"The story of life is this: static. One hand is always fighting the other hand"

Here in Burkina Faso (Koudougou specifically) about two weeks ago, an altercation between a high school student and a police officer turned violent. The officer found out about a relationship between said student and a young lady. This so angered him that he thought it necessary to beat the living dog shit out of the student.

I wasn't present during all of this, so perhaps it's not right to comment on the nature of said beating. However, considering the student died the next day in the hospital; I'm going to guess that it was more than just a slap on the wrist.

What a horrible thing to happen. Those who have sworn to protect turning upon the public is something we never want to see. But it gets worse.

"Always do the right thing"

"That's it?"

"That's it."

The police claim that the student died of meningitis.

Most of the High Schools in the country have been on strike since then. Student's striking is rather common here. The average age of students is several years older than those in the US. So I'm not speaking about 13 and 14 year olds. Demonstrations were held in Koudougou and Ouahigouya. I've heard that in the past week that demonstrations have occured as far South as Gaoua, and as far North as Dori. Several of these turned violent, and I believe that the current count it 5 dead. Though this depends on who you talk to, and I haven't been able to get my hands on a newspaper.

On the 7th, the turmoil hit home when students burned the police headquarters of my normally tranquil town. I was sitting on a neighbors porch and could see the column of smoke about 1K away. Thankfully nobody was hurt. It was a surreal day. Much of the destructive protesting was finished by noon, and things calmed down. It was business as usual in the rest of the town. Businesses in the immediate vicinity closed down for several hours but reopened following the mayhem.

The 8th was International Women's Day. There was a parade, speeches, dancing and singing. It was bizarre to see the festival like astmosphere when tires were burning in the same streets 24 hours before.

I'm not taking sides on this one. I'm trying very hard not to editorialize as this is a terrible thing that has happened. Though I'm frustrated with the school closings as I want to get back to work. This kind of thing affects everyone here: from primary school students to international aid workers.

I tried to explain the concept of a snow day to some of my primary school girls. They seemed baffled by the idea that we were excited to have a day off from school.

"Well, gentlemen, the way I see it, if this hot weather continues, it's going to melt the polar caps and the whole wide world. And all the parts that ain't water already will surely be flooded."

(aside: I am very much safe and believe that the Peace Corps has done a wonderful job keeping us informed. We've got a wonderful security staff here. Our security is absolutely paramount.)

While I never considered myself the type to blog, I'm going to commit myself to putting out more entries. Why? you ask? Why would I sit in front of a computer when I could be exploring a new culture, trying new foods, and horribly botching local language? The answer: I do it for you.

HERE IS WHAT I ACCOMPLISHED IN 2010 (feel free to laud my accomplishments and acknowledge my prowess):

1.Became conversational in French (enough to confuse party-goers in Juan le Pins with my West African Accent)

2.Was displaced from my original Peace Corps site

3.Biked from Yako to Bobo Dioulassou 300K+ in 5 days

4.Started a soap making group with a local women's group

5.Started a girls computer club

6.Convinced children outside of my site mate's house that yelling "Bonjour!" is more likely to get them candy than "Nassara bon bon!"

7. Saw my family for a wonderful 2 weeks in Southern France. (not really an accomplishment, but worth noting)

8. Stayed relatively disease free.

HOPES FOR 2011:

1. Become a language powerhouse capable of writing scholarly articles in French and Mooré

2. Continue working and integrating in Yako

3. Bike to Ouahigouya, and then to Ouaga

4. Continue and expand my current activities to more schools

5. Convince children that "Bonjour, Monsieur Johnson" is the preferred way to greet me.

6. Meet a beautiful, multi-lingual, Italian doctor who is thoroughly impressed with my rugged African lifestyle.

7. See my family again

8. Stay relatively disease free.

I'd give you more of an update on my activities but I'm running out of minutes at the cyber-cafe. Happy New Year to all!

Mosque in Yako:

So how are things going? I haven't written much on my new site, as I haven't had much time. I'll start by saying that I absolutely adore my new site, and I believe that there was in fact a silver lining to this whole evacuation business. For starters, my new house is spectacular. Here's a short video tour of the place:

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We celebrated Thanksgiving here last month. About 12 of us got together for the holiday. Using a large metal pot, some bricks, and charcoal, I managed to fashion an oven. We used this to bake a 14lb turkey, and 2 apple pies. We of course had all the other accoutrements that the availability of ingredients would allow: Mashed potatoes, green beans, stuffing, and cranberry sauce from the can. I tried out a new recipe from Saveur Magazine as well, curried creamed onions. They were a hit and were very easy to make. We all ate far too much, drank a bit too much wine, and fell asleep on my porch. It was a nearly perfect Thanksgiving, except for the stark absence of football.

I have a site mate in Yako as well. This worked out rather well as we are good friends. He is a volunteer at the high school, and has been a lot of help getting my computer lab set up at my primary school.

Oh yea, I should mention. I have a computer lab at one of my primary schools. It's the first time I've seen computers at a primary school, and will be a great opportunity for a girls club. As a matter of fact, our first meeting is in 2 days. I spoke with the director of my school and had her select 10 of her most successful CM2 (6th grade) girls. We've got 5 computers and that is all that I think I can handle at the moment. This club will promote the girls' interest in science, math, and technology, as well as give them an early introduction to computers.

Aside from this I've been working with the mother's association at another school. We have been throwing ideas back and forth as to how to earn some money for the school. The school lacks a nice latrine, and a water pump. They currently have a well. They also lost several hundred kilos of beans to infestation. Kids who are fed have more incentive to come to school, and are able to pay better attention. We decided that we would start by making and selling liquid soap. Our first batch was 14L and sold within a day. This next round we'll be making around 70L. Word has spread quickly that our group makes good quality soap.

So things are rather busy at the moment, and hopefully will become more so as I continue my service. I'd like to host a full out girls camp or conference with exceptional girls from throughout the region.

I'll probably stay put for Christmas, and throw a party for volunteers on New Year's eve. Thanks for reading, hope you are enjoying the snow.

It just so happens that the 2pm bus from Bobo to Ouaga is full up. This means I'll be taking the first bus tommorow morning. The Bobo office has cleared out. I was left with a package of real coffee, and a French press. Needless to say I'm in the mood to write.

Let us talk for a moment about Islam. Or rather, let me write, and you can read. I don't consider myself an expert on this topic. However, I do believe that my experiences overseas are of value to those who would otherwise remain in the dark regarding one of the most hotly debated topics of our generation. I would like to start by saying: Dear Americans, if you are not Muslim, or have studied the Muslim faith, then you know very little about the topic and should not speak your mind regarding it. Before you even open your mouth, do some research, and listen to those who are more informed than you. But wait, thats not good enough either. Listen to many, many people and sources who know more than you, and then ask questions. Be scholarly. This way you can avoid people who would provide you with divisive misinformation, and come to your own conclusions. There is positively nothing wrong with admitting you are clueless on a topic, and opening your mind.

For those who feel they learned everything they need to know about Islam on 9/11, I beg of you. Please. Go and do some reading. Check out a local Muslim cultural center. Speak with American Muslims in your area, they are your neighbors. You are bad for all of us until you are more informed.

Now I'm not saying that every Muslim should automatically be considered a great person. There are shitheads of every race and denomination. I've certainly met liars and theives in Burkina Faso. Some are Muslim. Others identify themselves as Christian, and/or Animist. All of these people are a minority, and usually not well respected among their neighbors. However, I am constantly moved by the hospitality of the people in this country. I lived in a town that is about 80% Muslim. I was consistently welcomed in to people's homes, and offered a great amount, despite what little they had. People are curious about Americans. When we are able to exchange our cultures, we realize that our values are more similar than different. It hurts me greatly when I hear ignorant, outspoken bigots pass judgement on a group based on the actions of very, very few. It upsets me even more when this is done in the name of patriotism. Unfortunately, our media tends to encourage this type of behavior.

The two articles below are covering the same address from one man. This man is an American, and a Muslim. While the CNN article illustrates the Imam's call for a stronger voice for moderate Muslims, the Fox News article perpetuates a divisive argument with a loaded headline. The fact is, the cultural center, part of which is a mosque, is NOT on hallowed ground. It is however, very near the site of an American tragedy. The Fox News article twists the man's words to make him sound as if he doesn't believe that the former site of the WTC is in some way sacred. This is an obvious attempt by the Muslim-fearing (read, bigoted) right-wing media to smear a man who just wants to see a little more solidarity among his fellow Americans. The real point here is that our media is way off target when it comes to covering what matters, and doing so in a responsible manner.

http://edition.cnn.com/2010/US/09/13/new.york.imam/index.html

http://www.foxnews.com/us/2010/09/13/imam-says-nyc-mosque-site-hallowed-ground/

Well, this particular missive sort of came out of the blue, and I'm sure that some people will disagree with what I've said. Thanks for reading anyhow, and please comment!

Greetings and salutations faithful readers,

I've been out of touch for the past week or so as I've been participating in a bike tour of Burkina Faso. I met up with the core group of bikers in Yako, my new site. We awoke at 4:30AM, and loaded up our support car, and hit the road at first light. The first leg of the trip was to the village of Toma, the site of PCV Bovard Tiberi. The trip was along dirt roads, which wound through millet fields. It is currently the rainy season so everything is verdant and beautiful. At around 15k we met up with new PCV Nick McGregor, a fellow Spartan, at his site of La-todin (there are about 5 different spellings of this, and the villagers themselves don't seem to have reached a consensus). We continued on, completing the 70k trip mid-afternoon following a lunch stop. Bovard has a rather unique set up. He lives in a private school compound in teacher's housing. The compound is located on top of a hill, which made for a climb to finish out the ride, but provided us with a great view of his village and the countryside. After an ample dinner of chicken and pasta, and a few Brakinas, I set up my bug hut outside under the stars. Ahhhh.

I awoke to the crack of thunder and scrambled to disassemble the tent in a delerium, switching between the task at hand, and looking wildly out at the approaching lightning storm. I managed to make it inside just as the rain started to fall. I slept on the floor and proceded to be devoured by mosquitos. So much for a peaceful night under the stars. When I woke up the next morning, the rain was still falling. Because we were sleeping under a tin roof, it sounded as if God and the devil were engaged in some sort of round-robin tapdance competition with Fred Astaire. Though when I walked outside I realized that it was only lightly raining. We postponed riding and debated our plan of action. Eventually we had a car go and scope out the road. They returned with the good news that everything was passable, and that we would be able to ride on to Dedougou. The rain broke shortly after. We had cloud cover most of the day as we biked one of the more scenic legs of the tour. The road was difficult, but manageable. After about 35K we stopped at a small village to warm up with some hot tea, and learned that the supposed 70k ride was actually closer to 90k. Oops. With 55k of craggy dirt road winding out ahead of us, we pressed on.

Dedougou is a large town, and home to two volunteers. We stopped, caked in mud, chafed, and walking like old-timey cowpokes, at the first bar in town and did some much needed rehydrating. I stayed at PCV Ryan Barthels house, and managed to get a solid night of sleep on a real mattress. Phew. This was easily the most difficult day of the trip.

From Dedougou, we continued south, on the road to Bobo Dioulassou, which is the second largest city in Burkina Faso. From here on out, we would be riding on paved road. The trade off, however, is that we were entering hill country. We did the trip in three legs. We first stopped in the village of Bandukuy. The village is rather small, but has grown in past years with the paved road. We were greeted by the Mayor, an extremely hospitable and welcoming man who made us feel at home in his town. He helped us pump water (read; not normal for a mayor), and bought us lunch. Two other volunteers and I went for a walk around town to stretch our legs and ended up having a beer with the Mayor. He was a very interesting man, who informed us that he had only gone to school through what we would probably consider the 3rd grade. His education has come from cultivating, and living in the village his whole life. When he was in his teens, he told his father that he wished to join the military. His father, a veteran of 20 years, forbade this, for which he is very grateful (it's good to be mayor). After some discussion, we took a small tour of the village in the Mayoral Mercedes, and visited a youth center constructed by a volunteer about 15 years ago. He seemed very interested in getting another volunteer in his town and we were happy to supply him with the necessary contacts. We slept at a primary school, and hit the road early the next day.

Our destination was Satiri, a village located 42k North of Bobo, and home to volunteer Isy Tavarez. Isy was a voluneer in Guinea before coming to Burkina, and has really made a home for herself here. We were greeted by village officials at the road, and shown to her house where several girls prepared spaghetti for us. At night, we had the pleasure of seeing a local drum group perform. As soon as the drums started, all of Satiri showed up in Isy's courtyard. You know that it's a party in West Africa when the naked toddler shows up. Some women cooked up a serious batch of riz-sauce arachide, et poisson(rice with peanut sauce, and fish). I spent the night outside under the stars, knowing that I only had to bike a short 42k in to Bobo the next day. We decided that we would sleep in until 6AM so that we could arrive with our wits about us. Several people on the tour were slated to give speeches to the Governer of the region that afternoon.

Fellow volunteer Josh Gwinn and I decided that we were going to make it in to town in under 2 hours. We really gave it our all and took turns drafting every 3k. The road was very hilly and offered some incredible views. With about 15k left, we reached the top of the hill and could see Bobo sprawling out in front of us. Once we spotted the city we rode like the one eyed jack of diamonds with the devil close behind (to quote The Highwaymen). We managed to draft a camion (large truck for shipping goods) for the last 5k, and made it to Bobo in 1 hour 43 minutes. Woosh.

Later that afternoon, we had a ceremony (in the pouring rain) to commemorate volunteerism in Burkina, as well as pay homage to Peace Corp's 50th year here. The ceremony went very well, and the volunteer speeches were great. Since then I've been relaxing here in Bobo with some friends I haven't seen in a while. This is really a beautiful city, and the polar opposite of Dori. The streets are lined with trees, and the humidity can be crippling at times. Oh, and its buggy. Very buggy. Aside from this, I've been enjoying myself immensely seeing another side of The Faso.

Well thats about it for the bike tour. It was a great experience, and I hope to continue biking at my new site; Yako. Yako is located 110k north-west of Ouagadougou, and is a town of around 15 thousand. I saw my new house last week and it is palatial. I have tiled floors, electricity, and running water. The highlight however, is the flush toilet and shower, which are located questionably close to each other. Oh well, that could end up being a real time-saver in the future. I'll be moving in to my new digs in a week or so, and will update you on the particulars of Yako. Thanks for reading!

Congratulations to all the new volunteers who will be swearing in tonight. I had the pleasure of working training for 2 weeks in Koudougou. Training is always a difficult time in the life of a volunteer, but the pay-off is more than worth it. I'll be at the embassy tonight in my freshly pressed suit and new shoes brushing shoulders with Burkinabe and American officials, go me.

In reality I'll be standing in the sun saying "Bonjour" and "Bienvenue" for a couple of hours.

I had the pleasure of meeting with a Burkinabe doctor last week. It was a remarkable experience. Simeon became friends with Mike Lavoie (a fellow Michigander) while Mike was a volunteer in the 70s here in The Faso. They have remained friends ever since, and have collaborated on many projects. Mike even brought Simeon to the US for a month a few years back.

My parents and Mike recently attended a concert at the DIA (Detroit Institute of the Arts, for all you philistines). The band they saw was called Burkina Electric. It is a French/Burkinabe collaboration. Mike spoke Moore with the band the band, and took many photos with my parents. He purchased a T-shirt, and asked that my parents bring it, and the photos, along with them to France. I had the great pleasure of presenting Simeon with the shirt, as well as photos of his old friend along side my parents. This is what it's all about man. Simeon even offered to give me and some health volunteers a tour of the Hopital Yalgado here in Ouagadougou. It is the largest hospital in Burkina Faso, so it will be a great opportunity to learn more about the health care system here in BF. We as volunteers typically see the village side of health care. Those of us who are (un)lucky enough to see the inside of a private clinic for medical reasons aren't really getting a realistic picture of what city folks do about health care here. I think that this will be a great experience.

I was in Yako, which is 100K NW of Ouaga this week. I was working on developing my future site. Everyone seems very excited to have me around, although housing is still an issue. Because I work in girls education, everyone assumed that I would be female (surprise!). The city was under the impression that I would be living with the president of the AME (mother's association). I was completely fine living in a family courtyard, until I found out that she and her 3 daughters are currently living there alone, while the husband is on Hajj (pilgrimage to Mecca). My moving in wouldn't be appropriate in any culture.

So the hunt continues...

Thats all for now folks. I have to go pick up my suit, which I just had pressed!

After a long break from blogging, I've finally got something for you. Tell your friends!

So the biggest news that I have at the moment is that I hit my one year mark in Burkina Faso on June 12th. Big congrats to all the other volunteers who have made it this far. A huge thanks to everyone who has supported me through this. I wouldn't be able to do this without my family and friends. The next 15 months are going to fly by, and I can't wait to see everyone again.

I am currently writing this from a house in Juan les Pins, France. We have been here for over a week now, and it is going to be very difficult to leave. Traveling from Ouaga to Nice went very smoothly, and I got an incredible view of the Atlas Mountains in the morning. There was one unexpected stop in Marrakech. Though at this point I am used to travel taking far longer than expected. Unfortunately, my family had to wait at the airport in Nice for several hours. I arrived to blue skies and warm temperatures. It was a welcome departure from the crippling heat of Ouaga. Everyone was exhausted from traveling the first day so we took it easy. We ate seafood at a restaurant next to the sea, drank Rose, and enjoyed being reunited.

So we've just been enjoying all that The Cote D'azur has to offer, eating lots, drinking a bit too much, and enjoying the pool.

So why haven't I updated in so long?

Truth be told I've been very busy. I am currently looking for a site transfer (goodbye Dori). I've been pulled out of my site indefinitely because of an unspecified security threat. Please do not worry, it is business as usual for the other 100 volunteers currently serving in Burkina Faso. The problem was specific to my region, and I was simply told not to return until they receive further information. Thats all I can really give you for now unfortunately. I've been spending time in Ouagadougou developing training materials for the new group of volunteers who arrived last week. They arrived last week! how exciting is that?

Burkina Faso is currently expanding as a Peace Corps country, so we are receiving a group of around 70 volunteers. This will almost double the current number. Upon my return from beautiful Juan les Pins, I'll be training the new volunteers. This means I'll get to meet and spend time with all the newbies.

As for now the pool is calling my name! A bientot!

So I'm currently at our office enjoying some Chuck Brown, James Brown, and P. Funk on Pandora Radio. I'm gathering resources to put on a formation in Dori on the 20th. Heres the basic outline.

1. Educate primary school students on fecal-oral disease transmission, as well as the virtues of latrine use. Many students defecate in a field near the school. This would normally not be problematic, however there are over 200 students and many of them use the same field to play soccer (gross!).

2. Teach proper handwashing techniques, and install a handwashing station next to the latrines at the primary school.

3. Make 15L of liquid soap with local woman, therefore encouraging proper handwashing at home, as well as at school. Soap making can also be used as an income generating activity for local women, allowing them to have money for school supplies for their children.

Following this I'll be heading over to Djibo; to assist Mr. Charles Casler with a girls camp. We don't have specific activities nailed down yet, but theres going to be alot of camp games, and hopefully a little bit of education as well.

Thats about what I'm up to at the moment. And now Pandora is playing Rob Base, and Digital Underground...So I'm going to do a dance.

Crazy to think about it. Time has a funny way of passing here. There are some days that seem to drag on and on, but when I get to the end of the month I look back and say, "Where did march go?"

Work is finally picking up (fingers crossed). I'll be heading to Ouahigouya (wah-ee-goo-ya, say it fast its fun) in a week with Maiga Issoufi, a counterpart of mine, to attend a formation put together by Tufts University. I have visions of young female grad students who are thorougly impressed by my rugged African lifestyle (fat chance). Can't blame a guy for dreaming though.

Congeé (spring break) is over and so things are slowly picking back up. I hope to meet with a director at the High School sometime this week to talk for the umpteenth time abou starting an English club.

We just received some grant money to do work with sanitation and water. I think that Dori is a prime candidate for this kind of project. I hope to collaborate with some Japanese volunteers to do some latrine maitenence and education. I essentially want to teach all the kids at my primary school to use the latrine, and not my front yard. I hope to do a series and educate them on handwashing and basic hygeine as well. To cap it all off I'd like to install a handwashing station complete with hygeine tips and handwashing instructions next to the school. I believe it can be done rather cheaply, and the director of the primary school will probably be on board.

In social news, I just DJ'd a closing of service party with the help of two other volunteers. Despite an hour long power outage, we still managed to rock the rooftop until the early morning hours. We danced, ate, drank some questionable punch, and even managed to raise some money for our Gender and Development committee (GAD). We did this with a date auction. 15 or so of us guys were auctioned off to the highest bidder. I offered to cook dinner and serve it by candlelight, and was content to be sold off to Leslie Otto (who happens to be a picture of beauty and class) for 12500 cfa.

Before the COS party I held "Man Camp" in Dori. Sometimes us Girls Education volunteers need a little male bonding. I constructed a grill in my courtyard and made barbecue sauce. We grilled meat, drank beer, and talked about how to improve the literacy rates of primary school students.

All in all is has been a good month. Now I just need to get through the blinding heat of April and then do some singing in the rain. And you can bet that when the first rains come I WILL be singing.

2010 til...

Well not quite, but what a good title eh? I wouldn't want to wait for the 15th just for accuracy's sake. It has been quite some time since I last wrote here, and as usual I'm having some trouble getting started.

How about this weather eh?

The Harmattan is in full effect here in Dori. The Harmattan is a trade wind that blows across West Africa, over miles of hot, sandy desert, and into my living room. It leaves everything covered in a fine dust. This dust carries microbes that give people colds as well. YAY HARMATTAN!

Standing in this wind at noon is comparable to having someone hold a blowdryer in your face, while someone else throws sand at you. If you can find two people crazy enough to do this for you I reccommend it. It is worth the experience.

On the plus side I haven't seen a mosquito in two weeks on account of how dry it is. I drink silly amounts of water, and cover my arms with shea butter (an export of Burkina Faso) to combat dehydration.

I was in Ouagadougou an awful lot during February. First, for a safety and security meeting, and secondly, for an IT committee meeting. In between these two meetings I had one week in Dori of absolutely nothing; and I was climbing the walls of my house. It is hard to get things moving here when you can't be around physically to see them through.

The IT commitee is currently developing a fileserver for volunteers with the hopes of increasing institutional memory. A large problem faced by Peace Corps is inherent in the rate of volunteer turnover. Each 24 months or so we have a completely new group of volunteers, who generally don't have a ton of access to information gathered by the previous volunteers. This leads to each group"reinventing the wheel". Our fileserver will allow volunteers to upload project reports into a searchable database. So when Raymond Pularski from Iowa shows up in Burkina Faso in 2014, he will have access to a wealth of project info. Lucky Raymond.

Eventually we'd like to take the server regional, and combine our resources with those of Ghana, Togo, and Benin. This is a bit of a pipe dream at the moment, but I've got faith that we can get the ball rolling.

We've also updated our public website: http://burkina.ath.cx It is shiny and new now, and much easier to navigate in my opinion. Click on "English" for the public site in English.

Thats all for the moment. I'll try to get another post in in a few weeks, but the porc au four is calling my name down the street.

So where to start? So much has happened since the last time I posted. I suppose the beginning is a good place.

I left for Ouaga the 14th of December. I closed my windows, and threw a sheet over my bookshelves in hopes of keeping the dust away. I said goodbye to my neighbors and started the hike to the bus station. Some people on the street thought that I was gone for good, and I had to stop to explain that I would return in January.

The mood at the transit house in Ouaga was great. Volunteers who haven't seen each other for 3 months were reunited. Every time the gate opened there was a "HEY! How are you! It's been so long!". I would compare it to watching people at an airport reunited with their families after a long trip. We all went out to dinner to celebrate the reunion.

Training started the next day. We had four days of it altogether. Training.

The first day we were in the conference room for 11 hours.

I used the lunches to scramble over to the Ghanaian embassy to work out my travel visa.

Training.

Training ended on Friday. We stopped early, perhaps to make up for the more grueling sessions earlier in the week. There was lots of time set aside for things like "group discussion and reflection". We decided unanimously that we could discuss and reflect over beers that evening if we felt so inclined. Several of us did.

Fast forward through 3 days of perfect, perfect, relaxing nothing and I was at the bus station. The bus was air conditioned, and the 24 hour ride was rather uneventful save for a woman who actually shook the back of my seat when I tried to lean back about 18 hours in to the trip. I calmly stated in my best "tired after 18 hours on a bus French" that it was the middle of the night, I had paid for my seat, and would do whatever I damn well please with it. I left out the part about, "if you pulled that on Greyhound...".

We arrived in Accra in the early morning hours, and caught yet another bus to Takoradi (about 6 hours). From there we took a cab (1 hour) to beautiful Busua Beach. I realized that I had forgotten my shorts in Ouaga, so I made some cut offs out of a pair of khakis. The sea welcomed me with open arms.

Our stay in Busua was perfect, save for the fact that it was far too short. Leslie Otto, a fellow volunteer asked me how long I'd like to stay the next time I go. I told her, "Two, maybe three years". The cost of living in Ghana is incredibly low, despite the level of development. Burkina is landlocked, so everything has to be shipped overland in to Ouaga, and then redistributed thereafter. This drives the cost of goods through the roof.

The place was touristy to the point that I really felt I was on vacation. Though not so much that it became tacky. Most other people there were young volunteers from various countries, with the occasional odd German couple riding their tricked out BMW motorcycles across the continent.

We left Busua feeling refreshed, and pushed on. We had planned to take a ferry from the village of Akosombo up Lake Volta, thus cutting the bus trip in half. When we arrived in Akosombo however, we found that the ferry doesn't run during the holidays. We found a cheap, yet clean and very comfortable hostel, and stayed the night.

Akosombo didn't feel like Africa in the least, at least what I've come to know of it. Here we've got a small community situated in a rolling jungle, next to an enormous lake. There were streets with 4 or 5 ranch style houses with driveways, garages, and even lawns. We're not in Kansas anymore.

We rose at around 4am to catch a tro-tro (small bus stuffed full of people) to Kumasi. We arrived in Kumasi just in time to not catch the bus that wasn't leaving for Ouaga that day. Good thing we got up so early. Thankfully we were able to find a bus that departed that evening, saving us a nights stay in Kumasi. We were thoroughly exhausted at this point and slept at the bus station. We did get to explore the market a bit in Kumasi, though we were so tired that elbowing our way through the narrow market streets became a bit much.

We did finally make it back to Ouaga, and without one nervous breakdown (if you ever want a solid travel companion, look no further than the Peace Corps). Though I did find myself getting a bit short with the cab drivers at the bus station. As usual, I was given a ridiculous price (to be fair, my baggage and tan screamed tourist). Eventually we found someone slightly less ridiculous. We were just happy to be done with all the cars, tro-tros, and busses.

I wish I had more photos to post, but I had difficulty charging my camera as Ghana has UK style outlets, and the adapter I have is French. C'est la vie. Go to Busua.

Which leads me on to NYE. A good time was had by all. We bounced around Ouaga, drank a bit much, and ended up at a small kiosk drinking beer and listening to blues music (yes, blues music)until the sun came up.

This has been a monster of a post. I wish everyone health and prosperity in 2010!

As of today I have been here in Burkina for 6 months. That's half a year. It seems that it has gone by very quickly, though there have been weeks that have seemed to drag on and on. It's funny how time works that way. Stagé (our initial 3 months training) seemed to last forever, as it was a grueling process. The past 3 months in Dori have flown by though. I'm finally feeling very much at ease in my community.

I was at a Bar with some friends following a day long exposition put on by JICA (Japanese volunteers). Half of Dori seemed to be there. It took me a good 15 minutes to get from my table to the restroom and back because people kept stopping me to say hello. Maybe it was the beer, but something about that made me feel very good. Upon sitting back down, my friend Issouf said to me, "You know everybody here! You are bien integré". I had to laugh at this because Peace Corps really stresses integration in to our communities, though not necessarily our local bars.

Sidenote: I get stopped in the market, on the street, and at restaurants too.

The aforementioned exposition went very well. I showed up at 7am and got my booth set up. I had information on GEE as well as PC in general. Big thanks to Kait Brown for providing me with materials. Many of the attendees were children, though I was able to meet many adults who were more or less in the dark about what PC is and what we do in Burkina and around the world. It was really nice to be able to explain our work to people. What I found most valuable though, was the opportunity to exchange information with the other organizations in attendance. There are so many community organizations here that it is tough to keep them straight. Through talking to people, and exchanging brochures, I now have a catalouge of people with whom I can potentially collaborate. We wrapped things up around 5:30pm. Needless to say I was exhausted. We are in the "cold" season here, though it is still hot between 10-4. Sitting in the heat all day and talking non-stop really wore me out. Though it was really nice to go home knowing that I had put in a full days work; something I haven't done in 3 months.

I'll be leaving tommorow for Ouaga for another round of training. I'll leave tommorow morning and sessions will start on Tuesday morning and run until Friday. Following this I'll have a few days in Ouaga to relax before heading to Ghana for Christmas. I've heard wonderful things about Ghana. All the volunteers who have visited say it is a trip worth taking. We will depart the 22nd by bus. The trip lasts around 20 hours and I'm not looking forward to it, though I will be in good company. Thankfully bus services to Ghana are climatiseé (air conditioned). We have rooms in a small hostel near the beach, and I am really looking forward to spending Christmas by the ocean.

I'm very excited to see everyone from our GEE group in Ouaga tommorow. I've seen many of them since we got to our sites though there is a handful I haven't heard anything from.

Other stuff...

I went to Bobo Dioulasso (2nd largest city in Burkina) for Thanksgiving round 2. It is about 11 hours away from me and located in the south-west. It is beautiful. Bobo has tree lined streets, hills, and plenty of restaurants and night spots, without the chaos of Ouaga. The food was incredible (traditional Thanksgiving fare). We even had pecan pie. WOW. Everyone ate until they were stuffed and then we went out dancing. I paid mille francs cover to get into one of the dingiest clubs I've ever been in. The place was seriously gross, and this is saying alot. My tolerance for grossness is sky-high after 6 months. We all had a great time though, and once we got to dancing we forgot about the smell. We returned to the apartment we had rented to crash out in the early morning hours. The place was very nice. It was well furnished, with tile floors, beds, and two bathrooms. My head had just barely touched the pillow when I hear a very loud FFFSSHHHHHHHHHH!!!! coming from the room next door. Someone had gone into the bathroom to wash up before bed and a pipe burst, spraying extremely hot steam all over the place. The entire bathroom was filled with steam, and you couldn't see 2 feet in front of you. I decided to take action and got low, and searched for the shut off. I came out soaking wet, having obtained nothing except a mildly burned arm. We eventually called the house guard and he stood outside the door, which was still billowing steam. He looked at it for several minutes before giving a shrug that said, "whaddaya gonna do"? He went outside and shut off the water, and everyone calmed down and slept. I was a bit disappointed that I couldn't take a hot shower in the morning. I suppose it is only right that the pipe burst, it just wouldn't feel like Burkina without some small mishap.

Much love to the volunteers in the south west and cascades who made it all possible.

So while I thought my Giardia had subsided, I was terribly wrong. Sometime last week I came down with a fever. I also experienced some other not so pleasant symptoms that I'll leave to the imagination.

Like most sequels, this one was far worse than the original. It was the same story as the first, only moreso. It's the classic Hollywood formula: "They liked the killer robot in the first movie, so in the sequel, we'll give them TWO killer robots!" However, this sequel made up for it's lack of originality with more explosions and profanity. After several nights of sprinting to my latrine at some horrible hour I finally gave in and had a kid run to the pharmacy and buy me some anti-biotics. It is incredible how quick my recovery was. For an entire week I was sluggish, feverish, and just plain grumpy; and now I feel like a new person.

I also received several care packages, four to be exact. One of which contained an Italian Salami and a wheel of Fontina Cheese. Does life get any better? I submit that it does not. Big thanks to Mrs. Marocco for that. Also among the care packages were bags of M&Ms, mixed nuts, and Mary Jane candy, which I am now healthy enough to enjoy!

On to Thanksgiving...

I made the 50k trip to Bani in a white windowless van that seemed to exist outside of the time-space continuum. As soon as the back door closed the driver hit the gas, gunned it to 88mph, and had me to Bani in what seemed like an instant. I swear the guy had a flux-capacitor hidden somewhere in there.

Upon arriving in Bani, I found Reneé, a former volunteer, sitting in front of a perfectly delicious looking Turkey (then uncooked), nursing a cut hand. He explained to me that his colleague, James, had bought a Turkey in a village west of Ouagadougou. They put the thing, alive, in Reneés bathroom for the night. Sensing it's imminent demise, the turkey freaked out and trashed the bathroom. Apparently the thing wasn't toilet trained. The next morning, James arrived and strapped the Turkey to his motorcycle for the 4 hour ride to Bani. By the time they arrived, they were more than happy to show it the chopping block.

Reneé, having little (zero) experience in killing turkeys, managed to botch the job. He slightly injured the already cranky turkey, and in the process sliced his thumb open. The turkey wrestled itself free from his bloody grasp and ran to the other edge of the courtyard where it paced, and stared back grimly. Reneé sat down and returned the glare. This looks like a job for...SOMEONE ELSE! Namely some Burkinabé kids. They killed, defeatherd, and gutted they turkey in no time.

We built a sort of oven out of a giant iron pot surrounded by mud brick. We lit charcoal around the base and let it heat up. A bit of salt, vinegar, water, and spices in the bottom of the pot and we were cooking. After several hours the bird was ready. It turned out incredibly well.

I contributed some mashed potatos, and we even had pumpkin pie for dessert. It wasn't easy, but then again, nothing here is. All in all a very satisfying Thanksgiving.

Okay let's give this another shot!

I began observing classes this week at my primary school. I live right next door, and am awoken each morning by the noise of several hundred 6-14 year olds. My presence in the classroom has made it much easier for me to get through the day without kids screaming 'LE BLANC!! DONNEZ-MOI UN CADEAUX' (HEY WHITE GUY GIVE ME A PRESENT!). I am now associated with the teaching staff and therefore not someone to be messed with. More and more I find kids calling me Monsieur Johnson and giving me a polite 'bonjour' or 'bonsoir'. It is nice, and I feel that I am becoming more accepted in the community.

My second day observing, amid the general chaos associated with a class of 80 students, I saw a much older boy wind up and smack a younger girl. The teachers didn't seem to notice, but it was a knee jerk reaction for me to get up and stomp towards the young man. This froze most of the students; but the teacher continued with her lesson. I took the kid outside by the arm and layed in to him. His excuse: "But she was bothering me". Fair enough. I explained to him that as long as I am in the classroom he will respect everyone around him, especially girls half his size. I'm used to a bit of playful violence between students here, especially the young boys. Kids are a lot tougher here than in the U.S., and a certain amount of 'toughening up' is part of youth. The older kids smack around the younger ones. This kind of behavior is not at all absent in American schools, however it is more accepted as a part of childhood here.

However, I saw this incident as outside of that and decided to deal with it. The kid was taken off guard completely. He honestly didn't expect any consequences. I spoke with the teacher afterwards, and apologized in case I had disturbed her class at all. The school director was present during this exchange and told me that what I did was right, and that in Africa, it is the responsibility of everyone to raise a child. I was relieved at this, as I acted on instinct. There are certain things about me that simply arent going to change for the sake of "cultural integration". It's not right to hit your classmates, especially when they are too young to defend themselves.

Other news:

It has been off and on with electricity chez-moi. For four days now I've had electricity between 10pm and midnight only. The midday heat still is uncomfortable despite the supposed cold season that I am in the midst of. Thankfully there is electricity in downtown Dori, so I can still get internet access.

I'll be meeting tommorow with representatives from 10-15 NGOs here in Dori (depending on who actually shows up). The meeting is being organized by Japanese volunteers with JICA, another volunteer organization similar to Peace Corps. We are meeting to plan an exposition in early December. The theme of the expo is "Sustainable Societies". I'll be presenting some general info on PC as well as more specific information pertaining to my work with the GEE program here.

I'm just about finished with Isaac Asimov's Foundation series. I've enjoyed it immensely; though I can't believe that I've gone the past 4 years or so doing minimal (if any) reading for pleasure. Reading has become an enormous part of my life, as I have tons of time to do it. I also read Sellevision by Augusten Burroughs. The man is hilarious; and I plan on tackling Running With Scissors next.

I started a bit of a workout plan. I'm doing pushups and ab-work outs each morning in addition to riding my bike all over hell and back. Though this has been a bit difficult with the nutrition here. I don't recover nearly as quickly as I used to. I did 50 pushups one morning and was aching for 4 days following. I had to get kids to pump my water because I physically couldn't do it. Now that I mention it, I'm going to find a kid to get water every day; it makes life so much easier.

Kait, my neighbor, gave me an espresso maker. You put water in the bottom and fill this little disc with coffee and the steam rises into another container with a spout, a caféterra I think is the right word. Anyhow the caféterra and I are now involved in a very serious relationship, and are talking about getting a place together when I move back to the states. It's all moving very quickly; but it is very exciting and just feels right. Anyone who has been in love will know what I'm talking about.

It is still hot, I'm still covered in sand most of the time, and I still fantasize about food all day long; but things get easier and easier everyday.

Thanks for reading! Wend Na Kond Nidaaré!

I just wrote out a loooooong post and then LOST IT ALL! Not happy. Heres the abstract.

PCV Evan Johnson excited with windfall of activity lately. Between observing classes, disciplining students, putting on math help room, and preparing for expo planning commitee the days are rather packed. Spoke with woman who has 10 sisters and 1 brother. Her brother's name is Barka Wend Ye, Thank you God in Mooré. I don't have the patience to write it all out again. You'll just have to wait until next time!

My desert home is now also home to The J.Bs, George Clinton, Johnny "Guitar" Watson, and many many others thanks to some nifty Ipod speakers. I think that I am currently in the running for "most comfortable digs" among PCVs thanks to this addition. Though there are some (not naming names) with wi-fi, running water, and ceiling fans.

I returned from Ouaga last night. I was lucky enough to be accompanied by three other volunteers who are currently on their way further north to visit the dunes and do some camping. They asked me to go along but after being away I was glad to be home. Travel here takes a lot out of you, even if you are going with a major bus line. It is a little over four hours in between Ouaga and Dori and then another hour by bush taxi to get to Gorom-Gorom. Upon boarding a bus I find myself trying to figure out where the sun is going to be so I can choose which side to sit on. Then there is the debate of window (cool wind) or aisle (room for legs). Of course all of this consideration only offers marginal comfort, and doesn't matter if the bus fills up. In which case you are going to be crammed wherever there is room, hopefully not next to a baby.

Before Ouaga I spend a night in Bani. Bani is 55k south of Dori and known for it's mosques. While walking toward the mosques we came across several "guides" sitting in front of a tourists bureau. Guide is a four letter word for volunteers generally. We ignored their calls and walked around some hills until we found a trail leading up to the mosques. The view was really cool, but it was sad to see many of these beautiful buildings in disrepair. The minaret of the Grande Mosqueé fell down during the past rainy season, so the building is a lot less impressive now.

Ouaga was a great time as usual. I ate a lot of cheeseburgers, and hung out with some volunteers that are leaving in a few weeks. I stayed in one night while I was there and watched Casablanca and ate some care-package chocolate chip cookies (thanks Mom!).

It is certainly nice to be back though, and I am really looking forward to getting into all of the new books I've acquired. Also, a special thanks to Karen and Claudio for their care package; I'll be making some falafel and tzatziki with the dill you sent me tonight!

And jam nyaali to all...

Alright I know what you are going to say: "Food again? That's all you talk about is food!"

So maybe it's true. I do talk about food often. It is on my mind a lot. However, I'm taking a different angle this time. Instead of fantasizing about ossobucca and risotto I'm going to get a little hippy dippy.

Each day I walk or bike to my marché. I buy vegetables, bread, and sometimes meat to prepare food for the day. The people, or the families of the people that grew, made, or raised and slaughtered the food are generally the ones that sell it. For these people, the connection between food and the earth is undeniable. Furthermore, things like grazing, rainfall, and wind can have an adverse effect on a family's ability to support itself. These are issues that the world faces on a day to day; and that we as Americans have become somewhat disconnected from. I can hear the groans from some people. "Oh man Evan goes off to Africa and all of a sudden he's some big hippy thats going to lay on guilt when I go to McDonalds". Not so, I would give a lot for a double cheeseburger at this point. I'm not asking anyone to change their day to day habits; simply pointing out a very obvious difference between America and developing nations.

In the U.S. we spend lots and lots of money shipping food across the country. We have all types of produce year-round. It is an extreme luxury that has become the norm. We also consume a ludicrious amount of meat. Not only is beef expensive to raise, but our eating habits bog down our health system with astounding numbers of people with heart disease. I suppose what I'm saying is that dinner isn't just dinner. There are thousands of factors at work that bring the various components of your meals to you, and global effects associated with eating trends. We remain mostly oblivious to this. Agriculture has had the single largest effect on our environment in this history of man, this is a fact.

I'm going to cut myself short and say that I've been doing a bit of research on urban farming lately. I like the idea a lot. It offers people the ability to reconnect with the food that they eat. These are people living in an urban setting that have most likely never set foot on a farm. It also builds pride in a community, and has the potential for generating money, and improving community health. Detroit seems like a prime candidate for programs like this. It occupies a huge footprint, and the population is dwindling, resulting in large vacant spaces. Much of this land is inexpensive, and there is an ample community minded student population in and outside the city. I don't believe that I need to mention the advantages of eating local food.

Soo in conclusion. Instead of going to the big supermarket this weekend, make a trip to a farmers market, and buy what is in season. Prepare what you can with what is available. Talk to the people that grow your food. It's really not that hard. Plant an herb garden, you can even do it inside. It will serve as a reminder that your meals are more than just meals, and that you are undeniably connected to the ground you walk on.

Thats all for now thanks for reading, and shouts to Mike Fresh and growerr.com - I'm looking forward to it man.

SOO heres a bit of an update whether you like it or not!

I recently experienced a particularly unpleasant rumbling of the tum-tum. I ignored it, drank some oral rehydration salts (yum!), and ate a banana. Several days later, the rumbling persisted and was accompanied by burps tasting of rotten eggs (yummier!). I won't go into further detail. I'll just say I've been giving my quads a work out lately.

I looked up these symptoms and all signs point to (drumroll): Giardia!!! I've been treating it and it seems to be subsiding sans anti-biotics; though if it comes back our medical officers will be getting a call. The biggest threat from it is dehydration, and I've been making sure to drink plenty of (filtered) water.

It's just one of those things you know you'll end up facing at one point or another when you sign up for Peace Corps. The reality is, I've had spectacular health thus far. I know volunteers who have gone through several bouts of Giardia (or the rumblin' runs as I affectionately call them), had amoebas, and Malaria. So I'm pretty grateful.

In other news...

I found a local night spot that plays American music. I was walking along when I heard the unmistakeable voice of Phil Collins. I'm not a Collins fan, never have been. I was raised better than that. But the music piqued my interest. I walked into the bar and started up a conversation with the DJ. I asked him what other American tunes he had and he pulled out a stack of CDs. Among them: STEVIE WONDER! SAM COOKE! BOB DYLAN! AND.......the scorpions. Well 3 out of 4 ain't bad. Don't get me wrong, I thought that The Scorpions did a great job with the Freejack soundtrack, but they aren't my first choice when I want to relax with a cold one.

Needless to say I'm pretty happy about this find. Usually if I want to go out I'm berated by extremely loud African dance music. People here tend to crank the volume on whatever it is they are listening to. You can't hear yourself think in most bars, which isn't all that different from the states. It's even harder for me because of the language barrier. I find shouting imperfect French over blaring dance music to be anything but relaxing.

I've been at site for a little over a month straight, and I've got the itch to head to Ouaga and get myself a cheeseburger. I just received news that there will be a Halloween party in Bobo. Bobo is on the clean opposite side of the country, and I'm not up for 10-12 hours of transport for a Halloween party. Maybe I'll just head to Ouaga for the 30th and make a weekend of it. I plan on visiting Bobo at some point in time. But I would only do it if I had a week to spend there. It's just not worth it to ride for hours and hours on a hot, dusty, bus for 2 days in another city.

Thats all for now!

Oh PS I can Skype now! If you email me at emjdj1@gmail.com we can set up a time for it. I'm 4 hours ahead. My skype profile is emjdj1 also, or you can just search Evan Johnson in Dori, Burkina Faso. I'm fairly sure I'm the only Evan Johnson in this city.

So we've entered the "mini-hot season". While folks in Michigan are strolling through apple orchards, eating donuts, watching the leaves change, and pulling out their favorite sweaters; us Saheliens are sweating in 110° heat. This season occurs after the rains have stopped but before the cool months of November and December. My friend Mohammad tells me "December is COLD!", as he hugs himself and pretends to shiver. I can't wait.

Despite the sometimes brutal heat, I feel that I have adjusted pretty well to the country itself. The water, food, and climate pose no real problem for me. Cultural adjustment, has been a bit more elusive. One example, sleep is NOT sacred here. In the U.S. if someone is napping generally those around him/her will make an effort to keep somewhat quiet. They certainly wouldn't call the persons name until they woke up simply to say hello and ask how things are going. That would just be rude.

Last week I was dozing in front of my fan, trying to beat the midday heat. I was very tired from a lot of housework, and hadn't slept well the night before due to some mild G.I issues. Enter my 12 year old neighbor boy. He comes right up to my screen door, sees that I am asleep, and calls my name. When I don't wake up (because I am ignoring the child) he just calls me louder. I finally turn to him and ask "Oui?".

"ça va bien?" he responds.

"Please leave me alone right now I'm relaxing, I am very tired", I say to him (in French of course). This works for about 20 minutes but finally he returns and asks to borrow my bike, to which I respond, "definitley no". He leaves again but sure enough returns, succeeding in waking me up 3 times in the course of an hour. Not to mention the fact that he does it everyday at 6AM. Every day I say to leave me alone, every next day he returns. I don't get it.

The problem is my fault as well. Kids here don't pick up verbal and non-verbal clues that way I wan't them to. They also don't think critically, which has to do with the system of education. If I don't want this boy at my front door at 6AM everyday. I'll have to say "Don't come here in the mornings until you see that I am awake and moving around, if I am asleep then do not bother me". Simply telling him to leave every morning won't get the point across. Another cultural difference.

Something else I've had to get used to is the complete lack of automated appliances and running water. If I want to cook or bake something, its going to be from scratch. There aren't many shortcuts. If the floor is dirty, and often is due to the wind and sand; I have to pull everything out of the house and sweep. What I wouldn't give for a shop vac. When its time to do dishes, I haul water from a pump and fill buckets to wash, rinse, and sterilize. The most difficult of all these things is laundry. Doing laundry by hand is time-consuming, difficult work. I suggest everyone try it at least once.

There is a generalized chart that tracks the contentedness of volunteers. It looks like a piece of spaghetti someone threw against the fridge. There is a markedly low point between 3-6 months in country. I'm at 4 right now. It is after training, and now we have to re-adjust to a new culture and place yet again; only this time we do it completely on our own. This isn't to say I'm not content. Though readjustment is certainly no easy task. Then again, I wouldn't have signed up for the job if I thought it were an easy one. Cheers.

P.S Go right through for MSU! Watch the points keep growing! Spartan teams are bound to win they're fighting with a vim! rah! rah! rah! See their team is WEEEEAAAK, we're going to win this game! Fight! Fight! Rah team fight! Victory for MSU!

MSU 26 UM 20. Boom.

It is required that all volunteers take anti-malarial medication. There are two types. One; Doxycycline is taken daily and can great slight stomach discomfort. The one I take, Mephaquin, is taken weekly, and has been known to induce lucid dreams bordering on waking hallucinations. But hey, at least I won't be getting Malaria any time soon.

Needless to say I've experienced these side effects somewhat, though they haven't been unpleasant or infringed on a good nights sleep.

I'm usually not one to talk or write about my dreams. I usually groan or roll my eyes when someone starts a story with 'So I had this dream last night...'. Its as if they are saying 'here is a complete fabrication of my unconscious, which may or may not expose embarassing foibles in my personality'. But enough with the disclaimers. So I had this dream last night; I was in Burger King ready to indulge in a Whopper, when the portly woman at the counter demanded that I pay. I reached into my pocket, and produced a wad of CFA (burkinabe currency). She looked at me like I was crazy for trying to pay with west african currency in this quinessentially American establishment. Needless to say I awoke frustrated and craving a big juicy burger.

Which leads me to my next thought. My goal for the next couple of months is to put on some weight. I've received emails from worried parties in the U.S., pointing out that I am looking very very skinny lately. I would like to acknowledge the fact that I worked at a "Greek" restaurant before I came here, and spent most of my time running around eating Gyros slathered in Tzatziki, with Saganaki, and Spinach Pie on the side. Where do these items fall on the food pyramid? For any health-conscious individual they should be floating around the top. But for me, for 9 months at least, they formed the solid, immovable base. Now that I eat rice all the time, and my daily activities are walking, sweating, biking, and sweating; its only natural that I've dropped a few pounds.

I'll post the recipies that I come up with here on the blog, so that you can join me on this culinary odessy. To start!! A favorite of mine taken from the "Where There Is No Microwave" volunteer cookbook. Foccacia Bread! YUM!

1 1/4 cup water

2 1/2 cups white flour

2tsp dry yeast

1tsp sugar (for proofing yeast)

1tsp salt

Olive oil for glaze, and greasing rising surface.

PROOF your yeast! MIX the yeast and sugar with 1/4 cup of warm (not hot) water. Let sit for about 10-15 minutes, when small bubbles begin to appear on the surface. Just a few bubbles is okay.

Put your flour and salt into a large mixing bowl and create a basin of sorts to pour the water into. Use your hands to mix it all together (its messy). Sift in flour as needed until the dough is a workable ball, and is no longer sticky. Flip this dough ball onto an oiled surface, and cover with a damp towel, put it in a warm place (in front of a window) and let rise for 1 hour, or until doubled in bulk.

Now the fun part. Sift flour onto a surface and coat your hands as well. flip the dough onto this floured surface and beat it sensless. The dough owes you money, and I heard it say your sister is easy. Fold the dough into itself several times and punch it with your closed fist four about 10 minutes. Cover again and let rise for 30-45 minutes. Score decoratively and then brush with Olive Oil (or sprinkle with seasonings, I like Zahtar). Put it in the oven at 375° for 40 minutes. (WARNING, this bake time is for using an improvised dutch oven, those with Viking convection ovens adjust time accordingly). Use spray bottle with cold water and spray the loaf every 5 minutes for the first 15 minutes of baking for a crispy crust. Remove from oven, let cool, and enjoy.

"KING BROTHER! AFRICA IS VERY NICE! ME AND YOU WE ARE LIKE THE SAME, WE ARE BROTHERS. YES! KING BROTHER! IT IS NICE LIKE THAT IN AFRICA! BARACK OBAMA!" And so on, he shouted at me as I approached the ticket window at the bus station. The man in the window seemed nonplussed when I stated my inquiry. It was a rather simple question.

"How often does the bus run between Dori and Kaya, at what times, and how much does it cost"? However my question was overpowered by the tall man yelling at me in broken, rehearsed, english. I had gotten the same verbal assault the first time I arrived in Dori. That time he was wearing tight fitting jeans, beige boots, and a 50 Cent tshirt. Now he was wearing traditional african garb, complete with a white prayer cap. He stood directly next to me as I tried to communicate with the man in the window. I began to wonder, "when is this idiot going to ask for money like a normal bus-station leech". I finally got my information and continued to ignore the screaming moron to my left. It is common courtesy in west africa to say hello to people when they greet you. But I figure social decorum doesn't matter when I'm not concerned with starting or maintaining even the most casual of relationships.

I walked across the street and sat down at my usual spot at a roadside rice stand. Oh no, here he comes, hes following me, hooray.

"KING BROTHER, YOU DON'T EVEN SAY HELLO? WE ARE LIKE BROTHERS OUR SKIN COLOR THAT DOES NOT MATTER". The man who runs the restaurant and I exchanged a knowing look as he served me my plate of rice. I ate quietly while the man from the bus station stood next to me and attempted conversation, to which I didn't respond.

Finally, realizing that he was getting nowhere, he asked me.

"My friend I am hungry give me 300cfa". I felt some sense of relief at this as I now had a good excuse to tell him to bother someone else, that I wasn't a tourist, and that I don't give money away to people. I exchanged looks with the restaurant owner (a friend of mine) again, and he asked the man to leave politely in Mooré.

The bus station is rife with hangers on like this. There are the occasional tourists that make it out to Dori and these "guides" offer to take them on camel rides, to see the dunes, etc. There is even a man on the bus who telephones ahead if there is a "nasarra" bound for Dori. However tourism isnt an enormous industry in Dori so many of these "guides" find it hard to get work, and end up guilting people in to giving them money. Im a target because I'm white, and it is assumed that I have money. The result is that even when I pass by the station, or go to make a simple inquiriy, I'm harassed by these men. I've gotten pretty good at deflecting them though. If I feel particularly tired and have to go by the station I'll ask one of my Burkinabé friends to walk with me, which they are usually more than happy to do.

Well there ya go thats why I hate the bus station.

I just returned from Ouaga on a rather unpleasant bus ride. I wasn't all that well educated on the bus times from Ouaga to Dori, So I showed up at the station before noon. I found out that the bus wouldn't leave until 3 o'clock. I'm not a huge fan of bus stations; I don't know anyone who is. Save Brandon Bennage; who spends his time there with a guitar for the purpose of entertaining the homeless. He's got a great heart that Bennage, I don't know anyone else who would spend an entire night in a greyhound station strictly for the entertainment of others, out of the goodness of his pure and altruistic heart.

I was fairly tired, and the heat wasn't helping, so I tried resting against a wall to read. I was asleep in about 30 seconds. 45 minutes had passed when I awoke, and some kid was trying to sell me a bag full of eggs. This all seemed normal. I realize that I'm becoming comfortably desensitized to the absurd. This is probably to my benefit. I don't think that this kind of work is for those who have strong convictions about that way things ought to be. If you spend all your time here lucidly aware of the cultural differences, and the day to day difficulties; you run the risk of losing it. It's necessary to procede with your work, knowing that it will matter in the long run, but at the same time accept the world around you as is. You have to go with the flow of things. Going against the grain is a surefire way to wear yourself out. Im not advocating apathy by any means; but this kind of work I believe requires collaboration and cultural understanding. Coming in to Burkina as an American is difficult, and it is necessary to make slight mental changes.

Ouaga was very refreshing; I attended a closing of service party for the volunteers who arrived here 2 years ago. There was lots of food and drink, and even a dance number by the departing volunteers. Ouaga is the closest thing to America that one can find in Burkina Faso. There are many restaurants, bars, and night clubs that cater to tourists, and ex-pats. I managed to have a breakfast of bacon, eggs, hashbrowns, and something resembling coffee at the International School of Ouagadougou. The only thing missing was some aging waitress who calls me 'hon' and refills my coffee faster than I can drink it. I miss her a whole lot. My coffee arrived warm halfway through my meal, and when I asked for a refill I was charged for another cup and it took 15 minutes. Despite the coffee situation, the meal was one of the best Ive had in months and I left ISO with a smile on my face.

Despite its nicities, there is a madness to Ouaga, an energy and bustle that can become very overwhelming. The throngs of motos spewing fumes, the animal smell, and calls of vendors combined with the fact that Americans stick out like a sore thumb holding a $100 bill. Its like no city I've ever experienced. It was a good couple of days, with plenty of cold drinks and good food. But I am very happy to be back in familiar Dori, with my books, and my familar market. My neighbors were very glad to see me returned, and I ate and drank tea with them. When I returned to my house last night I found that I have electricity; which filled me with unexpressable joy. I immediately found the fan I had stored away, stripped down, and sat in front of it reading in my underwear with a smile on my face.

The Japanese volunteers are going to return to Dori in several days and we are going to start work on the exposition for Dori NGOs. I am really looking forward to getting some real work done.

Well the time is just flying by and its wild to think that I've already been here for a week. I've been settling in slowly but surely. I finally got gas hooked up and am able to cook without waiting for coals to heat up (ahh, the comforts of modern living).

The director of the school that I live near is still MIA. He really doesn't have much reason to stay in Dori, as the school year hasn't started yet. I'd really like to talk to him though, as he controls my electricity. I've been getting by just fine without it though. I just finished reading Cat's Cradle, and Breakfast of Champions by Vonnegut, and am slowly working through The God Delusion by Richard Dawkins (which I would reccommend to even the devoutly religious).

I'm just about finished with a large mural on my wall, and will try to post some pictures eventually somehow.

Last night I met up with some Japanese volunteers who are currently working here in Dori. They are with a program that is similar to Peace Corps in many respects. We went to a restaurant for chicken, fries, and beer. One of them is planning an exposition for a bunch of NGOs in Dori, and invited me to attend. Basically I'll be running a booth with information about Peace Corps. It was really nice to get out and chat for a while, even if the language barrier was sometimes a bit difficult to overcome. We spoke French, I fielded questions about the U.S., and asked a few about Japan. A good time was had by all, and we concluded that everyone will come chez-moi by the end of the week for some hommus, tabouli, and whatever else I can pull off (homemade arabic bread perhaps).

During dinner I lamented the fact that it is difficult to prepare certain foods without refridgeration. It's wise to buy meat from the market earlier in the day, if you want to get good quality, fresh meat. However, nobody wants to chow down on a hot steak at 9 a.m. when its 80 some degrees out. One of the Japanese volunteers informed me that not only do they have a fridge, but also RUNNING WATER!!!!!!!! Not to mention an generous living allowance, and even an air-conditioned palace for volunteers in Ouaga. I told him that I would be having a talk with PC Washington asap.

Apparently the application process for PC is far more competative than for the Japanese organization, so it is necessary to provide certain amenities to volunteers. There simply aren't as many applicants; and the number would drop even lower if people didn't have the nicities of modern living.

Don't get me wrong I am more than comfortable in my home right now, I live rather simply but there is something to be said for that. You don't really appreciate running water until you've had to lug two 10 gallon tanks from your pump back to your house every morning. And that cold bucket bath is so much sweeter after you've worked up a sweat.

So I didnt live up to my promise of posting shortly following swear-in. Our days in Ouaga were really packed. Between swimming, dancing, eating, and touring the embassy we really didnt have much time.

Ouaga was incredible, but once again a bittersweet experience. We arrived early this week and checked into a Hotel in centre-ville. We were close to Marina Market (heaven) which is a western style supermarket complete with flourescent lighting and check out counters. After three months in Bogoya I got a little weak in the knees upon entering this air-conditioned paradise. Street food in Ouaga is amazing, and the restaurants are even better (double bacon cheeseburger and onion rings anyone?). There was a man outside our hotel selling brochette sandwiches (meat grilled on a stick, with grilled onions, veggies, and spicy mustard). He serves it all hot off the grill on a baguette. I finished mine off during a medical session in which we were advised against eating street food.

Our swearing in ceremony was very nice. Five volunteers gave speeches in different languages including French. It was really a testament to how far we have all come. The Charger Daffairs at the embassy gave a very nice speech to us in French and English. He is the main man at the embassy, and an American (of course).

We all went out for dinner and dancing following the ceremony. It was tons of fun, but many of us had to part ways the following morning. I stayed in Ouaga until Friday morning (yesterday), and got to relax for a few days.

I Arrived in Dori in the midday heat to find that the rainy season has destroyed my courtyard wall and hanger, leaving me without much shade. The wind also blew my windows open and covered everything in the house with a thick layer of sand. Mais, ca va aller. I enlisted the help of some EXTREMELY energetic Burkinabe kids to help me sweep out the house. I tried to move most of my things into another room before they showed up so that they wouldnt be distracted but it didnt help all that much. After a solid 15 minutes of work they started saying ¨Donnez-moi un cadeaux¨(give me a present). I told them they could have a bon-bon each when they finished and I managed to squeeze another 5 minutes out of them. I was really grateful for their help, but I dont want to establish myself as the white guy who gives out candy.

I received three packages full of books, spices, and beef jerky immediately before my departure, they really made my day. Im already at the end of Breakfast of Champions by Kurt Vonnegut. I dont just devour books here, I inhale without chewing. These first three months are supposed to be spent relaxing and settling in, getting to know the community, etc. So with the schools still on break for another month or more, Im taking things slowly and reading a lot. I should have a new tank of gas for cooking (which I am very excited to do) by tommorow, and electricity by the end of the week. For now; Im getting by on canned tuna (a luxury), and rice from local restaurants. There is even a nice cafe 2 minutes away from my house that makes a killer omlette sandwich.

For now, Im going to take a much needed cold bucket bath. Its funny the stuff you find yourself looking forward to here. In the process of cleaning my house I managed to become coated in a layer of sand and sweat; something else Ill have to get used to. Thanks for reading!! Next time you are out to eat order a cold milkshake for me.

Im currently sitting on a blindingly fast computer using free internet in an air conditioned hotel. When we find ourselves in situations like this we refer to it as "posh corps". Why am I here in Ouaga? I dont have a parasite or an IT meeting, so it could only mean SWEAR IN IN 2 DAYS!!!

Everyone is in really high spirits. We said goodbye to our host families in Bogoya (training village) and had a couple of days in Ouahigouya doing last minute stuff. Last night we had a big dinner followed by dancing to celebrate the end of training. The closing ceremony in Bogoya was really great for everyone, my host father translated our French into Moore for the rest of the villageois. We ate a questionable but palatable melange of macaroni and fish. The following morning before final goodbyes we had a photographer come in and take a family photograph. Unfortunately; I was unable to obtain a copy as we had to leave before they were developed. The whole ordeal was definitley bittersweet, but I am glad to have the homestay part of training behind me.

Ill post again in a few days following swear-in, Ill be in Ouaga until Friday before being driven out to Dori to get settled in for 2 years at site!

Culture shocks are something that occur when you move to a new place. They are a discomfort that is produced when we witness the behaviors of a people with a drastically different way of living. Personally; I havent had many thus far as I try to keep an open mind, and many of my friends at home have lived in close to third world conditions (waters edge, cedar village, 532 come to mind).

The oddities that Ive experienced have typically been on the lighter side; Burkinabe fashion for example. While the country was colonized by the French; there is a lack of Haut Couture.

Popular T-shirts here include; GIANT middle finger hand with several flashy rings, (I saw this number being worn by a kid of about 8), A sleevless white T (manufactured sleeveless, not altered) reading First Lady Fanclub Hillary Rodham Clinton (I saw a grown man sporting this one), a Pulaski Family Reunion Peoria IL shirt, and last but not least, my personal favorite, the pink Tshirt with Daddys Girl written in pink sparkles (seen on a hip younger male on his way to the club). I dont know that I quite understand the process that went in to spotting, buying, and eventually wearing the shirt. Though to a young burkinabe guy trying very hard to look hip, something with a little bling goes a long way.

There is a contest going to see if people can find a tshirt from their university. A few people have been successful.

(((DISCLAIMER!!! Dont get me wrong though. Typically Burkabe dress to the nines. I am constantly surpised at how crisp and clean their clothes are despite the dirt and dust. Men usually wear collared button down shirts and dress slacks with nice shoes and women get clothes made from fabric available at the markets. )))

The fashion oddities that occur here raise an interesting point. They highlight the fact that there is a worldwide cycle of materials. The items that are most desirable are held onto for a longer period of time while those less desirable are given away (why throw out perfectly good clothes when someone else could use them!). However, there are certain items that nobody ever wanted...ever. They are either in very bad taste or totally missed their mark, the giant middle finger shirt for example. Perhaps one misled teenager somewhere in Iowa thought it to be cool for a summer until his mom made him stop wearing it and it ended up in a church donation bin. While these donation bins exist with the purpose of clothing the naked, they inundate the third world with the remnants of our fashion-forward throw-away culture. This doesnt mean I dont crack a smile or even laugh just a little bit when I see a grown man in a Hillary Clinton sleeveless T.

Moving on... Children here are very creative. At the risk of sounding like a curmudgeon, they have fun without fancy toys, video games, or expensive fads. They make most of the toys that they play with. The classic toy ¨a tire¨ is very popular, especially when propelled down the street with ¨a stick¨. My personal favorite though is the (blank) on a string, the item could be a rock, a bag, a box, a bit of plastic, another bit of string, or my personal favorite; the avocado. Another volunteer described a perpetually naked boy in his village that ran around for two days with a pet avocado on a string before eventually caving in and eating it. One volunteer sighted a group of 3 children with pet boxes followed by a child dragging a computer motherboard on a string. So they arent all completely low tech.

Villages usually have a few people with TVs. And some people even have a DVD player. The movie selection consists of bootleg kung-fu flicks. The young boys here LOVE Ong-Bak, The Thai Warrior (and lets be honest I do to). You cant take a picture of them without them striking a killer martial arts pose. However their love of Ong Bak has led to a bit of brand recognition and concurrent imitation. I saw a movie labeled Ong Bak 6 at the marché, and I know for a fact that there have not been 4 new Thai Warrior movies made since I left the U.S. (yes I know The Protector is not technically Ong Bak 2, but lets be honest...it is Ong Bak 2).

Well thats enough cultural oddities for the day. Ive experienced some others but I dont want to give away all of my good material at one time. Thanks for reading!

I am currently in Dori on my site visit. Im spending four nights here; meeting and greeting people. In the words of our Country Director it is important to ¨genuflect at all the tabernacles¨. I believe he was quoting someone else.

So I met the director of the school; as well as some Japanese volunteers working on environmental projects. We did a bit of a tour of the city and my counterpart (man who is showing me around) even bought me some cold yogurt. It is pretty much the closest thing to ice cream readily available here and its damn good on a hot Sahelien afternoon.

Im very excited about my house. Im living large by peace corps, an burkinabe standards. Ive got a living room, kitchen, AND bedroom. Also another random detached room that is supposed to be for cooking that I dont really use. Around back there is another structure with a toilet (hole) and shower (bucket and hole). Everything has concrete floors (a luxury here); and i even have (drum roll) ELECTRICITY. I nearly shoved my index finger in the socket I was so excited but my counterpart advised against this. I also have a gang of boys ages 7-11 that I can give pieces of gum to in exchange for them hauling water. Only they can get overly excited and bring me roughly 100 gallons of water expecting 50 pieces of gum in return. My neighbors are very friendly and have been keeping an eye out for me during my stay. The house is extremely well furnished with a gas stove, tables, and plenty of seating. I expect guests on their way north to Mali and the Sahara. As soon as I am able Ill post pictures though the heat has been messing with my camera.

Ive been reading alot. I just finished Dont Lets Go to the Dogs Tonight by Alexandra Fuller, 2001 A Space Odessy by Arthur C. Clarke, Foundation by Issac Asimov, and The Demon Haunted World; science as a candle in the dark by Carl Sagan, Im about to start Far From the Maddening Crowd by I Forget, and To Sail Beyond the Sunset by Robert Heinlein.

It is hard to believe that in a short 4 weeks I will be in Ouaga dressed in Burkinabe attire swearing in as a full fledged volunteer. Go me. Questions or comments I would love to answer them.

So Im well into my fourth week here in Burkina; and I have acclimated pretty well. I now consider 85°F to be a cool day, though I still miss the food in the U.S. Here is a brief run down of what Ive been eating;

Benga. Its rice and beans and for a few CFA extra you can get onions and cukes on it. Its filling and cheap though they use far too much oil in its (and everythings) preparation.

Riz Sauce. Just like the name says Rice with ¨sauce¨. This can vary from excellent to inedible depending on the sauce. Peanut sauce is usually pretty safe but the sauce ¨viande¨(meat of some sort. goat is pretty common) can cause problems.

Bread. straight up french bread, usually really good in larger cities. Some of the stores even carry laughing cow cheese if you want to drop come coin on lunch.

Brochettes. Meat on a stick best thing ever with a cold Brakina.

Cous Cous. Hopefully not with fish. Burkina is a landlocked country and the poisson can sometimes be questionable.

To. To is eaten by the burkinabe and is hard to describe. It is ground mill mixed with water that is boiled down to a white substance the consistency of playdoh. It is served with a few different sauces usually fish, baobab, and piment (pepper). you eat it with your hands and dip it into the sauce. Unlike anything ive ever eaten.

CHICKEN IN A BAG. This is the penultimate dining experience in Ouahigouya. A whole chicken placed in a paper bag flash fried and then grilled with sweet onions. Expensive but worth every CFA. usually around 2000 CFA. This is roughly 4 USD. Consider benga is usually never more than 150 CFA.

Moving on; I GOT MY SITE INFORMATION. This is huge news. Im going to be serving in the city of Dori, a desrt city through and through. This city is the regional capital of the Sahel region. The Sahel is in the north and borders Mali and the Sahara desert. While the placement itself is pretty ¨hard corps¨, Im going to be replacing another volunteer. Because of this Ill have a nice place with electricity and other amenities. It has been described to me as ¨a very cool city¨ and as ¨a sandbox¨. Apparently a lot of volunteers visit Dori so I can look forward to hosting people.

Things are going pretty well out here. Ive been playing the harmonica alot and singing parody songs about To and the runs at community meetings. Aside from this we like to pass the time by torturing each other with near pornographic descriptions of food. We held a meeting with a parent teacher organization recently and it went very well. We did a sort of needs assessment. I was slightly disappointed that no mothers of students could attend as the women were all still out working the fields. It had rained that day so the ground was soft. Most people in my village use this opportunity to get a ton of cultivating done. Nonetheless it was sucessful.

We had a fourth of july party and I did a good amount of food prep. I made pasta salad for an army. We even had burgers, fries, and beer. Anyway its about lunch time. Give me some sugestions or questions for next time Im able to sit down in front of a computer.

Au Revoir!

So heres whats been going down the past few days. I flew out of Detroit for Philly and met up with the other volunteers to go through staging. Everyone here is great and gets along just fine. There are 32 of us all together (half girls ed half secondary ed with a few random IT guys).

Philly was a great time. and I had fun getting to know everyone; and afterwards we went out and ate a fairly extravagant dinner (seafood risotto oh yes) on uncle sams per diem money. We woke up early in the morning the next day and got immunized for yellow fever and were given our first dose of malaria prophylaxis.

We flew to Paris on an uneventful flight and waited in Charles De Gaulle where we met another volunteer on her way back to Burkina from a vacation in the US. We were supposed to refuel in Niger but the plane got grounded there and I got my first taste of Africa. The first I noticed stepping onto the Tarmac in Niamey was the air. It is so thick and hot here and has the slightest smell of charcoal. The sun was hanging low and lazy over a flat orange and red horizon.

We were put up at a hotel in Niamey by Air France and had even more opportunity to get to know each other. However the bus ride in the morning back to the airport was an eye opening one. Niger is extremely impoverished. Children run up to passing busses trying to sell bread, mango, and peanuts. Villages made of mud brick are scattered everywhere behind buildings made of corrugated metal.

Our stay in Niger was very brief but still something that I wont soon forget.

Moving on... We landed in Ouaga about an hour after departing from Niamey. Its hard to describe my first impressions of the city without sounding negative. I was, and still am extremely happy to be in Burkina. Ill save the detailed descriptions; do a google photo search or something.

Since then our time has been very regimented. I moved in with a host family in the village of Bogoya (8k bike ride from Ouahigouya) and they have been extremely generous and hospitable. Im currently taking language classes in French and Mooré and am progressing well. Everyone in my village speaks Mooré so Ive learned a few greetings ( very important to greet EVERYONE). Im still healthy as can be unlike some of the other volunteers, and plan on staying that way. Also Im 10 days smoke free.

Anyway I have to bike back to village and I need to beat the heat, It should be around 100° today.

So here we are. I'm scheduled to leave for staging tomorrow morning. My flight leaves at 9:14 from Detroit Metro and arrives in Philly a short while later. I'll be there until the morning of the 11th and I'll have my phone with me to make some last minute calls. I want to put a big thank you out to everyone who has supported me up to this point.

Today I met with a man who served in BF during the mid 70s. He has done well for himself and he continues to be active in a number of ongoing programs in BF. We sat down for breakfast and I agreed to take a digital camera to a friend of his who lives in Ouagadougou. I think it will be a great way to help out a former volunteer and his friend, as well as a way for me to connect locally.

Anyways lets get down to business; contact info:

Evan M. Johnson

Corps de la Paix Americain

01 BP 6031 Ouagadougou 01

Burkina Faso, W. Africa

My email is:

Emjdj1@gmail.com

I will have to post my African phone number once I get it. This may take a month or so. For all of you Michiganders reading, time in BF is 4 hours ahead. That's all for now folks, I've got to stuff some last minute things into my carry-on.

Welcome to my blog...

The purpose of this blog is to keep friends, family, and anyone else who is interested informed of my Peace Corps volunteer experience. I received my invitation packet a little over 2 weeks ago and am to serve in the country of Burkina Faso for 2 years, following 3 months in country training. I am to work with a program called Girls Education and Empowerment (GEE). I'll be acting as a liaison between communities and schools, and working to improve the quality of education overall.

I've been a strange combination of excited, nervous, and curious lately; and have been trying to gather as much information as possible about BF. Aside from that, I've been continuing my volunteer work at Baker Middle School, which I am growing to enjoy more and more, despite the stresses that come with working in a special needs classroom. I'm also trying to improve my French skills so I can spend more time learning a local language while I am on assignment. It occurs to me more and more that language is ultimately going to be my largest asset while I am abroad. In order to gain the trust and respect of the community that I am working in, I am going to have to be able to communicate effectively.

As of now we are currently 2 months and 19 days away from my scheduled departure date, June 10th.