I think Italo Calvino says it well in this particular case:

"Arriving at each new city, the traveler finds again a past of his that he did not know he had: the foreignness of what you no longer are or no longer possess lies in wait for you in foreign, unpossessed places."...Or familiar ones for that matter.

I've found a lot of comfort in the books I've read during my service. They are too numerous to count and I wouldn't want to boast about the quantity without mention of quality anyway. Needless to say, reading and reflection have been a crucial element of my personal time in my community. It was the reason I got involved with the library in the first place.

As I was loading up the last bag to be taken to my Community Library for donation today, I stumbled upon Whitman's Preface to Leaves of Grass. While "Leaves of Grass" itself is immense a quick scan of "The Preface to Leaves of Grass" offered me some words that although read before, this time around had particular resonance. I realize these particular words may be overused and in fact I remember a roommate of mine in college even had a poster with the verse, but regardless I don't think have been cheapened and I certainly don't think they ring any less true. Whitman writes:

"This is what you shall do; Love the earth and sun and the animals, despise riches, give alms to every one that asks, stand up for the stupid and crazy, devote your income and labor to others, hate tyrants, argue not concerning God, have patience and indulgence toward the people, take off your hat to nothing known or unknown or to any man or number of men, go freely with powerful uneducated persons and with the young and with the mothers of families, read these leaves in the open air every season of every year of your life, re-examine all you have been told at school or church or in any book, dismiss whatever insults your own soul, and your very flesh shall be a great poem and have the richest fluency not only in its words but in the silent lines of its lips and face and between the lashes of your eyes and in every motion and joint of your body."

I think, as I slowly take my backward steps towards a country I once knew well and shared aspirations and ideals with, I will keep these words in mind and never give up the process of re-examination and struggling to maintain a great poem.

Indeed a lovely parting party for me sponsored and organized by my friends and colleagues at Aburaman Senior Secondary School did come on as scheduled. I was able to finally donate my bicycle, two chairs (for the nursing mothers of the school), a laptop, a portable DVD player, a 35mm Camera, amongst many other useful items to improve both our ICT lab and our Visual Arts department. It was both a joyous and sad occasion as we realized that come next week, I would no longer be seen bustling about Abura Dunkwa on my bicycle. For every ounce of generosity I have directed at this school, it has come back tenfold and I couldn't possible be lying when I say, I will truly miss Aburaman and Abura Dunkwa.

Nothing says farewell like Minerals....

And Meat Pies for the whole faculty and staff!

Ms. Anku presenting me with one of a nearly a trillion going away gifts.

Distributing various gifts to faculty members in the Visual Arts, Science, ICT, and Math departments

Jesu, a crucial resource person in Abura Dunkwa and myselfAbaidoo Jr. and me, the entire ICT department!

One last picture with the staff (only about 50% are present)

Christmas in July! Nearly every member of the Aburaman faculty and staff showed their appreciation with a beautifully wrapped parting gift. Rest Assure I took countless pictures which will be turned into thank you cards to be mailed when I return.

Some of the booty included: 12 yards of real Kente, 16 yards of batik, 2 pairs of my very own Chief sandals, bracelets, and more Kente strips! I was completely and totally overwhelmed by the generosity of my fellow teachers and staff!I am completely and totally grateful to all of the time and energy this community has invested in me and I hope that I have somehow offered them an even exchange.

This is really an ode to Hideout a place I've come to know and love extensively over the last few years. It was nice to spend Independence day eating burgers and watching the waves come in. Happy 4th of July to all my family and friends back home, see you in just 9 more days!

A little piece of heaven on Earth

2 cedi Pineapple of comparable size to Arjun's ginormous head

Napping on the beach with a puppy named, "Nobody is Cool"

Slack lining with the Brits on Independence Day

This is a miracle website in my book. It turns out all those woes about never eating Kenkey or Banku again have been mitigated by some good ol' fashioned American entrepreneurship. A company based in Virgina can mail me in 5 days or less all the Ghanaian chop I need/want/crave. There are 12 packs of Ga Kenkey for just $27.50, including shipping! I understand the price is highly inflated but it might be worth it one of those dark Ghanaian food-less days, that is if they ever come.

Ga Kenkey!

Banku Flour Mix!Smoked TilapiaGhana grown Yams!And a grinding bowl to grind your own Pepe!God Bless America!

July 1st is Ghana's Republic Day similar to our Independence Day which I will also be celebrating in just a few days! Last year 2010 was the 50th Anniversary of Ghana's Republichood and I realized I didn't even make a mention of it. Here is a picture from the celebrations that went on in Abura Dunkwa. This year is a lot less rowdy but a brass band is playing and some big men in shiny suits are definitely giving long-winded speeches in true Ghanaian fashion. Happy Republic Day to ALL!

A picture from Abura Dunkwa's 50th Republic Day celebration 2010!Ghana Flag

I was a little worried about telling people that I would be leaving because I didn't want my school or community to unnecessarily divert funds to an elaborate celebration which all too often Ghanaian culture demands. So I mentioned my departure quietly and asked all the teachers and the headmaster to meet me in the staff common room so I could say a few things.

Anticipating my imminent departure the Aburaman Staff put together a little something for me and told me that the real celebration would be in a week. Although, I am not holding my breath for any elaborate ceremony, I am looking forward to sharing one last ball of Fufu with my colleagues before I die in a tragic papercutting accident as a result of all the COS documents I need to get together.

Here are a few photos from our small ceremony, before the "Real SendOff":

Pearl Kwame hands off a gift to me on behalf of the Aburaman Staff

Ooo! What's inside?!

Lovely leather sandals made by the Leatherworking teacher, Batik fabric made by the students, and 6 yards of Kente Print fabric and some Mardi Gras beads(?!). All such beautiful gestures of their appreciation and perfectly appropriate.Stay tuned for details on next Wednesday, I made a point to mention that I would really like to "try" the Akpeteshie and beer means celebration in America. We shall see.

This post I am making mostly for myself because I for a fact that it is easy to forget the friendly faces that made you bad days good. And it is even easier to forget them when you live in two different worlds. These are some people I want to remember for their ceaseless generosity of spirit. Sam Paintsil, he is the school electrician and a bona fide good guy. He's given me read palm oil, bunches of plantains, and nothing but smiles every time I see him.

Yaw is the owner/operator of Abura Dunkwa's biggest supermarket. He was always excited to see me and explain anything about which I was confused.

My trusty smoked fish seller. I bought those delicious fish from her at least twice a week and she was always helpful in trying to teach me Fante.

Two of my neighbors who always greeted me with warmth and smiles. They took the time to speak Fante slowly to me helping me learn more than I could have learned on my own.

Best Egg Sandwich Man on Earth! I also bought bread and delicious peanut butter from him regularly too.Roasted Corn for an afternoon snack. This lady was always a hoot.There are a few people in Abura Dunkwa who have helped me and asked nothing in return.

Every night, when it is time for bed there is a process. I straighten my sheets, I brush my teeth, and I kick Bella out of my bed- carrying her outside to the front porch. The other night, nothing was different except the fact that a few minutes later I hear a small yelp and the sound of a 22lb dog violently shaking her head. I peel myself out of bed to discover Bella has been bit by (or has eaten) something she is extremely allergic too.

I rushed her into the house and washed her face of in case she has been spat at by a Cobra (this is much more common than you think). Not that I believe water would do anything to save her after getting Cobra venom in her eye, but it was irrationally rational. Needless to say, she was freaking out.

I could see her face rapidly swelling and knew I needed to do something fast before her tiny little nose holes closed up, so I did what any seasoned PCV would do- I called someone with access to the internet to look up whether Dogs can take Benedryl. I use it when i get nasty spider bites that prevent me from moving my ankle so, hey why wouldn't it work on a dog with an allergic reaction. It turns out they can (Thanks Dad!)- 1mg/1lb every 8hours seems to be the ratio although I am not a vet.

I mashed some Benedryl into a banana and forced it down her throat. Within 5 minutes she was completely passed out; a completely understandable reaction to taking 20mg of Benedryl. I let her sleep in my bed so I could keep an eye on her and just made sure she was breathing. I took a picture of her face after some of the swelling had gone down but imagine her having a cartoon goofy nose with both her eyes swollen shut. Poor lil' thing.

Here is a little before and after comparison:

Before the biteAfter having been biten

Luckily the Benedryl worked wonders and Bella is right as rain. Just a little scary adventure for a late Tuesday Night.

In addition to Banku, on my "Foods to Miss" List is Accra or Ga Kenkey. Everyday after school for nearly the last two years I've stopped by Abena (yeah, we are both Tuesday-borns so we've got the same kick ass Ghanaian name) for some Kenkey, Pepe, Okra, and Fish. Let's call it the Bay Area equivalent of the nearest Taco Truck. She is reliably present and always greets me with a smile and some piping hot balls of fermented corn.

Abena, you will be missed and your kenkey too:

Abena and I enjoying our goodbyes

This is a detail of how Kenkey is eaten

Sweet sweet nectar of lifeFood is a defining element of any experience and my time in Ghana has been no different. The Ghanaian cuisine has made me laugh (at its simplicity) cry (at its scalding temperatures), but I'd say we've had a good run, pun intended.

As I start to day dream about what life will be like back in America my mind keep drifting to the conundrum of "Where the Hell am I supposed to get my daily Banku Fix?" It's a problem-o. I'll buy a box or two of the "Neat Banku"- the add water and stir dealio, but let's be honest. No one does Banku in Abura Dunkwa like Sister Eresi.

Upon realizing my impending Banku withdrawls, I headed straight to the best Banku spot in town to take some photos which I can cry over when I'm sitting in front a of a bowl of salad and grilled salmon (wait, that doesn't sound so bad...hmmmm).

Eresi, posing at her Banku Station

Scooping the tasty goo into a bowl for me!After July 13th, I may never order 5000 Banku w/ 4000 Fish ever again. Which is somehow something to be mourned.

Considering the majority of my blogging has been picture-centric, I feel a little odd writing this. But in an effort to pre-re-integrate with my native people, I'll allow this post to be Almost entirely self-indulgent.

Nearing the end of service has been to say the least an emotional roller coaster. I'm not sad, I'm not glad, I'm not excited, I'm not relaxed. In fact, it is hard to articulate quite what's been going on in my mind the last few weeks. I don't want to miss opportunities to see friends I may not see for a very long time, but I'm craving the solace required for reflection. I am happy to be leaving the scathing coarseness of Ghana and that crueldeaf (I'm guessing) lady who lives behind my house and play Gospel music at all hours, but sad to leave a loyal four-legged confidant (and a few humans) behind.

I need to start packing. I hate packing. I want to get rid of all this stuff that somehow accumulated in my house over the last two years but I don't want to have to go buy new stuff when I return. With nothing to do, and a couple weeks left to go, in need of some closure- I lit a fire. Not a metaphysical, spiritual, or metaphorical one. A big ole fashioned fire to burn everything I could find, save my COS packet which I will need to get outta here. I know, carbon credits, air pollution, the worst kind. But I figure somehow my volunteer work karmically balances the damage I did the air today.

The fire burned for a couple hours. I didn't realize I had so much stuff. Plastic burns slow and black. When the smoke finally cleared, I was left again with a moldy shell of a house (approximately). No stacks of Dusty (and often times useless) Peace Corps Handouts under my bed. No filled up notebooks with eager notes from my training days on my book shelves. No "How to Be the Best Damn PCV Ever Manual" (which hasn't been updated since 1970). No molded bottles of palm oil. No Teacher's notebooks with the skeletons of fail lessons plans still creaking inside. And no half checked lists of things that I should have, could have, and did not do. Just a clean bookshelf, empty drawers, and a feeling that no matter what comes next, I'm ready. I did what I could.

When the smoke cleared and the chickens started their endless pecking in the garbage pit again a heavy rain came, I snuggled into my bedraggled bed (which in my fiery passion almost opted to burn as well) and fell into deep dreamless afternoon nap.

I'm not necessarily happy to see the final stitches sewn on this experience but I sure am happy to have less baggage to take with me on my next stop.

Random pictures I ferreted out on the internet to entertain the illiterates (read...fans under 4 years old) who probably view my blog religiously, hoping for more pictures of puppies:

Random African tending some burning garbageTrying to get my point across visually

Chicken eating garbage

Can't disappoint the Puppy fans.

Okay. This is the last one. One of my many contributions to Peace Corps Ghana's ICT ThinkTank.

Again, pictures of the work as it progresses: Alex and I marking out the bricks 

More of the same...



Finished Detail

 Maybe my favorite of all KSO murals 

Contributors: Matt, Becky, Alex, and Myself.

One terrific mural down, one big white wall to go. This time we had to come up with our own ideas. Given that it is the 50th Anniversary of Peace Corps' presence in Ghana, we thought we'd honor those who got it all started. Kennedy and Nkrumah. We whipped up a few postage stamp looking things and put a nice world tree map with a tasteful 50th logo to boot.

Take a look at the process:

Alex and Matt working hard

Adding yellow to Kennedy's face

Progressing nicely

Voila! Notice the 1961 reference.

Nkrumah Stamp

Kennedy Stamp

A job well done.

So, I blame Becky (and a stomach virus) but somehow I got suckered into painting a whole bevy of murals at the KSO (Kumasi Sub Office) these last few days. A good time was had by all (after the stomach virus subsided) and I think on the whole, we did a serious kick ass job. Here are some pictures of the first one on progress:

Each student who attended STARS this year got all of these great things. I can't believe the generosity of local Ghanaian Companies, Ministries, and Individuals that came together to make this stuff happen.

Integrated Science Book, Social Studies Book, English Book, 12 Assignment Books, 2 bottles of water, 10 packs of Indomie, 1 pen, 2 T-Shirts. Who could ask for anything more?

As the STARS Conference came to its final Day it was time to go out into Kumasi for some awesome Community Service Projects.

Matt and Vanessa don their Indomie Apparel, ready for Community Service Day!

Students on the KNUST bus hopping off to various locations in Kumasi

I've officially been in Ghana for 2 years now. And It's hard to believe that in just a month and change I'll be leaving this place for good.

Praire Dog Courtesy of Modj

Endless entertainment courtesy of Mr. Matt Jackson. The way I see it is if a slackline can't entertain a bunch of PCVs for countless number of days before, during, and after mind-numbing Peace Corps conferences, I don't know what can?

We got some great shots:

A shoulder to lean on

Beautiful

Alex working the line

Learning slowly

Tall pine and Palm Trees

It wouldn't be a true Peace Corps Volunteer Blog without a few artsy shots of random groups of kids:

Alex’s world famous fajita-ritos. I believe this was the breakfast rendition of the crowd favorite. Black Beans, Rice, Laughing Cow, avocado, sauteed onions, green peppers, tomatoes, and scrambled eggs all wrapped in a homemade roasted corn tortilla.

Beautiful Food Photography care of M. Jackson

Sightseeing can be fun but...

Sometimes traveling in Ghana isn't.

But it's always fun to take pictures!

And wait in stations!

And Buy Veggies!

And it's the absolute best when you reach your

final destination and there is a Pineapple waiting for you!

It's nice to have some friendly faces around to help with the work and turn your frowns upside down. During their stay they worked hard but always saved some time to hang out.

Modj at the Hospital

Enjoying the company

Sweepin Up

Entertaining guests in Ghana is exhausting

A few weeks prior to my brief trip to U.S., Modj and Ricky sent me a care package in which contained a shiny new set of Bananagrams. During their visit we played, a lot. (But never within 45 minutes of bedtime.) We played so many times that Modj started taking pictures of the Best-of s.

To make things interesting, we noodled up the idea of the Bananagram “Style Point”. Style Points are awarded to the player with the most creative word or phrase on a random theme selected at the beginning of each round. These are some of the winners:

Tasty Fruits Outdoor Activities What’s for Dinner?

(We happened to have eaten black bean burgers that night)

Needless to say we got better as time went on...

After brief post-wedding nap Modj, Ricky, and myself boarded a plane back to Ghana! The pictures say it best:

Back at Home with Miss Bella

Rickster enjoying some fufu and palmnut soup.

One large beer, two big dorks

The King Sisters chillin at Tete spot in Abura Dunkwa

Ricky approves of this Vegetarian Ghanaian Cuisine After brief post-wedding nap Modj, Ricky, and myself boarded a plane back to Ghana! The pictures say it best.

So I went back to the U.S. for a few days and for a very special occasion. I'll let the wedding photographer do most of the work. Here are the very few photos I snapped.

The whole family doing a little run through. I'm freezing if you can't tell.

The final hairdo with veil

My Mom's gorgeous hairdo as well!!

In the car on the way to Maymont

Congratulations Modj & Ricky!!!

Just as I was departing site enroute to Accra then Richmond for Modj's wedding, I couldn't help but glance up and notice a very encouraging sign that my last dry season in Ghana is coming to an end (sorta). Thus a photo of my first mango of the season:

It was about time I tro some of my favorite students to Cape Coast for a good old fashioned beach side photo shoot. The plan is print these photos out when I go back to the US for Modj's wedding and then give them to the kids as "going away" presents (they will actually be leaving Abura Dunkwa before I do.)

After long ago surrendering in the War against the Ants, I decided to live peacefully and maybe even try to learn a thing or two from them. They, after all, outnumber quite possibly 1,000,000 to one. So I started using some of my free time to watch them and these are a few things I’ve learned: 1. The sweeter the better: if It’s sticky, sugary, and sweet then ants want in. 2. Medicine and toothpaste are not delicious. I am assuming they discovered this through trial and error, but seriously they won’t even eat those tasty tropical flavored TUMS, my dad left. 3. If it comes from America and has more than 2 preservatives in the ingredient list let it lay. Truly ants will not touch a hot and fresh bowl of rice-a-roni. 4. If Ants won’t eat it- I probably shouldn’t either. Read as: Don’t send anymore packaged food from America in care packages. I have a feeling the Ants know something we don’t. 5. If Ants won’t eat it- Bella will also refuse to eat it. What do they know that I don’t? A raw hide stick has been sitting on my floor for two weeks and neither Bella nor the ants will touch it. 6. It’s easier to move large dead things that you want to eat (in their case cockroaches) in groups. I see this lesson as a heartwarming example of friendship overcoming odds. 7. When Raining, the Inside of House provides better shelter than the outside of the house. Obviously, but these ants really have their fingers on the pulse. 8. Always stay in line. I find Ghanaians could learn a thing or two from this behavior. 9. Ari is delicious. Who can argue with that? I get more itchy bug bites from ants than I do from mosquitoes. 10. Me fie ye wo fie: translated from twi as my house is your house. Share your space with the ants and they won’t get in your way that is unless you are covered with something sugary.

A much needed escape from an increasingly overwhelming experiment in cultural immersion resulted in a spur of the moment trip to Rome, Italy to meet both my Mother and bestie, Bekka. To sum the experience up in a few words: cold, delicious, and brief. It was just a mere 10 day excursion and despite my mother’s best efforts to ensure we saw everything Roma had to offer, I did lack the relaxing people watching time that Rome is famous for. Keep in mind it was probably 40 degrees Farenheit and after living for 18 months in daily 80-90 degree weather, I was hardly down to sit in an outside café to watch people while freezing my ass off.

I’m better with pictures than words so here are a few of my favorites:

I may have mentioned to a few of you that I may be dying of mold poisoning. Well, the dry season put an end to that but now that the rains have returned I thought I’d take some pictures for the post mortem investigation. Disclaimer: I have spoken to the PCMO about this health issue numerous times and he claims I am not ACTUALLY dying, I just feel like shit because of my allergy to the mold. These are the culprits:The pictures are kind of beautiful in their own way despite the physical discomfort they cause me.

My students will be taking their end of High School Examinations this spring and as a result the school has been running some intensive mock-exams for them. Well after that was all over and done with a celebration was in order: and what says celebration better than a table cloth and some rice and stew? You're Invited!

Here are the school ID cards my counterpart and I designed to be printed for each of the students. The pictures aren't great but I felt the need to prove I was doing something other than taking pictures of my dog and traveling to Rome.

That is to say I no longer fear or loathe them. We’re just roommates. Here’s a pictures of my roommates hanging around the house:

It’s sweet and fast. It's a Schwinn.

Thank you Dan Fowler.

I was selected by my colleagues at Peace Corps Ghana to be the recieve the Foreign Volunteer award at the 16th National Best Teacher Award Ceremony. Upon learning of the nomination I was astounded. I was not entirely sure of what the award entailed and I was even more skeptical when I was informed that I needed to report to Koforidua in the Eastern Region 3 full days before the awards ceremony was scheduled to begin. I truly had no idea what to expect. I packed light, making sure to bring one nice outfit and several books to kill any down time which would arise. I was pretty much ready for anything but could have never guessed what a lovely time lay before me. I reported to the Ministry of Education in Koforidua on Saturday afternoon and was promptly greeted by name. I was put in a car and driven to quite possibly the nicest most luxuriant hotel in all of Koforidua. The Capital View hotel was truly a sight to behold- a pool, tennis courts, a fitness room, free computer and internet use, lovely restaurant from which my meals would be served, room service, DSTV, air conditioning! You name it- this place had it. The details of the weekend began to unfold as I was shuffled to a conference room where the Deputy Minister of the Eastern Region warmly welcomed all of the Best Teacher Awardees to his Region. After his welcome we supped on delicious catering and were informed that the next morning we would need to wake up very early to be taken to the Akosombo Damn for a Volta River Cruise!

Outfitted in our matching shirts and hats the Best Teacher Awardees started the journey early in the morning from Koforidua to the Volta Region.

The Cruise was amazing! It started at the Akosombo Dam and went north on Lake Volta to a small island called Dodi Island. The cruise last approximately 5 hours which seemed to pass too quickly. As we cruised a live band played, and fresh tilapia right from the lake were grilled to order for lunch.

I had to opportunity to chat with some of the other teachers and made some good friends of the National Service Volunteers who were being recognized for their exceptional service as part of the awards scheme.After the cruise on the way back to Koforidua they program organizers closed the Akosombo Bridge down so we could have to opportunity to walk across it and take some great pictures. I couldn't believe I had the chance to walk across the most impressive bridge in Ghana without dodging cars and tro-tros. It was a once in a lifetime chance. Akosombo Dam

Akosombo BridgeMe on the Akosombo Bridge

We returned to the hotel to learn that the following morning we would be traveling to Accra to meet the Vice President of Ghana at Seat of Government in Osu Castle! Sure enough, I got to shake hands with the VP and even get a picture with him which was featured in the Daily Graphic the next day. We were not allowed to bring cameras into Osu Castle so I don't have any photos of that day to share. Sorry-o. The next morning would be the award ceremony. I learnt from my APCD Mary, that she, Joe Bee, the Country Director, and additionally Peace Corps Director Aaron Williams would all be attending the event. Director Williams made some brief remarks at the ceremony along with the Vice President of Ghana and many other Honored Guests. The ceremony couldn't have happened at a better time. With Peace Corps Ghana's 50th Anniversary just around the corner it was nice to see everyone excitedly lauding the hardwork of many of our important and motivated counterparts. I am truly grateful that I was able to attend. Here are a few photos from the ceremony:

Director Aaron Williams, Me, and Country Director Mike Koffman

Vice President of Ghana

GTV Camera Guy

Joe Bee, Me, nd Mary

The various items included in the Awards Package: Native Carvings, Artifacts, Certificate, and Citation

Following the awards ceremony we were invited to a VIP reception at the Eastern Regional Minister's residence. It was a very swanky Gala. There was a lovely band comprised of Fire Fighters from the Region and of course food and drinks were served. We drank wine from bottles (a luxury I'd forgotten was so luxurious with all this cheap box wine around), ate delicious food and danced the night away. A wonderful ending to a most surprisingly wonderful weekend.

It must be puppy season in the King family because in addition to my parents getting two new additions to their household, Alex's dog, Isla, had another litter so naturally it seemed like a great time for me to ask for a new best friend. I asked Alex to do extensive interviews with the 5 canidates and to select the right puppy for me. Just a few days short of 6 weeks later, my request was honored.

Ladies and Gentleman, may I introduce to you- Bella.

The moment I've been waiting for a good 8 months- the arrival of my mother and father! I have a month-long itinerary to keep them busy, exhausted and totally overwhelmed with Ghana. Due to the fact that I have been increasingly less able to identify Blog worthy opportunities- I've asked my Mom and Dad to take pictures and post Blog entries. I would like them to recount their journey to share with everybody.

A few lovely pictures during our time are posted below and accounts of their adventures should soon follow:

The more time I spend in Ghana the more I respect the limited scope of my knowledge. I've realized that the moments I am most actively helping my community and they actively helping me actually happens when I play the role of the student. In the classroom I've implemented such programs as “Fante Friday” where I give students the opportunity to teach me about their culture, language, and interests. So often here the role of “Teacher” is so rigidly absolute. It is a loaded title that just compliments the, at times, detrimental oligarchical Ghana society. For example, for a teacher to admit they perhaps do not know the answer to a student's question would be far worse, culturally speaking, than to supply the student with blatant misinformation. The concept of lifelong mutual learning is absent and as a result students that have the potential to be motivated in their studies by challenging their educators and in exchange being challenged remain bruised and beaten in aspiring for futures outside the limited scope of reality presented to them.

I like to take a different approach, constantly reminding students (and fellow teachers) that as Phil Collins so eloquently says in his hit Something Happened on the Way to Heaven, “I don't know. I don't have all the answers.” I mean who does really? In an effort to level the playing field and potentially start some lucrative projects with school clubs and such- I decided to (on my own dime- thanks for supporting your eager-to-learn-new-practical-skills-volunteers Peace Corps) attend the Environment Technical Training in Techiman. The training included a whole bevy of information that I think all Education PCVs in Ghana should be presented with. The week was packed with hands-on activities for several popular alternative livelihood projects. We learned about mushroom farming, bee keeping, rabbit farming, grasscutter farming, animal rearing, mango farming, cashew harvesting, and many small agro-processing practices. I am hoping to work with a few teachers in my school to implement a few of these projects to help the school generate income for facility maintenance. In addition to some sweet instructional workshops the training also took us to the Tano Sacred Grove (the source of the Tano river), a Monkey Sanctuary, as well as the Kristo Buase Monastery. It was a magical week of learning and relaxation that was much needed after such an intense month of being a trainer. Here are a few photos from the training:

Monkeys love juice boxes

Mushroom Harvesting and tasting

Time is fickle vixen and if you don't watch out, she'll pass you right by. The arrival of June marks my one year anniversary in Ghana. I can't believe it has been that long and what is even more unbelievable is that in just one more year I will be moving on to the next step- whatever that may be.

June also marks the arrival of the new potential volunteers. We call them PCT (Peace Corps Trainees) until they earn their V (Volunteer). I remember when I arrived thinking that was petty and wholly unnecessary but now that I've put in the time I realize the importance of instilling the sense of earning your Volunteership. Come August 13th, the survivors will be granted their upgrade from PCT to PCV.

This year I return to Kukurantumi (the place where it all began for me as well), but this time as a trainer not a trainee. Being a trainer is no small task and it has presented me with so many soul crushing reflections on my own progress. Through observation and interaction with these fresh off the boat Americans I have a fresh perspective of myself. The whole process has made me feel so much farther from America and current American culture, that Ghana truly feels like my home. I don't know what an “iPad” is but I can cook a mean garden-egg stew. I try my best not to make value judgments on my changing perspective and I am learning everyday more how to simply take each day as it comes. I am certainly more comfortable here than I am not.

Meeting all these new people and remember 75 new names is another problem altogether. Strangely enough, one of the trainees happens to be blast from my past. It is a reminder that the world is small and I am by no means unique in my trajectory.

After the stop at the mining site it was on to the place where Palm Wine was being tapped. In case you are curious, Palm wine is a semi-alcoholic drink very common in Ghana. It is made from the liquid in the palm tree and the process requires a palm tree be dug up by the roots and tipped over on its side so all the liquid from the roots drains out of the sides. Palm wine can be drank fresh in which case it tastes like a Smirnoff ice mixed with coconut milk or it can be further distilled and made into an evil hard alcohol from hell called akpeteshie. Fresh palm wine is tasty and refreshing, akpeteshie gives me a week long hangover.

Palm wine tapping sites are generally located in the bush near a grove of palm trees. The one we visited on this particular day happened to be next to a river which was perfect for cooling the copper pipes in the process of distilling the akpeteshie from the fresh palm wine.

Here are some photos to enjoy:

Distilling the akpeteshie

A scary dude pounding fufu

Hiawa is in the Western Region and right in the thick of Gold Country. Although the omnipresence of Gold mining is conspicuous (new SUVs often zipping through the town filled with foreigner prospectors), I had never had the opportunity to visit an actual gold mining site. The men who work the mines are called Galamse boys and are known for being very strong, a little rowdy, and always throwing their money around. Galamse work pays very well sometimes up to 70 Ghana cedis a day (roughly $50) and in the Western and Ashanti regions Galamse work is easy to find. This all poses an interesting problem for promoting the value of education in these communities. Considering most Ghanaian teachers make roughly 8 Ghana cedis a day and even well paid professionals less than 30 Ghc, how is it that you can justify coming to school and working hard to better your mind when with your body alone you can accumulate quite a lot of wealth. In fact, Alex has two students the Aguri brothers, who live less than a 10 minute walk from several mining sites but a 2 hour walk from their JHS. How can you possibly explain the value of walking two hours to school when simply working across the street could make you a very rich man by the age of 30. It is a problem indeed.

My mining site experience went a little something like this: One afternoon after a long day of painting Paa Yaw met us in his taxi and asked us if we’d care to see how palm wine was made (more on this later). This offer usually includes a delightful walk through the woods and frankly a glass of Palm wine was just what this girl needed after a long day of World Painting. We drove a several minutes out of town, down a dirt road, and were informed that we would be making one stop at the mining site before continuing on to our Palm Wine destination.

I honestly don’t know what to say about this particular experience other than my jaw dropped to the ground as I stepped over the ridge to see a large pit full of workers mining gold by hand. This is no 49’s gold rush operation but more of a man-as-machine situation. The sound of the pit alone was astounding with its rhythmic clanging and banging. It was an assembly line of sorts- one man would place a shovel load of earth into a tin pan which would be tossed to another man, again to another man, and then handed to another who would dump the dirt through a hand-cranked sieve. The work seemed never ending-- tin bowls being tossed every this way and that but all in perfect rhythmic efficiency. It was truly a site to behold. The pictures definitely do not do it justice and I am unable to post the video I took.

Truly an Unbelievable sight

A view of the mining site from the top

Galamse Boys

Next term I have grandiose plans to work with my Visual Arts classes to slather my school with painted murals. One of these paintings is going to be a world map. Having never actually drawn or painted a world map before, and given the enormous number of students I will have to control in implementing this project in my own community, I thought why not use some of 4 week vacation to go help another volunteer paint a map at his school. A little practice round if you will.

So, just after festival time in Abura Dunkwa, I headed to Hiawa to paint a world map at the Hiawa Catholic JHS with Alex. With the exception of the walls of the school not being perfectly perpendicular and thus causing our map to look a little crooked, I think a great job was done by all- by all I mean Alex and I, as we drew and painted to whole thing after realizing the project took far too much skill for adolescent Ghanaian hands. I believe that my SHS Visual Arts students, however, will be quite capable of completing the map themselves. All of the skills required are well within the topics we’ve covered in our Picture Making classes this year.

Here are some pictures of the process:

It sure does help to have a monstrously tall friend to comfortably sketch those hard to reach areas.

Alex

Countries Painted

Best shade of blue for an ocean ever!

Frame ala Ari

A detail of our hard work

There is a festival during the Easter holidays in my town and so naturally I invited a slue of friends to come tear up the town with me. After several beers and hours of dancing we emerged from a local hotspot only to here the delicate ding-a-linging of an Ice Cream Truck?! Seriously, if I didn’t have this picture of Alex buying a Vanilla cone (the first of three) I’d be pretty sure it was just another mefloquin hallucination.

Alex thoroughly enjoying the Ice Cream Truck

Chocolate, Vanilla, and Twist!

A colleague of mine Mr. Isaac Wiredu was kind enough to invite me to my first Ghanaian wedding. Not as the bride, this time, but as an honorary guest along with the rest of the Aburaman SHS faculty and staff. The wedding happened to be in Kumasi on a weekend when I was there for some meetings and so I was very much eager to attend. Here are a few pictures from the event. Don’t all these teacherfo clean up nice?!

Me and 3 of my female teacher friends

The Happy Couple

Sporting some serious Kente