chef in our compound play with his baby son. I was glad to go to the market in Thyou and taste local dolo again after my vacation. I also was glad to renew my French lessons.

I tried to find a soccer game on the radio, when Dicko Oussmane, a Sala teacher stopped by for a visit. He gave my soccer donation to the district office in Sapouy, who is organizing the playoff games between different villages. Sala won their game and go to the next level this coming weekend. Dicko talked about wanting to learn to use a computer soon. I showed him the student letters I've been translating too.

I walked down my hill to Issaka's new 4 room house with a rounded corner on the NW exterior, exceptional in village. I wanted to talk to him and Sita about Sali's eye appointment next Tuesday. He will bring her to the bush taxi.

When I went to the clinic I found Babou was there also because his daughter was on drip feed for malaria. I went home to get a couple things for her: a ball and hair clips. I gave Babou some photos for himself and Batiou, ASCs from the talks we did in their village, Dana.

On that Friday we pedaled our bikes to Dana for a sensibilisation at the school in Dana. The director put all the students together for the hygiene lesson on brushing teeth. The teachers took a break while we talked with the children. We were a little rusty from a month off but soon got in the groove again. 8 youth from the various classes did a good job demonstrating the activity. The students sang the song perfectly we taught them last time. When the teachers returned they said the director had walked over to the Dana market, so we went there to donate the school supplies for him to distribute. We also left the village chef his framed picture and several Moringa trees at his home. We biked back and made it to our marche' for pork sandwich.

The final soccer game between Bagre and was in Thyou that day, so I went to the field and found a seat with Ky Simplice and Koala Jean and other functionaires. Our Sala teachers were there. Bagre won 2-0 and the thousands of spectators were very enthused about it. Prizes were awarded at the end of the season.

My neighbor kids helped me invite the children in our compound who hadn't received a new tee-shirt to come for one. That took a while, but was rewarding, as they each had a big smile. Saidou's wife came by for coffee and asked for a shirt for their baby too. Then I pedaled 3K to church, where many young adults were being inducted into the Scholastic Society. I attended Mass and Communion, and greeted many people afterwards. That Sunday afternoon Angie called me and she shared that she was disappointed that I didn't stay the whole month in Ghana. She said the girls' First Communion went smoothly and they were happy with the rosaries I sent them.

Last two weeks of May

On Monday I found the Major at clinic early and let him know my planned activities for the week. I'll take Sali to Ouaga for eye exam Tues, go to Yaoghin school in Thyou on Tues for sensibilisation and do a HIV-AIDS presentation on Saturday with Garrett's help. He oked all of it and went back to his supervisory conversation with the RN. After some reading and a nap, I went to the marche' and met some friends for lunch. Then I searched for baby clothes for one tiny one who missed out on the t-shirt giveaway.

On Tuesday morning Issaka brought Sali over. She had not eaten anything, believing she'd eat after the exam. I convinced him it will be a long day and feeding her won't interfere with the eye exam in any way. He had Adama, 13 take her to the gare on his bike. When I arrived at 7:05, driver was saying “Tante, vite” meaning “Auntie, fast!” We all left at 7:08am. Eight year old Sali sat by the window and from that elevated position had a good view of things as we traveled to the capitol. She had never been to Ouaga before and watched the numbers of people, the vehicles, and the vendors everywhere with fascination.

We caught a taxi to the Simigna Clinic and the young optician, Kan Fabrice, adjusted my glasses. I filled out papers as we waited for Kan Rene', the Ophthalmologist to arrive. Presently his son came into the waiting room and said that his father was doing two eye surgeries this morning when the power failed in Ouagadougou. He took my number to call me if Rene' returned soon, but thought we'd have to reschedule, maybe in June, when the heat and demand for AC power lessens. So Sali and I got in another taxi and went to the TH, where I did a few errands and then onto the PCB, where I checked my mail and worked on the computer some. All of this was new to Sali. The staff and other volunteers were interested in Sali and what we were up to. We ordered lunch from the Bleu Marlin and PC drove us to the gare to return to Thyou. I bought many sachets of water as the day was very hot. By the time we got back to Thyou, I was very fatigued. Dicko Oussmane happened by on his moto and offered to take Sali back home. I pedaled home and retired early.

Wednesday we packed up for the sensibilisation at Yaoghin School where Abdoulaye, the Major's son teaches. He had all the students come outside to gather on an ancient boulder in the schoolyard in three consecutive groups for the dental hygiene discussion. (See photo.) We used four students from each group to demo the proper method for cleaning their teeth. It went smoothly and we finished up with the chant, which will help them remember the lesson learned.

That day and night I drank lots of water and ORS (oral rehydration salts) because of the heat and humidity, which made the weather rather uncomfortable. I kept waking up at night.

Thursday I arrived at baby weighing and we began early, weighing 40 babies in total. The accoucheuse did some Prenatal Consultations, the two nurse recorded the weights and heights as I weighed and measured all the babies. There was a rhythm to our work that day and we finished by 11am. Again it was so hot, 101 degrees. In my language lesson I read a lesson in French and Georges reviewed my written English translation.

Later we went to his house for dinner. I wanted to show Laurentine how to prepare the liquid herbal medicine for stomach problems I got her in Ghana. She was just making powder from cotton seeds for haricot leaf sauce., which covered ground maise toe- very delicious. Georges butchered a pintade and Laurentine made another sauce with tomato, oil and onions and garlic. Suddenly the wind came up so we went inside. That subsided and the house got stuffy, so we went back outside. Rain threatened so we moved under a hangar. Reminded me of musical chairs, and the evening was enjoyable.

Garrett came for a visit on his last day of teaching school and grading papers. We talked a long time about our experience in Burkina. I text Jean Baptiste, the ASC in Bolo, and made plans for the causerie on Saturday there. We hoped to have sensibilisation with the students and then HIV-AIDS talk with the villagers, since we were traveling 9K into the bush. The school director had all the students come into one room for the talk and that helped minimize our time. It took a little over an hour for the dental hygiene talk and demo by the students. I left some American student letters for Bolo students to have and respond to.

The ASC from Bolo found us at school and led us to the causerie site in the marche' near where Philippe, the clinic RN and another nurse in training were giving vaccinations. Some women were there too, but left for the fields immediately afterwards. We ended up rescheduling for next Thursday. Garrett was getting very hot on his bike and needed water. I was on the moto so not feeling that depleted.

In the next week I had Dr. Claude come for a site visit while we were at the Yargo School in Thyou doing sensibilisations with three groups of children. She observed that, took pictures and captured a video with sound on it using her new cell phone. She played it back for the students and they all giggled with glee. She said a few words to them about life long dental health. She said that Georges is a good animator leading the singing and that he translates well. She was impressed she said and happy to see me in action. We stopped by Garrett's so she could say Hi to him and Dr. Claude suggested that he involve his students in summer activities. Then we went on to my house, where I made her an American tuna sandwich. We reviewed the Prenatal Flip Chart on healthy pregnancy for mother and baby plus involving the father as much as possible in the process. We talked more about my work and she gave me ideas, like using the flip charts to talk with the women at baby weighing days. Many of my neighbors came by to greet Dr. Claude.

SCHOOL-BASED SENSIBILISATIONS

I think I found my niche! Sometimes training the villagers in Africa can seem overwhelming, and I try to sort out where my impact will make a lasting impression. We have done talks about VIH-SIDA, Malaria, and Principal Health Problem with the villagers of Sala and her 7 satellite villages. And we have sensiblized the many students in all of the schools in my same area. The health hygiene topics of washing the hands properly with soap and brushing the teeth correctly have been well received by this captive audience.

I say “we” because my language teacher, Kiemtore' Georges accompanies me to every sensibilisation to aid in my French and to translate into Moore' as needed. But an added bonus has been that since he has been choral director at church, he is also an animated leader in teaching song to the students.

I use visual aids and involve the students in these health lessons. Sometimes the students volunteer or the teacher volunteers them, but I believe having children demonstrate the process is meaningful to their comrades in school. I include a series of questions to get the students quickly responsive, with a bon-bon treat as incentive. Sometimes there is laughter from the class, when a youth drops the soapball in the dirty water bucket, or when they have toothpaste all around their mouth.

The best part seems to be when we get to the chant to the tune of “Michael, row your boat ashore”, as outlined in Avant Santee. “Si tu veux la bonne sante', lave' toi les mains. A l'eau et du savon, lave' toi les mains.” We usually have half of the class sing at a time, contrasting with the other half a couple times, and then in unison they shout it out. We are all having fun!

When I began the teeth brushing sensibilisation I was able to find posters from WHO to illustrate the importance of taking daily care of the teeth. The students agree they know people in their families and neighbors with missing or decayed teeth. We demonstrate with both the local material, Niim using soda powder as well as modern brushes using toothpaste. We show them the things that can damage teeth when put in the mouth: glass, bones, metal, rocks, and very hard candies. At the conclusion I asked the students if they remembered the song we taught them last time regarding hand washing They immediately sang it for us. At the school in Zao the director revised the chant, switching the words to “Si tu veux la bonne santee, brouche toi les dents, pate de dentafrice, brouche toi les dents.” We have used it ever since! We ask the students to take the information home and tell the family.

I know it's made a difference, because more and more kids, when they see me or my language teacher and I along the route, start singing the chant. Not only they but their little sisters and brothers too! We were in my most remote village, Sune, 24K away, last week on a VIH-SIDA talk with Garrett when a 3 to 4 year old girl spontaneously sang the chant perfectly.

My village Sala is intertwined by proximity and marche' and in other ways with Thyou, 3K away, which is in a different health district. Nevertheless when teachers from there asked for the trainings, I was happy to get the ok from my major to take the trainings to the three schools in Thyou too. At one school the staff organized the two youngest classes, CP1 and CP2 on a huge ancient rock outside for the talk.

I took it as a complement when my major asked us to come to his natal village school with the lessons too. The students are always delighted to have visitors especially when they are so remote. My hope is these lessons will last a lifetime!

By midnight it was raining in torrents and was pounding the metal roof for two hours nonstop. The lightening lit up the room and the rumble went on and on. The wind continued blowing hard enough that the louvers had to be tightened as far as possible to keep all the wetness out. The temperature dropped 10-15 degrees and my sleep improved with that. The air became fresh and the hot season appeared on its way out finally.

We went to Bolo the next morning for the rescheduled sensibilisation. Babou met us and set us up under a tree. We passed the time there while waiting for the people to come in from planting their fields. A man with one bad eye came by with his older children and talked to me until I understood that he was father of the twins born eight months ago in Sala. He said that the twins were losing weight and got referred to the CREN in Sabou, where the boy, Albert died. Albertine, his daughter survived. I had given them a baby quilt from home at their birth. It is such a heartbreak!

By 1pm there were sufficient number to begin the talk. Patrice translated into Gurunsi after Georges translated into Moore'. Time consuming, but when we got to the condom demo, the villagers started giggling and squirming. No questions at the end, but I gave out a mousquitaire to a woman who came early and participated as we went along. The crowd numbered approximately 75. We came back on a dryer path than it was in the morning, but with a low tire. We had the mechanic repair the leak in it. That took almost an hour.

On Friday I met up with Laurentine to learn how to make maise toe. She was at the marche' where she was selling her cooked fish. When the last of the fish sold, we pedaled the back way around the Sala barrage to Paul and Ordeille's place, where the women were gathered today making toe. En route we waded 3 meters across a rapid stream with big rocks. I leaned on my bike for support as I walked across. The women were stirring a huge marmite full of toe, and rotating stirrers, as the fire and steam were very hot, not to mention the cooking was in direct sunlight. When 30 minutes passed and the toe was the right consistency they spooned round globs into clear plastic bags to be used tomorrow. I took a turn stirring but didn't last long and the women led me to sit me under a Mango tree with another grandma type, who was pulling leaves off vines. So I helped her strip the vines in the shade. The other women served lunch which was mashed kiki (igname) with fresh onions cooked in oil. Next came another course, rice with cabbage and sauce. Great! I continued to harvest the leaves until the heat of the day subsided around 3pm when I pedaled around the south end of the barrage going back home.

Saturday was the 20th anniversary of Fr. Frederick's Ordination and the cause of all the food preparations the previous day. There was a Mass at our church to mark the occasion. Fr Frederick is brother of Paul, who leads the choir at times. Four priests came there to assist. The priest who gave the homily had everyone laughing. He is the priest in Catholic Development near the Cathedral in Koudougou. The others were fellow seminarians with Frederick. Singing on this occasion was exceptional. Everyone was invited out to Paul and Ordeille's house for a lunch feast. I sat at the main table where Georges was with the dignitaries, and the KDG priests wanted a brief description of my volunteer work in Burkina. When the tables were cleared the priests made a toast with an excellent Italian wine and said closing Grace before people left for home. What a treat to be invited!

I packed a bag to stay the night in Sabou with the nuns, in order to attend the Catechist Mass the following morning. When I got to the gate Sister Margaret met me and we watched the new puppy trying hard to play with the very pregnant cat. She was having none of that. We had a light meal together of soup, salad and keisch ending with mangoes. Then it was time for vespers, and Sr. Mary handed me a French prayer book to follow along. Soon they indicated it was my turn to read, and they responded in chant. Their voices are very practiced and beautiful.

After dinner this 6 inch spider ran across the kitchen floor towards me and I actually jumped out of the way. Oh!!?!! Sunday morning I strolled around the yard to see the fruit and Moringa trees they had planted, about a dozen Moringa trees 1.5 meters high and looking very healthy now.

First week of June 2009

One morning I checked in with the Major and found that most people are in their fields, so the clinic is not busy. I let him know I would prepare a report for the COGES meeting to update them on my health activities. Later Georges reviewed my French COGES report. I also relayed to the Major that the twins from Bolo went to the CREN and one died. He felt badly. He said he would like to tour the CREN one day soon with me. I worked on translating student letters.

We prepared for the causerie at Thyou Ecole Centre. We had combined classes of CP1 and CP2.for a large group in one classroom. That attracted other youth to look in the windows, which proved too distracting. We had to chase them away to hold the attention of the students in the room. We talked to them about dental hygiene and the need to care for their teeth every day. The 483 students came in three groups and we had volunteers in each to demonstrate the brushing with toothbrushes and trimmed Nim branches. The teachers who were in a meeting were very appreciative for the activity.

That night the frogs were in harmony croaking down by the barrage, thousands of them.

I packed my backpack and one bag to go to KDG. It was good to be back there. I pedaled to the mission Notre Dame to find it closed for two weeks. School is out and nuns went to France. I text other PCV Melissa who suggested I try the mission by the hospital in town, but they were full. I sat under a tree there and kids came out to see me, then their father, who was happy to talk to an American. He asked me what I was doing in Burkina. He emphasized that here is a difficult life with the poverty and heat, which I was feeling at the moment. I told him about my heat stroke and he had his children bring me water. In spite of their own poverty, the Burkinabe' always find a way to help their fellow man.

I text my friend Achille, who came right over and helped me find a room at Hotel Modeste for 5 mille a night. I had to stop several times due to heat, but when we finally arrived there, and had pork sandwiches for lunch while relaxing. Achille came back in the evening with dinner from the restaurant by the Forest Conference Center. We watched TV a while, but I was dozing.

We spent one afternoon at the KDG marche' shopping. I was happy to find a Burkina Faso t-shirt I liked. Then onto the internet cafe' for computer work. I posted student letters while in town too. I wanted to cash check at the bank but the computers were down so it was not possible. We pedaled to Achilles’ family home and we visited with them. His brother Seraphim is traveling to France for a month from mid June to mid July. He renewed his visa to travel. He said he will help Achille getting a visa for America. I explained that since 9-11 it is harder.

Sunday morning we met at Moukasa Parish for Mass. It felt like a big gymnasium. The place was packed and the choir was large, with many drummers. It is a ways from the center of town. We pedaled to town afterwards as I was returning to Sabou today. I found Georges outside St Luc's parish in Sabou, and also the nuns, who invited me to lunch and nap at their place. They are very good to me, and I got to see their flock of new pintades. Refreshed I left there to pedal to my village 15K away. En route Laurentine and Carmel (who was confirmed that day at Mass) stopped on the moto and invited me to stop by their house for repast and mélange. I prefaced my answer by “If I'm not too tired....” She insisted that I eat before going back home. I rode home by the moonlight, and when I turned to go up the path to my house, I got into the rain gully which ended suddenly, so I fell over on right hip. OUCH!

Monday I visited the clinic but they were not busy, so I returned home and translated six student letters, before reading my book “Unlucky in Law”. After the midi repose, I went back to the clinic to talk with the Major about going to Ouaga with Sali again for her eye exam. I turned in my three month report for the COGES (local health board) regarding my activities bringing health information to the villagers. Further, I let him know he and I can tour the CREN this week and he picked Thursday.

Sali and I traveled again by taxi brousse to Ouaga for her 11 am eye appt. Tuesday morning and the doctor was there this time. When they called us in, they administered the standard eye chart test on the wall to Sali. She read about four rows of large letters. Then came the machines! They adjusted her stool to fit the machine. The next thing I heard was Dr. Rene Kan say “Oh, la, la” several times. Sali looked into the machine and the technicians gave her instructions in Moore' for each eye. Next they put Sali on another machine that allowed Dr. Kan to look inside each of her eyes. He told me that the retina has two large areas of scar tissue in the left eye and one in her right eye that cover from the center out to one side. The right eye has 20/60 vision, whereas her left eye has 0 vision. He added this serious diagnosis is not correctable by wearing glasses. He offered that her mother may have been ill during that time in pregnancy when her eyes were forming. Added to this her father is diabetic.

Dr. Kan offered to photograph Sali's condition with yet another sophisticated machine. I agreed to this for the purpose of consultation with Dr. Cole, who paid for this office visit. I asked Dr. Kan to email Dr. Cole with this information and attach the photos. He observed that the only way Sali sees now is by turning her head and looking sideways. My guess was that she has no depth perception, but when we got back to village I saw her riding a bicycle, carrying a 5 gallon jug of water. It is human nature to adapt to whatever life hands one! Upon return to village, I rode my bike slow while Sali walked home. Her mother, Sita was in the fields until after 6pm when she came to find the results of our day in Ouaga. She thanked me.

On Thursday the Major and I rode his moto to the CREN in Sabou for the tour. The Major and Sr. Mary who is a doctor got along famously. She showed us the ER and the place where they wash wounds, then we came to two hospital rooms with patient's beds numbering to 10. One older man was being treated for lung infection, which the Major later told me was TB. We toured the pharmacy, lab and testing rooms, storage rooms and the accountant's office.

In a separate octagon shaped building, Sr. Amy showed us the CREN. We saw the weighing room, and watched as a malnourished baby was admitted there. We observed the sleeping areas for mothers and infants. The center grand room in the CREN is where the mothers are taught to make enriched brouillie and there are fire pits where they cook as if in village. Long benches line inside each exterior wall. Afterwards we had a long debriefing session with Sr. Mary, who gave the Major some medical supplies for Sala. (See photos.)

Last two weeks of June

It is mid-June and finally the skies opened up and gave us four hours of much needed rain. It sure helped my Moringa trees both at the maternite' and the new ones in sachets on my porch. I had company for American dinner, which Gilbert liked better than did his wife, while the baby slept through our time together. We ended a pleasant evening with a game of Uno. Garrett had another PCV Lara visiting, so we also enjoyed dinner together one night after which they walked back to Thyou in the moonlight.

Because everyone is in the fields most days, I do my own wash by washboard with soap, and hang it on the porch walls to dry. I walked to a nearby field that my neighbor ladies were planting to photograph them with my new camera. I caught sight of some children playing and some young men resting under a tree that made a good photo.

The Red Measles Campaign was four consecutive days, of which I helped out two. When I arrived there COGES members were organizing a line of children to begin vaccinations. I tallied numbers and opened syringe packages under the big tree out front of the clinic. Later that week Dr. Claude called and offered me her home to stay at when I go to Ouaga. I was thrilled with the invitation.

On Saturday, June 20th Burkina was playing Cote d'Ivoire a soccer match and it was on TV at the video store in Thyou, so I went there to watch, me and 500 men! Wow! Two men made room for me in the third row from the TV screen. (See photo.) When Burkina scored a goal, the place erupted in shouts. But, it ended 4-1 in favor of the neighboring country, So much passion and energy goes into the games here.

On Sunday when I took a taxi brousse to Ouaga, heavy rains started by the time we got to Sabou. The problem was there was no working wiper on a windshield resembling a spider with 12 legs. The driver did slow down but the rains came in his open window to the degree I had to put on my long sleeved shirt to avoid getting rained on. At Sabou I bought local bread, but I had no small change and neither did the boy selling it. The Muslim reading his Arabic prayer book and praying next to me paid for the bread. I was surprised and grateful. Once in Ouaga I took a taxi to the PCB and waited there for Dr. Claude's driver to come get me. Bintu greeted me at her door! What a surprise! The whole stay was delightful, with meals prepared for us, and access to the internet, and a chance to watch a Jeopardy type TV show from France. After a night in luxury, I moved to the Transit House by noon. Dr. Claude let me know that my site was selected for audit by the Feds and I should get a list of contact people and phone numbers to her soon. They are looking for benefits from having a PC Volunteer in their village.

I got a box ready to post to USA, as Bridgette, PCV is flying there this weekend. The clerk at the library store cut a box to fit for the things I wanted to send my family. Burkinabe' are so helpful to visitors.

At Bobo on June 23 Maxime was dedicated as a deacon, and the Catholic Church is lucky to have him. I typed his thank you French letter into English to send to the donors of the laptop from the church members in Eugene, OR and another PCV showed me how to attach the picture to go with it. Whew!

That Friday Georges, Garrett and I went to Bouyou for HIV-AIDS presentation. It was my last chance to have Garrett co present with me. The morning breeze was welcome. We arrived at the house of Amidou, who was there, thank God! And immediately set about gathering people for the causerie. In an hour there were enough people to begin and they were looking at the dark clouds gathering. We got two thirds of the way through, and after the condom demonstration, the weather suddenly changed to wind and rain. The people fled to the fields, and we took cover in the school director's house...for the next three stormy hours it turned out. (See photos.) It was a slippery and long ride home from there.

On Saturday another of the Major's children was wed, Hamidou to Sofi. They were married in another village and came to Sala for the marriage feast. I wandered around taking many photos of the Koala family in a similar tissue (fabric) made into many styles of festive attire. I was intrigued by the organization of the food, music, groups of people visiting one another awaiting the arrival of the couple. The momentum picked up as Zachariah drove them up to the door in his father's car. The bride and attendants came inside to sit on the couch while they ate. Soon Fatimata (major's daughter who was married last year) took me to photograph her brother, Hamidou, who was near where the music boom box would play on into the wee hours of the morning. There were hundreds of youth there as the whole village joined into the fun.

Sunday Mass had Thomas, the priest from Sabou and Deacon Maxime officiating to a packed hangar of parishioners. They are very happy to have one of their own becoming a priest. And the change from a service to a Mass is always welcome. I went to Ouaga to wish Lindsey bon voyage, as she is on her way to the University of Michigan to study. I feel sad another Somiaga volunteer leaves, as Becky and I now hold the mantle.

First week of March 2009

Transport to Ouaga on a Sunday is tentative. In the hour we waited by the road, a full taxi sailed by followed later by two others that stopped and I boarded one for the journey to town. Although Chris and Connie left USA March 1, they weren't due until the next evening. It is thousands of miles from home. Fespaco, the film festival is on this week in Ouaga and the town is packed. So the PC helped me find a place to stay when my family arrived. I went out to the Village Artisanal to get a few things to send home. The same taxi driver returned that evening at 7:30 for a run to the airport to greet my family.

It was hard to wait outside for them, but security doesn't allow non-travelers inside the airport. However we were already texting each other as they went through the customs line and finally at 10:30pm came out for a big hug. The cabbie helped load all the luggage and we rode back to Peace Corps Bureau, and walked down the road to the Blue Marlin for steak, fries and haricot verte (sauteed string beans) and of course a brew. We visited and just enjoyed time together so much.

We got up early the next morning to get to the bus station for our trip north to Mali and Dogon Country. First I introduced them to the PC staff and they were pleased to meet each other. The 9am bus we were planning on riding, was filled rapidly with people who had waited longer than we had. We hung out buying street food and a cup of coffee in a little corner shop in the terminal. We caught the noon bus to OHG which was a 3 hr ride. Once there, we got help packing our stuff 10 blocks to the bush taxi going to Mali. They were loading to go and it wasn't long before we were on the road to the border and three ID check points. Each time the taxi had to be pushed to start and the riders clapped when it started. At Koro our guide for the next two days, Omar met us near dusk. We then boarded another car for the ride to Tely. Omar phoned ahead so our chicken, rice and sauce dinner was ready when we arrived. Omar is this amazing guide who speaks five languages, knows the local history, smiles a lot and says “Gooot it” to everything you can think of. He also aided my mountain ascent and descent very much. That night we slept on a rooftop under the stars next to the mountain we would walk up the next day.

In the morning our welcome shower came out of an overhead wooden barrel. Omar brought up breakfast. We three and 6-8 others were still on the roof. We looked down as the villagers went about their tasks, getting water from the well, milling grain, opening their shops. Midmorning we started our climb to the escarpment. The Tellium people were here from the seventh to the thirteenth century and built the houses up on the cliff. They shared their space with the Dogon people who came then, until the 20th century when the Dogons took over the place. We saw grainery, meeting places, small huts, all carved out of the mountainside. There were paintings on the walls and reliefs of animals and hunters on the sides of dwellings. We also looked at the ropes that hoisted things up the mountain. The place was spectacular, as was the view from up there. (See photos.)

After lunch and repose we rode an donkey cart to the next village where we got to see women dying indigo pagnes in beautiful designs. We looked on as young boys were painting cloths in traditional designs with natural paints in colors of red, black, and yellow. Chris found a goat hide shoulder pack and Connie found a carved whistle to take home. We could see father teaching son the crafts as we wandered through that village. Back home that night the winds kicked up and we had to stay inside for protection from the sands from the Sahel.

The wind had left evidence in the courtyard, sand and dust in drifts and overturning things here and there. After our continental breakfast, mangoes and coffee, dough balls with honey, Omar walked us up to meet his family in Ende—aged parents and several grandchildren. Back at Koro, he proudly showed us pictures of his son, Assi, who was off with his mother. Omar connected us with transport back to BF. We interlaced our knees to fit in an already full taxi, and headed back, stopping only for a flat tire and three inspection checks at the border. At OHG we discovered the Staf bus only runs at 13h everyday, so we walked over to the Sodibus gare for our return to Ouaga. There we found an ATM and taxi back to Zone de Bois. We packed up everything for the ride to village the next afternoon, and all the neighbors in my compound came out to greet us. We had lots of help getting our gear up the hill. Friends brought over food and we visited over village repast and drink.

Second week of March

The village chef and two family chefs came in the morning to greet my family. The regulars came by for coffee too. It was a busy time, and we walked to the CSPS to tour the health center, meet the staff and Major. The 3 nuns and 2 French visitors from Sabou CREN came for a visit and joined our tour also. Sr. Mary and the Major were into health care conversation quickly, sharing info and experiences. We lunched together talking American politics regarding the new president, etc. When they left, I gave Sr. Mary a dozen Moringa seedlings from my veranda to plant at her health clinic in Sabou.

I took Chris and Connie to the marche' in Thyou, where vendors sell all sorts of things under little hangars and produce laid out on mats on the ground in the marketplace.. My friend Achille came in the late afternoon to visit from KDG. He brought the t-shirts he had lettered for the Major's son, who coaches a soccer team in a nearby village. A couple more of the Major's sons came to pick up the team shirts and soccer ball. Two had been over in the morning for their soccer shoes my family brought from America. Soccer is the sport of passion in Africa!

Sunday morning we three pedaled to St. Irene's Catholic Church in the temporary hangar at Thyou.. At the end of the service the catechist welcomed my visitors and I said a few lines in French, after which the congregation clapped warmly too. Lots of visiting and handshaking afterwards. Laurentine showed us big freshly caught fish she would prepare to sell at the marche' later. Achille, Chris and I went to a soccer game in the afternoon to watch the close competition match in Thyou 1-0. I was pleased with the yellow team shirts on the Bagre youth. At intermission dozens of kids swarmed around to view the American visitors. PCV teacher Garrett sat with us too. We got to greet all the players afterwards before going to celebrate at the marche. Laurentine had sold all her fish, except the last three I bought, which we added to our dinner later.

One day Chris measured space for shelving, and he and Abdoulaye went to Thyou to buy wood for the project. They came back like Africans with lumber piled high on Abdoulaye's bike. (I don't think the shopkeeper thought an American could manage the transport.) There were many kids on the porch watching and amazed as Chris and Abdoul put this plan into action.. While they were doing all that Connie French-braided my hair and gave me a Bowen (massage) treatment on my back and legs. Several villagers wanted a treatment, including Hamadou, my compound chef.

In the afternoon I made spaghetti sauce for a bunch of us, the families next to me and Garrett came to dinner as well. We sat on the veranda, the kids on a new bench Chris put together from the scraps. It was a fun evening. My family gave gifts of lights, wraps, and jewelry to the village chef and both the, compound chefs, my neighbor lady, etc. I wanted to show them Sala's big barrage, so we went there and Chris took a swim there. We toured the gardens and watched kids pump water there.

Wednesday I planned a hygiene talk with the students at Sala on teeth brushing. We had three groups of students covering two classes in each, so the whole school received the information. Volunteers from each class brushed their teeth properly with Nim or toothbrushes, and the kids tried out the toothpaste and sodium powder. There was laughter when that got on their faces. The kids sang the last chant from the hand washing talk, and had fun with that. We left some school supplies that my friends at home sent for school students.

Later in the day a storm came up and blew the tent off my porch into the yard of a neighbor behind my house. The rain went on all evening. Yvette and Laurentine arrived on a moto with dinner, rice, fish and wonderful spicy tomato and onion sauce. Afterwards we heard someone else coming, the major's sons brought over a dish of to' and goat meat. What generous people and they all want to share with the visitors from America.

Our village center has a boutique, a Celltell shop, a couple places to eat (usually benga or rice and sauce with meat), a buvette (pub) a mechanic and that's it. There is an office for the forestry person and one for the road permit person. There is a partially finished mosque and the school and health clinic. Compared to Thyou it is a small village.

A church group in Eugene donated a Dell laptop for Georges' brother Maxime who in seminary here in Burkina Faso. I had left it in Ouaga because Rob and James helped convert it to French language and computer programs. Chris had brought it from America. Connie and Chris left lots of gifts and things here, so when they packed their bags to head back to Ouaga, they had room for arts and crafts made by Burkinabe' to take to the USA. Along the route to the capitol we were delayed a half hour because President Blaise Compare's motorcade was due to pass by on the way to Bobo.

We spent the night at Karite' Bleu, a wonderful Bed and Breakfast near the Peace Corps Bureau. We also stopped in the office to meet Dr. Claude and chat with the director, We made two trips to the Village Artisanal before they flew back. What a great visit from home!

THIRD WEEK OF MARCH

I stayed in town a couple days to work on my quarterly report on the computer, which was due. Congo, the security/safety officer for PC showed me on his computer some booty pictures of the criminals who stole my fannypack. We are hoping the police catch the ringleader soon.

I was able also to schedule an appointment for Sali, my neighbor girl for an eye exam. She has one badly crossed eye. Dr. Cole from Vancouver offered to pay for exam and make her glasses for the problem. Her father, Issaka, is diabetic and I gave him Splendid (diabetic sugar) for his coffee. One lunchtime Becky and I were at ISO athletic club for a swim and lunch, which was a nice break. I also got my blog up onto the internet before leaving town.

By midweek I was back in village and to my delight one day the staff was gathered under a tree by the clinic talking with Gansonre. He called out “Landis” and I greeted him. He invited us to come for a visit soon. Thursday morning I met Albertina at the maternity office and we weighed 25 babies all morning. There were a few people on drip medication at the clinic, some were children. So I went home to find some toys and toothbrushes to give them. Dicko, teacher from Sala, came one afternoon for a soccer ball for his class. It is the biggest and nearly the only sport played in Burkina Faso.

I finished “Beloved” this week. What a powerful book that is. Toni Morrison is a gifted writer.

FOURTH WEEK OF MARCH

Sunday was Pelerinage at the Thyou barrage. Five priests officiated at Mass and the congregation made the pilgrimage from our church 2K away and arrived through the trees just like last year. What an impressive sight! Zanabou and I had packed a small bench to sit on for the event. It was a hot day and one woman passed out from the heat. She was put in a car and transported back to Sabou for treatment. We went to the marche' where everyone was celebrating the day with food and drink. I was able to give some photos I had taken to some of my friends.

I visited the patients in the CSPS clinic Monday morning and those waiting for Pre Natal Visits in the maternite', where one woman was in labor. It was still hot. I returned home and got ready to run errands in Thyou. I made several stops and realized I had forgotten to bring my water bottle. I asked for water along the way and was gone a couple hours when I pedaled back home. I wanted to get out of the sun and drink more water. I text the duty officer that I felt dehydrated and Dr. Luc called me right away and said to mix ORS in my med kit and drink it. I had tried to text Angie, but had trouble concentrating. Later she told me it was all in gibberish. I drank one bottle of ORS and sat down on my lipicot and then apparently passed out.

When I woke up at midnight I was in the hospital in Ouaga with Dr. Luc there. He said my neighbor kid found me and called the Major over, who told Dr. Luc I had a high temperature and needed to come to Ouaga as soon as possible. Peace Corps sent a car for me. Country Director sent Jonathan, PCV along with the two drivers to get me. A large number of my neighbors and my language teacher were here concerned about my health. Turns out that I had bronchitis (thus the 105 temp) plus heat stroke, so I spent the next three days in the hospital and the following week in the infirmary at the PCB. I promised the medical staff I would carry water everywhere I go and drink minimum of 4 liters a day, stay inside between 11am and 3pm when the sun is the hottest, and ride on moto for work in satellite villages. I thank God I survived! A special thanks went to Abdoulaye, who found me, the major, who insisted the Peace Corps come after me that evening, and Dr. Luc, who stayed the first night assuring I had emergency care if needed.

RECYCLING

In Burkina Faso all “things” have a number of lives. One can find strips of cloth used for wrapping wounds, or around a bike tire stem to prevent leaking when the innertube is pumped with air. Pagnes (loinclothe) are worn like skirts on women. They are also used as covers at night, or wraps during the long walk to market. Later that pagne may be tailored into a shirt or used to strain liquids used in cooking. Pagnes are curtains, slings for transporting babies, or spread on the path to a religious ceremony much like a red carpet.

Long strips of rubber from big innertubes are a must for attaching anything for transport on bikes and vehicles. Branches off trees may be used for toothbrushes or donkey switches. Arranged in a line on the road, branches are a signal of a stalled vehicle, often a huge camion (truck). Burkinabe' know their trees and leaves well and use them medicinally and in sauces over their main starch, toe or rice.

Medium sized rocks brace vehicles under repair or are used for sitting on in a group meeting. Small rocks fill in potholes or strengthen a worn path. Soil is the main ingredient, along with water and sand for brick making. Sometimes dry straw is added. Long poles are seen in construction of tall buildings as support while cement dries. Poles are used for building fences.

Water is recycled from food preparation, laundering, bathing to moisten compost piles. Any vegetable or animal matter is added to the compost pile. After grains are separated from their stocks, animals get the scraps. Fires are built from previous embers, which easily relight, or small twigs that are fanned into flames. Then small tree/bush branches increase the heat before larger, longer tree limbs, that are continually being adjusted and pushed deeper into the burning fire. (Infinitesimal heat) Flaming sticks are carried by villagers, young and old, to start their fire elsewhere. One sees straw used in same way. Embers fill old fashioned irons to press clothes in Burkina.

While barefoot is common so are flip-flops (some with well worn holes), some with holes repaired with staples or stitching materials. Hats are protection from the sun and rain. Foulards wrap women's hair, but also tightly curled up are a buffer for the myriad things Burkinabe' carry on their heads. Anything with a round shape, children use as wheels on toys they put together to drag, pull and push. They spend hours racing and folling bike tires around.

In this culture where poverty abounds, leftover food is always in demand by someone. Because people walk, there's alsways a need to get things transported in anyway possible. Bush taxi drivers deliver personal communication or money to individuals in villages along their route. As well as chickens, goats, all sorts of cargo. Bikes and motos are regular cargo. Sacks of grain and ground maise, millet, sorghum are ususal as well as cannisters for propane and larger batteries.

After offices discard typing paper, one may get their roadside fried snack wrapped in a page from some document. Newspapers that make it to village are read over by numerous people, then maybe used again to wrap something else in. Cardboard boxes are used many times over, patched together, and finally used a fire fuel at the end of its life. Necessity is the mother of invention when it comes to recycling in Burkina. Now...how to transport this philosophy home.....

First two weeks of April 2009

When I was driven back to village by PC driver Michelle, the whole compound came out to meet me, including the two family chefs, Salame and Hamadou. Minata and Aminata, my closest neighbors hugged me, as did many others. The 50 plus kids of our quartier were also there celebrating my return. Garrett came right over after his pkg and to say welcome back, as did Georges, my language teacher. Georges brought food, a meal Laurentine had prepared: fish, tomatoes, cabbage with bread and mangoes for dessert. That evening I slept on my porch on my cot and the neighbor girls all came over to sleep there with me on their mats. Sleeping under the stars and moon is healing too.

Zanabou and I pedaled to church, where the congregation was gathering on the bluff for palms to process to the church hangar for Palm Sunday service. As we neared our path home afterwards, a 4x4 was stopped near the Sala barrage. The people in the vehicle were from NGO working with Ghana and Burkina Faso on projects regarding bodies of water. Interesting!

That Monday I went to the CSPS clinic and spoke to everyone there, they were happy to see me. I thanked them all for their help two weeks earlier when I took ill. I greeted the new accoucheuse and went by the two eateries to greet my friends, Awa and Fati. That week the kids carried my water home and watered the Moringa trees for me on my porch. The girls pampered me by doing my dishes and sweeping out my house.

During my language lessons, I translated American student letters into French to give the Burkina students. It is good practice and rather tedious.

When I returned home from Ouaga I brought another roll of fencing, so when Karim came to visit, I talked with him about securing the fence so that we can replant the Moringa trees next to the maternite'. He agreed to get new taller posts for the fence, which will be twice as high now.

That Thursday when I was at the clinic weighing babies, the Country Director, Doug came to pay a visit. He was happy to see I was doing better. He called my place “homey” and esp liked the shelves Chris had built me. After stopping at Garrett's, his circuit took him next to KDG to visit 4 PCVs there.

One evening I had a simple tea party with my neighbor girls. This occasion was enhanced with the Girl Scout cookies, Connie left me. I shared with the kids that we have tea parties at my house in America for all the young relatives. They could get into that I believe.

Saturday Abdoulaye and I had all the women in the quartier try on lovely tee-shirts Nancy had kindly sent for them. There were still a few children who had not gotten their shirts so we did them too. The women were so excited they lined up on the veranda waiting their turn to come in and try on their shirt. Everyone went home happy!

My friend Achille came from KDG for a visit after my stroke, and to make sure my health had returned. That night happened to be Easter vigil at church, which we attended that evening. The service and baptism were taking place by the big bonfire near catechist's house. We proceeded to the hangar thereafter for a three hour lovely service. {See photos.)

It was mid-April when the wind came up and the temperature dropped 15 degrees within an hour before it began raining. Finally a break from all the 100 degree days.

The major drove us 8K to Basmnore' his natal village to do a sensibilisation on hand washing with the 150 students of the school there. The director Nebie' Julien greeted us along with the PTA president and two other officials of the group. They were all there to see the sensibilisation too. Mr. Nebie' brought all three classes together in the largest schoolroom and we set up our causerie. Four volunteers participated in demonstrating proper hand washing to their peers. We encouraged the students to talk with their families about the lesson learned today. The students like the chant and were led through it alternately by Georges and by the school director. I passed out balls of soap for each classroom. We had a photo session outside with all the students, and I can have it blown up like a school photo for them. The PTA group and the major's birth family relatives gave us a chicken as a gift. We also enjoyed benga and mui (beans and rice) there.

Last weeks of April 2009

I needed to go to Ouaga to get my Visa for Ghana and all the trip plans organized. I took the bus from Sabou. I also went to see Manoj, travel agent, who booked my Ghana flight. My charge card did not work for it as I had not informed the company that I would be gone to Africa and so my attempt to charge the trip met with security block. But soon thereafter Angela spoke to the credit card people, who cleared my card for use in Africa.

Back in village I helped weigh babies and then observed a nurse change the dressing on Sita's thumb. Her thumb got pierced in the field, and was infected and swollen badly. I also learned that there was a Tetanus Campaign going on this week, as directed by the Minister of Health. That meant I would need to reschedule a sensibilisation at Zao School for the students until the following Wednesday.

That evening I received a visit from Georges and his brother, Maxime, who came from the city of Bobo. I was happy to give Maxime the laptop computer donated by the church group in Eugene, Oregon for his use in his seminary work. I explained to him that my PCV friends took the laptop to a store in Ouaga, the capitol, for changing the English keyboard into French. Then my friends (all computer whizzes) installed the French computer programs for him. The seminarians have to write out their personal history and Maxime told me that all the candidates, but him, have computers they use. His joy was a pleasure to witness.

First week of March 2009

On Friday the school was having a theater group perform a skit on health issues. The district in Bougnounou had set it up. We went to watch, and see if it dovetailed our sensibilisations, which it did. The PTA group was there with many elders from the quartiers, as was the village chef. The local student actors did a fine job with the hygiene theme. The focus was on hand washing and cleaning the dishes before preparing and eating meals. The “father” didn't want the children changing his behavior, so was resistant to the information. But as one after another of his children got ill, he went into action. First buying medication from street vendors, later taking them to the clinic for appropriate help. The kids imitating the adults was hilarious. Everyone enjoyed the performance. (See photos.) The district education official spoke to the parents at length afterwards.

This week I gave Abdoulaye, my 15 yr old neighbor boy, an apple. His first ever! He loved it. Fati, 11 wrote Connie a letter, thanking her for coming to Africa and asking for a backpack, flip flops and skirt and blouse, all for school. I took Zanabou to church one Sunday, as she enjoys the service. En route we stopped down the hill where the neighbors and some paid laborers are building Issaka's new house. (See photos.) Several nights the sky lit up with thunder and lightening. I would sit outside an hour in the evenings to observe the beautiful show!

That week we did two school sensibilisations, one at Salo and one at Zao. Georges borrowed a moto from a friend, Koala Jean for the first trip to Salo (8K), and we took the teachers each a Moringa seedling. They were so glad we came. We talked with the younger students (87) first and there were four volunteers for demonstrating proper teeth brushing to their comrades. Then the older ones (100) were all together and we had eight volunteers. Both groups loudly sang the chant from our last talk with them. They obviously enjoyed learning it. I left student letters from Harmony School in Vancouver for them to write to pen pals. I encouraged the teachers who wanted to write to the teachers at Harmony as well.

The next day we again borrowed a moto from CSPS to travel to Zao School (15K). We filled it with gas and oil, and text the director of the delay. He gave a French answer “Pas de Probleme!” that one hears daily in Burkina. Once we arrived we did two presentations, one for the younger grades and one for the older. After we put up our demo posters, the director had us remain in that classroom and he changed the students. Thus we didn't move. There were also two preschoolers underfoot and a newborn goat in the classroom, which proved interesting.

We talked with the students about proper nutrition, teeth brushing, and had examples of hard things that break teeth, i.e. metal, bone, glass, rock, etc. They agreed they all have some family or neighbors with missing or broken teeth, and we expressed our hope that with daily care they make it to old age with all their teeth healthy. When we got to the chant, Kuba, the director thought up lyrics for this causerie: “Si tu veux la bonne sante', broussez-toi les dents; A patte dentrifriche, broussez-toi les dents” (to “Michael row your boat ashore”).

I gave the student letters with drawings attached, addressed to the Zao students to the director and the other teachers from Harmony Elementary. Several teachers complimented us on the presentation and were happy we came there. Kuba invited us to his house next to the school for lunch of to' and sauce with green leaves and rabbit in it. He cut up fresh mangoes for dessert. I was content to be able to visit these small villages for student sensibilisations before going to Ghana next week.

BON ANNEE! 2009

I biked with Henry Kiemtore' to church for Mass at the wee hour of 6am. Father Casmir was officiating, Georges was leading the choral group. Morning Mass was good, in the freshness of the day.

This evening Sister Mary hosted a surprise dinner party for Sr. Amy's birthday. The priests from St. Luc's and some workers at the CREN and I were all invited. In the evening when I arrived the young nuns were playing with Tiiga, their cat and a new puppy. Right now the cat has size advantage, but won't for long. Sister Mary had prepared a wonderful spread, commencing with soup, a broth of herbs and tiny carrot pieces, then onto baked tomato stuffed with rice. The main dish was quiche with meat pieces nested on top, and chicken both fried and baked. We had tossed green salad and local French bread accompanied by wine and bissap. Dessert was chocolate cake! Paul, the accountant, opened champagne and we all toasted Sr. Amy. It was a jolly meal.

After dinner was the entertainment. We sat in a semicircle at the large open area in the dining room and watched a skit the sisters prepared. Paul was the voice of God (coming from the next room) and Sr. Amy was the one who heard the voice while praying. The other two nuns snuck into prayer and Voila! also heard the voice of God. It ended in laughter.

Then the music portion of the fun evening started. Drums, guitar, and singing in several languages. Father Rene' from Bobo, a Camilian friar and a seminarian from Ouaga made up the group. It was such fun. They recalled holiday songs from their youth and all chimed in.

The next morning Sr. Amy gave me a tour of the CREN. She is now the director of the facility, while Sr. Mary is overall manager of the order and their work. She is also the doctor for the CREN. Sr. Mary told me her nephew Arnold is coming from France and they want to come to my village for a visit. I left there for the Grotto next to the parish of St. Luc, and met a woman there praying, who has been the midwife in Thyou for 9 years. She is a warm, friendly person. I teased with her about sitting close enough to her, that a little of her grace would flow to me.

I took in the marche' at Sabou before heading back to Sala. I ordered a woven flat top for my canary. I also loaded up on produce Thyou does not have.

03 January 09

Today is the marche' in Thyou, and I realized that my left leg can't handle a lot of walking. I was nearly in tears walking the several blocks to pick out vegetables and fruits and condiments. So I will delegate that to someone else until the pain goes down. It has been a +3 and 4 this whole week.

05 January 09

I visited my neighbor Sita and her baby at the clinic this morning. The one year old had her third treatment for malaria and was sleeping peacefully during my visit. The major told me the baby has Palu (malaria) Grave, with convulsions. She will go to hospital in Koudougou if not better rapidly.

I shared information on the CREN with the major and explained the expansion they plan: adult section opens in February and the Emergency Room to add to the laboratory and pharmacy which are open now along with the malnutrition center where mothers and babies stay a month until improved.

It was 5pm when Syrille came on moto with George for dinner. Syrille is a special friend and we are pleased he agreed to come. They greeted Hamadou, the chef of my compound, then Minata, my neighbor and landlady. I showed him my bulletin board full of pictures of my family in America and here. We drank dolo and played Uno for a time before eating. We had big salad, bread, rice with peanut sauce. They were in awe of my can opener and peeler from America. The neighbors came over to enjoy the visitor as well.

06 January 09

Mid morning a man I recognize as a neighbor was visiting with another man outside and held a paper so close to his eyes that his nose touched what he was looking at. I remembered that I had 2 extra pair of glasses in my trunk, so I got the ones with slight correction and offered them to him. He was so grateful, he thanked me in two languages. Later that day I saw him wearing the glasses, and gave him a cleaning tissue for them and case. All those bins/baskets in USA for donating glasses go exactly to this kind of person. Giving only works when there is someone in need to give to!

When I went to clinic today I talked with the major about my desire to have talks and demonstrations with the school children in nearby Thyou as well. Sala, my village and Thyou are sister villages and the communities are very interwoven. He agreed to this plan, as it is not in the same Health District and needs his blessing. I gave him my written COGES (health board) report to which he said “C'est bon!”

On the way home from the market today we went to the north end of Thyou to talk with the school staff about my desire to sensibilize their students about health issues. We agreed on tomorrow. Then we stopped by L'ecole Centre in Thyou for the same request. I had my language lesson in Moore' afterwards.

The next day we arrived at Yaoghin School near Thyou by 9am and discovered that Abdoulaye, my major's son is the first grade teacher there. We met with the director Claude and also noted that the parents group was meeting outside under a tree. The staff organized the two youngest classes, CP1 and CP2 on a huge ancient rock outside for the talk. They responded very well to the hygiene lesson of washing the hands, and especially like the song we taught them. It turned out we talked with three large groups there with a total of 350 students. (See photos.)

We proceeded to Yargo School north of Thyou and repeated the whole process with another three large groups, but held indoors. It ran into their lunch break, but they seemed ok with it. Here there were 400 students. They want the soap balls I offered to bring back for each classroom to use at school. Soap balls are available at the marche' six for 500 francs.

08 January 09

When I went to the maternite' this morning for baby weighing, the women started coming in large numbers with their infants. The assistant nurse and I worked all morning weighing 50 babies and recording the information in both the main book and on the individual cards. Things were going so fast and this got tricky for me because I recorded in the wrong booklet for one family and that took some time to undo. I resorted to writing the weights on a scratch pad asap. The main nurse came to do prenatal checks on several pregnant women. He also was trying to clip the tongue of a 2 yr old, that the mother held in her lap. It was a struggle, so I held his head still for the quick procedure. It was a busy morning!

The next day at my language lesson I began the 3rd year French reader and then we went over our causerie on dental hygiene by practicing with a Nim branch. One peels back about an inch of bark and sucks on the end until it is wet and stringy, then it is ready to scrub the teeth up and down with the natural bristles that makes. It takes practice! But is indigenous to the African culture.

The next day I packed up the peanuts Minata was sending to Dr. Claude, and my bags to go to Ouaga for my mid-service conference, physical exam & work on my quarterly report for Peace Corps. For my physical I had to get an EKG due to my being over 50 they said. Whew! the ticker is fine! Next I had a scheduled Physical Therapy appt. Mr. Forogo placed the sensors differently, to see if there was a solution to why my left leg hurts so much. He applied hot packs too. He tested my legs after all that, rotating them and said it was sciatic nerve problem. He then said I need to stay in Ouaga for daily treatment for a week to reduce problem. Eventually the PT assistants showed me a new exercise pushing my left knee across my body while my left ankle rested on my right knee.

16 January 09

I had another appt with PC doctor for general check up and discuss my leg pain. He ordered a CAT scan. He gave me a lower back exercise booklet and said not to lift over 20 lbs. By Thursday that week things had improved a little. I went again to Dr. Luc Friday morning for his review of the medicine he switched me to and the extra rest and exercise routine. He also checked degree of mobility and said it is mild sciatic nerve problem. Doing treatment now will prevent it from becoming moderate.

I left the PC Bureau to bike back to the Transit House where I stay in Ouaga. En route I wanted to get lunch so I biked to Chez Carlos, a schwarma stand in the neighborhood about 1pm. Two young men on a moto came up behind me, the driver caught my eye as he went by. Then I realized he slowed so the second guy got off and unsnapped my fanny pack in back. When I felt that I screamed loud, which scared them and they both took off, the driver on the moto and the snatcher on foot with my bag in his hand. I kept screaming like I had learned in “Women's Strength”class that the voice is a weapon to be used in these circumstances. The whole neighborhood came outside, people on foot and bike stopped and all wanted to help. I was shaking like a leaf, but most everyone was so helpful.

Around the corner and down two blocks the neighbors pinned the snatcher down until the police came for him. He had thrown my bag in the bushes by then and hiked over a fence into a parking lot and hid under a vehicle. The neighbors told me that they are sick and tired of the theft and robbery taking place in their middle class neighborhood and want it to stop. They sure demonstrated it today. They sent word to me that they recovered my fanny pack with camera, cellphone, money, ID, flash drives etc. and soon delivered it to me. Nothing was missing.

I called the PCB and they came right there (6 blocks) and we reviewed the crime scene. They talked to two house guards who had witnessed the whole thing due to my yelling I think. Congo and I went down to the police station to identify the snatcher. There were about a dozen guys sitting on the floor there waiting to get booked in. We went to an officer's room so he could take a report of the incident. The snatcher revealed the name of his cohort and the police said they have been looking for him for a long time. What a day!

That Saturday I took a bike path around the National Park spotting alligators, peacocks and a reserve of small animals. Some turtles there were over 100 years old. (See photos.)

20 January 09 Inauguration Day in America

I had an early appointment with Dr. Luc and Sylvie, the PC medical team in Burkina Faso to discuss my sciatic nerve problem and how to care for it in village. They will bundle up my new prescriptions and a box of hot packs for use when I am released tomorrow to return to my village. Of course I am to continue with my lower back exercises. Dr. Luc checked my throat which really hurts, but found nothing. When I left there I took a taxi to the Bureau de Sante' to find charts for teeth brushing demo I want to do next in the schools. The health dept sent me to the hospital next door which has a dental section, and they referred me to WHO (World Health Organization). I was given posters and booklets for the school director by the head person there. Visual aids are very useful with the students.

I was near the American Embassy then, where all the volunteers were spending the next few hours watching the swear in of Barack Obama as the 44th President of the United States. The number of people there in DC to witness the event in person was overwhelming, all waving flags. Obama was measured, serious, grateful and spoke without notes. Yoyo Maw and Isaac Stern and pianist played. A poem was written and recited by the president of Yale. Spectacular!

Becky and I were reliving it over a brew around the corner from TH, and an African named Dennis came over to us to tell us how proud he was that Obama appealed to all people watching. Dennis says now he is inspired to visit America. In his zeal he bought a round.

Lots of people came over to my house to welcome me back to village on January 21. That Thursday I weighed 41 babies, but needed help keep the health booklets straight, so the women came to my aid. There were 3 women from my quartier there too. The nurse came to do the necessary vaccinations.

26 January 09

We three, Saidou, Karim and I biked to Gannsin quartier, 5K from Sala for sensibilisation on malaria this morning. It was an hour later when enough people (60) had gathered to begin. Meanwhile we met with the family chef, Ouedraogo Boukari. The talk regarding the disease went smoothly. The comments from the villagers were that they don't have enough money for mosquito nets and they get bit in the fields too, not just at night. Heather is sending me more nets from IKEA. We three visited a while at my house after returning from causerie.

Thursday I worked with the new nurse on baby weighing day, she gave shots and Gilbert recorded the information. Only ten women with infants showed up, but I weighed them all. I did notice that the maternite' was cleaned up and the new books for 2009 were there to write in.

Friday I visited the several patients on drip IVs at the clinic and talked with the major too. Another young nurse is here today named Emilie, having just finished school in KDG.

I worked on translating stories in my 3rd reader and also a bible story regarding Isaac. During my lesson we worked on dialogs which was fun. Then we spent the afternoon at the big market day in Thyou.

31 January 09

Georges had scheduled our sensibilisation on hand washing at the Central School in Thyou this Saturday morning. We met there at 9am and the headmaster organized one big group of CM1 and CM2, who understood my French. Voila! It went well but we couldn't do the other 4 classes because the students were practicing the national anthem to sing at the inauguration of the new police station in Thyou at noon. We attended and got very good seats near the front for the ceremony. Six or eight car loads of dignitaries came from Ouaga then the ceremony began. There was singing, dancing and speeches during the fete. The very popular mayor had the longest speech. He had greeted me earlier and said we would talk further. He seemed pleased with the progress of his village to have a new security agent. Thyou celebrated the rest of the day, as did we.

First week of February 09

When I pedaled home one evening and found Minata sitting under the hangar out front of our duplex, I asked her about the fires in the fields set at dusk oftentimes. She described that the ashes are used for a brine to make potash used in cooking beans. It reduces the gas. I told her I want to learn how to make it, because I love the beans and rice they make here..

The family chef Hamadou rode with me to the CSPS next morning. He brought his X-rays taken in KDG to show the major. We went in together to consult about his lower back pain. The major said take the prescription he already had and it will get better.

The major told me the goats ate all the leaves on the Moringa trees. Ooh la, la! My neighbor Sita told me mites were in the new trees on my veranda, so I sprayed them with Rambo insecticide, hoping to resolve that problem. My counterpart Karim told me he would have some villagers repair the fence to keep the goats out.

Sala villagers are discouraged that a wealthy man in Thyou is running water from their barrage to his personal garden. Our village chef Adama is traveling to KDG tomorrow for a meeting about the issue. Locally there have been a number of meetings to resolve it, now it will get attention at the next level.

During my language lesson at the Thyou barrage I photographed a shepherd with many beef. They were drinking water there. Everything living shares the water.

Thursday Gilbert and I weighed 37 babies, including the twins from Bolo born June 24. They are very tiny still, Albertine is 4.7K and Albert is 4.2K. I photographed them and told the parents, Ally and Bapan, I would find them in Bolo and give them pictures when I come there next.

While at the maternite' we shortened the Moringa tree to 6' in the solarium, so it is reachable for harvesting the leaves.

At Ouaga our Food Security core members met for planning of our big meeting on the weekend. We did this over dinner at La Jardineire. It was good and reasonable.

I prepared our lunch for the meeting, making a tossed green salad, toasted French bread and spaghetti, with a sauce containing dried Moringa leaves full of vitamins and minerals. (See photo.) As we were having six new interested members join our food security group, we four each gave a brief slide presentation on Moringa and our work in village on this project. We also discussed with them the positions open on the committee. This bigger new group is a welcome change with a lot of ideas and energy!

Saturday evening Angie skyped me with a surprise group of my friends and relatives to talk together. They were enjoying lunch together and I got to see and talk to each one of them. I love this new technology, which brings family and friends together instantly

Second week of February 09

While in Ouaga I priced with a tailor the cost of having my Easter dress made—17 mille, very expensive. I managed two more physical therapy appointments while there too. On Tuesday while returning south on the highway towards Bobo, the driver Bouba stopped for a man on a stretcher, who had a seriously injured leg and was going to Sabou. Transport in BF is any and everything. Difficult! When my taxi brousse dropped me at Thyou, I went home and got Adama to help me get my boxes home. We each tied a couple on our bikes to get there.

Wednesday I visited with the major at the clinic to tell him of my Moringa meeting in Ouaga. There were several patients on drip feeds. The major mentioned his natal village and wants us to do sensibilisation for the students at the school there, where the teacher Nebie' Julien is director. We talked about the VIH sensibilisation this Friday and the sensibilisation at Central School in Thyou on Saturday. I also met with the new accoucheuse Albertina. She is tall, pretty and very friendly.

At market I inquired from Marie who she and her daughters use for a tailor and one of the children showed me the place. I ordered my Easter dress there, 4 mille. He had trouble understanding my French, but we managed the transaction.

Thursday we weighed the 8 babies that came in and sent 3 more home because they were too young to be weighed. The accoucheuse recorded the information and she has added measuring height to the program, which pleases me. We can then use a grid for weight and height to determine whether the child is malnourished. I visited with the two new nurses, Bibata and Emilie.

At my language lesson, we studied a Moore' reader and did 5 simple lessons. Then I read one from the French reader.

Friday was the main quartier sensibilisation in Sala-Weeg Yiri. Karim and Saidou were to my house early so we could gather our things and meet Garrett for the VIH-SIDA (HIV-AIDS) talk. By 10 we were at the bottom of my hill close to the big tree down there. The chef had the mechanic clear out his hangar for the talk. People started coming and within 30 minutes we had enough people (60) to begin. Garrett and I spoke in French which Saidou translated into Moore' for the villagers. We talked about the disease, how it is contracted, prevention and education. When we got to the condom demo there were a few snickers, but at the end no questions.

We went to my house to debrief, and it was an enlightening discussion. Karim wanted to know where the virus began and we said Africa. He had heard that it began when a monkey slept with a woman and gave her the illness. Garrett, who understands their French, responded that has been disproven a long time ago. Karim said a second theory he heard is that it began in the Congo when someone didn't cook monkey meat well enough. Karim also wanted to know if there is a vaccinations for AIDS. We answered him “No”.

On Saturday I scurried to get everything ready to meet Georges at Ecole Centre in Thyou for sensibilisation on hand washing. The teachers were all sitting under a big tree before the school bell rang. We began with CE classes, which went well and the teacher helped too. The students loved the song, and Georges practiced with them until they had the chant down.

Then we had an older group, CM and they picked it up very fast. The CP classes were out of school early this day, but had lingered long enough that we met with them outside under a couple trees and went over the causerie quickly. When the volunteers came to do their demo for their comrades, one boy nearly put his hands down in the dirty water, but caught himself. The teacher stood outside with us and shooed the big kids away so we could meet with the youngsters. I left a ball of soap for each classroom.

Third week of February 09

Aminata was building a new house. She was already making mud in the morning and hauling it to the mason, where workers, 4 men and 4 teens were lining up the bricks for her one room hut. Some children were also helping. When one builds anything here the neighbors volunteer their time too. It took most of the day to get all the bricks laid, then the mud mortar dried in the sun.

(See photos.) Later that day I photographed Karim, Sofi and their mother and baby near the construction site. Zanabou had come from Cote d'Ivoire to visit them.

I conversed with the major about the water chart he said he had for our upcoming talk with Sune' villagers. I also asked when the pump next to CSPS will be unlocked. Seems the water table is low and the clinic pump needs to be reserved for its use. He is sending the people over to the next pump for water. He does open the pump for several hours each morning tho.

He was talking with the accoucheuse when I found him, and I excused myself to pedal to church. She asked where St. Irene's Catholic Church is and soon followed me on her moto. As I returned home afterwards I saw quite a large crowd gathered at the mosque in Thyou, unusual for a Sunday and learned that a funeral service was happening. (See photo.)

In the afternoon I hear women singing and approaching our quartier. Dozens of women were coming to congratulate Alizeta on her graduation from the Koran school. The fun of it drew me closer. When I got to the other side of our compound I found Minata and Yondougma chanting and dancing, so I joined them. The women greeted the family chef Salam as they arrived. It was a merry time and I captured some of that in the photos.

When my sister Connie called that evening to tell me she and Chris have tickets to come here I was overjoyed!

I had the major review my talk on teeth brushing, which he said looked fine. He and Emilie are going to Sune' for vaccinations. I also spoke to his son, Oussmane who says he's still watering the Moringa trees next to the maternite'. We want to encouraged them to sprout from the root system. I practiced my presentation one more time that day, when Georges came with 20 Nim sticks. He also had a couple props we will use in demo, glass and bones. I prepared a sack of school supplies and things to take to Sune'.

It rained during the night, but Georges said the first rain does not make mud, so we can go ahead to Sune' 24K away. We left for the causerie at 8:40am, but on the way we had a flat tire on the moto. Luckily the hut nearby was that of a mechanic, who had us on our way in 20 minutes. When we arrived at Sune' School the directeur Dieudonne, gathered all his 95 students into one group for the sensibilisation. We taped our dental posters from WHO to the blackboard and most students understood French but Georges translated into Moore' for the younger ones. We showed them sodium powder, ground salt and toothpaste as options to use. We asked if they knew anyone with missing or broken teeth or obvious cavities in their families or friends. We stressed brushing teeth after every meal. We showed them the things that can damage teeth when put in the mouth: glass, bones, metal, rocks, and very hard candies. After we demonstrated proper teeth brushing with Nim and brushes, we asked for and got 6 volunteers for them to show their comrades how to do it.

For our first talk on this,it went relatively smoothly. At the conclusion I asked the students if they remembered the song we taught them last time regarding hand washing They immediately sang it for us. They were very excited about the school donations.

Next we motoed further into Sune' and met the villagers for a follow up talk on diseases caused by bad water. We found the major and Emilie there finishing up the vaccinations. By 1pm we had enough villagers to begin our talk with them. We had a flip chart provided by the major to discuss how to keep the area around water clean. I gave the ASC a bottle of bleach to share with others. 8 drops per 10 liters of water kills microbes/bacteria. The villagers had two questions in the discussion phase; how to get a second well in village, and how to get help with disease of the eyes, which they relate to this problem. We stressed boil drinking water, add bleach and write a letter to the Bureau de Sante' with request for second well. They thanked us for coming as they are so remote, they get few visitors.

Thursday there were 3-4 women waiting to have infants weighed and vaccinated. The accoucheuse said I should start. I found the right card before I weighed each baby so I wouldn't get mixed up again. I wrote the info right away too. None of the babies this morning cried when we worked together on this, and some even smiled at me. I relayed the baby's weight to each mother in Moore' numbers of kilo and grams. I checked their vaccination record and piled up the ones who were in need, and Bibita came later and vaccinated that handful.

Friday I had a PC site visit by Congo Harouna, security manager and Jean Luc, physician. The driver Oussmane checked over my bike, while the rest of us discussed safety of my house and some general integration and health question. They also talked with the major, who spoke favorably about my work and outreach into the communities. Congo said he went to school with the mayor of Thyou. He also plans to stop at the new police office and introduce self as two of us volunteers live close by.

At the marche' that day we spoke to Ky Simplice, director of Salo School. He needs a soccer ball soon. I told him when my box gets here from America it will be in it. He invited me to come to the game the next morning between Salo and Bolo, held in our own village of Sala. He wants me to kick the ball in. What an honor! But there were some chuckles and jokes when two adult sized kids showed up to play in the game. I greeted the line of players, before I kicked the ball in. It was a fun game to watch.

I took transport to Rob's village Bawiga. He met me at dusk and we biked to his village, 7K on beautiful paved highway, and 4K into bush. We almost got home before I fell in a rut and gashed my foot,which I bandaged when we got home. Along the way we stopped to greet his major at home. Then the theater group was hanging out at Rob's for the HIV-AIDS skit they had planned for this weekend. A teacher and conseillor were there too and they all had dinner ready-Riz Gras. We turned in after a long day.

Fourth week of February 09

Rob loves to cook and made Roots of Antioch porridge for breakfast that was quite good. The young men's theater group were meeting with the functionairres from village to discuss the performance this weekend. They decided to postpone it for a month because a prominent person in village had 13 beef stolen, which put a damper on the village spirit. Rob gave me the tour of the clinic, pharmacy, his Moringa forest project, etc. The Bawiga marche' is literally out his front door. We looked that over too and sat for dolo with some of his village friends. Then we found a hangar run by Poule women, who made us fresh zoomkoom, with sugar and ginger. It was a relaxing day.

On Monday we were biking to transport when we saw a camilian, and took many photos of it.

It changed colors while we were watching. Taxi brousse didn't go to Sabou today, so I caught a bus to Leo. When I got there I got a room at Auberge Natou with Casey's help because the next taxi brousse there leaves at 6am Tues morning. Leo is known for having ignames (big root plant like potato) grown in Cote d'Ivoire 3 for 750F. I found a salad place and the guy made an amazing green salad with lettuce, red onions, tomatoes, cukes and avocado with dressing and bread—300F.

I rose early Tuesday to be in good time for the taxi. As I arrived at the gare at 5:10am, it was pulling out! It stopped for me to get on. Time is relative in Burkina Faso. More passengers boarded along the route, until it was a packed car. By 9:30 we had drove the 100K to Sala. The mechanic's sons helped me up the hill to my house. I checked in with the major to tell him of my visit with Rob. The major called the director of Bansmnore' School and we set a date for sensibilisation with the students there.

The marche' in Thyou has dolo flowing today-Fat Tuesday because tomorrow Lent starts and there will be no beer. After that I went to visit Garrett and talk about the trip to Rob's. Garrett made rice and tomato sauce with lots of veggies and we ate dinner together. Wednesday I pedaled to church for the traditional ashes on my forehead.

Thursday was baby weighing and Albertina the new accoucheuse had made a measuring area on the corner of the two cement benches in the waiting room. That day we took the height of all the babies weighed. That made me so happy as we could then graff the malnourished child by chart and supplement the diet with a protein pack, plus coach the mother. We weighed 23 babies that morning. Albertina gave one particularly tall baby being raised by his aunt, a supplement because he was orphaned, which contributed to no weight gain..

In the afternoon Issaka came over to tell me he is going back to Cote d'Ivoire for a month. He told the school teacher that I have permission to take Sali to Ouaga for an eye exam soon. Dr Cole in Vancouver offered to pay for exam and make a pair of glasses for her. I took a picture of Sali I will forward to Dr. Cole showing her cross eyed.

Friday was the beginning of the polio campaign, when medical staff go door to door in the villages to vaccinated all the young children for polio. The accoucheuse, Gilbert, and I walked all over central Sala, even to my compound. It was so interesting to visit people in their own environment. I got to mark the pinky on the children, while Gilbert marked on the outside wall of the compounds how many children were vaccinated out of the potential number of children fitting the criteria.

I asked the major to take a bundle of yellow t-shirts to KDG to give to my friend, Achille to write numbers on them for the soccer team from Bengre'. The major's son is the team coach. Competition is coming up soon.

Saturday the polio campaign continued. I was later getting to the clinic and my team had left, so I asked the major which route they took. He said go right, past the school and into the bush. I did that and finally asked some kids where they went and they were kind enough to lead me one kilometer to find them. When we found them, they were on moto, so no wonder it took me a while. We went past the barrage to Paul and Odeille's home and I got to see Ingrid again. She had been at the CSPS with malaria a couple months ago. At the next house women were slicing tomatoes to dry.

Tomorrow I go to Ouagadougou to meet Chris and Connie on the plane from America! Yeah!

RELIGION

In December in Burkina Faso several religious holidays are observed by Muslims and Christians respectively. Advent and Noel (Christmas) are closely regarded spiritual observances by Christians, whereas Tabaski and a Pilgrimage to Mecca (in the twelfth lunar month) are revered by Muslims. I have seen indications of worship as an intricate part of everyday life in Burkina Faso. Muslims make time for the five prayers times during their day no matter where they are. Christians bless themselves before drinking water, beer, soda, etc. and they nearly always pray before meals. These practices and others give God/Allah a significant presence in the daily lives of the Burkinabe'.

It is clear to me people recognize a personal God/Allah as well as group and public worship of God/Allah in the traditional liturgical practice in BF. Within everyday Moore' conversation there is frequent reference to God: when rain comes “Wend na kita ni”- May God bring rain; when someone travels “Wend na siki/lebg laafi”- May God be with you going/returning in travel; when New Year's comes “Wend na ko veere”- May God give you another year; when illness comes “Wend na ko laafi”- May God heal you.

The self discipline for religious practices in all faiths is obvious. For Islam, my awareness increased dramatically during my three months in training at the town of Ouahigouya, I would awaken near 4am each morning to the beautiful chant of a Muslim voicing the pre-dawn prayer. For Christians, I notice as I bike 3K to my church in the next village, dozens, sometimes hundreds of villagers walking the same dirt road to the church hangar for service. Some members come from their homes much farther than that. Another outward sign of devotion is the singing, both in volume and in near total participation by the congregations of the Assembly of God and Catholic churches.

It appears with life and death matters for Burkinabe' underlies a deep faith and acceptance of the majesty and power of God/Allah. What impresses me most is how religion permeates daily life here, where citizens can practice Animism, Islam and Christianity side by side with visible respect and tolerance for individual beliefs.

01 December 09 Monday

Today the week long campaign for Yellow Fever vaccinations begins. When I arrived at the CSPS clinic at 8 am there were already long lines of students with teachers patrolling (branches in hand in case they needed to get a student's attention). The ASC was there doing crowd control as well. (See photos.)

The Major and his wife from KDG, Adja, plus his daughter, Rasmata, and the Concierge, Mamounata were all preparing for the big campaign. My counterpart, Karim was there too. I folded boxes for used syringes, while letting the Major know that I could mix the with the vaccine. The district administrator from the Bouyounou also came for oversight. We worked all morning vaccinating students and villagers as they came. By noon we were exhausted and welcomed the break. Later in the afternoon Gilbert and the Major tallied the people recorded as vaccinated, which turned out to be 1250.

That afternoon I visited the marche' to get the staples and food I needed for the next few days. We greeted the people, in particular Koala Jean, who took us to his family's hangar where his wife and daughter were serving milange. He teased me about coming to America as my comrade. We found pork for sandwiches and the soup for dipping our sandwiches in. Yummy!

Tuesday began equally early for vaccinations. However on this day four men from Sapouy came for oversight, then two green Sante' pickups came with two men each. They observed the process and made sure the vaccine was mixed and applied properly. I gave the Major my quarterly reports for the district doctor at Sapouy, which he in turn gave to the staff from there to deliver. At 12:30 pm we finished and took the afternoon repose and lunch break.

It was nearly 5pm when my tutor came for my lesson. We practiced the Malaria presentation, and discovered a third flip on moustiquaire, which we practiced too. When he left later I asked him to get biscuits for the people and petrol for the moto for the next day.

On Wednesday I had scheduled the sensibilisation on Malaria for the village of Bouyou, and by 9am we were on our way there. We packed up 5 Moringa trees to take along. When we passed Bolo they were setting up there for the marche' that day. We continued on to near the school at Bouyou where Philippe, the nurse was set up under a tree, doing the Yellow Fever vaccinations for the village. I could see he needed help so I offered assistance. There were many persons waiting and three or four village reps helping by writing on the vaccination cards and managing the crowd.

Amidou said after vaccinations we would have causerie, but in fact people were leaving for home and the marche', so at 11:30 he said we should begin the sensibilisation with the 100 people gathered there (half were children). We did the presentation with the flip charts to demonstrate to the villagers the main themes explaining the symptoms and benefits of early medical care for victims. One man, who answered most of the questions I posed to the people, was thrilled when I gave him a moustiquaire for his efforts. When we passed out the biscuits we ended up breaking them into four pieces each so that we could spread the treat among so many people. The questions from the crowd included one on where to get the mosquito nets.

We greeted the teacher and his wife who was preparing salad and haricot verte (green beans) for lunch. They insisted we partake, and we were happy to do so. One of the visitors at lunch had been to KDG and seen Blondy as we had. So we enjoyed reliving that whole event.

04 December 09 Thursday

The little group of regulars showed up for coffee this morning. After that I went to CSPS early, but the vaccinations didn't start until 9am and it was considerably slower, maybe 50 people all together that morning. I chatted with the Major's family at his home that day, and in the afternoon I went to the Thyou marche'. First I stopped by the cellular phone place and conveyed that I had trouble with people hearing me when I speak on the phone. They called Augustine over and he brought his diagnostic devise and determined the microphone in my phone wasn't functioning, so he replaced it for 3 mille. I was happy to have it fixed, as will be the people who call me from home and can't hear me.

We went to sit by the Thyou barrage for my lesson today. I practiced my VIH talk and we studied my French-Moore' reader.

05 December 09

Today is the VIH-AIDS presentation at Salo which I had scheduled in French with Garrett as co-presenter. Of course my tutor came for translation into Moore'. We pedaled to Salo but the crowd had not gathered, so we went to visit Zika Yaoungo's quartier. I had a photo for him and gave him a Moringa tree. He acts like a leader of the community and is respected like a chef. He talked to Garrett about 8 of his children who attend the CEG at Thyou where Garrett teaches, and then some of his children came into the room and Garrett in fact knew one of them and said he is very smart. Zika is a proud parent!

We returned to the village marche' and under the tree where our sensibilisation would be. Oussmane took the bullhorn and went about announcing the sensibilisation is about to begin. By 1:30 in the afternoon we had 20 men, 6 women and 50 children gathered and began the talk. By the time we got to the condom demo we could hear snickers from the group, as Garrett put the condom on the pepper bottle I held for him. The talk sparked questions about a female condom, and also the need to wash hands after removing a condom. It was an interesting causerie, after which Garrett left for benga.

We stayed and visited in the hangars, I took several villager's pictures, and we had chance to causerie. It was good. (See photos.)

On Saturday I stayed home for the most part. Karim and his brother came by to charge his phone battery. They looked through magazines and played cards. During the day I worked on my blog. By late afternoon I started preparing spaghetti dinner for my neighbors. At 5pm the 8 of the children came over for dinner. Minata was not home and their big brother, Essauf came later. They gobbled it down.

On Sunday I prepared pilau in the morning to take to Kiemtore's for potluck dinner. I pedaled against the wind to Mass at the church hangar, so that made me 20 minutes late. There were two groups of singers there today, one young people's group singing in French and the regular church choir in Moore'. George was the reader and played the drums today, a change from his role as choral director. After the service was completed we all went to the catechist's house next to the church, and witnessed the women bring in baskets of harvest they were donating for the seminarians. It filled their storage area.

Little Claude showed me the soccer ball I had given to him, which was really unrecognizable in just 3 weeks. Marie gave me a sack of peanuts. We have much to be thankful about!

08 December 08 TABASKI

This is the joyous Muslim Holiday to celebrate the harvest and mark 90 days since Ramadan. Gradually all the villagers gathered in the soccer field for the service at 9am. Everyone was wearing new outfits, colorful robes and bou-bous, matching pants and tops. Often groups of friends or family wore the same fabric in pleasant repetition. Women and children had new hairdos, intricate braids or a new clip. The voices of the gathered crowd resonated with laughter and excitement, as more and more people filled the ball field. Prayer service naturally facing East was led by a group of 8-10 men, some of whom had been to Mecca. This gathering was much larger than that of Ramadan. The long lines of men, then women and children on mats were assembled for 30 minutes of prayer service. Collection was made close to the end of service. Afterwards people visited together happily admiring each other's costume for the occasion. (See photos.)

As soon as we returned to our compound all the women set about preparing the food for the great feast. I was served Zoomkoom while I watched my neighbors prepare sauce and began processing three huge containers of millet for to'. I managed to visit all the huts in my two compounds: Sonata, Sampoko, Sita, Alizetta, and Mariam among others. I found Lizetta, Mariam #2, Salimata and the premiere femme at home. Each man, Salam and Hamadou, greeted me in their respective compounds. “Wend na Ko Veere'”. Bon Fete! I ate at four places. A nap “repose” followed.

Tradition is that one visits neighbors and friends also on this feast. I went to the Major's home, awaiting his return, and enjoyed Zoomkoom with Rasmata, and some of the children. Then I was served Riz Gras with delicious meat. When the major arrived with Aja from KDG, we all visited. I learned their daughter is getting married December 20 in KDG, and they invited me to the event. Soon Georges arrived with a gift for the Major, who in turn gave me a Pintarde. Wow! (See photo.)

There was another round of visiting that we did at the school teacher's home. They served up spaghetti with sauce, and rice and sauce along with more Zoomkoom. We ended the day at my place listening to music with neighbors who came over.

09 December 08

After the morning round of people had been to my place for coffee or tea, the children came in for a fun time with ball and jacks. Then I got ready to go to the clinic in the morning. The Major was talking intensely with a grandmother and a child's father as I approached. I learned there was a 7-8 yr old boy with grave malaria at home needing a transfusion. The father was tearful as they left on a bike for Thyou, their village.

The CSPS was not busy this day due to everyone's celebration of Ramadan still lingering in the air. Soon the family returned now with two men crying. Child died? Life and death are so common yet difficult in Burkina Faso.

In the afternoon I studied two lessons in the “French book for learning in 20 lesson” and enjoyed the sentence composition exercises to practice my word placement. While we ate dinner, the Major's son came with a written invitation to the family wedding later in the month. Seeing a traditional Muslim wedding will be a huge experience.

The next day when I arrived at the clinic there weren't many patients. The major said the people are at the Grand Marche' following Tabaski today. It's a good idea to go early. I decided it would be a good time to visit my friend, Silvie, at her hangar. When I got there she served me her dolo and said she had gotten the two shirts I left on a hook by her front door for her. Then I went to lunch with Koala Jean, Chirille, and Georges at the catechist's pork stand. I also visited with his sons, Claude and Barnard and his helper Irene'. Our friend, Prosper was there. The teachers from Salo were there talking about school issues together with their director, Ky. It was all very social. About that time Lorraine called and I was happy to hear the news from home talking to my best friend.

11 December 08

I wanted to arrive at maternite' by 8am when it was time to weigh babies. The clinic was full. Presently Gilbert came there and showed me how to record the weight in the big book and also on the individual health cards the families brought along. He asked me to stack the cards of the ones who need to wait for vaccination that day, and he would be back to do that. And he did return two different times to vaccinate children. I recorded each of those in the vaccination book for the particular village. For two hours I weighed babies alone. When the Major came by once I asked for pronunciation of one of the new baby names, but also the women there made it easy for me to succeed by explaining to each other what some of them could tell I needed. Burkinabe' are exceedingly patient people. My friends, Salimata, Awa, and Sita from my compound came. Both the Major and Gilbert thanked me several times for helping out when they were short handed this day.

This afternoon a truckload of priests (4) came from Sabou 15K away to offer Reconciliation to the parishioners before Noel. I was encouraged by one young woman to go back where Father Thomas was, because he speaks French, whereas the others were hearing and speaking in Moore'. It seemed he understood me and I understood most of what he said. I asked Georges later for translation of the words Father used: “Il dit la pardon a Dieu de se les uns les autres. Dieu nous guarde nos activite's religieuse pour l'attende de naissance de Jesus. Prie la chapelet.”

I talked with Claude and Barnard the catechist's boys, while I waited for Georges to finish loading the harvest bags for the priests from last Sunday. They were taking them home to St. Luc's Parrouise in Thyou. In the late afternoon we finally got to work on my Moore' lesson.

12 December 08

This morning was to be VIH-AIDS sensabilisation with the Weeg Yiri quartier in Sala, but due to miscommunication it was not to be. I had company to fill my morning. In the afternoon when it was time for my language lesson, Georges brought over the pintarde I received from the Major. It was ready to cut up and cook. I wanted to fry it in pesto seasoning. So I put that on while we had our lesson. Since Georges was in Sabou that morning he picked up makings for a salad, lettuce, onions, tomatoes, cucumber, etc. which I topped with an Italian dressing. It was a rewarding meal.

Saturday morning we headed to Dana by 9am. I stopped by CSPS to check on the phone number for the ASC at Dana because I never heard back from the AA. I text the new found number and let Garrett know too as he will arrive at 11am for the talk as planned. In the meantime when Georges and I got to Dana with Moringa trees for the chef and two AAs, we found the chef at the hangar. He treated us to a calabasse of dolo and invited us to his house in his compound. That was very interesting. In there he had a quiver of arrows and a bow, two rifles (used mostly in ceremonies), lots of maise drying overhead, red millet, horns etc. He posed for some pictures. (See photos.) He then gave me a beautiful chicken of variegated brown colors.

All of a sudden his premiere femme chased him around the courtyard with a stick in jest for having another woman in his house. Everyone was laughing by then.

We returned to the marche' where Bitiou, Babou, and Zita were collecting people for the causerie on VIH. After noon shortly there were a couple dozen people, so we started the sensibilisation with Garrett taking the lead. The talk went ok and there were some giggles as we got to the condom demonstration. Another man got up and left when the condom demo started. I think it offended his religion. A serious question posed by one man with passion, was “Where are all the people? This is important information that the whole village needs to hear.”

A vendor, Blandine, at the Dana marche' asked for a tank top, which I will leave next Thursday when we come for school sensibilisation. She has befriended me more than once. We were able to stop by the Thyou marche' as well that day as I needed some things One friend of Georges cornered him for a conversation about another friend who had talked his way into George's home, while he was not there and convinced his daughters that he could have 3500 cfa of their father's cash stash. Needless to say, Georges was extremely upset when he confirmed this story with his girls.

14 December 08

I packed for Ouaga in the morning and waited by the roadside for a taxi brousse, as my regular one doesn't transport on Sundays. Within 10 minutes a blue taxi from Leo stopped and we were on our way. The day was pretty much spent at the internet, email and facebook. By 5pm my eyes were computer fatigued, so Becky and I went to the Blue Marlin restaurant and ordered dinner, green beans with garlic in light tomato and onion sauce. Also a steak sandwich. Both very good. When I got back to Transit House, I plugged in my Skype and talked with Ang, Cliff and the kids for over an hour. The call kept getting dropped as we gained experience on using Skype with the camera on. Luke played his baritone at Tub Xmas at Pioneer Square yesterday (his birthday) and then a newsman from ABC interviewed him for a spot on the evening news, too. What a way to highlight becoming a teenager!

On Monday I visited the bank twice before I was able to get a draw on my funds. The power was off while they were working on a huge remodel there. I worked on the computer at the Peace Corps Bureau most of the day. Cyr arranged for Abraham to drive me to buy a “Mousse Speciale produced by Erimetal” (firm medical mattress) in the afternoon. I hope this will be easier for my tired back and leg bones. The foam mattress has a big divot in the middle which is impossible to eliminate. The retail store had one single display model and had to go to the warehouse to get one, which Abraham will pick up tomorrow on our way to catch the taxi brousse for home. I paid the 25 mille and got my receipt.

When we finished shopping I returned to the Transit House, where a frenzy was going on with PCVs going home for the holidays concluding their packing to be ready when the airport taxi came. Other volunteers were helping out as they could. I made Becky and me a salad with French bread to eat. That calmed her somewhat.

When Chris and I talked on Skype later we discovered that the camera on caused our call to drop often, so we turned that off. Plus there is 12 million people on Skype tonight. We also chatted for an hour.

16 December 08

I posted my blog before packing to return to village via the taxi brousse today. Idrisse the driver came early to pick me, my bike, my boxes from home, and my luggage plus my new mattress. Wow! What a load! We unloaded at the station, then I hitched a ride from Idrisse to the bookstore a couple blocks away. I bought two French readers for my lessons. The taxi got home in the usual three hours and I asked Bouba if he could drop me off at end of my path to house, another K down the road. When we got there all the neighbor kids came down and helped me get everything up the hill. Abdoulaye carried the mattress on his head. Garrett came for his boxes right away. Georges paid a visit too. We discussed our causerie tomorrow in Salou, and our trip to KDG Friday for the wedding. It was a good welcome home evening.

After the first night on my new mattress,I will take some adjusting as it is sooo firm. On Wednesday we went to Salou for causeries with the school children about hygiene of handwashing. The school staff did not get the message that we were coming, but they took us right in and we did three sensibilisations in a row, starting with the youngest students. The children liked the demonstration and we easily had volunteers to participate in the handwashing. We left a ball of soap in each classroom for their use. They all liked learning the song. When the upper grades finished their test they came for their causerie. We gave teacher Daniel the school supplies donated by my American friends at home. They asked about the letters from the American school, and we assured them that they were coming.

We aired up my tire in the Salou marche', after lunch On the way home we stopped and took Aminata's bag of millet from her to transport on the bike. She was pleased about that. We got back home content with our work.

18 December 08 Thursday

When I got to the maternite' by 8:30 I discovered that the Major and Philippe were both gone. Gilbert said I could weigh the babies, so I did 21 babies, recording all the written information and setting aside 6-8 cards for those that needed vaccinations. It went smoothly. Soon the Major returned from Sapouy and thanked us for our work.

Karim came in the afternoon for a visit. We visited. He discussed the plans for the Sala barrage and the debate about who will benefit from the new canal that is being put in by a firm from Bobo. Then it was time for my language lesson and I read three stories in my third level reader.

Friday morning we biked to Sabou to catch the taxi brousse to Koudougou. It was very late but finally another one came from Fara. There were 20 people and all our stuff in it when we left. I rode beside the driver, who had a difficult time with the road conditions. The last 5K he drove in the bush, because his papers were not in order for the checkpoint we heard. That stretch was an amazing trip from my vantage point. I could smell the brakes, and the car had to be rolled to start each time. Wow!

At the KDG market I shopped for several things, but in particular a veil I wanted to wear for the wedding and a wedding card. While we shopped, we parked our bikes with Joseph, Georges friend where he is staying tonight. Then I found lodging at the Notre Dame seminary for 3 mille a night, after convincing the new nun that they always gave volunteers a discount in the past. I wanted to rest up for the next days activities.

20 December 08

Most of the morning was spent running errands, working on the internet and preparing for the wedding. We agreed to meet Achille at the cybercafe in the afternoon, so we could go together to the wedding. We rode to secteur 6, home of the parents of the groom. There were lots of people there; men outside under the trees, children running and playing, women gathered in back rooms; women preparing food and women on the porch—it was very exciting. The bride and her attendants were together in a bedroom excitedly waiting.

Outside we greeted Semde Madi and asked after the Major. He told us he was on his way. We sat and waited, while being served zoomkoom. When the Major arrived all the men knelt on prayer rugs for the afternoon prayer. (See photo.) Once they finished everyone went to the mosque. We were allowed to sit on the peripheri of the area outside the mosque near the fence entrance. Several hundred men were on mats at the east end of the structure. They had a lengthy prayer service there, which was for the purpose of blessing the union of the two getting married and sanctioned by the Moslem churchmen. The bride and groom were not present at the ceremony. The groom, Issa, was waiting by the gate with his attendants. A pickup truck had the bridesmaids and bride in the canopy in back and they drove to the nearby intersection but no one got out. Soon the pickup left. When the service was over, it appeared the marriage was approved. This was an eyeopener for me from the western culture

Everyone there went back to the home of the groom's parents, where a meal was served. We saw Gansonre there, and he left with the Major to visit at the home of the Major and Asseta in secteur 5 in KDG. We followed and gave him the wedding card with money for the bride and groom. We were served popcorn and zoomkoom. After dark we pedaled back to our accommodations delighted to have been invited to observe a Muslim wedding.

Sunday morning we caught our ride to Sabou. It was complicated to get everything lined up, but we were on the taxi brousse at 9:45 and arrived by 11am. We visited at the marche' in Sabou for the afternoon before riding home. Midway the major stopped and gave us a ride there. He thanked us for verifying his son Oussmane at the checkpoint, without enough papers along on his moto.

22 December 08

When I went to CSPS only a few people were there. The nurse Philippe was seeing many women waiting for Pre Natal Visits averaging around 10-15 minutes apiece. In the afternoon I went to the marche' at Thyou and visited with my church friends. Laurentine was on her way to choir practice for Noel. I asked Georges to pick out two roosters for my own Christmas feast with 5 mille, as many people were coming to visit that day, which means lots of food. I stocked up on fruits and vegetables too. Of course we some holiday cheer to serve as well.

The next day we motoed to Dana and Zao to do sensibilisation for the students regarding the hygiene of washing their hands. I brought along school supplies and some Moringa trees to give the village chefs. Dana elementary had a new director and so the text message I sent to the former director of course wasn't received. They did not know we were coming, but graciously accommodated us. They put all three classes together so we presented to one large group. Afterwards I inquired about the boy with the handicapped leg, and the director said he would get the father to come there when we returned in the afternoon.

Next we arrived at Zao school, Kuba was anticipating us and presently he put 6 classes together for our presentation and we had an even larger group. Georges translated into Moore' so the younger ones could understand. We had 12 student volunteers for the handwashing exercise, which made it long. The sensibilisation was well received by the students, they especially liked the song at the end. Kuba's preschool son, Goumou, hangs out in his classroom most days and was there today. As we gathered our things to go, we asked Kuba where the village chef lives and he led us there. At the nearby Baobob tree, the mother of the twins who had delivered last summer was pounding millet. We admired the twins, one small but both looked healthy. I gave her the birth photos I had taken some time ago. She was very excited and showed the other women there. We visited with the chef and gave him two Moringa trees. He took all four and will deliver the other two to the ASCs from Zao.

We followed Kuba back home, where his wife Batrine, had lunch ready for us. We sat under a big Mango tree and enjoyed rice and sauce with lapine (rabbit). It was good. Kuba set about making tea, which is quite a process and fun to watch, as he cascades it from one vessel to another. During this time we had a lively discussion about language learning and America. French has its idiosyncrasies! Kuba poured the tea in a long stream between two teapots, as he leaned back in his wicker chair. This cools very hot tea. He went easy on the sugar and I really enjoyed the taste from the tea leaves. Another question he brought up was “Will Georges visit you in America?” He pointed out this would be natural in his role as your collaborator.

When we got to Dana on our way home, the director had the father of the crippled boy there and a community person to help with the conversation. I copied down the information I had gotten from the International Handicapped Foundation next to the Peace Corps bureau in Ouagadougou. I suggested the father take his son there after the holidays are over, as many offices are closed before then. They seemed open to this idea.

Back home I visited Sampoko in the early evening. Salam, the chef of that quartier showed me where Mariam's roof caved in and he needs corrugated metal to replace it. His sister was visiting and asked me for a tank top. She had heard about the new tops for everyone. That evening after dinner, I found a VOA radio station playing Christmas music. Reading my book and listening to holiday music was good for my soul.

24 December 08

I set about cleaning my house in preparation for lots of company on Noel, as I will be cooking most of tomorrow. Later that day Georges brought over the two cocks and some vegetables, part of the Christmas menu I had asked for. Connie called to chat about her February trip to visit me, and said Michael can't come due to his new job. She said the Pacific North West has been covered in snow for over two weeks now. It is a pretty unusual change of weather.

After 9pm I went with the Kiemtore' family to our church, arriving early for the midnight services. It was already full of people. Florescent lights were strung up and most people had a flashlight in hand too. The drumming was very nice as was the singing. My favorite chant was “Noel, Noel” at the very end of the service.

CHRISTMAS DAY IN VILLAGE

Zanabou and I pedaled 3K to church and this time it was not packed. Within a half hour it was filling up though. The choir had all matching attire, all the singers and even the drummers. It added to the spirit of the festivities. During the final song, one elder started dancing up towards the altar, and soon was joined by a whole line of other happy followers, singing, clapping and dancing. Holidays are social and exciting for Africans. (See photos.)

Back home the neighbor kids helped me cut up vegetables, tomatoes, green pepper, onions and garlic for tomato sauce. Abdoulaye cut up the roosters for me to fry. Next I prepared a big pasta casserole with salmon and cheese sauce. Peas and tomatoes gave Christmas colors to the dish. By then I had company, four young men from Sala: Karim, my Moringa counterpart, Issaka, president of the soccer team, Saidou, translator, and Ali. I gave them Planter peanuts as an hors d'oeuvre. Soon enough food was ready to feed the first group of visitors. Aminata and Abdoulaye ate then too, with Aminata taking her big dish of food outside to feed all the neighbor youngsters. Minata brought over the three Kilos of rice she cooked for me to serve the tomato sauce over.

Other groups of people came for dolo and food. Koumhou came from the chef's compound. Then the chef came himself to partake. It was very pleasant. Others came all afternoon, and Minata brought some people in she had gathered. I took a picture of each group as we all laughed with glee. Finally Georges' family came to the gathering, which was very fun. When Angie called I had her talk with Georges and she understood him. I talked to everyone at the Hayes home for most of an hour. It capped Noel for me. By 11pm everyone was gone and I went to bed thinking it was such a beautiful day sans gifts, purely religious and social. I liked it.

27 December 08

The previous day Karim, Saidou and I practiced our sensibilisation for malaria, set for 8am under the big tree downhill by the road from me. In about an hour enough people had gathered that we were encouraged to begin our talk with 30 women, 20 men and 25 children. We talked about the signs of malaria and the urgency one needs to respond to those signs, as it can become grave quickly. We talked about prevention, especially using moustiquaire. The chefs, Adama and Hamadou fielded some of the questions. One woman, , the wife of Karim's older brother, responded to our questions too. I gave her a moustiquaire for her participation. See photo. (Unfortunately within a week she died of stomach malady.) We finished the presentation talking about the benefits of our Moringa project, and gave two trees to the village chef. Saidou and Karim hung out a while at my house.

Then a group of people who hadn't come on Christmas arrived for visiting over food and drink. Deacon Maxime, George's brother and Georges also brought Koala Jean for the holiday meal. I made a green salad, heated up the rice and sauce, along with the chicken, and that wrapped up the Xmas meal. We also polished off the remainder of the 5 Kilos of milange. Minata and Sampoko joined us, as Koala Jean is brother to Sampoko. It was a good time!

Midafternoon I tried to nap, but soon had more visitors, the Major's sons Abdoulaye and Zacharias, also my friend Issa, came to chat. Then some villagers came to buy Moringa trees that we had discussed at the sensibilisation that morning. Then the chicken I had tied to my porch escaped a couple times, adding excitement to a busy day.

The next day my highlights came via the phone. Heather phoned me. It was Glory's birthday too. Then Sr. Mary called me from the CREN and invited me to surprise birthday party for Sister Aimie on January 1. She also asked to speak to Georges and asked him to come for a meeting for a security job at the CREN the next day.

30 December 08

This morning is the malaria sensibilisation at the Ipala quartier. On the way there, we stopped at Karim's house to greet his brother the Doctor from Ouagadougou, who had been to the US for 10 days in mid-December visiting NIH for grant money to fight malaria. He thanked me profusely for coming here and said he knows how much I gave up to come here. His sense is that it is very important to share information and exchange cultures.

When we got to the big tree at Ipala quartier for the causerie, no one was there. The chef of Ipala quartier pedaled up on his bicycle and it was obvious he had cut a gash in his foot on his pedal. He waited for water to clean it with and some traditional medicine to apply for healing it. “Na-manegb Zanga” looked like black tiny poppy seeds. He covered the wound with that and a bandage. I could tell it hurt.

By an hour later sufficient people had come, to begin with 26 women, 8 men and 8 children. The questions today centered around the number available and the cost of moustiquaires for all the villagers. I gave one out for a woman who seemed to answer a lot of questions. I also passed out two balls of soap, which pleased those women too. We gave the Ipala chef 2 Moringa trees and sold two more to villagers there.

I had Georges review my COGES report for proper French and we went to see if there would be a group meeting today, but the Major was the only person there. After an hour we left and Georges suggested we go visit Koala Jean at his place. We had a good visit. He had been a counselor to the last chef of Thyou, and enjoyed that work. He wants to run for office in the near future. He is well regarded in village.

31 December 08 NEW YEAR'S EVE

This is another big celebration for Burkinabe'. When we went to the market to Yvette's hangar she invited me to come tonight to her place for dancing and singing on this New Year's Eve. I told her that we had a family event at Georges parents home planned. Laurentine was shopping for condiments for the evenings meals, and I wanted pasteque (watermelon) which was in the produce section of market. My left leg was hurting so I asked others to do my shopping. I went home to pack a bag for staying the night at the elder Kiemtores tonight so that I don't risk riding home in the dark. I sat in the evening moonlight and watched Laurentine prepare Riz Gras in a big marmite (kettle) over an open fire. Meanwhile about 8 of us played a long game of Uno, and then at 10:30pm dinner was served on big trays with rice and chicken and sauce. Henry led a long grace thanking God for last year and the ones to come. After the meal the children wanted to dance. Georges put on his tapes in his big stereo radio combo. He and his girls and Claude were dancing and soon it was midnight and 2009.

Laurentine prepared another chicken and marinated the cucumbers and..... Voila! We ate again, the traditional after midnight meal. It was New Year's under the stars in Africa and a very fun time with friends!

01 November 08

We all rallied in the morning, ate, packed and got to the Shell station by 7am where the taxi brousse originates every weekday morning. Bouba had replaced his taxi vehicle with a very comfortable newer one. We got to the capitol by 10:30am. The stagierres caught a bus to OHG, and I took a cab to PCB to use the internet. I wanted to go to the bank, but it was closed due to All Saints Day.

At 3pm we gathered in the conference room at the bureau for our Moringa meeting. We had 12-15 PCVs in attendance. Ryan gave a quick overview. I gave some of the parameters for joining the Moringa committee: attendance, demonstrated interest and project plans. There is lots of energy and interest in this group. Kevin talked about making good soil. I believe this is the time I prepared Kopto along with chips for our moringa snack. It went over well. We met for a couple hours discussing our Moringa projects and experiences in village.

It was almost dark when I called Katera for the second time to get directions to her house in “Ouaga de Mille”. The landmark I was looking for was the ritzy Hotel Joli. Katera came right after me when I next phoned her. She drove us to her very spacious luxurious home with a separate guest house next to the swimming pool. I watched the first TV since coming to Burkina, the CNN news on the upcoming election. The warm shower was certainly welcome, as was the firm mattress. I went to bed early.

On Sunday Katera was going up to the shopping area in Ouaga de Mille to the bakery, and I got a ride that far (on a main road) to catch a cab. Back in Zone de Bois, I found the ISO club where the four original members of the Moringa group met for a working breakfast. That lasted until noon.

I walked some 6 blocks back to the Transit House, changed clothes and went to PCB to use the internet, but it was down and wouldn't return. Back at the TH, I tried to get Skype to work there, but was unsuccessful. As evening was approaching, I went to Charles de Gaulle Blvd to catch another taxi to Katera's place. She was very gracious to offer her guest house to an older volunteer during this busy weekend of SIAO. The cost going way out to her place was 2500francs. I phoned her again, and her son walked over to show me the way back. Katera had a work friend with her two children over for a family meal, which was fun to be a part of. I excused myself to fill out my voting ballot, and Katera will put it in the shuttle to DC which leaves in the morning.

03 November 08

After a second night of wonderful sleep, I gathered my things including the ballot and sat outside until Katera and Oudou came out to the car. She said they were going in to town to the American Embassy and I could ride along. Her other two children had caught the school bus earlier. Back in Zone de Bois, I got money from the poste and went for an omelette sandwich with Kait before going to the bureau. I checked my mail and packages. I received one box that had exploded when the bottle of olive oil broke and shards of glass cut into the vacuumed packed tuna. After a little damage control, Christina and I tied my boxes onto our bikes to ride to the transit house.

I got ready to visit SIAO the international art show, where there were displays in several large building. I grabbed a pork sandwich in one of the many food booths, and sat awhile before walking around. I was trying to discern where the main exhibit was, and finally found a German who spoke English as well. He pointed out the exhibit hall where individual countries showed off their treasures. And then he showed me the main hall, where individuals were showing their particular art. This exhibit was crammed full with little extra space anywhere. In contrast the country exhibits were spacious as well as attractive. There I found and bought some leather sandals, handcrafted that fit me. I found several other things I liked too.

Luckily I talked with Chris for an hour that evening. He's sent me an auxiliary battery for my laptop among other things. He updated me on happenings in the family, and at this distance it is reassuring to hear that all is well.

04 November 09

Idrissa one of the PC drivers came after me early for my Physical Therapy appt. We stopped by a jeweler he knew of downtown to have a new battery put in my watch. His wife Awa works nearby BIB and I was able to meet her. They were both bragging about their little son. At PT today the technician put me on sonar and increased the intensity until I felt it. After a half hour they put the hot packs on. Later I worked on typing my quarterly report in French for Dr. Claude, showing the work I did in village and with the school children.

I also ordered 24 pictures from Costco. Becky and I went for brochettes and beer at the Rezoo and talked about life in village. When I talked with Chris later on Skype he asked me to open box 6 of the ones he just sent me to get the new auxiliary battery pack he sent, as I need to charge it before going back to village.

At the Transit House they were getting a birthday cake ready for Vince from KDG, before all the new voters went over to the Embassy to watch the election returns. They planned to spend the night if necessary.

05 November 09

In the morning I finished working on my blog and essay to put in it. I also talked to my kids about the election results. They encouraged me to get on NPR and read Obama's acceptance speech, then I got the link to hear the speech as Obama gave it. It was truly exhilarating! The PCVs began returning from watching the elections all night, and they were happy and wound up.

I packed for the return home today. I ran errands i.e. to the Handicapped Organization for questions on mute boy and others. Rob helped me retape a couple of my boxes, while I called a cab. I figured he was on Bobanguida looking for the address, and sure enough I was able to hail him when I went out there. With 2 bags, 6 boxes and my bike, the price was 2500francs. After the cab dropped me and my stuff off, I went to the little restaurant and had lunch. We left at 2:30 from OUA and got to Thyeo at 6pm. I had help getting all my stuff up to my house. I gave some things I bought to my neighbors. I received calls from Connie and then Angie. It was so good to talk to them.

Early the next morning I got all the flip charts and school supplies and Moringa trees for the chef ready to go to Bouyou. When we arrived at that village, the school director was gone, so we gave the school supplies to his wife. We were also told there was a big crowd gathered for us yesterday as it was market day there. We stopped at maternite' and copied vaccination schedule, and decided to come back on November 18 for causerie.

We had lunch when we returned home. Then Ousmane came over so we could measure him for soccer shoes. So I text that info to Chris. Football (as they call soccer in Burkina Faso) is by far

the main sport here to the exclusion of everything else.

07 November 09

The major motoed over to my compound this morning to give Minata a ride to CSPS. She can hardly walk for the pain of strain in her back. Harvest is heavy work for a woman. I visited the clinic in the morning myself, and hung out for a while. There were lots of people here this morning.

At market that afternoon I found bread, balls of homemade soap, fry bread, and later at the boutique I bought a bag of candy for treats for the children. I gave Barnard the soccer ball I had for his brother, Claude. Their father, Jean Baptiste had saved me porc for sandwich in the mid afternoon. We went by the barrage in Thyeo to have my lesson because that's halfway between our two houses. At dusk when I got home, Abdoulaye said that the DVDs I gave the family did not work in his player, they need to say SVCD. I had so hoped the children could watch family movies, a break from their reggae ones.

Saturday we travel to Salo for a teacher meeting that Ky Simplice the director had invited us to. I didn't realize the planning that goes on routinely for the teaching staff, but today I got a sample of it. When George and I got there, Ky ushered us to where the group was just as a student was demonstrating the sound of the letter “y” with each vowel. After the handful of students finished the task with the teachers, we went into another classroom where the new director of Sala elementary led an exercise regarding how children best retain learning. They do better when teacher demonstrates a line and the children repeat it, mimicking the tone and quality of the words.

Lunch followed the morning's work. Then we walked to the marche' going on in Salo, and found the women in the photos I had made for them. Back at the school a causerie was taking place with the teachers from all over the district chatting with one another. The men were playing a table game. Soon a team of villagers started showing up to play soccer against the teachers. Two of the major's sons were among those, Abdoulaye and Ousmane. Before the game got very far along, we left for home as I

wanted to get home before dark.

On Sunday my self set task was to finish the quarterly reports for the district doctor, so I went to the clinic for information. Once that was done, I visited my friend, Fati who has a small restaurant near the road and the Sala boutique. I gave her my red tank top she had asked for. In the mid afternoon, I sorted all the t-shirts by size and sex for the kids in my compound, some 20-30 of them, organized the jewelry I would give their mothers and set out the bag of candy. When my neighbors returned from the fields that day around 1700 H, Abdoulaye and I invited the people of the compound to bring their children and come in, one family at a time until everyone had a chance and was outfitted with a new t-shirt. Soon there was a line on my porch waiting their turn to come in. Within two hours we were finished and most were very excited about their new things to wear.

Later when I was fixing dinner I heard my door open, I turned around to find this little cherub in his new orange t-shirt with trucks on the front, comfortable enough to walk into a now familiar home. I took this as a thank you, though he wasn't talking yet. Before retiring, I had Karim at the house and we were planning the next VIH talk in village by texting Garrett for his availability and settled on Nov 21.

10 November 09

This is my birthday week and I am going to Bobo on vacation. I had offered to Minata that I was willing to take some harvest down to Madi, who goes to school in Bobo. She tied a bag of millet on my velo for him with a letter and some money. Mom's are the same everywhere! They care about their kids no matter what age they are. I went to Sabou with my luggage and bike and waited a couple hours for a bus. That option was more comfortable than taxi brousse when you consider 280K and the number of hours on transport. For my bike and velo it was 4,500F. I bought local bread before leaving Sabou and after I ate my omelette sandwich. The driver followed a procession of sorts at one of the small towns, but also went through big towns, ie Boromo, which had a number of vendors. I bought some aloco (fried plantain) to munch on. It took 4 hours to get to Bobo, the second largest ville in BF. I text Solomon and asked for directions to PC office in Bobo and also directions to nearby Casa Africa. He let me know it is very close to “Les 3 Karite” and to ask any taxi driver. It is is a quaint little place with lodging inside and out and a discount for PCVs, so that was nice. My room was an outside cottage for 3mille. I wanted to visit the Bobo PCB, and ran into Jonathan and met Michael, a new PC teacher. He led me to the cyber cafe' at the poste. Because the computers were in French, I couldn't get into Facebook. But I could get into my email and answer some of it. I rode back home at dusk and then went to Les 3 Karite' for riz and sauce, arachide (peanut). It was fun to eat under the stars and moonlight.

11 November 09

Outside this morning were several campers and there was a French gentleman, Jilles who saw my PC bike and said I have a saddlebag that would fit your bike. He showed it to me and said it worked really well, but he has back pain and can't ride his bike anymore. He and his traveling partner have visited Benin, Togo and now Burkina Faso. I gave him the 15 mille and took the saddle bag for my causeries in petite villages. He threw in a patch kit and some other things too. Another camper in the yard had travelers who had been at Banfora the previous day and loved it. They swam in the pool, etc. She gave me a business card of the guide they used.

After breakfast I grabbed a cab and went to Lycee L'avenire (school) to meet with Madi and give him the harvest bag of millet and letter with money from his mother. We had a nice visit and I met his good friend Bukari too. An older gentleman, Demba who told me where the boarding school was walked several blocks with me back to the main road, where we caught another cab. We stopped off at his house and I met his wife, Aguerra and son, Simbo, who showed me around the International Art School, Centre Dje'lya. (See photos.) They invited me back for the 2nd International Festival which will happen Dec 24. I also watched Aguerra cook in a contained pot with fire below.

Back at the motel I napped a while then found the open market in Bobo, and bought flip flops, a pagne, coffee cup, a batik, and other toiletries, before going home. I found a chicken vendor roasting them on a spit basted with a special sauce and got one for dinner, along with a bagquet and a watermelon that was so delicious. I retired early to be ready for the bike ride out to Banfora.

The next morning I received lots of texts wishing me “Bonne Anniversaire” (Happy Birthday). After breakfast I got a cab to the Rakieta Bus depot and had a few minutes, so I walked over to the Cathedral next to it. But the caretaker wouldn't unlock the door to tourists and that was disappointing. Once on the bus it took an hour and a half to get to Banfora, the last hour of which they turned on the TVs and we all watched an African soap opera. I checked into the “Canne a Sucre” ( Sugar Cane) hotel. PC discount was 5 mille per night, so that was good. The hotel recommended the hippos at the lake, so that was a bike trip of 9K or so. The guide took several tourists out to paddle across the lake, but alas we saw no hippos. We did however get to see beautiful lilies on the water, and hear wonderful sounds from the birds that live nearby. The guide braided me a necklace of lilies, a crown for my birthday (See photos). On the way back, I found bengii, which is sweet and fermented and white in color, much better than the local dolo! It was a layed back birthday.

13 November 09

I packed for the day at the “Cascades de Karfigela”, lunch, swimsuit etc. Then hired a guide Mimoani to assist with my climbing. One can hear the cascades way before getting there. The entrance is surrounded on either side with big, old mango trees. Then the short hike up the slate steps and path to the top of the cascade range to the falls. It is spectacular! The guide showed me the swim pool formed by the waterfalls. I stood under the falls which felt like a shower and I played in the water a long time.

Then on to the domes some 3K away. “The Dunes du Sable” are rock formations that had been underwater for years until a dam for electricity was made. There are a lot of them and they are very interesting in shapes and sizes. Big black pipes carry the water away from the dam down to the sugar cane fields. We photographed the domes and the guide Mimoani went to the top of nearby domes to capture that view. I ate my lunch waiting for him. I could see some professional photographers filming up there. (See photos.) Returning to Banfora, I found Bengii and bought some grilled pork to make a sandwich before turning in for the evening.

I wanted to make one more attempt early the next morning to see the hippos, thinking maybe they are more visible in the cool of the morning. The guide, Dramane hit the side of the boat with his oar trying to wake the hippos, but we ere not successful in our efforts. The lake is quiet, beautiful and large any time of day. There are more lilies opened in the morning too. Again no hippo sighting! There is a campground near the lake and it was filled with 4X4s, which passed us as we rode back to the entrance of the park.

By midmorning I had packed up to leave and get to Rakieta in time to get a good seat on the bus. At Bobo I caught another bus to take me back to Sabou and pedal home. It was a great vacation!

01 October 08 School Begins

Sonata is leaving for Ouaga this morning, to continue her education. She won't return until summer. We have a quick coffee in the morning before she leaves for the taxi brousse. Others come by for coffee, and the elementary school children start to gather outside my place. When the whole bunch are ready we take photos of the group in their new clothes and school bags. This is especially exciting because its Zanabou's first day of school in her life.

I went to the clinic and chat with the major about Moslem feast of Ramadan yesterday. He thought I was coming over for repas then, as visitors enjoyed crushed igname (yams). There were many people on IV drips already at the CSPS. I found the medical staff deep into their paperwork over at the maternite'. The midwife, Lea is scrubbing the pantalons for baby weighing. We visit awhile talking about her plans to return to KDG for further studies.

I go towards Thyou to the restaurant on the way and test out their benga, which is very good. When I return home, a young man from Zao is waiting to talk to me about his two year old nephew who has already had a drip feed for malaria at the clinic, and needs to go to KDG for a blood transfusion according to what Gansonre told him. The father is in Ouaga presently, and the mother has been out of the picture some months now. Grandmother cares for the child, and that's why this young man is desperately looking for help. We go back to CSPS to get clarification from the staff. On the way I talk to my counterpart, who says once the nurse writes the referral for the child, he is done. Life in Burkina is tough. My response is that the Burkinabe' seek the same thing Americans want: life, liberty and happiness. That's what his uncle is trying to do...... We sit by the road waiting for taxi brousse, but none comes this time of day. Then one of the nurses comes by to say the child's father called from Ouaga to say he's coming this evening. They returned home as the boy's father will get him to KDG in the morning.

I read my book “My Sister's Keeper” about a donor sister and one with leukemia. Interesting!

02 Oct 08

Adama and Rasmane come for coffee/tea this morning. Adama asks for batteries, but I want to see for what. I water the newest Moringa trees coming up. Then go to the maternite', and greet the people there. Lea is hooking up an IV to a patient in the private room there. During the morning I weigh 20 babies, and say the weight to the mothers in Moore'. They understand and sometimes giggle at my accent. Lea sees a couple women for prenatal visits. It's noon when I gather my things to go to market, including my books for a language lesson afterwards.

When I get to the marche' I find an alternative to barbecued pork, goat. I am having milange when Georges arrives. We go find a spot to eat our sandwiches. He is buying supplies to feed those who came and helped with his arachide harvest. We saw a couple village ASCs, Jean Baptiste and Babou of Bolo, who want to know when we are coming back. I tell him “on vaccination day, Oct 19” and they are pleased. We found one of the men whose picture I took and give them to him. Then off to study my lesson.

On Friday when I visited the maternite' there was a young mother on drip IV who tried to converse in Moore' with me. It is frustrating to not understand each other. Her mother was caring for her baby. The clinic was quiet today. In the afternoon I worked on my COGES report and updated my VIH/AIDS report. At my language lesson we translated it into French. We got the population figures for the small villages and left the report for major to use at their meeting in the next 4 days. As we returned to my house the clouds were gathering for a rainstorm.

04 Oct 08

There was a fair number of people waiting at the taxi brousse place in the morning to go to Ouaga, and a heavy set lady sat down next to me. I was fairly squished the whole way there. In the city I stopped by the cathedral bookstore and bought 2 cassettes for 4 mille. One turned out to be Doula, not Moore', so that was a bit spendy I found. I had errands in town, getting food and leaving my new dress pants at the tailor for alteration. I went to the PC bureau to work on email, when Sally called and gave me a rundown on the class reunion at Janet Veatch's place. Sal also gave me their new email address. It was sooo good to talk with her.

In the afternoon PCV Thomas helped me install the Skype program on my computer. When Chris call that evening I was able to see him (his camera was on) and speak with him on Skype. New technology is wonderful!

The next morning I was getting ready to go to Mass, when it dawned me that I needed to stay and interview the health volunteers about Moringa experiences, as they were leaving for OHG soon. Linda returned from USA and text me that she was at TH, and could we order dinner together. I said sure and she ordered me a Cordon Bleu. Yummy!

06 Oct 08

On this Monday morning I typed all the antidotes from the workers who had experience with Moringa. I went to the bureau, where I got input from Dr. Claude on the Food Security issue. By 3pm Rob and I were on Bobanguida Blvd, where we found fencing for my Moringa project. I also picked up my pants from the tailor, who did an excellent job on the alteration. We also stopped by the church boutique, where Rob bought a bible in Moore', and I purchased a pagne.

Mariam, the medical secretary called to say the dentist had received my crown and wanted to put it in. I had to catch a taxi to get there, so I walked to the main road and the third taxi took me there. The crown went in very nicely. When it was time to go to the taxi gare around 1pm, I called all the numbers and couldn't get a taxi. The two men working at the TH, Combari' and Eduard, and the guard helped me call Barry at PCB with my problem. He sent a driver, Abraham right over to get me and all my stuff to the taxi brousse. We left Ouaga for home at 3pm, but the starter didn't work, which made a grinding sound every time Bouba shifted gears. When we reached our destination, Garrett met me and took 2 boxes for me, Gerard also transported the fencing and the insecticide sprayer to my house. Garrett invited me to stay for dinner of cabbage, tomato, onion and aubergine. Very delicious indeed! He had bought little haricot dough balls too. As we rode home in the dark I took a tumble on the path up the hill where I live. Luckily I fell on my right hip, not my left. Since I was going slowly, it didn't do much to me.

08 Oct 08

Gerard came by to make sure the fencing and box he transported home for me last night was here. Then he looked over the Moringa tree project and even watered them for me. When I saw the major later I asked him to think about where he wants the Moringa trees planted at the CSPS. He asked about the goats eating them and was happy to hear about the fencing.

I mentioned to the major that we, Garrett, Karim and I were scheduled to do a VIH sensibilisation tomorrow. He said the village chef was very sick, which meant the word didn't get out to the villagers so the causerie would need to be resheduled. I followed the major over to the chef's, who looked very ill indeed.

In the marche' I saw many friends, esp Patrice from Zao, who wants a picture of him participating in the VIH causerie we did at his village. I also visited with Bazile and Silvie, Gilbert, Florence, JB and Marie from church. We talked about Uno, photos, etc. After lunch at the marche' we had my lesson. I read several stories in my French 2e Reader, and George brought me a little book of bible stories in French. When I got back home, the neighbor kid said I had several visitors, Saidou, and Issa .

At 8pm I received a call from Lorraine. They were driving up the Columbia Gorge on their way to Spokane as we chatted. She filled me in on our class reunion, and I gave her my wish list, including flip-flops, bouncy balls and t-shirts. They will be visiting Vince's boys who go to college in eastern Washington. Dave and she are planning a cruise this fall to Mexico departing from San Francisco. I walked outside in the dark as we conversed and saw that the neighbors had VCR hooked up to a battery and the neighborhood was watching a video centered on an African family. There were a few chairs but most people were sitting on the dirt.

On Thursday the first couple hours were spent waiting to see if the sensibilisation was on or not. When it turned out the answer was no, I went over to the clinic where lots and mothers and babies were waiting for baby weighing. Lea, the acting midwife, had done 6 already and together we did 20 more. I gave the weight in Moore' to all the mothers and was pleased that I could. There were 6 or so newborns and a set of twins in the group.

Lea did a couple prenatal visits and allowed me to observe. She documented their history on a large card for that purpose, weighed them and measured their belly. She did a cursory pelvic exam, then doled out iron and palu medication. She left time to talk with them about due dates, and answer any questions she had. One mom had her 2 year old with her, and he was sharing his just harvested peanuts with me. When we were done with work we walked down to the little restaurant and Lea bought me lunch, Riz Gras with a piece of chicken. Lea is out of propane gas at home, so I invited her to lunch with me tomorrow.

I relaxed in the afternoon by reading Joseph Conrad's “Heart of Darkness” which we had read in high school English class. I understood it much better now. It helps to have a lifetime of experience to frame it in.

When it was time for my language lesson, my teacher arrived just ahead of a big storm and rain. We concentrated on Moore' both in the text and in the French-Moore' reader. We made plans to visit the nurse, Gansonre before he leaves village.

Friday morning I made a quick trip to Thyou bakery for bread and stopped several places to get omelette sandwich but eggs are out of season. I biked to CSPS and there were 4 infants on drip IVs, so I went home and got the balloons to pass out to them. I checked in with Lea about our lunch date. She told me a pregnant woman was there this morning who will give birth tonight or tomorrow. She agreed to text me when the woman is ready so I can be present at a delivery. Lea came over to my house at noon for lunch. We chatted about how poor the people are here. She also mentioned the chef needs to go to KDG for hernia surgery but she doesn't know if he can afford that. My afternoon plans to visit the major and Gansonre at the clinic were changed when the winds came up suddenly and it stormed with lots of rain over several hours.

When my language lesson started, Minata came over to talk with Georges a long time about 4 bodies found over night alongside the road from Thyou to Sala. Local news travels fast in village, especially when there's mystery to it.

10 Oct 08

On Saturday morning Minata and Issaka came over for coffee. I offered to buy petro at the marche' today for her. We saw some children going to school, which has classes that day. I went to the clinic and spoke to both the major and Gansonre to explain that due to the rain I didn't come to the clinic yesterday. They figured that out yesterday, and they knew the storm was the reason. I asked the major about the remote village Sune' and a moto ride there on vaccination day. He was agreeable to that. He also showed me where he thinks the Moringa grove of trees should be planted near the clinic. We joked about his view that we could do a whole field of Moringa, and my vision of doing the number (30 or so) that we could fence in. As I visited people at the clinic this morning, I realized the little girl Ingrid from yesterday had returned today for another drip feed. Her mother Orteille was there of course, and it turns out that I already knew her father Paul from our church. I hadn't known they live in Sala until then.

I found out too that the new nurse Philippe repaired the chef's hernia this morning, so he's not going to KDG after all. I went to the marche' in the afternoon for fruits and vegetables. Laurentine and I looked at the marmites, a kettle to cook over an open fire. I want one for a dutch oven, so I can prepare baked goodies. She offered to pick me up one in KDG next time she goes there.

On the way home for my language lesson, Georges got the petro I promised Minata. We wanted very much to beat the storm home. We got there in time to “batten down the hatches” before the rains came. Except I broke the petro bottle, so we spent a fair amount of time cleaning that up and getting the fumes out of the house. The three of us visited a while as the sound of the rain pounded on my tin corrugated roof.

12 Oct 09

I wore my l'ordination dress to church where Fr. Casmire was saying Mass. The choral group had a long practice afterwards as they are getting ready for the competition next weekend for the feast of Saint Luke (Sabou's parish name). When I biked back home, I saw Madame Kiemte', and we planned a visit soon. I tried to nap in the afternoon, but was restless, so I worked on my voting ballot. I can vote on a federal ballot, just for president, or an absentee ballot that I mail in, or the real ballot if it arrives in time, or email a ballot as a last resort. Lots of options.

Since I was invited to dinner, I left for Georges' place about 6pm. Laurentine was preparing marinated chicken in a marmite, along with riz gras. There was local French bread to dip in the sauce too. We ate after the girls returned from the well with water. (See photos.) We spent the evening listening to tapes and music from the church recorded on various feast days. George sang solo in some songs and led the choral group in others. They also showed me their family photo album, which was fun to look through. Georges had rigged his fluorescent light from a wire leading to a box with D batteries. This was helpful when he played the tapes too. The sky looked ominous as I went home that night.

On Monday after work the functionairres of the community of Sala met at the buvette and had a Farewell party for Gansonre, who has been given a position to head up a CSPS in Dolo, about 25K away and starting in a week or so. The COGES members and all the school teachers were there, along with the medical staff from CSPS. The new school director at Sala was there, who speaks English and wants to assist me with sensibilisation. (See photos.)

14 Oct 09

After the coffee group left my house this morning, I went to the clinic to get photos of Gansonre and the major before he left. I also had a chance to ask Philippe for a ride on his moto to Sune' (24K) the day he goes there for vaccination. He was agreeable but informed me that he leaves at 7am. I visited with the two infants on drip IV, and met the other people who are there sick at the clinic today. As I continued on my rounds, Issa rode up and said he has been trying to find me at home. We then went there and I gave him the Nike leather soccer ball for the Sala team. He was very grateful and happy.

The next day Minata came over for ointment or something to put on sore muscles. She went home and got an empty container of salve to show me what she wanted. I was able to give her some I had left over. When I got to clinic there were a few people there, a woman in the back room with an open sore on her leg. A two year old was on the porch with his parents waiting for medical attention. He cried when he saw me. I gave him a little boat he can play with in the water and demonstrated that in a dish of water. He watched that, but was frightened of that too. So I gave it to his father.

When I was done there, I rode my bike up the path behind the clinic and found Salamata's place, and called out to her. She was in the fields her husband said when he poked his head out the door. He has a skin rash over his body, which is chronic and he gets treatment for. It keeps him off work I understand and is painful. I was proud that I finally found their place and he will tell her I came to visit. I told him their new baby was beautiful, and he gave me a proud smile.

African School

On an average, children are 6-7 years old when they enter school at CP1 level. They speak local language and most work is oral. They have notebooks to begin writing numbers and letters in. They use little slates at their desks they practice on using chalk. At the end of their first year they pass into CP2, which starts in the fall after harvest. By the next levels CE1 and CE2 students begin to learn French, the national language of Burkina Faso. Proper diction and pronunciation are stressed. CM1 and CM2 are the remaining levels of primary school. By then the enrollment numbers are down due to many factors, i.e. children needed to work in the home or fields, or most obviously the cost.

The 6 middle school years start with Sixeme Annee (6e) and end with Premiere (1e) classe. Families pay 1250 francs per year ($2-3). Books, notebooks, pencils and pens are extra costs. Sometimes in (college) middle school, uniforms are required and funds are raised by parent groups to purchase these.

Considering the crowded conditions the children appear to be well behaved in the classroom. They share things and space with relatively no complaints and a minimum of confusion. Teachers lead their students through each class by demonstrating and saying what's expected. Visitors are rare and well received by them. Resources are limited, sometimes they use textbooks, but have to share those at their desks which seat three children or more. The number of students runs from 30 to as high as 60 in a room.

Every quarter the teachers in the district convene a formation or curriculum meeting with all the teachers from maybe six or eight schools in which uniform teaching methods are stressed. And much needed discussion takes place between all the teachers there.

African children want to learn. The motivation to get an education and better the standard of everyday life is encouraged by most adults and student peers. The sacrifices made by Burkinabe' to educate the young are everywhere. For example, mothers keep money from selling harvest products at market to pay for school; children doing homework by flashlights or under streetlights after dark; parents parting with savings to send their secondary students away to school; students living with strangers in other towns just to go to school; they endure long periods of time between family visits. And finally there is intense study by students preparing to take and pass their BAC (baccaloriat) test in order to enter the universities.

01 September 08

Travel days are always challenging! I worked on my blog and essay this morning sans coffee. I looked for omelette sandwich on way to PC Bureau, but settled for a meat brouchette and cucumber sandwich. I waited half an hour for one of the three volunteer internet computers, then transferred my writings to blogspot.com and edited them too.

When I returned to the Transit House it was time to go, and Rob helped me tie my bags onto my bike. I had phoned Omar for a taxi ride, but his car is in the shop, so I went to the main street and haled one. When I arrived at the taxi gare for Thyou, the major was there waiting for the ride home too. I learned that the taxi brousse was in shop for repairs so we all waited another 3-4 hours for it to come back. I read my book, walked down the street to find coffee, and waited around. The dump next to the gare had several fires burning in it and the drifting smoke was another good reason to go elsewhere.

Because this was the period of Ramadan, and the driver is Muslim, we stopped for afternoon prayer enroute, with everyone deboarding and most joining in the prayer time. We also had a delay at Nabadogo for a flat tire repair along side the road. It still took us 3 hours to reach Thyou, which is 100K away from Ouaga. Because it was dark out most people were met by someone to help them get home. Georges was there to tie my bags onto my bike assisting me to get home. Madi was at home when I got there, waiting to go to bed, as he has been staying on my lipicot since his father came for a visit and is using his room. I ate a sandwich for supper and retired by 11pm after a long day!

02 September 08

Many people were gathered outside when I got up, and some came in for coffee. Mostly my neighbors and Minata, who was fasting during Ramadan, which means no food or drink during daylight. We looked at the Moringa trees, including some new ones that are sprouting up. Looks good!

Enroute to CSPS a moto approached me and to my surprise it was Kimtore' brothers coming to tell me they may go to Nabadogo today to visit their sister Martine and family. CSPS was not very busy, one woman on a IV drip. When the major arrived on moto we chatted a bit and then I noticed Salamata going to the well next to clinic with her daughters. I greeted her as she returned home on the path east behind the CSPS. The major mentioned that Salamata's husband suffers from dermititis, severe enough he can't work. She runs the restaurant which is their livelihood. I had been wanting to visit her at home, so I biked the same direction, but had no luck finding them. However I did have luck getting fairly lost. I went far enough that the path dropped down to the main road, but I had to traverse puddles and swampy areas to get there. I stopped by Mimouna's benga place for lunch.

In the afternoon I went to the marche' for vegetables and fruits I needed. I met Gerard who showed me where the tailor with the industrial machine was, so I got my leather fanny pack stitched. At dinnertime Sonata brought over rice and aubergine sauce to which I added roasted pork I had brought from marche' and ate my dinner.

The next day I spoke to the major about my plan to ask the chef for permission to have causerie in my quartier about paludisme (malaria) the main health problem identified. I also want to ask to do two VIH sensibilisations in Sala. I will ask Karim to assist me in my efforts.

While at CSPS I visited a young mother whose baby was on IV drip for palu and she had brought the baby bouillie (broth) for nourishment. She offered some to me and it was good. I asked her to show me how to make it. She lives under the rezo tower in Thyou and her father is Boukare', a prominent person there. I went home for a balloon and other toy for her infant, and she and grandmother thanked me profusely.

When Georges came back in the evening after their trip to KDG, he said that Maxime and he were successful in talking with the director of the school where Edithe will go, and they got George's former tutor to agreed to house her for the school year. The total cost of school for the year is 100,000F so the scholarship will certainly help.

Since it was so late in the evening we deferred my lesson until morning before I go to CSPS to weigh babies. I want to learn to say the weights in Moore' to the mother of each baby. There were two new babies in the recovery room and a new one in the maternite' with its mother too. I found out that the assistant nurse said there were too few women came today for baby weighing so it is postponed until next week.

In the afternoon Karim came and we walked down the hill to the chef's compound. There are always lots of people there and today was no exception. He readily gave permission for the Palu causerie for next Friday and two VIH-AIDS talks. Next I asked him about his preference for my translator and he said either Karim or Saidou. I told him that I definitely need a translator from my French into Moore' for the villagers, sans communications problems. So I hope this all works out! As we were leaving the chef asked me again for the goose neck flashlight he wants. It was in jest and I answered when my son gets here!

On Friday I went to CSPS where 3 babies and 5 adults were all on IV drip medication. The nurse was trying to get an IV into another baby with little luck. Their veins are so tiny. The major assisted, but still no luck. There was another new baby at the maternite' this morning with mother and grandmother. I went home for balloons for the babies on drips. The families are so grateful. I watched one mother's baby while she went out to the well for water.

In the afternoon I went to the marche', found Minata there and we went together for legumes and fruit. She took it home for me. She showed me three skirts she got at marche' for Zanabou for starting school. They were very cute. When I met Georges at the church hangar we chatted with friends and the catechists' family. One friend Koala Jean joined us as we went for pork sandwich and then took us to where his wife, Juliette is serving.their family's dolo. Their son's BAC graduation party is the event I attended earlier this season. Laurentine was getting supplies for the workday at their field tomorrow. She searched for pima (hot pepper) to serve with the meal, plus dolo. On the way back we all went to George's parents and Veronique served haricot-riz, which was excellent.

On Saturday I went to the Thyou barrage to join George and his family in the group effort to cultivate their fields today. I photoed some children who came by all excited to be in a picture. Soon George came with his charrette carrying water, pulled by their donkey. There were 10-15 people there to help, and it took all morning for the group of us to get one big field weeded. Presently Laurentine brought bengado for everyone else and beans and rice for me. What a treat! When we ate, I noticed the Burkinabe' sit on their dabas, so I tried to photo that balancing act.

Later on George walked me around their property. One part has a rise with trees and old rocks in places. He rotates the crops and hopes to clear another field to plant next year. We returned to cultivate a while longer before disbanding. The work is hard but fulfilling, esp in a group. I returned home before dark. I expressed to my neighbors that I wanted to go to the mosque to attend prayer service at 7:15 this evening. When I had queried the major he said it was open to all. Sonata offered to go with me. She brought the prayer rug we used. I did not kneel, and observed several others who could not either. The prayers are led by one chanter and everyone responds. It seems quite reverent. The service lasted 30 minutes. We walked home together in the dark.

07 September 08

This Sunday morning Zanabou and I went to church at the Catholic hangar. She had on a new outfit, and her hair was done up beautifully. There were lots of people on foot and bikes enroute to church today. A collection for an ill person was taken up following the regular collection. After service we greeted everyone and rode back to Thyou to the boulangerie (bakery) first, then to find a soda for Zanabou.

We returned home and Garrett came for a visit. He told me about his trip to OHG, Dibou and Tougan. We also talked about our VIH presentations planned. He has more time now than after school starts up again. He has three classes to teach this coming year.

I offered to cook spaghetti dinner for the neighbor kids tonight and they are all happy about that. About 7pm the kids all came over and I served them. The big kids sat at the table and all the little ones lined up on the lipicot. They especially liked the French bread. I sent over food for their parents, Minata and Ousmane too.

Connie called me in the evening, and I was so happy to hear how successful her surgery went. We chatted about their visit here in the early Springtime. It was fun to hear from her. I packed for Ouaga and went to bed.

08 September 08

At the Shell station we loaded up on the taxi brousse and one mother with four little children got on. One child clearly had car sickness, and kept vomiting into his mother's pagne. It lasted the whole trip! When I got to Ouaga I promptly got a cab to PCB and went to med office to get weighed and Silvie and I talked about my diet and how to increase calories. I also worked on internet 4 hours. I ran other errands. Back at Transit House the PCV were ordering in food and I got a chef's salad which was very good. We watched a pretty good movie on video, TNT detective series with Kara ?. I boxed up a pkg for Lance and Tammi and boys, which Linda will take to USA on Sept 15 for me.

In the meantime my dental appointment got cancelled. On Tuesday I went to PCB to work on internet some more, and that was productive. I called Omar the taxi driver who came to take me to taxi gare at 1pm so I could go back home, it being a quick trip. The return trip was packed also and interesting in the assortment of passengers. Another woman with 4 children got on, and as I had beanie babies with me I gave them to the younger ones, the teen having outgrown such a toy. A woman by the window was suffering from the ever present dust. At the junction to my village, some people got off and others got on. Three men boarded, one in handcuffs. Once at Thyou, I observed them leave on bicycles, with the prisoner riding behind one guard. Perhaps going back to village. Jean from my church was also on transport home.

I planned to go to the fields the next day, but it rained so hard all morning that didn't happen. Instead the neighbor kids and their friend Issa came over to play Uno which we all like. When I got to the clinic this morning there were lots of patients, 3 babies about one year old were on drip IV for malaria, two men were also ill with malaria and on IVs. Coincidentally that day at my lesson time, Karim and I were practicing our Malaria presentation for my quartier. We read the flip chart the health district supplied for the talk on malaria. I read the French and Karim read the Moore' conveniently located on the backside of the flip the audience sees. Tomorrow we'll practice again with a villager Saidou, who will translate my French comments into Moore' and assist with questions and answers as needed. The high point for the disease is this time of year.

On Thursday by 8am the maternite' waiting room is full of mothers and babies waiting for baby weighing. Gansonre comes over to say he will be at the main clinic seeing patients there, while Gilbert, the assistant RN will handle this part. He has me weigh the babies, and he records all the information that is pertinent in both the main register book and on the individual health books the mothers bring in. I report the weight to the mothers in kilograms in Moore'. Some babies cry at the sight of a white woman, but most are OK with my presence. Babies who need immunizations wait for the nurse to return and give injections or drops (polio).

Today they are distributing moustiquaires to the mothers with babies as they finish the process, so that draws lots of attendance. There are over 60 women this morning, some who have not been in for months, come for the mosquito net supplied by the health district. We work straight through to the end which is 2pm. Later on we had another practice session for our malaria presentation tomorrow with Karim, Saidou and myself.

In the evening I had to go to the cell tell place and was talking to Seni, a young man from Koudougou. He thanked me for my volunteer work here and said our country is poor and dirty and the people aren't very educated. Many die of malaria. He practiced his English some as we struggled talking to each other in French and English.

12 September 08

The day for the follow up causerie on malaria is here and we are doing it for my two quartiers. Rain threatened beforehand and also afterwards. The two family chefs and the village chef came. Many people attended also, approx 55. Karim and Saidou arrived and around 9:30 enough people were there to begin. Saidou translated my French and assisted Karim with his reading the Moore'. People were slow to respond to questions, but the village chef spoke up and then others chimed in. They complained there are no moustiquaires for most people and they are too poor to buy them. We encouraged the people to use a pagne (cloth) to sleep under.

13 September 08 Saturday

I am excited to go to the field of Minata today. Madi and I biked through mud puddles the long distance to their field. Minata was there building fire for roasting maize and boiling karite' butter. Madi walked me to the fields where the children were harvesting benga (beans). Abdoulaye proudly showed off two of his fields, where he grew benga and haricot and two of mille. See photos.

We walked further and visited Hamado and Yvette and she had bengado with melted karite' for us to eat, also Hamado gave us dolo. A group of workers were having their lunch there and we joined them. When we returned to Minata's place, the children were grilling maize, and we topped off our lunch with some warm off the fire. The day was fun.

14 September 08

The priest from Sabou came to say Mass, and Maxime, Georges brother assisted him. He was very friendly and teased the people there asking if the season of livernage was over, and the people said No very clearly. Maxime answered the priests question about the theme the bishop of BF has. After service we biked back to Henri and Veronique's home, and watched as Maxime and Edythe got ready to take her to KDG where she will attend school this year.

When we got to the marche' we saw Gilbert the assistant nurse, who said we actually weighed 96 babies on Thursday. I was able to talk to the tailor about my material, Jour de Femme 2008, and she will make me a skirt and top. I will get trim in Ouaga next time I go there.

I had a long conversation with Angie this evening. Her family had driven to baby Cash's first birthday party in Seattle. He is a to-head and walking now. They had a fun time there. Shawn has built them a deck coming out of the kitchen, and they also have outside shower and sauna. Lots of young families enjoyed the barbecue outdoors. They will post pictures.

I read my newest book “They Poured Fire on us from the Sky” about three boys from Sudan and how they survived the war and hunger there and made their long journey to America. It was a miracle they survived and many didn't.

15 September 08

Many patients with malaria were at the clinic this morning. I brought back a balloon for a 3-4 year old boy. A friend of Minata was also on drip and was hungry. I went to little restaurant by road to buy her lunch of rice and soup for 100 francs. I stopped by benga place and Garrett was there, so we ate benga together. In the afternoon I studied the Moringa information a long time as the rains went on for hours outside.

The focus of the next week was doing the VIH-AIDS sensibilisation at the Ipala quartier. I had asked the nurses if they would review our presentation, because the major has been gone to Ouaga. Gansonre did look it over and only made a couple suggestions, which I included. Then Garrett and I practiced with both Karim and Saidou, until we felt comfortable with it.

Three little kids were sick in clinic with malaria, so I gave them those bouncy balloons and the parents liked that. When I was at the market this week a young man spoke pretty good English with me. He told me his friend is on the radio at Sabou at 97.4 on the dial. In Burkina Faso radio is a big thing, everyone listens to it, much like everyone in the USA watches television. Radio is a good medium to get health issues discussed with the public, so PC encourages volunteers to consider doing spots on local stations whenever possible.

Oussmane, Minata and family wants a group photo of themselves. We made plans to take them in the morning when the light outside is very good. So early one morning we spent time doing that. I will make some enlarged ones because lots of homes have pictures of people hanging on their walls. They will enjoy it more in the coming years too.

On 18 October 08 we trekked over to Ipala qt for our sensibilisation on VIH-AIDS with about 30 people. It went OK and there weren't many questions, but we covered it pretty well. The villagers are always attentive when the condom demonstrations takes place.

That day of baby weighing at the clinic, there were 40 plus women, and Gansonre, the major and I worked until 1330 in the afternoon to finish them all. Gansonre used the floor scales to speed things up. So the mother gets on with the baby then by herself and the difference is an approximation of the child's weight. The major wrote the totals in the clinic book. While at the maternite' we harvested some Moringa leaves for my meeting at PC bureau with other volunteers this weekend when I will make Kopto for them. It is a good dip with tortilla chips. We also cropped the tree at two meters in the interior garden for easier access by the women, who do most of the cooking at home.

Later that evening I came to the major's home for dinner and his girls and wife fed me bouillie (broth), gillette (pancake), and ginger drink. When he returned from prayer at the mosque, he gave me grilled chicken to eat. We had a pleasant conversation and he is interested in my plan to talk with the students about dental care.

I spent the next four days in Ouaga. Dan Rooney director of the SED program and our adviser had the core group from the Moringa conference over to his house for dinner. His wife,Tanya fixed fajitas with chocolate cake for dessert. We felt pampered. The Moringa meeting the next day was good and the Kopto snack went over well.

While in Ouaga, I also had my new crown put in by the Brazilian dentist with strong hands. That was important for removing the old one. I also got some shopping done and checked in with the nurse about my diet. She said the protein intake is sufficient, but I need to increase the calories. I will also snack whenever I can during the day. The taxi brousse was broken so we had to take another transport home to Sabou then bike to Thyou, getting there after dark. Garrett came to meet me and help me and my stuff get home. What a relief!

24 September 08

The wind was up a bit and it sprinkled out. Madi is getting packed to move to Bobo, 300K away to the south for school this coming year. He goes to Sabou Thursday to catch the bus there. I gave him school supplies and a pkg of spaghetti sauce, which he loves. Also hooked him up with my great nephew for a pen pal in the states.

At midday my neighbor family was sitting under the hangar husking corn (maize). I joined in and of course took photos. It is the season for harvest coming on, and there are many things to do to dry and preserve staples of the diet for the coming dry season. See the piles of beans, white and yellow corn and gumbo drying in the courtyard.

25 September 08

Four of us biked to Gansin quartier this morning for VIH (AIDS) sensibilisation. They had found two under ripe ears of corn in the field as we headed out. There was dew on the grasses and crops. Fall is here! We also pedaled through two big puddles enroute. Some Gansin women who had been waiting for us were now walking to CSPS for baby weighing. We arrived and waited for more people to gather, and by 9am we began our talk with the villagers, 12 men, 26 women, 30-40 children. They seemed pleased we had come to speak with them. When Garrett and Saidou demonstrated proper condom use, a few giggles could be heard. Definite interest. See photos.

Issaka motoed Ousmane to Sabou in the evening to catch a bus back to Cote d'Ivoire.

I text the major that I'm not coming over to clinic this week because I don't want to give my cold to the patients there. Or to babies at baby weighing, which is my favorite activity.

26 September 08

Friday marche' is always a big one, with lots of people selling and buying. Lizetta is going to market with new potable towel I gave her for baby Julie. See photo. At marche' I was able to visit many friends and give them the photos I had gotten printed for them. I also got Karite' butter in Ouaga for a couple of the women, who were thrilled. I brought my blue lace to the tailor who is going to trim my Jour des Femme 2008 (Women's Day) dress she is making.

27 September 08

My friend, Achille is coming from Koudougou for a visit today. Garrett comes by to discuss numbers of people attending our VIH sensibilisation. We were doing that when Christina called with same question. There is a form on the computer for this. We also discuss what foods are in market and when. This is important information for talks on diet enrichment. We were eating lunch when Achille motoed up from KDG. He and I walk over to CSPS and the place is packed with patients on IVs etc. They have put moustiquaires on every bed there. There is a new baby in the maternite' too. See photo.

As we walk to the barrage we hear many warbling birds in a vibrant shade of red. They fly away before I can focus my camera on them. On the path home there is a man carving a big bowl out of a red wood. The women crush grains and nuts in these for sauce and millet for dolo, etc. We get home in the late afternoon and I prepare dinner and we play Uno to round out the day.

The next day Achille and I went to the 9am service at church and got to visit with Georges, who had led the choir We stopped by the bakery and the boutique to get lunch supplies. I prepared a sack of things for him to take home. Achille left for home at midday. Sonata was outside braiding Zanabou's hair with yarn. See photo. When the wind came up we moved to my porch. Abdoulaye put on a foulard for a joke.

30 September 08 Ramadan

I opened my door to the usual bunch who come in the morning for coffee or tea. Issa told me that the prayer at the mosque is early, so we all got ready and gathered in front of my place. Minata carried the prayer rug, and Zanabou carried a little bench for me. Everyone put on their new clothes for the feast day. They were looking pristine. All the women, including me, had on new pagnes and foulards (head wraps). The children had on new clothes too and some families had matched outfits. We all walked the path to CSPS and met the major at the clinic pump. See photo. We all sat under a big tree there until the people were starting to gather in the soccer field.

It is impressive to witness Ramadan prayer service. All the men sit in the front in long lines. The boys sit behind them. The women sit aways in the back also in long lines. The rest of the children sit with them. The service opened with a respected elder singing verses of the Koran in chant. The congregation knelt, sat and stood, at times with their hands open to the east. They always face east when praying, even at home.

Next, ten or so men formed a circle up front and they recited verses from the Koran. Some held up a cloth to shield them from the sun. Then one man spoke to the crowd followed by an elder. Meanwhile the collection occurred. The service closed with another prayer. See photos.

We walked back home visiting people all the way. At home preparations for the feast of Ramadan were happening. Little girls were pounding the arachide (peanuts) until they were ready for Minata to mash them against an ancient rock with another object resembling a rolling pin. Sonata did most of the cooking. The menu was some of their best foods: pate d' arachide with beef and aubergine, over rice, spaghetti pasta with meat, and finally riz gras, rice with sauce made from fish and aubergine. As I watched this whole thing Minata passed out bissap to drink. The importance of holy days for all the religions practiced in Burkina Faso is demonstrated by social gathering to visit and eat together. I must have eaten four meals that day after noon. And the people are so willing to share what little they have.

01 August 2008

This morning I went to the clinic and chatted with the major about the Ganssen quartier. He clarified that it is 2-3K west of my house towards the Thyou barrage. The Ganssen quartier near his home is that of the little brother to the main quartier. I shared with him the debate I was having with Karim over this information in view of where we do our next sensibilisation, and asked him to mention all this to Karim. I also said to the major that we are planning to start the Moringa Project next Saturday.

After the major left for Fri prayer service at the mosque, the accoucheuse came to chat with me and we spoke in English and French for awhile, then went to the maternite'. We talked with Awa (who has 6 children) from Bolo, who was there to support the younger wife of her husband who had a premature baby yesterday. Awa wants to come to America with me. Awa cooks for the marche' in Bolo and I had my first taste of rabbit there once. I took a photo of her cooking soup/sauce over the fire which she wants a copy of.

In the afternoon Garrett invited me to the celebration of the work of the Swiss volunteers, who had constructed a chicken coup in Thyou. We toured that and then proceeded on to the school where the closing ceremony took place. Many of the older men of Thyou and our church were there. Kabore' Sailif emceed the event. The volunteers had also donated a lot of things to the bibliography (library) they helped set up last year. After the functionaires recognized the efforts of the volunteers, one of the Swiss accepted their thanks and spoke briefly about the inter cultural exchange. One of the female volunteers requested Garrett take photos of the chickens when they arrive and email them so that the volunteer can show the project to their supporters back home. Apparently the Swiss went to Ouagadougou for the chickens, which had been inadvertently exposed to chickens in quarantine and therefore had to stay longer. Sailif had drinks served followed by grilled beef, then Riz Gras.

When we left that event, we proceeded to Alphonse's house where friends and neighbors were gathered for his birthday celebration. Another round of drinks and Riz Gras with many of the same people at both events. One of the older guys led grace after meals and then broke into a chanting of the Kyrie', which reminded me of all the Latin we learned in Catholic School and sang at Mass. Deja Vous!

During my language lesson we studied the new French dictionary for children, then I practiced Moore' numbers, so I can use them to speak with the mothers at baby weighing to tell them the baby weight and whether there was an increase or decrease.

02 August 08

Abdoulaye brought over a letter for Lindsay from Sakinata with a picture she made. I biked to the Sabou marche' today to visit friends and see if I could find a casserole set reasonably priced. After finding that we found pork sandwiches and had lunch. In the afternoon I went to St. Luc's for Reconciliation service. Father Marc and I spoke part in English, but several times he lapsed into French for lack of words. I think we had a common understanding when all was said and done.

There were a number of altar boys in the church practicing for mass. We went to the parish house and visited Father Jacques who recently returned from Italy and was quite sociable as he talked about his time there. The priests gave us a bag of millet grain to bring back to Thyou for Jean Baptiste, the catechist. As we were pedaling back, storm clouds were gathering for rain. By the time we reached Thyou, it started sprinkling. I continued on to my house, where Issaka was waiting for the soccer ball I had for him. Issaka is president of young men's soccer team in Sala. He pumped up the ball, then Abdoulaye did too. But too much, and the burst in my house sounded like a sonic boom. Zanabou came over to color while she soaked her foot because she had a pique (sliver) in it. Madi and his friends were up all night listening to music in front of my place, so I put my earplugs in and slept soundly through all that.

03 August 08

At the Mass in Thyou a priest with a lot of personality taught the congregation a song they can sing at home. He had each section repeat it and it was clear the children learned it best. The regular choral singing and drumming were beautiful. Besides having my swear in dress altered, I visited many friends at the marche' in Thyou this Sunday. I heard that one friend of mine, Sylvie is home with a swollen leg. I will go to her home soon to visit her.

Little Claude came and sat with me at market awhile as we ate fried dough balls. He asked for a soccer ball. I told him one will come from America for him. I got my fruits and vegetables next.

In the afternoon George and Laurentine invited me to go with them to visit all the quartiers in Bangre. Because the rainy season makes some roads impassable, we waded through a pond of water pooled into the road. The path was muddy from recent rains and after several Ks, we arrived at the first quartier to visit an old family chef. Then we visited at a second one with a younger chef who gave me a bag of rice and gave us all dolo. We went on to a third quartier when a heavy rain commenced and lasted for an hour, so we sat in an outbuilding visiting and waiting. The head of this family was a man like a lot of other Burkinabe' who works in Cote d'Ivoire to make money, then returns home to family and farming.

Another little ole man was jesting with me. He wants me to give him one of my daughters, who in turn would give him a daughter. I asked him if he likes cats and dogs. He perseverated though, as he wants a girl baby. I responded that he could ask for himself when my daughter visits here in Nov. We visited one more quartier before heading home. The hour of rain made riding bikes nearly impossible on a path of mud and puddles. The two seasons are intense: the dry season is soo dry and hot, and the rainy season is sudden and long downpours with water pooled everywhere.

I picked up my produce from the marche' to take to my house. When I got home, Karim was there to tell me sensibilisation for tomorrow has to be rescheduled to Wednesday because a man from Bobo is coming to work on the barrage pump system with the young men of the village. Being flexible is key to working here.

04 August 08

Soon after I got up Karim arrived from the direction of the CSPS with Alphonse my teacher friend I met at recent marche'. I invited them in for coffee. We got settled at the table and my neighbor family came over to check out the new visitor. They listened as Alphonse said how grateful he was Peace Corps is in Burkina Faso. He was so enthusiastic about our Moringa project that he offered to take leave of teaching job in Sabou to work for PC. I explained that he could participate in the community project as a volunteer. He said he'd return Wed for the rescheduled sensibilisation. I read more of my current book, “Power of One” after my company left. Then I conjugated verbs to prepare for my language lesson today.

05 August 08

I worked on an essay about the Air/Wind this morning, after braiding my hair. I then went to the clinic and talked with the major about our sensibilisation at the Ganssen quartier by the school, which will be delayed due to Karim being involved in a project at the barrage when all the young men are available. As I walked through the waiting room, I visited with 4 people on drip feeds for malaria. The med staff was all there talking and when they finished I asked Lea the accoucheuse if she wanted to go for benga (beans and rice) with me. So we walked across the street to the little restaurant. We visited in French and English. It is so nice but rare to chat in English with villagers, that it was a treat.

Many villagers were in fields today and as I passed by, I took pictures of them cultivating the haricot (beans) and arachide (peanuts). In one field a row of a dozen women were weeding the field together, moving forward in a line, while they visited catching up on the day's news. I was home studying, when Minata came over telling me she had sent all her prepared food to the field with her children. Hunger on my doorstep. With that hint I made her a peanut butter with banana sandwich. She was very grateful. She said she is raising 6-8 children with little outside help. It is very difficult.

During my language lesson I practiced writing reflexive French verbs and my Moringa presentation that we will do tomorrow. Karim, my Moringa counterpart, came by and we made plans for the next morning. I let him know that Alphonse, a teacher from Sabou and very interested in our project, will be attending. Alphonse wants to do a similar project in Sabou, so I gave him some seeds along with handouts to get started. He asked for my sons names and addresses to share with them how mom is doing things for the Burkinabe' and the people here like it.

Wednesday morning was spectacular, blue sky, sunny and very green trees and plants abounded. We walked to the Ganssen quartier (compound) where our talk lasted an hour and the dozen or so people there seemed happy to learn the benefits of Moringa. We walked back by the CSPS to debrief with the major, who chastised Karim for not going to the main Ganssen compound 3K east of Sala, which is traditionally the one to recognize first. Later that week we were able to rectify this by going out there and speaking to a large group of people at the main Ganssen qt. about Moringa.

On market day, we went to visit my friend Sylvie, who is bedridden with a swollen leg. Her husband Bazille told us last week about her problem. Sylvie was sitting on two mats, sweating with her swollen leg wrapped up in a pagne. She unwrapped it and showed me a drainage hole in her shin. She takes traditional medicine, which was sitting beside her. It was a dark paste which she applies as a compress. This has been going on two weeks now. She believes someone came and put thorns near her front door, where she would step on them, and she doesn't know who. She was fairly discouraged. She is slowly recovering though.

07 August 08

Today was a work party at Kiemtore' Henri's field. I followed Georges and his chariot full of bidons of water led by a donkey to the field 2K away. Many people including Henri were already there working and weeding. I observed how they used the daba tool for whacking at the weeds and followed suit. The trick is knowing good plants from bad, and that takes practice. The group of workers went down several rows at a time, clearing the weeds. We finished one section and then sharpened our dabas and got a drink of water before continuing. We moved to another field of millet and benga and cleared it, all the time the workers were talking and laughing as they went. They were enjoying their time together. We worked together this way until Laurentine came with lunch. We stopped for benga balls and dolo. The men sat in a circle, supported by their dabas. I tried to take a photo of this balancing. See photos.

My PCV neighbor Garrett stopped by my house after I got home in the afternoon and we did an outline on HIV/AIDS for a presentation later for my villages.

The next day we got our plan for the Moringa Project organized for Saturday when the men from village will convene and work together on it.

09 August 08 Moringa Project at Sala

By 8am four of us (Karim, Garrett, Georges and I) gathered at my house to walk to CSPS and clear out the interior garden at the maternite', where we would set the Moringa plants, protected from animals, etc. We sat under the tree in front of the accoucheuse house to mix the dirt, manure, and sand. The village chef had sent over two loads of dirt rich in chicken manure, and we walked over to the forester's bureau to request a wagon full of sand from his driveway. Then we had all the components to start mixing. The 20 young men from each of the three main quartiers of Sala who showed up to help with this project completely turned the mixture two times.

The village elders numbering ten men sat on a bench under the same tree and oversaw the activities. Madi, my neighbor and Alphonse, my friend also helped out. We had a good group of people there. Everyone gathered around the mixture and started filling the 550 sacks. This process went on several hours, then the sacks were organized for watering. After that each sachet received a Moringa seed. We broke for lunch, when Minata brought over Riz Gras for 25-30 people. When we resumed we loaded the sacks into the chariot for easy transport to the back door of the maternite' near the interior garden spot. By early afternoon we were out of mixture and for the most part finished with the project. However Karim, George and I went over to the chef's place and got more rich dirt, to finish filling 40 or so sacks. It was a satisfying day of work as a community with over 500 Moringa sacks as evidence.

10 August 08

This morning I planned to attend the service at Assembly of God church in Thyou. I arrived early, parked my bike by pastor's house and waited on the church steps for the bell to ring signaling the start of church service. I sat on the left side of the church and was quickly invited to the women's section on the right. The elders were in the front left, much like the Catholic Mass, with the young men behind them. The choral groups filed in to sit on the far right and the children filled the front rows of the congregation. Ministers were on the raised platform in front. The assistant minister spoke the first hour. Then the children came in and sat on the left in back. The various age groups were led in song by their music directors. These groups sang most of the second hour accompanied by drummers and tambourine players. (See photos.) In the third hour two ministers took turns singing and preaching scripture. A man came and sat me with a French teacher who translated the Moore' sermon into French for me. I got the jest of the message in Luc and Jacques gospels, “Pick up his cross to follow Jesus.” Several times the congregation got on their feet and prayed aloud, which had the effect of speaking in tongues on me. Even the pastor roamed the stage in loud prayer with eyes closed. They welcomed me.

11 August 08

I ran out of propane gas yesterday, so I requested hot water from the neighbor, who heats it on open fire cuisine. I listened to BBC news regarding the Olympics, etc. And there is power sharing going on in South Africa....regarding the elections last month. The runner up is going to be Prime Minister they say.

After a couple visitors in the morning I got my bath and went to the clinic, where there were lots of malaria patients today. I also went to look at our Moringa project, which as impressive. I ate rice and sauce at Fati's restaurant and visited with her and another woman with baby in tow. As I rode back home, it was very hot and sticky. I organized my paperwork for going to Ouaga, so I could turn in reimbursement forms, etc. When it was time for my language lesson, we sat behind my house in the shade of the house and the maize, which is very tall now. We came back inside my warm house after the lesson as the clouds were gathering for rain and lightening started up all around us. Georges left for home before the big storm broke. It stormed all evening, and I sat on my veranda and wrote the essay on Storms in Burkina Faso.

12 August 08

Gansonre is sick with malaria he said from going to Sopuy 4 days with no moustiquaire. The major is in Soupy today, so Gilbert is treating all the patients, lots of whom have palu. I talked with Lea, the accoucheuse who was finishing up with the last prenatal visit patient. When I went down to the road where the two restaurants are, Salimata had returned with her new baby. She handed her to me and I held her for over an hour, while Salimata prepared the chicken for her marmite, a pot which cooks over the open fire.

In the afternoon I went to the marche' for food. I visited Veronique at the hangar, and friends from Villa were there asking about the pictures of the baptism. We had pork sandwiches and left for home and lesson, when we were stopped by the director of the school in Salou, who thanked me for school supplies. A teacher from Bolo also greeted us and I assured him we were coming back there soon. Before we got home a rain storm broke out. We pedaled fast!

13 August 08

One of the people who visited me for coffee this morning is a petite woman from Salam's quartier, next to me. Mariam shared with me in Moore' that she isn't feeling well. She felt hot and ached all over, and the whites of her eyes were yellow. I suggested the clinic, to which she responded she didn't have any money. When Madi, my neighbor returned I had him go with me to ask Mariam at her home how long she had been sick to which she said two days. We also found out that her children and husband are in Cote d'Ivoire and she has no medical card nor source of income. I invited her to walk over to the CSPS with me for consultation. The nurse assistant checked her over and said it was her blood, diminishing due to past malaria. He wrote her 3 Rx, 2 she could get filled in Sala for 300 francs and Quinine to be filled in next village for 900 francs. When we got back home Mariam proceeded to take two big pills at once and I drew her a picture of the sun and the moon indicating one in the morning and one at night. It is very difficult to see effects of malaria on one's own doorstep.

Salam came with Mariam in the afternoon back to my house to thank me for the help.

Madi had a fellow student, Mimoni visiting from the University in Ouaga and brought him over to speak English with me. We got into a discussion on the availability of texts books, which both students told me are not affordable to them. Their formal English ends with middle school (lycee) and they need encouragement to continue learning and practice.

I had my language lesson in the afternoon. We snapped 20” long green beans for dinner with jerky and some onions it was yummy!

The next day I left for Ouaga on transport. It rained hard, and there were no wipers to see through the cracked front window of the taxi brousse. In the thick of the storm and after I arrived in town, I pedaled to PC bureau as I had to turn in forms and check on some things before it closed at noon for repose. Some emergency was happening with both Sylvie RN and Dr. Luc preparing to travel in response to. The med receptionist said all the drivers were also involved in the emergency and I needed to take a taxi to my dental appt at 3pm. The Burkinabe' dentist rebuilt my front tooth filling layer by layer this time, using an ultra violet light and hoping it would last longer. The other dentist came in to check my recent crown and gum repair he had done, and was very pleased with results, as was I.

15 August 08

I ate my leftovers from last night, rice with peanut sauce, and prepared to go to church for Assumption, which is a big feast day here. The church was packed inside and out. As I stood in the doorway a man gave me a chair to sit on. Turns out we had met before, Laurent is the drummer at Planete Music down de Gaulle Avenue. He invited me to come there again. The Mass was long and beautiful with a full student choir led by the director. Many people had clothing made from the pink pagnes made for Mary's Assumption. The service ended in Benediction with such enthusiasm. The congregation was so into it, they spontaneously started dancing around the altar. (See pictures.) An older gentleman approached me afterwards and was happy I was enjoying and reacting to the music. He also seemed happy my name was Mary.

I caught a taxi to go to the Artisan Village to get some gifts to send home. Later I returned to the PC bureau and stopped by the medical unit to visit Ryan and Sonia, who had been in a taxi brousse accident yesterday and both suffered fractures. They described the chaos during the accident as the bus slid off the road and hit a tree. Sonia said all the seats came unbolted from the floor and many people were injured. They will fly out for surgery soon.

That evening was the Close of Service party for the volunteers who came a year before our group. The Transit House was cleaned up inside and out for the occasion, and people arrived in festive dress to celebrate the night. We had fruit punch to drink and chips with dip before leaving for downtown for dinner, bowling and dancing. The COS group had gathered a slide show of their time in BF. I got the first taxi home at midnight and chatted with Ana about the influence of religion on the lives in Burkina.

The next day Peter, Kevin and I met at the American Embassy over lunch for our Moringa meeting. We were able to discuss how to proceed to gather the necessary information and invite other volunteers to help form a support group. Some volunteers were at the Embassy to watch the Olympics on the television, which showed sports of trampoline and beach volleyball. First TV I have seen since coming.

When I returned to the transit house, Chris was calling me on Skype, and I could see and hear him but he could not hear me, so we ended up texting each other online.

On Sunday Ana and I walked to St. Francis for Mass. Again it was packed and people motioned for us to sit near them on a bench on the side of the altar, so we did. The priests spoke slowly and I could understand some of the French. We visited the marche' after for used clothing and vegetables. By noon the core Moringa group met with SED director Dan Rooney for advise on how to proceed forming our support group. He encouraged to expand Moringa to the global issue of food security. It was a good discussion for our planning. The next day I sent emails to other volunteers requesting their experiences with nutrition in the clinics esp on the days that mothers bring their babies in for weight checks. The collective experience!

A driver took me to my physical therapy appt which I try to schedule each time I'm in town. Gradually the feeling in my muscles hurt during the bike accident in April are returning. The driver also took me to buy 3 Mango trees for my neighbors in village. With his help, I was able to get the trees, my bike and all my baggage to the taxi brousse for returning home by mid afternoon. It rained buckets on the way home and in Sabou we waited 30 minutes for the storm to pass. I held up a sachet and filled it with leaky water three times while we sat there. The road 15K to Sala was flooded in spots, with the rainwater running fast on both sides of the road. (See photos.)

I had help getting everything to my house, where my friends had prepared rice and sauce with pintart meat in celebration of l'anniversaire of Mary's Assumption, a big fete in Africa!

On Tuesday I checked in with the major about my Ouaga trip for medical appointments and Moringa meetings. I looked at the project and about 40 seeds had come up. Garrett and I met in the afternoon to lay out our AIDS presentation we will do together in village in the coming months.

It was an interesting sending a 85th birthday card to Aunt Helen at home. I tried to meet with the taxi brousse driver to ask him to mail it in Ouaga. Other men were in the boutique and helped me explain in French what I needed. The envelope had gotten wet so we transferred the card into a dry one and taped the stamps on. The driver put it in a clear plastic bag for transport. A little thing takes a lot of effort by several people.

After we finished reviewing my French HIV-AIDS presentation in language class today, we had a long discussion about democracy and the history of Burkina. The Burkinabe' are very passionate about it.

21 Aug 08

Isakka's baby has palu, and is very uncomfortable. They took her to CSPS for meds. I tried to find Mariam to give her the rest of the quinine pills I had from her Rx, but she wasn't home. Soon someone sent her to my house. I went to maternite' today to help weigh babies, and there were lots of women and babies there because they were passing out moustiquaires again. Women came from small villages for it too. It was a lot of work and Lea had to record all of the information too. Lea invited me to a meal at her house on Saturday but I told her we would be in Zao doing an HIV presentation.

In the afternoon I went to the market in Thyou for veggies and also to boutique for staples. When I got home I had French lesson and practiced Moore'. Lea came on her moto with a dish of to and sauce. Karim came by for visit and to get units for his phone off mine. I mentioned that I hadn't eaten dinner yet and I was tired too, so everyone left and I made pork sandwich for dinner and retired early.

22 Aug 08

Madi came over for tea in the morning and to study out of the French dictionary, while I studied my French-Moore' reader. I read Newsweek about Obama's faith. Minata said Zanabou has temp and needs aspirin. I gave her non-aspirin, which is better for children. We talked about her entering school and made a plan to go talk to the director in the afternoon with Madi's help. That talk went well and Zanabou is registered to enter school for her first time at age 8. Thanks to Angie's family who gave three mille ($6) for a year's tuition. There will be smaller fees for school supplies too when school starts up mid-September.

I went to the health clinic in the morning to talk with the major about visual aides for AIDS presentation, and they (Philippe and Lea) looked around but no luck finding anything, so we will make do. The major was quite complimentary about the Moringa project. The forester came by and said we need to move the Moringa out of the interior garden, so they can dry out and the air can circulate on them. I walked down the path to Fati's restaurant and watched her prepare lunch, rice with sauce in a big marmite over the open fire. The sauce had oil and chives sauteed, tomato powder, salt, water, gumbo, peanut paste from crushed nuts, black bengado, pima and maggi. The sauce became thicker as it cooked. I ate lunch there when it was ready. It is fun to watch Burkinabe' cook. Fati's son came along with his slingshot, which is a staple for young boys as they often see birds or other creatures to aim at.

At my language class that day Garrett and I had Georges review the Moringa presentation we'd written and he made a number of suggestions. We practiced it once and discussed the condom demonstration we'll do with our talk. Our prop will be an ear of corn (maise). We made our departure to Zao plans for tomorrow.

23 August 08

My usual coffee/tea drinkers came for a cup this morning. Soon it was time to gather things together for our talk with villagers in Zao, 15K away. We stopped by the CSPS to check in with them about our activities today, and left off dishes belonging to the accoucheuse. I texted Patrice, the ASC in Zao to remind him we were coming for causerie as we left. The road was thick with mud from all the rains and riding was more difficult because of that, but the cool air of the morning was perfect riding conditions, and we continued on for an hour and a half. We were resting at the marche' when Patrice found us. He had spread the word and a few folks were gathering. The other ASC, Beli was in the field, so didn't come, but my friend Atia came and we were very excited to reunite after several months. She said she was by my place to visit and the major told her I was in Ouaga then.

Atia took me for benga (beans) at a food stand at the marche' before we walked a short distance to her house, where I met her mother and children. Atia is well liked in her compound, probably the heart of it, as she chatters and laughs constantly and other people do too. She wanted to take me to the field to see Beli, but I needed to get back so we could start the HIV presentation. By the time we started there were 25 adults and that many children gathered. More usually come as we proceed.

Garrett discussed with Patrice the appropriateness of condom demo with children there, and his response was they may not fully understand but others there would and we could proceed. Garrett and I alternated talking and Georges translated what we said into Moore' for the villagers. When we did the condom demo there were a few giggles and one lady shushed the others by saying “Don't laugh, this is important information we need to hear.” We were satisfied with our premiere talk on AIDS. On the way home the rains started and we ended up pretty wet, but felt lucky to have completed our mission today.

24 August 08

We are going to Nabatogo for St Louis fete today in the new church there. It is my first visit to this village, where Georges sister and family live. We biked to Sabou, where we left our bikes and Father Casmere was picking up passengers in his mini-truck for the 25K ride to Nabatogo. The ride was amazing. I sat on a bench in the bed of the truck with my outer shirt over my head to keep the wind and dust out of my face. Father drove fast and we were there in 20 minutes flat. Some friends gave us a small bench, which all the congregation brings with them to sit on in church. All the people worked together to ready the altar for Mass. By 9:20 the church was crammed with people and the singing and drumming signaled the start of Mass with 3 priests to celebrate the first Mass in the new church on it's feast day. Service lasted 2 hrs with 3 babies baptized in the middle of the service and toward the end there were gifts given to the church from neighboring parishes, some as far away as the capitol. In a clearing beside the church there was a lot of festivities after mass, such as dances by groups, acrobats, and of course more music.

Today was the market day at Nabatogo so everyone was in good spirits. After we spent time there, we walked to Georges' sister, Martine and Marcel's house, where she made Riz Gras for dinner and many visitors came to join in that. Since Martine makes dolo for marche' her cuisine area is set up for that. There is a hearth with three vats built into it with the firebox under it. She has three or four vats underground for the fermenting stage which takes three days. I saw the leavening nearby in a huge pan.

Their daughter Edith is about Luke's age and wants an American pen pal, so she wrote him a letter, which I will mail. There was dancing happening that evening in a clearing by where the old church used to be and the teenagers were having a good time with that. We returned to Sabou on a taxi brousse tired but content with the day.

Minata's husband, Ousmane had come from Cote d'Ivoire earlier and was waiting for taxi brousse to Thyou. The rains had flooded the road in some parts and it was slow going. Ousmane had a lot of luggage and borrowed Georges bike to take it home. He loaded my bike with stuff too. We walked up the hill to our houses with help from the youth.

The next morning Karim and I asked the chef to borrow his cherrett to move all the Moringa trees to my verandah. It took us several hours and three trips. Madi and Issa helped us with it.

I had invited Lea for lunch of tuna sandwiches today, as she is leaving Friday for visit of family in Ouaga and then onto KDG where she will continue her schooling. She arrived on her moto and we had a good visit. The major invited me to attend the Monitorage meeting Thursday with officials from the district office in Sapoy. He said the ASCs from our satellite villages will be in attendance too. It is annual talk with the village on the health status of the villages comparatively speaking.

27 August 08

Today my friend from Zao, Atia came for a visit. Issa translated for us as I showed her photos of my family and gave her some jewelry, toys, batteries and things for hers. I made spaghetti for lunch mid day and we have such a good time together in spite of the fact that we can't talk each others language. We spent the afternoon going to the marche' at Thyou. On her head Atia carried a bag of grain to sell, as I rode my bike next to her slowly. We spent the afternoon together there.

28 August 08

The Monitorage meeting that was scheduled to begin in the morning actually began in the late afternoon. The maternite' was full of mothers with infants for baby weighing so I went to help Lea with that. We worked straight through until 12:30. The number was large again because moustiquaires

were being passed out too.

As the funtionaires from the villages and a crowd gathered for the meeting so did the clouds overhead. Two doctors from the district office gave all the statistics on the health status of Sala and surrounding villages. They are concerned about the number of women who birth at home instead of coming to maternite'. Many complications arise from that fact. I had my tutor there to interpret for me.

Within an hour we all had to move inside the maternite' building as the downpour began. It lasted several hours, so being out of the weather felt good, even though it was crowded. We listened to the officials from Sapuy who talked intensely about the health problems. After dark a meal of Riz Gras with meat was served to all the attendees. The medical staff all went to the major's house for their meal. By the time I walked my bike home the puddles were filling the path there and I was wading and giggling in the dark about the experience.

29 August 08

This morning I packed for Ouaga and had to return to tree by CSPS to retrieve my hat I left there yesterday. I planted another round of Moringa seeds in the peau (sachets) where nothing had come up with the help of Issaka and Madi. When I got to the station in Thyou the taxi brousse had gone to Lea's house to pick her up along with her furnishings and luggage. By 11am I got to Transit House and discovered I wasn't signed in. I waited all day for a bed, and none was available—problem!

I shopped at the Artisan's Village for my grandkids and went to PC bureau to get mail and use the internet. I returned to the TH around 6pm to get ready for the Swear-In of the new volunteers. Sarah and I took a taxi to the Ambassador's house and watched the ceremony. It was impressive, and we saw all of our teachers from training, JZ,Vini, Theo, Patrice. We also saw Jeanine and Mark Jackson, and Dan and Tanya Rooney. It was relaxing be a spectator. After drinks and hors d'ourves a PC car took us in groups downtown to the Nameze hotel where the new volunteers were staying and we all walked several blocks to the Moulin Rouge restaurant where we would eat dinner. I was walking on the sidewalk talking to another volunteer.

Enroute two guys on a moto tried to snatch my fanny pack! The guy on the back grabbed it but it didn't pop off, and he dragged me. The driver of the moto took off with me in tow. My Women's Strength training kicked in and I screamed. The voice is a powerful weapon! It seemed like minutes, but was probably seconds that I was sidestepping into the street with them. Luckily I didn't lose my balance and tumble. The grabber finally let go and they sped away. It happened so fast I had no time to be frightened, nor could the 8 volunteers in my group intervene. Afterwards I was very disturbed by the whole event!

When we got the cab home at 11pm I slept on the couch at the transit house, then the guard decided at midnight to discuss my no reservation situation. Three guys, Peter, Caleb and Marty helped me talk with him to allow me to stay and we would settle the problem tomorrow with Dr. Claude. In view of the stress of the attempted theft, I believed we could convince him. They did.

30 August 08

In the morning I pedaled to PC director's home to have coffee with Marti, his wife. Doug Teschner interviewed me about the attempted theft, and is concerned for our safety after hours in Ouaga, as there has been a rash of these kind of incidents. Marti and I visited over coffee and fruit with yogurt while discussing the kids in the BF culture and their survival skills. We talked about the education system too. Interesting discussion. Marti gave me a box to mail my kids a pkg, and also offered to take a box to mail in October when she is flying to the states.

In the afternoon Peter, Kevin and I went with Peter, the pastor of a Ouaga church on a Moringa Tree field trip. He was raised in the Congo and has lived in Africa most of his life. He drove us to the edge of the city, where we went through miles of shantis and slums. It was an eyeopener. We toured the facility and saw Moringa trees, beans, bananas, pumps, and drying trays of Moringa leaves for making powder. We visited with him a long time. He has many stories about his his work in Africa and his many contacts in America who donate to his work here. We drove back by dusk.

Jen's mother is at TH visiting from America with flight out tonight and she offered to take my box to mail. A bunch of us ( 2 Saras, Robert, Lauren, Becky and I) were going to dinner at the Italian restaurant Verdon for Becky's birthday. It was a pleasant evening.

01-July-08

I pedaled to the Sala boutique to buy bread, and stopped next door at Sonata's restaurant to visit her and her two little girls. Yes, they would like some hair things, barrettes for the girls, a comb for mom. This particular morning three women visited me for coffee, as the children played with toys on the floor. Still feeling social at midday, I went to Koutim's hut to visit with her and see the new baby in their environment. I greeted the father, Salam outside. The baby was on a mat to my left, and a small fire for cooking was by the wall on the right. I noted the new baby quilt already in use, was on the line outside drying.

The next morning we rode 15K to Sabou. This is the first chance I've had to visit Nodeere complex and pick up the bag (6 mill) the artisans made for me months ago. We watched another artist draw freehand a village woman carrying a large bowl on her head. We got an omelette sandwich while we waited for the bousse taxi going to KDG, but that taxi was broken so we waited until 10:30am when one came north from Fara. We wanted to attend the ordination of the five seminarians from this area of BF. I checked in at the mission, Notre Dame Petite Seminaire. While in KDG, I also intended to purchase the supplies for the Moringa Project: a pick, shovel, rake, watering can, as well as 500 planting bags (pots). We found all those things eventually and returned to the mission, which was packed for the weekend due to the upcoming ordination. George knew all four seminarians who were staying in the wing where I had a room. He went off to stay with his former mentor, Julien.

Other volunteers, Ryan and Sonia were also staying at the mission and we met them the next day at the post internet. We lunched across the street at Jackson's with them and Melissa, Kelly and Zach. We celebrated Sonia's birthday. She gave me Hearth model papers to copy for my project, while George and Ryan talked about Moringa over lunch.

After leaving the group we went to Achille's work to visit him. He had painted me a canvas drawing of “docteur traditionnel” in BF depicting local health problems. Achille was very happy to see me. I sat and watched him paint team numbers for soccer shirts. Interesting! After he got off work we bought pork to make sandwiches and stopped at the internet cafe to look at pictures I had posted. They rode down the hill to the mission with me to assure my safety, then headed for their own places.

04-July-08

By midmorning we three were biking to visit Achille's mother, Cecile who was cooking at the Lycee kitchen in KDG for the students from out of town, who were there to test for BAC. Two young women were assisting her with preparing vegetables and meat for the noon meal, which was readied on the open fire in a huge pot near the kitchen entrance. (See photo.) We offered her condolences for her recent loss, Achille's father.

We found Achille's brother, Seraphin at his home. We chatted about his recent month long trip to France and his timely return which allowed him to spend the evening with his father before he died. He showed us pictures of France on his hand held computer. Seraphin is very likable and interested in all conversations too. He invited us to lunch across town at a buvette near the Cathedral. He wanted us to moto together but I declined and we biked there instead. We talked about the Moringa Project in village that we are involved with. As we went back towards town, storm clouds were gathering. We spent the next two hours at the internet while it poured outside. Next I went back home for a nap, and Achille went to his house to shower. Later in the evening we ate a peanut butter and avocado sandwich and I found music discs on my computer we listened to. By 10pm I was in bed resting for the jour l'ordination the next morning.

05-July-08 L'ordination

Four of us rode our bikes to the Burkina Parish in KDG, where the ordination service was set up outside with the altar up on the porch and canopes overhead for the rains that threatened. The monsignor of Burkina Faso officiated and spoke in three languages, French, Moore' and Garounsi. Parents were on either side of the altar, and the front sections were reserved for choirs, musicians, and dancers. The procession began with dancers, the entourage surrounding the monsignor, then many seminarians, and finally the five expectant priests. During their vows they lay prostate in front of the altar. The celebration of priestly vows is a solemn and beautiful ceremony, lasting a long time but unique among the rituals of the Catholic Church. (See photos.)

Back at the Petite Seminaire Notre Dame there was a formal reception with a sit down meal for the new priests and their families, who were all lodged there for the weekend. In another building there was a potluck meal for all the visitors and friends of the new priests. As we entered that dining hall a huge pot of Riz Gras was brought in and we were able to partake of that among other quickly disappearing choices and some drinks. We took the taxi brousse back across to Sabou, where I was spending the night with the sisters at the CREN. By the time I biked the 2-3K to their convent it was dark except for the moonlight. I found the first gate, and the workers helped direct me to the second gate for entrance to the CREN and the convent in the back. The sisters were expecting me and had set out a dinner plate for me with the variety of foods they had for their dinner. After that we piled in the car and went back into Sabou to St. Luke's Parish, where the congregation was doing skits and dancing in anticipation of the premiere mass tomorrow of Father Achille, the first young man from their parish to become a priest.

06-July-08

After a quick breakfast, the sisters and I drove to church for the special occasion of the Premiere Mass for Father Achille. We sat together near the left side of the altar, where other medical nuns were already alongside some of the family members who came to this first Mass. As the new priest entered in the grand procession, it was evident that the parish was so proud and happy with this event. The dancers and singers repeating some of the same music of the preceding day, were exquisite. Sr. Margaret joined the French choir to sing. Sr. Mary lent me her French missile to follow along with the mass. The church was all tidied up and a fresh new painting of a chalice hung on the wall, compliments of Fr. Jacques. Georges' brother, Maxime also a seminarian organized the liturgy and timing of all the participants in his quiet, respectful manner. At the consecration the liturgy took on a fresh and personal meaning with Fr. Achille's first time changing the bread and wine into the body and blood of Jesus. Long lines formed for communion. After the final blessing many representatives from the community gave short speeches and donated gifts to the new priest. The highlight was when the parish presented him (by driving it into the church) with a new moto for his work. The finale' was everyone in procession dancing down the main aisle of the church and back up either side. As the nuns joined in, they took me along and we clapped and chanted our way around the church. (See photos.) Afterwards there were many photos taken and a lunch was served at the rectory. In the late afternoon I biked the 15K back to Sala and home, a welcome sight. Minata's adult children, Sonata and Madi were also home from their respective schools for the summer break.

This week Shawn called to say Cash is crawling on all fours and is trying to walk around things. They are packing for six weeks in Guatemala, and staying at a friend's hostel there. They are looking forward to some “family time”, just the three of them. Shawn sent me a copy of the July/August “Sculpture Magazine” with the cover picture and an eight page spread of his double negative art project. I am so proud of him.

Later in the week Wed. evening after my language lesson with Georges and when my village counterpart, Karim was over, we walked to the chef's compound and requested permission to do a sensibilisation on July 18, after planting season is over, if it doesn't rain. Chef Ouedraogo Adama wants us to do the three main quartiers of Sala; Weeg Yiri, Ipala, and Ganssen.

On Thursday Gansonre was just starting to weigh babies at the maternite' when I arrived to help out. (See photo.) There were many people because he is passing out mosquitaires to the mothers of babies and pregnant women, the two most vulnerable groups to get Malaria. Baby weighing is my favorite activity of the week. I spent considerable time working on the French translation of my Moringa sensibilisation during the week.

I spoke to Lorraine and Heather both on the phone during the week. Heather has begun her shots in order to come and visit me. She's had Indigo to a couple different vets to assess what's best for her, sounds like both knees are blown out. Arthritis in animals has to be pretty uncomfortable, just like for us humans. Lorraine's family has been traveling and she and Dave have been working around their place. She's wearing glasses exclusively now. Dave got on the phone to recap my life here and I was rolling in laughter, but it's obvious he follows my blogs.

On Sunday Kiemtore' Henri led the prayer service at church. Jean Baptiste had gone to Nabatogo. Marie led the choir because the new choral director, Matthias was not there. Turns out it is Henri's anniversaire this date, so there will be a party for him at the house this evening and Martine had come from Nabatogo to help celebrate her father's birthday.

I visited the Assembly of God church at noon only to discover that the service finishes at that time. So I made plans to return soon. Madame Kiemde' came up to me then and invited me to her home for a lunch of haricot leaf balls with oil and mango drink. Her girls and she and I sang English, French and Moore' hymns and had fun doing it.

At the agreed hour I met Georges to follow him to his parent's home for the birthday celebration. Friends and family were there. There was a boom box playing Moore' hymns on cassettes, as people danced around the fire, with the guys drumming to the beat of the music. Food and drink was plentiful as everyone was having a good time.

15 July 08

Today Fatimata and Ramata, sisters from my OHG host family arrived in the evening to visit me in Sala. This is a major trip in an unfamiliar part of the country for them. They are staying a week, so my neighbor Madi went on my bike to meet them at the taxi brousse place, after it had been raining all afternoon. As he is close to their ages and also a student, they all became fast friends. Amade' had told me his daughters will come for a visit after their BAC tests, so that is now!

It was a good visit, they enjoyed themselves in Sala, visiting everyone in my quartier, meeting the staff at CSPS, meeting the chef and seeing the sites: the elementary school, both barrages and the Thyou marche'. We visited a long time about the family in Somyaga, and looked at pictures of everyone. They shared that Orokia misses me, and she and Amade' hope to visit too before harvest is finished.

On Thursday I took Fatimata and Ramata to baby weighing with me at the maternite' and there came Salamata (from the restaurant) with her brand new baby girl. She was very happy to see me, as I was her. I had Gansonre tell her I have a baby quilt for her, and she came the next morning to get it. One woman who came in for prenatal visit had a condition where the baby was developing outside the uterus. Gansonre let me observe her belly as he confirmed the problem and gave her a referral to KDG for special care at the hospital there.

Early Friday was the first sensibilisation regarding Moringa Tree and it's nutritional benefits. The chef had said it would be held down by the main road in a hangar in Sala, so Karim, Georges and I along with Fatimata and Ramata took my flip chart describing the vitamins and nutrients in the leaves down there. We were set to do the presentation, Karim with a report on the Moringa conference we both attended and Georges to translate my French into Moore' for the villagers. We had a light turnout, but it was well received and a good practice for the next ones. Karim also described that we will start a project to grow Moringa trees to plant in and around Sala. The people seem to know Moringa but without all the details on the nutritional value. They were interested and want the chance to grow it. Luckily the rains held off until after the sensibilisation.

The three students, Madi, Fatimata, and Ramata got out their BAC study guides and were comparing notes on taking the test recently. It is a very involved process, and includes much detail regarding specific areas of study. Students here in Burkina Faso are very committed to education with the hope of furthering their choices in life. In the late afternoon Madi wanted to show Fatimata and Ramata more of the Sala barrage, so the four of us walked clear around it, stopping along the way to explore the gardens and the dike, etc. It took about two hours and we ended up in Thyou on the other end of the trek. Surprising how big it is! (See photos.) We finished that day up with a long game of Uno, which they really liked.

On Sunday while I was at church, I observed a young man nearby with holes in either flip-flop and afterwards I asked him to come by my house as I wanted to give him a new pair that my friends had sent from America. We stopped by the marche' to get some things and lunch before going home. Some folks from the church in Sabou were at the morning service, so we asked them to take some Moringa seeds back for the nuns there as a thank you for my lodging the past weekend. The sisters are leaving in a couple days for a month in Italy for the worldwide 25 year anniversary celebration of their order. I hoped they would plant them before leaving Burkina Faso.

In the afternoon I worked on translating student letters into English from the school in Zao. I want to mail them when I'm in Ouaga next week. Also in the afternoon we washed Moringa leaves donated by Pascaline, so I could prepare Kopto for dinner. It is made with peanut butter, tomatoes, onions, garlic, oil and seasoning. It is very tasty and nutritious too.

Monday morning early we three were packed and ready for the return trip to Ouaga, where the girls would catch a bus on to OHG and home. We had help getting to the Shell station to catch the ride. The girls and I talked a lot on the way to the capital. Fatimata wrote me a note saying, “Many African people like you. You need to stay in Africa. You give gifts to the children, women and men. It is good.” When we got to town and asked directions to the bus station, the girls shared with me that they were out of money. They were timid to say that, and borrowed 5 mille to return home. It was difficult to part, but joyous to have had the visit at the same time.

My trip into Ouaga included a Physical Therapy appt to work on strengthening my muscles since my accident in April. They use ultra sound and heat packs and it seems to work well. I shopped at the Artisan's Village for gifts to send home. I also got to visit with other volunteers in town and eat a couple meals out in nice restaurants. We had a taco feed one evening orchestrated by Courtney, an excellent cook and a volunteer from South Carolina. I also chatted with Josh, who recently became engaged, he asked what I thought was the secret to a good marriage. My answer: keep a sense of humor, and talk to each other lots, and be interested in your partners likes and activities. We all went to a good-bye luncheon for Helen, who has just finished her service and is returning to the US. She agreed to take a pkg to mail for me. Helen is going to start her Master's Program at Tuft's University in Boston soon after she gets back.

Lindsey was in town with her family from USA and we had a good visit. She recommends the bed and breakfast “Karite' Bleu”, down the street from the Transit House for out of towners. The country director asked me to dine with Annette, a new staggiere who is returning home to be with her mother during major surgery. She is sad to part. On Friday I packed up to return to village.

 

"Mefloquine-my antidote for malaria"

As I visit the health clinic in my village the number one health condition that brings people of all ages for help is malaria, both simple and grave. If villagers come in with early symptoms the IV drip with antibiotics, vitamins and blood boosters works well and rapidly. Time precludes waiting for test results in Africa. All people with symptoms are treated for malaria as a precaution.

If patients come in later, the symptoms are grave and harder to resolve. The fever and all over body aches progress in a short time to vomiting and delirium and kidney failure. It's faster with children.

The Peace Corps requires its volunteers to take regular prophylaxis-usually Mefloquine weekly. Even if the female mosquito, Anopheles, bites one, the antidote interrupts the venom traveling to one's liver. The reputation of Mefloquine is that it can make some people crazy, which I think is overstated. The drug is also known to make one's dreams very intense, which I inferred meant violent. Surprisingly, dreams are "vivid" and seem real, but are quite pleasant. The problem is they drift away quickly, so one can't remember, but the lingering sense is positive. "Pas de probleme".

***25 July 2008

Friday evening there was a big BAC feast in Thyou at the home of Jean honoring honoring their son's graduation from the university with a degree in public administration. There were lots of family and friends, many from our church, exquisite food, drinks, microphoned speeches in French and Moore', music and dancing. I was happy to experience this family event shared with the community.

Saturday

I had visitors for tea and coffee early next morning when I opened my door. Issaka, in his forty's and who is diabetic, shared his medical file with me and explained that he is able to handle that by diet at this point, and wondered if it will always be with him. He also takes pills. Issaka lives most of the time with his family in Cote D' Ivoire, and visits his family in Sala every few months. He always brings gifts, bikes, clothes etc. Abdoulaye blew up the soccer ball I had sent from USA and the neighbor boys love playing with it. I had time to read more of “Power of One”, set in Africa.

I got my house in order for company, Becky and Christina. In the afternoon Christina text me that the axle broke on their vehicle and they waited all day for another one to get there and installed. They arrived from KDG to Sabou right before dusk. I biked there to meet them. Linda was on the same transport heading south to Bobo area. They were having fun conversing with other guys on the transport, giving them fictitious info. It took 20 minutes for the workers to get her bike off the top of the vehicle and her bags attached to it. We left in the dark slowly making our way to village down a challenging road filled with ruts from the recent rains. No moon to guide us.

When we got past Thyou, George and Laurentine were waiting for us at the cell tell place and had brought dinner for our arrival. We all continued on to my house. The pate d'arachite sauce over rice was delicious! Exhausted we retired for the night.

The next day we went over to the clinic to meet the major and other med staff and take the tour. There were 4-5 patients with malaria getting treatment. There is a new accoucheuse, Leah. I showed Christina the little shops in Sala and we rode out to the barrage. I lost my sense of direction and soon we were heading for Bolo. I realized my mistake and it took a while to return, but the villagers we asked helped redirect us. We fixed tuna sandwiches, then pedaled to Thyou to meet with Becky who bike from Sabou that afternoon. We met up there and relaxed at the buvette for a drink. We visited Garrett while in Thyou, so the PCVs could see his surroundings. We met a man Saidou Kabre' who is a successful businessman in Ouaga, and is back here to thank the group of 6 Swiss youth volunteers who are building a bibliography and chicken coup near there.

Another tour of meeting the major and visiting the clinic happened for Becky's sake. The major had moved into his new home by the CSPS while I had been gone last week, and he visited with us out front. We stopped by the chef's compound on the way home. He was happy to meet my visitors and teased Christina about staying to be another wife for him. We arrived home to more company, who ate with us and we were all set to play Uno when a storm started brewing. So people went home and we readied for the night. It is so fun to have fellow PCVs visit me in Sala!

The following morning Christina took the taxi at Thyou back to Ouaga, and later Becky took one from Sala back there. It was a short but sweet visit and we all promised to make it happen again.

Karim showed me where the Ipala quartier is, which is a long way west of Sala on a path filled with last night's rain. We returned via the CSPS and weighed 3 babies at the maternite' with the new accoucheuse.

In the afternoon I made my usual trip to the marche' for vegetables and fruits, etc. Then I had my language lesson and practiced the Moringa presentation again. George told me there was a murder in Bolo last Friday night and a man was locked up in Sabou regarding that. He knew the victim's brother from our church.

29 July 2008

We gathered at my place to pedal to Ipala quartier for sensibilisation on benefits of Moringa Tree. We have visual aids including pruning a branch off the M tree at the maternite' to use for our talk. The sous-chef was Ouedraogo Boureima, Karim's father. Women gathered numbering 30-40 and the men numbered 20. A few children were present. The talk was well received and we spent some time on a question about insects and Moringa. We debriefed with the major afterwards.

30 July 2008

Garrett went to Ouaga today and brought back a big envelope from Shawn, his Double Negative project in southern Nevada was featured in the current issue of “Sculpture” magazine, with a great photo on the cover and 8 page article. Wow! I couldn't be prouder. Lorraine called to tell me how great the article was too.

I sat on the porch and watched a storm coming in the distance. Before the COGES meeting in the late afternoon, Georges came to review the summary of my activities in a report I prepared for it. I was allowed time at the end to give a short recap. At the end of the meeting, Gansonre passed out moustiquairres to all the members there. It is part of the big campaign going on now to distribute them to all pregnant women and mothers with babies.

The next day was Thursday, which means baby weighing in village. The turnout was tremendous because word had gotten around that the mosquitairres would be given out. So the maternite' was overflowing with women and babies, some who hadn't been in in a year for it, were there today. It was also a chance to update vaccinations that were overdue on some babies too. I would guess I weighed over 40 babies that morning, many from my own quartier. I want to ask my language teacher to help me learn how to tell the mothers in Moore' the weight of their babies.

I went to the marche' in the afternoon and returned home via the Thyou barrage, where George washed my bike in the rippling stream nearby. See photos.

Garrett texted me that the Swiss were having a celebration the next afternoon and we were invited to attend.

Fire

Before dawn Burkina women light a fire with small dry weeds and twigs. Gradually they add stems and sticks, progressing to large limbs and thick pieces of dry wood. Burkinabe' regulate the heat by the size of the fuel and the action of pulling branches in or out of the fire. Fires are made both outside and inside next to the walls of the house. Some houses have a separate building exclusively for cuisine preparation, somewhat of a luxury here.

Usually there are three big stones spaced in a triangle around the heat source, a tripod of sorts to balance the marmite (pot) on. This kettle has a rounded bottom. Depending on the cuisine the fire can be flaming, smoldering or white hot. Sometimes a woman has two fires of different size for cuisine side by side, much like two burners on a stove. I have seen peanuts in shells put in the fire, then removed by hand w/o burning the person.

Little kids light a pile of straw in the winter in the field and huddle around the heat to warm themselves. People carry burning embers to share and ignite other fires. When the villagers want to harvest honey from way up in the trunks of big trees, men climb into the trees with a blow torch and the fire sends the bees away while they harvest the honey.

“Le Vent” (wind)

The wind is welcome to cool the body and inform one about the weather changes coming. It can be quiet and uncannily calm, and then the wind rapidly converges near the earth to announce rain is imminent. And it comes, most often suddenly!

One day I was walking to the market and behind me dark clouds were gathering—the wind came and people nearby shouted, “La pluie!” (the rain) meaning take cover! I glanced over my shoulder to see the wind whipping up very fast. I stood next to a clay wall (insufficient cover), so I made a B-line for a hangar, about a block away. I asked the family who encouraged me to enter. But by then the rain was coming in horizontally. Two shopkeepers observing this activity ran to the hangar and invited me into their shop, protected on all sides. People gathered there visited and passed the time together under cover. In an hour the intense rains subsided, water running in streams on paths, roads, pooling in lower spots. Instinctively Burkinabe' know the storm is finished and commence their previous activities.

Another day I heard the wind nearby and went outside to see what was happening. The sound was a whirlwind, a spiral of dust and debris going across the field in front of my house and heading towards the chef's compound. It looked to be a 25' column that got diffused by a half dozen old trees in its path. In this area of farming one can see the effects of the wind from one side of the horizon to the other.

On a very still hot day (100 degrees) I get on my bike and as I gain speed I am reminded that the air flows around moving things in a most refreshing way. I close my eyes and make a mental note of this welcome brief relief from the heat.

After sundown, when the temperature is still high, I stand at the north edge of my veranda and leaning over to face west, I can catch the beginning of the evening breeze that cools the African land here. I thank God again for the air.

01 June 08

This Sunday we pedaled 6K west of Thyou to Mass in the small village of Goumogo. After riding uphill out of Thyou, the land levels out for a long distance. Lots of women were in the fields planting. Many people were on foot going to the petite hangar at Goumogo for the service. Following the mass, the priest blessed the vat of water, with the eucharist minister putting salt in the shape of a cross onto the water. People filled their containers with “holy water”. Then the priest and the congregation walked over to the new home of the eucharist minister and blessed the structure. The finale' was drumming and dancing to celebrate the beginning of planting season.

02 June 08

This day we biked into la brousse (the bush) 9K to Bolo to give a presentation to the people. The health liaison in village met us at the marche' and Babou said the people will come in from the fields at noon and there will be an audience for us. I spoke in French requesting the people to help determine their main health problem. My language teacher translated my words into Moore' for them. The headmaster from the elementary school came for the talk and when we divided the people into two large groups he took one and Georges and Babou took the other. Much discussion took place before the voting on the principal health problem in their village. Malaria (palu) was named the number one health concern. After the wrap up and passing out cookies and water, the liaisons got us wonderful pork to eat with pima (hot sauce). We stopped by the water pump to refill our water jugs before biking back. Then we rested at a picturesque spot near the million year old boulders and decades old trees growing in the crevices.

I researched for the causerie (talk) at Dana on Wednesday regarding “Maladie de L'eau” (sickness from bad water). I text Dr. Claude for ideas and illness information on the topic. She responded quickly and it helped me get ready. Before our conversation ended she let me know that following my letter of interest I will be the health volunteer going to the Moringa Tree Conference in OHG mid-June. I am happy.

04 June 08

We prepared for our presentation in Dana, stopped by the clinic and chatted with the major and head nurse about Maladie de L'eau and they agreed it was a good idea to link it to hygiene, a talk I have given before. An hour later Garrett, Georges and I arrived in Dana, where we visited the school first. The headmaster Maiga Ousseine and two teachers sat on the veranda with us as all the students looked on. I had a big bag of school supplies sent to me by Jan Myers and Dafna Margalit. The director said they would give them out as prizes at the end of the school year July 10. See pictures. They brought a crippled boy to us and asked if I would inquire about resources for him in the capitol next time I go there. Seni is 9 years old and has been handicapped since birth below his right knee. He can't walk on that leg, so he hops on one foot. The school was pleased with our visit and invited us back anytime.

When we got to the marche' in Dana and met with the health liaisons, Babou and Bitiou, they said they did not have enough notice to inform the people in time for the presentation. And the villagers are in the fields planting. So we agreed to come back in 9 days.

The next day was baby weighing and I helped the nurse Gansonre with this. He does a cursory health check on the babies between the weighing and vaccinations. He checked one baby who had air in the stomach from latching onto the nipple insufficiently. He asked me to help communicate with the mother about this issue, so I got out my La Leche book, copied the pictures showing how to stimulate the baby's mouth to open wide, put the nipple way into the mouth and position the baby close to the mother. This mom was grateful and took the pictures home with her.

Later I made a chart to explain to the COGES my activities for the last two months in village, esp. the presentations with the villages on health issues and what they said were their main problems, and the follow up talks that have happened and are planned to.

07 June 08

We got the taxi brousse to Nabadago to visit Georges’ sister Martine and husband Marcel and family. We will spend the day at the big marche' there too. It is on the main route to Ouaga, and a very busy place. We walked a distance from the town to their home and visited the family there. We saw the original homestead of the Kiemtore' family. The land here is flat, very green and with the blue sky, it is pleasant as far as the eye can see. We walked through several fields planted in millet and arachide and coming up nicely. Marcel was using his slingshot (lancefier) to scare goats out of the fields. Martine makes local beer for the marche' and had already taker her bidon there for the day. When she returned we all walked to the marche', strolled around, and after several hours we were famished. We found pork for sandwiches and the four of us picked a quiet place to eat them. In the late afternoon we caught the transport back home to Thyou. It was a fun day.

Sunday afternoon I rode to Thyou to charge my phone at the station, and chatted with the guy there, when Madame Kiemti came over to say hi. She invited me to her home and heated up to’ and sauce with fish in it. She cut up a large mango for dessert. Her daughters, Jedidiah and Alie were there engrossed in playing with their new puppy. We looked at the family photo album and discussed friends they have made in other countries, some of the French friends were in the album. Ms. Kiemti's husband runs the local Sodigaz store, selling propane. She sent me home with a dozen pintard eggs.

This week I spoke to the major and Ouedraogo Karim, my counterpart about the Moringa Conference in OHG mid-June and it is all set, and quite exciting to be connecting with an inspired group from five countries in West Africa as we try and tackle the malnutrition problem this way.

10 June 08

I had to go to the capitol for the dentist, Pablo Rojas, to set my new crown in place the next day. It was made in France and fit perfectly. They sent me home with antibiotics and care products.

I had a fun time at the Artisan's Village which houses many, many shops with handcrafted items by the local artists here in Ouaga. I could spend my whole living allowance on gifts and nice things to buy. Lucky I don't live in the capitol. I got boxes together for Lexi and Jodi who both had birthdays recently. Andrea will mail them when she goes to America next week.

While in town and next door to the PCB I visited Handicapped International Agency, who gave me a referral for the crippled boy from Dana, so I can take that info back to them. Apparently there won't be any fees for the service because it is provided by a government service.

The evening of June 11 twenty of us celebrated Keisha's birthday with her. We met at Vita's for dinner and Jimmy's for dancing. Keisha had made a birthday hat to wear, sort of a crown. It set the tone. Everyone had a good time. The next day I returned to village, happy with results of my trip to Ouaga.

13 June 08

We rode to Dana school with the resource info for the little boy Seni from “Centre D'appareillge Orthopeolique” de Burkina. They seemed happy with that. We got to the market place mid-morning and waited until midday for a crowd to gather for the causerie regarding Maladie de L'eau. I gave info in French, Georges translated into Moore' and Babou translated into Garoussi for the people. There was much discussion around the hygiene poster I had made regarding the issue of breastfeeding only, for one year, and the women saying they are pregnant by the time the baby is less than 6 months old. There's definitely room for a family planning talk here. The hand washing demo was also of interest to the villagers. I demonstrated it, then a woman volunteered to do it and finally a child of maybe 8 years and everyone had a chuckle with us. They seemed pleased with the presentation.

Late that day we were able to get to the marche' in Thyou before it closed and buy my vegetables.

On Saturday I wanted to clean my bedroom thoroughly because there had been mice in there. I gave it a spring cleaning. I was also leaving Sunday for OHG and the Moringa Conference for most of the week. I spent the better part of the day getting my house and packing in order. The major is driving Karim and I to Sabou in the morning to catch the bus to OHG. That is a relief because normally transportation on Sunday is minimal in village.

“L'eclair” (lightning)

The horizon is visible full circle here in the Africa village, no tall trees or buildings block the view. I look across the horizon in the distance above the canopied trees and notice lightning pulsating behind them, like a glorious climax to a Broadway musical. The entire breadth of the scene, maybe 180 degrees to 360 is spectacularly bright as it lights up the background at once.

Then the rains commence, a huge deluge but after an hour, a steady more gentle downpour. The symphony of lightning on the edges adds an excitement to every storm. My eye is drawn to the sky overhead where a jagged lightning bolt rips, followed in seconds by the roar of thunder. The extreme brightness of the lightning confuses my mind with daylight during this night storm.

Like headlights coming at you over a hill, sometimes the lightning courses across the sky horizontally in giant fingers extending their reach to the far corners. Spots of lightning silhouette the African grain huts in the foreground, as well as the grand old tees in the background.

The thunder turns to rumbles as the storm moves away and the wind inevitably pushes the clouds, thus the humidity escapes for now. And the cycle continues...

Continued

15 June 08

I found Salam in his quartier and explained what the major recommended for his eye problem, which is to go to KDG to the eye clinic at the hospital for antibiotic. He seemed to know that already. He offered us dolo and we met visitors, one of them his daughter. They were sitting near the place of sacrifice (chicken). I was later advised to stay a respectful distance from the sacrifice, which the men handle.

On Sunday the major drove Karim and I the 15K to Sabou where we caught the Staff bus at 10:30 and were in OUA within an hour. Rapid! As we hailed a cab, Babette, an experienced volunteer from the east coast came over and said she has a cab going to the transit house and would we like to join her. That was great!

We hung out a couple hours there until Doug Teschner, the PC country director for Burkina Faso came for us. Also traveling to OHG were his wife, Marty and the GEED director, Zallia. We had a good visit en route. Mr. Teschner was scheduled to greet the new stagierres who were in turn meeting their host families that day. The director asked me to say a few words to the new prospective volunteers. I told them that eight months ago I was doing what they are doing today, and the link to BF culture is smoothed so much by the host families for we Americans. I shared with them that my host family, whom I came to love, will arrive shortly to visit me and I am excited.

I talked about JFK being my inspiration some 40 plus years ago. I talked about our families back home supporting us, in my case it is my children. In their case it is their parents. I said “By being here, you are already giving to the people of Burkina Faso. It will only get better.”

That week Karim and I with the BF group spent three intense days with volunteers and counterparts from four other countries, Benin, Ghana, Niger and Togo. We learned that many things are going on in their countries with Moringa, as they have been involved with their projects up to ten years now and BF is really just getting started. The workshop was conducted in both French and English. There was a lot of energy and excitement about the value of Moringa tree for Africa. We all believe the vitamins, minerals, and nutrients in its leaves, roots and trunk can change malnutrition in the world. Our hope is to develop a Moringa manual for volunteers and counterparts to use in country. Additionally we hope to come up with the ideal training model along with ideas for community involvement to aid all those people interested in Moringa development in West Africa. Niger made Moringa recipes that we all tasted on the last day. One countryman sold seeds, so we could get started back in village.

I had a chance to visit my host family, Amade' and Orokia during this conference, as well as two of the chidren, Fatimata and Ramata. The next day I was excited that Azita and Amade' were in town on the moto when I walked back to ECLA, so I got to see her too. The girls will come for a visit to Sala after they finish their BAC test later this month.

Back in village, Karim and I debriefed with the major regarding the Moringa Conference and discussed our hopes for a project in Sala. We have a list of things to get in KDG for the project. We also met with the village chief and the forestry director, Budha Mohammed to discuss our ideas amd information. We will look in the marche' Sunday in Thyou and start pricing items we need.

22 June 08 Sunday

The hangar at church was packed for the mass today. They nearly ran out of hosts at communion. Georges led the choral group and they had a practice session afterwards for the anniversary of Jean Baptiste which will be Tuesday morning. I was personally invited to come.

A bunch of us went to the marche' in Thyou. I shopped for vegetables and fruits, then took my l'ordination 2008 material to the tailor for a dress to be made. I met with Karim to look at the things we may need for the Moringa project, and then we ate sandwiches at the market. Later in the afternoon I received a call from Mdm Kiemde' who was at my house for a visit, so I scurried home. I served tea and teriyaki beef jerky to Mdm Kiemde' and Veronica, the teacher from Thyou who were both there. Veronica said there is a Moringa tree in the schoolyard, which I will visit tomorrow.

The next day we found the tree, which was bare at the moment. But we discovered that Ouedraogo Pascaline has a large fenced compound with lots of Moringa trees of various ages. She is willing to give us leaves and seedpods. She also shared a bucket of mangoes with us.

That evening the sky clouded up and soon lightning burst out overhead. It was a fantastic show!

24 June 08

There were two priests to say mass for Jean Baptiste's anniversary. The choral group did an outstanding job under Georges direction and he sang a solo, all a tribute to Jean Baptiste. After the service I was led over to the hangar where the dignitaries were being served a meal. Meanwhile the drumming and dancing began in the area behind the church hangar. It was a fun time for all.

In the late afternoon the causerie planned for my quartiers got cancelled when the chef came and said the people are still in the fields. Re-scheduling has been a regular visitor to my work lately. It rained all the next day.

26 June 08

I went to the maternite' for baby weighing this morning. I got to do one baby with Philippe, RN, who told me that twins were born overnight to a couple from Bolo. I visited them and gave them a baby quilt and showed the mother Ali the LLL book pictures on positions for holding twins for nursing. I managed to take a photo.

After my language lesson that day, two headmasters arrived at my house, one from Zao and the other from Salou. Kuba Bonaybi brought the letters from his school's students, and I gave both men supplies for their respective schools. Ky Simplice wants reading books for his school. I can send the letters after translating them into English, when I go to KDG next week.

On Friday I rode down to the barrage in Sala and watched two boys using nets they circled and threw into the water. The barrage is filling up again. See photo. The rains are also bringing out red velvet bugs that are scattered around the ground.

On Saturday I checked in with the tailor about my dress she is making. It is not finished, so I will come back another day before we go to KDG. Bazile and his wife were slated to come to my house.

to play Uno this day, but there is a big funeral in Thyou and they will reschedule.

29 June 08 Sunday

I was getting ready for church when Kotim carrying her new baby girl arrived for a visit. Minata had told her I had a gift for her, the "Wild Roses" quilt that Sally made. When I discoveed that this baby was Kotim's ninth child, I shared with her that the quilter, Sally also has nine children. Kotim was radiant and she looked in good health after three days having given birth. This was meant to be. She stayed for coffee and photos.

I pedaled to the mass celebrating the feast of St. Irene' the patron of our church in Thyou. George led the choral group and said the readings plus talked after mass, as did others about the new church under construction. After mass we went to the marche', then to the home of an older man, Irene', whose family had a feast for his anniversary. I had danced with Awa his femme at the feast for Jean Baptiste. I like her a lot, as she reminds me of my mother, in her zest for life. I took a picture of the couple too and the muscians preparing for the dance.

George went home to check on his pintards, who were getting out somehow. We didn't stay at the birthday celebration long.

We went home to prepare our summary of the Moringa Conference to present at the COGES meeting tomorrow. Karim was there waiting and we all worked a couple hours on it. The guys want me to make Kopto (Moringa recipe) for the meeting tomorrow.

30 June 08

We went to Pascaline's house to harvest enough Moringa leaves to make Kopto in the afternoon. She had the Kiim tree, used for insect control. The meeting began when a quorum was there, plus Philippe. Karim said his part in Moore', I said my part in French with George translating it into Moore'. I also gave them a chart of my activities over the last month. We ate the Kopto until it was all gone. It was a big hit!

Cultivateur (farmer)

Burkina Faso is principally a farming country. In May the people start preparing the fields. Early in the mornings (6am) the villagers leave with a charret (wagon) full of manure and compost, dabas (diggers), rakes, water jugs, and supplies for the day. Wood and debris are removed from the fields and the work of turning the soil by hand begins.

In June (start of the rainy season) planting begins. Most farmers use a wide three tine rake to mark the rows to seed. Then everyone plants graine (seeds). A chop at the row with the daba (hoe) lifts enough soil for one to deposit a few seeds, i.e. 6 millet and 1 haricot (bean), or a couple arachide (peanuts) or a few gumbo (okra), maise (corn) and petit mill (rouge). Fields of rice are planted wherever there will be standing water.

Africans are bent over from the waist all day in the fields. Their hands toughen with callouses. They are barefoot. They work in family fields in family groups and sometimes in long lines, people working a field together to aid one another. This activity is also a social occasion, exhibited by voices calling out across the way to the next field. They laugh together, sing together and eat together in the fields. The villagers bring their food for a picnic and a small jug of local dolo for the adults at breaks, water for the children.

Every age works together day in and day out. I have heard no complaints. When I ask they respond "If you want to eat in the dry season (winter), you work the fields in the wet season (summer)." Because here in Burkina Faso there are only two seasons!

06-May-08 Return to Village

For a more comfortable ride than the taxi brousse, I was driven to my village by a Peace Corps driver, Michelle, who is Dr. Claude's niece. I was able to bring my pkgs and medical supplies, as well as make a couple stops on the way to send mail and pick up music cassettes. It was a warm reception, as many people in my quartier (compound) visited me on my first day home. Georges and Laurentine came with a meal of fish and condiments and bread. They said they had been over frequently while I was gone, to check on my return date.

One evening Minata prepared my spaghetti because I still have no propane for cooking. I had problems with the temp repair of my broken tooth, and that prompted a call to the medical unit. Sylvie checked with the PC to see if my crown would be made here or in Dakar, Senegal where PC in western Africa has a contract for specialized dental care. In either case I will return to Ouaga in three weeks for that. The major and Gansonre came for a visit and we made plans for refilling my propane tank that afternoon. Adama the pharmacist stopped by briefly. Then the two new female nurses in training came over. They work here at Sala until May 30 when they return to their schooling in KDG.

When my teacher came the first time for my lesson, we reviewed the student letters I was translating into French and made corrections. That same evening Issaka from the Gannsin quartier came for the soccer ball I bought him in Ouaga for the guys in his family.

My friends and family from America called to check on me. My classmates are doing a reunion, so I got news from Lorraine and Sally regarding our fellow graduates, complete with the health update on all. That topic gets nearer and dearer with age obviously.

The next weekend my KDG friend Achille came for a visit. We sat outside a while, trying to relax in the heat. When we did go inside to have dinner, Abdoulaye was over and the major's son, Ousmane, joined us in playing Uno. Achille was so tired he kept falling asleep, so I urged him to lay down. Georges came by and played cards too. Minata came over to visit about this time. By 11pm when everyone left, I could retire on my lipico and was asleep in seconds.

The next morning Achille and I walked to the CSPS to visit the major, after which we walked to the diminished Sala barrage. Achille talked about his family, particularly his brother Seraphine who is visiting a friend in France for a month. His father was Muslim and had four wives, then married Achille's mother and became Catholic. I asked how the women deal with their feelings toward one another when there are multiple wives. His response was that in many families it does present problems. He also talked about why he won't drink. When he was very young, he drank dolo and was staggering and fell over. He can't shake the bad memory. On our way back, we passed the big tree at the foot of the hill from me and we visited with the village chef there. Under the hangar at home, Minata was husking yellow chunks of powdery stuff. We sat there and chatted a long time. We discussed when I go over to KDG the next time, Minata wants me to buy her cabbage, onion and tomato seeds for her garden near the barrage and Achille will show me where to get them.

Achille loaded up on batteries and tie downs plus a sack lunch and headed out for home late morning. I had a nap and was ready for the 30 minute walk to the marche' via the Thyou barrage. It was warm and sunny when I left, but after minutes of passing the barrage, a dust storm suddenly was within seconds of my route. People shouted for me to take cover. I got into a hangar where a family was standing too, when the heavy rains started. Two guys from their boutique came and ushered me over there, which was more protected (no open sides). I waited an hour, then people resumed their regular routines. It is interesting to observe how in tune with the weather, Burkinabe' people are. Even the kids can tell when the weather is going to change.

I started shopping for vegetables at the market, when Connie and Michael called me. She's definitely coming at Xmas, and depending on Michael's work he may be able to come. Angie called to wish me Happy Mother's Day, and talk about my never ending list. I bought some fresh fruit and veggies, then pork for a sandwich and joined some of our friends at the church hangar. George walked me home, because it was getting dusk. Before I got there, Heather called too. She has two job interviews in Portland this week, but last week she flew to Santa Clara for her first interview. She has begun her shots in view of her planned visit to me this Fall. She will make final decision after her job prospects level out.

Mid-May Doug Teschner the BF Peace Corps Director phoned me to express empathy regarding my accident, as he had been out of the country the past two weeks. He also called to say the American Ambassador wants to visit me this coming Saturday with her husband. They like weekend outings I understand. She will bring lunch.

Since I had translated all the American student letters into French, and had made 2 copies, I had an envelope of letters for Sala, Zao, and Salou. I took the first batch over to Sala elementary and gave them to the headmaster Edouard. He explained that the CP1 students can draw, but don't write until they reach CM1 level. I suggested having the CP1 students draw a picture and the CM1 students write a letter in response to the American student letters. He will collect them and bring them to me before I go to Ouaga next week, when I can send them.

While I was brushing my teeth, my broken tooth came clear out. Nothing keeps one humbler than a missing tooth!

On Saturday, 17 May I did receive a phone call from Jeanine Jackson that they were enroute, and within the hour she and Mark pulled up in their 4X4 with the English steering. They had been all over Africa in this blue Land Rover, and it had a pop out tent up on the roof. Quite exciting! Swarms of kids and animals appeared. After the initial introductions to the leaders of my quartiers, Salam and Amadou, and Ousmane, my landlady's husband, we went inside to have our picnic lunch. That consisted of sandwiches, fruit salad, hummus with pita, fresh strawberries and sodas. I learned they met in Germany in the foreign service. They have been in Africa on three or four assignments, and Kenya stole their heart for perfect climate, altitude, etc. In Mali, the Dogon Country is their recommendation for taking ones' visitors. They suggest hiring Omar to guide the hike.

My language trainer came later and they both enjoyed talking to him, as they speak good French and some Moore'. Being the seasoned diplomat, Jeanine inquired about my work before Peace Corps, and said Mark's sister was in similar child welfare work. We went outside for some photo shots before walking over to the chef's compound to render a visit. The animals, donkeys and roosters fascinated Mark. (See photos.)

After a couple hours the American Ambassador and her husband left, and Georges and I walked over to CSPS to discuss with the major our upcoming causeries at Zao and Salo. He and Gansonre reviewed my written text, suggested a coupled changes and approved the content.

That evening when Minata and Abdoulaye and I were visiting, I approached the subject of Zanabou, her grandchild, attending school. I expressed that Angela and Cliff want to donate the one mille two hundred fifty francs to send her. Minata agreed to that plan. After she found out about it, Zanabou had a smile across her face that wouldn't quit.

On Sunday the hot weather returned. I was working on my presentation for Malaria in Salo for Wednesday. I took a break by biking to the CSPS to give my niece's name and address for sharing with the nurse stagierres, who want an American nurse to write to. I also wanted to test my biking ability since my accident because the distance to Zao is 15K for Monday. The major and Gansonre were there at the clinic and had found a training tool, a flip chart teaching tool with many health issues, written both in French and Moore' and cute pictures. We need the one on Diarrhea for Zao. It is exciting to find this aid.

As I continued on my trial bike ride, I passed three girls crushing millet, and stopped to chat with them. I took their photo and met some of the men at their two adjacent quartiers too. I went as far as the bridge on the other side of Sala before returning. As I passed another compound the young woman sitting outside invited me to try her cous-cous, and then wanted a photo too. She no doubt had seen me take the earlier picture across the street. As I was doing this, the major stepped out of his house behind where we were visiting. He and some of his family came over to talk. He invited me in to eat to and sauce, a staple meal in the village in BF. I was surprised because before that I had not known where the major lived. We visited and it was very pleasant.

I spent part of the afternoon sorting through my school supplies and dividing them into 5 bags to give out to the various schools when I visit their village.

19-May-08 First Causerie (chat)

The weather was cooler and perfect for the ride to Zao this morning. I put the health pictures together to construct a poster for the talk on hygiene and diarrhea. George arrived on a loner bike, after his bike chain broke again. He assisted with the captions for the pictures. We packed up our things and headed out. An hour later we were in Dana and turned left there to arrive 30 minutes later at Zao, where Gilbert and Celine, nurse in training, were doing vaccinations this morning. The ASCs Patrice and Beli came along, but there was not a crowd of people until the afternoon. Beli acted as the town crier and hollered for people to come to the causerie He went through the market and got a few people by the arms and led them over. We talked about ways to prevent diarrhea, and the audience like the demonstration on ORS (Oral Rehydration Salt) and the flip chart, because the pictures are humerus and easy to understand. Again I spoke in French, Georges in Moore', and Beli translated into Gurounsi. There were about 40 people there, with one woman, Kougo Gene, answering the questions perfectly. Afterwards we passed out biscuits and water, including the ORS to everyone.

The mother and twins I first met in the CSPS clinic were there, and the babies were in very good shape. It was heartwarming for me to see them. They asked to stop by my place sometime for a visit. My good friend Atia also was there and will visit me one day. On the way back we stopped under a Naare tree in full yellow bloom and took a photo. George sang Moore' chants on the return trip and taught me one. The major was outside in front of his house, so we debriefed with him as we passed by.

The next day I worked some more on my Malaria causerie for Wed in Salou. I went over to the clinic for a phone number to call the ASC in Salou and make sure they were set for tomorrow. Karim stopped by the clinic while I was there and then followed me over to the elementary school in Sala to give the school supplies to the headmaster. He said the students were working on the letters to America and they would have something for me by tomorrow. While we were chatting the ICP from Bolo came by and said that he and Batou will be ready next week on Wednesday, a day we are biking 9K into the bush to talk with the people of that village on the premiere health problem for their village as they see it. In the afternoon I worked some more on my Malaria talk, when the weather changed. Suddenly it was raining “cats and dogs”. A lake formed by the side of my house where two paths intersect. When my teacher came, and the rains let up we translated the presentation, and will practice it in the morning before leaving for Salou.

On Wednesday morning we packed up and started up the path behind the CSPS towards Salou. It was rutted somewhat by the rains, and a little tricky to navigate. When we got to village we went directly to the school. They were expecting us and greeted us warmly. I explained the letter exchange to the school director, and requested that he bring me the response in two weeks. Next we went to the chef's compound where he was in “devin” meeting with people about requests/issues. We waited over an hour. When he came to greet us, he said there was a funeral of a young person, and everyone was gone to that. He offered us dolo as we talked with him. The kids were playing on his spacious porch, and one of his young grandsons was particularly engaging and humming. I made a mental note to bring him one of the plastic recorders I have. We rescheduled the causerie for another day.

As we left the village Georges spotted fresh yellow powder called Naare and bought a huge sack full for 800 francs. We tied it on my bike for transport home. He parked it by the hangar outside my house and soon one of the children came in to tell him the sack sprung a leak. Minata helped with another bag and the powder was transferred. Soon he left for home with it.

Thursday morning I got ready to go to Ouaga because I had a much desired dental appointment the next day to get the prep work done for my new crown. Georges wrote a letter to Angela thanking her for sending the Timex watch I requested. He offered respect and peace to her family. He wants me to mail it when I go to town. While I am gone his daughter Reine will make her First Communion. Georges helped me get to the taxi brousse place. It was an eventful ride into the capital. Before we got out of Thyou, we stopped so the chauffeur and helper could replace a bolt on the right front wheel. After we left the junction at Sabou in less than an hour, we stopped for them to put the spare on the right rear. When we got to the next town, they stopped to get the tire repaired or replaced, which took another hour.

I got settled into my room at the Transit House, before going to the PC Bureau. On the way I waited for the post office to open and spoke to the woman in the produce stand in front of PO. She said she saw my accident last month. She said the young boy didn't see me, and as I turned he hit my rear wheel. He may have been trying to pass on my left she said. Her son came by and translated for us.

At the bureau medical clinic, Sylvie said that the muscle color on my backside has returned to normal, but it will still take a while for the lump to go down. I was able to talk with other PC staff, go on the internet, and open my US mail also. That evening everyone was going to dinner at an East Indian restaurant with a volunteer who finished service. I tried some new dishes: Samosa (deep fried triangles filled with mashed potato and meat), “Poulet la Beurre” (chicken in red spicy sauce) and India garlic bread. It was sooo delicious!

At my appointment the dentist worked on my tooth root for 2.5 hours preparing it for the new crown. It took so long because my tooth broke so close to the gum line, and he had to drill way into the root for placing a peg. They also took x rays and impressions.

I was in town where I could do some shopping before returning to TH. I bought some things. I was looking for- a long striped towel for Jodi to carry Cash like the African women do, and eventually there was a crowd of merchants trying to steer me to each of their boutiques for the purchase. It turned into a fiasco really and finally as they were arguing with each other, I hailed a taxi and left, much to their displeasure. When I had located the towel, they were fighting over whose sale it would be.

In the later afternoon the driver took me to pick up my glasses which were made in Spain and were ready. They are nice and I can see better now. The driver was kind enough to take me around to find a soccer ball for the kids in my quartier. It cost 2500 francs. We returned to the bureau where I worked on the internet a long time. Then Christina and I walked back to the TH, ordered pizza and watched the movie “Kite Runner” on Laura's laptop. She said that Manish got 20 highjacked movies when he was in China visiting his parents who live there. After reading the book I can say the movie is less than perfect because so many of his well described feelings and struggles are difficult to translate onto the screen.

Saturday morning Christina and I walked to the PCB and visited Nakeisha who was in med unit. The ambassador and her husband came by the bureau to give me a fresh supply of hummus, because they meant to leave me that on their visit. It was good to see them again. I thanked Mark for sending me pictures of their visit to Sala over the email. They were on their way to a festival of masks in a village for the day.

In the afternoon I was able to talk with Ang and catch up on the news from home. She said their nursery business is in full swing with tomato plants selling fast. Many people are planting their own vegetables this year due to the sagging economy she speculated. Cliff's mother has been in poor health so they are tending to some of her needs. I updated her on my health. I talked with her about the student letters needing translation in both directions.

Sunday morning I got up early to bathe and walk 6-8 blocks to St. Francis Church. The mass was so full I had to stand in the back of church, kind of leaning on a table when I could. Since the students had left for the summer break, the choral director led the congregation in the hymns. After Mass, the Exposition of the Blessed Sacrament began. The people got so excited when the priest processed around the inside and outside of the church, that when he re-entered, a big cheer went up for Jesus.

Then the weather changed and the wind picked up, so that by the time the service was over, it had started sprinkling. I walked about 6 blocks, when it started to pour, and literally I couldn't continue, because the street was flooding and the dirt was rutting and not easy to trasverse. I found a hangar to stand in along with several other people. One of the young men indicated he would walk me home soon, so I hung onto his elbow and we proceeded towards the Transit House four blocks away. I tipped him 500 francs and was so drenched by then and equally happy to be home. After drying off and getting into warm clothes I made a pan of brownies which was a big hit with the volunteers there on this blustery indoors kind of day.

Much later in the afternoon I walked over the the bureau about 10 blocks away and visited Nakeisha, who needed phone units, which I brought her. I picked us up some food at the Blue Marlin. It took me a long time to put my blog and pictures upon the internet. Sally called and has another box ready to send. I asked for more paper for the school kids and Spanish peanuts for me. I crave salt at times, I think from sweating in the humidity and drinking lots of water. Her family will go to Fort Flagler in June, so that is always a good gathering time for them.

On Monday morning I wrote Dr. Claude a letter of interest in the Moringa Workshop, which will be held in OHG mid-June and includes bringing a counterpart from the COGES (health board) group in village. I attached a photo of the Moringa tree I had given my host family when I left in December and it had doubled in height, and was well protected. I also wanted to send Dr. Claude some pictures from the day she visited me in village, and I was doing a presentation in Dana, 10K away, which she attended. (See photos.) And I wanted to email the American Ambassador a thank you as well.

I said Goodbye to Nakeisha and went back to the TH to pack, when Becky arrived as I was leaving. Also Rob was just back from New York seeing his brother and he helped me get a cab to go to the taxi brousse gare for Thyou. Then the wait began! The guys who manage this taxi were all getting haircuts beside the vehicle. We women waited two hours after departure time for the thing to leave. Then we waited at another location for some village commissionaire. Another time the taxi pulled over and all 16 of us got off while they changed a flat tire. By the time I got to Thyou it was 1630, and I needed help getting all my stuff home. Pretty soon Maxime came on his moto and took my luggage home. Then his brother Georges arrived and walked me home. I had forgot we were going to meet at the other station in town. I think I was exhausted from the ride home and spaced it.

27-May-08

On Tuesday morning we practiced the Malaria causerie (talk) before riding there. We always stop by the clinic to talk with the major before talking with the villagers, to make sure he knows what I am up to. The stagierre nurses were there getting ready to return to KDG today. I let the major know I needed a contact number for an ASC in Bolo and Bouyou because we are going there next Wednesday. He supplied that.

At Salou, Karim, Georges and myself went to the chef's house first to give away the recorder to his grandson, Salaif, who was thrilled. Next we went to the big tree at the other side of the marche' and waited. The chef had arranged for a town crier to get the message out again. By 12:45 there were enough people to get underway, about 20 women and 10 men and many kids. We did the Malaria presentation and used the flip that the medical staff in Sala found for us. The people were interested in that visual aid answered the questions posed them in Moore'. I demonstrated the moustiquaire spray. Then we headed back to Sala and got benga at Mimouna's restaurant. By the time I got home in the afternoon Garrett came over to borrow some medical information I have, and he wants to bike 12K into the bush with us tomorrow for the presentations in Bolo and Bouyou. Abdoulaye and his brother Madi came over to visit and play Uno. Madi goes to secondary school in Sabou all school year, and I gave some school supplies. I gave Abdoulaye the soccer ball I had bought him in Ouaga, and boy was he happy. I went to bed at 9pm and think I'm getting a cold.

On Wednesday morning Garrett came, then Karim, then Georges. After a round of coffee we left for the bush. It took an hour to reach Bolo and we took a path that went by the biggest Baobob Tree, so stopped for photos there. Then went to the place close to the school where some functonairres were gathered. I gave the headmaster the sack of school supplies. He wants his students to write letters to America. He inquired about the French reader books, and I told him I was still working on that.

After an intense discussion we left for Bouyou as they were expecting us there at 10am. One woman was waiting for us under the big tree, and she and Amidiou went out to the fields and had the other people come in for the presentation. There were 80 people Garrett counted including children. They were very attentive. I presented in French and Georges presented in Moore'. When we broke into groups I had Garrett take the young men, Karim take the old men and Georges got the big group of women. They each came up with 5 main health issues, we merged the lists and then did the matrix with the people voting on every pair of issues. The principal health problem identified in this way by the villagers was Palu (malaria). I was able to ask my three wrap up questions after which they all clapped. We passed out the biscuits and water. Then they gave us a dozen pintard eggs and a big sack of peanuts. What a treat! They loved having us come clear out to their village to talk with them.

As we came back through Bolo we stopped by the gathering place and discussed with them that I am losing my voice to a cold and we will return next marche' for the presentation in Bolo.

On Thursday I stayed in all morning taking it easy due to my cold. Before noon I was napping too. Then I went to the marche' in Thyou and met a lot of friends. I got pork for a sandwich and we went to have dolo with Georges friend Prosper. We saw Jean Baptiste and Marie and several villagers I know. There was a man who had seen us present in Bouyou and he thanked us again. I think I saw Awa when I fist got there and then the headmaster Edouard who wants me to come to the school again.

When I went for produce, I met Laurentine and gave her half the leaves I bought for sauce. As I returned for my bike, Augustine wanted something from the marche' and I gave him a mango. He was happy. After the marche' we took the route around the Thyou barrage to go home for my lesson.

In the evening I gave out candy to the children, and we were to Amadou's maison for his home made dolo.

Friday was a dark morning. I went to get cell tell units and got home just before the two hour rain started. Minata was dancing in the rain, just what a gardener here does! After a long bath and braiding my hair, I worked on my summary for the COGES, a meeting that usually occurs on the 30th of each month, but won't take place today. When Georges came for my lesson, he helped correct my translation.

Saturday I got up at 5:30 and had my breakfast and asked Minata if I could go the fields with them to plant today. “Mam tuumba waooga.” It was 2K away on the back road, and the kids were already there working. I got a daba to dig a small hole and plant one benga (bean) and 12 ki (millet) in each, then cover it up. We worked until mid-morning when we had a meal of to and Gumbo sauce. I explained to Minata's kids that in America when we eat outside it is called a picnic, which we were having right then. They giggled, thinking that was really funny. (See photos.)

31-03-08 Week of Moore-IST

We are at Koudougou this week with the goal of learning more about Moore', Robert and I have JZ for our teacher at the Notre Dame Petite Seminaire. We are in one of the buildings up the hill which has 5-6 units. We began by exchanging some ideas on what to learn. We will start with some pronouns, greetings and numbers. We have both individual and group classes, plus personal study time. At my class today JZ and I practiced numbers and money. Then we talked about the special Mass his extended family had on Sunday and how there was a number of relatives at his mother's house now. So he was glad for the quiet of the seminaire.

In the morning I rode up to the main road and got an omelette sandwich. While I waited for it, a man played his guitar for me. He has a house full of instruments. For lunch Rob and I were in town near the poste, I showed him where the good pork place was and we got enough for sandwiches. Rob was having his “Jour de la Femme” material made into a shirt and pants near there. I was paying for a necklace the shopkeepers let me take earlier this month on credit. Three guys in that boutique were playing the drums, quite beautifully. My friend Achille came to visit me in the evening. We talked and looked at my recent pictures. It was a good visit.

01-04-08 April Fool's Day

This day was much the same classwise. I did tenses of Moore' verbs, which is pretty straight forward, not conjugated like French. At noon I went to the internet to respond to the new PC director of BF with an email regarding senior volunteers. I sent him some attachments, as I had already addressed some issues for seniors in my appeal process before coming to the PC.

Becky texted me an April Fool's msg saying she was leaving PC, which I showed to Rob, who then did the same thing to lots of volunteers and the new director. Dr. Claude called our teacher to see if Rob was OK. Manish checked in with Rob from the airport in Ouaga on his way to China. The CD told Rob that he had him going too. Some of the female volunteers didn't put it that kindly.

After our formal class, Rob and I discussed having dinner at the Conference Center. I invited Achille who met us there. We ordered their delicious salads and shared a riz gras with arachide sauce. After a relaxing meal we went to the internet before going back to the seminaire.

The next morning JZ taught Rob and I the six parts to accomplein and inaccomplein verb tenses. It was a long lesson. JZ had us write out exercises practicing with each example he gave.

When break came and the day was already hot (this is April after all) we decided to grab a sandwich and head for the outdoor pool at the Palmquiste. We read, ate and swam for several hours relaxing in this pleasant environment. (See pictures.) Then some inspectors came to check the pool, and questioned me about my tank top and shorts. They said this would be an exception, bear in mind we were the only guests there. At 2pm they closed the pool because the University had it reserved for a class.

JZ taught me numbers 50,000 francs and above. We went over everyday language and I practiced making up sentences. He said our medical terms we want to learn will happen on Friday as he has an appointment Thursday. He wants my French/Moore teacher to text him for a meeting time to discuss my learning style, etc. I had told him that Georges was coming to KDG for business.

The younger volunteers were going to dinner, but I passed on that as I had already spent one mille going swimming and Achille was coming over to look at my blog #7 so we were having another avocado sandwich together. He said that was his only meal that day, so I was glad to provide that. We went to the internet to upload pictures for Costco to print for me.

On Thursday morning I took my laundry up behind the seminaire office to have it done. After breakfast and studying, I found Melissa's place and left a note on the door. The younger volunteers were in town at the other pool (another hot day in BF). I rode by the FasoTex Industry on my way home. It is a gigantic cotton textile mill in KDG.

When I returned to the office of the seminaire, I found some cards to buy and left there for my room, when Georges arrived from Thyou pedaling to KDG in 3 hrs time. We went back to where JZ was teaching us, and he and Georges met about my language learning. I suddenly had an urge to go for water. I lingered a while.

When I came back, we texted Achille and said we were coming to his work. We had planned to go visit the Municipal grave site of Georges' baby son. First we went by Laurentine's mother's place to meet up with her brother named Georges also, as he would accompany us there. We all four rode our bikes to the Municipal Cemetery and there on the corner of the lot was a tiny mound of dirt where the grave site of Kiemtore' Jean Marc was marked by a beautiful sign my friend Achille had inscribed for them. I cried when I saw it, and couldn't keep it inside any longer. It was so difficult to see that. But as the two guys hugged and hushed me, Georges said “God gives and He takes and Jean Marc is with God.” (See pictures.)

When we returned to the relatives home, Laurentine's mother was stripping the aubergine plant stems. Georges and Achille peeled one and we all took turns eating it. It did taste good. The family served us to' (main grain in diet) and sauce. Soon we headed back to the seminaire to my next Moore' lesson. After it was over we three hung out for a while, trying out my laptop and my MP3 player. Before they left, as my fatigue was starting to show, Georges talked again about his baby's death and he indicated that Jean Mark had a blood transfusion hours before he died. They talked to the head of the unit about that. It is an unanswered question it seems.

04-04-08

One class this Friday morning on Moore' medical terms! JZ showed us how to phrase a community introduction in Moore', explaining our role, etc. Rob and I both think we will use that. As we ended our time together JZ said “You have my number, please call with questions.”

In the next hour I went up the hill for omelette sandwiches for Rob, Georges and I. We discussed the Close Of Service party in Ouaga that Rob was going to leave at noon for. He modeled his clothes the tailor in KDG made for him out of the Jour de Femme material he and I bought in Ouaga last time. They were handsome outfits. (See photos.) JZ came over to say goodbye.

I made a trip to the internet chafe, and my friend, Allasane watched me do computer work for a while. That afternoon I walked around the wonderful marche' in the center of Koudougou. At the end of his workday, I met Achille for a coke and we both waited near his work at the Gare(bus station) for Becky to arrive on the bus from Ouaga for a weekend visit. Achille and two buddies from his work helped when she arrived at 6:45pm dusk to get us all through town and down the hill to the seminaire where Becky got settled in a room. Achille and I went up to town to get some dinner and go to the internet.

On Saturday morning Becky and I ate in the relaxing mission dining room. We caught up on life in our respective villages. We pedaled to the post office to get money and used the internet there. After a couple hours of that I showed Becky around the big marche' at KDG, which she loved. We had fun bartering for fabric at one boutique. We both had the tailor hem a headscarf for us and I found christian fabric for Sally there and Becky got a shirt. We were both happy. We found the arachide woman and the artisan display where we got peanut butter and a leather jewelry case. In our browsing we happened upon the cutest little boy who was drinking water from a clear sachet and it was squirting all over his face. I took a picture of Aziz doing this.

We spent more time at the internet cafe, before going to the Conference Center for dinner and happy hour. We each got a salad and shared a riz gras. When Achille finished work he joined us and we talked about my departing for village in the morning. He will come on his brother's moto to help us because of all those boxes I have to take.

Sunday morning the boys were back at the petite seminaire after a break and were singing in church. Their voices are something to behold. Achille and I went to Mass, and Becky waited for us on her porch all the while listening to the heavenly chanting. Because the mass went long, we had to scurry to the transport station. Achille motoed ahead and Becky (25 yrs my junior) and I pedaled fast, which I later paid for with a pulled muscle above my left knee. Becky dashed over to buy us all an omelette sandwich as Achille was loading my stuff on the taxi brousse. I got aboard too. Becky handed me a sandwich through the window nearly as we pulled away. I waved goodbye to my two friends. (See photo.)

By the time we got to Sabou, I knew my leg was hurting a lot. I sat in the front of the next taxi brousse for the 15 K to Sala. Somehow they knew I would be coming, because the bigger kids were there to meet me and carried all my boxes, luggage, and walked my bike up the hill to my home. The advise of the PCMO was to wrap my leg in ace bandage, take extra Ibuprofen, and no biking for a week. That worked well.

I talked to Chris on the phone that evening to thank him for the fans he sent in time for the April heat. We also talked about the Trader Joe's foil dinner pkgs, which are perfect over rice, pasta, etc. for one person. He sent tons of batteries to run the fans and other things. I shouldn't run out for a long time. After being gone three weeks, my house was covered in a film of red dust from the winds.

07-04-08 Monday-(Tene)

Elevating my leg overnight made it possible for me to walk without pain. I went outside to greet everyone. Issaka introduced me to his brother (husband to Minata and father of her children) Ousmane who had come from Cote d' Ivoire while I was gone. Ousmane speaks a tribal language from there and Moore', but no French. It was comforting to be home and see all my neighbors again. I would have to rest a lot this week, so my pulled muscle will heal properly.

Lorraine called to tell me about their cruise around Mexico, Panama and Columbia ending in Miami. They had a great time. Every time I really need to talk to her, she calls. We talked a long time.

When my teacher came for my lesson, he brought me 4 canaries (vases) from Kokologo where his family function was last weekend. He heard me talk about wanting some to grow flowers in on my veranda. After studying awhile, we talked about scheduling some presentations at Salo, Dana and the COGES meeting. Minata brought over benga and millet for us to eat before Georges left for home. The neighbor kids sat on my porch with me and they told me Moore' words for the animals we all know.

Tuesday- (Talaato)

There were a lot of people outside today and workers came to resurface the outside of our house. It was an interesting process. Fine red sand was put through a screen, then mustard colored powder was mixed with that and finally a white cement powder was added and mixed together carefully with water. The workers used a hand-held sprayer that spun the mixture out when one turned the handle. I noticed someone had nailed together a new ladder for this work. All day the workers labored, completing three sides of the house.

My friend Awa from Villa came by for a visit. We practiced my Moore' expressions. I made us pork sandwiches, but she did not eat the pork (she is probably Muslim). She likes to look at my family pictures and I had some new ones of Tabor and his mother and father. She wanted Chris' phone number for an American contact, but I told her I would have to get his permission.

Georges and his brother came on Maxime's moto with things from the marche' that I needed. We had a lesson (numbers, greetings, conjugations and reading) outside today as the workers were busy on the house. When Maxime returned to pick up Georges I asked him about the sermon he was working on last time I talked with him, and he said it went well. He is on a short break from seminary after all the work of Easter. He is returning now to Fara, where he lives and studies.

Wednesday-(Arba)

By 8am the workers were painting the fourth exterior wall in the back of our house, then they snapped a line to put a 1' border of black paint on the bottom and top. Next Issaka made plywood symbols used as stencils to adorn the top of the walls with a moon, stars, and an airplane. He said it was the plane that brought me here from America. The main painter, Issa was awesome and agile. (See photos.) Minata made the workers Riz Gras for lunch. I gave everyone a power bar.

When Garrett stopped by for a visit we watched a whirlwind go by the house. Scarey! I had my language class outside again because of the painting project. Minata brought over to' and sauce for us, and we played cards with Abdulaye until dark. We love playing Uno together.

Thursday-Lamusa

I decided my pulled muscle was enough better that I could walk to CSPS today and resume some activities. When I got to the accoucheuse's house, Pierette was sitting on the porch with two teachers from Sala Elementary bidding her goodbye, because she had taken a new job as midwife at the CSPS in Koudougou. There is a new accoucheuse coming to Sala soon. I asked her about my teaching the new mothers and she said Monday and Thursday are when it can happen every week.

After greeting the pharmacist Adama, I found Gansonre and Gilbert, both seemed very happy to see me. They each were working with a infirmier stagierre (nurse in training). There were 5 women there with babies to weigh today. I got to do one for Gilbert.

I walked down by the road to the restaurant, where Ramata gave me an igname (potato) to eat. I took pictures of Ramata and her six kids. Everyone works in the family business. (See photo.)

The temp is 105 degrees today, so an afternoon repose was welcome. So were several bucket rinses. I had my regular language class with dialogue, greetings, vocabulary and translation of Moore' into French. I read from the two Moore' readers too. I asked Georges if we could have my lesson tomorrow under a tree at the market as I would be walking there. We decided the interruptions would be difficult there, so we compromised on a tree at the barrage instead. That night I read about the Boston Strangler in a novel called “A Death on Belmont”. Interesting!

Friday- Arziima

On this day I wanted to visit the headmaster at Sala Elementary, so I got together some of the school supplies my American friends have been sending and walked to the school. I also took the email from Lindsay's teacher inviting correspondence between the two groups of students, American and African. Edward was in his classroom with another teacher and we spent some time talking about this request. I told him I would send the letters to America and that I was going to Ouaga the end of April, when I could mail them. Everyone seems excited about the idea.

On my way home I stopped in a quartier across from the school, Ouedraogo Gamsin. His younger brother is the gentleman who talked with me in Moore' last week at the boutique. Two young men who spoke both French and English also spoke with me. Issaka asked for a soccer ball, which I will get in Ouaga when I go. Soccer (football) is the main sport in Africa.

As I passed by the CSPS the major was walking to his car and greeted me warmly and we talked about my three weeks of training. Then he introduced me to the new stagierres, Madeleine and Celine. I observed a couple patients being treated for Palu before going home to rest. The major offered me a ride as far as the mosque on my way to marche' at noon.

I was happy to be back at the marche' because it is central to life in Burkina and to me now. I visited with the boutiquierre, Adama for awhile before going behind his block to the marche'. Next I found Jean Baptiste, who made me a small sachet of pork with pima. I bought bread. I hung out with Marie at the church's hangar for some time. Presently Georges and Laurentine showed up and she and I went to get her shoes repaired. When we came back Georges was surrounded by friends. We sat and visited over dolo.

When it was lesson time, George rode me behind on his bike a short ways. We found a big old tree to sit under. School children enroute home stood and watched our lesson. Pretty soon it was getting dark and Georges insisted on walking me home. Minata came over to visit. I told Georges I would see him at Sunday Mass.

Saturday-Siibri

Today the weather feels heavy, a little wind that blows hot. The morning temp is 90. By evening that would increase to 108! hottest day yet. A man hired to paint the trim on all the metal leuvres was outside working and the fumes made it intolerable inside. So I sat outside a fair amount, visiting with Abdulaye's father, Ousmane. During the afternoon Gerard (Minata's brother and my carpenter) came by with my padded footstool and also to hang some things for me. He put a clothesline up in my bedroom. That night I pulled out my tent for the first time since Fall.

Sunday-Hato

This would be the first time on my bike, so when Zanabou and I rode to church we went early and slow. Jean Baptiste led the services and a girl led the choir. I later learned that Georges had laryngitis and couldn't. The service was long, and several gentlemen got up to speak about fund drive for a new building at the conclusion. Claude found me and took me to his mother, who was serving dolo near the church office under a hangar. Zanabou seems to like the church services. On the way home we went to the boutique in Thyou and got biscuits and a bigger mat for sleeping on the porch. It is still very hot, morning temp 90 and by afternoon 109. I walked over to the chef's quartier and gave him tea from Portland and Vitamin C drink packets. He in turn gave me pintard eggs! He is very pleasant.

After repose I decided to find COGES people who live past the school. I asked at the pump by the school, and a woman pointed East. Later on that path I asked a woman on a cart and she said “keep going”. I came to a quartier and a woman told me Mocktar lives there alright, but he went to Thyou today. A man I have seen often in and around Sala took me to the next compound where Saidou the COGES president lives. Saidou was there and sitting outside. Luckily two young men were also present who spoke French and some English. They helped me tell Saidou about my planned presentations in Salo and Dana. I invited a COGES member to come along. It proved a successful venture. When I go ahead and try something I'm a little anxious about, it often turns out this way.

That night my neighbor girls slept on my porch on the new mat, while I slept in my tent. Fun!

Continued...

14-04-08

Stephanie S. arrived on transport from Gao (30K away) before 8am to visit for a day. When I got ready we went to CSPS to greet the staff. Gansonre invited us to observe a spinal tap procedure. I held the baby's head while Gilbert held her limbs. The fluid came out clear so no meningitis. They ruled that out before treating her for malaria. Before we left the room though, the nurse said that a baby just died in the main room where all the beds are. We saw the baby on the bed with the mother as Gansonre checked for vital signs. Then he covered her head with the pagne she was wrapped in. For me it was surreal as no one was crying. Gansonre was out of the room a few minutes, came back, wrapped the baby and carried it to a back room with the parents behind him. A short time passed and they returned to the main room. I touched the mother on her shoulder as I left CSPS. I can't imagine the loss!

Stephanie and I readied for a trip to the Thyou marche'. We left our bikes out in front of the boutique in Thyou where I always leave mine, and Augustine watches it for me. We went to the produce section and bought local bread, lettuce and mangoes, then found the lady that makes a fresh salad for your lunch. We enjoyed it under an awning nearby to sit in some shade while we ate. Next we found a merchant who sells pagnes so Stephanie could buy a couple, and I found a flowing curtain for my douche entrance. Marie was our guide, who also took us back to the church hangar for dolo before we biked back home. We took my new mat out under a grove of trees and rested and talked. It was too hot in my house.

At lesson time, Georges and I sat behind my house in the shade and practiced Moore', then my next presentation. We fixed the flip charts too. At dinner time Stephanie made Sangria with fresh fruit and I made a tuna salad. We sat on the porch to eat, and Minata came over to visit Steph about how much she misses Julie, the past volunteer, who lived in this house. Then we fixed our beds for the night, both sleeping on the porch under the stars. This happened to be the night the video place was having a dance which lasted until 3 in the morning, and we fell asleep despite the loud music from there.

15-04-08

Stephanie wanted to be on the road early before the sun got up very high, before 6. I made her a sandwich to go, and Minata came over to say goodbye. I got my things together to leave at 7:30am for Salo when Georges came. As we headed up the path to Salo we were joined by a young COGES member Ouedraogo Karim, who speaks both French and Moore'. The 8K trip is 45 minutes top. When we arrived there we went directly to the school. All the classes were doing a gymnastics exam, and Daniel one of the teachers came over and asked if we could come back later to which we agreed. We cruised through the marche' and went onto the village chef's compound to let him know what our agenda was. Minata had sent a gift of lettuce for the chef's wife and we delivered that. This very friendly chef was teasing and asked to marry me. I said “Oh no, once was enough for me!” All the people watching laughed.

Back at the marche' we sat under a big tree while one man, the town crier, went off recruiting an audience for us. We took the interlude as an opportunity to return to the school to give the staff the school supplies and two contact names from Harmony Elementary at home. Within 20 minutes we returned to the big tree where enough people were present that we began our presentation to 35 women and about 15 men. Again I presented in French and Georges translated into Moore'. Karim took the men's group and Georges took the women's group as they decided their five top health issues. We sifted through those results to come up with the common ones. When we paired them against each other for the people to vote, the discussions became lively. It was clear that Palu (malaria)was going to be the principal maladie, but for a long time they debated tension vs meningitis, so we gave each a standing. One older woman was complaining about her legs, and I took her hand and invited her to join me as I finished asking the three questions and giving a conclusion That worked well as she still garnered some attention. Counting time for refreshments we finished in 1h 30m. They seemed genuinely appreciative. We wanted to eat but the food in the marche' was finished. We went home and hung out.

That evening as I sat on the front porch I saw fires in the distance, Abdoulaye told me that they were from the villagers harvesting sugar from trees by boring holes in the trunk. They were very high up in the tree to do this, as the sparks were falling to the ground 20-30 plus feet up. I would like to see how they get the sugar down from there. There are some cultural traditions that preclude my getting that close I gather.

The next day I took it easy between two days of biking to petite villages. Plus the weather was changing. When I went to Thyou to get local bread it probably rained ten drops on me. I spent time visiting my neighbors down by the road. I read in the afternoon. And by evening the clouds gathered in the sky.

17-04-08

After I was up a while Issaka brought over Harouna, a guy who plans to take pagnes and briefcases to America next year to merchandise at small shops there. We talked about that possibility.

On the way to Dana I passed our school at Sala where a lot of excitement was in the air. There was a game of soccer going on and everyone was into it. I soon learned in Dana 10K away that their school was the competition for the Sala students, so my visit to their school would have to wait.

I went to the marche' where the vaccinations were being given by Philippe and Madeline. They said Gansonre was in Dayolo. I also conversed with the two ASCs, Bitiou and Babou there. Soon the nurse packed up to go back to Sala, saying the vaccinations were done. No sooner had they left than more women came. About an hour went by when Gansonre stopped there on his return trip. He vaccinated a number of children.

I found pork sandwich at the marche' with pima, it was an excellent lunch. We talked about next Wednesday when I will return for presentation. The woman serving ignames at her hangar told me excitedly that she was at Salo last week when we presented there. Dr. Claude called and said she will come for site visit next Wed and watch the presentation. I was only a short distance down the road home when the major stopped and picked me up in his car. That is always a welcome treat. I told him we would come over tomorrow and share our experience from presenting in Salo.

18-04-08

I went to the clinic this morning and discovered they were doing vaccinations under the tree in front with both RNs, Gansonre and Philippe, also Madeline. There were 20 women at one point sitting on the logs with babies waiting their turn. (See photo.) Three of them were my neighbors in my courtyard. The major arrived at clinic and greeted everyone. I scheduled a time to talk about Salo with him.

I ate at the restaurant by the road, rice with tomato sauce. When I got home in the afternoon the morning temp which was 86 degrees was up to 108. The humidity was up too. I had a bucket bath and a nap in that order. When my language teacher came, we pedaled to the clinic to discuss our Salo presentation experience with the major. We shared the success of that petite village sensibilization and also discussed the one we will do next Wednesday at Dana when Dr. Claude comes for observation and site visit. He agreed to inform Karim and Gansonre about this. We came back home for my language lesson, which consisted of the dialog, now memorized in French and working on Moore'. I had work on “etre” (to be) and pronouns, a word list and then translating French into Moore'.

Sampoko brought us “Ne pas pret dolo” and Georges really laughed about my expression.

Sally called and we spoke for an hour about things already sent, and things to send, about the cost of mail, the fabric here, the religious devotion of Burkinabe' and of course the weather. She has been able to get into my blog and sometimes the pictures. In every box she sends a homemade baby quilt.

We sat on the porch and played Uno with Abdoulaye until 8:30pm. After that I set up my tent there. We watched the activity down by the road where the men were boring into a big old tree for sugar. We could see sparks flying toward the ground from 40-50 ft up the trunk. With my binoculars I could see the process a little better. About 10pm the winds started up, but even that did not deter the honey harvesters. By midnight the wind was at full gale and I took my tent inside.

The night was one of wind and dust blowing throughout. The temp the next morning was around 86 degrees. I got ready to go to Bolo 13 K in the bush with my neighbor boy as my guide. We stopped by the garden next to the barrage, but Minata had been there and was gone, so I will stop on the way back for lettuce. We biked to the school at Bolo first and passed a huge beautiful Baobob Tree right before the school. There were three classrooms in the school with three teachers each teaching two levels. One teacher requested French primers, when I asked what they need. They all were very pleased with the school supplies I brought them thanks to my support network back in America.

Abdoulaye and I went back to the marche' in Bolo and sat under a hangar, waiting for the major to arrive from a farther village, Bouyou. He came at 11am and so did the women and babies. The nurse Celine gave all the shots while the major wrote medical notes. One of the moms came with twins, but they ran out of the newborn shots, so she will have to return next month for them. The ASC Babou was there and agreed to help with my presentation next month at the first marche'. When vaccinations were done the major and nurse stagierre tried to leave for Sala but they had a flat tire on the moto.

Abdoulaye and I left for home. We got close to the garden and went there to get the lettuce. When we returned to the path, there sat the major and Celine with the same tire flat again (encore). He was carrying a big piler (grinder) on the back of his moto too. They had called Gansonre for help. We pedaled on home. When I rested a bit, I went out back where there was a game of football (soccer) going on. See photos.

20-04-08

This Sunday morning I got ready to go to church with my neighbor girl Zanabou. The service was long, the chant was excellent and led by Georges. The drummers were very good. We stopped for bread on the way to church and stopped at the marche' on the way back. By then we were visiting with Georges' family at the marche'. Zanabou and the girls went off to buy my tomatoes and onions, while we talked with others, Eduard, who sings at church, and Marie and Bazile and made a date for Uno and dinner on May 4. But today I was having Georges, Laurentine, and the girls, Carmel and Reine, over to dinner.

Georges gave his family his bike to use and we set out for home on the bikes. We settled in for the afternoon, as we looked through some pictures. Then I gave the girls some things to play with. Laurentine and I prepared the lettuce for a big salad, and the French bread to fry with garlic. We fried one pan when I ran out of propane gas. I contacted the major, who sent his son to Sabou, but when Abdoulaye arrived there, they were out too. So we would have to go to Plan B, which was make a meal out of the salad and garlic bread. We prepared the bisap (fruit drink) too. I took the rest of the bread over for Zanabou to prepare over the open fire.

We started a game of Uno with Garrett, Abdoulaye, my neighbor boy, Laurentine and myself. Pretty soon Georges arrived and took over someone's hand. We all had fun teasing Georges.

We had dinner around 6pm and played games until after dark. A good time was had by all. The day started at 90 degrees and ended at 106. I slept on the porch again.

21-04-08 Monday

I needed cell tell units to make phone calls and they were out in Sala so I rode towards Thyou to buy some. I rode back around the barrage at Thyou, took a different path and in 15 minutes was on a route to Salo. I started asking people and discovered my mistake. The path branches off and leads back to the CSPS in Sala so I stopped there. Already all five of the beds were filled with patients with malaria, except one child was on a clear drip, which is not for that. I went to the maternite' and met a mother with her new baby and both grandmothers were there. They wanted to talk to me.

At noon I walked over to the restaurant where Karim had benga (beans) the other day and ordered some. The woman proprietor asked if I knew her. She is Gansonre's wife, Mimouna. Out of her environment and home, I didn't recognize who this jovial woman was. By the time I got home after lunch it was already hot. I noticed I was getting a heat rash on my mid drift. That called for another bucket bath to cool down. Today started out at 90 and by afternoon reached 110 degrees.

We had my lesson under the trees in a little grove a few hundred yards from my house. I set up my tent early with Abdoulaye's help. His mom returned from her visit to Bouyou, where she chanted for a funeral. She had no voice left now.

22-04-08 Tues

I went to the cafe' stand next to the boutique in Sala for my morning coffee. When I got to the clinic, Gansonre said no one got any sleep last night because 3 babies were born. This morning he was seeing patients at the clinic with Madeline. There were 4-5 people on IV drips. I requested Gansonre to get word to Karim about the presentation at Dana on Wednesday.

At the maternite' I met the three babies and their mothers. (See photos). Three grandmothers were there too, so I took their picture. I told them I was a grandma too. When I later returned there to get the names of everyone, the fathers were there then, so I took more pictures. The babies have no names yet. That comes with baptism as I understand it.

When we had my lesson in the afternoon, Georges had prepared a new dialog about cultivating. We practiced it and my presentation for tomorrow. We went inside to make our flip charts for tomorrow. Now we were ready to leave early in the morning. I fell asleep listening to Willie Nelson on my MP3 player.

23-04-08 Wednesday

I prepared early today for both the Dana presentation and Dr. Claude's home site visit. I had quite a few things to pack, considering I would go to the school first to introduce myself and donate some supplies for the students. We three, Karim,COGES board member, Georges, my language teacher, and I joined together at the health clinic. We biked to Dana which took an hour, 10K straight south from Sala. We went to the Dana school first and met the headmaster and two teachers. We chatted a bit and then toured the classrooms, each holding two levels of students. Dr. Claude found us there and joined in greeting the students.

We next went to the marche' area where Bitiou and Babou, ASCs were waiting to help us put on the presentation. We looked for a place that would serve our needs and people could gather. We chose the backside of the marche'. We asked the ASCs for table and benches. When they came and the wind was bad, the people solved that problem by tying the table in the tree on its' end to display our flip charts. Then we waited a long time for people to arrive. The conseiller for Dana, Nebie Zila came about this time and translated into Gourounsi for the people, after Georges translated my French into Moore. (See photos.)

We began our presentation at 11:20am. During my introductions I recognized Dr. Claude Millogo from Ouaga, and the people clapped to have such an important person at their village. I acknowledged my helpers too. Then invited the villagers of Dana to help identify their main health issue, so we could together learn more about it and how to respond to it. In order to do this exercise the crowd broke out into two groups, and each one produced a list of the main health issues. We meshed the two lists and had 5 issues to work with. Using the matrix system we had them compare every two maladies and decide the more important one. When the process was completed it showed that “Maladie de L'eau” was the main issue for Dana. We counted over 60 people present for the event. (See photos.) It lasted over an hour and I gave a conclusion statement ending with “Nn Le Le Le”, and Barka Barka, thank you in Gourounsi and Moore'. The people loved that!

We all returned to Sala to meet informally with Major El Hadj. The medical staff were sitting outside. Dr. Claude told me later the major said they were lucky to have me and I have established a presence in this health district. After that Michelle the driver brought us to my house where Dr. Claude and I talked about my role here in village doing sensibilizations. She commented that the people who help me can tell the villagers reaction to what is presented and in turn the helpers are learning health from me. So that it is mutually beneficial. She agreed with my use of the ASCs and Conseillers in satellite villages and also keeping the COGES (health board) informed of all my activities. I appreciated her suggestion to use the “La Sante' Avant Tout” (health for all) book to train the school children, as they seem very open to this. She also thought regular scheduled meetings with the major would help me. It was a good site visit.

Soon there was a huge dust storm so I quickly closed the door and all the windows. For an hour or more the rain fell heavy and fast. I could hear the children outside playing in the rain and laughing as they ran around. I thought when it cleared that it was safe to sleep outside but at 3am another storm came and I went inside for cover.

24-04-08

Around 10 I went to maternite' where they were weighing babies, and I got to do two of them. My language teacher found me there as we had planned a morning lesson. About the time we started studying Zanabou came home from the pump, saying that she had been sent home by the new nurse because he didn't recognize her as being from this village. We decided to bike over to the well by the CSPS to talk with the nurse and clear up any misunderstanding. We did talk with the two student nurses and then the nurse came there and said, no problem! After that Zanabou returned there with an adult, Aminata and had no trouble getting me water.

I asked Georges to write some notes about our presentation at Dana yesterday, which he did. We finished my lesson of dialog and some translating exercises before Georges had to leave for a meeting with his choral group, who were recognizing his birthday yesterday.

On Friday I had arranged to go to Thyou to observe Garrett teaching his classes, Mathematics and English. Each class had 70-80 teenage students in them. He introduced me to his students and asked them if any of them had seen me around Sala, and several raised their hands. He was doing variables with his math students and for some problems he demonstrated by running, speeding up and slowing down. He asked them “Is this consistent?” And they laughed. (See photos.) He uses humor well.

After that class we walked across the playground to the other building and the English class, where 75 students were waiting. Again he introduced me and one young man asked him if I was his wife. He said, “No, she is not my wife!” to which everyone laughed wildly, given the obvious age difference. When he wrote the vocabulary on the board and asked them to translate the words, often he demonstrated it, i.e. boxing, hiding, etc. (See photos.) It was so fun to watch him teach, and I always hear in the community what a good teacher Mr. Emsley is. They are lucky to have a teacher who mixes things up for them. He moves right along and one can tell he has prepared for his classes.

I searched for and found Madame Kiemte's house in Thyou before I left there that morning. I wanted to pay a visit to my friend, whom I had met on the taxi brousse on my last ride up to Ouaga. Alas she was not home. I stopped by the clinic, which was not busy. I offered Gansonre my MP3 player while I am gone to Ouaga this weekend and he was happy about hearing my music. I went home to get it and some school supplies to drop off at Sala Elementary. The headmaster had written the American teacher Ms. Stolberg a letter in French, so I will have my teacher help me translate it into English so I can mail it this weekend. We had my last lesson that afternoon and I paid my tutor 30 mille for April. He offered to bring a rubber strap to tie my luggage on my bike so I can get to the Shell station in the morning to catch the taxi brousse to Ouaga.

26-04-08 A day I won't forget!

While we waited for the taxi brousse to arrive, a man was there selling herbs for ailments. Georges bought remedies for headaches, teeth problems for his father, and stomach problems for his mother. The other unusual thing was that a log had fallen off a camion as it passed us on the way to the station. Georges took it home on his bike that morning as we left for Ouaga. Two hours later I was in Ouaga, getting a taxi to the transit house, dropped off my stuff and headed to the PC bureau. I wanted to stop by the post office/bank to get money, so I turned right on the main road and then left into the poste. I had looked over my left shoulder and not seeing anyone close I turned, but SMACK! I got hit from behind by a kid on a moto. I promptly landed on my backside on the street. My helmet saved me from a skull fracture I'm sure. But my derrière, OUCH! I spent the next week in the medical unit at the PC bureau, and was sent to radiology for x rays, which showed no fractures in my spine. So I was lucky in that way. Cold packs and pain medication for a week, then back to village and more rest for another two weeks. Linda was in the med unit this week too and together we had lots of company: Rob, Laurie, Lindsey, Nakeisha, Becky, Garrett, Audrey, Stephanie, and Aicha, Amade's niece, who teaches language in Ouaga at a Lycee. Before I left for home on May 5, I got a new bike helmet from the bureau staff. Unfortunately I broke a tooth that day before leaving Ouaga and had an emergency dental appt. So I will be back in two weeks for a new crown.

01-03-08

I hear the women “pile the millet”, rhythmic sounds as two and three pound together this morning. Before going to the clinic I visit them under the old tree where they've done this activity forever. There are new faces, visitors, and all are getting ready for the marriage fete (feast) I'm sure. (See pictures.)

Lots of people come into CSPS and I recognize Beli from Zao, who helped bring in a young woman, who delivered twin boys two weeks ago. She is sick and on an IV line and gramma has the twins, who are extremely tiny and fragile looking. They have a tiny cry. When the mother tries to nurse them, she has no milk. I encourage her to drink water, as much as she can. The babies have trouble latching onto her nipples. I will go home, find my La Leche book and share some info with them somehow. They only speak Moore'.

The little boy and mother who were here yesterday are back. He is on another drip. He gives me a slight smile, I think he remembers me and the ball and jacks I gave him. When I talk to the major this morning, we discuss some questions I have about the village site locater map which I have to fill out for PC. He also answers some questions about the COGES and refers me to Gansonre for info on the Microplan and statistics for Sala. I also discuss with the major my desire to do a questionnaire or presentation in some villages regarding the main health problems they are having.

When I return from my home, I give the twins' mother, Nebia, Atia, the quilt for her twin (jumeau) boys that aunt Sal made last Fall. She is happy as I tell her mother that my friend in America made it for a new African baby. (See pictures). I show Atia the pictures in the LLL book, then copy them by hand and write the words under each one in French, and Beli says he will find someone to translate them into Moore' for her. The pictures describe how to position the babies, and how to encourage suckling. I bring her an orange drink and Beli encourages her to drink lots of water. I discuss with the RNs and the trainees that the babies need to eat every two hours around the clock to survive. I ask them about the meds she is on and if they restrict her milk production. I spend time with them as we bridge the communication gap.

I am home studying for my upcoming work with the villagers, when I hear lots of bustling next door. Sikinata is pounding arachide (peanuts) and Minata flips the powder in a tray to get rid of any peanut skins. Zanabou is making tô (long o) which is a staple in the Burkinabe' diet. They are preparing food for the marriage feast this weekend. I go over and watch the men set up the lights and loudspeaker for the dance tonight. Some women are filling a big plastic tarp with ground millet to dry on my porch. No bride and groom yet. I gather he is coming home from Cote D'Ivoire to get married.

That evening I bring my chair over to watch the dancing which begins after dark. They watch me too. The teen girls from across the village come up and greet me. There are dozens and dozens of youth gyrating to the music. Everyone in village knows there will be a wedding tomorrow and they can come to any of the festivities. My two nurse trainee friends show up and ask where I live, so I show them my place. They point out on my big BF map on the wall the villages near Koudougou they each come from. After socializing for awhile, I invite them to the Mass at the Thyou barrage in the morning, a decent walk down a path from my place. The kids keep dancing through the night, laughing and copying the moves from the more experienced ones. I turn in at 11, but the music goes on until 3am.

02-03-08 “Pelerinage au Barrage”

Activities are starting outside in my quartier early this day because of the wedding. The chef comes over to our compound, so I quickly grab my pagne to wrap around my shorts, and go outside to greet him and the two gentlemen with him. About that time Minata takes my hand and escorts me into Salam's quartier to see the women gathered in a hut. They have two huge mesh sacks filled with cooking ware for the new bride. The young woman is sitting in this space, sequestered until her wedding. While we are nearby her home, we stop and greet the premiere femme of the compound, Kietomougo. The women of my two quartiers continue preparing food all day.

Both Zanobou and Abdoulaye are going to the pilgrimage with me this morning. It is a huge event, and people from miles around attend. Lots of them go to the Catholic Church in Thyou and walk the distance to the barrage, about 1.5 K away. But we are walking on a path from the other direction and will be there in time to see the people arrive there who make the pilgrimage. Already when we get to the dike road, we see the tent set up for Mass on the west side of the barrage under the trees. We find a good location on the south side of the congregation area to put our bench, which Zanabou carried from home on her head for us to sit on during the service. Others are there waiting too.

We can hear the drumming as the people coming get nearer, and suddenly they are coming en masse across the field and through the trees. Georges led the chanters to the barrage. As they all get settled, the 5 priests are getting ready too. The opening prayer and singing by the youth choir from Sabou is very good. Georges led the Thyou choir and the congregation through much of the other singing. (See picture.) There were drums and organ music, and the sound system had a few squeaks too. The priests each led various parts of the service. The people there laughed at the sermon the young priest gave, and I later learned he told a story about a monkey with a stomach ache, who was advised not to eat the fruit of a certain tree. He refrained for three days and then relented and got sick again and died. It is a tree with blossoms/fruit that are short lived but very lethal. I'm thinking the moral was about temptation.

At the offertory part of Mass, some villagers carried high a big basket of produce to place on the altar too. The priests all passed out communion as the choirs kept singing. The backdrop of the water in the barrage, and under very old trees made the outdoor mass especially beautiful. Towards the end of the service a catechist announced the amounts each neighboring parish had pledged and collected for the project to build a new church. They are very poor but giving people.

There was a market of sorts set up nearby where people attending this “Pelerinage” could get something to eat and drink while socializing with each other. We found the sisters from the CREN, and some of the older ladies we invited from the complex in Sabou. We met Georges two daughters, and most of his extended family. We found pork and bread and made sandwiches for everyone, as we all sat under a tree on benches. Later the girls and I found the African dancing that was going on in one area. We had fun dancing like Africans to the local music, and I followed the lead of the women in the circle stepping in rhythm to the sounds. The kids laughed as I tried out my steps, and later I heard from a lot of different people who either saw me there or heard I was there. Then it was time to go home.

We got to our compound in the afternoon to find the wedding feast happening. The ceremony was apparently over. We spoke to the men gathered under the hangar, slicing the roasted mouton meat and we got plates of food. We heard the women in the courtyard dancing, so we joined them after we ate. Abdoulaye and I watched his mother lead the Moore' chanting in her rich voice. The women invited me to dance, then passed me a veil to tie on my waist. The men drummed the calabashes and strummed the strings on the gas can and made beautiful music on homemade instruments. The festivities went on into the night.

03-03-08

This morning when I arrived at the clinic, the major was in a new orange boubou talking with people. Meanwhile Gansonre was looking for a woman's chart to find the diagram highlighting where her leprosy was on her body at the last exam. It had gone from her back and sides to both elbows and was now on her hands. In the main area the two trainees and Philippe, RN were treating 3-4 patients on IVs. I chatted with the major telling him I was preparing my presentation in French for his review. He gave it two thumbs up. Next I asked for the Microplan of the clinic for the next year, and was given that to read and glean info from. At this point I understood there will be a COGES mtg this afternoon, and I was invited.

I visited the marche' briefly that day to get supplies, food and visit people. Several people were happy to tell me they saw me dance Sunday after the church service at the barrage. Villagers like it when one tries to emulate their customs, and dancing is definitely one. Soon Garrett and I were eating a salad at the marche' and talking about the visa he is getting to go to Togo soon. I also found my friend Marie and we had a dolo together at the hangar.

In the late afternoon the COGES meeting started and lasted an hour. There were about 6 people there from the members of the group. The major and Gansonre ran the meeting with the president and treasurer responding with discussion at some points. My French professor arrived in time for the meeting and took some notes for me as it was all in French. He explained the discussion to me later. The major had to leave before it was over, and the next meeting will be the 30th of next month. Late in the meeting Gansonre invited me to explain my project to the members, so I did that after I introduced myself and confirmed their names. I told them I was going to present to three groups, Zao, Bolo and my quartier to have a discussion about health issues for them, using PACA tool for “Needs Assessment Matrix”. Gansonre helped demonstrate the tool to the GOGES members. We are set to begin on Wed.

After we returned to my house we spent time working on my French translation of the presentation and had tuna salad and tea. We rewrote the presentation. The next morning we took a copy over for the major and Gansonre to review. They liked it, especially the questions at the end about how does one get the main identified health problem, and how does the community treat the person with that problem. Then Gansonre told me the police were coming to take him to Zao regarding a construction accident there. He was finishing up with the patients he was seeing at the Sala clinic, showing the trainee how to flush out an eardrum on a 10yr old boy, who has put dirt down his.

After I left the clinic I went to the boutique to inquire about a taxi brousse to Gao. While there I visited the men out front and the older ones were patient with my Moore efforts. That was fun. I also visited more with the stagierre infirmiers. They want an American contact and they were cooking benga and invited me to eat with them. It was excellent, and Alexi was the cook.

After my language lesson, George and I discussed the presentation Wednesday and he asked whether the COGES were invited. I said sure, as I had given the details for everyone to know. They had mentioned at their meeting that they accompanied the last PCV to the sensibilisations. I am open to this.

05-03-08

We made our final preparations to go to Zao. George biked 15 K to Sabou for a black marker because there wasn't one here anywhere. What a trooper! We made the matrix on butcher paper, so it is ready for our work today. We stopped by the CSPS to touch base with the major before heading south to Dana and then Zao. He said the COGES were at the district today, and would not be coming. When we arrived at Zao, we found Beli and Atia, my friend, who took us to the marche' for benga. Many villagers were gone to a funeral so the presentation did not begin until afternoon under a big tree near the route. Beli retrieved benches and a blackboard for our use. We reviewed the presentation with Beli the AA for Zao and he offered to translate it into Guerrinsi for the villagers right after Georges translated my French statements into Moore'. As the crowd gathered, about 20 women, 10 men and 30 children, we commenced. After introductions, I explained that I wanted their help in discussing the most significant health problems in their village. I said we would use the matrix that I learned in Corps de la Paix. We would divide into smaller groups to identify the health issues. The first part went well. When we divided up Beli took the men, Patrice took another group and George took a big group of women. Each group came up with five health issues and we merged the lists until we had five for the matrix, and then began comparing every two issues. That was going pretty well and then an older gentleman started debating the merits of the process and the fact that it was midday, so we should give them money for their lunch he argued. I tried to ignore him, which was not the right thing to do. People started leaving.

Additionally some people requested medicine from us when they heard we were from the health clinic. A woman showed me her toddler's burn, where a 1” square of flesh was missing from her little foot. An older woman wanted aspirin for her headache.

It was determined that Diarrhee was the principle issue for this village. My closing three questions and statement did not occur this time. We ended the event as the headmaster from the school came by to say Hi. When we went back to the marche' Mdm. Kiemte from Thyou greeted us. She was there selling things, and I realized I had sat next to her on the last transport to Ouaga. She was so excited to see me and we talked quite a while.

I thanked both Beli and Atia for their help and support with our efforts in Zao. As we pedaled back home with the first presentation behind us, I felt OK, thinking it was a good effort for the first one. I assured Georges I couldn't have done it without his help and translation. I said I know I don't have the language yet to do this by myself, but in spite of that I want to be here! He told me that the language will come.

06-03-08

Thursday morning, time to weigh babies! The accoucheuse let me weigh the last four and write their birth weight in the register and in their health books. Soon the infirmier stagierres came to the maternite' and said they had a mother in delivery. There were two grammas in the waiting area, but it was going to be awhile I learned. I headed over to the school but no one was there. So I stopped at the quartier across from the school and found that the older man who was giving me Moore' words at the boutique yesterday lives here. We chatted and then a woman brought out benga and maise for me to eat. It was very good, and what I didn't finish the kids in the quartier were glad to eat.

My lesson was late today because George's daughter had his bike and wasn't aware of the time. We did a new dialogue and I read a chapter out of the primer. We agreed to meet at 7am to ride together to Sabou because he also was going to KDG for the weekend to visit his wife, and they would view the tombstone for their baby, which is supposed to be done by then. Later as I packed for Koudougou, I nearly cried when I opened the box Sally sent me with two new baby quilts and many other things for people in village.

07-03-08

Minata tied everything onto my bike and away I went in the morning. Georges was waiting in Thyou for me and we pedaled together to Sabou in an hour. We checked on the transport over to KDG which was supposed to leave at 9am, but after we found an omelette stand and returned, it was clear it would be much longer than that. I urged him to leave for KDG before it got any hotter, and he actually arrived there about the time we left Sabou on transport, 11:15am. Another woman from Thyou named Awa traveled to KDG with me and wants to visit me next Tuesday at my house. Since she spoke Moore' and I don't yet, a young man, Eric translated for us.

After I settled in at the mission, I went to the internet and then after about 45 minutes the power in town went out. My friend Alassone had joined me at the internet cafe to observe, and I promised to call him when I returned there.

At 5:15 the stations of the cross began at the mission. I walked behind the crowd and enjoyed the French hymns. I met my friend Achille at the Conference Center for dinner and to visit. He brought me a cahier of French phrases that he had copied. I had a pair of sandals for him, which fit nicely, and he was both surprised and happy. We both went to the cybercafe and the power was back on, so I called Alassane who came and joined us. Achille followed me home to the mission for safety.

08-05-08

Today is the “International Woman's Day” which is celebrated in a big way in Western Africa. The banks and poste were closed, but the market was open. There was a parade and presentation at the stadium in KDG. (See picture.) I texted Achille and when he came we walked to the grandstand where people were giving speeches in honor of the day. We went to the marche' and searched for material made specially for “Jour de la Femme 2008”. We found one pagne for 4 mill, way too much money! I will wait to get three pagne, enough to have a dress made. While there we bought wonderful peanut butter at the marche' and bread to make sandwiches with our avocados.

We went to the internet around 3 and Zach was there, a volunteer whom I met with JZ in December in KDG. Zach said a bunch of volunteers were staying with Melissa and everyone was going to dinner tonight at 6 or 7. We were invited to join them, but I hedged on the invitation. Pretty soon Nakiesha called me and said she was coming to get me for dinner. She scolded me for not calling them that I was coming to KDG. So Achille and I joined Kelly, Melissa, Nakeisha, Justin, and Zach for brouchettes and beer. We bought salad across the street and that rounded out our meal. They were fun to be around and welcoming to my friend. Achille followed me safely home before heading to his place.

09-03-08

The church bells at the seminaire woke me up at 6, and again at 8 they rang, but the priest last night told us mass was at 8:30, so when Achille arrived this morning and we walked over to the church, the overflow crowd was sitting on benches outside the building. The sermon was occurring when we got there, and then we threaded our way up for communion. The singing was wonderful and the priest had a good tone too. Of course the seminarians were angelic in sound. We walked back to my porch to eat the omelette sandwiches Achille had brought, then we had a visit from Georges and his wife, Laurentine, who had also gone to Mass at the seminaire today. The dining room chef gave me coffee to serve my guests.

Laurentine had greeted me warmly, touching the sides of our heads together. Georges said that the cross and heart tombe for their infant was not done. They had spent most of Saturday dealing with that. The metal work was done, and there was a coat of black paint on the tombstone, but the writing wasn't there. Georges and Achille discussed it a long time and eventually came up with the plan that Achille would do the lettering for Jean Marc Kiemtore', ne 23 Avril 2007, dec 15 Fevriere 2008. Sign painting is the line of work that Achille and his brother, Serafine do in Koudougou.

We looked at pictures on my laptop, before going to the internet cafe to post my blog. I had packed up my things and all four of us went down to the gare, where one catches the taxi brousse back over to Sabou. Turns out there wasn't going to be transport until very late, after 6pm. And that means it would be dark by the time that I would be riding my bike back 15 K to village.

The solution to that was that the driver would take me to the church in Sabou, and the priest would contact the sisters and see if I could possibly stay the night with them. The priest took me in his mini truck up the road a few kilometers to where the sisters were behind the new CREN we had visited. The sisters welcomed me, showed me to a room with a fresh bed, fed me dinner (the biggest meal I had in a long time), and we chatted about my work and theirs as we ate. Besides grace before and after the meal, Sister Mary said “Let's say hi to Jesus”, and showed me into a small chapel. Another interesting thing was the bathroom which had a shower, and two toilets, which is a typical French feature.

The next morning after mass in Sabou, we returned home for breakfast, another big meal. Srs. Amy and Margaret showed me their garden and their chicken house, and the mango on their petite fruit tree. (See pictures.) We all departed at the same time, me for Sala, and them for their weekly shopping in Koudougou. We exchanged information to stay in touch.

When I got home there was a big crowd gathered near the chef's compound celebrating the life of an older woman from there who had died. After a brief time getting ready, Minata and I went to the chef's quartier, where dancing, drumming and chanting were in full swing. Minata led the chant in her rich deep voice, while the women danced. When I danced the people got very animated, loving the effort. The chef was in traditional clothing, and I tried to capture these things in a couple pictures. Also Minata's brother, Gerard was shooting off a big old rifle to add to the celebratory atmosphere.

11-03-08

After braiding my hair this morning, which is getting easier with practice, I went to CSPS to talk with the major and Gansonre about contacting the ICPs in the satellite villages. I need to set up another presentation with villagers. I let the major know that I wanted to present to my quartiers here in Sala this week. He was patient with me and interested in my plans. I will confirm the date and time for him as I requested that someone from the clinic come and help with the presentation.

I found that the other questions I have are covered in the Microplan for 2008 that the CSPS had to develop. So I will borrow that and read it in French and translate it into English notes, so I can get my first quarterly report ready for Dr. Claude. Even in the PC there is tons of paperwork, reminds me of working for the state in Oregon.

I visited at the maternite' briefly before going over to the elementary school in Sala to give some things to the headmaster for the students. Edward is very interested in an exchange of letters from his school to the one in my hometown with the students at Harmony. I took a picture of him with a lot of students who had gathered there on the steps in front of his classroom to post for the students back home to see. (See photo.) The African students laugh when I show them the digital photo right away.

The temperature today is 105 degrees, and difficult to handle and study French and Moore well. Before the evening was over, I smelled rain in the air. Minata sent over tô and aubergine sauce for dinner. I had fried up some plaintain, so we were set. I asked Minata to invite the people from our compound to the presentation on Thursday morning at 9am. We all played a long game of Uno.

13-03-08

The night before the two nurses in training were on my front porch, waiting for me when I returned from the market. We reviewed the material for my presentation tomorrow, because we all assumed they would be helping with it. But no, this morning the major came over on his moto at 9am and he helped us with the project himself. The consensus was that we would do it under the big tree in front of both quartiers. The number of people attending were 20 women, 10 men and beau coup the children. The presentation went pretty smoothly with mine in French and Moore' translation by my teacher. The major led the men's group through the discussion of major health issues, while Georges led the women, who convened on my porch. The men finished quickly, so the major came over to watch the women wrap up. He noted that they had not included Palu (Malaria) in their top 5 health issues, so he talked to them about seeing so many patients for that and from bad water all winter in clinic here. The major in action is amazing to watch. Everyone loves and respects him very much.

Finally we settled on five issues for the matrix and compared each pair. Palu was number one issue by then. I asked the three questions and recited my conclusion thanking them for their time, etc. Then they applauded our efforts. That was satisfying.

That afternoon Awa, my new friend from the transport to KDG, came to my house with a huge bag of peanuts for me. We had seen her earlier in the week at market and she said she would come by after my presentation. Voila! I made lunch and Georges and Minata spoke with Awa in Moore'. She and I just hung out, looking at pictures of my family.

14-03-08

I finished translating the Microplan from French to English today. I had a morning language lesson because it is Friday in Lent and 1600 is the hour of the stations of the cross too. Then we went over to the CSPS to see if the nurse trainees were still coming over for dinner tonight. I want them to try tuna salad. They insisted that we stay for riz gras. We did and it was excellent. They expressed that they were sorry to miss the presentation at my quartiers, but listened to our report of the major helping us.

In the afternoon Garrett visited with me and we talked about our blogs and also his upcoming trip to Togo. He said the visa to Togo cost him 25 mill. Seems high, but I really don't know.

A tall beautiful teacher asked to go with me to “Chemin la Crois” today. I stopped on the way back home for some things for the salad tonight. When I got home I did some prep work on our dinner, then Kassoum and Alexi showed up at 6:30pm and we chatted over a cup of tea. I showed them the tuna pkg and also the dressing pkg. I gave them the directions to Uno in French for their information as we would be playing that later. This evening would be an American experience for them. Two teen girls came by on the pretense of visiting me, but pretty soon they were acting shy and eventually the trainees went out on the porch and chatted with them.

By 7:30 we were eating dinner, after which we moved out onto the porch which was much cooler and played Uno until 10pm. They loved it and we all had such fun. After I bid everyone Good Night I went to bed.

15-03-08

I read French primers with the Catechist's two sons, Bertrand and Claude. They are adorable and such nice boys. Later in the morning I returned the Microplan back to the CSPS and saw the two trainees there. They delivered two babies this morning. I went in to see the one still there and the newborn had vernix on its head it was so new. The stagierres and I exchanged phone numbers for later contact. Abdoulaye had washed my bike and Zanabou had washed my clothes and with Minata'a permission I gave them each 100 CFA. I passed out bonbons to the children and mothers in my quartiers, which is always exciting. They were happy. I spent the rest of the day packing for the next three weeks, when I would be in training. One week at Ouaga for Health Sector stuff, the next week in OHG, where we did our original in country training. There we would go back to our host villages and practice with some of the village work we will be doing in our assigned placements. And the third and last week will be in our regional capital city KDG for more local language training.

The next day, Sunday I spent the entire morning waiting for transport to Ouaga. Most taxi brousse were already loaded down and didn't even stop for us. Two musicians played for me while I was waiting. Finally a camion stopped and three or four of us got aboard to travel to Sabou where we would catch a taxi brousse. The one problem with this picture was that when I asked to sit up front (because I can't stand up for any time in the back of a big truck) the old man, young woman with her baby in lap and the driver were already there and not going anywhere. I sat on the front edge of the seat by the passenger door, which was fastened with a black rubber strap!?! So for safety I hung on dearly to the uncovered vents that were on the dashboard. We stopped along the way for other passengers too, and in Sabou the driver had someone take me to the transport spot. So generosity comes with ying yang inherent.

When I arrived at the transit house a big cheer went up, esp from Becky who is the closest to my age, 25 years younger. We get along famously and I was very glad to see her. We went around the corner to happy hour and caught up a bit. The PC car was coming at 6:30pm to take all of us in the Health Sector over to Dr. Claude's house for a catered dinner in their back yard. Her husband is the Minister of Justice for Burkina Faso and that position comes with a few benefits, this lovely home in a gated community being one of them. Dr. Claude said how proud she was of us and the work we are doing and most of all our enthusiasm. Doug Teschner, the new country director of PC in Burkina Faso was also there, and in his welcoming remarks he quoted Thoreau, from On Walden Pond, who said something like, “To get to the essence of life, I went into the woods to find my core.” Doug Teschner fit PCV into that image metaphorically.

16-03-08 First week of IST (In Service Training)

Some of the things we did this week were: Field Trip to Health Ministry Office, also presentation by the Palu (Malaria) Director, Field Trip to the American Embassy and talks from different department heads, a Safety and Security session, a talk by the BF director of Unicef, a Nutrition class with samples of good protein and local foods, grains and powders to enrich what villagers eat. Dr. Claude brought the powders, grains and plants in with labels and told us the merits of each. On Friday afternoon we had a NGO (Non-Governmental Organizations) fair, and finally most of us in village got a class on safety while riding on a motobike, when we travel to remote villages. Most of us were fitted for our helmets. We can't drive motos, only ride with someone on one, like our counterpart in village.

During the week our meals were catered into the PC bureau where we had our trainings, and we enjoyed this luxury after three months in village eating one dish meals,etc. Another night we had a backyard barbecue at the new director's home. Other program directors assisted with this, as Doug's wife will not be here until college lets out in America. At the end of the meal Mr. Teschner auctioned off some treats for correct answers to questions like, When did PC begin? Who was the first PC director? Name the 6 countries that surround BF, etc. It evoked a lot of laughter. We ate downtown a couple times too as we caught up on each other's life in village.

Saturday afternoon I walked over to St. Francis of Assisi's to find out the Mass time tomorrow, Easter Sunday. While I was there I inquired about Confession/Reconciliation and a woman found a seminarian, who in turn found a priest for me. I had told both people that I needed to do it in English, which didn't happen. So I did my first confession in French, some kind of milestone I believe. I have no idea if he understood me as I made up some vocabulary along the way. But I did understand when he gave me one Our Father and three Hail Mary's to say for penance.

On Easter Sunday I walked the eight blocks to Charles De Gaul Blvd to church. The choir danced in to the entrance chant, as the five priests and 8 altar boys entered too. The French Mass was spectacular. Two high school choral groups led the songs with the congregation responding with the refrains. The musicians were sitting to the left of the altar, and the choral director was at a microphone in front too. Soloists used the microphone, and then at the offertory, youth brought up baskets of fresh vegetables while the ushers carried forward the baskets of French currency. The host was gigantic. The altar boys rang the bells three times as the bread and wine were blessed and consecrated. At communion two priests went outside to offer communion to the throngs of people out there listening over the loud speakers.

As Mass neared completion the choirs (all in navy slacks and light blue tailored shirts) sang a medley of hymns. Women trilled and people swayed to the rhythm. When the priests left the altar, the choir spontaneously formed a line to encircle the altar in praise of the Lord for His resurrection. (See picture.)

24-03-08 Second week of IST in OHG

The first day we traveled from Ouagadougou to Ouahigouya, a three hour bus ride. After settling in at ECLA, where we had had our Pre Service Training, Becky and I rode our bikes out to Somyaga, our host village to visit our families there. A huge crowd was at the school for a football (soccer) game. My host brother, Madi stopped on the moto, greeted me and took my bags. Then my host sister, Aguerra came running from the soccer game to greet me. She took my bike along side me as we walked toward home. Then I saw the family coming to meet me. Orokia and I started running. And we hugged a long time. Then I hugged the teen girls in the family, then the little kids. As we neared the mango tree out front of the maison, Azita and Amade were waiting. Another round of hugs. Awa and I trilled some kind of high notes. It was a glorious reunion, and oh! how I missed them the three months in between.

We sat on the porch a while, then they showed me my old room was empty and clean. I got out my box of tee shirts for everyone, socks for Amade and earrings for all the women in the family. I gave them a new deck of cards, and passed around suckers. Everyone put on their new shirts for a picture. It was great fun. We chatted for a time and when Becky came, they wanted so bad for us to eat with them and stay overnight. We told them that we couldn't this night, but we would negotiate with Peace Corps for letting us stay another night this week after we did an activity in their village. At dusk we departed but Orokia and Fatimata followed us up to the paved road, and then the whole rest of the way into town. They wanted to assure our safety. We promised to return.

This week in OHG we learned: Presentation at School on Hygiene, especially getting intestinal maladies from the flies. We learned how to make ORS with water, sugar and salt, and songs to also show the students. We talked about what to do on rainy days at village. Stephanie gave two soap making demonstrations. We learned about monitoring and evaluating our work in village to see if we made a difference. We did our school presentation on Wednesday, and told Amade that we would eat with them on Thursday and stay the night.

Another area we covered this week was Fund Raising; use of Theater Groups for getting Health issues to the people in a fun way. Dr. Claude set up a field trip for us with a group of traditional healers, a Q & A session really; another field trip to CREN for bre demonstration; and we learned how to train COGES members regarding setting goals, priorities and getting the community involved.

Friday morning when I woke up at my host family home, I could hear women's voices over at Awa's. I went over there and sure enough there was a room full of women, some from the group that dances. I loved seeing them all. Gramma Awa didn't want to let go when she hugged me. We went into another trilling round. She's worried about my arms being too thin. Somehow she and I bridge the language differences. Orokia brought hot cereal she made from millet, and Amade brought me bread and coffee and tea. I asked about the twins that were born the day I left village and Orokia went and got one with the mother and other twin following her. They were chubby and beautiful, the mother looked fabulous. I took pictures of course.

Before leaving for Somyaga, I also took many pictures of my host family. Hand in hand, Orokia, me and Fatimata walked to the hangar in the center of their village for the COGES training. The wind was pretty bad, so we moved into the lobby of the maternite' and when no members arrived for the meeting, we decided to use my family, which worked out well. We had a list of questions about SIDA(AIDS)-HIV which my host sister Fatimata translated into Moore' for the others who joined us. Some came to visit the new baby and mother in the maternite' and ended up answering questions with us too. It was a good discussion with Orokia there as she had some definite ideas on the subject. As we pulled away from village my family was waving and Amade motoed up right then too. I'm sure I wasn't the only teary one.

Back in OUA Robert and I had to go to town with Burema to get fitted for moto helmets. The driver let us shop across the street for fabric about Jour de la Femme 2008, and we negotiated 3 pagnes each for 5 mill 750CFA. We were happy with the deal. I had so many boxes come in the mail that I had to leave some at the Transit House for later pick up, but I managed to take four boxes with fans, batteries and things I need for the hot weather that's coming. When we got to KDG on the bus, I text my friend Achille, who came on a moto, strapped on my 4 boxes and took them with us to the seminaire, where we (Rob and I) are starting our third week of IST with JZ in Moore' language.

01-02-08

This morning I got ready to bike to Sabou to take a taxi brousse over to Koudougou. Georges had offered to accompany me on the bike ride and we met in Thyou at 6:30 to begin the 15K ride, which took just over an hour. After we checked for transport which wasn't leaving anytime soon, we found an omelette place in Sabou for breakfast. We had waited a long time for a bush taxi, when we saw that a camion was loading up and we considered that option, but I can't stand in the back. Georges struck a deal with the driver that for 1200 francs he would take all my stuff, bike and me (sitting up front). I bid my friend goodbye and it was nice to have a companion on the morning bike ride. The trip was uneventful across to KDG, for which I was thankful.

I stopped by the little store where I had left the brand new notepads on the counter, and after much explanation, they gave me two more. I loaded up on fruit, avocado and bread to make meals with and headed for the seminaire. The sister that handles the lodging was happy to see that I had returned after spending a week here in December. I tried to nap after a long hot shower (what a treat!) and then I biked to the cybercafe to use the internet. I had 57 msgs in my email, and spent a couple hours sorting through them. About that time the site crashed, so I returned to my chambre and typed on my laptop as long as my eyes lasted. There was a big conference with many people also at the petit seminaire, Notre Dame D' Afrique. I could hear them as I read my book into the evening, but things quieted down around 10, so I could easily sleep.

The next day Nakeisha texted me and we made a date to meet at the new marche' in the center of town to shop and from there go to lunch. When we did meet it was a warm reunion, Nakeisha is a wonderful young woman, so outgoing. Keisha and Melissa love to shop, and they showed me where to get the best (pate d' arachide) peanut butter. We found African gifts there, jewelry and carved animals to send home for gifts. Melissa was hunting for supplies for her home in KDG and Nakeisha wanted a CD player with a speaker. Of course the shopkeeper tried to sell her a big boom box, but with no luck. Nakeisha holds her own when it comes to bargaining in French!

We did lunch at a nearby conference center, where we enjoyed salads and trench fries in a private, outdoor setting under many big trees. We talked and talked to catch up on things since our training time together in OHG. We chatted about life in village. Keisha shared she has seen three babies born, and been to the primary school to meet the staff and students. She wants to start an English club after school. By chance her language tutor happened by, and he is the headmaster at her local school. Everyone in Peace Corps is encouraged to get a language tutor in village right away to help with their French, but also to learn the local tribal language. We are reimbursed up to 10 mil francs a month.

I met up with my friend Achille, who works at his brother's sign painting business downtown. He showed me around the shop. Then we biked a ways to his family compound because he said his father insists that I meet his grand soeur (big sister) and his grand frere again. Seraphin greeted me warmly and showed me his silk screening process he does on the computer. He was getting a big order of tee shirts ready and gave me a sample one with his logo on it.

At his parent's home, Achille carried his ailing father from his bed into the front room so we could visit. Maxime has a degenerating disease of the nerve system that wastes his muscles too. He enjoyed viewing the pictures I had on my camera showing what we did the previous weekend during Achille's visit with me at my village. He smiled proudly seeing his son in the photos. Cecile, his mother is also a sweet person and I insisted on a couple photos of Achille and her before I left. After that we spent some time at the internet, where he watched me post photos and answer emails.

03-02-08

I was outside this Sunday morning waiting for Achille, who came walking down the lane to the seminaire with his pedal in hand. We walked over to the church where the public was arriving and taking up pews, both front and center aisles were filled with the boys from the seminaire school. Soon 5 priests and 4 altar boys processed down the aisle and that wonderful singing led by their choral director commenced. Organ music and drumming was in the background. The mass was in French with a sermon that elicited laughter. The boys were neat and clean and sang beautifully. Much of mass was sung, very much like a high mass. After breakfast Achille and I went to the internet so I could post my blog, him walking and me riding my bike. Achille went off to fix his bike. When he returned I showed him the portfolio of Amade's relative, Haroun, who had an acrylic art display in Tuscon late February. When Haroun contacted my cousin Faye, they met for dinner and a mutual cultural experience. Several of my other cousins were there visiting too, and all thoroughly enjoyed his visit.

Achille accompanied me to the taxi brousse gare, for an transport that left 30 minutes ahead of schedule, so we waited two more hours for a car to Sabou. There I had to catch another transport to my village for an additional 750 francs. I was glad though that I hadn't tried to ride home in the dark. The driver left me off at the Sala boutique, and to my house then was a short way. Minata and family were glad to see me and she danced when I gave her the pommade de karite' for her skin. Turns out that this product is one of the top five exports from Burkina Faso. It sure works on my feet well!

04-02-08

When I went to the CSPS clinic this day the major told me about the semi-annual COGES meeting with the community which was at the school yesterday. He said it was well attended. Gansonre was working on the goals and objectives for the MicroPlan for Sala. He gave me the health plan to look at. I sat in the waiting room at the clinic as the five beds filled up with people sick with malaria and pneumonia. The major told me the maladies are often related. I watched as a small girl did not cry or even wince as Gansonre hooked up an IV to her right hand. Later I brought her a toy, ball and jacks, which I showed her big brother how to play. Her mother smiled approvingly as I motioned for permission for the child to take them with her free hand.

After my language class that day I went over to Gansonre's to watch the soccer match between Egypt and Cameroon (1-2) on black and white TV. There were others there very excited about the game too. Gansonre's wife, fixed dinner for all of us, spaghetti and salad. I got bread and drinks at the bavette to contribute to the meal. It was dark when we walked back home.

05-02-08

The major was already seeing many patients when I arrived at the clinic. He flushed out a little girl's ear until the debris came out with the water. They went outside for a better look into her canal as he showed her father and explained about the prescription for antibiotic and pain I think. (There is no electricity in village hence no indoor lighting either.) A listless baby was brought in, and checked for enlarged spleen/liver, then Gilbert carefully found a vein for the IV drip. Two Muslim women came in, one with obvious pain in the skeleton/muscle system. Another woman holding her infant came in with a young man. She uncovered an earlobe that hung below her jawbone, Elephantiasis is the name of this condition (not contagious, but no treatment the major told me). It was a very busy morning there.

For lunch, I went to the marche' and bought barbecued pork and bread for a sandwich. I found produce I needed, i.e. bananas, carrots, cabbage, lettuce, onions, and coconut. My neighbors led me to their hangar where one of the primary school teachers from Sala wondered why I was not at the COGES meeting last weekend. She brought over a man who could converse in English and translate for us. We walked over to the hangar my friends from church had and socialized with a variety of people I knew. I stopped by Garrett's place on the way home to see how his Ouaga trip had been to watch the Super Bowl Game on Sunday, at 11pm our time! He said it had an exciting finish.

After French lesson, we played a very long game of Uno with Abdoulaye. They love that game here. I text Shawn to wish him happy birthday before the day was done.

06-02-08 Ash Wednesday

I called the PC bureau in Ouaga about some of my medications and about my glasses this morning. I went to the little boutique in Sala to let the shopkeeper know Peace Corps would send those things there by transport today or tomorrow. When I went to the clinic I found Gilbert handling all the medical problems, as the major was gone to KDG and Gansonre was gone to the district for a meeting. Gilbert had a baby and two women on IV drips, with others waiting to be seen.

After an afternoon of French homework and my lesson, Minata told me my pkg had arrived at the boutique, so I went to get it. The morning was cooler, but then the hot wind began blowing and the day turned very hot, and it is only February. I was sweating! As darkness fell, the children in my compound were playing very hard and loving it, as it is too hot to sleep yet. Abdoulaye said my unit is cooler than theirs because of the windows and cross ventilation. They often sleep on mats in the yard.

I read in the evening, and I can hardly put the “Kite Runner” down, a story of an Afghanistan man with very deep emotions. I cry more often than not when I read this book. Across cultures the core things about family life have a similar ring to them.

07-02-08

Pierette, the accoucheuse had a total of 20 women with their infants at the Maternite' this morning as baby weighing began. She let me help. I weighed over half of the babies there. A scale suspends from the doorway frame and the baby sits in a soft plastic seat, registering their weight. I recorded the numbers in the register where she tracks it. This baby weighing is a fun task.

I practiced in a new reader, in both Moore and French today. Then we listened to two soccer games back to back on the radio; Ghana and Egypt, also Cote d'Ivoire and Cameroun. Abdoulaye borrowed scissors and tape to work on his model while we sat listening to the games. Zanabou came too, and we read her French primer. Shawn called and told me on his birthday Jodi surprised him with dinner at his favorite Indian restaurant with a few friends. I'm sure it was fun to have their new baby son at the party.

08-02-08

I woke up reading the Kite Runner, so many things in life are bittersweet! Come to Africa and face memories in America!

Grilled cheese sandwich is one of my favorite breakfasts here: slice the baguette, spread “Laughing Cow” cheese on the crust side, butter the fresh bread side, and put it in the fry pan. With a piece of fruit and a cup of coffee, I start my day! I was in the waiting room, when the major invited me to observe. He tested a man for high blood pressure and gave him Lasilix. Next he saw a 5 month old baby for Palu, with no weight record to be found. He said “Rate Gross”- pneumonia, and prescribed oral medication. Then he saw a man around 30, with Ancien Malade (old injury) for which he gets an antibiotic shot and pills.

I had my French lesson before noon today due to my teacher leading Stations of the Cross at church every Friday during lent at 4pm, the usual time of my lesson. Georges had conjugated avoir and etre in four tenses with the rules governing them for me to study. He also wrote out a dialogue about a fire in the field for us to practice in both French and Moore'. It proved interesting.

During this time, one of the PC program directors called to invite me to participate in a diversity workshop for managers, under the direction of Andrea, an Eng speaking Senegalese with the Western African PC Program. Six-eight recent volunteers were invited it turns out, from different ethnic backgrounds. I fit into that category being the only senior volunteer in the West Africa area. I agreed that on February 20 I would come to the capitol to join the group.

In the afternoon and before the service at church “Chemin de Croix”, we went to the marche' in Thyou. It was very slow, as during lent (Careme) there is no dolo on Fridays, hence the lack of business. I shopped for my veggies, and we got bread and fried fish to make a sandwich. As we sat on a log and made our lunch, we were visited by several beggars, which still catches me by surprise, as they are persistent. The carpenter, Gerard came by too, and promised to bring my bookcase on Sunday to my house. He bikes it on top of his head he tells me.

We also stopped at Garrett's place was on the way to church. We stopped there for water refill and short visit. The crowd gathered in the hangar at church, and processed along the dirt driveway stopping ever so often for prayers and chanting at one X on the ground symbolizing a station of the cross. Georges led the group in the songs, one particularly beautiful Moore' chant “Jesus ya Toogo” he taught me on our bike ride back. He text his brother Maxime and called his femme in KDG, where he is going tomorrow for the weekend to visit his wife and baby.

On Saturday I thought I might check out the clinic on the weekend to see how busy they are. First I went to buy more cellular units. On the way I stopped at a quartier across from the school and chatted with everyone there. One young woman, Zanabou, said her teacher Garrett was having his students do an exercise on AIDS, and advised those living in Sala to talk to me for more health info. She spoke fair English, as she is taking that class from Garrett. She wrote down her question so I could talk with Garrett next time I saw him to get the details. Eventually I loaned her some written materials in French that she could use in her assignment.

At the CSPS was Gilbert working with a handful of people. Not too much action, plus it was very hot. Every day this month has reached 100 degrees, and luckily cools off at night. I must be getting acclimated as last October when I arrived in BF that temp bothered me. Not so much now. I went home and began studying my “Etude de Mileau”, but it is hard to concentrate in the heat. I sat outside with Minata under the hangar, and hand stitched my pintard valances for the two windows in my big room.

On Sunday I got ready early and pedaled 3 K to the church, where Jean Baptiste led the service (no priest again). Songs and prayers, but no Mass. On the way home I decided to find the cabaret so I could return bottles, but I was not in the right section of Thyou. As I wandered around the area, suddenly a woman came by and said Marie and Besile are over here, as she led me to their home. Sure enough there she was along with four of their children, her mother, and numerous neighbor kids. Marie was one of the first friends I had made at church, and obviously she shared that info with her friends and neighbors. Marie offered me water and as I took a couple photos, all the children wanted in them too. It was great fun!

Soon I left there and as I passed the community center in Thyou, I could hear what sounded like a revival going on. My curiosity took me inside, where the youth were dancing. The young boys were on the stage moving rhythmically to the boom box music. The many teen girls were stage right and also dancing to the sounds. I managed to get a good picture of the boys, but when I tried for the girls, kids swarmed in front of my camera. (See photos.) I so enjoyed seeing the good fun the youth were engaged in.

Late in the afternoon after sitting outside with the women of my compound, Abdoulaye and I walked around inside the area of the quartiers and corrected my map. There are about two dozen living units therein and I listed the inhabitants so I can get the names and faces linked in my mind. Then we listened to a playoff game on the radio, until I got a call from Angie. I talked with Lindsay about her recent birthday. It is so good to talk to family at home. This generation of PCVs have it so good in respect to modern communication, cell phone and email.

11-02-08

When I arrived at CSPS the major was training a nurse, named Philippe, He is a new addition allocated due to the work volume. I was happy to hear some pretty good English from him, which he said he learned in school. He is a big, well built man with a gentle nature. Gilbert was doing IV and injections and consulting as well.

Today I wanted to get to the marche' early as the major told me that's when there is still fruit. I also had better directions to find the cabaret, so in fact I did that first. Marie and Besile found me at the marche', and also my friend Atia from Zoa tried to take me away for dolo, but that had to wait. We got cooked pork for sandwiches and were sitting there eating in the dolo hangar, when a blind man named Victor began singing and playing his stringed instrument. (See photo.)

I found two small canaries with chips which I got for a good price, and want to plant flowers in for my porch. My neighbor children got wound up playing outside after dark, as all children everywhere do. It was too hot to be inside. I took a brief walk on the moonlit path by my house and then sat on the wall encasing the compost bin. Abdoulaye and I visited until Georges rode up on his bike just back from KDG and apologized for no lesson today. He said his baby is sick with pneumonia and is on two antibiotics, so Georges said he will return to KDG on Saturday. He said he visited his brother Maxime, at the seminaire in KDG. He is working on formation services for another town nearby.

When I went to the clinic the next morning, Gansonre was there with the new nurse looking on, so was Gilbert. I sat in the waiting room playing with a baby, as two other babies were on IVs. (See photo) I watched as the new nurse changed a dressing on a man with bad leg and arm scrapes from a moto accident. These kind of injuries are all too often in Burkina Faso, as moto is the leading vehicle after bicycles here. I visited the construction workers, who are building the major's new house by the CSPS. Then I went home to get two magazines to share with them about Sports and cities in America. The workers will return to Ouaga when their job is done, but everyone has questions about America. Luckily a friend sent me magazines I could loan them.

I texted Bintou in Bobo, a green large city in southern BF, where she is teaching businessmen French. She extended greetings to Minata, the major and Gansonre and me here in Sala. Often people ask after her.

13-02-08 PCV Robert visits from 90K south..

I met Rob getting off the taxi brousse at Sala's boutique, and after we got his flat bike tire repaired, we walked over to the CSPS, and met all the staff. We talked a long time to the new nurse about how poor Burkina Faso is and what our work here will be. He seemed intrigued at our choice to be here.

Before lunch we took a bike ride around the barrage, where I showed off Minata's garden along with the others. When we got back to my place Garrett and Georges met us there for a lunch of salad and grilled cheese sandwiches. We all chatted quite awhile until it was time for my language lesson. While we were busy, Garrett showed Rob where to catch the taxi brousse to Ouaga tomorrow morning in Thyou.

In the late afternoon we started Uno and when Abdoulaye got home from school, I had him take my hand, while I fixed dinner. (See photo.) We had stir fry over rice. Garrett came back, bringing home made warm brownies with no leavening. He recently put together a Dutch Oven. Dessert is a big treat here and they were gone in no time. The Uno game went on until 9pm when I called it. It was delightful to hear Rob and Garrett and Georges and Abdoulaye joke in French as they played Uno, they enjoyed each other's company so. Rob offered that I need to keep learning French so I can talk to my peers. I can get someone local to talk Moore to the villagers but in order to leave things sustaining themselves, I need to organize not do the work.

14-02-08

In the morning I made breakfast while Rob bathed. He liked bathing inside with no wind/cold.. I am lucky to have an indoor douche. He tied all his stuff on his bike to go catch the transport in Thyou.. Rob and I tried to take a picture of the pintards flying enmasse out of the big tree as dawn came, but the time lapse wouldn't allow for good pictures. We ate p&j sandwiches before Rob left.

When I arrived at the maternite' women and infants were assembled. We hung the scales in the doorway suspended from a hook. We weighed six babies then Pierette showed me how to fill in the main book register. While she saw a few women for pregnancy visits, I continued weighing babies and recording that information. I loved it. We finished around 11am and I came home to get ready for market. In this culture everyone goes to market.

First I went to the barbecue place to buy pork for sandwiches, but then Marie and Besile invited me over under a tree near the north end of the market, as a bunch of her family was gathered there. I met her petite soeur (sister), and her sons, who were selling fresh fish they caught. Then Basile rode by, and I went to greet him. Soon we met his father and a brother too. After we socialized over a dolo or two, we headed to the marche' for fresh veggies, bread and coconut. We found a place to sit and make the pork sandwiches, and Georges introduced me to his father and sister who came by. Marie went searching for bananas for me. Marie and Basile want very much to play Uno again, so we made plans when I return from Ouaga to do that.

After I went back home, and finished my language lesson, my new teen friends, whom Garrett teaches, came by, Zanabou and Salinata. They visited awhile and I gave them some written material on AIDS for a paper they had to turn in. My lantern ran out of wick, so I sent the neighbor kid to the local boutique and they had a replacement wick. He also came home with my jacket---I couldn't believe it. The taxi brousse chauffeur left it at the boutique for me. We fried up the fresh fish for dinner along with a salad and French bread. It was good eating!

15-02-08

We had French lesson early today because of Lent I went to maternite' and told the accoucheuse Pierette how much I enjoyed weighing babies and she was glad. She showed me the list of training sessions the PCV did last year with the young mothers at maternite'. It included things like “making enriched porridge, prevention of malaria, benefits of vaccination, prevention of diarrhea, and the advantages of having an attended delivery”.

While at clinic I checked in with the major on my request to attend the mosque with him today, to which he had agreed. We planned to meet there before the noon service. Attired in a skirt, long sleeved shirt and head wrap, I arrived on time at the Thyou mosque and was promptly greeted by Lizetta, a neighbor from my compound. Then I spotted the major El Hadj all decked out in a beautiful boubou and his red and white checkered scarf. After we greeted, the major indicated that the women pray in the building directly behind the mosque. Lizetta led the way, we removed our sandals, and walked into the room of prayer rugs and praying women. They made room for me in the front row. Lizetta added a veil to my head wrap.

She also modeled what posture I should take as the chanting and praying was microphoned in from the main building. I was to raise my hands to my face at times, then down and out of sight. We also adopted positions of kneeling, standing and bowing. She removed my glasses and I was to look down at that time. At the end of the service we greeted people with “Wendga Weise” as we departed. The major came over and asked if I wanted to meet the high priest. I did meet a group of men all with the red and white head scarves, the sign they have been to Mecca. The major asked about my Koran, which I had not brought along. (See picture of the group.)

I took a couple hours in the afternoon for lunch and journaling, then I pedaled to my church and although I was very early for stations of the cross, I was in the company of many other women. The catechist began the service. His wife, Marie along with Georges led the singing. The procession with stops and kneeling along the path lasted over an hour. The Burkinabe's devotion to their faith and rituals is quite moving across all the religions.

When I returned home near dusk, Gerard delivered my bookcase, which I was happy with. It is nice to get my books out of boxes and more accessible.

Vaccination Week

16-02-08 I pedaled the 15 K to Zao, getting there by 9am. I went to the school and left some things, but there was no school today so I did not talk to anyone. The major arrived at Zao shortly after that, and opened the little square CSPS building. The women started coming with their infants. We had two helpers, Beli ASC and another person Patrice, AA (Aucien Agent de Zoa). My friend Atia is in Sabou this weekend, so I did not connect with her in village. The pregnant women and the infants received their appropriate vaccinations and by noon we had seen the majority of those coming.

At noon the major took me over to the hangar of Bertine for benga and mui avec pima (beans and rice with hot pepper). I had eaten here before with my friend Atia, so was glad to see Bertine again. I took pictures of her plus others. (See photos) Then Patrice took me to a dolo place and we socialized with the villagers who were there.

In the afternoon as I rode back to Sala I took pictures of the stacks of wood alongside the road. The big camion trucks come at night and pick up the wood, load it well over the sides of the truck bed, tie it down and drive rapidly back towards the capitol. Sometimes there is a second trailer attached. Reminds me of the semis at home trucking down the freeways at night.

When I reached home, it was late afternoon and the children were out playing, so I passed out lollipops, to them and their mothers who came out for a treat too. I read for awhile and finished my book, “The Kite Runner” and since I had cried through a lot of it, especially the ending, I was a basket case! I had prepared vegetables for dinner and Lizetta came by and requested a donation of food. She was taking it all to CSPS for families there. When the women saw the stir fry veggies, they wanted to eat it themselves, but I asked that they take it to the families of the sick at the clinic.

I took my bucket bath before retiring. I love the coolness of the bucket bath. It is a reprieve from the heat. It is so hot, and doesn't cool down until after 2am most nights.

17-02-08

This morning I left home at 8:30 for Dayolo and my odometer started working. I was listening to my MP3 player music, when halfway there the nurse, Gansonre and trainee, Kassoum passed me on their way to vaccinations. I kept going past Dana onto Dayolo and stopped short of the right village. There was a big group of people there who came to meet me.

I soon discovered my mistake and went on past the dike and over a small bridge to the correct place under a hangar in the center of the market place at Dayolo. A brother of one of the helpers from last month, Adama was there to assist. Gansonre was supervising the nurse trainee, Kassoum giving shots to children. One mother of twins was instructed by Gansonre to take her boy twin to the CREN in Sabou because he is malnourished. I walked over to her and asked if she was going directly to Sabou and she made a gesture of eating. I gave her 100 francs. We will see if that helped get them there. After the people who wanted immunizations were treated, it was near 11am.

We headed back towards Dana, where the two ASC Babou and Bitiou were there helping out. Bitiou was passing out pills to children and women. He had a measuring height stick, color coded and gave the designated number of pills the color coding indicated. We worked there a couple hours with the villagers receiving vaccinations and medicines until the crowd was treated. Then Babou took me across the road to the restaurant for a lunch of meat in broth. After hanging out at the marche' awhile in Dana, I headed back home to Sala 10K and an hour away. It was so hot, I napped as soon as I could. My friend Zanabou didn't show up for our discussion on her homework AIDS assignment. But soon another young person, Alassane, who studies in Koudougou came by to visit. He speaks English and wants to practice with me. He also wants to learn the internet, so we made a plan for the next time I am in KDG to call him when I go to the cybercafe'.

In the evening as Minata came home from her garden at the barrage, she saw an accident on the road between a motobike and a donkey cart. A young person was injured and taken to CSPS. Minata had blood on her hands from helping out.

18-02-08

I got ready for the ride to Salo, 8K away and the path commenced behind the CSPS buildings. It is a gradual ascent for 5-6K, then somewhat flat the last 2K. A woman also on a bike was going my way and I found her to be very helpful to my staying on the correct route. When I arrived at Salo I went through the marche' until on the other side I found the big tree, under which the vaccinations are done. Three men were passing out pills to the population just like in Dana yesterday, and using the same measuring devise. The pills are for paludisme/elephantiasis, a disease which causes enlarged body parts.

The nurse Gilbert and trainee Alexis were getting things ready for vaccinations when Gilbert mentioned Georges coming back home. I said he is in KDG and may return today. He then said that Georges baby died in KDG on the weekend, and that both his wife and baby had respiratory illness, and the baby didn't make it. My heart sank and I teared up. Health in BF is often on a thin line between life and death.

I saw several young mothers I had met at the CSPS, one with a very ill (pneumonia) baby, who was here for immunizations and her infant was doing very well now. Her baby was born in September, the month my newest grandchild Cash came. That contrasted with Georges baby reminded me of the fragility of life for the very young.

Many of the older women taking the pills being passed out, were having trouble swallowing them outright, so I offered them my water. Kids were gagging on them too, so we passed out all the water I had and sent someone to the well for more.

Before school let out at noon, I went to visit there and Daniel, the fourth level teacher, came out to greet me. He was happy with the alphabet and numbers to hang up in his room, and his students greeted me warmly. Soon the headmaster Ky came along and he too enjoyed the gift, as did the two women teachers. I didn't have any more to pass out to the two lower classes, but Daniel insisted that I say hi to the classes at the very least. The first graders had already adjourned, but they were lingering and watching my activity. When they saw me going towards their classroom, they all ran back inside so I would visit them. They were adorable. I asked them “Were you chanting?” earlier. And they sang me a song. I promised to return with more things, pencils, crayons, paper, etc. Daniel took me to his class and they also sang me a song, which was on the board in French so I could follow along.

When I got back to the vaccination site, Gilbert, Alexis and I walked to the marche' and found the woman who makes rice and vegetables. Gilbert also got some meat, which looked like chicken, but was rabbit. We all tried some and it was tasty. After socializing with some of the locals at the marche' a woman came over and indicated I needed to retrieve my bike from under the tree where we were all morning, as they were finished there. I got on my bike and rode home by myself, crying all the way.

When I got home Gerard was there doing a few carpentry things for me along with Minata, Lizetta and another friend of theirs. They asked what was wrong and I said Georges baby died at KDG on the weekend and it is so unfair. Minata hugged me and led me to my bedroom and said “No, don't cry.” Gerard said “When babies are sick with malady here, it is best they are with God.” They all said that is life and move on. I am learning another cultural difference and this one is difficult for me.

Late in the afternoon I was reading French primer with two of my neighbor girls, when my language teacher arrived for our lesson. I offered condolences and after the girls left, I listened to Georges describe his son, Jean Marc, last day. Their baby had an injection/transfusion at the hospital to continue treating his respiratory illness. And at home in the early morning hours the baby quit breathing. They tried to reach Georges by phone, but he was already en route to KDG to visit them. He said that upon his arrival they interred the baby at the cemetery. He said it took a lot of courage to view their son's body before his burial. He finished with “Jesus has said “whoever wants to follow me, will carry his cross.” He drew a sketch of the tombstone he's having made, a heart with the inscription and a cross behind it. Their faith supports them during this difficult time.

My neighbors came to offer condolences before Georges left.

19-02-08

Today we traveled to Bolo for vaccinations. I asked the new RN if I could follow him there. I pedaled to the barrage where the trail forks toward Bolo and waited. The motos came by and I saw the direction they went plus I had my compass, so I followed and in an hour I was there too. I also asked along the way to make sure I was on the right path.

The CSPS staff was set up at the far side of the marche' and two local helpers were passing out the pills for elephantiasis to the population. I greeted many people and took some pictures, one of the woman who was preparing lunch of spaghetti and lapine (rabbit). After eating lunch and chatting with some of the young men at the marche', I headed home. Along the way I photographed some million year old rock formations with trees growing out of them in their crevasses.

I started packing while there was still daylight for my trip to Ouaga the next morning. When it was my lesson time, I studied future tense verbs from the French textbook. Georges was an hour overdue, and apologized, but had company all day giving condolences My house was hot so we sat on the porch and reviewed our last dialogue in both French and Moore', corrected sentences, and I read from the primer. We visited a while. He texted his seminarian brother Maxime who is coming Wednesday to be with Georges and his two girls. Georges is close to his younger brother and so proud he is becoming a priest.

The next morning I left on a taxi brousse at 7:30am for Ouaga and sat with Madame Kiemde and her daughter, Jedidiah, age 2, who was afraid of me. Spearmint gum changed her mind. She fell asleep on her mother's lap on the way to the capitol. Ms Kiemde and I made plans to visit in Thyou in the near future. We were practicing my French on the way.

It was good to see my friends at the Transit House when I got there via a taxi cab. Stephanie A, Natalie, Matt, Courtney, Josh and Kevin and Helen were also there. I went to the PC bureau to pay Jean Luc for the batteries he sent to village for me, but he wouldn't hear of it. We talked about the artisans at the end of Charles de Gaulle Blvd., because I want to visit the place where BF holds the International Art Festival every two years in Oct. About that time Lorraine called for the first time from America, and I went outside to chat with her until her card ran out. That hour whizzed by. She has a wonderful ear for listening and I told her about my teacher's baby dying. She had predicted before I came, that some things would make my heart heavy.

Peace Corps had put us on Alert today because of civil unrest in two other major cities. The PCVs who were invited to be a part of the Diversity Conference therefore gathered at the bureau for a dinner catered in rather than eating out. When we met with Andrea, from Senegal, who is the West African Regional Specialist for PC, she went over the plan for tomorrow and how we would be used in a “fishbowl” exercise. Basically we six sitting in a circle would have a discussion about our beginning PC experience and the management attending the diversity training would watch the exercise from the outer circumference.

Back at the Transit House I chatted awhile with Stephanie and Natalie about life in village the last two months. Natalie sketched Stephanie as we talked. It's amazing to see an art major in action capturing the personality of her subject in awesome detail in less than half an hour.

02-21-08

Natalie fixed me a morning cup of coffee adorned with a cinnamon stick. Some volunteers were sitting around the 8 foot table eating cereal, which felt like America to me. Later I went around the corner to get an omelette with onions sandwich. Helen looked at the problem I'm having with my digital camera card and copied some pix from it to the internal memory in my camera. Now I should be able to get at them to put on my flash drive and onto the internet. I am so happy these “younguns” know how to do all this high tech stuff.

Mid afternoon at the Diversity session we six discussed topics ranging from religion and marriage in Burkina culture, to being American and living among Burkinabe', to being an older person (me) in the PC, to sexuality and lifestyles. Our conversation lasted an hour or so. We headed back to the transit house, where Josh prepared a huge green salad with help from others chopping veggies and making dressing. With a good bottle of wine and some French bread we were all ready to eat.

Chris called me and we chatted a long time about how things were going both here and there. I am thankful every day for my cell phone and the technology that allows me to have a regular conversation with my loved ones. It makes me glad I am here now, rather than 45 years ago when PC began. Of course letters from home are always treasured and reread numbers of times.

22-02-08

Last night we were all told that we would be going back to village today due to political unrest in the country. I arose early, wrote postcards, got a pkg ready to go with a volunteer to America. I needed to go to bureau to have a couple minor repairs on my bike, use the internet and get my mail with 3 boxes from home. What luck to get a ride home via PC car with all my stuff and 3 boxes. I stopped on my way back to transit house to purchase fruit and avocados to take to village. On the way out of town Idrissa the driver stopped so I could get eggs and liquid detergent at the boutique by the transit house. He drove me out of Ouaga and back to village. I was safely at home by noon. I settled back into my home, which had a layer of dust from the wind since I left two days ago. I visited in the afternoon with Garrett about the Stand Fast Alert the PC had us on and how we would be in village until it was lifted. That evening I played checkers and Uno with my neighbors until nearly 10, and we had such fun with it.

On Saturday the Franciscan priest, named Casmere, was saying Mass in Villa, 7K away from Thyou in a small chapel there. Casmere is Polish descent, comes from Italy and lives with the group of Franciscan missionaries at St. Luc's Parcisse in Sabou. Georges and I pedaled the slight incline to Villa to attend Mass (first one this month) as did other villagers we knew. We sat in the back of the chapel on a bench, and there were benches outside the entrance with many people on them. Fr. Casmere put his vestments on by the front altar, then the choir began the service led by a young woman. Father said the Mass in Moore'. There was a baptism of a baby at this mass. As I tried to take a picture of that, the electronics in my camera interrupted the sound system set up by the back door (and next to us). Oops! I put camera away but not before everyone turned around to see what was happening.

Towards the end of the Mass the lay minister said the priest requests a few words from the guest, to which I said “Oh my!” I asked Georges to come with me up to the microphone and translate into Moore' for the congregation. I thanked them for their attention to me, and explained I was a PC volunteer living here for two years to work with health issues. Georges said they want my name and I was able to say that in Moore', which pleased them. He told them I was working with the major and health staff at CSPS in Sala. When he finished translating that, I said one more thing: “My religion is very close to my heart and it makes me feel at home to come to Mass, in Africa as in America and I am happy about that.” They clapped and were so warm and friendly.

Everyone greets each other after mass, just as in America. I found the parents of the newly baptized baby and requested to take their picture. They were delighted so we gathered by the altar and Fr. Casmere kindly stepped into the picture too. (See photo)

There was an “Alphabetisation” class being taught under a big tree near where the dolo bar was set up. Some villagers were learning mathematics. We walked past that to a fire where they cooked a dog, who had gotten the chickens. I tasted it and it was like the brown meat of chicken. It was good actually. We found the churchmen and priest in a nearby covered area so we could say Goodbye. They asked us to join them in their meal of arachide sauce over rice, with greens of onions on the side. Afterwards the priest offered to take four of us and our bikes in his mini truck back to Thyou to the marche'. The people in the bed of the truck were ducking every time we went under a tree on the path going back. Father stopped and gave two more women a ride too. No one got brushed out of the back.

After shopping a bit at the marche' and socializing with familiar friends, Georges' father, Harry invited me over to his family compound to meet his wife and Georges older sister, Elise, and her child. A longtime neighbor of theirs came over for a visit soon after we arrived. As we visited, his mother Veronique brought out benga (beans) with sauce. Like him, Georges family is very friendly and warm to people. I took a few pictures of them both inside their house and outside. Then Angie called me and Georges took a picture of me on the phone with her. Angie said her girls teachers want their classes to write to students in Africa as pen pals. When it was time to go home, I expressed my gratitude, and his family said they were delighted to meet me and I am welcome anytime.

25-02-08

On Monday I was anxious to go to CSPS as it had been awhile. There was not much going on, only a couple people there to be seen. Gansonre was working on statistics. He showed me the chart he made for Sala and the satellite villages for 2007. The maternite' brought the curve down for the area. The women in outlying areas, esp Sune and Zoa, don't often come in for delivery and then there are complications. An example in the maternite' recovery room today was a family who's baby had died at delivery.

In the late afternoon I was listening to Moore' on my MP3 player, and working on my chart of my quartier, when my teacher came for my daily lesson. He was sweating and no wonder—it was 105 degrees out. We rehearsed the dialogue in both languages and I read from the primer and we discussed verbs. The day was a quiet one all in all.

Tuesday was much the same, except that only Philippe and the two infirmier stagieres were at CSPS to handle things, a woman and young boy on IVs, and a new baby in maternite'. I visited. them and greeted their visitors. Then I decided to go to school and give out the alphabets and numbers I had for them. The headmaster and another teacher were gone to marche', but the four remaining teachers were delighted. I promised to return with more things later. After the repose (12-3pm) began I also went to the marche', got my favorite lunch, pork and local bread for sandwich. I met Georges and his father and uncle socializing near the barbecue place. As we came out of that area, we met three white French women staying in Sabou. In chatting with them, we shared that we were visiting the CREN (Centre Rehabilitation Enfants Nutrionelle) in Sabou on Wednesday. They expressed interest in that, so we made a date to take them along.

So the next day we met early to pedal to Sabou to the CREN. I stopped first to get a receipt from the taxi brousse driver for my last trip, so I could get reimbursed. The chauffeur wasn't understanding my French, and along came one of the Sala teachers, who helped me pose the question again to him. Voila!

In about an hour my tutor and I arrived at Sabou in time to find an omelette sandwich and Nescafe'. We went looking for Bintou's brother's restaurant “Zood Neere”, where I ate with her the day I moved to Sala. As we were talking to a man there, the three French women walked out of the boutique. They were lodging at this same complex. When they joined us out front, we all five rode to the Catholic Church together. We were invited in by Fr. Jacques via Georges connections with St Luc's parish. The priest served us grenadine water. Soon Sister Mary (from France) joined us and she would guide our visit to the CREN. As we exited the parish house into the courtyard, I thought this is a beautiful setting. (See pictures.) Georges shared with Fr. Jacques, who had baptized Jean Marc, of the death of his baby.

Sr. Mary drove the rest of us over to the new laboratory and hospital under construction south of Sabou . Sr. Margaret (from New York) another young nun joined us and translated for me as Sr. Mary gave us the tour. It is a grand design. In the octagon-shaped center of the new CREN is a courtyard where they are erecting a swing set, where they want to teach the parents how to play with their children. Housing for the parents is inside the CREN itself. We toured a number of the buildings where the laboratories will be. We returned to the Catholic Church, where the existing CREN is and toured that. It was overfilled with malnourished infants and their mothers. A number of the infants were twins, who often have difficulty surviving in this land. Mothers stay with babies stay in CREN on average 30 days until babies are gaining and mothers have been trained in nutrition. We saw the examination rooms, where they weigh and measure the babies. We went to another area where a staff was giving an enriched Brouille (porridge) and soup demonstration. There were over 50 mothers and many crying babies there. They each received a container of the brouille.

With the help of my tutor, I inquired about the mother and twins from Dayolo, whom Gansonre had sent here. They brought a woman and her twins to me, but it wasn't them. I asked if there was anyone from Sala here and they said not now. There were young interns working at the CREN, who knew Marco, a PCV from a village further south from mine.

We returned to the area of our bikes and toured St. Luc's church. Several catechists were conversing near the altar. Everyone is preparing for the pilgrimage next Sunday at the edge of the barrage in Thyou. All the Franciscan priests who live at this parish house will be there. We invited the French women to it, and they in turn invited us to tour the artists' studio and school adjacent to their chambres this afternoon. The art and fabric school would intrigue my children. I ordered a bag from them.

We found Dominique's son's place for lunch. His wife serves benga and mui (beans and rice) with pima (hot spice). We visited the marche' district of Sabou and visited there awhile.

It was late afternoon when we traveled back down the road to Thyou and Sabou, our homes.

28-02-08

Today is Thursday which means baby weighing at the maternite'. I stopped by the clinic first to talk about our tour of the old and new CREN yesterday in Sabou to Gilbert, the new nurse, Philippe, and the two interns, Kassoum and Alexis, who both put effort into communicating with me. I helped weigh 4-6 babies, who were there. Several pregnant women were there for prenatal visits too. When I went into the recovery room in the maternite', there was a woman there with no baby, but lots of family. Her baby died during birth.

By midday I went home and fixed a cheese sandwich and cut up a mango for lunch, then studied a while. I walked outside to visit with some of the women in my quartier and work on my map of it. Abdoulaye helped me some. After my language lesson in the late afternoon, we all played a couple games of Uno.

29-02-08 Leap Year

I spent time getting out some of my PC training materials on both KAP and Etude de Milieu and reviewed it. I need to prepare and decide how to study the health of the communities around Sala. Our In Service Training is in two weeks and I need to bring some of that info with me then.

When I got to the CSPS today, I watched what was happening, there was a flurry of patients for over an hour. The young RN trainees were handling things. I was to have an early language lesson today, but because an older respected woman died last night in Thyou, there was a big service Georges was leading the singing for, right after “Chemin de Croix” (stations of the cross). I took my neighbor girl Zanabou to the afternoon service at our church, and she was to meet up with Minata, her grandmother, afterwards at the home of the deceased.

When we got there there were cars arriving and lots of people around. I recognized women from church and from village. One woman offered to take us into the deceased woman's home, but about that time things started happening. People filled her yard until we were hemmed in. Gerard was finishing the coffin he had been working on all day. Family gathered around and some family brought her body out. One could hear Gerard tap the nails into the lid of the coffin. Our catechist Jean Baptiste began the Catholic burial service and Georges led the singing with drumming in the background. It went on over an hour in Moore'.

When darkness set in, the procession to the cemetery occurred. Across fields and paths, Georges led the chant and the people. At the graveside there was a fluorescent light strung up and then more prayers, drumming and singing. Georges led a solo and the choir responded with the chorus. It was elegant and moving. There were many songs and hymns. After a long graveside service, all the people walked back to the decedent's home. Georges found us and offered his flashlight to guide us there.

His brother Maxime and two other priests had been at a meeting in Sabou that day and stopped to briefly visit with Georges before he and the priests had to leave by car. Zanabou and I got a drink of water before we rode home. As we turned in for the night we could hear the music of the dancing that went on all night and is typical of most funeral celebrations in village, especially important people.

12-26-07 The Day I go to my Village, Sala!

After assuring my packing was done, I went to the Peace Corps Bureau and there in the lobby was Bintou smiling and chatting with Pierre, another language teacher. Idrissa, a PC transporter told me he was set to drive Bintou, me and my stuff, whenever I was ready. After a couple errands, drawing francs from la Poste, getting two royal blue plastic chairs from the corner boutique, and retrieving the last of my things from the Transit House, we were on our way south. The SUV was crammed, ie my foam mattress, my bike, and all the baggage, lipico and small table. I mentioned my propane tank before we were very far down the road, which resulted in stops in three places to complete the purchase. Turns out you have to have a used tank to trade in, when you want to buy one full of gas. Also I needed the connectors, so I could hook it all up to my gas stove top. I was happy to know I would be cooking soon.

We drove two hours south of the capitol to Sabou and stopped at a restaurant, “Zood Neere”, of a friend of Bintou's for a meal of spaghetti, barbecued chicken, and French bread with drinks. He wouldn't accept payment for the meal. Bintou referred to him as her brother, Lassane', because he lived with her family part of his youth. He was now a successful businessman, and had started several schools for educating local youth, improving lives where he could. Nearby were some interesting monkeys tied under trees. (See pictures.)

At Sala, we met the major's son, Zachariah, who showed us the path to Minata's house, my host land lady. Minata has 3 grown children, and 2 children at home, plus some grandchildren staying. She was very welcoming and happy to meet us. The infirmier (RN) Gansonre joined us presently, meanwhile many children were gathered out front, watching the unfolding activity. Everyone helped unload the SUV. My cute little place had a twin metal bed frame, and that was it! But for that I was thankful. Zachariah and Gansonre set about skinning 4 poles to make the bedposts latched on with rubber straps for the mosquito net. Then they put my tank and gas stove together. Voila!

My half of the duplex stucco house has a large room with a corner enclosed douche (shower) and a small adjoining room that was somewhat cooler, so I requested that the bed go in there under the window. The big room has three windows on the outside walls, so that a breeze comes through. The front porch/patio is cement and has a waist high wall surrounding it. (See picture.) We sat there afterwards talking to Abdulaye, Minata's 13 year old son, who speaks French, and is learning English from the PCV Garrett, in his school. He showed me to the boutique in Sala, and after Bintou borrowed a lantern from Minata, we played Crazy 8's until bedtime.

The next morning we texted Gansonre, who called back, saying he and the major (the head of the health clinic) were coming over in an hour. I showered and was showing Bintou my curtain material when we heard the car arrive. I ran into the bedroom to finish combing my hair. The major and RN had entered and Minata brought more chairs, soon we were meeting. Other visitors came by. The major says he likes either name, El Hadj (meaning he's been to Mecca). He sent someone over to see if we could meet the chief of the village, Ouedraogo, Adama. We all four walked across the field to some trees near the chef's compound, where benches were lined up for us. We waited a bit for him. I learned that he had accepted his position as cultural leader and chef, after his father died. When the chef (naaba) came he welcomed me and I recited my prepared statement to him. I was grateful that JZ had suggested I prepare it for meeting the chef. The chef assured me he was ready to aid me in any way possible. People came by to greet us.

In the afternoon the major drove Bintou and I to the next village Thyou, 2K away to their boutique and we were able to get many staples, foods and other items for setting up my home. The shopkeeper, Adama, was helpful as we made our purchases.(See picture.)

After I inquired about the location of the Catholic church, the major drove us to a huge hangar in a field, next to a place where the foundation for a new church had been poured. A Mass had just begun at that time and a woman came forward welcoming us to join as she led me to the front benches. Bintou and the major sat in the back area through the rest of the Mass. The priest greeted me warmly, as did some of the other parishioners. An older gentleman approached graciously as the major came and greeted him and the priest. Later Bintou remarked how much she respected the major for waiting while mass was on. She said that showed a respect and tolerance for other religions.

12-28-07

On Friday after we got ready for the day, we called about a ride to the Thyou marche' (market) and the major sent his son, Zachi' to drive us. He dropped us off for an hour to wander around the huge marche'. One hour because the major takes elder men to the mosque on Fridays by noon. I loaded up on plastics, a bucket, bowls, cups, and plates etc. We also found some vegetables. When we returned home, I took a nap while Bintou made us Riz Gras. A neighbor boy went to the local garden after tomatoes for us. I rode to the Sala boutique for tomato sauce. There I spoke to Kadre' (he was next door at the restaurant) about needing a tutor. After my nap we ate delicious Riz Gras. I studied several French lessons while Bintou napped. Then Bintou helped me correct my lesson.

We had planned that in the later afternoon Minata would show us to the garden. She was already there working, so Abdoulaye led me there. He and I rode our bikes, while Bintou and his friend walked. We went far on a rough path when we came to the barrage, a sort of lake. We walked past rows of tomatoes and squash before coming to where a man was working. After exchanging greetings, he showed me egg plants, and I bought 6 and then he gave me 6 more. On the return trip we saw two huge camion (trucks) pass by, loaded with wood poles headed for Ouaga for cooking fires.

I passed out candy (bonbons) to the children and mothers in the courtyard. They numbered in the dozens. In the evening we played cards, and Bintou showed me a game called “Witchcraft”. Pretty soon there was a knock at the door and there was Gansonre and Simpore', the education inspector to talk to me about my need for a tutor. It was a long conversation. He offered to find one who can attend meetings with me and tutor in conversation and pronunciation daily, etc. We made plans for visiting the CSPS clinic in the morning to meet everyone. I feel somewhat frustrated at the communication gap, and I'm sure the RN is impatient with it. Bintou asked them to speak slowly and be patient with me. We agreed to write things down and Gansonre agreed to help me. He wants Bintou to stay one month.

12-29-07

After a power bar breakfast, I was doing my exercises when Garrett (my closest PCV) knocked on the door. He was so welcome, and Bintou invited him to go with us to tour the clinic where I will be hanging out to learn the medical protocol here in Sala. We walked across a field to CSPS (clinic) and found the nurse dressing a small girl's leg wound, after which her father rode her back home on his bike. Gansonre, the nurse, gave us a tour of the clinic and the Maternite' in a separate building and the pharmacy, which has 60 drugs on hand. In this culture that is a lot. Gansonre mentioned the great need for sensibilization on health issues with the community, ie. immunization, malaria, and family planning. Those are things PC has trained us on doing. He told us that a woman delivered a baby last night in the Maternite' and there is another in labor now. We noted that the rooms for labor, delivery and recovery are pretty simple, without amenities.

We walked back to my house for lunch, and Garrett and I visited about my village and his, Thyou. He is in the secondary school there, teaching classes in mathematics and English. He said the education inspector advised him to use more English than French in his class to challenge the students more. Expectations of students are very high in this culture.

After an afternoon lesson of French pronouns, Bintou and I were invited to a welcoming and traditional dinner with the chef, the major, his elder brother, Gansonre, and other fonctionaires at the local Buvette, where they hold social functions. The meal consisted of cous cous and sauce, chicken and drinks. The major left at sundown for prayer, and Gansonre got called for the delivery at Maternite'. We hung out for a while chatting with those left.

12-30-07

Today I will remember as my first faux pas. We had some leftover rice that was going bad, so I threw it outside in the field for the chickens. Minata was hollering at me “Give it to the children!” Bintou added that one can't insult the children by feeding the chickens. Minata took the pan and scooped handfuls and gave to each child watching. She told me if it is on the ground the children will pick it up and eat it. She softened that by saying “The previous PCV did the same thing.” But I started worrying that the children would get sick, which to my knowledge did not occur.

The major transported me to church that Sunday morning and I was directed up front to a bench and between some older gentlemen. The outside hangar where this congregation gathers makes a strong first impression. The children were sitting on pole benches in front of us and facing the left side of the altar. The mass was done in the local Moore' language, the priest had written his sermon in Moore' as well. The vestments, chalices and holy books were removed from a nearby trunk. The lay minister had an active role in the service as did his wife, a lead vocalist together with the choral director, who led two choral groups from the right front of the church. Young men were drumming on their instruments accompanying the singing.

Near the end of mass, the lay minister was speaking to the people in Moore' when I heard “Nasaara” (white person). He was welcoming me to the church community. Soon he called the tall, handsome choral director up front to repeat the words in French for me. After which he asked if I wanted to say something and I expressed my thanks and that my language is pretty limited. I asked him to share with the people that I am here with the Peace Corps and hope to work with and for the people here. They heard him translate that to Moore' and applauded. I think I was turning a little pink by then. After mass many people warmly greeted me. I asked the choral director if he would write down what he said so I could share it with my French teacher, Bintou. As he was doing that I told him of my need for a French and Moore' tutor. He told me that he is a language teacher for both, so I asked him to consider it. He told me his name, Kiemtore', Georges.

When the major came back to pick me up from church, he said he knew Georges and that he is a good man. I was so excited about the prospect of finding a language teacher, that it felt like a gift from God. I came home to share my find with Bintou, who said Gansonre is also working on this. And she was wondering how this would all go.

In the afternoon Bintou started making Riz Gras again for dinner that evening as we had invited a number of people over. Garrett brought local made French bread from his village and he and I went down to the barrage gardens to get tomatoes for the sauce. About this time, Gerard stopped by. He is Minata's brother and a carpenter. He measured for my counter top and for my bookcase. Bintou was negotiating with him to make sure I got what I wanted. And he was teasing her about me giving her to him for a second wife. He said to her “the mother of the house can give away her children”. By the time Gerard was done, Gansonre arrived with two men, one was Isodore, PCV Garrett's Moore' teacher and the other was the choral director from church. Isadore said Georges has more time and can teach both French and Moore'. The people present started bartering the price and it went from 2 mil to 1 mil an hour for five days a week. The plan was to start tomorrow, which I then found out is when Bintou is leaving. She was pleased that everything worked out to everyone's satisfaction and my language tutor was selected before her departure.

By 6pm we were all eating the wonderful Riz Gras meal by lamplight. (See pictures.) I had her write me the recipe for later. After the guests left Bintou, Garrett and I reviewed the evening's events and were satisfied. Bintou and I played Crazy 8's and talked about how welcoming the people of Sala are. Bintou said “I would like to live in Sala, especially with the Muslim major being so tolerant of the Catholic religion.

The next morning Gerard came with sketches of the bookcase that he will make for me at the end of the month, as the cupboard is all I can afford for this month. Minata came over to visit at the same time. She was very encouraging, saying she will do everything for me for the asking. She offered her son, Abdulaye to help she and I communicate, as he is taking English in school and already knows French and Moore' (her language). Minata said not to worry about my things when I leave my house as she will watch over me and my things.

Bintou got a message from the Peace Corps to return to the capitol, Ouaga, on the taxi brousse the next day. She made arrangements for Gansonre to take her via his moto to Sabou in the late afternoon. We spent a couple hours shopping at the marche' in Thyou,where we met up with Garrett and he showed us where to get the good local French bread. One of the sellers was Marie, who I had met at the church and she was selling “dolo” made by the church women. The marche has a series of small hangars where the people sit on logs and chat while having “local biere”. It tasted very good, not bitter, and comes from millet that the women pulverize in the mortier (mortar). We enjoyed the local brew with a few others there.

When it was time for Bintou to leave later in the afternoon, we both got a bit teary and said how fun our week together had been. Gansonre showed up and away they went (see picture).

My new French teacher arrived at the same time and we began our lesson. He brought a French primer and the alphabet written out for me. He also articulated sounds for me and drew pictures. By the end of the hour lesson, the daylight had faded and it became difficult for me to see. We lit the kerosene lamp and agreed to switch our time to earlier for visibility. Then I sat outside awhile as the sky filled with stars. The neighbor kids came over and hung out too. Minata brought over rice and to', a staple of the BF diet, made from millet too.

Although I retired early on this New Year's Eve, the video going on full blast in Sala and some activity in Thyou, kept waking me up. Burkinabe' celebrate too on this date, although I only heard one firework!

The next morning I rode my bike to church for the service and greeted many of my new found friends there, the pretre (priest), the catechiste Jean Baptiste, his wife, Marie, and of course the choral director, (and my new language teacher) Georges. On my way back home, I found Garrett's house and paid him a visit. He was working on lesson plans for his class, which resumes Friday after the holiday break. He showed me several carpentry items he had built since he came to Thyou. As I continued my bike ride home, the RN came by on his moto and invited me to his home for dinner. We set a time and he pointed out his maison as the one with the antennae. When Abdulaye and I arrived we were served refreshments, drinks and hors-d'oeuvres, then a salad and the main meal, chicken with rice. We talked about family and work. Naturally I met his wife, Mimouna and little girl, Sheri. Gansonre asked to observe my French lesson. So in fact my teacher had stopped by while I was gone to dinner, but returned later with several friends, and we all went inside for my lesson. The visitors chuckled at my accent. Georges helped with my pronunciation and after a brief time everyone left. We set a time to go to the clinic the following morning.

I got a call from my family and learned about their recent time at the coast for the holiday gathering during a winter storm. The grandchildren enjoyed extended time together, and sharing the new baby in the family, Cash Patrick Landis. Heather recapped her trip to Cancun for Xmas.

02-01-08

After a morning Fr lesson, my tutor and I went to the CSPS village clinic, where the major was seeing patients. We observed briefly, when the nurse told me the midwife was returning tomorrow from her holiday break. In the afternoon I sat outside where the women were conversing in Moore' and the girls were working on each other's hair. They were taking braids out, combing hair in preparation for washing it. They use small bands and long strands of plastic cording to augment their plaits.

Abdulaye's older brother, Madi, was home on a visit and came over after dinner and we all worked on my French. Madi reviewed my written work and we practiced a few sentences together. It was fun. Their uncle Issaka came over for tea and conversation.

The next morning Minata and I walked to the maison behind ours to greet her sister-in-law. We also watched a young man pour clay into brick forms nearby. Youngsters were stacking dried bricks, others were carrying water to the mound where he was making the clay consistency to his liking. Interesting process and everyone helps out.

At my French lesson, I learned from my teacher that his wife and nine month old baby have been sick since Christmas and are staying in Koudougou with relatives for proximity to medical care. The baby has had diarrhea. He said his two daughters are in primary and secondary school and home with him in the next village. He bikes the 40 K to visit the wife and baby on the weekends. I told him that I plan to go there for the internet also on the weekend, but I will get transport from the main road, at Sabou,15 K away.

On Friday when I went to the CSPS in the morning, I copied the Sala map indicating the nine satellite villages also served by this clinic. Mostly the outlying people come in to the clinic, but there is also outreach, where medical staff go to the small villages for vaccinations, etc. Always when I arrive at the clinic the major stops what he is doing to greet me. The nurse showed me the population statistics and other data he collects for the clinic as part of the health ministry for BF. The accoucheuse had returned but was gone to a small village to give prenatal care.

My afternoons are generally at home, market or visiting. This day I joined a group of women outside talking. Salimata engaged me with names of everyone and some Moore' words. It is obvious they want me to know their language. While a number of men speak French, the women only speak Moore', a very tonal language with nasal and rhythmic sounds abounding. Again the neighbor girls were doing hair. Salimata did mine. The African females use extensions in the hair and all kinds of decoration. I have noticed all variations of black, brown and weaves done, plus all designs of rows of braids (some extremely artistic on the head). Like in America there are a few people who sport unusual colors, red, orange, purple extensions too.

After my French lesson this day, I invited my teacher to accompany me to meet the accoucheuse. Part of the deal I made when we hired him, was that he would go to meetings and other things where I could use some help communicating. The RN came with us to her house. Pierrette has magnificent dimples and a ready smile. It is delightful to know there is a female presence amongst the medical staff. Gansonre told me he is beginning to understand my accent, as we spent time articulating some French words.

On Saturday I strapped my overnight bag onto my bike and took off for Sabou, where I would catch a taxi brousse over to Koudougou, the main town in my region. It was quiet as the sun came up and the birds flew around. The landscape is dry ground with deciduous trees in a thin forest. There was an occasional biker, moto or truck on the road, but mostly it was me and the African morning.

The older guy that drove the mini truck across the 40K was careful. I noted the drop off point in town so I could find it in two days for the return trip. I made my way to the mission, got a room and took a nap. I text my friend, Achille and we met for dinner at a conference center. We agreed to meet the next morning for mass at the cathedral in town.

When we arrived at church the first mass was still going, so we waited outside for it to finish. My French teacher exited the church, and came over to chat with us. We discovered that the next mass was in an hour, so Georges invited us to come meet his wife and baby about 1K away from church. It was obvious they had been sick. I noticed the baby had difficulty breathing and had weeping behind the ears, much like my son did as a baby.

After the French mass with singing that was awesome, esp the trilling that women occasionally do during a hymn, we rode over to the Achille's family home to meet them. His father, Maxime is old and has a disease of the nerve and muscle system, which is wasting his body away. His legs are like toothpicks as he lay on the chaise during our visit. We went next door where his older brother's family lives, and visited. Seraphin does silk screening on tee shirts, using the computer to generate the picture, and this is how he advertises his sign company business. Achille works for him. When we returned to Achille's family home, his mother, Cecile had made rice and sauce for us. It was an enjoyable time together, and we planned that Achille would come to Sala in a month and visit me.

I worked on my blog that night and the next morning. At the dining room, I met a French couple who had ferried across from Gibraltar on the Mediterranean, and drove across West Africa (French) on their way to Ghana. They patiently listened to me and my French. They told me Obama won in Iowa, and that they like Hiliary. They were "comme ci, comme ca" about their new president..

Finally I went to the internet to post my blog and head for the return transport home to Sala, a memorable ride to be sure! The young driver hot wired the car for starters, then stopped a short distance out of town I assumed to pick up a passenger (a man with an obvious flat bike tire wanting a lift), but-- no the driver got out, took off the radiator cap, fetched the water can to fill the radiator, threw the cap onto the dash, and away we went, leaving the hitchhiker in the dust. He repeated this exercise a couple more times too. He drove so fast over the washboard road that we were only a big ball of red dust moving along and got there in 30 minutes. I was glad I had my book in my backpack, as it served as a diversion because I couldn't bear to look out the front window. I biked back from Sabou to Sala.

On return from an errand to the boutique in village, I noticed the chef sitting at the cabaret out back of the buvette. I sat and chatted with him a bit, as we drank a beer. He called his son and granddaughter to interpret a time or two, but he speaks a few words of English and a fair amount of French, so it was not bad. A happy, thin man I guess to be 60ish.

09-01-08

This morning I went to the clinic early, and the major had me sit in on a couple consultations. He took blood pressure readings and temperatures of a several people, then spoke to them in Moore' getting their first hand account of the problem, then he wrote out a prescription to be filled by the pharmacist, Adama. The patients return with Rx in hand as their medical practitioner explains how they are to take it. I could understand the Moore' beoogo (morning) windga (afternoon) and zaabre (evening) as he said it, meaning 3x day. The major had me take notes for the schedule of monthly vaccination visits to the satellite villages, where I can ride my bike to the nearer ones four of the days next week.

In the maternite' building was a mother, new baby and her family. Meanwhile at the clinic Gansonre started an IV drip on a little thin boy. He added vitamins and nutrients along with antibiotics to the IV. The child's father cleaned him up when he vomited. The drip takes a couple hours.

I asked to visit the primary school in Sala, and Gansonre accompanied me there to meet the headmaster and the six teachers. One class, a large first grade was sitting outside under a hangar. The teacher has a branch in hand, more as a threat I suppose to control the over sized class just beginning their formal education. Garrett told me later that they are not allowed to do that after the first couple grades. The other outdoor class was the second grade and I was happy to see they use the same French primer I have. As we visited each class, I spoke in my limited way. The class and I practiced “Bonjour classe! Ca va? Bien.” (Good morning, how are you? I am fine.) The director had my neighbor kids raise their hands, so I could pick them out easier. I promised to return in a few weeks with some supplies from America.

That day when my language teacher came, he expressed that he really wants me to learn Moore', which I have resisted until I get better at French. We went over the sentences I wrote, and I read two lessons from my primer. We laughed about my return taxi brousse ride from Kdg, and I told him about the vaccination schedule. He wanted to accompany me, but I told him I couldn't pay for the travel time, and would defer that question to my supervisor, Dr. Claude. He kept saying “Pas de proble'me!” Georges told me he saw the accoucheuse in Kdg, and called her the matron of CSPS. Georges said he hopes to go back to Koudougou in two weeks to bring his family home.

The major was seeing patients the next morning, which is when I typically hang out at the clinic. There was a child on an IV drip, and an older woman came in mentally out of it. The major told me that the malaria (palu) does that to some people. Next he saw a woman who had her face covered with her pagne, because the sunlight hurt her eyes. The major got out a book about medical problems and treatment and confirmed “Lesion Ouverte” (eye) and wrote her a Rx. Next a young girl and her dad followed the major over to the maternite' where the gas run refrigerator is located, to get her a tetanus shot, because her foot injury was caused when she had stepped on something.

In the spirit of continuing to meet the local important people, Gansonre and I walked over and met the Forestry Coordinator, Mohammed and later the permit supervisor, Urbain. When we returned the midwife was doing 2007 stats, and let me know that the baby weighing happens every Thursday. I assured her I would be here tomorrow for that.

On this marche' day, I bought barbecued pork and sat down on a log to make my sandwich with my small leatherman knife to slice the French bread and remove fat from the meat. A crowd started gathering interested in watching me make a sandwich. After this self initiated demo, I got up, sandwich in hand and ate on the move. After a few produce purchases, I found Marie and we went for a calabasse of dolo. In BF the socializing happens all the time, catching up on the news etc, but one of the main social venues is the marche' and the locals gather to chat over the local beer.

After my lesson, Abdulaye came over to play cards until it was dark. When a bat flew in through my front door, he knew immediately what it was. That proved helpful later that night when one flew in through the rafters. I had my screen door to my bedroom open, so in it came. Bats flutter and fly fast. I knew that it had perfect vision in the dark and that I didn't, so I decided to cover up until the bat found it's way back out. It wasn't long and silence reigned. A good reminder to close my bedroom screen door at night.

11-01-08

I spent most of the morning with the accoucheuse Pierrette weighing babies. She sent one baby over to the clinic to be checked by Gansonre, who said the four month old baby has pneumonia. They live 8 K away in the petite village Salo, so the mom would return tomorrow with the money for the prescription. The RN said that is the reality here. There was another child on IV for malaria, all others from yesterday had gone home after their drips finished.

In the afternoon I went home and hemmed my kitchen curtain. Becky text me that I have a lot of mail at the bureau. I am so waiting for batteries, I'm nearly out. Then I heard that they may be removed as an item on the Haz Met security list by Customs.

12-01-08

The major had gone to the district health office, so Gansonre was very busy caring for patients. He was treating two people with malaria in the lobby area where five cots serve as hospital beds. He had several more walk ins. The nurse told me the chef of the village was very sick. Gansonre said he went to his home last night to care for him. He took me with him at noon to go look in on the chef again. He changed his IV, adding a number of meds to it, antibiotics, vitamins, and hydrocortisone. The next day the chef was at the clinic for a booster IV. This is the time of year for the more serious illnesses for everyone.

On Saturday I went to the clinic to see how busy they are on the weekends there. Two people were on IV drips. A family was there with food eating and chatting with their older patient. A small boy returned for a checkup with bumps all over his skin, dermatitis rash from the medicine he received in the IV drip earlier that week perhaps. He checked a woman who was in danger of miscarriage and gave her an injection. Another couple came in for pregnancy test that proved positive. I don't know what that conversation was like, due to my language. It was a busy morning at the clinic.

Soon a group of us from the CSPS went to the home of the treasurer of the COGES (health board) to pay condolences because his wife died Thursday. All the houses/huts had many men sitting together at this important family time. There are typical Moore' words to express sympathy that were said.

In the late afternoon, I sat out front of the boutique in Thyou and chatted with a young nurse, who is from a petite village 7K west of there. He expressed his philosophy of the difficulty the people of Burkina Faso experience rising above poverty. He likened the cycle of the big old tree across the road there, to that of the animals and the people. Everything struggles and the influences are sometimes unseen and unpredictable. Interesting!

That day Abdolaye washed my dirt red bike and the white and turquoise reappeared. Belle velo! I finished my second book, “Looking for Lovedu” by Ann Jones, a gifted witty writer. She describes a road trip across the length and breadth of Africa from Morocco to Capetown.

On Sunday I learned first hand how the congregation at church manages when there is no priest. Church leaders surface and lead the people in prayer, song, readings, the rosary, etc. On my bike ride home from there, I came upon two girls who didn't hear me behind them due to the oncoming transport. I hit the brakes and went down, scraping one knee. That took the wind out of my sails for awhile, but wasn't serious. There is a Moore' greeting “Laafi Bala”, everything is OK, things could always be worse.

That day I decided to map out my compound (quartier) so I could get a handle on where all my neighbors live and organize a way of remembering names and faces. Abdoulaye walked with me in the two big quartiers, each with 8-10 huts/dwellings. There are many children per compound. And we have a rough draft now.

When Chris and Shelly called me that evening, Tabor talked to gramma for a couple minutes on the phone, and “showed me his box” in his hand. I remember this stage in the two year old's life. My sisters phoned the same day, having figured out how to make a phone card work all the way to Africa. What a treat to hear from loved ones!

Vaccination Week 14-01-08 to 20-01-08

Every month a nurse and second person go to the smaller, surrounding villages to give immunizations. I made a dry run to Zao on Monday, because I was confused by the configuration of the African calendar, which leads with Monday. I was met by some friendly local villagers, who said I was 3 days early. We chuckled about that. They took me over to the primary school to meet the staff and children, so the trip was productive. On Wednesday I went to Salo (8K away) with with my French teacher and Gilbert, the nurse for the vaccinations to be given out. It all took place under a big tree near the marche'. The RN commenced TB injections with the pregnant women, and then onto the infant immunizations in the premiere year. I saw the young mom and 4 month old infant with pneumonia I had seen at the clinic last week. The baby was recovering nicely. She had let others know I was coming there.

On this trip we also visited the school, whose headmaster was a friend of Georges. Again I spoke to the classes of students in my own way and promised to return.

On the correct date, I with my language teacher returned to Zao for their vaccination day. The same friendly people found us right away. (See picture.) Soon the major, his head wrapped in his checkered scarf, arrived on his moto, happy to see us there. Then the women started arriving, some pregnant for shots and some with babies for shots. This lasted through late morning and again in the early afternoon. Two local villagers typically help the major with the process. We had lunch at the marche'.

On the return trip home as we neared my village, we heard chanting and dancing. There was a marriage feast going on. We stopped to watch for awhile, and the people are always excited when we show interest in their activities.

On Friday I biked 15K to Dana and another 2K to Dayolo, and repeated the same vaccination program as in the other villages. Gilbert was the RN today set up at a table in the simple marche' there. Again two local villagers helped out. The young woman Delphine liked my Timex watch. I let her know the young man at the station where I charge my cellular phone wants it too, and I told him he has to wait two years.

After an hour we traveled back to Dana where the bigger population is and spent several hours there. Pregnant women, babies all got attention. But some folks were told they were either too early or too late, after their paperwork was checked. The two helpers chatted with me over lunch that day.

Usually in the evening Abdulaye comes over to play cards, and he often trounces me, then laughs wildly. This night after we played awhile, I received a visit from Georges' younger brother who was in town briefly from the seminary where he is in training to become a priest. He lives in Fara now on assignment until he goes to Bobo for two years of theology and philosophy. He also is extremely polite, friendly and handsome. Plus he speaks English, Dutch, Moore' and French well. It is obvious his brother has told him about his new American language student. As Maxime leaves he wishes me “Wend na Kond Nidaare!” God be with you until next time.

On Sunday I was to go to a village Bolo, on an ill-defined dirt path behind the barrage 8K away. I realized that I could easily get lost so I asked locals some questions, but they spoke yet another tribal language and we weren't having any luck. Except to say that one old man was demonstrating his aching back, and I can get the language for arthritis! So I turned around to head back to my house to get Abdulaye for a guide, but about that time a man who did understand sent a 10 year old boy to lead me to Bolo. En route we passed a field of huge boulders that were thousands of years old. Trees grow up out of some of the crevices. (See picture.)

The major had gone to a smaller village beyond Bolo, and soon after I arrived he came motoing in with his checkered scarf and sunglasses on. He carried the cooler of immunization meds and his briefcase with the medical logs too. We set up under a hangar, me sitting in a reed chair the villagers brought, and the major on an antler shaped old section of a tree, shiny from wear, which made a great perch. The people came for an hour or so for injections. After we ate some fried arachide (peanut) dough balls, I asked the major for another guide. An older gentleman was going my way and my speed, so I was pleased to follow him.

That concluded my first week doing the vaccination program.

01-21-08

I went to the maternite' this morning to see if the women who were given prenatal slips at the satellite villages would show up there today for prenatal visits. Sure enough a couple young women from Salo came, including the young mother who had her baby in for pneumonia last week. Now her baby has diarrhea. The grandmother was along too and they wanted me to try their clabbered milk, which tasted like yogurt. I hung out at the prenatal visits a couple hours while the women waited their turn to be seen by the accoucheuse, take their prescription to the pharmacy, and return so the midwife could explain the dosage and schedule for taking Rx, and then they were on their way back home.

It was market day, so I went there to get vegetables, bread and barbecued pork for sandwiches. After several other errands and visiting with friends from church, I headed home. The neighbor kid and I listened to the African Soccer game on the radio and Cote d'Ivoire won 1-0 over Nigeria. It was exciting and even tho the Burkinabe' aren't playing, they have a keen interest in who wins. Many of the men from the village go to Cote d'Ivoire, where there is work.

The next day I straightened my home as I was expecting company, Stephanie S. from Gao. She was riding up to my maison when I was ready to go over to the clinic. We visited a bit, then went to CSPS to renew her friendship with the major, who was so glad to see her. Gansonre and the major started talking about the Meningitis Campaign that was starting Wednesday to Sunday for this disease. They will have three teams to vaccinate. They put me on the Sala team for Wed and Thursday. Midday they had a meeting with all the helpers. After that Stephanie met Garrett at my house and we made lunch, tuna sandwiches and marinated cucumbers. We sat around the house in the afternoon, visiting. At 4pm my tutor came for my lesson, and Stephanie chatted with Georges in Moore'. At 5pm she went down to the roadside to wait for taxi brousse, which didn't come for several more hours. After my lesson, we joined Stephanie as she waited for her ride. We talked about her trip home for the holidays and Marcos's Early Termination,because his gramma is ill.

Stephanie, who is a second year PCV suggested that I let the COGES know what I want and to keep trying French with them and to have them write things down. She noted that understanding will come as I am practiced with using the proper words to convey my intent to my listener.

We finished the day off with listening to a soccer game between Egypt and Cameroon. played cards and it was so hard for Abdulaye to loose. He can give the evil eye to me, then we laugh.

01-23-08

The Meningitis Campaign starts this day, and when I arrived at CSPS in village, they were set up under the big tree in front. The major, the accoucheuse, two women marking the tally and opening the needle pkgs, two men for crowd control, plus there was the primary teachers with their classes in lines. Both lines were almost out to the street. (See pictures.) I sat down to help record, but soon decided I would rather help at the front of the lines with securing arms and sleeves, etc. The target population was ages two to thirty, so we questioned ages and pregnancy of people. Some folks had their WHO health cards, which would show us their ages. The major and accoucheuse mixed the 3 strand meningitis vaccine with sterile water and then gave a quick shot per person. This assembly line worked well. National officials came by during the day briefly to check the status of the campaign.

One of the nurses returned from a small village where he gave the meningitis vaccinations. He was making a chart to outline the day's data. I shared with him that when I read the meningitis information brochure, I comprehended most of it, but when he talked to all of us helping the day before, I did not understand. So written French is a good option for me at this time. I only had a short list of medical vocabulary words to look up. By early afternoon (2pm) the first campaign day was over and it was satisfying to think of how many people would be protected from the disease that had taken three local lives last year.

01-24-08

My propane tank is empty! So Minata boiled my coffee water on her open fire in her cuisine. I wore my athletic shoes for my foot comfort today. When I got to the clinic at 8am they were already starting the meningitis vaccinations with the few people in line, but they kept streaming in steadily, many from the next village Thyou. I talked with the major about my propane, and he said “Pas de probleme!” and sent his son later that day to pick up my tank, drive the moto to Sabou and get me a full one. All of those were things I would be hard pressed to do on my own.

When I went to the marche' in the afternoon, I found people from my church there, Marie and her husband Basile, who will come to my house tomorrow for a visit, my French teacher who was talking to his brother, Cyrille, and Gerard, my carpenter, who gave me an update on my bookshelf. Many people inquired about the meningitis vaccinations, as info travels amazingly fast by word of mouth in village. We moved to another dolo place, and there Georges introduced me to his father, Harry. I told him what a great language teacher his son is, and his broad smile told me he was proud.

After my French lesson that afternoon, we played cards with Abdulaye, and he won today!

01-25-08

This morning I decided to French braid my hair after my bath. I know it will take practice, so why not begin? I called the bureau to have my mail and prescriptions brought when Dr. Jean Luc comes for the medical visit next Monday. I talked with the country director who asked me how things were going at site and did I like it. She observed that if I am helping with vaccinations then I am doing well. Marily's term is over next month, so I thanked her for her help behind the scenes with my placement in Burkina Faso, which I know she had a hand in.

When I showed up at the CSPS,the major was seeing a few patients, and said I could watch. He said he was happy to look through the National Geographic with the stories on open heart surgery, even though it wasn't in French. One old crippled woman arrived on the back of the bicycle of her two grandchildren. She had a bad cough and the major wanted her to come to the injection room for an antibiotic shot. I took her hand and guided her into the room. She walked on two very distorted legs. That made her seem very short, about to my waist. She exited the same way.

There was young man about 30 sitting in the waiting room with his hand swollen twice its normal size, and he was in severe pain. The two puncture wounds in his thumb suggested to me something had penetrated it. The major said “No, It is Panaris, infection du ponce.” He put on sterile gloves and injected lidocaine into the thumb area, as the man moaned in agony. The injection fluid oozed out of the punctures, and then the major took a razor and cut between the two points, splaying the thumb. He put the ruby benodine on gauze to dress the wound and then wrapped the entire hand. The man got a big shot of antibiotic and some pain pills, before his friend rode him home on a moto.

After my French lesson, we listened to the soccer game on the radio (Cote d' Ivoire-4, Togo-1) and ate sandwiches. Georges asked for an advance for his Koudougou trip to see his wife and baby on the weekend. Abdulaye and I played his card game twice and I went to bed early as my knee hurt, and besides tomorrow my friend Achille comes and I want to be rested.

I did my knee exercises in the morning to strengthen them. Achille texted me that he was en route, but he didn't arrive until afternoon because his motobike broke down and he got parts at the ville on the way. Then he texted again when he got to Sala, and I went to meet him at the boutique, a point of reference in all the small villages. He was happy to have arrived after his 40K trip from Koudougou, evidenced by his smiling face. We went to my place, and I introduced him to everyone, before we went on a tour of the barrage and gardens, with Abdulaye as our guide. He hung out with us all day. We visited a lower area of the reservoire filled with crocodiles and birds, before getting to the far side and Minata's garden. There were many crates of bright red tomatoes harvested for transport to Cote d'Ivoire. (See pictures.)

I took Achille to the clinic to meet the major and Gansonre. The major talked to him about the mosque in KDG next to where Achille works. And he checked out the family name, Nana, for common friends, etc. Gansonre invited us to his home to watch football, Egypt vs Sudan tonight. This soccer competition is a national obsession, esp as it nears the finals.

After practicing the Riz Gras recipe Bintou left me, we had dinner. C'est Bon! We walked to Gansonre's house and there were three of the major's sons there too watching the match, Zacharias, Abdulaye and Saidou, who runs a boutique in Thyou. It was fun, and Egypt won. With no moon out, we walked home in the pitch black darkness. There is a phenomenon about how the Africans see in this blackness, which my western eyes don't come close to. Achille slept in the main room on the lipico, with a pagne and small pillow, which he was fine with. It was so good to spend time with him. His family had asked after me, and were happy for him to visit me. Everyone he met in Sala loved talking to Achille, he is so respectful. He observed that the health job in Africa is very important, and he too wanted a meningitis vaccination if possible.

27-01-08

I rallied around 7am, made coffee and introduced Achille to peanut butter and banana sandwiches for breakfast. We visited the clinic this morning where many people were and also the maternite', where Gansonre was making another village map. He needed green color to highlight the barrages, and I was able to give him crayons from my resource box. After awhile we went home to play “Uno” with four of us. This game works so well here, as there is no language involved, it's all symbols. Since it was marche' day in Thyou, we visited that before Achille filled his moto with gas and headed back to Koudougou.

I found my friends Marie and Basile at the marche'. They are coming for lunch later this week and to play Uno. After I got home and relaxed, the major came by with a man, who is the husband of Mariam, the schoolteacher in Zao. While we visited some, I showed the major my foulard that I bought to cover my head when I go to mosque with him Friday midday. I also got out the Koran I am reading, and the major read the cover which is in Arabic straight away. He inquired about the PC doctor visit I am scheduled for tomorrow in village. I assured him I would bring Dr. Luc to the clinic.

I spoke to my kids in Seattle, with news they were sick this winter and the baby ended up needing oxygen, so they all spent a few days at the Children's Hospital. Jodi says Cash weighs 15 lbs and is in 90% for height. I would be far more lonesome without cell phones and email!

28-01-08

The major sent Adama, the pharmacist to fetch me to watch as another patient with a swollen hand was there for treatment. Gilbert, the RN was redressing the man's wound with benodine and advised him to return in 3 days to remove his stitches. It was exciting that I was invited over.

The driver brought PC Dr. Jean Luc around 10 that morning for my medical site visit and we had tea and sat and chatted while he completed a questionnaire. He asked me questions about my health both physical and mental, about my diet and safety, about available resources, water, latrine, and douche. He inquired about how I liked my placement and how it was going here. He had moved his family here from Cameroon and they too have faced adjustment challenges. When I surfaced the issue about not getting batteries from America, he pondered whether batteries were on a Hazmet list at the customs point. He offered to get some in Ouaga and send them to me by bush taxi.

Soon we went to the CSPS and met with the major. They got along famously. Dr. Luc was very impressed with the pharmacy there, which has over 60 medications on hand, compared to his 12 when he was in Cameroon. Dr. Luc agreed with me that language is an issue, but my major says I will speak it well soon.

Later in the day I had no language lesson, so I invited Zanabou,10, over to read some French from my primer. She is so ripe for learning. Zanabou is a granddaughter to Minata and there is no money to send her to school. Then Abdulaye and I listened to a football game- Ghana 2- Morocco-0.

29-01-08

The clinic was slow this morning, so I walked across the dirt road out front to the boutique for a couple things. Then I visited the two ladies who sell food in little places on the opposite side of the road. La femme let me taste “kor” (potatoe), I liked it, so got one, added oil and salt. It was tasty. Next to her the other woman was preparing vegetables and meat in a broth over the open fire in a big round kettle.

When I returned to my house to study, Garrett came over and we enjoyed some stories his students had written. One was titled “Who killed the teacher?” and the other was “Who stole the chef's crown?” They were witty and fun. I can tell his class enjoys his teaching style and ideas for them. Garrett says he will go to Ouaga next Monday so he took my language bills to turn in, plus he will get my boxes. that came in the mail. Angie called me in the afternoon and we talked about lots of things, Cash being in the hospital a few days with his parents by his side, the boxes Lorraine and Sally are getting ready, my diet, esp protein, and I had received a small check from consignment furniture store.

Today I started reading “Kite Runner”. Later in the afternoon my language teacher Georges arrived and we studied French and Moore'. As I boiled cabbage, carrots, onions and potatoe with a little Lipton's soup mix, we also listened to the football game, Nigeria-2 , Benin-0. Abdulaye came over and ate too, then we three played a very long game of Uno.

30-01-08

My upset stomach of two days showed itself, I ran out to the latrine. When I got to the clinic this morning it was not very busy. However the major El Hadj was treating my neighbor, Issaka, who was home from Cote d'Ivoire, for palu and he was on an IV. I was so surprised by that, esp since he was back home noon and looking fine. When I was chatting with the major he told me that the fruit at the marche' goes very quickly in the morning. That sure explains why by the time I usually go it is afternoon and there is no fruit I visited with Gansonre who was still busy doing statistics for his upcoming meeting at the district

That afternoon when I got to the marche', Marie found me and took me around to buy bread, potatoe and lettuce and pork. Because the pork was sold out at the churches booth, I looked for another source, which wasn't as good, but at least we could make a sandwich for lunch. We wandered over to the churches dolo bar and Mary, Jean Baptiste's wife, bought me local beer. Georges was there and soon a vendor selling guinea birds was convincing him he needed two of them. They are stiff and skinned, ready to cook.

I had my French lesson in the late afternoon and fried the guinea bird after George cut it up. I made Alfredo pasta to go with the bird. Again we played Uno with Abdulaye. He is getting so good at the game, he is starting to cheat. We all laugh a lot together. I paid Georges 20 mil for my first month of lessons.

31-01-08

On this day when I got to the CSPS the accoucheuse was gone to KDG, so no baby weighing today. The major was consulting with a woman who had a temperature and a cough. He listened to her lungs and treated her for pneumonia. Gilbert, an assistant prepared the IV drip, setting aside his perusal of the newsheet I suspect regarding the soccer games. More women tried to talk with me and it makes it clear there is a place for me here, if only I could speak Moore'..

I prepared some food ahead of time for my company today, Basile and Marie, who are coming for lunch and to play Uno. They arrived around 1:30pm and then I discovered Basile has a sister, Sampoko, in my quartier. Basile and I read my French primer for a bit, as he is encouraging my learning of the language. Then I finished preparing the tomato sandwiches and we ate lunch. As we waited for their friend and mine, Georges to arrive, Abdulaye came from next door to play his card game with us. Soon I heard a moto pull up and there was Georges and his brother, Maxime, who entered with apologies for lateness. Maxime was home from seminary for a brief family visit.

The six of us started playing Uno, which lasted for two hours and they all loved it. Basile became savvy enough to try to sneak a peak at my hand and we all had a big laugh over that. This Uno game works well here because it is all symbols and no language.

At 4pm and after the guests departed my French lesson happened as usual. I turned in early that night after getting things together for a weekend in Koudougou at the mission and to visit the internet.

12-03-07

Syr, the transporter, had gone to several trainees host homes to pick up their luggage, because the other five trainees were biking to OHG, and couldn't carry everything as they moved out of Somyaga. Then he came after me, and all my belongings. The SUV was loaded to the brim. By the time we arrived at ECLA the tech class was half over. The technical training was on the “bridge to post”, meaning from here (training) to there (our placement).

In the late morning, we were each scheduled to be interviewed by Thierry, the PC training program director. When it was my turn I brought my program evaluation on the classes and teachers, but it wasn't done and he just said OK. Then he started giving me my evaluation, which took me by surprise. He said I did excellent in everything, but in language I am not at the mid-intermediate level yet (one step below). He went on to say that the staff had made a recommendation and the Country Director agreed that I could be sworn in with everyone else on Friday.

I started crying! I had prepared myself that I would swear in after I reached level, but “Oh my!” I signed my evaluation and left. As soon as I saw Linda, I cried again. Then I saw the other trainees from my village and yes, I cried again. They all hugged me and said they knew I would get to be in the ceremony Friday, to which I replied “I didn't know that.” They said I was the only one who didn't know it then. They added everyone knows it isn't from lack of effort! I went to my room and had a big cry. Dr. Claude called me on the phone and asked to see me. When I sat down with her she said Thierry spoke to her, and I recapped the meeting for her. She wisely asked me “Were they tears of joy or sadness?”

In the afternoon session Dr. Claude met with all of the health sector and gave us her expectations for the first three months in village along with the forms for quarterly reports, etc.

I was on the phone with Angie at dusk by the front gate, when my host family sisters all showed up from their boarding school in OHG to my training center, ECLA. We walked across the street to the tailor for a fitting of my swear-in dress. The teen sisters loved the two piece turquoise and white dress with a pintade pattern. It needs some altering but I am happy with it, especially the neckline of hand stitched pintades.

12-04-07

The first block was language with JZ and after introductory sentences were exchanged, we did Passe' Compose' (past tense verbs). Then we studied reflexive. In French they add a word before the verb to show it is an action the person took themselves.

The next session was led by the Administrative Officer, Sheila, who explained how we would be paid, get a checking account, moving-in money, etc. She also talked about the logistics of the move next Friday to villages.

In the afternoon Dr. Jean Luc gave a session on medical information every volunteer must know for their own personal health. We retook a test and self corrected it as a group.

That was followed by a class Marily, the Country Director herself led on the PCV handbook with all the do's and don't (s). The cold sodas she distributed helped that all go down easier. There are really three big rules you get sent home for breaking: 1) riding a motorbike without clearance 2) not wearing a helmet when riding your bicycle and 3) leaving the country without permission. Another obvious thing is to stay neutral on politics.

Marily spoke to Melissa and me after class about her consent that we would get to swear in Friday with everyone else. We will be given a test after another week of French and that will determine when we each go to our village. Her parting advise was to practice speaking in French as much as possible.

12-05-07

We had a vaccination campaign in the village of Kitou, a bit north of the turnoff for Somyaga. When Syr drove the six of us there, Jean Francais was already there with another RN plus his assistant. Women with infants were lined up in the village center under a tree getting shots. A short time later we all walked aways to the primary school, where two classes with their teachers and the principal came out. I identified with the tall professional female teacher, who was dressed in BF dress and heels for her job, located in the country with red earth everywhere.

One trainee wrote the date and type of vaccination on the yellow card. I put myself next to the children, helping them with sleeves, etc. When the child cries or winces about the shots, the adults scold them, everyone parents the children here. We took a couple pictures of the group of us. (See photos.) Then we walked to the village marche', where I found a dust mask made of fabric, which I really wanted.

I walked across the street from ECLA to the tailor's and picked up my dress, fit very nicely by the lady tailor. I found turquoise flip flops to match. After an afternoon of language class, we all were very excited that our tee shirts had arrived, artwork done by the two art majors in our group of stagierres.

The next day at French class, JZ and I reviewed the two exercises using “Qu' est ce que” and “Est-ce que”. They are two forms of starting a sentence that is a question in French. He let me off for the afternoon to study privately and also get packed for two days in Ouaga for the swearing in ceremony, which is Friday. The second day is set aside for shopping for large items we need to ship to our village sites, when our big luggage goes there in a week or so.

12-07-07 Swearing In Day to become Peace Corps Volunteers

As we pulled away from OHG, our training center for the past two months and headed for the big event in Ouaga, we 34 trainees were all very excited, reflected by the noise level. I was tapped on the shoulder next to where my MP3 player was in my ear, to a comment “We asked the bus driver to turn down the radio and now we hear you singing!” to which everyone started laughing around me.

After the two hour ride we hailed a taxi and went to the Nazemse hotel, nice but simple. We paired up for rooms and went to lunch. Becky and I went to the post office, which doubles for a bank. I got to watch as Becky wrote a check for the moving-in allowance PC set up for us. The PO is on a big main route in the capitol, and in front are lots of little boutiques. There I found wood carved-an African mask for Luke and a petite family of elephants for Kellen, both my grandsons have birthdays this month.

I also found carmelita stone earrings to match the ring Bob gave me seven years ago. They will go great with my African dress tonight. Becky found BF colors in a beaded necklace and bracelet she liked. We lounged a bit in the afternoon, and I put my bangs in bobby pins for a new look, as we began readying for the ceremony. By four in the afternoon we were all ready and began showing off our African attire to each other. Excitement was in the air!

Peace Corps had arranged for cars to drive us to the American Ambassador's home, where her back yard was set up for the ceremony under several large leafy trees and next to the pool. An African group was drumming and playing stringed instruments next to the small stage. We took many pictures at the rather grand entrance to the compound, as the well kept grounds were a great backdrop for our colorful attire. The eight male volunteers were equally brilliant in their tailored African clothing. But the women, all 26 of us were outstanding! See photos.

When the last of the invited dignitaries arrived, we trainees filled the first rows of chairs in front of the stage on either side. There were words of praise and encouragement from Thierry, the head of the training program and Marily, the PC Country Director. Then eight members of our class gave small speeches in French and seven tribal languages they had recently learned. Laughter erupted from the BF audience at times, as they are very happy with our effort to speak their tongues! This was followed by words from Jeanine Jackson, the American Ambassador and also from the Minister of Health of Burkina Faso.

Then our group was presented, we stood and repeated the oath, swearing in to the Peace Corps of the United States of America! It was exhilarating and the culmination of much work. You could feel the tension dissipate as we cheered and clapped. The refreshments were elegant: three grand cakes, each with a flag, US, BF and PC; and a bar in the back corner of the yard, which stayed busy all evening, and best of all the hors-d'oeuvres were being passed on huge trays by servers milling through the crowd.

Presently there was a tap on my shoulder, I was summoned to personally meet the Minister of Health. My reputation of senior volunteer, preceded me. I have found that age is very respected in this country. It was an exciting moment. Syr congratulated me, as did many of the language training staff, JZ, Theo, Bintou, and Patrice. I found Dr. Claude and Sylvie, RN, both at the top of our health program. A big group picture was taken, followed by one of the two groups and their respective managers, Small Enterprise Development and Health (Santee). See photos.

A short distance from our hotel was the bowling alley, where we had the party afterwards. It was a 5 lane alley, with electric pin setters, that worked about 75% of the time, and a dance floor and refreshment area, where a keg and snacks were. We all were giddy, we were so happy. Natalie was dancing with Rob and asked if I knew “the Swing” and I said “Sure!” Next thing I knew I was dancing with Rob and the youngsters thought that was cool. I grew up in the 50s and that's what we did then!

Soon two guy PCVs, Jed and Rene', were chatting with me and asked if I wanted to get into a group to bowl. I thought I better throw a practice ball to see if I could do this given when the last time I bowled was and my arthritic knees. Jed had a PCV give me her second ball to throw, and I picked up her spare to everyone's amazement (none more than mine). I played a line with them and ended up in the middle of the pack. I nearly made 100. At midnight seven of us walked home happily.

Saturday was filled with shopping for our homes in village. I bought my propane stove top, my cutting board, my thick foam mattress and a canteen box to store food in, out of reach of critters and insects. I found a chair to sit down at the store part of the time, as my body was feeling the effects of the previous night's jubilation. That night I went to a Lebanese restaurant for excellent schwarma and hummus wraps. The seating was outdoors, and at some tables people appeared to be smoking from hash pipes. My education is not all occurring in the classroom.

When I met a bunch of new PCVs going out dancing, I declined their invitation, saying one night was a lot for this gramma and I was hitting the hay. The next day we boarded the bus at noon and returned to OHG for a full week of training with our Counterparts from each of our villages.

Beginning Monday we had full days of classes, two blocks of prep work for the Counterpart Workshop Wed and Thurs, and two blocks of French with JZ. We reviewed my last French homework, and covered the present tense of the er and ir verbs, plus the verb “faire”, to do/make. My favorite new expression is “French is difficile (pronounced difficeeel)!”

Monday evening I waited at the front gate for my host sisters. I walked over to the seamstress boutique across the street and visited there awhile. All of a sudden they came, Fatimata, Ramata, Stephanie, Mary Angela and Minata. We went to my room and visited and they looked at photos of themselves on my laptop. Becky came by to greet them. I gave Fatimata the information paper on the Moringa Tree to give to Amade, their father. It was delightful to see them all. As I walked them out to the front gate, we made a plan to meet again Tues after classes, and they would show me their school.

12-11-07 BF Independence Day

In the first block of the morning schedule, JZ and I went over some adverbs and time phrases. Because I had inquired about prepositions, we focused on a', which has lots of uses in French language. The next block was Vini, Solomon and Siaka talking to us about the history of Burkina Faso and why today is celebrated by so many people. It was interesting and informative.

Then we broke into small groups and worked out our assigned parts to present the Peace Corps and its three goals to our counterparts at the upcoming workshop. In my group Laura and Matthew took the lead and divided the discussion into short presentations by each of us when our turn comes the next day. I spent over an hour at the internet. When I returned, there was Fatimata and Mary Angela waiting for me as promised. I got my flashlight and followed them south out of OHG on the main road to a lycee (secondary school). The girls showed me their classrooms and also Ramata's. The janitor kindly turned on the power and the lights came on so I could see dozens of three seat desks and blackboards full of chalk writings. I took a few pictures. See Facebook.

In a small area of the school grounds, women were in a kitchen preparing the evening meal for the boys who board at the school. Groups of boys tried their English out on me. They wanted me to stay and eat with them, but since I was the guest of my host sisters and they weren't included in the invitation, I declined. We did walk over to a separate area, where the dining was about to commence, and in typical fashion boys were swarming the serving counter. The noise level matched their eagerness for food.

We got on our bikes in the dark by then, and my host sisters insisted on riding clear back to ECLA with me, who had a flashlight and they who had no light. I swear Africans have 20-20 night vision. They literally see in the dark!

Wednesday & Thursday- Counterpart Workshop

We spent two days working and eating together. Each health volunteer had a person from their assigned village present. They came from all over Burkina Faso and were lodged in a nearby hotel. Vini did an excellent job leading this conference with diplomacy and a sense of humor. He was very handsome in his suits both days. It came time to do our little presentation, and after I gave the intro for our group, everyone clapped. I suspect my struggle with the language prompted that.

Next we did a familiar warm up exercise. We interviewed each other and presented our counterpart to the whole group. I almost forgot to say Gansonre, Moussa was a certified nurse, but slipped it in at the end. Gansonre appears to be a serious perhaps shy 28 year old, who says he likes talking with people and he likes honesty. His expectation is good collaboration. Our program manager, Dr. Claude was here for the entire two day workshop, and she is very well liked and received by everyone. She truly bridges the gap.

All of the counterparts are part of their village's health system in some role. Some of the guys there were so funny and real leaders, esp a short witty guy, who had everyone laughing and another handsome guy, who was drafted to lead a clapping, clicking routine; a salute pointing his thumbs rapidly in different directions and clapping in between. Then the audience tried it. It was a riot.

Some time during the morning session of the last day they sandwiched in my final test with Theo. My level stayed the same, so I was slated for an additional week of French. As we finished our workshop Gansonre asked Vini something about communication and my limited French and Vini responded that I would come later, after more language. (I was embarrassed.)

The training program director, Thierry, gave me three options: stay in Ouaga with a host family for a week, stay at a hotel, or go to stay at a mission at Koudougou, which will be my regional capitol eventually and I chose the latter. All the choices of course came with a tutor. Thierry said I could pick my teacher, but I deferred to his judgment on that. Later that afternoon JZ talked to me and said he would be my teacher and it would be an honor to do it. I almost cried as he is the director of the PC language program in BF. When I spotted Becky I did start crying from the pent up stress. I was also trying that day to get my blog and pictures into the flash drive, but struggled with it. Rob came by my room that evening and helped me. I went back and started packing up for our 6:30am departure for Ouaga in a bus Thierry had ordered for us and our Counterparts, as most of the pairs were then going to site together. When we arrived at Ouaga, to my surprise, Gansonre helped me with all my luggage, carrying it to the PC SUV and wiping the dust off my bags. He genuinely was helpful and we agreed I'd see him in a week or two.

Many people were at the transit house en route to somewhere else. It was near the holidays after all. Some PCVs were waiting for relatives coming to visit from the states, some were going home for Xmas, and some were done with service and going home for good. I went to the PC bureau for free use of the internet. Then a bunch of us got a taxi and went to the American Embassy Club for lunch. They have a reputation of the best chocolate shakes in Ouaga, and that proved true. The chimichanga was also very good.

At the bureau were two boxes for me, one from Lorraine and one from Angie. I opened them at the transit house, and what a treat! All the things I had asked for and then some. Clothes, vacuumed packed food, a bath towel, school supplies and hair things for the kids here, the quilt Sal made for me to give to a new baby and then I found the letter from Lexi and one from the instructor of Senior Sneakers. What a roller coaster ride my emotions have been on this month! The PCVs who were present loved seeing me open my boxes from home. Especially the homemade baby quilt from Sal.

On Saturday I took a taxi to town to go to the bank, get my glasses adjusted and mail some letters. I hung out at a French patisserie for coffee and croissants while working on my journal. It was so relaxing that I stayed until 2pm when they were closing for the weekend.

A cab stopped by the street to pick me up. Later it was clear that my first mistake was not setting the price initially. There was a woman in the front and two other passengers besides me in the back. He dropped them off somewhere, and picked up two other men from Cote' d'Ivorie. I spoke with them awhile, then the driver was headed for my section of town, Zone du Bois. I asked the price, knowing with a bike it is more, and he said one mil, two hundred francs. I said “No, that is too much!” We haggled over the rate. When we got close to my drop off point, the chauffeur refused the three hundred francs I offered him. I put it on the trunk, and he wouldn't touch it. Instead he grabbed for my backpack. The two men in the back seat got out and told me I should just pay him, that it wasn't going well. I had by then figured that out too. They mediated somewhat, and I gave him another 500 francs and he sped off! We were both angry. Luckily it was on a busy street corner in plain view of lots of other people.

12-16-07

JZ called me to say “Be down at the bus station before 1pm for the bus to take us to Koudougou.” I repacked all my things, taking just enough to get by a week in the regional capitol near where I would be placed. I enlisted the aid of a worker at the transit house to help me get my bags and bike up to the Charles de Gaul Blvd. I told the driver where I was to go, set the price, and gladly gave him his money upon delivery. The only problem turned out to be that there are several Gares with buses going to Koudougou. I was at one, and JZ ended up at another. By the time we figured that out, my stuff was loaded, the bus was loading, and the driver dropped down middle seats all down the aisle between the two stationary seats and I sat there two seats from the front. However by the time all the stand up passengers boarded along the way out of town, there was no view of the front window, much less what was beyond it. We were two thirds the way there when the puppy in the box on a woman's lap near the window woke from his nap, and let out a yip. I had to laugh as she shushed him. A cute pet for someone.

I text messaged Melissa, PCV stationed at Koudougou, who met me and helped me tie my stuff onto my bike with flat rubber straps, and away we went on the ride to “Petite Seminaire Notre Dame d' Afrique”, run by French nuns. The place is probably 50 years old and quiet, serene and serves three purposes: a seminary school for boys ages 10-20; a retreat center for groups of people; and a mineral springs water nutrients business. It was set on a big piece of property near the river and with plenty of lovely old trees harboring birds, singing and flitting from one branch to another. JZ arrived in another hour and soon went to visit his mother, who resides in this town. I ate in the common dining room and tried my French on whoever came in for the meal while I was there that week.

First thing Monday morning JZ and I set my learning schedule, with a formal lesson in the morning and afternoon and an informal one too. We would go to town and interact with merchants, etc. so I could practice speaking and then I would have personal study time as well. So Monday late morning we went to town, found the new Marche' in the center of town. I priced a lot of things I will need for my home. It was fun. At lunchtime we rode to a conference center set back off the main road by the lake. I ordered arachide (peanut) sauce over rice, it was excellent.

In the afternoon, JZ brought a tape with an interview of a trainee with pretty good French. Speaking it and writing it is not the same as hearing French. So it was good to practice listening and replaying it when I didn't get it. That evening when JZ went to his mother's for dinner, I ventured into town for a restaurant. I didn't find one readily, so I asked a young couple along side the road for directions. Achille in his mid twenties showed me the way to one on the main road down by the bridge. He stayed long enough for me to order and be understood. So I ordered him a coke, and he flashed his gorgeous smile as we tried to communicate. I went home happy to have made a new friend.

On Tuesday JZ and I made questions in French that I could ask at Melissa's work site, “Santee Pour Tous L'association”. (Health for All) We rode to her site mid morning, and JZ left me to interview the managers on my own. The two young women responded to my inquiries and gave me a tour as well. There were about six other younger women in the main room, working at sewing machines and cutting fabric at a big table. They showed me lovely linens embroidered with African scenes. I bought some things for my kids. Melissa returned to work shortly, and when JZ also returned, the three of us went back to the conference center for another delicious lunch of salad, and Riz Gras (rice with tomato sauce). In the afternoon we worked on the tape some and then I studied alone, doing sentences.

12-19-07 la Fete de Tabaski (50 days after Ramadan)

This morning there was an air of festivity about the town, as this is a significant Muslim day. On the way to town I noticed evidence of mutton near several compounds being prepared for the feast this day. JZ had me prepare a paragraph for the village chef at Sala when I arrive and am introduced to him.

JZ had arranged that Melissa and he and I would go to his mother's home for lunch this day. It was far west of town past the cathedral and hospital. Melissa and I rode our bikes, while JZ rode his moto. His mother had prepared Riz Gras, chicken and pima (pepper) sauce and watermelon. We met several of his younger brothers, close in age to 30. There were other relatives there restoring an older home on the back of the lot. The workers drew their water from the well in the center of the courtyard for the masonary of homemade bricks. His mother sells bricks out front by the street to support herself and family. Although her children are grown and gone, there are grandchildren and others living there. JZ said his own family will enjoy returning to his mother's home for Xmas.

During the afternoon session, JZ said that working with me this week showed him where I struggle with the language. He asked me what I thought worked best for my learning style, and also which teaching traits helped me. He genuinely wanted to know so that as director of the language program, he can incorporate what works for seniors. He told me he instructed his staff to use patience liberally, and we noted that repetition and word association work for me. When he commented on my effort, and said “I can see you have a way of getting your communication understood, even when all the words don't come automatically”, I knew he understood. Practicing speaking French in my village will bring it along too. Peace Corps is expecting many more seniors to join he said.

After the afternoon class, I met my new friend Achille and his friend at the restaurant and we visited. It turns out the meat sandwich I ate that evening was bad. I was on the BRAT diet the next day.

We had class Thursday morning but in the afternoon, JZ had to go to town, locate the Gare from which we would leave Fri, and purchase our bus tickets. We settled our account at the mission, which has a policy of reducing the price for volunteers to stay here.

Every evening the seminarians were practicing for Christmas services, and the fullness of the hundreds of young male voices was indescribably beautiful. Several muscicians on a keyboard and on African drums accompanied the vocal symphony. I swear their voices rose right up to heaven! I was so drawn to this music, that one night I stepped into the back of the church and watched the choral director pull in the younger voices, and the deeper voices and then the entire group of singers, who were moving to the music with body and soul. What a sight!

On Friday we left the mission by five in the morning with our headlights on heading for downtown Koudougou. The streets were being cleaned by dozens of women using wisk brooms. I was impressed with how clean it looked as they moved along down the streets, puffs of dust following them.

We were loaded onto the bus and on the road by seven, and two hours later we pulled into the Gare in downtown Ouaga. After getting my gear back to the transit house and some breakfast, I went to the PC bureau where Theo gave me another test. My level remained the same, low intermediate. Thierry told me that I could choose to stay in Ouaga another week or go to my placement site with a tutor (JZ's suggestion) which would make meeting people easier for both me and them. I chose that option. Thierry also said that I would be transported the day after Xmas, as most staff were already off for the holiday.

I spent the next four days at the transit house watching movies, shopping, using the internet, and visiting with others who were coming and going for the holidays. Beth and I watched a CD Christmas movie on her laptop, a new experience for me. Beth came into Ouaga to meet her sister at the airport the next day, then they would go to her site up NW in Burkina Faso. Jeremy was meeting his sister and his parents who flew in from the states with too much luggage, which he had them pare down and leave a good share at the transit house. Jeremy lives way up north and had plans to take them hiking.

He was kind enough to go to a little store with me before dinner and practice my French there, after which he gave me tips on repeating phrases used. People here often say the correct phrase after you attempt it, so repeating it right away helps him, he said. I picked up a small fish to make for dinner along with some fresh beets. I had inventoried the kitchen and found enough ingredients to make piloff to go with it. Reminded me of other cooking challenges over the years with my big family.

On Monday Becky and Robert, also new volunteers arrived and we chatted a lot. I made an apple pie that afternoon, which the few of us at the transit house gobbled down warm. Monday I repacked my things in preparation for my move to site. I also added some things to my pile. I bought a lipico and small side table which the men strung with colored twine in a beautiful bright pattern. I got two blue plastic chairs, and some food staples. I also made a dry run to St. Francis d' Assise church six blocks away, up on Charles de Galle Blvd.

12-25-07 Christmas Day

I was early out the door, as most holidays have churches brimming over with the faithful and the occasional. I walked the six blocks and entered a church which was set in a semicircle, with musicians in the left front corner, near the crib scene and before the main altar. There were singers in uniform from a nearby school outside who filed in and filled the front section of the church, where several microphones were set up for use by soloists as well as the choral director. The mass was in French, and the songs were also sung in French. The voices of the congregation were very wonderful to add to the rich Xmas hymns. It was a lovely service and a real connection to home for me.

Afterwards I enjoyed the quiet walk to Sheila's home near the PC bureau for brunch with some staff in town and all the volunteers who happened to be at the Transit House for the day, about 6 of us. Some past volunteers, who were now married to Burkinabe' and living close attended with their families. It had a welcome “home away from home” feeling to the morning. Baby Cash and Shawn called me on Christmas, and Jodi took a few snapshots of their end of the conversation, pretty cute. I got to talk to Angie, Cliff and all 3 kids for quite awhile that evening. In fact Bintou was trying to call me at the time, and finally called on the transit house regular phone line, to discuss our trip together to Sala tomorrow. I was so happy to know she would go with me to site for a week as I settle in to my village.

11-13-07

When I had language this morning, JZ (my professor) gave me the flip charts he made to hang on my wall. Maybe I will get it by osmosis.

Dr. Claude and two PCVs presented a class on AIDS and the culture of it. She brought a 50 yr old woman, Awa whom she met at a conference, to share her story of living with Aids. When she became so fatigued that everyday activities were very hard to do, she went for medical help. When the doctor told her the results of her HIV blood test, she kept it to herself for a long time. In Africa there is a stigma when one has it, and once the word gets out, victims are shunned. Finally though she shared with her adult children, who were very supportive. They said to her “You will always be our mom and we love you.” Her life is her children and four grandchildren. She pulled out photos and showed me those precious little ones after the talk that morning.

Awa has decided that she can support other women with Aids by speaking to groups of them upon request. She demonstrated a certain shyness, so this is undoubtedly a huge sacrifice on her part. Her Rx for one month is 2500 francs. There was good discussion between the class and guest speaker. It is so easy to respect her for the courage she shows in her volunteer talks.

That late afternoon we went around our village to the local wells and conducted a questionnaire on AIDS, which lasted until dark. There were giggles from the younger participants in our survey and sometimes people answered our inquiries and some didn't. We will collate the information for the health board which will then have it for further education of the population.

When we got to the training center the next day in OHG we health trainees processed our study at each of our villages on Malaria, the knowledge, attitudes and practices within each village. There is much work that can be done in this area.

We had a cross cultural presentation on Gender and Development, with a group of young adults whom Siaka had invited to answer our questions. It was very informative regarding the cultural do's and don't(s). Many of the limits on behavior have their roots in religious and cultural practices. It also differs in the village itself vs in the densely populated towns/cities.

The SED class demonstrated building a mud stove, which is a clay barrier surrounding the fire pit, and saves on firewood, because the wind can't as easily affect the intensity of the fire. This idea will be useful in village for ourselves or to demonstrate to our neighbors. The best mixture for the clay is donkey dung and dirt mixed with water and straw. It is a hands on project. There is a picture of trainees participating in this activity. We didn't all jump right into it, but eventually some of us did.

That next day all the other Health stagiaires came to our village and Natalie's parents brought hot lunch for us. The SED students demonstrated three more projects for us to do while living here; the lost well, dehydrators and making a desert fridge. The dry well keeps standing water and drainage from collecting. The dehydrators are simple methods of preserving foods that are not year around available. And the desert fridge is a system of two clay canaries with sand between, causing the inner one to be cooler. It keeps things two or three days at most.

11-17-07

This Saturday Natalie was a little under the weather and accompanied my drive to town, and we had two blocks of language. My teacher was busy with administrative tasks, and a couple of PCVs came along. Marcos and Audrie helped me with my flashcards. They also added words I would need in village in French. Then Theo came along and helped out too. We had a little time to ride our bikes in town to shop before going back to village.

The next day, Sunday, Becky showed up around 10am to hang out. We worked on our reports a couple hours. Becky loves visiting with my host family. She found out that Abi, the eldest daughter works in OHG for the AIDS program. Amadi, my host father is pretty versed on the SIDA/AIDS national campaign, as his brother is in the Health Ministry. Orokia, my host mother brought us lunch, and we continued our lazy pattern of laying on the mat (Becky) and writing in journal (me).

The teen girls in the family were washing clothes, which led to a discussion on Orokia pulling water up from the well approximately 20-30 ft down an open well, surrounded by a log frame at the entrance. In the wood one could see the grooves from pulling water up in buckets for many years. Becky was surprised at how deep it was, and Orokia wouldn't let either of us near the edge. See pictures.

We visited gramma Awa on her front porch and met her sister, and papa's sister, Azita. They were both visiting her and everyone hopes her son, John comes next Sunday to check on Awa. Her right knee is swollen by evening almost everyday. We have been wrapping it with an ace bandage daily.

As the day neared an end, the teen girls biked back to OHG to their respective schools for the next week. Madi started the millet stalk piles on fire. What a spectacular event that was for me to see. One, two, three, up to six of them going at once, making a big circle of flames. Amadi said it was for potash, which is used in cooking beans. The fires are a magnet for the children, who love to run and giggle in the evening's twilight.

11-19-07 Monday

Patrice is my language teacher in village this week, while the others have Bintou. Patrice used the exterior wall of the health clinic to hang up the flip charts and we did exercises together. I'm beginning to think there's something about learning a new language at this point in my life. It's that parts-timers effect, the memory just ain't what it used to be.

Later in the morning the six of us went inside the clinic and talked with the Infirmier (head male nurse) and the language teachers helped us discuss vaccinations and what was needed to train a woman's group on the subject. We gathered some statistics from the RN and clinic records, we also copied from a chart hanging on the wall there, the set of vaccinations available for infants 0-11 months, and a series of shots for pregnant women to prevent TB, which also protects the infants. Natalie is a fabulous artist and quickly outlined a pregnant Burkinabe', along with infants at one, four, six, and nine months of age. This made the information both written and drawn for the under educated or the Moore' speaking pop.

At lunch, Becky's family took a turn at providing Riz Gras and that wonderful bissap drink. While Yassia, Becky's host father runs the local restaurant in Somyaga, today her host mother did the cooking.

After another block of language class with Patrice, it was time to meet with some of the leaders of the community and discuss how to debrief the information we had gathered in our Malaria and AIDS talks with the various families. The leaders from the Community Business Organization decide how best to share the information with their community. We (trainees) had a quick meeting ourselves ahead of this for logistics and task-sharing, as two of our six were ill, and it fell to the rest to pick up the slack. Everyone pitched in and actually some new ideas evolved about strategy to work with the leaders. Becky did the intro, and Lacey led a discussion on the community response to the malaria questions. Natalie and I also mentioned that the families had some facts correct, but need help with the ones that are incorrect, i. e. one can get malaria from bad water or by eating too much vegetable oil.

About that time Dr. Claude and Thierry (program director) arrived at village. Dr. Claude sat in on our discussion with the CBO members and was well received when she spoke Moore' to them. She is a very personable woman. The leaders came to a consensus that they would write down the main points we learned in Moore' (the language of most of the villagers) to share with the community. It was near dark when we concluded that gathering.

11-20-07-Tuesday

By 9am we had the visual aids for vaccinations in hand and were all set to meet with the village women. There is something akin to Hawaiian time here, they call it Burkinabe' time. The village women were all at a baptism it seems, and around 10am they gathered under the hangar in the center of the village on the mats we had put down for them. (See the pictures.) Almost everyone of them was carrying a baby on the back or at the breast. Just the audience we had in mind. They continued to arrive a few at a time until there were 40+ women gathered. Then Jean Francois, the RN and Azita, the accucheuse (midwife) came with boxes of treats for all correct answers. Our own health trainee (an RN) Lindsey talked about each disease, the side effects, and the immunization that prevents it. Natalie displayed and explained the immunization schedule with the beau drawings she sketched. Finally Nakeisha and I role played the secondary symptoms of the injections. Nakeisha cried like a baby with me as her concerned mother. Lacey did the wrap up. The language instructors shared all of it in Moore' for the women. Then came the questions from the RN and midwife, who tossed the prizes in the air toward the woman who correctly answered. The women giggled as the prizes came their way. What a successful event!

After the main French lesson that afternoon, Patrice and I played cards. We had to add each card to the previous one, say the French numbers for the total until we reached 99. That was fun!

We had a long late afternoon break (nap), because in the evening when the family members would all be home, we trainees and our language teachers and two village leaders went back to each home/compound that we had surveyed, and shared accurate information with each family about Malaria. As I was pedaling home in the dark with my little bike light, Amadi came on his motobike looking for me.

11-21-07

Yippee, it was Wednesday and we were set to go to the training center for three days and overnight too. We as a group of 34 Stagiaires were excited about preparing food for Thanksgiving and being “a family” away from home. We transported the pumpkin Awa gave me, and all the things for pie which I had gotten in the capitol and most the ingredients for vegetable lasagna, which my roommates/adopted granddaughters wanted. I had borrowed two big pots from Orokia for the pies or lasagna. Amadi helped put the oblong pumpkin in a bag with the other foods. My bike got loaded.....we were ready.

Of course we still had classes that day, language with Theo for me. Dr. Jean Luc presented a class on infectious diseases in Burkina Faso. He is very entertaining. Next the Peace Corps Volunteers who were assisting with our training gave a talk on the many, many medicinal benefits of the Moringa Tree. Last that afternoon we had our exit test on Safety and Security in BF.

My roommates biked to Chaine Avion (market in town) to get the eggs and veggies we needed to make our two dishes for Thanksgiving. Meanwhile I spoke to the chef of the kitchen for the training center, who said I could come in and use his kitchen that night after he had served dinner. We aren't the only guests there, so there is tight scheduling of the facilities. I decided to make the pie dough ahead to line the pumpkin pies with, and also to cut up the pumpkin, steam it, scoop it out of its shell and mash it until it was blended. There was still evidence of pulp, yet was the color of pumpkin back home. While it was still warm, I added the two cans of milk and the spices along with two handfuls of brown sugar cubes, which melted in the warm mix. (The sugar here is either white or brown cubes only, which don't mash!) Later when that mixture was cool, I added the half dozen beaten eggs.

Around 8pm when it came time to use the kitchen and roll out the pie dough, the chef got out a rectangular serving tray for me to roll it on, with a quart beer bottle as a rolling pin. When I tried to put the crust into the pans I brought, the chef found one old pie tin in the back corner of his cupboard, and then produced a fry pan without a handle for the second pie. Close to 9pm I bqked the pies in the gas (propane) oven, and after an hour I switched the pies on the racks in the oven. The thinner one was done in good time, but the thicker one took another half hour. It was 11pm by the time we finished.

11-22-07 Since this is an American holiday, we had morning class. The main one was “Tom and Jerry” introducing us to monitoring and evaluating our work with the community following KAP study and projects. We need to measure before and after to see if we are making a difference or if we need to change anything about how we do our work based on the villager's Knowledge, Attitudes and Practices.

Some of the trainees lobbied management and we had the afternoon off, which was a good thing since groups of 4-5 people were each preparing some dish for dinner at 6:30pm. Our little group followed Kristen over to her host family home, close to the training center, where we put our lasagna together and baked it in a gas oven on her patio. We boiled the green and white half inch noodles I found in a kettle on a propane burner setting in a canary of sorts. The girls got the veggies ready, and the two cheeses; laughing cow (a cream cheese) and mozzarella I found in Ouaga. We put all that into the pan I had brought from home, and had enough to fill a second pan.

In the midst of this I got a call from Tammi wishing me Happy Thanksgiving, and letting me know it frosted at home last night. I spent some time talking to my two grandsons, Locke and Kellen. It was fun to visit with them.

We baked the pies 45 minutes on the patio, which is bordered in sunflowers. (See pictures.) We stacked both casseroles into Christina's woven bike basket and headed back to our Thanksgiving feast. The chef had taken the two turkeys out of the oven already, and later I saw him baste them via the fire in the oven every time the turkey drippings touched the gas flame beneath. Interesting!

While the guys were carving the turkeys, folks started gathering and toasting to the occasion, esp. that we had made it this far along in training. Ashley suggested we each say what we are thankful for. After a moment, I stood up and announced that it was my prerogative as senior here to take the floor (applause). I offered that “I am thankful that at a young age I heard John Kennedy invite us to join the Peace Corps, and that I am still able to do that now!” Many remarkable things were said as each person took their turn. Linda said she was thankful I agreed to be her gramma during Peace Corps. The language teachers said they are glad to be with us and they like the energy of our class.

Finally it was time to eat and we had an amazing menu of turkey, stuffing, garlic mashed potatoes and gravy, salads (green & fruit), string beans, cooked apples, lasagna, and so many desserts, but most though the Pumpkin Pie was unreal!

Later I was set to help wash dishes with 6 other people in the one person kitchen, when I got a call from Angie. That excited me and I talked with each of her children, Lexi, Lindsay, and Luke. The day ended well as I talked with three of my five kids and five of my seven grandchildren (the others aren't talking much at least on the phone). Shawn and Jodi will have their Thanksgiving gathering on Friday when her entire family is in Seattle to meet Cash Patrick Landis. Angie is having Locke and Kellen over Friday for a play day.

On Friday I got up early to go to the little place that makes three egg omelette's with onions served on French bread. The young trainees had gone out dancing last night, so I was surprised when Christina and Stephanie also showed up for an omelette. Soon it was time for French class and JZ wanted me to go to Bintou's class as it would be good for me to hear the pronunciation and be pushed a little. Most of my village PCTs were in it. They were working on Passe' Compose' with avoir (to have) and the infinitive. Bintou had written a story about a baptism celebration, isolated the verbs, and then we studied the irregular past participles, which we just have to commit to memory. Bintou taught us how to say the story in the negative, where you put en...pas around the verb. In her second language class, Bintou brought an interesting story about two PCVs, using the past tense.

In the afternoon we had a preparation session with Theo and Patrice about AIDS/SIDA STOP. When we went to village shortly after that we met with a group of men who had ideas about who could act out a skit for Saturday, December 1, the International Aids Awareness day. Most of these men were our respective host fathers or elder brothers of the particular family. Lacey's brother, Amaroun, and Natalie's brother, Abraham, both wanted to do it. We agreed to meet again after more particulars were known.

By the time I returned to my home, Fatimata and Stephanie had arrived home for the weekend. Soon Ramata came on a scooter with a young man. She respectfully woke up her father to meet this fellow.

I observed the dating protocol first hand in BF.

As bedtime neared women started showing up in the courtyard apparently for a meeting on uniforms. But I asked Orokia if they were there to dance....she said “No, but I'll ask.” They responded they would dance after the meeting. At 11pm I watched the dance and babies bouncing on their mom's back. At midnight Orokia brought a huge pan of hot sweetened coffee and passed it out to all.

11-24-07

When the car came to get me, to my surprise Orokia and a friend came to town too with a bag of harvest crop they were selling at the marche'. The first class that day was re: cross culture. Patrice told the history of Burkina Faso and a tale about the Mossi tribe (Moore' language) and how it came about. The entire lecture was in French. Every so often another trainee would interpret it for me. Late morning was the third French proficiency test, and I had Matthurien again. He posed questions about when I travel to my site, and how that would go. He followed up with questions about my host family. After the test I got teary about the pressure of learning French.

On Sunday I texted a msg to Wayne, as it's his birthday. I miss him a lot.

Orokia and Azita went to town for the day. They must have been successful as they came home in new outfits. They brought a new dress for Zalisa and some thing for the others. It was fun to see everyone excited.

11-26-07

All the Health trainees came to our village today. I had French lesson with Bintou outside by the maternity clinic. It was Lacey's family's turn to bring lunch for the group. It was Riz Gras, top notch rice and very good sauce. They had gotten a new stack of bowls and silverware for the occasion.

After the two hour break, we convened the afternoon session with Vini and Solomon, who did a prep technical session with us for our sensibilization exercise we will all be doing at the nearby primary school in each village. The instructors showed us a drawing of a bridge over a deep gorge that displayed problems before crossing the bridge and the dangers in the water below and what is needed to get over the bridge to Good Health.. Bridge=Info to Behavior Change. They did several animations, one using our nalgene bottles (to represent babies) an effort to communicate about family planning; and another with hot peppers on hands to describe microbes and hygiene (the unseen); a song for children to sing regarding vaccinations; and finally a drawing of a house to symbolize eating a balance diet. Proteins are the foundation, carbs give energy and strength, the structure, and vitamins represent the roof, protection.

We worked on our presentations for the school children. We outlined the process, Becky would do the introduction. Natalie would present the poster she drew for vaccinations, followed by a song about them to the tune of “Frere Jacque”. Keisha and I had a short presentation on the hygiene of washing hands after toileting, before eating and when coughing or sneezing. We each had questions for the students with bon-bons for correct answers. We would end with a second song.

We went to the local primary school at 9:30am to meet the principal of the 500 students. Each class had 50 students or so. We requested that we be allowed to present to the two older grades, CM1 and CM2 in sequence. The teacher of the older students was very interactive with us and the class, asking them questions throughout, using it as a teaching moment. The next class struggled as did we. We left the songs up on the blackboard, as the students showed an interest and were singing them to us, especially my family when they came home from school that day. Even Madi the teenage boy sang the ditty several times with the other kids.

There was a sharing session between all the health trainees about the our sensibilization with the women's group in our village about vaccinations and also the presentation with the school children. The fact that we each did this stuff in our own village meant that we could learn from each other's experience in village. In fact it is a good way to pick up tips on what works and what doesn't

At my tutoring class with JZ the head of the languages, I told him that Amadi, my host father asks if I have any homework and then practices French with me at home. He was happy to hear that. Actually on several evenings Madi would get out his Anglais notebook and proudly show me all his work on learning English at school. We would review his sentences, conjugation and little stories done in Eng.

11-29-07

All the PC Volunteers participate in the AIDS education in their local assignment, not just the health sector. Because of that there is a project in the PC training when groups put on a radio program. Our group was given the task of talking about AIDS and the older generation. We as a group decided that our piece would be an interview with a senior citizen. Since all the younger trainees had host fathers in their 20s or 30s, I offered that my host father was 60, and well versed on AIDS/SIDA as he has two family members directly involved with the country's fight against it. On this morning Amadi was to meet us and prep for the radio talk on SIDA STOP! When he arrived in his grand boubou and bonnet, he immediately drew respect and awe from the group. We all went to JZ's office and began going over the questions. Dr. Claude dropped by and chatted a bit with Amadi. Dr. Claude was being interviewed by another of the groups for their piece on AIDS. Each one in our group had a question for Amadi in French. At noon Nakeisha and I took Amadi to lunch at ECLA. Some of the language teachers were nearby and also spoke with Amadi.

At 3pm we walked over to the radio station, a few blocks away, and soon it was our turn in the soundproof booth. We followed the plan and the whole thing was over in 5-6 minutes. We were all amateurs at it, but for the general public who may be listening to the program, it probably sounded real. The station recorded it and can play it again. Our best French student said that some of the rehearsed responses varied from our morning practice, but it could be we were all a bit nervous.

11-30-07

I was picked up to go to OHG. Today we have 3 exit tests: Health, X-Culture, and our fourth language test. But in the morning we were doing our presentations in French on a selected topic. I had chosen the traditional clothing in BF: “Habillement au Burkina Faso”. I had written it in English first, then translated it into French to present. “The women in village wear a pagne with shirt or they wear dresses. The women in town wear this also and in addition they wear pants. The men in village and town wear shirts and pants. The older men wear boubous and caps.

I had lined up four local models. Mariam wore a small boubou and matching top with a foulard (headwrap). Bintou showed us a skirt, a chemise and a headwrap, all in matching BF bright green and blue fabric. Her beauty made the outfit stunning. Syr wore a traditional long sleeved sport shirt with nice pants in BF 'a la mode. Last Yvette showed us a long skirt and top with a pagne. She also showed us a regal ceremonial gown with gold buttons.

Then I told the audience you may have seen my host father here yesterday, while he was at the training center. He was wearing a grand satin boubou with a cap, which the elder men wear in village and town. My presentation was well received, and I felt that was the the best I've done in any class.

At noon I went to the internet cafe, then back to study for my French test. Bintou helped me study.

My test was with Vini and felt pretty relaxed and informal. He asked about my family, the BF clothing presentation I did that afternoon. He requested I ask him two questions, so I asked him if he liked his job, and I asked him where the Catholic Church is in Ouahigouya.

When the car took us back at the end of the day, we met with our CBO and RN for rehearsal of the SIDA skit. It went well but seemed long (often the case with rehearsals). I was glad to get home and eat and wind down. But at 9pm a large group of women, friends of Orokia came to our courtyard. They carried the benches out there in the middle and soon chanting and dancing started. First the light footed little girls, Awa, Zalisa and others started to dance. The moon did not rise in the sky this night. Orokia, Minata, and I joined later, stomping and swaying to the rhythm. It continues to fascinate me how the women dance with babies on their backs. And how they can see in the pitch black night. The dancing went on and on. Exhausted, I excused myself at 11 to go to bed.

12-01-07 *SIDA STOP DAY*

This would be a big day, the teens would be home from OHG school for the SIDA activities and the village farewell celebration. We trainees and our LCF's and some of the host fathers had already decided to meet at Yassia's restaurant at noon to listen to the radio program we had made that week. When we reached there, the host mothers were busy over the fires, making preparations for the dinner they would feed us later that day. The village program was set to begin at 3pm with everyone in attendance. First we had to go to the home of the village chief (Naba Kende) home and formally invite him to the event. As we walked over there, Theo had me practice the words in French to invite him. We entered his receiving room, each of us greeting him in traditional Moore' greeting, and then sat down on mats. I invited the chief to our ceremony and he accepted. I asked permission to take a picture, which was granted. (See facebook) We agreed to send for him when the gathering was ready.

Before long, some local folks gathered and then my family teens arrived from town. I was so happy to see them: Fatimata, Ramata, Aguaro, Stephani and Mary Angela. Soon families started flowing in and a circumference of benches was set up where we and our families would sit for the event. My family arrived, as did all the other trainees' families, then the village chief came and sat in the large chair used for him. The center of the square was for the ceremony and the SIDA/AIDS skit.

When it began, Siaka, the coordinator for our home stays, explained in French and Yassia explained in Moore' to the chief and crowd (numbering in the hundreds) the gratitude we had for them welcoming us into their village to stay two months during training. The chief thanked us for coming, and said it was a good experience for his village, and while they would love us to stay, they knew BF needed us in other villages and they would kindly let us go, and wished us Godspeed.

We trainees had each prepared a few words. Lacey spoke and shared the affection we all felt for the families of Somyaga; we had become a part of their families and lived together so closely. I spoke next and said in French how much I adored my family, and the cooking (patted my tummy) and the dancing (stomped my feet) and their kindness to share their home and family with me. I ended with Moore' “Wenda Kom de Naarre” (God bring you many years of blessings). Then each of the others spoke, ending with Becky saying her words totally in Moore'. The crowd loved it!

Patrice called each family host father forward and each of us presented them with a certificate from the Peace Corps for their hospitality. After that each host mother came forward to give each of us a gift: a black, turquoise and white woven pagne. It was an emotional roller coaster! See pictures.

Soon the actors set up the center area to put on the skit. Keisha's father, Smila was dressed in costume of a Burkinabe' woman. He was hilarious with his wig, his orange fluorescent lipstick, and orange bra showing via dress unzipped in back. That piqued everyone's interest, esp every villager who knew him and the kids present were really giggling. Smila strutted, wiggled his hips, and kept raising up his boobs, eliciting more laughter each time. Oumarou, Lacey's brother played the part of the Burkinabe' fiance'. The theme of the skit was a couple who wanted to get married and request permission from their respective families. The woman wanted them to get tested for HIV, so the couple went to their fathers and then to the doctor, played by Natalie's brother Abraham. They were tested and got negative results, so then got married. Afterwards, Abraham showed a condom demonstration on a wooden model, to teach the proper method of leaving space at the tip for sperm, carefully unrolling the condom and tying it to dispose of it in the latrine. This is really village education in BF!

Pop and bissap were served to the crowd as the celebration ended. Then we trainees and our language teachers met our families at Yassia's restaurant for a dinner of barbecued chicken and spaghetti, prepared by our host mothers. I rode my bike as we went home that evening. Orokia had a pan on her head with Aziz and Awa following her. Amadi rode his moto. The day had left a warm feeling on us.

That night there was dancing in our courtyard and I realized it was the last one—and it was for me. Many women attended and each greeted me. When they chanted that evening they put my name in songs and we all laughed. Around 11 or so Orokia asked me if I had any more bon-bons for the guests. Luckily my best friend, Sally had sent several bags, which served as my thank you to the women and children there. At midnight Orokia brought out the hot coffee with sugar again. It was so fun having that last dance with all my new friends from Somyaga. Sometime that evening a pregnant woman at the dance went on a moto driven by her husband to the maternity clinic and delivered twin girls.

12-02-07 My last day at Somyaga

In the morning I started packing up my room. Orokia said she and I would bike across the village so I could say Goodbye to her mother. On the way we stopped at the maternite' and visited the new mom and twins. It was my joy to present the new babies and mother with a beautiful and colorful baby quilt Sally had sent in the mail to me last week. Inside the Maternite' on a small bed was Ruketa looking fatigued yet happy with her twin girls each wrapped in a pagne. There were 4-6 women friends in the room sitting against the wall, who all loved the quilt too. Orokia put the new babies on the quilt and with her permission, I took a few pictures of the mother and babies. When we continued on our way, Orokia's mother gave me a bag of harvested peanuts.

In the early afternoon I gathered the family around and gave them presents, games for the children, hair things for the girls, a deck of card to Madi, jewelry to the women, and a Moringa tree to Amadi. We planted it together in the corner of the front yard nearest to my room. See the pictures.

In the afternoon the plan was to meet our language teachers at the village hangar to travel on our bikes to each of our homes to bid the families farewell. We did this plus made a couple more stops, one at Anne's host family and then the two language teachers' host family compounds, and last to the tombs of the previous village chiefs, sacred grounds. By the time we were headed to my family, the last stop, it was dark out. Patrice slowed his moto for a dip in the road, as did several bikers behind him. I put on my brakes, and must have turned slightly, when Keisha ran into me from behind and down I went! I was going pretty slow, but I landed on my left side (my bad knee) and let the fellows pick me up. It hurt for awhile, but I rode home.

Orokia had fresh bissap drink and warm peanuts ready for us when we arrived at my house. We lit a kerosene lantern and gathered in front of my porch on benches. Amadi, like the other fathers had, said how much they will miss me, their trainee. He said they too learned a lot and the family all loves me, and will visit me if they can in Sala. Azita the premier wife, said that I will always have family in Burkina Faso, even after I return to the US. I will always be in their hearts. Through all these visits, Patrice translated the Moore' and shared that each family said how much we six trainees had inspired their village and they are thankful their chief agreed for us to come there. Even the infirmier, told us he learned a lot about working together from our time there. The rest of the group went on to Jean Francois' house, but I decided I couldn't go any further.

Monday morning I took a couple pictures as I bid farewell to my Somyaga family with tears in my eyes and joy in my heart.

10-29-07

We six trainees met in our village with the CSPS (the center for health (Santee) and social promotion) and showed the members of the board, the tools we learned regarding village and health facts and issues. They drew their own community map and pointing out the 5/6 wells, the mosque and the CSPS buildings. This was led by Keisha. Then Natalie was in charge of having the men and Lizeta separately and by gender, list their daily activities. I presented the calendar and they pointed to dry and wet seasons, sickness period, time of the year when they have money from harvest and other times when there is no money and finally the feasts they celebrate. Lindsey led the needs matrix, with each group identifying five top health concerns of the village and then comparing each. Becky welcomed the group and Lacey did the wrap up.

Things happen in Burkina time, which calls for patience. One time the premier was in a nearby village, which all villagers wanted to attend and did. It took a couple of meetings to get through the exercise. Later on my host father was telling some visitors at home about the experience, so I know it was understood and fun for them.

That Monday night was a huge dance put on by the women from each quartier of the village at the chief's compound in Somyaga. Around 9:30pm some women arrived at our home. Orokia, Aguero, Mary Angela and the others walked with me from home in the moonlight over to the chief's place, where hundreds of villagers were gathered, waiting, and chanting. We were escorted into his private compound to chairs. After we greeted the chief, who provided cold Coca Colas to each of us, we sat there a bit, then were escorted with our chairs out to a clearing where the dance would eventually be. We had front row seats literally. It began around 11pm.

Each group of women had a chanter on the microphone and the crowd would repeat the line chanted. Like a moving stream the women from each quartier' went in and out of a circle dancing, stomping and chanting. The chief was in a chair in front us, several of his aides on mats near him. The chief gave his brother a card indicating his approval of each groups' efforts near the end of their performance. His brother presented the card to the leader of the chant, who was on the microphone. The brother, maybe in his 50s, joined the circle of dancers sometimes in fun, and then clicked his legs forward and backwards while he was squatting, until everyone there applauded and laughed. What a character! This went on until around 2am. The teen girls in my family and I walked home before that in the moonlight. Because there are relatively no clouds in the sky, the moon provides incredible light at night.

What was interesting was that every so often the generator for the florescent light and microphone quit, so there was an occasional pause in the festivities for technical difficulties. The energetic dancing stirred the dust up, so that intermittently someone came with a bucket of water to sprinkle the dirt down a bit. I noticed a few people covering their nose with an air mask, while I used a shirt sleeve, due to my dry throat and cold.

10-30-07

We were excited to meet in the village to attend a Baptism, but when we arrived we found that an elder woman of the village died in the night. Muslim tradition is to bury the dead the next day. So out of respect we walked over to where the men were walking in a line and group to the cemetery to bury her. Women don't usually attend death rituals, because they give life.

Hundreds of men were there. As we drew near we heard the chanting by older voices and responses by younger ones. We could see that young men were moving the dirt, and filling the grave site until it was covered, then mounded up. Some men walked out to a nearby Kee tree, tore branches off and set them on top of the grave. It was quite moving. As the grave diggers washed themselves, others made way for them. As if on cue, everyone turned and walked away. Burema, a CSPS member, came by and we gave condolences that his aunt had died.

10-31-07 Halloween!

When I arrived at training, Dr. Claude was set up for interviews with table and chairs under a tree outside the bureau office. In typical Burkinabe' fashion, she inquired about my health and well being during our greeting. She was impressed with the statements that I had submitted to PC and that I had heard JFK those many years ago. As head of the health trainees, Dr. Claude wanted to know how I was doing with language training. I told her I was nervous about French and Moore', but that body language was working. She said not to worry, that if I made an effort, people would understand. Next she inquired what size site I preferred, a small village or a metro area, with more resources.

I asked for no more than 5-7 km. of biking to a town. I also requested less heat. After our chuckle, I asked her to be the judge of where to use me best. She asked about La Leche League, and said there are three areas of concern about breastfeeding in this culture. The mothers do not recognize the benefits of colostrum (the first milk and discard it); they do not take much time to nurse ( they are always working); and finally they wean abruptly.

Dr. Claude said when Ron Tschetter (PC director) was in BF in June he asked her if she would consider a senior and she replied “Of course!” She listened to my tale of writing him. She said “You will make it.”

I went to the Internet Cafe' at noon and a fellow trainee, Rob, showed me how to transfer my blog and pictures onto the flash drive Heather got me, and I was so happy to finally get that started and on line now.

In the afternoon Sylvie, a PNP, gave a health session on STDs and one on cooking and eating in BF. She had many tips for us when we are on our own with our diet. We had a section on National Health issues and how Community Based Organizations work with the needs of the community. In our village of Somyaga there is a CBO called “Association les Marainchers”, gardening for profit after the regular growing season.

We always stay Wed and Thurs in town, and since this was Halloween, “the twenty somethings” all got in costumes they had thought up with very little resources and went off to party somewhere. I took a couple pictures of them in their butcher paper and masking tape costumes. I texted my kids to see how they were doing on this big day for their own kids.

Becky bought me a “Laughing Cow” fromage (like cream cheese) that we all spread on our French bread baguettes every morning. After another full day of classes and as it turned dark, I was driven back to village, where Orokia had made macaroni and fish (sardines) for dinner. I was so hungry.

On Friday morning all health trainees (20 people and their language tutors) came to our village. Some of the PC volunteers talked to us about their experience working with CBOs, ie Becca makes soap with her women's group. The group colored it yellow, it sells well and they now have a bank account, where other projects they may want to do get seed money.

That day in the late afternoon we met with our CBO, with 17 in attendance. Two of the 17 men were also Coges members. My host father Amadi was among them, which pleased me. We did two activities with them, the seasonal calendar and the needs matrix. After much discussion the men decided that poverty was the biggest issue in their community. Malaria came in second. The village culture in BF seem more cooperative and builds consensus compared to the US culture. It was also an interesting exercise in terms of timing. Several events in village had to be reckoned with. The whole idea is to build into the community groups the foundation to take care of their own health needs.

When I biked back to my home, Orokia informed me there would be dancing tonight here in our courtyard and that I should be ready. Gradually the women came, until by 10 pm there were about 30 of them, some with babies aboard their backs. I took my kerosene lantern out there where the young women danced and the benches circling the dance area were full of the rest, who chanted together, providing the beat and music to dance by. Orokia was chanting and holding another's toddler. Gramma Awa and I watched from two wooden chairs. Before midnight, I retired, but the festivities went on several more hours.

11-03-07

Saturday we packed up our bikes for early morning transport to OHG for more bike raining. This time we learned how to wash them and how to get the red dirt out of the chain, then oil it. Today I mailed my absentee voter ballot. It had been the first mail I received here. It has to be there by 20 days after the election to count. I also have an option to email it to the office of elections in Clark County. Today was also my second French proficiency test with Matheurn. I am not there yet.

Since it was still afternoon when I got home, I went out to the fields to take pictures of harvest, stacks of millet and bissape. Orokia walked me to another field that had fresh bissape plants. We saw a white jet trail in the sky, first one in the month I've been here. Reminds me of when I was a kid in Felida and we would hear a plane overhead and run outside to see it. Those weren't jets, so we got outside in time.

Close to dark two new vehicles pulled up. Amadi came to say his younger brother, John, is here. He had a friend along who was a doctor of public health, Dr. Deborah. In good English, he asked me why I wanted to come to Africa and how I could live in village without water and electricity. I replied that I was not surprised as I expected the poverty, but the people are beautiful in nature and generous.

As we sat visiting Fatimata, 19, roasted peanuts for us and as she fetched them from the hot coals, I marveled that she did not burn herself. In the courtyard, I gave bon-bons to the children, always a hit.

John was pleased to visit his mother, Awa and asked if I knew her age. He said she is 79-80 they think. He said his father passed almost 30 years ago. John's son Anawar, 29, who speaks a little English, also came to stay the night with his gramma. John works for public health, and he offered to bring me something tomorrow when he returns for his son. After a little discussion he decided to bring me cold water and a cold beer. Well I wouldn't turn that down.

Later in the afternoon, Amadi put his mother on the cell phone with a relative and she was chatting like a school girl and laughing. She reminds me of my mom, who was always so full of life and adventure.

Sunday was the first unscheduled day I've had. I was in my room journaling and hanging a BF map on the wall plus pictures of my family and outdoor scenes I took last summer while camping. I tidied up a bit as my class is coming here to cook a meal on Tuesday.

In the afternoon Orokia came and signaled to me to follow her to the fields. We walked across several already harvested fields, greeting neighbors in their fields as we passed by. We came to where Madi was hacking Kee from the dry ground. He chopped several times at the bottom of the stocks and gathered the 6-8 stems to each plant and stacked them every so often in the field. Orokia had me sit on a metal basin, turned over and watch. Beside me, Aziz was at play with his 2” black beetle.

I watched as Orokia went to the next field to gather a stack of the plants that Madi had made. She took two long stems of the Kee plant to tie them into a bundle. After getting them tied, she lifted them onto her head and walked across the fields to a clearing and stacked them against other plants, then return. I decided to try that. So I tied a stem around a bundle and Orokia helped me secure it properly. She lifted two more bundles on her head and I had one on mine, since she discouraged me from trying two. I set off following her. That bundle was heavy, but I just know my posture was improved. I had to hold it with two hands for security. The neighbor women in their fields chatted and laughed as we passed by. After successfully delivering my “load”, I took Aziz and walked home. Soon Orokia and Madi came home, but Orokia went into another field to do more work.

Later that day, Amadi's brother John, returned as he promised with two 8 oz bags of water, and a cold beer and a bottle of orange Fanta for me. He brought his mother an inhaler, and asked if I could assist her with it. I saw him slip a 2 mil franc into the hand of Orokia and one of the older teens. The successful members of the family share their wealth.

11-05-07 Monday

It was the first time since my test that I had language class, and Theo led the way to the shade under a tree for it. He focused on vocabulary about directions, buying things and getting around in OHG. After seeing the other 5 trainees stay with another tutor, I thought for sure I had failed my test, and behind my sunglasses a few tears trickled down. Theo apologized later, thinking he had upset me, but in truth all the language teachers want us to succeed, so they push us a little. Later I discovered that in fact I had come up a level to middle of the low level in French. After class, the car came to village for all of us and took us to town to shop for our cooking class on Tues at my compound. We went to the central marche' in OHG and bought red long potatoes for fries, and tomatoes, garlic and onions for our veggie burgers. Then our group of six proceeded to Chaine Avion (main grocery store) and got canned green beans, a box of rolled oats, and lentils for the burgers too. We purchased flour and a tub of margarine for our banana bread we would put in the dutch oven.

The next day Sylvie, who had given the cooking class earlier, came to my compound around 3pm. We had Orokia cook the lentils on her open fire to be ready for use asap, while some of us peeled the potatoes and cut them into rounds to fry on the top of the propane gas range in oil. (See pictures.) By the time Sylvie arrived we had the batter for the cake ready to put in the dutch oven, which takes a good hour. Once we hooked up those things we prepared the string beans, and got all the condiments for the burgers ready. We used French bread rolls for the buns. We used mayo for the ketchup. Improvise is the name of the game here when it comes to cooking. Hunger helps a lot too, makes you think creatively. Everyone ate as much as they wanted and then it was time to clean up, as Sylvie had four of these village groups of trainees to help try out the appliances in practice for when we get to our own villages and cook this way. My host family gladly tried the leftovers.

11-07-07 Wednesday

This morning after our Safety and Security meeting, we health trainees had a field trip to the local hospital, where there is a wing called CREN (Centre de Recuperation et d'Education Nutritionelle) for malnourished children. There are two major types of malnutrition in Burkina Faso: Kosh (lack of protein) and Marasmi (lack of food). Here they take the moderate and severe cases. Early detection helps with prevention. The great thing about CREN is that both babies and mothers stay here for up to two months. The head nurse spoke to us in French and our class asked lots of questions. The woman who teaches the mothers how to make enriched porridge, explained the children's diet to us. We saw the charting where the facility keeps track of weight, height and other vitals of the patients, including immunizations and medications. We got a tour of the whole hospital after that.

I went to the Internet in the afternoon and put captions on some of my pictures, which should help folks tell what's going on esp when the pictures go up before the blog does. The next day we boarded the bus for Ouaga, a 3 hr ride. A young man sat next to me and we practiced his limited English and my limited French on each other. Turns out he is a lab technician for the hospital we toured two days ago. We used the dictionary throughout. When I asked what his job entailed, he said he checks for bacteria, infection, parasites, glycemia, leukemia, cancers, etc.

Once we got to the capitol, we hailed the green taxis and went to the PC bureau for a quick tour and then the transit house, where we stay anytime we are in the capitol for overnight. It is a big hostel virtually. While there we had another Safety and Security class about guys who get onto the bush taxi, drop their change and take your money while you are gathering up their coins. They also said people will reach in an open window and grab your purse, etc. That afternoon we had a catered lunch at the bureau, where I had ordered a fish on a bed of peas with French bread, and fruit juice to drink. Dessert was a papaya. Excellent!

When the staff gathered to make the announcements, they had Becky unroll a map of Burkina Faso with all the Health placements in green and all the SED (Small Enterprise Development) placements in red. The PC country director said the placements were a group decision, with all those participating, trying for the best match of local needs with our skills. Then Becky was asked to pull a slip out of the bag and read the description and the director of each program verified which trainee got the site. We all became pretty good at guessing whose selection it was before it happened. This went on for 34 selections.

My slip said “Congratulations. You are going to the village of Sala! It is south of the capitol, 100 km and located 13 km east from Sabou on the main road. The site is perfect for someone preferring a small site of about 2250 inhabitants. The community of Sala is full of resources. There is a barrage and an agent d' agriculture. Transport is available everyday from Sabou to Sala. What you might not know is that your ICP has his own car and is more than willing to chauffeur you around!” The group guessed my name right away, since I get driven from village to town a couple times a week, a senior benefit. (See the site map picture.)

A panel of PCVs talked to us about their experience in BF and we asked lots of questions. I asked what they did when visitors come and they said “Meet them at the airport for sure, then spend a few days in the capitol and a few days in village and maybe see a few sights.” They said tours can be arranged, ie the Elephant Park Central near Ghana, and the Banfora Waterfalls in SW. The International Art Festival is popular every two years, as is the Film Festival on alternate years.

We celebrated our news by going out to dinner at Verdoyant, an Italian restaurant, and shared our food at our table. Right when I finished eating, Heather rang me on the phone. It was wonderful talking to her. She is traveling to Michigan tonight to meet her rental manager. So I could share my news with a family member and that is a good feeling. We all got to stay at the Nazemse Hotel in Ouaga and from there we could conveniently shop downtown.

The next day I went to 3 fabric stores until I found pagne material I wanted. It is a blue and white pattern of pintards, native birds. It will make a nice “swearing in” dress. I also went to Marina Market, a modern western store, where I bought groceries for Thanksgiving dinner. The girls who have adopted me as their gramma while we are here, want me to teach them how to make veggie lasagna and I want to make pumpkin pie. Awa the gramma at my compound gave me a long orange looking gourd she called pumpkin, so that's what I plan on making the pulp with. I won't bore you with the fiasco I had with my credit card, and cashing traveler's check, just to find out they would take American money, since I was short on francs right then. Back on the bus to OHG, a two and half hour ride.

Saturday morning was taken up with a language class and one on malaria. Then we returned to our villages and a free schedule in the afternoon.

11-11-07 Sunday

After I got up and going this morning I watched the family activities. The women were grinding shea butter on the big circular cement table in the courtyard. This surface had big oval grinding stones set in it's surface. Those foot long rectangular areas were smooth and raised up on either end, which made grinding natural; stone against stone. The women had already mashed the grain in the wooden bowl with their big pistils. They pound in cync with each other, one up, one down, sometimes three in concert. The mix was very dark in color. Evidence of harvest is all around the compound, peanuts drying on the rooftops, straw drying on wooden lattice frames, sheds secured for storage. Gramma Awa was plucking bissape blossoms to dry.

I went out to the peanut field where Aguero and Ramata were digging up peanuts by pounding the dirt to loosen the roots (which hold the peanuts) and harvesting the whole plant. The dried stem and leaves are foliage for goats later on. The teen girls let me take their photo, then they took one of me hacking at the bush. Ramata took the picture backwards and got her arm—so I gave a quick Fugi lesson and we all laughed. Humor cuts across cultures!

Almost midday I got company, Becky and Lacey walked the back path here to visit me. I took them around to meet all the family members. They so loved the 80 yr old gramma Awa, who reminds me of my mom. She's so excited to have someone come by and visit.

In gramma's courtyard we watched the two Minata's ( her granddaughters from two of her children) boil the kee they had mashed earlier. The mixture was in a big kettle over a very hot fire, and the oil came bubbling up to the surface, like a cauldron. The dark brown pulp underneath the yellow oil kept coming through. Both girls invited us to watch them skim off the oil and when that cools, I understand that it is the shea butter so famous for skin application. I use it on my feet and the cracks are gone overnight. That's an important remedy when everyone here wears flip flops. My Chacos are all that I wear. See the pictures of this mixture in the pot.

My two friends and I sat on my front porch visiting a long time then Orokia brought us lunch. White potatoes and sauce, yummy! We read and journaled and relaxed with no schedule. That was great. When they were ready to leave, we all vowed to continue this as a Sunday ritual.

In the late afternoon Orokia said Aziz,5, was sick and I remembered that she said he woke up with a headache that morning. Amadi gave her money to have their youngest child seen at the village clinic by the accouchuese (midwife) as he had a high fever and was sweating by then. Orokia was cleaning up after being in the field most of the day harvesting. Amadi's motobike needed a new spark plug, so I offered to transport Aziz on the back of my bicycle, which has a rack there. Orokia put him on the back holding onto me and she tucked his feet up under my seat. Off we went! I was a little nervous but knew we shouldn't stop until we got to the clinic. We were there in 5-10 minutes, following us was Orokia on an old bike and she headed over to the midwife's place to get her to come to the clinic.

The two women talked for a while and then the Accouchuese started writing out a list of pills for Aziz to take and all the directions about dose and times, etc. She went over the directions carefully with Orokia: Beogo, Zombre, Lungo (morning, noon, night) in Moore'. I inquired about any tests needed and she said from his high fever and cough, she knew Aziz has “Malaria”. Soon we were sitting on the front porch of the clinic and Aziz was given 2 small pills, probably Tylenol to bring down the fever and make him more comfortable. He gulped them down with water, and almost immediately threw them up. There is not the luxury of liquid medicine here for this age. After we rode back home, Aziz laid on the bench by his dad and went to sleep. Much later Orokia came walking home, as she stopped by the boutique to get some things for tomorrow's lunch, then had a flat tire on the way. What an amazing woman she is!

11-12-07

While I didn't have the day off, I had wanted a little change in routine on my birthday. So I had asked my host mother if she could be the first host mother to make lunch for the village PC trainees and two language teachers, who would pay her two mil francs. That meant we all would come to my home for lunch. I tidied up my room and sat down to open the big envelope Connie had sent me saying “Do not open until Nov 12”. What a surprise! All kinds of people at my send off party wrote notes that day in anticipation of my birthday. I got teary at all the msgs. Thank you so much!

I biked to village for class, and was greeted with birthday wishes, even from my French teacher Theo, who calls me “tante” (aunt) Mary Kay. After the morning of French and KAP study prep work, we went to my house for a lunch of beans and rice with tomato sauce. The way that Orokia prepares it is so tasty. Everyone ate til they were very full. Then the group gave me a card and sang to me. We got to stay at my house for class in the afternoon. Patrice taught me French under the big tree in the field where the millet had been. We worked on the passe' compose' of “to be” and “to have”.

We returned late afternoon to the center of village to organize for a door to door KAP study questionnaire on Malaria. Around 6pm when most villagers are home from their day's activities, we split into two groups, each with a language teacher to help us and with two members of the community to ask questions prepared in French. Our language teacher translated the French into Moore' for the villagers. The study captures what the villager's Knowledge, Attitude and Practices are with regard to malaria (or whatever health issue you want to study). Every compound we went to crowds of people gathered to listen and observe. The men usually responded, but at times would ask the women to respond. There was both accurate and inaccurate responses, all of which we recorded, without comment. This is one of the tools we will use to determine the needs in village when we get to site.

By the time we finished it was dark out and I could no longer read from my paper, so younger eyes took over.

Lacey said we were supposed to wait at the boutique (village store) for the other group to finish, and that Theo was bringing something from town, so we waited....... A crowd started gathering and chatting, then Theo showed up on his motobike with a gym bag, then my host parents showed up on their motobike, and finally the other group of trainees and their helpers arrived.......Then everyone sang Happy Birthday to me in English, then in French! Boy was I surprised. Soon Theo opened his bag and “Voila!” there was an ice cold beer! Cold beer and pop in the village of Somyaga, in Africa where the temp outside was 90 degrees all week. The trainees pulled a good one on me. What a way to celebrate! My host parents followed me home on their motobike with their headlight showing me the way. All in all it was a pretty unique way to spend this birthday.

10-17-07

This morning I was up at six, because a car was coming for me. We were going to town, OHG and have a little break from the intense schedule. The night had not cooled down much and the bucket bath was refreshing at this point. Before leaving our village, we trainees met with the community health board, a group of six members (one woman) plus the local male nurse, who is always the secretary on the board. We asked them questions we had prepared in French the day before. The RN led the responses, and the board members were very interested in who we are and what line of work we had done. Translating this into their language (Moore') was challenging for the RN it appeared. This health board is representative of the ones we will work with in any village we may be assigned to in BF, so this experience should serve us well in the future.

Right when we arrived in town we stopped at a gas station and got yogurt and drinks, anything cold is coveted by all of us at this time. The change of scenery did us all good, we even enjoyed our French class in town. We got on our bikes and went to get lunch, some of us went to the internet cafe, only to find that it shut down the night before, and was still not up and running. I had bought a cell phone by now and the office staff at the internet cafe helped me text msg my kids and set my phone ringer, an important thing really.

While on my lunch break, I biked to the big market in the center of town, a maize of little tables and huts, where the locals sell produce and handmade items. There are some unusual sales, you can get your motorbike washed on the spot, or your shoes shined, or you can pay to have your bicycle stored. There are always tables filled with flip flops and ones with cell phones, and local food sells well. I did purchase a roll of toilet paper for 400SFA, which is about a dollar. Not really a bargain, but my negotiating skills in French have a ways to go. I later learned that the PC pays 500SFA for a two roll pack of TP.

As I rode back to the training center all of a sudden my phone rang and it was Angie, what a treat to talk to her and find out about things at home. By now I was most certainly late for my class, but that's alright—it was conjugating French verbs in 100 degree weather! Later that afternoon we had a couple hours free time, and again my phone rang and it was Chris, so good to hear from him. He's getting a phone card, cheaper way to talk I hear. All I can do from here really is text msg. That reminded me I need to get post cards to send right away to all my grandchildren. I gave my kids a long list of things I need......I told Chris that I am an expert on bike tire repair, as I had three flats the first two days I had my brand new bike...I now know I can't ride over the grass beside the pathways, which have thorny brush in them. And that is a guaranteed puncture in my tire.

At 5pm with our bikes on top, the van took us back to village, about 7 kilometers, and from there we biked back to our family compounds (less than a mile) just as darkness fell. It is refreshing to cool down every night via a bucket bath under the stars in the sky as my douche is a brick structure, open to the sky above. I have since taken a picture of this structure to show you. My latrine is on one side, and the bath area (douche) on the other. At this time of night it is dinner, then bedtime. It is so dark out by 6:30pm and with the grueling schedule, it is natural to turn in early.

10-19-07

Peace Corps sends a car for me and my luggage by 7am, as we are stopping at OHG for classes and preparation for going to villages of current PC Volunteers all over the country. They call this the “demystification visit”. I assume that means it makes it real to us. Three of us from the Health sector are going to a village 100m. SW of the capitol, called Gao. Meanwhile after our language class, we had a couple hours of free time, and we rode to town and got on the internet at a local cybercafe. One hour is 350 SFA. After that we found the sandwich shop, Melissa one of the trainees is living with a family, whose mom has the shop and hand makes each sandwich as it is ordered. My favorite is hard boiled egg slices and avocado slices, with red onions and tomato slices on the long French roll. Yummy!

The afternoon session for all Peace Corps Trainees was hilarious—Siaka, Saliou, Printout, PCV and others did a skit on what it's like to take a bush taxi. People, animals, and baggage kept adding to an already full bus. Then a pregnant woman with a baby strapped to her back boarded. Then a guy with a goat got on. People had to move seats constantly. Pickpocketing happened. A Muslim got out his mat to pray at one stop. And the driving was erratic to say the least, first Siaka would floorboard it, then shift when the engine was revved up, and all the folks leaned way over as the load shifted. I'm telling you we were in gales of laughter. That was just a preview of things to come.......

We 34 PCT boarded a nice bus to Ouagadougou (the capitol) the next morning. After the three hour ride, we all split up to go to our respective sites in country. Our little group, three trainees and our language facilitator went to a small bus stop and waited over four hours for our bush taxi. Apparently we just missed the first one. Since my tent, mat, and potty chair were tied together, and the single strap wasn't quite doing the job, I bought a long rubber strap from a vendor. By then my pride had deserted me.

To pass our time we found a modern western grocery store in the center of town, We each bought ourselves a treat, mine was a chocolate croissant. Then Becky and I wanted to look in the big mosque nearby, and we had to cover our head with a scarf to look in. Some guy took us around to a doorway, and said we could look in, but not enter, and he allowed us to take pictures. For this experience he wanted us to each give the Imam 2000 SFA. Becky protested, and after a couple minutes we each gave him 500 SFA and left. Bintou told us the guy shouldn't have charged.

Still waiting for the bush taxi, I watched a shoemaker lace together sandals with a long threaded needle. It reminded me of Doug lacing saddles and other leather things. Two customers came by and got shoe shines while they waited, now there's a lost art. “Vous travaillez tres bien! Your work is very good” I told him.

]The bush taxi showed up around 3pm with the driver wanting more money for our luggage after we bought our tickets, but Bintou headed that off. We got on board this old long van with seats. Soon we made another stop several miles across town and lots of goods and people were loaded. We laughed as we watched the loaders stuff 4-5' high with cargo, then proceed to tie five bikes, standing erect over the cab. After that a stack of large metal bowls and a large watering can were tied on the top. We boarded the bush taxi.

A mom and toddler and 20 others got in this 8 person van. As we tried to leave, through the window, the driver and a customer had a long heated discussion about something. I thought they were discussing safety, but no it was the cost of transport for goods. It went on ten minutes or so, while all 2 dozen passengers sweated in the van. Finally we left. I was sitting right behind the driver and noticed he kept looking out the window back toward the rear wheel. About half an hour later the entire wheel separated from the axle with a loud noise. This happened after we had gone 50mph on the road to the south. As luck would have it, we broke down in front of a welding shop by the side of the road in a small town with a dozen little shops. An hour later we crossed the road to the bar and had a cold beer, sitting out in front so we could see the van. As the welder worked on the axle all the passengers sat around watching. The driver and one other worker put the wheel back on. I noticed they only had two lug nuts, and I started worrying about that when our LCF announced that Peace Corps was sending a car for us. Whew! I was so relieved. By now it was 6pm. The PC car arrived and we traveled back to Ouaga. By now it was feeling like Murphy's Law, as we came upon a huge traffic jam—the traffic stopped because the President of the Country was passing by. Our driver extracted our vehicle from the snarl and we proceeded to go 30 km around the back way until we reached the PC transit house (a hostel house for PC). It was sheer luxury, after our day. We ordered dinner in and had a real bed to sleep in for the night.

Now we leave for Gao at 8am for our demystification visit. A PC car drove us 3 hr and 100km south of Ouaga and 50 km east on a dirt road to Stephanie's place. She was awaiting our arrival, and had baked banana bread and sliced up watermelon to welcome us. She had an incredibly homey living situation. Her hut had 4 rooms, a bedroom, kitchen, la douche (shower) and a living area. Villagers had poured a concrete patio after Dr. Claude made a site visit and told the village chief “Fix this my son for Stephanie.” Voila! Stephanie had a compost pile from which two tomato plants were thriving. She had planted five trees nearby too. There was a wall around her yard, and a screen covering the entrance, so animals could not enter.

The four of us asked her questions after question about her life in village. She says the Loges doesn't work that well, but the person in the new mayor position is very helpful to her. As we relaxed we met neighbors who came by and also the girl she pays to help out everyday. The 15 yr old girl has family in Ghana. She lives in Gao with relatives and likes it here. She transports Stephanie's water, washes her clothes, cleans dishes and straightens the house.

Soon we all walked around the village, meeting Stephanie's friends to whom she speaks perfect French and some tribal language. The people adore her and she them, esp certain ones. Her neighbor, Rosalie, helped her get connected to small groups of women and men who already had gatherings. She also went into the village school and taught in the first three months there. Her nearest PCV is Marcos, who is a favorite neighbor. They visit each other weekly approximately.

We bathed in the afternoon, then Stephanie made egg roll soup and a bean dish out of the PC cookbook. We had several language sessions with our LCF Bintou, who is a great teacher. Late in the evening, a neighbor woman brought over dinner: barbecued chicken, rice casserole, cous cous, and sauce. We loved it, sitting out in the yard at a table under the night sky enjoying each other's company. We tented that night, me on the patio, and Becky out in the yard, Bintou on a mat (traditional African sleeping spot), and Natalie in the bed and Stephanie on the chaise lounge.

The propane stove top and the oven in Stephanie's kitchen offer a variety of possibilities for cooking, ie Pancakes. While we had language class the next morning and learned past participles in French, Steph went to market to get bread and cheese for tuna melts at lunch. Here in Burkina Faso I have noticed that food is a main source for conversation. Locals go to marche' (market) every several days, because the heat doesn't allow food to stay edible very long.

Monday morning we toured the health sites in Stephanie's village: CSPS, the maternity ward, the pharmacy. During this time we met the village nurse, called “infirmier”, the midwife, who had just delivered a baby, and the ICP and some village teachers. There were 12 women waiting in clinic for a prenatal visit, which was delayed due to the delivery. This gave us a glimpse of the health aspect of village life, which we will be involved with when we each get our assignment in our village.

We walked back slowly down a path near a cluster of animists, who were engaged in a fetish ritual. They had two poles with a pane (cloth) wrapped around them and guys on either end baring the poles in a ritual dance. Back and forth they went with a crowd of worshipers following them. Stephanie said the fetish is thought to be a spirit that comes to “life” after long periods. We watched from a distance. Further along the path we visited the mayor and asked him historical questions about the village. He said the village was two tribes coming together hundreds of years ago, some were Moslem and some were animists. They live cooperatively.

As we tracted back to the house, we came across the local bar and some of the guys there play music, so after the sun went down we had arranged for them to play drums and flutes and dance. That lasted several hours in the moonlight. When the men had danced a traditional African dance, the women and children joined in, then they enticed us to try it, which we did and had such fun. Their dance steps and rhythms don't come so naturally to we Americans. By that time we were tired and hungry so we each gave the musicians 500 SFA for both the dancers and them and headed home. The neighbor brought dinner again and we were treated to beans and chicken, “To” and sauce. We tented again.

We got up early for our 8am bush taxi ride, but had to scurry when the driver showed up at our door at 7:30. We went back to Ouaga (the capitol) and thankfully the return trip was uneventful. I had to stay overnight in the transit house because Sylvie, the medical officer, had arranged for me to get my front tooth repaired. The clinic PC sent me to, cares for the embassy personnel too. They did a beautiful job for me. The BF dentist spoke perfect English, which he learned in school he said. They had the latest equipment, hardened my filling with a blue light. A second dentist was present and haled from Bolivia, and then a third dentist arrived and he was from Brazil. They all spoke good French and some English, definitely an international dental group. My taxi picked me up in an hour and returned me to the transit house, where I could walk to the PC bureau and spend two hours on the internet for free. I was able to send a group email, which made me happy.

On the way back to the transit center I stopped at a nice restaurant and ordered a salad to go. I sat a watched a tape of an old movie “Miracle in the Woods”, a multi-generational family dilemma.

The next morning the van came to pick up several others with me to return to Ouahigouya.

For the next several days we had classes to process our visit with the PCV. we each visited last weekend. We started to learn about conducting a “Etude de Milieu” (study in the village setting). We were transported to another village and learned tools to use in our study at the village level. They are: Seasonal Calendar, Village Map, Roles of women and men in village, and “Needs Assessment” done on a grid. Because this is hands on training, we had then set aside time to train the village leaders on these same tools, having them do the exercises and drawings themselves. It was a real eye opener, comparing what we came up with and what they did. For example they highlighted the mosque and the six village wells, and we hadn't. We emphasized how hard the women work, and the gender roles we observed. We learned from each other!

One of the field trips we took on our bikes was to the cabaret, where a groups of women brew beer from millet mostly. The alcohol content is not regulated by the state and at times it can be as high as 8% we were told. I took a couple photos of this just to show my brother, Wayne, who worked in this business until he retired. And yes, I like a beer now and again.

10-28-07 Sunday

Today Orokia is taking me to meet Salimata, her mother. Her home is across the village of Somyaga. We biked there. On the way we met her grandmother in a field nearby working. Everyone here greets everyone else where ever they find them. I had saved a votive candle to give Salimata. She is blind in one eye, and doesn't get out much in terms of visiting. I think Orokia introduced me to her sister in law there too.

When we returned home an hour later, a group of women and the two of us walked to the next neighboring compound and visited with them. Many, many people were there, groups of mothers and babies, groups of young men, and also men. The women were together in a hut nursing their babies and visiting. It was close and hot in there. Boys were playing cards together. Other young men were hanging out, listening to music. An elder man in the courtyard was plucking peanuts off the picked plants, and I sat down and tried that too. Orokia and I went into one hut and were served rice with goat meat (a little tough to chew, but tasted OK). Azita went over to the neighbors with us, but returned early.

Sunday is such a restful day during training, and I had a nap. I watched Amadi and Madi (15 yr old son) tie millet into bundles to put up to dry. That is an art, tying those things together, using the stems and braiding them around the top securely. This also served as a hanger. The results were beautiful to see. (view pictures)

This fourth week in training was both exciting and hard. We all had our language level test, which I advanced one level up. When you start at the bottom the only way is up, right? The health sector, the group I'm in, had their interviews with the Director of the Health Sector, Dr. Claude, who is so personable and encouraging. It was like a visit, not an intense interview. We chatted about what kind of site I would like, and what skills I would use in village, and about the needs here in Burkina Faso. She thinks that the women need support about taking more time nursing their babies, and about the benefits of colostrum, the first milk, and also about not weening their babies abruptly. We agreed that all the mothers nurse in BF and that is good. I look forward to offering extra support to these moms.

Dr. Claude is an exceptional woman and had just come from an international conference elsewhere in Africa on malnutrition. Her husband is the fourth highest political leader in BF I understand. She has been with the PC here since 1995. She told me about the director's visit recently, and his hope that more seniors join up. You know how I feel about that.

After two days at the training center in classes, Friday I was picked up with the other trainees from my village and we went to Sissomba, another village to visit there and have class. All the Lori's live here, Lauren, Laura, and Lori, all of whom speak perfect French. We practiced conducting a community meeting. We had a great lunch of beans and rice with sauce.

On Saturday we five rode our bikes to town and went swimming at Hotel de la Mitte and ate American style hamburgers. They tasted extra good to us. What a treat! Just to give you an idea: 1500SFA to swim, 3000SFA for the burger, and 800SFA for a Flagg beer (a qt). Then to the internet (one hour cost 350SFA) and our bike ride home (7 km). A great day and break! Lots of pictures.

My Peace Corps Journey

Last weekend the Landis family machine went into full speed ahead—three days of intense moving activities, both getting “things together for my two plus years abroad” to take along, and the emotional roller coaster of emptying my home of 42 years and putting it all in a 10X15' storage unit. I had wonderful help from my family and friends. Someone said “after all this work, you are not missing that flight!”

Since 1961 when I first heard John Kennedy's words “Ask not what your country can do for you, but rather what you can do for your country”, it has been in my heart to join the Peace Corps. And on Monday this very week, I flew from Portland to Philadelphia for “staging”, a time for information and immunization to get ready.

37 of us (excited, scared, eager, sad) bussed from Philly to JFK to depart on an Air France 777. As we neared Manhattan we could see the port area with the Statue of Liberty prominently greeting one and all. When the Brooklyn Bridge came into view I shrieked a little (I had not seen it the other time I was in NY). We drove on for some distance to get to the airport. Now it's here! Today I am leaving for Africa, and what lies ahead. Every time I say that, I lose it.....

10-05-07

We flew overnite to Paris. Since I had requested a window, I got one, but that meant that between me and the aisle were two rather husky Frenchmen, all of us with our knees knocking the seat ahead and I did not get up but once to use the facilities. Boy did I regret that later when my feet and ankles swelled up!

Flying from Paris to Burkina Faso takes six hours, most of that is above the Sahara Desert. As we neared Niger and Burkina Faso and descended toward the ground—the earth suddenly greened up and muddy rivers became visible along with earth toned villages. Then suddenly we were here—in Africa! Being greeted by official PC staff, both local and American. As we deplaned, the African heat enveloped us. We climbed aboard another bus and were taken to SIL, a compound used for retreats. On the bus ride the culture shock began! Marketing in BF was evident everywhere, tables full of cell phones and flip flops, fruits (bananas and mangoes and watermelons) furniture, pagnes (cloth that women wrap up in here) radios and CD players, tee shirts, you name it and there was a shack with some in it....

The traffic flow is amazing—people walking, biking, motor biking, donkeys pulling carts (driven by boys less than teenage) and all kinds but less numerous cars, trucks, and other motor vehicles. The paved roads are two lanes, with sparse traffic lights.

This is harvest time in BF as I understand it. Between the rainy, humid season which just ended and the hot season which starts in February is this beautiful, bountiful time we are now in.

We spent two days orienting and assessing our medical meeds, language needs, and adjusting to the environment. More like culture shock! Our meals were provided in a common dining room. On the second evening our entire class was invited to the lovely and spacious home of the Assistant Peace Corps Director for a lovely dinner. Hors d'oeuvres and sodas were in abundance when we arrived, and we dove in; peanuts and crispy tortillas chips with salsa. All of a sudden a white filling on the corner of my front tooth (which I think I swallowed) was missing, which made me apprehensive to eat any more! Later I asked the host if her family had a local dentist, and they do. So that will probably be an upcoming event.

10-07-07 We received our next shots and our language tests. Right after lunch we all boarded a bus, air conditioning never felt so good, and we headed north 3 hours to our training center in Oauhigouya. We passed through several check points and finally arrived at ECLA, where we will spend the next eight weeks in classes for our volunteer work and a heavy immersion into French and Moore' tribal language, like 4 hours a day. Upon our arrival a huge group of Peace Corps staff and Africans met us with traditional toasting from shells, and an elaborate welcoming ceremony with drums and xylophone like instrument, with much dancing and music. The costumes were colorful and dramatic. The rhythms were contagious.

And there was a dance performance that was high energy and fun to watch. We were officially invited to live and work in this culture.

We spent the next two days at training learning to introduce us to life with our host families. The facilities at each succeeding place got more and more challenging. I was longing for my sons to fix the plumbing here. Leaky toilettes, sinks, showers. This felt like a test, to better prepare us for what was ahead.

We went to the castle of the regional chief of Yatenga at Ouqhigouya. We waited in the receiving room for over half an hour, when he finally entered. We all stood and zhen he sat; so did we. Siaka squatted on one knee and explained our Peace Corps mission. The chief welcomed us into his land, then he took our questions. Siaka translated the Eng for the chief and the French for most of us. The chief apologized for our wait as he was waking from a nap. Several volunteers asked him quest in French and I asked him about his people b ringing issues/disputes to him and if he has a board of little chiefs. He said the disputes are settled locally mostly and if not, then he can address them, and if not he refers them to the legal system. After several others posed questions, and he answered, the chief agreed to have a picture with us, on the condition that we share them with him. (He says he never sees them.) The chief seems like a wise older gentleman with a sense of humor. It was a memorable visit.

10-09-07

This morning we received bike training...how to take the front and back wheels off in order to patch a flat tire. In the next week I used this 3 times in 2 days! There are thorns in the fields that are dangerous for our bike tires. The lesson is to stay on the beaten path!

In the afternoon after our language class etc. we went to our villages, where the local people were gathered under a grove of trees. We numbered six to eight volunteers to each village, and at that time we were “adopted” by our host family. One bench filled with mothers and nursing babies was on our right, another bench with the village leaders, a third bench with the men, and a fourth bench for us to complete the square. The women were very colorfully dressed in pagnes and head dresses. School children stopped to watch from the background. As the PC leader, Siaka, called the family name and one of our names, we joined our host family on their spot until every one of us was “adopted”. I got very teary eyed at this was the moment my life long dream came true.

My father, Amadi, loaded all my bags on the back of his motorbike and headed off. My host mother, Orokia, and I walked home, a mile or more, greeting people all along the way, she speaking Moore' and me practicing. She laughed a lot at what was coming out of my American mouth. When we arrived at their compound, I made a total of 22 family members; 12 children, 3 grammas, 2 grandchildren, 2 mothers, 1 father, a son in law, and yours truly. There are goats and chickens running around the courtyard too.

Excitedly they showed me to my room, and everyone helped me make my bed, complete with a mosquito net. We looked through the rest of the steel box of items left by the Peace Corps, kerosene and a lamp, bleach, salt, tea, cooking oil, vinegar, sugar cubes, and bedding. The water bucket and filter system came soon thereafter. (That's what the bleach is for.)

The older teen girls, who spoke good French, asked me if I wanted to bathe. Their father was off getting a 5 gal bucket of water from the community well on his motorbike. He also had to pray, so it was dark by the time I had my first “bucket bath”. Imagine bathing under the stars in Africa, it's tricky when you know what you are doing. In the PC demonstration, the bather had clear water the entire time, it may take me a year to achieve that. It did remind me of the volume of shower water I used at home.

After my bath, I was hungry, when they brought spaghetti to my room. I picked it up to join the family, and the older daughter put it back down. We repeated this maneuver again, and I realized that I was eating alone! Eventually Fatimata, 17, took me to each part of the family compound, introducing me to the people in each space. I passed out hard candy to the children and votive candles to the women. Since it was already dark out, I could not put names and faces together. They giggled at my attempt to say a few Moore' words. That encouraged me to practice them again, and more laughter. Later we all sat on my veranda and watched the millions of stars in the African sky.

My whole village “Sumyaga” is Moslem. This time of year is filled with fasting during the day and prayer 5 times a day. The upcoming weekend is the Ramadan.

10-12-07

We returned to village to our family after 2 days of training at ECLA. Ramadan occurs after the moon was seen in the sky the previous night, then the celebration begins. All the women cooked special foods, and the men gathered to pray in the village center. We walked to the gathering place and went into a compound to meet the village chief, who wants our pictures sent to his email. Chief Abadon speaks 5 languages. As we walked back home the two little ones, Awa and Aziz let me hold their hands along the way.

Saturday and Sunday are days off from our schooling, but we trainees did meet for a tour of each volunteer's home, after which we drew a map of our village to get more familiar with the key places and our location relative to the rest. The maternity and pharmacie buildings are in the center of the common area with the head nurse's home nearby. The assistant to the nurse also lives close. The chief's house has a temple next to him. Our village has four wells scattered about.

Again we (the kids and I) sat on my porch in the evenings and discovered songs in French and Moore'. I sang “Frere Jacque” to start the entertainment, and the kids continued on....the blend of voices was so beautiful.

So I'm packing my house up with a lot of help, and will be on my way Monday morning to the Peace Corps. That is if I get my suitcases packed as well! More later. Mary Kay