As a shout out to Paraguayans everywhere! Mi corazon esta con ustedes.

It is the eve of the biggest futbol game Paraguay has ever played. World Cup - Quarter finals. I am thrilled and quite nervous. Should Paraguay advance it will create a flurry of excitement in Paraguay that I can't even begin to imagine!

Here are a few facts:

Paraguay is the only country in the world with a flag that is different on each side.

Albiroja: The name of the Paraguayan soccer jersey-see photo

As one of the underdogs in the World Cups - some have wonder what powers the Pyan team. Here is an explanation of Terere.

Three very excited Returned PCVs from Paraguay after the PY victory over Japan on Tuesday.

While in Paraguay one of my favorite foods was Chipa-Guazu: a corn, corn-meal, cheesy delight. Since returning to the U.S. I have made an Amiercanized version of chipa-guazu. Here is the recipe - try it, you'll like it!

JIFFY-GUAZU

1 box of Jiffy Corn Muffin Mix

1/3 cup milk (the wholer-the better)

2 eggs (maybe 3)

3 tbs butter

3 tbs olive oil (because I didn't have pig fat)

1 chopped onion

1/2 can of sweet corn

bunches of graded cheese - I used cheddar but anything will work!

Follow the baking instructions on the box. I made muffins but I would imagine it would be just as delicious in loaf-form.

Enjoy! Its delicious!

These are the delightful ladies I have been spending so much of my time with! I couldn't ask for better company!

I have tried throughout my experience as a Peace Corps Volunteer and since my return home to the United States, to show and tell people what Paraguay is and was like for me. I wrote about the people I have met and the relationships that formed. I posted pictures of my house, my community, my friends and even my wash bucket. I posted a few YouTube videos of what my house and neighborhood looked like. But even though all of these things can help people gain a better understanding of Paraguay and the effects it had on my life, I am sure there are still millions of things to be shown and explained.

This YouTube video was produced by a small group of Peace Corps Volunteers in Paraguay. It was for incoming volunteers to give them a better idea of what they can expect if they decide to go to Paraguay. It is another way to learn more about PY. I hope you watch it and enjoy it. I still get a little teary eyed when I watch it.

The song that is played in the background was written and performed by PCV Nick Bayard and his community contact Senor Bogado on their album El Duo de Oro (The Golden Du0). The song is titled, "Cuerpo de Paz Paraguay" (Peace Corps Paraguay) and speaks to the spectrum of activities that Peace Corps Volunteers do with and within their communities.

And you thought all of my travel adventures were over. Oh, no. Not even close! Here I am in the "mighty" small town of Nemaha, IA. Home of the tractor promenade - where tractors know how to square dance!

It is my conclusion that: the people who cover the world, are exactly the same. There are still many corners of the earth I still have great desire to see and know. Recently, my through my homecoming and reconnection to people, many things have made me chuckle to myself in the last month that I feel can only be expressed to a point – which is a great pitfall because of the richness that I feel about the “sameness” and universal-ness of people. It is only now that I have seen it first hand in a foreign land and come home with a new kind of vision (even though my eyesight has worsened). I can try to tell you a few of the things that have made me giggle-and only hope to convey the feelings they make me feel.

• Stealing water

While in Paraguay, I tried to convince Paraguayans that I was not spending two years in their country to figure out a way to steal their water. What a crazy assumption I thought, Americans would never think that. Well today at the public library, as I filled my water bottle up at the drinking fountain (an amazing novelty in the US), said to me, “Stealing our water, are you?” I almost fell over and spilled my water. I wanted to tell her how Paraguayan she sounded to me, but I knew I would not able to explain myself completely with out taking a good 10 minutes, and I didn’t think she would find it nearly as amusing as I did.

• So they say, storms come when something happens for the first time. Really?

I had never heard this term. Danielle explained that it was a phrase that campo-people use when someone does something very out of the ordinary (or out of their norm). That today it will for sure rain, or there will be a storm. It seemed like a strange old wives tale to me. Until yesterday, when Wanda of Wanda’s Beauty Salon (located next to my grandmother shop) said, “there is going to be a storm today, Francis was late for her appointment this morning – and you know that never happens!” Shocked I asked her to repeat what she said and asked if that was a common “american” phrase to use? She said, “Well, yeah. You are just a city folk. That’s why you haven’t ever heard it.” But I guess campo-paraguayans are very similar to campo-iowans!

• Who is he? Oh you know, he was in Philips class.

I am sure this is a phrase you have heard tossed around at family gatherings. When families are talking about a, somewhat known person in the community, informing the others about the latest gossip on him/her a phrase like, “Oh you know, he went to kindergarden with Paul. Usually the other family members need a frame of reference to identify this individual. Paraguayan and Americans alike use this technique to jog memories. it makes sense, it is highly effective form of “clueing” someone in. It has made me chuckle lately because this simple phrase can become a conversation of its own in any language.

• Mis-understandings happen in all languages – no matter your native tongue.

I knew that living in two foreign languages made me prone to misunderstandings. and I guess in the back of my mind I had hoped that upon my return, all confusion would subside and that clarity would come thanks to my native tongue. There would be no more random mix-ups about what kind of meat or how many kilos of onions I wanted to buy. That I would make perfect sense to everyone, and them to me! I was wrong. No such luck.

I was thrilled to be home for fall. I was planning on spending Halloween with my grandmother and great-aunt. I have always loved carving pumpkins and want to take full advantage of the “normalness” of Halloween, even if I was the youngest kid at our house that would enjoy it. The trick with carving a pumpkin is that you have to have one before you can carve it. Tricky, right? On the road to town, there was a farm that had lots of pumpkins and squash for sale on a wagon by the road. I pulled in, knocked on the front door, asked if it was true that the pumpkins were for sale and was told I could have my pick, pumpkins cost 3$ each. I found a cute one that looked like it would be well-suited to have a face. I also found a cool gord that looked potentially carve-able if I could convince it to dry right. As I walked back to the house to pay the woman she said, “oh that squash, its only a dollar.” “Great,” I said, “I love when I have cheap taste.” So I walked up to the house and handed her a 5$ bill. She took it and disappeared into the house. I waited a second, assuming she would return with my $1. She didn’t come at first so I decided to load my pumpkins into the car. I waited a bit longer by my car. Walked around the yard a bit. Still no change. I was confused to say the least, in my mind three dollars for one pumpkin plus one dollar for a squash/gord should equal four dollars. After a good 10 minutes, I threw-in the towel and called it even. No change, but I wasn’t charged 3$ for each pumpkin at least.

I was informed through the grapevine of world wide communication, and a dear peace corps friend that blogs are like sharks. if they don't keep swimming - they die.

My blog hasn't swam in some time. It has not been due to lack of activity to report - but by a lack of knowing where and how to start to tell of my adventures.

Since my last post -

I went to Colombia, met up with two fabulous friends, tour, ate, danced, swam, laid on the beach, took pictures, picked up sea shells, drank tropical drinks on the sand, met phenomenal Colombians and enjoyed myself thoroughly. Here are a few some pictures.

I then continued my adventure - and made the big return to the United States of America. Welcomed into Atlanta, GA by the "balloon boy" CNN coverage, blackberries and paper-thin laptops! Slightly overwhelmed, I continued my journey to Chicago, Midway Airport. Where I was greeted by the most amazing of welcome-wagons!

I spent a week in Chicago, enjoying fall, spending time with wonderful people and soaking in Chi-town. My mom was under the impression that I was still in Colombia on a jungle trek. My plan was to surprise her and my "jungle" turned out to be more of an "urban jungle".

My brother and I made our way to Minneapolis by Megabus - through snow and sleet. We hoped the LightRail - to a stop close to home and Mick picked us up. Still on the down-low. Willie was sitting in the living room when mom got home. She walked in and here is how it went:

M: "Oh willie, you arent supposed to be home."

W: "Yeah, I know, I just thought I would come home and surprise you and see how you are doing. Is it ok that Im home?"

M: "Oh yeah, I was feeling tired and worn out at the end of the week, and now that you are here I feel way better."

and then I walked in...

r: "Is it ok that Im home?"

she just stood there and sank into the floor a bit.

M: "Oh, Oh rachel, you arent supposed to be home yet. Its a mess here, I haven't cleaned anything yet."

She was surprised, delighted at first, until she found out that everyone knew before she did. And then the only thing she could do was call all of us, naughty. Naughty, naughty, naughty. Which lasted about an hour.

We headed north to Grand Marais to spend a weekend at Lake Superior! It was fantastic. We talked the whole way, saw (but did not hit) 12 deer and got to ride in the fancy new van!

I have been home about a month now. It is still strange that everyone speaks English (especially in public), I am still very excited about the fully-equipped (free) bathrooms and even more so about spending time with the people I have missed.

I have been spending time with my grandmother and great-aunt. Being together and doing whatever it is they ask. Tonight is my turn to make dinner.

Until soon.

If only I could find a good place to start to explain the adventures I have had in the last week! But im afraid no matter what I say, it wont do it justice. But ill give it a go anyway.

I am sitting in the Lima airport, drinking the largest cup of starbucks chai tea I could buy! I am more than content with life! (Starbucks isnt my favorite local coffee shop - but man does my chai taste like home!) It was a bit of a splurge - my PC readjustment allowance is running out fast! Its amazing how many cool and delicious things one can find to spend their money on, when on vacation!

Alright - about my adventures!

It all started last monday (my first day in Cusco). I arrived on an over-night bus from Arequipa (my new favorite Latin American city). After finding a hostel and dropping off my stuff, I left to see some of the city. I met a travel buddy on the bus and we were staying at the same hostel so we decided to explore a bit together. We walked around the city, visited the Plaza de Armas and went to visit the Inca fortress up on the hill. Cusco was orignially spelled Qosqo in Quechua - but like most indigenous langages when translated to spanish (or english or whatever) lots of things get changed. According to the Incas, Cusco was the center of the world - its ombligo or belly-button. It is located in a valley and it is said to have been designed in the shape of a Puma.

It was a full day of walking around and seeing the sights. Due to the altitude (and the fact that I was on antibiotics) and even with a few coats of sunscreen, I managed to get a bit toasted by the sun. I took the morning to think about my options for my week. There are tons of outdoor activities to do in and around Cusco (hiking, rafting, parachuting, bungie jumping - the last wasnt at the top of my list...but the others were!) I was undecided how would be the best way to spend my 6 days in Cusco. I knew I wanted to do some hiking and definately wanted to visit Machu Picchu but didnt know what woudl be best. After some serious thinking I decided that a longer hike to Machu Picchu was what I had been needing.

After lunch I started looking for the right tour agency that would take me on the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu, a 5 day, 4 night ¨trek¨ (see my explination of trek below) There are millions of tour agencies in Cusco, ranging from small outfitters to huge tour companies. Most of them offer pretty much the exact same tour for almost the same price. The trick about booking a tour (at least now, during low season) was to NOT book ahead. If i have booked my tour in advance it would have cost about 450$. But because I just arrived and started asking around, it was only 180$. (A pretty serious difference - which is good on a tight budget and when you find out the transportation at the end of the day story)

By late afternoon I had talked to bunches of tour companies and gotten the scoop on prices, departure dates and what was included in a tour. Because I was a solo-traveler, tour companies were hesitant to take me because they prefer when you travel with a friend. Which is fine, but didnt help my self-esteem when they asked, ¨well, couldnt you find a friend?¨ (I thought to myself: Um...no. Im traveling alone. Dont you have other people that want to hike and make new friends?? Please, it is unnecessary to make me feel like shit. Thank you, Ill find another agency.)

I found a company that was: 1. nice to me 2. had good prices 3. A departure date for the next day 4. an all inclusive package. It seemed like a winner to me. So I ran to the ATM and got my mula and signed up. I just need to make a few arrangements, pack my bag and get some sleep. Easy I thought.

Not so slick.

I needed to book a bus ticket to leave sunday (the day after my return from the ¨Trek¨) to Lima (a 22+ hour bus ride, 40$) I was sure there should be a bus leaving sometime in the moring that would get me into Lima on time for my 12:30 flight to Bogota (the one Im waiting for now). The people at the hostel were unsure of the departure times so I had to run (take a taxi) to the terminal and check out the bus schedules. At the terminal I found out that there was only one bus, leaving at 8am that was ¨scheduled¨ to arrive by 7am the following morning in Lima. However, Peru is entering its rainy season and there can often be bus delays. And the only bus that was leaving was very similar to Paraguayan (shit-excuse me) buses. The other option was a one-way (130$) flight to Lima. Considering my options, of maybe having to cancel my (already paid) for trip to Salkantay to get back for the bus or bite the bullet and get a plane ticket, I decided on the plane ticket.

It was already about 8:30pm at this time (remember I only half slept on the bus the night before) and was needing dinner, still didnt have my plane ticket bought or bag packed for the trek, needed to buy some snacks and toilet paper. I was starting to get a bit wigged out. I tried to buy my ticket online but the prices jumped 70$ when LAN found out I wasnt Peruvian and the only way to get the ticket for the lower price was to pay for it at the LAN office the next day. (My tour was scheduled to pick me up at 4:30am the next more...no time for an office visit). I was lucky enough to be staying at a hostel with highly helpful and friendly employees who said he could run and pay for my ticket the next day. Saved.

All that was left was packing and sleeping (and emailing my mom so she did worry about me while I was gone!)

Packed and in bed by 12pm. Unfortunately I had swolloed a bit of tap water while brushing my teeth and my stomach kept me up most of the night with its dance marathon.

4:15am rolled around, and the bus arrived early to pick me up. I threw my clothes on and hoped on the bus. My stomach was still prepping its Cir de Sole routines as we picked up the other members of the trip. Closing my eyes and praying to anyone who would listen that it would pass. We picked up 15 other people and headed to Mollepata (the start spot for our trek).

Upon arrival I visited the restrooms a number of times and seriously considered throwing in the towel and heading back to Cusco. But after such an ordeal the night before and my excitement for the hike I didnt want to think about not getting to hike. So I took a bit of stomach meds and drank a bunch of water and hoped for the best. By the time the group had eaten breakfast, sunscreened-up and bought their last snickers bar - I was feeling like a new woman! I was shocked how fast the meds kicked in and I was ready to take on the trail!

(The following post will have details about the actual trek...and MACHU PICCHU!!!)

Trek - it might just be me, but i have noticed that among travelers (the outdoorize ones) like to discuss their past and future trips and adventures when they first meet. But there is an underlying competition that isnt directly discussed but arrises out of the conversation about TREKS. What is a Trek? I have poled a few fellow travelers and the definitions vary, but if you ask me its just a pumped up word that means ¨walking in the woods¨. But you can have a discussion with other hard-core travelers about, how many days they ¨walked in the woods¨ because that would sound wimpy. Its much better to talk about your ¨trek¨ to Machu Picchu or your ¨trek¨ through the jungle. Clearly as outdoor-adventurers, trekking is the thing to do because we are not just strolling through the park.

Just a quick note...

Im having a fabulous time! I spent the weekend in Arequipa, Peru. (my new favorite south american city) I just arrived to Cuzco this morning and had a packed day of walking around, ruins visiting and searching for a tour to Machu Picchu.

I found one! I am off to hike for 5 days to Machu Picchu on the Salkantay Trail. I will have lots to share when I get back!

I am safe and (almost well from my terrible cough-thanks to my email Dr. Michelle)

Love to all!

r.

I have just spent a very relaxing 5 days (Until wednesday) in the Cordillera Blanca of the Peruvian Andes! It was wonderful and phenomenally beautiful! I did a few day hikes but no serious trekking. It was great for reading, reflecting and enjoying nature!

I also got to visit a Peruvian Peace Corps Volunteer living in a tiny village (30 families) in the mountains outside of Yungay. I got to meet her host family, see her community and eat some delicious home cooking! It was very interesting comparing PC-Paraguay and PC-Peru.

This was the size plane I rode in....and the reason I got a little woozie!

This morning I took a flight into the past...

I arrived mid-morning in Nazca, Peru - Home of the Nazca Lines. The Nazca lines are these crazy drawings in the desert. No one really knows why they are there or how they got there. There are many theories explaining their exsistance ranging from alien landing pads to underground irrigation ditch markings. But there is no general theory of explination that is agreed upon. So, I (and you) get to think whatever we want about why they are there!

This morning we took about a half-hour flight to see the images outside of Nazca (there are also lines in Palpa). And they were just as amazing and incredible as you might imagine. They were a little smaller than I thought they would be, but still impressively large!

The plane did a lot of leaning to each side to give us the best view possible - but mostly just gave us all the tummy shakes. I was very glad to have seen them, but the motion-sickness didnt have me lining up for another flight opportunity!

Here are a few of the designs

The spider

The Monkey - my favorite!

For more information about the Nazca Lines - visit wikipedia.

These are also not my pictures, I will try to get mine up soon!

After my time in the mountains (Huras, Peru - about 8 hours north of Lima). I headed south - with the end goal of making it to Cuzco and Machu Picchu but with a few great stops along the way. I had heard of Huacachina, a desert oasis just a bit in from the Pacific Ocean coast. Its fame is spread over all Peru - thanks to its apperance on the back of the 50Soles bill. I almost decided mid-bus trip to pass it up and keep on the move to Nazca, but luckily I didnt change my mind.

Huacachina is about 2km from the town of Ica (which is an actual city). It is this crazy little oasis, the former playground for the Peruvian elite. Now it is just a tourist destination - pero CON RAZON!

My Lonely Planet had mentioned the sand dunes and the potential sandboarding. However I wasnt sure that it would be for me. Was I WRONG!!! I took a dune buggy tour, which turned out to be the thrill of a lifetime! It was like a roller-coaster but with the added adrenaline that there was actually nothing but gravity stopping us from tumbling/flipping down the dunes! It was crazy wonderful! I laughed and screamed harder than i have in a longtime!

And then if that was not enough of a thrill, we got to go sandboarding. It was like snowboarding - but on sand. I tried it standing up two or three times, but i was kind of a chicken so I went down on my stomach on the board (like sledding!)all of the rest of the times. But the crazy thing was, was that the hills were almost vertical drops. So I thought I might die...but luckily...i didnt!

It was SOOOO much fun! I now want to try snowboarding when i get home.

These are not my pictures. I wasnt able to download the pictures I took - but I will try to get them up soon!

Still with a little sleep in my eyes - I arrived safely to Oruro via TRAIN!!

The mom from the family I stayed with came to meet me and went to the Aguas Termales to have a medicinal dip!

Check out those ups!

This cactus could be my twin - they grow about a cm a year!

Some of the cacti on the island are over a1,000 years old!

Salt of the earth?

Salty or sweet? Or together?

The only salt flat in the world viewable from space (not that I can verify that) is in Uyuni, Bolivia. And I was there yesterday!

It looks like a lot of snow! But it doesnt melt. 12,000kilometers squared....thats a lot of salt.

The flats were formed many many many moons ago when most of south american was still under water. A lake was formed as the continents rose leaving a salty lake. The water has over millions of years, evaporated! Leaving miles and miles of salt.

I got to spend a day taking in its beauty!

When I arrived in Potosi, I headed to the center of town - up hill for the first time in all of Bolivia. Usually the center of town is at the bottom of the hill or in a valley. My first stop was the Casa de la Moneda (House of Money) where the silver from Cerro Rico (the mine) was manufactured into coins. It was a huge building, lots of old coins.

Cerro Rico was discovered to llorar lagrinmas de plata (cry tears silver) by an indigenous man (Inca, I believe)...and the story goes: Señor Inca was a sheep herder and had lost a sheep. He had to go up on to the hill to look for it, but he wasnt able to find it before nightfall. So he had to spend the night on the hill. He made a fire and was spooked by the shiny rocks. He ran down the hill and tell his friend who lives close to the bottom of the hill. They go see it together and realize that is plata (silver). For them plata does not have a monetary value, it is only used for decoration. When the Spanish white man came the friend of Señor Inca tells the Spanish that the Cerro cries plata as a peace offering. In about 1530 the spanish start to mine for silver. (By they I do not mean, the actual spanish men were doing the work!) They became the owners of themine and enslaved thoursands of indigenous and brought african slaves to work in the mine. The african slaves died within a day of working within the mine and were used then to work outside of the mine to process the minerals and manufacture the coins.

They say that you could build a bridge of silver from Potosi, Bolivia to Spain with the amount of silver that has been extracted. Btu they also say that you build a bridge from Potosi to Spain of bones because of the number of people who have been killed in the mine and with the processing of the silver. Terrible.

The mine continues to be mined to day. Now (during a slow period-when there isnt high demand for silver on the market andlarge pockets of the mineral arent being found) about 1,000-1,500 men are working in the mine everyday. In high times, there can be up to 5-6,000 men working in the mine. There are 3 shifts that are worked in the mine: 7am-1pm, 1pm-7pm and 7pm-11pm. (Sometimes, howeverthe men stay and sleep in the mine). Men (boys) start working the mine at age 12 or so. And then are only able to work until age 35 because their lungs are shot.

I heard varying details on how much the workers are paid, all depending on how much they extrat at any given time. It can be anywhere from 70Bolivians (1dollar) an hour to 70Bolivians (1dollar) a day.

Men and only men work in the mine, because the Cerro (hill/mine) is a woman and she gets jealous if other women are working in her. The men work for cooperatives, each cooperative cworks certain mine shafts (the mine has over 400 different shafts/tunnels). Most cooperatives provide no health care or respadtory mask.

Hard work, we are lucky that there are other typesof work in the world. And it makes me think twice about silver jewlrey.

The adventure of getting a mine tour was a story within its self. There are tons of tour companies offering certified safe tours. I found one offering a tour that afternoon which would work perfectly with my bus schedule. I was alone so the guiding company offered me a female guide so that I would feel comfortable. When I got to the office for the time of pick-up, the office was closed and locked with the worlds biggest padlock. Uh.o. So I waited a bit and the organizer showed up eventually but the guide hadnt comeout of the mine yet from her morning tour. It was now already 2:30pm...NOT a good sign. So it looked for a bit that there would be no mine tour. Bummer. But then I wouldnt have to force myself to do the scariest thing of my trip so far.

Deep breath, I thought I was free. I had given it a good go and could say I tried and goutten out easy.

Wrong.

They founda guide from another agency who could do it. A little more waiting and she arrived. Ceila Santos, la unica - (Celia, the one and only) she presented herself. I liked her from that first moment. A tiny woman, at least a head shorter than me, with a seriousness about guiding that put me at ease. She talked to the goofy tour organizer ike she knew her stuff which was encouraging. So we started out.

We started to head up the hill to the equipo (outfit) rental place (a butch shop named Hong Kong in the front, equipment rental in the back - normal...right?)

We bought water and cigarettes to give to the miners (and el tio) and headed into the mine. They didnt have coca leaves (to give as an offering to the tio) to buy but we decided to risk it and went in anyway. When we got about 75meters into the mine there was the tio. The guardian. The god of the mine. Miners make their offerings to him for protection, strength and a safe return out of the mine.

2 cigarettes - because tio smokes

Coca Leaves- for their scared value as an offering to el tio and to the La Pacha Mama (mother earth in Quechua) the giver of all things as an offering of thanks

Alcohol drops on the ground that they might find the mineral

Alcohol on his shoulders that they might have strength and not tire

Alcohol on his penis that they will be fertil and roduce offspring to continue to live in Potosi

All the time asking for a safe return out of the mine.

They take a wig of alcohol/whiskey and pass it around their compañeros. They do this when they can (not everyday, but often) We did as well. Minus the drinking alcohol part.

We walked into the mine. Pitch black, cool and damp. Having to bend a bit so not to hit our heads. We had to get out of the way 3 or 4 times to let the little train cart pass. We saw large holes in the wall where they had used dynamite to blast through the walls to extract the mineral. And tunnels to deeper shafts to bring the mineral up from lower levels.

The higher on the hill the cooler it is inside. The lower down, the hotter it gets.

A little shaky (only from the altitude of course, and maybe a bit from the mine) we walked deeper. There were some places where there was standing water almost to our ankles. Water that comes when it rains. There are drainage pipes so that it doesnt get to deep, but the water levels can get to be waist deep.

Possibly my favorite part of the tour was when Celia said ¨Bueno, solo hasta aqui - tenemos que regresar ahora¨ (Ok, only to here, we have to go back now).

I made it out safe and sound. A little shaken, but happy to have had the experience.

On our walk down the hill Celia and I started to talk more and realized we have lots in common. She wants to travel and tour guide in other places and loves studying cultures and peoples and wants to speak more english. I volunteered any english that I can teach via email and the deal was sealed.

We went to find api (the most amazing bolivian drink) Sweet, cinnamony corn drink. Wild but wonderful. WWe had our snack before my bus. She took me to pick up my things, and then to the bus stop and waited with me until I got on. I felt like I had founda kindered spirit. And she agreed to teach me some Quechua (it will have to be an online course, of course.)

Dinosaur footprints from about 75million years ago!

AHHHHH....Dinos!

El Mercado Central de Sucre

Lots of Fruit

Masks from around Bolivia

The Bolivian Declaration of Independance

Me in the Silver Expo

I arrived in La Paz, Bolivia on September 4th. I didnt have any problems getting my Bolivian visa, all of the paper work was in order. It was just a matter of forking out 135$ to get through to customs. But I can now say that it was worth it!

I spent one day in La Paz, finding it surprisingly hard to walk and talk. The altitude did affect me luckily in some ways more than others. I had a bad headache but never had to see my lunch make a return apperance. I stuck around La Paz long enough to see one of the main plazas get a bite to eat and scope out the terminal for the upcoming trips.

Saturday morning I left La Paz (and the nausia behind) and headed east to Cochabamba. It was about a 7 hour bus trip but the scenary was spectacular! Deserts, hills, straight road, super curvy road, llamas, sheeps and lots of people with brightly colored clothing. I was riding in a double-decker bus and had the extreme pleasure of having the front seat of the bus!

It was wonderful!

Sunday, the day after I arrived was pedestrian day - no cars allowed. So Alvaro and I went on a bike tour of the city. It was the perfect way to get to know the city, breath some fresh air and ride a bike! It was perfect!

When I arrived in Cochabamba, I was greeted by Alvaro a good friend of a friend of mine from the PC.

Now, you may have heard of Latino hospitality, but I have been schooled in what it means to invite someone into your home and treat them as a long lost best friend. Alvaro, his mom and sister took phenomenal care of me for 5 days. I was able to rest, see the city, visit some museums, try many amazing new foods! learn to cook some new foods! (see the Sopa de Mani below). And just hangout with real Bolivians and not be a tourist, just a human.

The road to Cochabamba - the flat part

From the top of Cerro San Cristobal - I didnt know that there was something looking out for me while I was in Santiago!

The fountain at Santa Lucia Park

The reading room at the Santiago National Library! Since my time in Horqueta, I am drawn to bibliotecas!

...with my mate.

Dad found this highly entertaining. It seems very normal to me.

me and my first travel buddy!

Los Saltos de Petrohue

loving it!

me...being a REI model

I applied for my bolivian visa in paraguay about 2 months ago. and when i picked it up they told me that i could just get the actual visa at the airport, no problem. But sometimes when they say, ¨Ya esta todo¨ they dont really mean, everything is ready. So, since i had a little extra time, and i wanted to double check. I decided to head to the Bolivian Embassy to make sure that they would let me in to Bolivia. But it turned out to be not a quick trip. Mapquest made it look pretty easy to find and I figured i could ask for directions but it turned out the be ab bit of a crazy search for the bolivian embassy. i found it, but walked ALOT! It was a lovely walk, but i got off the metro about 4 stops too soon. so i was WAY out of the way. but didnt really know it. i was on the right street. But due to the funny numbering, I kinda keep thinking that it was just around the corner! it was eventually, just around the corner. They were very helpful and said i should have no problem getting my visa at the airport. (because neither in paraguay or chile do the embassies have visas to give out-how weird).

im staying in a really cute, hip hostel. I have meet some wonderful people and crazy travelers. I keep meeting Aussies who are on an around the world trip-for a year! i cant even imagine that! I think 2 months is a long time! I have had two very international dinners so far - that kind of sound like the beginning of a bad joke: so there are french guy, a chilean guy, a canadian guy, an australian gal and an american gal in a bar...

But it is making for great fun and wonderful convesation!

Being on vacation has a danger of forgetting what the date is and what day is what. I just realized that I get another day in Santiago! I thought i was to fly to bolivia on Thursday, but it turns out that its on friday! So a little more Chile time! Not half bad!

im staying in a really cute, hip hostel. I have meet some wonderful people and crazy travelers. I keep meeting Aussies who are on an around the world trip-for a year! i cant even imagine that! I think 2 months is a long time! I have had two very international dinners - that kind of sound like the beginning of a bad joke: so there is a french guy, a canadian guy, an australian gal and an american gal in a bar...

But it is making for great fun and wonderful convesation!

Being on vacation has a danger of forgetting what the date is and what day is what. I just realized that I get another day in Santiago! I thought i was to fly to bolivia on Thursday, but it turns out that its on friday! So a little more Chile time! Not half bad!

im going to read and journal this afternoon. i had a big walk around this morning so i dont really feel the need to go anywhere now.

I have made friends with the cleaning lady and the handyman that work here at the hostel. I got to eat lunch with them! and had my clothes washed!! HOW AMAZING! i turned them in at 1030 and they just came back clean and dried. amazing! i love technology!

Leaving Paraguay on Friday morning was sad. I cried as the plane took off - knowing that so many of my friends will never get to see Paraguay from the air or have a chance to see what I will see. Being a tourist now, is fun. But there is a part of me that is pained with the harsh reality that many are not as lucky as I am. I wish, as hard as I can wish, that i would be able to take them (my friends and most of all, kids club) with me on a giant field trip, to see the world. But unfortuantely, I dont think that is very managable, at least for now. So in the mean time, post cards will have to do.

I am in Valparaiso, Chile. It is on the Pacific Coast.

We got here this morning around noon. Its beautiful. Its a pretty industrial. It had its big hay-day between 1883-1915. And died down after the Panama Canal, because it didnt need to be the stop off point between Cape Horn and California. It is built on a hill, and all of the houses are brightly painted (i dig it!). And it is sorta like San Fransico, in the sense that all the streets are steep and windy. And houses are precariously placed on the hill and look like they might fall off. (I doubt they will, but the streets are soooo steep they are tricky to drive on).

The ocean is beautiful, looks like Lake Michigan, but smells salty! I feel like I can almost see Australia. We are staying in a very cute neighborhood. There are many little artisan shops! Tons of them have great wool products and felted wool (I havent bought anything yet, but Im not sure how much longer i can restrain myself??).

This is who came to see me off last wednesday night.

Post this picture there were lots of hugs and tears. We all cried.

Maura and Matias with their letter from Carol!

Morelia with her letter from Fran

Karina with her letter from Camp Stanhope

As part of my final push at the end of the miracle mile. I wrapped up the Petunia Plana Project (Flat Stanley). The letters got temporally hidden in my house, but the cleaning process uncovered them! These are kids getting and reading their letters! They loved it!

Thank you! to Laura, Carol and Fran for helping with this project! The kids loved their pictures and said they might write...we will see!

There were lots of things (and people) i wanted to take home with me. This one being the big one!

There would have been NO way we could have moved all the furniture in less than 5 loads without a truck! People think pcvs dont have a lot of stuff...that was not true in my case!

matias helping move!

I fly out of paraguay on friday. Thats two days away! WOW!

Its hard to believe that I am now an RPCV (returned peace corps volunteer) even though I have not technically returned. I feel like I have over stayed my welcome in Asuncion and its time to go home to Horqueta. Even though when I start to really think about it, I remember that there is no more home.

The watermelon house has been emptied and locked up. The owner of my house has decided not to rent it out anymore and that her son is to move in and start a bakery. (Se dicen). Last monday and wednesday we moved all of my furniture to barbara's new house and gave away everything that wasnt absolutely necessary for my travels over the next two months. Most things went to PCVs with a few prized items to my close Pyan friends.

I am homeless.

I feel a bit purposeless.

Hopefully neither will last too long!

This past weekend we had our group Despedida and Close of Service Ceremony. We celebrated with the most amazing cake in all of paraguay at the office on friday. The Director and our APCD (boss) said a few kind words. We were given certificates and PC pins, and it was over. It was pretty anti-climatic.

I am spending my final hours with my host-family from trainning. They are who helped usher me into paraguay and are helping usher me out. They will help take me to the airport on friday. There will be many tears, i image.

From here on out i will be traveling through the end of october/beginning of november. I will be maintaining my blog with updates on my latest adventures. Please keep reading if you are interested.

Thank you to everyone who has kept up with me and commented about my adventures! It has made my life richer and my experiences more fufilling knowing you are sharing them with me.

It took a lot of tries to get almost all of them to look and smile!

Me and Na Ameila making chipa! This is our finished produced! It rose very nicely! I made a Chipa of her!

July 30th

To celebrate friendship Paraguayans have picked one special day a year when they spend extra money text messaging their buddies, get together to share snacks or maybe a bbq.

One of the most popular friendship day activity is Amigos Invisibles (Invisible friends or Secret Santas). My neighbor ladies decided they wanted to celebrate together! We organized a name-drawing and invited all of the Senoras over for shared muchies at my house last Friday. It was a blast! We had 19 Senoras (two girls ages 12-13) come to share gifts, snacks and friendship! It was a lovely get-together!

Here are all of the good-looking ladies!

Mark your calendars! End of July 2010...RAGBRAI...get ready! I have already started my not-so-intensive training program!

This was taken while sitting in Danita’s hammock drinking mate as the sun starts to make its long trip across the fiery sky!

In addition to two peace corps volunteers, Horqueta is home to one KOCIA volunteer! Kai, as he is locally know is from South Korea and has decided to spend two years hanging out, culturally exchanging and teaching computer classes! In adition to being great for Paraguayans, we think its pretty great too!

Two weeks ago Kai invited Barbara and I for a Korean dinner! Oh man was it phenomenal!

Amazingness!

Eating directions

Glass bottle + bicycle brake cable + a lot of elbow grease = glass

1 bar glicerin soap, 1 liter of water and 1 egg = shampoo

Danita and giggling kids!

Danielle came to camp to teach us about healthy foods and teeth brushing!

And what happens when you get a cavity!no good! (look at her face!)

Friday was science day! We did a team activity where teams had to make some sort of contraption to protect their egg!

Barbara the big dropper!

What happens when there is no protection!

Team 1

Team 2

Team 3

Team 4

Team 5

Team 6

The big drop!

Faster and whether their mothers want them to or not?

Taking this into consideration - Barbara and I decided we might be able help ease the process a little bit. We decided to take advantage of the winter vacations by putting together a three-day workshop for girls ages 12-16. We discussed: Self-esteem, Leadership, Decision-making, Health and Protecting Ourselves. The pictures below are mostly from the last day when we discused the changes that happen with our bodies, knowing ourselves and protecting our bodies. At the end of the work-shop the girls all recieved Certificates for their participation and then agreed to help us run our ¨Little Kid¨Camp.

On our health day we had Danielle Murry as our honored guest speaker. She came to explain the uncomfortable topics of bodies, changes and protect with delicacy and most importantly...in GUARANI. This made our girls far more comfortable than Barbara and I ever could in Spanish. Some of these pictures are a little ridiculous - please remember we were trying to be a little goofy to take the edge off (ie. see my EEE cup size).

I experienced puberty - fast (and again)

Pre-workshop. Getting things ready. This would be one sad man!

Learning to identify all of the parts of the female body and why we have them

A little humor...and a new take on ¨pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey¨

Proud Profes - and our lindo Certificados!

This is just a small representation of the activities we did. (and the more humorous photos). Self-esteem is just kind of hard to photograph!

Ahecha Paraguay made it 4th appearence on its National Tour at the Alianza Francaise (French Cultural Center). Here are a few photos of the evening.

(The actual photo exhibit might look familiar....it was previously in exhibition at the Paraguayan/American Cultural Center, Villa Mora Shopping Mall and the United States Embassy and soon to come...The Terminal of Asuncion)

Welcome to Ahecha Paraguay

The Exhibit and snacks!

Some photos

Words of Welcome and Thanks!

L to R: Jen Cheng (Ahecha Founder), Natalie Bloom (Current Ahecha Coordinator), Director of the Board of the Alianza Francaise, Giselle Pasamonte (Dedicated Ahecha Board Member), Fernand Defournier (Director of the Alianza Franciase), Me, David Schmitz (Dedicated Ahecha Board Member)

Giving words of Thanks!http://www.alianzafrancesa.edu.py/cultural_detalle.php?key=129

I have had some incidental learning (well LOTS actually) happen since I have been in Paraguay. But one of the biggest things I hope to take home with me is my Simple Things Calendar. In mid April of 2008 I reached a low point in my service, I started to feel like things weren´t adding up and I wasnt accomplishing anything. I was busy but it didnt mean anything. I decided that if I could write down all of the little things that happen in my day I could visualize all the things I was doing. So thanks to the PC office I had lots of poster paper at my house that I was able to make into large calendars. At the end of each day - I started to write down all the good things that happened in my day. And at the end of the month it was possible to see how many great things had happened.

The picture above is me and (maybe hard to see) but lots and lots of Simple Things Calendars laid out on the floor. These calendars have made a huge difference in my morale and have inspired me to keep going on the rough days! I have had a few fellow volunteers tell me that they have started their own Simple Things calendars and they are making a difference in their services as well! How awesome!

Maybe you want to try it too?

I took a mini-vacation for the 4th of July to visit my good G-buddy Andrea Smith. Andrea lives in a small town, about two hours on a dirt road in the middle of almost no where. Paso Yobai is surrounded by beautiful rolling hills and reminded me a lot of the town from the Disney movie Beauty and the Beast (minus Guston).We cooked a ¨traditional¨ 4th of July feast: cheese burgers, potato salad, pasta salad, chips and dip and Coca-Cola! And carrot cake for dessert! We were able to share our great traditional food with Andrea´s neighbors! It was delicious!

Andrea and Leti (her neighbor) cooking up a storm!

The bus to Pasa Yobai (I actually took a different one - but isnt this one beautiful??)

ARe you interested in participating in another fabulous project happening in Paraguay? The PC-Paraguay is putting on its 4th annual Library Management Workshop! Last year, Fany (my best friend and Horquetas only public librarian) went to this workshop to give a talk about how our library works and the ups and downs we have had! It is a great opportunity for communities who are starting libraries to see how it works, get ideas and get modivated! Fany will be speaking at this year`s workshop - unfortuantely I will not be able to accompany her!

If you are interested in donating....please visit: Peace Corps website (www.peacecorps.gov), click "Donate Now" on the left side button, and find the project by entering the information:Project Number: 526-195Library WorkshopAmy Dickinson (Coordinator)New YorkParaguay

Your donation will be tax-deductible.

Thanks!

Things are good here, we are in the middle of winter vacation and running kids camps all over the place. Today we just finished a 3-day older girl camp where we talked about self-esteem, leadership, decision-making and health. It went great! and we are really tired but super pleased with how it turned out! Tomorrow we started little kid camp where we do more art projects, games, songs and fun fun fun! I am running things with my site mate, Barbara (fellow peace corps volunteer – she is working in urban youth development!) She is a funny gal – really sweet and a fun time! She has been living in my city since the end of April. We are getting along quite well and really enjoy each other’s company! I feel like I am in my last miracle mile and im sprinting to the finish line. My worst fear is that I am going to reach the 14th of august and feel like I could have done XYZ or been better at XX?? I want to leave nothing left to give! pictures to come soon!