Saying Goodbyes

It´s coming down to it here. Today I am taking off from Cobán for good and heading out for a couple weeks before I come home. I´ll work on two more surgical missions and that´ll be it for Guatemala.

I´ve been running around visiting all the sites where I´ve worked. In June, we had our annual meeting where I got to see off all the health promoters that I´ve worked with this last year. This past week, I came back up to Cobán and went out to see all the families at the coop. I´m having one last throw down with my Peace Corps friends tonight. Guatemalans always get torn up with goodbyes and I am terrible at them, so it´s pretty exhausting, but it´s got to happen. I am really going to miss this place.

Team Pic with everyone from Partner for Surgery

Mayra and Carmelina

Walking out to visit Federico in his village in La Tinta

One last Marimba dance in Tactic

Last mission and travels with Mom

It is coming down to it. Just bought my ticket home and I will be headed stateside for good come July 22nd. Since getting back into the action post-appendectomy, I have had another mission and a trip to Colombia to fill these remaining months. Also, I now have my replacement down here, so we'll be spending some solid time doing site visits this months as I get ready to pass over the reigns of Partner for Surgery. I can't even begin to wonder what the adjustment will be like going home much less the process of leaving behind the country I've poured my life into for the last three years. For one thing, I know I will miss it dearly, so I will be soaking up what I have left.

Earlier this month, I finished my last medical mission. This time around, instead of having a triage mission for surgical patients, we focused on training local doctors on how to do cervical cancer screenings. We had an American OBGYN and my mom come down to train three local doctors. We spent a week doing the screenings and saw roughly 500 patients in 4 different sites. As rural Guatemala has next to no access to labs and pap smears, cervical cancer goes unnoticed and untreated until it is too late. We are teaching a technique to local docs where during a pelvic exam, they visually inspect the patient to see if there are any precancerous lesions on the cervix that could develop into cancer. Using a tank of nitrous oxide, the lesions are frozen off preventing them from developing into cancer. It is a much cruder method than anything you'd see in the States, but it gets the job done. We got a grant approved to fund the project, so the idea is to pass this training onto the local health system in Alta Verapaz. It is such a simple technique and if applied well, it could really make an impact on Alta Verapaz. It's easy to harp on the inefficiency and poor training of local docs, but after a week watching them work with Dr. Rick, I have a lot of respect for them. They learn by doing and are incredibly adept at the technique. Given the resources, they are as good as anyone else.

It was a different type of mission to run, so I did not really know what to expect. We ended up having huge turnouts and a crazy busy week. To combine it all, it was hotter than hell with it being 103 in the shade. Mom handled the pharmacy and took blood tests on anyone who got referred for surgery. She also got in on the lovely action of cleaning the speculums (anyone else feeling inspired to volunteer?). We had so many people coming through that Dr. Rick had me come in a start the pelvic exams so he could do the tests on two patients at a time. Never imagined I'd find myself that situation, but whatever, it was interesting. Overall, it was an amazing week. It was especially great to have Mom down here on a mission and to have someone from home see what it's all about.

Right after the medical mission, I took a week off and went to Colombia with Mom and Aunt Anita. We visited Dorothy and Elberto, Mom's aunt and uncle who live in Barranquilla. Short story, Colombia was great. We spend most of the time with the relatives in Barranquilla and it was relaxed. We took one trip up to Cartagena and and out to the Carribean Islands north of there. Cartagena is an amazing city and it colonial structures make Antigua look like a shanty town. Later in the week, I took a couple days and went scuba diving in a national park in Santa Marta north of Barranquilla.

The Colombia Connection

Post-dive in Tayrona National Park

Swimming in Islas de Rosario off of Cartagena

Qana' Dominga

Just to update anyone curious, I went by and checked on Dominga, the patient I wrote about in my last post. The surgeons said it was a miracle she survived as they had to remove over 40 lbs of ovarian tumor and fluids from her abdomen. She is doing much better and should be out of the hospital in a week (although she will have to learn to walk again without those 40 lbs).

When I told her about my own surgical tribulations last week, she asked to see the scar. She laughed and then I got ripped on hard in Q'eqchi' for having such a wussy scar compared to the train tracks she now has on her stomach. I'm glad to see she's got a good sense of humor about it all. Here's a couple pics of her with her Dad.

More Missions and my busted appendix

I took a little break from blogging as the last few months had been pretty uneventful up until recently. Really, it’s been nose to the grindstone with work. I led a solid mission in February with a group of docs from Minnesota and spent most of March preparing last week’s triage mission. Somewhere in there, I got a few days off for Holy Week, but a terrible stomach bug forced me to hang close to a bathroom at all times. Things got interesting last week with a triage mission in northern Alta Verapaz. This time around, we had three docs instead of the normal two, so I spent a lot of extra time and money on promotion. A good week of triage usually results in about 100 patients scheduled for surgery. We ended up at 250 by last Friday. I’d describe the week as loosely controlled mayhem. Besides the shear number of patients, the types of pathologies coming into the mission were amazing and sometimes heartbreaking. The latter would be the at least 10 patients with various types of terminal cancer. Translating that diagnosis is always depressing, but the families usually know something bad is awry and are thankful that we tell them straight. The flipside is that for the first time we have a team committed to doing pediatric neurosurgery, so kids with spina bifida and hydrocephalus (aka gigantic heads) that we used to have to turn away will now get surgery. We should be able to operate about 30 in May. One patient that I will never forget is a woman who came in on Friday that looked to be pregnant with triplets. Turns out she’s had this growing mass inside of her for 17 years. The OB said it looked like a gigantic ovarian cyst. After an 8 hour operation yesterday, a team of 4 surgeons removed 40 pounds out of her abdomen. Here’s the before pic (my apologies to the squeamish).

In a previous post, I mentioned my axiom that after living in Guatemala for awhile, crazy shit is bound to happen to you. I’m now convinced it’s natural law. After we finished the mission on Friday, I woke up early Saturday morning with some stomach “issues” that I assumed was some undercooked meat from the night before. I had to drive the docs 5 hours back to Antigua, so I took some pepto, sucked it up and started the drive. I eventually had to stop the caravan to yak and wretch behind the van with everyone watching, but I wasn’t ready to concede the keys. Further down the road, it hit me that I was not a safe driver. We stopped for a break and sitting in my chair, I had such a fever that I felt like a broken dryer shivering myself across the floor. One of the docs volunteered to drive and I laid down in the car as I started getting the worst stomach cramps I’ve ever felt. I was a little embarrassed at how bad I was handling it all as I’ve had plenty of stomach issues before. I was convinced it was just a particularly nasty bout of food poisoning.

By the time we got to Antigua, we just went right to the hospital to get an IV as I had tossed all my fluids out the window on the last leg of the drive. In my whole life, I don’t think I’d ever felt so weak and just all around sick and miserable. Thankfully, I was in good hands with the three American doctors. They took one quick look and suspected it was my appendix causing all this fuss. The Guatemalan doctors did some tests and confirmed it. As such, I ended up in the OR about an hour after that with a ruptured appendix. I guess somewhere along that agonizing drive that disgruntled little appendix of mine decided it was time take down the house.I remember having one lucid moment before the surgery thinking that most foreigners would freak out going under in a Guatemalan OR outside of the capital. Really though, I couldn’t have cared less at that point nor could I have raised much of a fuss. The gynecologist on our trip said he could take it out if need be and that was good enough for me. However, we ended up making some calls and found a recommended doctor who worked with the hospital. Dr. Humberto it was. All in all, it worked out best this way. It wasn’t until during the surgery that they realized the appendix had actually burst. Had we waited much longer, it would have been far more complicated. And if anyone was particularly worried, just have a look at the painting next to my bed; it was actually Dr. Jesus removing my appendix.

Thankfully, this is mostly behind me and another story from Guatemala to remember. I am out of the hospital and walking around pretty well. Besides the occasional laugh or sneeze that makes me think I’m gonna blow the stitches out of my side, the pain is managable. Lastly, here’s a couple pics of the hospital. It was actually a great place to recover.

New Year's Rush

Since returning from my holiday travels, I have not left Coban for anything more than a day trip. I think that's the longest stint I had here in about a year. Less driving certainly makes my life seem much calmer--no more flattened animals, wrecks, etc. However, my workload has been huge. I'm getting myself ready for three triage missions over the next four months while trying to manage a host of other projects. Furthermore, starting in February, we will have a surgical team down every week for about 3 months. These are definitely the busiest months down here, so I feel like my life is all work. But that's cool. It's what I signed up for and why I'm spending a third year down here.

Here are some of our patients from a big plastic surgery medical mission we had this month. Before every mission, we gather all the patients in Coban from rural areas and then send them down in a group to Antigua. This last mission, we sent in about 20 clefts. These are a handful of patients in Coban right before the mission.

Roadkill and the holidays

I apologize for the infrequency of these posts. I swear I have plenty of material; it’s just the down time to write up a post that I’m missing. Anyways, since the last update, I’ve gone home for Thanksgiving, completed my 3rd medical mission and spent another Christmas far from home in Guatemala. Thanksgiving was wonderful. Going home had never felt like such a vacation. I loved seeing everyone and it was totally relaxing. Coming back from KC to Guatemala, it usually takes me awhile to get back into things; however I had a medical mission the following week, so I was busy as hell and didn’t have time to dwell on it all. We had the 3rd mission in the Nebaj area of El Quiche about 5 hours due west of Coban in the highlands. I drove out there prior to the mission to set up promotions and then headed down to Antigua to pick up the doctors to bring back to the site. Between all this promotion and traveling is a whole of driving. During Peace Corps, public transportation was my public enemy #1. With that in mind, driving is a real privilege, yet it has some serious drawbacks. Actually, for me it’s been okay. Those who have really suffered at my driving are Guatemala’s street animals. To this day, my death toll is 2 dogs, 2 cats and 1 badly wounded chicken (my buddy Dave etched the tally into my kitchen table to remind me of the slaughter). Anyways, the real story was the last dog. Driving to Antigua to pick up the docs, I had a long, frustrating day on the road that included multiple construction sites, blocked roads and a minor wreck. Driving the Quiche to Antigua route is really beautiful minus the last half hour driving through Chimaltenango—AKA Guatemala’s armpit. The town is a sordid strip of whorehouses and used car lots stretched alongside the InterAmerican highway that is always congested with traffic thus granting ample time to ogle the woe that is Chimaltenango. As I drove through town already irked by the delays, a little puppy decided to wander in front of the van. I skidded to a halt a narrowly missed flattening the little guy. However, the no-good tailgaters behind me did not fare so well and the two vans behind me ended up slamming into each other causing considerable damage (I barely got bumped, no damage). In Guatemala, no one has car insurance, so you have to argue it out at the site and come to an agreement. At first, both drivers tried to blame me for starting the whole mess. In situations like this, the card I play is the “Irate Gringo.” Flexing my filthiest Spanish, I told them off and acted outraged that they didn’t understand the traffic laws (well they were tailgaiting). This worked for awhile, but then the cops showed up. With all the cars still in the middle of the highway and everyone telling us to get off the road, the cops explained that if we didn’t come to an agreement, it’d have to go to court and I would have to make a special trip back to lovely Chimaltenango. With that in mind, I swallowed my indignation at having to pay anything and coughed up 200Q under the condition that I never have to make a trip back to Chimal. So, 200Q less, I was able to drive on. And what of the mischievous puppy that caused this whole mess? Well, after I skidded to a halt, he jumped back and then trotted into the other lane where he was pancaked by a dump-truck. All things considered, he probably got what he deserved.

With all that rancor behind me, I continued on to Antigua to start December’s medical mission. To be brief, it was a great mission. We found a ton of patients and the doctors that participated were great to work with. They were the kind of people that make me want to go home and study medicine. Also, we spent the whole mission in the Ixil area far from Coban. As such, it was rewarding to get to know anther part of Guatemala in such detail. After the mission, I spent some time working in Coban before slowing things down for Christmas. My old roommate Dave and his sister Justine came back down to Coban and we rented out a cabin outside Coban for Christmas. It was relaxing and we stuffed ourselves silly. From there, we started a grand tour of Gautemala.

First, we hauled over to Nebaj to start a 3 day hike across the Cuchumatan Mountains into Huehuetenango. My new sitemate Mike also joined us with a couple other Peace Corps friends. The hike was awesome. We hiked out of Nebaj up onto the high plains through meadows and mountains. It was cold, but the scenery was stunning and it was great to stretch the legs after all our Christmas gluttony.

From Huehue, we made our way down to Lake Atitlan for New Years. Last weekend, I said goodbye to Dave and Justine and am now back in Coban to start preparing the 2008 medical missions. Oh, I almost forgot. I finally spotted the quetzal up close driving back to Coban. Here he is.

Extreme Guatemala More so than most weeks, this last one was rather insane with its high and low points. Really, that’s been Guatemala for me over the last two years—extreme highs and lows. It’s a maxim that after living in Guatemala for awhile, crazy shit will happen to you, and it has certainly held true for this past week. I’ll delve into last week later here, but I’ll start with an update of the last month. Most importantly, I finished my second medical mission. We were in the Polochic Valley which is an incredibly poor area. There is one terrible road going out through the valley known for its poor condition and abundance of highway robbers. Throughout the valley there are a handful of towns and villages that have very little access to basic health care and much less, surgery. As such, we had a very good turnout and set another record for number of patients found. The temperature was upwards of 100 degrees during the day and it was a pretty stressful experience, however at the end of the day, we found a ton of patients who will be coming in for surgery. The valley itself is incredibly beautiful. Here's a pic.

After the medical mission, I spent some time in Antigua with a surgical team that was down to operate some of our patients from the rural mission. I then traveled up to Nebaj to work on the December medical mission before coming back to Coban for the beginning of my insane week. Last Wednesday I was planning to head down to Antigua but got a call that one of our patients from the Polochic had died. It was a total shock, so I decided to drive out into the valley to see what had happened. Her name was Dominga Cuc Botzoc and she had been operated for both a prolapsed uterus and a hernia. What was so crazy was that although she had two major operations, she was one of the fastest patients to recover. She was 77, had 8 children and lived by herself selling tortillas to get by. Coming back from Antigua, she had gone with one of our managers and then got let off to travel the last leg of her trip home. She was apparently fine the first couple days at home, but got an infection that turned for the worse. 8 days after the operation, she passed away.

When I drove out into the Polochic, I kept thinking worst case scenario of how the family was going to be upset and I would end up getting chased out of town by an angry mob. When I came into town, there was a huge group of people around her house and she was laid out on an altar. I went to the wake and spent the day talking with the family about what had happened. Her children did not get along and no one had been able to really take care of her. When her health went bad, she had called our area manager who had tried to get her to the local hospital. However she decided she’d had enough and didn’t go. She said her goodbyes to her children and passed away shortly thereafter.

It was a difficult experience to digest. We helped with the funeral and the family was very supportive of us. However, mostly it was just a very sad situation. The family was upset they hadn’t been around to help out and did not place any blame. For us, it was incredibly frustrating that we couldn’t convince her to get to the hospital. She was a very strong woman and in the end was not interested in letting anyone else control her future. She decided her time had come that the she would decide the hour of her passing. So, after going through all of that, I decided to take a day off and go hike a volcano. I went down to Antigua and met up with two good friends of mine from Peace Corps. We took off Friday morning and set to climb the Acatenango volcano outside of Antigua. This turned into another extreme Guatemalan experience that held true to the maxim I mentioned before. For starters, I got food poisoning on Thursday night and by Friday morning I was still throwing up everything I tried to get down. After my terrible week, I was in no mood to sit around in Antigua being sick, so I went anyways. Despite a few yacks in the first leg of the trip, my body started collaborating and realized there were bigger fish to fry—namely my racing heart and need to ingest water as we hauled up the volcano. Acatenango is a 13,000 foot volcano just outside Antigua right next to the active Fuego Volcano. The hike was brutal. It was straight up for 8 hours and we made it to the crater just as the sun went down. We were the only ones up there and we set up our tent right in the middle of the crater. It was eerily quiet and extremely cold. The only sounds were the occasional gusts of wind and the explosions of the Fuego Volcano. The air was thin and we barely slept.

At dawn, we got up to see the sunrise over Guatemala. Seriously, this was of the most incredible experiences of my life. We could see from Mexico to El Salvador and looked right down onto Fuego Volcano as it smoked. We could see all the other volcanoes of Guatemala and it made the country look tiny. The sun crested right over the crater of the adjacent Agua Volcano—it was euphoric and made the experience completely worth it given what followed on the way down. After sunrise, we packed up and started down the mountain. We passed some other tourists coming up and kept heading down from the crater. My buddy Bryan was in front of me by about 20 yards and I saw him stopped and talking with some scruffy looking Guatemalans. It didn’t look like a cordial conversation, and when I caught up one of the guys pulled a zip gun out of pocket and told us to have a seat. They went through all our bags and got our phones, camera and money. Thankfully, we convinced them to leave us the memory chip out of Bryan’s camera. They wanted to continue up the mountain to rob the tourists up top and told us we had to come with them so we wouldn’t run down and get the police. We refused and said we’d keep our lips sealed and they let us go. As we hiked down, the robbers came by us again and continued down the mountain. They then robbed some kids from a youth group coming up the mountain and kept going down. When we caught up with the other group, they told us there were some cops coming up the mountain with a group of Salvadoran tourists. Just as they mentioned that, we started hearing the gunshots. We knew the thieves only had one shot, so we assumed the police did most of the shooting. When it ended we followed down the mountain and met up with the cops. They said they recognized the robbers and just decided to open fire. That’s how it works in Guatemala. The justice system is so ineffectual that the cops prefer to just kill the robbers. However, these cops didn’t shoot so well and just scared the robbers off into the woods. I asked one if he hit anyone and laughing he said, “Oh maybe I hit one, I shot a clip at him so maybe you’ll find some bodies down there.” We thanked them for their efforts and ran down the mountain. With all that behind me, I’m still glad I went up Acatenango. Living in Guatemala, I can never complain that I get bored. I’ll be home for Thanksgiving.

This last month or so has been all over the place. After getting back from the States in August, I spent a lot of time getting ready for my first medical mission. We had the mission in Chisec and the surrounding villages—about 2 hours north of Coban. I ended up running back and forth a lot to set up radio programs, talk to local health promotors and NGOs to get the word out about the mission. The mission itself went really well. It was the first one I was responsible for and we had a new group of doctors down, so it was totally stressful and hectic for me. However, we found a record number for patients for surgery, so the bottom line is that it was a great. Essentially, the rural missions are one half of our total operation where we just look for the patients who might need surgery. The ones we find, we then give them a date and take them into Antigua for surgery at a later date with a different group of surgeons. The goal with these missions is just to find as many people with surgical issues as possible—hernias, cleft lips and palates, clubbed feet, tumors, prolapsed uteruses and cysts make up the most part. The planning for the mission starts months in advance so we can promote them as much as possible. During the mission, we worked at a different site over four days. The hope is that a bunch of people are there waiting for us each morning. We start with a presentation to explain what exactly we’re doing and then start passing the patients in to see the doctors. Out of a group of 200, maybe 20-40 will be surgical candidates. By the end of the week, I was totally exhausted. We found over a 100 patients. Despite Hurricane Felix, flooded roads and all of our Peace Corps translators having to leave mid week because of the storm, we made it through just fine. I’ll definitely change some things for the coming mission in October, but it was a good start.

This is the start of one of the missions giving a talk to all the people waiting outside. We mostly just explain that we're doing and then try to get people in line, it's like herding cats. We also do an introduction of the team. I would always give the first few minutes in Q'eqchi' just to see everyone act all surprised that the gringo speaks Q'eqchi --it's a good ice breaker

On our last day, it had rained a ton and our van couldn't make it out on the roads. We found this guy on the corner with a truck and ended riding out about 2 hours to the mission site in the back. At first I could tell the docs were a bit hesitant, but the road was really beautiful and it was pretty sweet.

On that same road are some amazing lagoons. We stopped by one on the way back that afternoon.

Kids crowding in the doors to see what the crazy gringos are doing (we were eating lunch)

I'm back home from Gautemala at the moment and have been for about a week. Before the trip, work had been totally overwhelming, so I really hadn’t had any time to think about coming back or to make any plans. Needless to say, it’s been relaxing and great. I went to a friend’s wedding in Ohio for a few days and have spent some quality time down at our farm cabin.

I had a similar set of realizations when I came home for Christmas from Guatemala. First off, it’s just a huge shock to me how well everything works in the States. It’s all so easy. My first day back, I set out do run some errands and budgeted myself 2 hours based on my Guatemala expectations. I finished it all in 30.

When I went to Ohio, I spent most of the time with a buddy in the suburbs. To some extent, I felt like a foreign anthropologist coming into a new culture. In Guatemala, I got so used to the noise, crammed living and basically being on top of everyone else. In the States, we have our own space that’s clean and quiet. To some extent it’s like everything is compartmentalized. It works well, but has such a different feeling to it. In comparison, the U.S. makes Guatemala look like a total mess. When I first came to Guatemala, there was a woman in Coban who opened up a hostel and was far more business savvy than normal. She was affectionate and always made a good impression on my friends who stayed with her. After the hostel was running, she decided she wanted something new. She sold the hostel and moved to Chicago with one of her kids to start importing Guatemalan antiques. Anyways, I thought she was gone for good until I saw her back in Coban 6 months later. Surprised, I asked her what she was doing back. She said that honestly she couldn’t handle her new life in the States. From her perspective, she couldn’t get over how everyone stayed inside and only left in their cars to go shopping. It was too quiet and sterile she said. She missed Guatemala for its constant problems, the bad smells and the general struggle that it is to work in Guatemala. Coming back to the States, I keep finding myself returning to Doña Magda’s anecdote. It’s a simple contrast between the two worlds where I find myself. Her experience can certainly help me appreciate mayhem that is Guatemala. However, I still love the States and I’m fully planning on coming back after my time with Partner for Surgery. Besides my culture shock, I had a pretty amazing experience the week before I came home. First, a buddy of mine who was a Peace Corps volunteer in my site before me married a girl from Chirrepec. The wedding was huge and fully Q’eqchi’. Dan’s family came from Georgia as did some former volunteers. It was really cool to see the two worlds under one roof. Secondly, I spent my week prior to coming home in Antigua for a big plastic surgery medical mission. A group of surgeons we have worked with for years comes down every July and operates almost all of our cleft lip and palate patients. We had been planning for the mission for months. We started by calling in all our patients into Coban before getting a bus for Antigua. Some people had to make trips of up to 15 hours. Imagine walking three or more hours from your village, another two in a bus just to get to Coban. From there it was another 5 hours to the hospital. We got 43 patients into the hospital 35 of them received operations. Almost all of them were children. A few were sick and couldn’t take anesthesia. Some babies were underweight and will have to stay in the hospital’s nutrition clinic to get them up to weight before they can be operated. Something we come across with cleft palate babies is that they can’t nurse. The deformity makes it so they can’t swallow and they lose weight. If these babies don’t get help, there’s a good change they won’t make it. A week before the mission, I was out in a village and came across an underweight cleft palate child that had lost weight since birth. He looked awful and his parents were afraid to make the trip into the hospital. However, I think they realize how serious it is for the baby and they are going to bring him in this week. Coming back to the mission, seeing the patients that did get surgery was amazing. Cleft lips are so easy to fix, however the total lack of medical care in Guatemala makes it impossible for lots of people. By the end of the week, most people were looking much better. Here is a picture of one of my favorite patients, Magdelena. She lives in a one room thatch house far into the mountains outside Coban. She was completely embarrased about being in public when we brought her in. Her dad said she barely left the house and didn't go to school. This picture is of her in the Coban plaza right before we left for the hospital in Antigua. I saw her the day before I came home and she's now looking great.

These last couple months where I haven’t posted anything have been far and above the busiest ones I’ve had in Guatemala. This past Friday, I signed out of Peace Corps and am no longer a volunteer. Monday, I started my new job. Before all of this, it had all been a big transition trying to finish my site projects while getting ready for Partner for Surgery. Furthermore, most of the Coban community that I’ve gotten used to over the past year has gone home over the past couple months-Josefin, Keenton, both Daves and Marsha. In between all of that, I had a great visit from home when my brother Andy, and two friends Nick and Courtney came down to visit in early June. I also moved into a new apartment.

For starters, transitions suck. Although I’m just starting the new job, it feels good to be doing one thing. On top of that, all the goodbyes are over. Being in Coban over such an extended period of time lends itself to seeing a lot of people come and go. After awhile, you just have to start establishing limits. i.e. if someone is only working here for a couple months, they are really not worth the investment of getting to know. Anyways, all the major goodbyes are over and I’m definitely turning another page down here.

With respect to work, the last two months on the cooperative were all over the place. I traveled pretty much every weekend for job training and tried to get everything finished at the cooperative during the week. Busy as it was, I felt good with where I was by the time I left. My schools are handling the gardening projects on their own and the cooperative is doing a great job with the tourism project.

However, the biggest part about leaving is saying the goodbyes. The almost two years working at the cooperative went by surprisingly quick. With that, convincing people we won’t be seeing each other anymore was difficult. You just get used to being there, and one day, it’s up and over. With that, I spent my final couple weeks visiting families, eating with them and talking over the past couple years. On top of that, the cooperative threw us a couple going away parties; one from the administration and another from the tourism students.

Guatemalan going-away parties are almost standardized. I remember how it went for the past volunteers and it was almost the same. Everyone gets up one by one, talks about how much they appreciate what we’ve done, apologizes for anything they might have done wrong and then starts crying. Marsha and I had a week of this and it was very intense. As taxing as my last week was, it certainly made me feel appreciated. Working there, I got used to being around everyone and sort of lost sight of the big picture on my relationship with everyone. They got used to us as much as we did being there, so when it hits that we’re leaving, it hits everyone hard and sort of clarifies how we were seen over the past couple years. I’m glad I’ll be able to see these people over the next year.

This week, I started the new job and it’s exciting. I’m a lot busier and have a lot more responsibility, but it’s all good. I always sort of dreaded having to drive in Gautemala and Monday, I took the wheel for the first time and had to go into the capital. Just call it a baptism by fire. I picked it up surprisingly fast and am comfortable with it all. Over the next couple weeks, I’ll be traveling around Alta and Baja Verapaz trying to get our sites ready for the fall medical missions. Also, we have a major surgical mission this starting a week from now where 40 of our cleft lip and palate patients will be operated in Antigua. It’ll be the first one I see, so I’m really looking forward to it. On the 28th, I’m headed back to KC for a break.

Here´s a pic of my hot new wheels.

And this is the view from my new apartment (it´s actually in the middle of the city, but on the third floor, so I get this sweet view despite the concrete jungle I live in)

Partner for Surgery

Coming this July, I’ll be leaving Peace Corps and beginning a new job with Partner for Surgery. This is something I’ve been thinking over for a long time and I recently made up my mind and signed a one year contract. I never imagined that I would leave Chirrepec early, but the job is really exciting and I couldn’t live with myself passing it up and not having a plan come November (my original date to finish). Anyways, I thought I’d explain what I’ll be doing for the coming year.

Partner for Surgery was founded 6 years ago by a former Peace Corps volunteer and his father, Frank Peterson. Concerned with the utter lack of surgical care for rural Guatemalans, they began looking for ways to bridge this gap. The short version is that Partner for Surgery looks to connect Guatemala’s neediest surgical patients with visiting surgical teams from abroad. This began with a strong partnership with a major Franciscan charity hospital in Antigua. Over the years, the organization has formed around the ability to send patients to this clinic.

However, the big picture for Partner for Surgery is their connection with the rural areas and their patients. Whereas many surgical teams to Guatemala will operate on whatever patients show up to the area, Partner for Surgery looks to find the patients who have no other chance to receive an operation. This type of person is likely to not even have the means to seek out a free surgery. Predominantly, this will be someone who is from a very rural area that is Mayan and does not speak Spanish.

To make this happen, Partner for Surgery has a rural network of 15 local area managers who live in patient areas. These are Guatemalans who are well-known and respected in their communities. They are responsible for helping to set up triage missions, promote the organization and see to all the patients needs when coming in for a surgery. As it works now, a patient is identified by a visiting doctor in their communities and then booked for a surgery. As the date approaches, the local area managers then go talk to the patients to get them ready for the trip to Antigua. For many people, this might be their first trip out of their area. It is definitely not an easy job for the managers as the patients could be hours away in the mountains. Furthermore, some people are reluctant to leave since they have absolutely no money and a lot of fear built up towards the outside world. That said, the conditions people have push them beyond their reservations and most end up making the trip.

Most surgeries are taken care of in Antigua where visiting surgical teams are booked almost every week in the hospital. The majority of surgeries are things like hernias, cleft lips and palates, prolapsed uteruses, burns, tumors and cysts. Depending on the intensity of surgery, the patients then stay in a recovery dorm until they’re ready to travel. During all of this, the manager is with them to translate and take care of them. The hope is that they’ll go back to their communities and be able to get back into a normal life. Also, we hope they testify to the benefits of surgery so more people are willing to come forth.

So, where do I fit into all of this? Essentially, I’ll be in charge of everything going on outside of the hospital. Mainly, organizing missions to identify patients in rural areas as well as making sure they show up to their dates. The last thing we want is to be given spaces and then not be able to fill them. About 7 times a year, a team of doctors will come down for a week to identify patients. My responsibility is to make sure the managers do a good job promoting the mission as well as to select the areas and get the doctors out there (I’ll have a van). Each one of these will take at least a couple weeks to set up.

Besides the missions, I’ll be working with some side projects and looking to set up additional clinics for our patients. For example, the Rotary Club recently approved a project for 5 motorcycles so that our managers can get out to the rural communities and reconfirm patients. It’ll be my job to set the rules for the motorcycles as well as to train them on safety, maintenance etc. Funny thing is I haven’t even learned to ride yet. However, I’m not really planning to. Basically, I just need to scare everyone enough so they don’t joy-ride the bike off a cliff.

At the moment, Partner for Surgery is looking to have more patients than the Antigua hospital can handle. As such, they’re looking to help set up a small surgical clinic that can focus on PfS patients. There are plenty of surgical teams who have seen PfS patients before and would like to work with them. However, the lack of clinics is the current dilemma, so hopefully over the next year we’ll be able to equip one and start getting more people in.

So, that’s how the coming year is shaping up. However, I’ve got plenty on my plate before then. Trying to finish up my Peace Corps projects while getting ready for the new job has me busy as ever. My brother Andy as well as two friends Nick and Courtney will be down in two weeks, so I’m really pumped for that. The past month has been non-stop, I’ll enjoy the break.

Since Tacaná, time has crept by with me not having done anything quite as sweet as climbing that volcano. However, I’ve been traveling a lot, so that’s kept things interesting. I just got back to Coban last night after a meeting in Antigua and signing my contract for the new job. Prior to that, I went to Lake Atitlan during Holy Week and climbed a much smaller (and hotter) volcano in eastern Guatemala. Holy Week in Guatemala is a big affair. Schools close for the whole week and most people take the time to travel. I hadn’t really made any plans, but suddenly realized that everyone I knew in Coban was leaving, so I decided I’d better go somewhere. Luckily, my buddy Chris from Miami has been working on community projects with a parish right on Lake Atitlan. Wednesday morning, I hopped the bus for Guate and it immediately got in a wreck with a pickup. No one died or anything, but it slowed us down and set the tone for the day. Later, it was a total mess trying to catch a bus from Guate to Lake Atitlan. What I didn’t realize is that practically half of Guatemala travels on the Wednesday of Semana Santa, so the terminals were jam-packed. Most busses passed by full with doors closed. Whenever one even remotely slowed down, hoards of people mobbed by me to get on before I could think to move. This went on for an hour or so. Meanwhile, I was becoming more desperate and contemplating just going back to Antigua as the bus situation was not getting better as night approached. However, an Atitlan bus rolled by shortly thereafter. Normally, I’m very polite in crowded public settings and make a concerted effort not to be the imperial gringo, but I’d had it. When I saw that bus, I stepped out in traffic to make it stop and let no one get in front of me. What resulted was me blowing through a crowd of people, lots of chatter and “¡Ay Dios!” I didn’t care and most importantly, I got on the bus. Despite standing for the next 5 hours in the aisle of a chicken bus, I made it to the lake and it was all worth it. Lake Atitlan is in the Mayan Highlands at the base of three volcanoes. It has 15 or so small villages on the surrounding shores. Panajachel and San Pedro are the two touristy towns first popularized back in the 60’s by hippie ex-pats getting out of the States. The other towns are traditional, indigenous and materially very poor. Chris works in a couple towns like these at the base of the Toliman volcano. He works with an NGO started by an American priest who was been there since the 60’s and through the war. I spent the first day checking out his sites and some water projects they have going. From there, it was mostly hanging-loose on the lake. The water is deep blue, clear and chilly. Besides the lake, Chris’s village was in full celebration of Holy Week. This began with nightly processions to parade Jesus and the Virgin Mary through town. On Good Friday, the town gets out to make alfombras which are carpets made of dyed sawdust, flowers and pine needles. Later on, the processions march over the carpets in celebration. The most unique tradition is the presence of Maximon. He’s a sort of fallen-saint figure revered by the Mayan communities around the lake. Every community creates his figure out of wood in varying completeness ranging from a stump with a hat (Santiago Atitlan) to a whole body. During the year, people ask him favors that they wouldn’t usually pray for. This could be a small monetary gain or something bigger like asking to have your neighbor whacked. He’s admired for his fallibility as this makes him the deity most similar humans in behavior. Anyways, he’s paraded around all during holy week outside the main church. Finally, on Good Friday, Maximon appears hung dead from the front of the church as he incarnates Judas and his betrayal of Christ. The whole spectacle is a really cool example of the synchronism of Mayan and Catholic beliefs. So besides the Holy Week trip, I also hiked the Ipala Volcano a few weeks ago. It’s in Eastern Guatemala which is far less populated, not Mayan and very hot. The volcano is much older than those in the west meaning it’s much shorter. It wouldn’t be so sweet were it not for the crater lake at the top of the volcano. The hike only took a couple hours. We left really early to beat the heat, but it caught us, so the lake was an awesome reward. What’s more is that inside the crater, the lake and altitude create a tiny cloud forest in the midst of a complete desert. Very cool. To finish up, things are good for now. Finishing up Peace Corps and getting ready for the new job can be hectic, but that’s fine. I’ll mostly be working with my schools. Chris is coming up next weekend and we’re planning to hike into a cloud forest outside Coban known to have the highest concentration of Quetzals in Guatemala.

Lastly, here's a pic of one of my schools I visited last week. I did a garden with them last year and when I showed up recently, they'd already gotten started on another one.

Since my last post, things have been normal with work. I’m still waiting out the dry season to start my school gardens, but I’ve been plenty busy with our tourism project, worm-composting and family gardens. As for BIG news, it looks like I’m gonna take a job here in Cobán with Partner for Surgery. I will finish Peace Corps in early July, come home for a break at the end of the month before coming back to start in August. Partner for Surgery is an NGO focused on bringing surgical relief to the most remote regions of Guatemala. About 8 weeks out of the year, doctors from the States and Canada come down to visit rural communities and to identify patients. From there, there is a team of about 15 Guatemalan gerentes from each region in charge of seeing the patients to Antigua for surgery. The charity hospital Hermano Pedro provides the surgeries at little to no cost in Antigua. Almost every week, a foreign team of surgeons comes into Antigua to operate on the patients identified in the rural medical missions. The most common operations are hernias, cleft lips, tumors and burn revisions. www.partnerforsurgery.org My technical title will be “Director of Rural Structures,” meaning I’ll be more or less accountable for everything going on outside of Antigua. It’s a lot of responsibility and will be a big change in pace from my Peace Corps assignment. I’ll have a car and be traveling much more often; however, I’ll still be based in Coban. All in all, I couldn’t be more excited with the job. It’s a good spot to be in. Besides this job news, I had a pretty amazing trip last week out to the western side of the country. I was headed out for meeting and decided to take off an extra day and to hike a volcano with some other PCVs. Getting to the meeting took me a good 8 hours on a chicken bus. From there, it was another 5 to the base of the Volcán Tacaná in the department of San Marcos. The Western Highlands are a world apart from Cobán. It’s a dry scene of grasslands spotted with peaks and outstanding volcanoes. Furthermore, it’s really cold as the elevation can get up to around 12, 000 feet. After our meeting, we headed out to the tiny town of Sibinal at the base of the volcano. We stocked up on water (all of which had to be hauled up) and got a good rest before taking off the next morning. I could go on forever describing how sweet this hike was, but I’ll let the pictures do that. Basically, it was a tough 5 hour haul to the top where we camped in the crater (it’s a dormant volcano). The next morning, we got around 4AM to hike to the tip of the volcano and see the sunrise. From there, it was about a 2 hour hike down and then a lovely 13-hour chicken bus ride back to Coban. This hike was awesome. It’s one of those experiences that make me have to pinch myself to believe it was all real. Guatemala is sweet.

Blogging is so much easier when someone else does it for me.

Here´s a post on my buddy´s site about Chirrepec, my Peace Corps site.

http://gringologue.wordpress.com/2007/03/14/te-chirrepeco/

These past couple months, things have been a bit slower with work as I have to wait for the rainy season before I can really get working with agriculture again. However, that’s not to say I haven’t been keeping busy. I’ve had some visitors, I made a trip to Belize and this week I’m working in a medical mission doing some translating (and also trying to figure out if I want to work for the NGO that runs the missions). Also, my buddy Dave and I have started to work with a little-league baseball team on the weekends for fun.

By far the highlight this past month was the trip to Belize. Mom and Dad came down a week earlier to travel around the northern part, and I met them on the second leg in southern Belize. I flew to Belize from Tikal in a tiny 3-person plane and it was sweet. We flew over jungle the entire time and spotted some Mayan ruins. Once in Belize, we spent almost the entire trip on a tiny atoll right on the reef. The scenery was stunning. I managed to get in a couple dives and went fishing for an afternoon with lots of hammock time in between.

We also met up with a friend on our last night in Dangriga which is Garifuna town on the mainland. She had worked there as a JVI volunteer and gave us the grand tour. Overall, I only spent 4 days in Belize, but it was wonderful. It was great to get some time with Mom and Dad to catch up.

With work, I’m just now getting back into my schools. We have to wait till April before we can get the garden going. So for now, I’m just doing some random talks on hygiene and getting the compost piles going. I usually arrange my visits to coincide with Phys. Ed on Fridays so I can play soccer afterwards. This past week, one of my schools waited for me to get back from Belize so I could celebrate Valentine’s Day with them (which fell on Wednesday). In Guatemala, this consists of bringing flour, confetti and confetti-filled egg shells to schools so you can plaster all your friends. I got covered in crap, but definitely dealt more mess than I took. Being 3 feet taller than everyone can come in handy.

Another part of the day is a secret-Santa type gift exchange between all the kids. Basically, everyone brings a gift and the teacher draws names for who exchanges gifts with each other. From there, the kids have to get up, say some cheesy stuff about friendship, exchange gifts and then hug their partner. For same-sex interactions, it went over easy. However, imagine 4-6th grade boys and girls having to hug each other in front of the whole class. Awkward and totally hilarious. Here’s what it looks like:

Beyond all this, things are going well. Marsha (my sitemate) and I are working together on a tourism project for the cooperative. We did I practice run today and it went well, so we´re hoping tourists can start arriving soon. Within a couple weeks I should know whether or not I will stay for another year. Tomorrow, I going to translate with the NGO on one of their medical missions to feel things out. I’m definitely on the fence, but would like to just make my decision so I can plan out the rest of the year accordingly. Will advise.

Here’s some recent photos:

This is Marsha getting swarmed on Valentine´s Day at one of the co-op schools.

Batting practice with the Coban little-league team.

These are the ruins of Yax-Ha that I flew over on the way back from Belize. This is where "Survivor Guatemala" was filmed.

Here´s a snapper I caught on the Belize trip. We ate him for lunch.

Here´s a view from right outside the cabin. The reef was right off the beach.

This is a waterfall outside Coban we hiked out to when I had some friends visiting.

Here are a few recent photos from work: This is a guisquilero that I made with Humberto, my counterpart. We planted 5 guisquiles (potato-like squash) back in December and just this week made the support. The goal is for the vines to grow up into the strings so that the squash will hang down and be easier to harvest. Also, having the vines planted in one spot (usually they´re just planted wherever) makes it so you only have to fertilize one area. I´m hoping we can get at least 400 squash out of the vines.

This is a coop family (and their chickens) that Marsha and I both work with.

And here´s a family garden we planted back in November.

The last time posting something here feels like a really long time ago. Between now and then, I’ve been back to KC for Christmas, up to Chicago for New Years and have now been in Coban for two weeks.

Going home, there was definitely the expectation of culture shock. However, after the first night back, it felt like I was just back in the stride of things at home. I spent that first week just catching up with the family and being extremely lazy. Around Christmas, friends started to come back into town and things got busy. My trip to Chicago was wonderful as I got to check out Liesl and John’s new digs as well as see a ton of college friends.

The time at home made me realize how many things there are that I really miss. Clearly, the best part about home was to see people (and Scout). However, I had forgotten how little things like dry air, hot water and a good place to wash my clothes can make life so much easier. These aren’t exactly necessities, but just little things that a year in Guatemala will put into perspective.

Being home, I sometimes felt like I hadn’t left. On seeing people for the first time, the interactions usually went like this:

“Wow, you’re back. Everything going good down there?”

“Yeah, it’s been a great year.”

“Cool. Let’s get a drink.”

From there, any talk of Guatemala was over, and that was fine for then. I guess what surprising is how much I’ve realized Guatemala and home are two completely separate environments for me. Guatemala is a different world with a whole different set of rules than home. Accurately explaining Guatemala at home is just as difficult as it is to explain the States to people here. Somehow I’ve got it figured out how to live comfortably in both.

Getting back into things back here took me awhile. The month prior to going home, I had been thinking in little other than the trip itself. As such, I hadn’t planned much out for myself and had to kind of scramble to get thing back in order. Furthermore, I’m thinking seriously about taking a job here with an NGO that would cut my time short with Peace Corps but extend my overall time in Guatemala. It’s all up in the air and a lot to think about. The job would be amazing, but I really miss seeing people. With that, it’s tough to plan out the year not knowing if I’ll be in my current spot all the way to November, or just till June. I think I should be able to figure that out within a few weeks.

All that said, things have been pretty good this week. School started on Monday and it was great to see all the kids. Michelle, the volunteer before me at Chirrepec came back for a visit this week and we’ve been seeing a lot of coop families, so it’s been interested to see how things have changed. Come February, I´m off to Belize for a few days to see Mom and Dad. Can´t wait.

These past few weeks have been along the same lines as October. With the end of the school year, I’ve been spending more time working with and visiting families. It’s been a good change of pace. With schools, work was a lot more hectic as I had to try and control a class of kids. With families, it’s chill. We go out, work outside all morning and then eat a huge lunch. Beyond the family gardening, I’m trying to get some projects organized with the agricultural committee of the cooperative. A couple of weeks ago, I took them out to the farm of a Mennonite family that’s working in the town next to the cooperative. It’s basically a huge school garden that they’ve been working on for the past few years. It’s pretty advanced, so I wanted some coop people to see it in order to generate some ideas. So far, I’ve got them sold on using earthworms to make organic fertilizer as well as making guisquileros. The worm-composting consists of making big box filled with weeds and coffee pulp, throwing in a bunch of earth worms and waiting three months for the worms to work the mix into fertilizer. The güisquil is a type of squash that grows wild here. A güisquilero is a set of vine poles that you can set up so that the squash grows above the ground and thus leaves much more fruit than it would in the wild. At the moment, we’ve got this built and the worm box is pending, so we’ll see how that goes. I also showed them a rabbit project that people got interested in, but that’ll have to wait. Besides work, I’ve been going to a graduation and wedding parties that have been a blast. A Q’eqchi party usually lasts all day and includes heaps of traditional food and lots of Marimba dancing. On the whole, these parties are pretty amazing. Throwing a party is a huge investment for a family that usually involves somewhere around 50 chickens, a cow and hiring a marimba band. Moreover, they usually invite the whole community. I went to a graduation party yesterday where I had seen women preparing the food two days in advance. At these parties, the deal is that you show up with a gift, salute the host and then eat an enormous meal. The food is always yu, which is boiled meat with a sauce made of corn meal, tree tomatoes and lots of oil. With the dish you always get a ton of tortillas and tamales as well as a separate bowl of soup. At first, I thought the soup was just salty broth with tomatoes. However, I was in the kitchen yesterday and learned it was in fact turkey blood. After eating, you hang around and dance Marimba for hours. At first, I was totally shy about the dancing as I wasn’t sure about who I was allowed to dance with. I could just see myself asking someone’s girlfriend and getting thrown out of the party. Luckily, the norm is that you dance as much as you can with anyone. As such, I end up dancing with girls I teach to 70 year old grandmothers. By the end of it all, I’m totally exhuated as a marimba song can go on for over 20 minutes. For me, these are the events where I just realize how strange my life is here. I could have never imagined myself bouncing around a party way out in a Q’eqchi community and feeling totally comfortable and accepted, but here I am. The only other major news to report was the Shakira concert I went to last week in Guate and Halloween. For Halloween, Roger, Dave, Miguel and I were the probably the only people in costume in all of Coban, so it wasn’t all that crazy. However, last week’s Shakira concert was sweet. Guatemala doesn’t get too many major concerts, so Shakira was a major event. The stadium was packed and it was a great show.

For the moment, I´ve got a couple more weeks of work before we celebrate Thanksgiving in Coban. After that, I´m headed to the capital for my mid-service medical checkups and conference. Not too long after that, I´ll be home for Christmas. Can´t wait.

**This is a private site and does not represent the views of the U.S. Peace Corps

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So I let that last post stay up for awhile as I don’t think I’m gonna be able to top it any time soon. However, the last month and a half or so of “post-trauma” have been busy and really rewarding, so here’s the story. I finished my first school year, I worked some more medical missions and it´s harvest time for corn on the cooperative.

With my schools, this last month has been pretty fun as we harvested the gardens and I got to work with the kids showing them how to cook the veggies. More importantly however, one of my schools won a prize for best school garden in Alta Verapaz and third best on the national level. As such, the Ministry of Agriculture lent us a bus to take all the kids to Salamá, the capital of Baja Verapaz. Most of the kids had never left their village, so just getting a ride out was a big deal for them. At the ceremony, they also got some prizes such as wheel-barrows and hoes—not terribly exciting, but the spectacle of watching the kids out of their element getting this kind of attention was hilarious. The all got dressed up and when they were formally recognized they had to get up and sing some school songs. They started singing in front of the whole audience at a just-barely audible level. The kids in the front row were terrified and kept turning around while everyone else just kind of looked down. Most people in the audience kindly smiled while I was busy laughing my ass off and taking pictures. Besides the stage fright, they all seemed to love it and I got a real kick out of just witnessing the whole spectacle.

After the ceremony, I spent the rest of the week running around with the ag. trainees who were up in Coban for a field-based training with me. They worked with some of my schools practicing lesson plans, working in family gardens, playing soccer etc..it was a blast.

Since the trainees visit, the school year ended, so I’ve got some more time than usual on my hands. This past week, I ran around a couple weeks translating for some Canadian doctors. Monday, we drove way out to some remote villages in Northern Alta Verapaz and Tuesday we worked in the Polochic Valley south of Coban. Both places were fairly remote, so we got to see patients who rarely get much medical attention. We worked straight from about 7 to 5 with no more than a 10-minute break for lunch. Each day, I sat with a doctor and translated either directly to the patient or to a Pokomchi or Q’eqchi translator. I translated for a few patients in Q’eqchi, but my vocab is small and mostly limited to agriculture, so answers to questions like “Describe your menstrual cycle for the past 3 months” blew right over me. The patient lines were out the door, so the days were long and totally exhausting. We saw all kinds of ailments from hernias and prolapsed uteruses to lipomas and a couple depressing cases of terminal cancer. With these missions, most people walk out better than how they came in, so every now and then, it’s good to work in something that sees immediate results.

Besides the medical missions and everything else, I’ve been spending a lot of time with families on the coop outside of work. Right now is the corn harvest, so most people are busy with that and love to invite Marsha and myself along. It’s an all day affair of breaking down corn stalks and hauling around big gunny sacks of the ears. Between the work, we just joke around and eat a ton of tortillas and tamales. With the end of the school year there’s also been a lot of graduation parties and even some weddings. Yesterday, I started with a wedding at nine, the reception at noon and then a graduation party in the afternoon. Overall, I think I racked up about 4 hours of Marimba dancing.

These activities are so much fun. Compared to where I was a year ago, I’m so much more comfortable around everyone. It used to be that I was too worried about offending someone’s cultural sensibilities and didn’t know enough people to feel at ease. At this point, I know most everyone pretty well, so it’s really fulfilling to be able to participate in the events and just hang out all day.

From here, I’ve got about a month and a half more before my trip home for Christmas. I can’t even begin to explain how excited I am for that. Till then, my biggest event is the Shakira concert I´m headed to this weekend.

**This is a private site that does not reflect the views of the U.S. Peace Corps** Ever wonder how much my right testicle is worth? Me neither, but here’s the answer: Honestly, I really don’t even know where to begin with the story of this week, but I guess I’ll go with a short description. I got sick on Monday, then got flown out of Coban in a helicopter and spent the week in the hospital for an infection in one of my testicles (if you think this is gross, I’d stop reading now). Bottom line is, I’m almost back to normal and I can’t wait to have all this behind me. Here’s the story: I spent last weekend in Antigua after having been in Cobán for a good two months (mostly in good health). After coming back on Sunday, I woke up Monday morning, got out of bed and all of a sudden felt like someone had just drop-kicked me in the nut. It was awful, but the pain was confounded by the dilemma of how to remedy the situation. I got back in bed and the pain went away. I thought, “Maybe if I just lay here awhile, it’ll go away. It’s just a rush of blood at the wrong moment or something, right?” Wrong. I tried to get up to make breakfast and about threw up from the pain. Laying down, things were totally normal, but as soon as I got up, the invisible man in the room would be waiting with his steel-tipped boot to send me right back down. So I got back in bed and tried not to think about getting up or really addressing the situation.

However, while I was in bed, I had plenty of time to think over the worst-case scenarios. You can imagine what that might be like, so I finally got the courage to call the Peace Corps. I practiced the line a few times so as to not sound horribly awkward. It came out surprisingly easy, and the nurse had me go right to the hospital. Apparently, the symptoms I described meant I could have a contorted testicle (i.e. tubes in a knot) and without treatment in a couple hours, I could lose it. Needless to say, I got my ass to the hospital regardless of the pain. The Coban doctor didn’t believe it to be contorted, but had no ultrasound to rule it out. Essentially, he gave what would later be the right diagnosis, but we didn’t know at the moment. So, not being able to rule out a contortion and potentially being an hour away from a Lance Armstrong situation, Peace Corps had to protect against the worst-case scenario. The doctor told me it was unlikely I was going to lose anything, but that I needed to get to the airport because a helicopter was on its way. I would pinpoint this as the moment where things went from understandable and normal, to “Holy shit they’re sending a @#$% helicopter!” It was all very strange. So, I busted it over to the airport, which is nothing more than a dirt road in a big field. It’s not the kind of place you expect planes or helicopters to actually land in. There were kids playing soccer on the runway and construction workers eating lunch. They were clearly not expecting any arrivals soon. Moreover, there was lightning everywhere and a big storm approaching. I still couldn’t believe that a helicopter was actually coming, and I imagined that if it did, there would be some awful disaster with the storm or that the chopper would at least land on the kids’ dog or something. It started to rain and then out of nowhere, there was a helicopter. I hopped in, laid on the gurney, and when I looked out the window, we were already out of Cobán and above the storm. At this point, I pretty much trusted what the Coban doctor told me, so I felt like it was a big overreaction. A couple hours earlier, I had thought I was just going to begin another normal week, and there I was on a gurney in a helicopter cutting through the mountains. The ride took about 30 minutes (as opposed to the normal five hours it takes by bus) and we landed in the international airport. There was an ambulance on the tarmac and I made it to the hospital in another 15 minutes. There were 3 doctors waiting and they got me an ultrasound and ruled out the contortion, thank God. At that point, it was just strange. I had at least 10 different people “probing” me and I was getting wheeled all over the place. I think I’d just stopped trying to understand it all and just let the day run its course. By the end of it all, the doctors figured out that it was a urinary tract infection gone awry, not a contortion. However, I was glad to be in the capital as the infection did end up getting somewhat serious. I spent the next few days in the hospital in total bed rest and until they let me out on Thursday. I had visitors and spent a lot of time on the phone, so it wasn’t such a bad deal. The Peace Corps med staff really pulled out all the stops, so I felt pretty comfortable. Now, I’m back in Antigua where they’re having me stay until I’m cleared for travel. The infection is just about gone, but tomorrow I’ve gotta get a final clearance by the doctor in the capital. It will be good to have this all be nothing more than a long story.

So, that’s the week news. On a different and far less dramatic note, here are some pics of my new apartment where I hope to be tomorrow night.

I live on the second floor.

**This is a private site that does not reflect the views of the U.S. Peace Corps**

Since Honduras, things have become very tranquilo. Basically, things have normalized for me to the point that all the random stuff going on around Cobàn is not so surprising anymore. That might help to explain why I haven’t updated this blog in awhile.

As of August 31st, I will have been in Peace Corps for a full year. I got kind of sick this weekend and couldn’t sleep much, so I had a lot of time to mull that over. Honestly, it’s amazing how quickly the time has shot by. Without seasons or semesters to measure, it’s hard to grasp a year in Guatemalan terms. My neighbor Roger, who is in the Ag program a year ahead of me, is now getting ready to finish up his service. One year from now, I’ll be in the same position having to leave Cobán.

It’s frightening having to even think about what doing after Peace Corps. Starting out, these two years seemed like an insurmountable amount of time. The first 6 months in site went by so slow that it was hard to imagine an exit. Now one year in, I can clearly see an end. What makes is scary is how much I’ve gotten used to living and working here. It’s that realization that some time soon, I’ve got to think about changing it all up.

On the bright side, it’s been a busy year and more than I could have imagined. Thank God I’ve got another one left.

Recently, there has not been too much to report on. Work has been steady and I’m pretty comfortable with where I’m at. My stove project is mostly finished and I’m trying to work more the cooperative women’s group. Also, I’ve been getting after the Q´eqchi classes. I’m able to carry out basic ideas and am beginning to get the hang of what people are saying.

Since coming back from Honduras, my plan has mainly been to try and really focus on work. Thus far, it’s been very rewarding. Compared to where I was a few months ago, I’m much more comfortable with my schools and everyone I work with. With one fairly successful project completed, I have a better idea of how to approach people and involve them. Basically, I see this period between my last trip and Christmas as a time to try and really get a lot done.

Other than that, the only other major news is that I moved apartments. My old place got too full of mold and was always loud. My new spot is in the big building with a family downstairs. It´s right in the middle of Coban and I´ve got an apartment on the second floor. House warming party this weekend.

**This is a private site that does not reflect the views of the U.S. Peace Corps** This past month or so since my last post has been wonderful. For one, I’ve been able to travel around a bit, once here in Alta Verapaz and again with John O’Connor visiting this past week in Honduras. Moreover, the projects with work have turned out well despite my periodic absences. To top it off, I think I’ve finally kicked the illnesses that have been plaguing me for the past three months (basically since the wet season began). The only significant downturn was a major one. I had a two-day bout with e.coli that made for hands down the worst 3 hours of my life. However, I think the cipro I took has given my system a clean slate. Anyways, a few weeks ago, I headed up about 3 hours north of here to camp at Laguna Lachua with some friends from Coban. Word has it the lagoon was created by a meteor way back when. Essentially, it’s a perfectly circular lake in the middle of the jungle. The waters are turquoise and clear. What’s more, the lagoon is filled with tropical fish, tarpon and huge crocodiles. Its remoteness and strange animal life give the lagoon a fairy-tale like feeling. The locals claim that if you swim out too far, the tarpons will encircle you, create a whirl-pool and take you down with them. We got eaten alive by mosquitoes, didn’t pack enough food and got soaked in our tents. Still, it rocked. It was worth the half day we got to swim around and jump off the rocks. A week or so later, John came down from KC for a two-week visit. From the airport we went right to our all-Peace Corps 4th of July party. We held it at the embassy marines’ house. It’s the one time of the year that a party is held where almost all volunteers come together. As you might imagine, it’s total mayhem. What’s worse is that we invite all the people from the embassy, including the ambassador to come see us cut loose like no other. Image issues aside, it was a blast. From there, John came up to Coban as I had to work before heading to Honduras. He checked out the cooperative for a day before heading up to Semuc Champey. In the meantime, I worked with my school kids before getting floored by e. coli. When John came back two days later, he was full of stories from Semuc and luckily missed the two days I spent in bed. That weekend, we took off for our trip to Honduras. We stopped first on the Guatemalan side of the border in Esquipulas to check out the Black Christ. It’s a Christ-figure carved out of dark wood that has become the biggest pilgrimage site in Central America. It’s like Fatima in the way that people come away miraculously cured. Perhaps it wasn’t the cipro that cured my ills. Strangely, right as I tried to take a picture, my camera freaked and erased all my photos, so clearly something is going on there. From Esquipulas, we headed over the border to Copan, Honduras. There we met Meghann and Katherine and checked out the Mayan ruins. It’s not quite Tikal, but Copan is famous for the Mayan glyphs preserved on its site. It was a cool stopover on the way to Utila. From Copan, we spent the day traveling by bus and ferry to make it to Utila, one of three Bay Islands off the northern coast of Honduras. It’s a chill Caribbean island settled by a mix of Garifunas, ex- English pirates and mainland Hondurans. The place is pretty much undeveloped except for the handfuls of dive-schools, hotels and restaurants. At the surface, it seems pretty scruffy, but the standard of living is higher than the mainland and the people are really warm. The island is pretty small and we only got to know the area between our hotel and the Utila Dive School where we all took our open water course. That really didn’t matter however as it was so much fun learning to dive. I’m addicted and I am completely rethinking my future travel plans in terms of how to get back to diving. Our Catalan instructor, Angel has been traveling the world for 15 years as a mountain guide and dive instructor. We frequently referred to him as super man and he’s now an idol to all of us, really. When John marked on his dive form that he was diabetic, Angel just ripped it up and had him fill out a new one. Instead of teaching from the book, he basically strapped all the gear to our backs and had us jump in the water after him. Besides Meghann jumping in un-inflated and almost drowning her first time in, it was a great way to learn. The man was fearless and it was impossible not to follow him. He’s logged over a 1000 dives with no one ever getting hurt and survived the tsunami while teaching in Thailand. We had an Irish girl in our class who broke down crying at the end of the class because she was so happy someone could get her through the course. We dived 6 times in open water and it was amazing. I spent five hours underwater on my birthday. I could really go on for hours about it. Angel lent us his underwater camera, so I put up a bunch of the pics on my photo site (www.guatedan.smugmug.com). I’m back in Coban now and there’s plenty to catch up on. Leaving Guatemala for a bit was great, but it does feel good to be back.

**This is a private site that does not reflect the views of the U.S. Peace Corps**

Again, I´ve been pretty lazy with the posts. Things have been plenty busy, so the time passes much quicker than I realize. The short version is that I´ve been working a lot with family and school gardens, got sick for about a month with various afflictions and I had a wonderful time when Liesl and John came to visit.

Now that the rains are back, it´s been good to get back into the ag. work. More than anything, this is one of the most rewarding part of work as I get to spend the days outside working with the families. About a month ago, I got invited to take part in the corn planting. Might not sound like much, but it plays a major role in Q´eqchi culture. We had to go in a cave the night before to give offering to the mountain spirit. The following morning, we started planting and didn´t finish till that evening. What´s interesting is how the people stick to the traditional practices. I had read an anthropologists study on the Q´eqchi from about 20 years ago that studied the rituals of the planting. Surprisingly, much of the traditions have held true over the year. For example, there are strict rules over how to plant, what you can eat, and of course that only men can plant. Marsha, my sitemate got stuck making tortillas in the kitchen, but to her credit, my hands were blistered and I was beat by the end of the day.

As for my ailments, I first got hit about a month and a half ago with awful food poisoning, Unfortunately, it hit me mid bus-ride on my way to the capital and lasted a good 36 hours. I let you imagine what that looked like. Later I got these crazy side-stiches that put me down for a week. Luckily by the team Liesl and John came, I was all better. However, two days into the trip, I managed to fall on a rock as I was getting into swim in Lake Atitlan. The water was Mediterranean beautiful and we were just getting ready to swim when I slipped and took a nice chunk out of my knee. Four stitches later, we were back in the water, so it wasn´t too bad. Also, on the last day of their trip, I got some nasty stomach bug, again, but I´m getting used to those and feeling better now. So the health has been touch and go, but all else has been good.

Liesl and John just took off this past Sunday. They were in for a little over a week and it and we managed to see a good chunk of Guatemala. We started it off posh by spending a night in Antigua before staying in a hotel carved into the cliffs over Lake Atitlan. Besides the whole previously mentioned rock incident, it was amazing. Afterwards, we headed up north to the town of Nebaj. We hiked around with our ex-guerrilla guide Nicolas for a day out to a village. The hike was stunning. The villages are up in the high Cuchumatanes mountains. The don´t look like anything you´d imagine out of Guatemala. The mountains are sharp with green valleys in between, it looked like something out of Switzerland.

After Nebaj, we took the long trip back to Coban where we took it easy for a couple days. I´ve gone easy on the detials. Basically, I got treated like a king for a week and I think John and Liesl really enjoyed the trip. It´s rare that we get to spend that much time together between just the few of us. It was a great week and should be encouraging for any other potential visitors our there.

At the moment, I getting back with things at work. It should be quiet for at least a couple weeks. However, today I got a one line email from none other than John O´Connor saying he´ll be here in three weeks. Life loves throwing curve-balls.

Since the last entry, things have stayed busy and all over the place. Most notably, Mom and Dad came to visit for Holy Week and I spent all of last week working on a medical team. Having Mom and Dad down was a great change of pace. In comparison to normal, I lived like a king for a week. We started out Tikal, then came down to Coban and Semuc Champey before heading down to Antigua and Lake Atitlan. For me, Tikal was the highlight as I had yet to make a visit. Compared to Coban or the highlands, the Peten is it's own universe. For one, it's flat and hot. Inside of Tikal, it's a lush jungle with loads of monkeys, ocellated turkeys and jaguars (so we heard).

After Tikal, we spent a few days around Coban and my site. After that we spent about 5 days just taking it easy in Antigua. One day, we went up to visit my training host family and another we took a day trip up to Lake Atitlan. Just relaxing in Antigua was great. It is definitely a tourist center, but it's just really good to soak it up sometimes. Check out Dad's photo site for the pics:

http://www.jimmyo.smugmug.com/

The week after Mom and Dad left turned out to be pretty slow. As I was gone for Holy Week, I really didn't plan anything for the following week. As such, there was little to do and it was hotter than hell, so pretty boring all around. This past week however, there was a medical mission in a town about 45 minutes from Coban. I had met the organizers before and they asked me to come down and help out with translating. Basically, a group of about 30 doctors, nurses, dentists and helpers came down from Michigan for the week to perform operations and give consultations. Since their time is limited, they cram in as much work as possible.

I spent the first part of the week helping the recovery nurses to communicate with patients after surgery. Most of the people had were having their gall bladders removed and hernia operations. It was myself and a few other volunteers doing most of the translation, so they had us working long days. We would usually get up around 7 to start and would still be helping the post-op nurses till about midnight. It was exhausting, but the need and the importance of the work seemed to keep us all awake and somewhat alert.

As the week went on, the surgeons started inviting us in the OR to watch. Later, they let us scrub in and get involved in the operations. This mostly involved holding retractors to keep people open. By about Wednesday, most of us had gotten a chance. At first I thought I'd get grossed-out by the whole thing, but the doctors got us right in and we didn't have time to think about ourselves. Basically, I just stood there quietly and did whatever the doctor said so to not screw anything up.

That night, I was beat, so I crashed early. At about 11:30, another volunteer came in as I was sleeping to tell me that "I was need in the OR, stat." My reaction to that was, "OK, this is total bullshit. I'm the only person in the hospital asleep and they just wanted to wake me up so I can run into the OR all excited and what not only to get laughed at." Also, you don't generally call history majors into the OR. As hard as it was and still is to believe, they actually did want me in the OR. The last scrub nurse had been working all day and about passed out, so they were out of people. Somehow I got the call.

One of the doctors had been trying to remove a gall bladder when the woman's main bile duct ruptured. So what was a routine 2 hour surgery ended up going over 5 hours. When I got into the prep room expecting to find everyone laughing, they were waiting for me with scrubs. So in about 10 minutes, I went from deep sleep to holding retractors across from a doctor covered in blood. What was so crazy is that I didn't even have time to ask questions. They just threw the scrubs on me and sent me into the room. At the time, I didn't have the slightest idea of what was going on. It wasn't until afterwards when everyone was calmed down that I had any idea of what kind of surgery it was or what had happened. I just stood there holding this woman open without a damn clue of what had gone wrong or why in the world they would want me as a scrub nurse.

Luckily, things turned out well for the patient. She's got a bit of recovery time yet, but should turn out all right. After that whole ordeal, the doctor had me scrub in for the rest of his surgeries. It was interesting and somewhat flattering, but completely exhausting. I've been sleeping 10 hours straight every night since I got back.

Overall, the week was a great change of pace. With medical missions, no one has to worry about sustainability. They are just providing a very needed to service to as many people as they can. In this work, you see the results right away as opposed to the years it takes with my normal job. I do enjoy what I'm doing right now, but it's simply nice to see things happen so quickly. A good week for sure.

Coming into my service here in Cobán, I was definitely expecting there to be a lot of down time. However, up until now that has really been a non-issue. These last few weeks have been especially busy and all over the radar. For one, Brandon, my old roommate came down to visit and travel. I also had my ¨Reconnect¨meeting in Antigua with the rest of my training class to sort of regroup and talk about where we´re at. At the moment, I´m back in sight after a fairly grueling week.

Getting out to travel a bit was an exhaustive but good experience. We took a few days to go visit the Eastern side of Guatemala. We started out by going to Río Dulce, a small river town about 20 miles in from the Caribbean. From there, we took a boat out to the mouth of the river to Livingston, a Caribbean Garifuna village that looks more like Belize than Guatemala. The river tour was by far the highlight. The area is thick with jungle and Africa hot, however there is hardly any development or residents for that matter. Unlike most other places I´ve seen, it was a pretty untouched piece of Guatemalan nature. Contrastingly, Livingston was dirty and fairly rough around the edges, yet it was interesting to see this completely different culture. From Belize on down the coasts of Guate, Honduras and Nicaragua, there are small populations of Garifunas. They are of African descent, speak their own language and hold onto their own traditions far different from those of indigenous Guatemala. Livingston is the center of Garifuna culture in Guatemala. Beyond the village scene, we were able to walk up the coast a few miles where we found a cool beach. Livingstone was interesting and all, but after a full day of bus travel, the hammocks on the beach were a welcome sight.

After Livingston, we took what was quite possibly the worst bus trip ever. Going from the Eastern seaboard to Antigua requires that one passes through the arid and desert-climate departments of Guatemala. Our bus was a jalopy and only had flat backed, narrow vinyl seats. What´s worse is that we were both having pretty serious bouts with stomach bugs. So, that sucked, basically. Luckily, with Antigua as our destination, we got to enjoy the mountain climate for the rest of the week. We climbed Volcán Pacaya the next day before Brandon left for Atitlán and I went to my reconnect meetings. It was great to just have a relaxed week in Antigua with all my friends that I hadn´t seen for months. The whole experience felt like training again; pointless meetings and no responsibility-a definite break from my hellion 3rd graders. I also got to spend a day catching up with my old host family from training. Leaving was something of a downer as I really enjoyed my time in that part of Guatemala.

Coming back to site this week has been a bittersweet experience. Workwise, I got a lot done planting with my women´s group every day. However, on Monday I got news that one of the coop kids, Bryan, who is the 8-year old son of the president had died while I was in my reconnect meetings. I haven´t been here that long, but I knew him briefly. He was adorable and was close with all the past volunteers. When I got back to site, they had already had the funeral, so it came as a big surprise frustration as I couln´t be here to deal with it. They don´t really know what it was. All I got was that he died from an "internal pain." He got sick one day and died the next. This is what is so depressing about the whole matter. While he came from a family that had done relatively well for themselves, they still had no access to even nominally adequate medical care. It´s just plainly frustrating and sad to see someone die who had been climbing out of the poverty that afflicts almost everyone else.

It has been interesting to watch how people here come to terms with death. Superficially, people just returned to work and seemed to go about their way. I know mothers who have given birth to 20 children and lost 8 of them. With those types of experiences and everything that happened with the war, it is easy to imagine that people just deal and move on. From my point of view, I just can´t imagine it possible to be attached to so many children with death lurking all over the place. However, while I was planting with a mother from my women´s group, we started talking about it. She said losing a child was "un dolor que nunca se quita, que se queda toda la vida" or "a pain the never takes itself away, one that sticks with you all your life." People are careful where to express themselves, and it mostly comes off as if they are really simple and subdued. Though given this experience, I can only imagine how much there is behind it all.