Sitting in the Dubai airport, I couldn't help but to think to myself of how far I'd come to be in that moment. For the first time in two years I walked into a Burker King to order a burger. And then it hit me. This food is nasty, horrible for your health, and could not compare to the freshness of market-that-day tomatoes and peppers that saturate Africa on a daily basis. 'We actually eat this crap?' was the first thought across my mind. Oh yes we do, and it costs a lovely 11 bucks with a large coke a the airport. That equivalent of money would have easily allowed me to eat for a week in Burkina Faso, and eat healthy and well.

Since that experience at the Dubai Airport I have spent much of my day reflecting on what had happened to me in my last two years. It's hard to believe sometimes that all of that has passed, waking up to donkeys and chickens is just an afterthought. Now it's back to the world of self-indulgence; everyone so obsessed with their Facebook status updates and inability to use a map because GPS on our iPhones has replaced our ability to think and deduce. What we don't understand, is that more than 4 billion people live without these needs and what we think as normal is completely abnormal in the larger scheme of things.

My journey since COSing has taken me on a Kenyan safari with my dad, a four day bleary eyed race to see my friends in DC, and the most lovely vacation to Belize to spend time with my girlfriend reconnecting with her in a way I only had dreamed of but didn't think possible. But the hardest part is yet to come, reconnecting with climate controlled houses, grocery stores, and popular culture.

The way I view the world now is so different than before. Other volunteers always say that the largest impact you will make is upon yourself. Did I save the world in Burkina? Absolutely not. The largest victory I can claim is reaching the lives of a few kids who maybe one day will pass onto thier children the knowledge of self-worth and hard-work that I tried to pass down to them. But what my community did for me- transformed me, changed me -is the true victory.

The next few weeks present a new set of challenges-challenges that I feel equipped and ready to face. Life is an adventure, and I want to enjoy every minute of it.

I realize that in the development of this blog I have left the general "what am I doing" posts to more specific anecdotes detailing stories that have happened to me since I joined Peace Corps, but I must once again return to the less interesting "what am I doing" considering that at this moment what I am doing is rather important.

I am in the middle of COSing, which in non Peace Corps speak means the administrative process taken before officially being a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer (RPCV). After tomorrow, July 1st 2011, I will no longer be a Volunteer but an alumni, a RPCV of Burkina Faso. It's a proud title that approximately 200,000 other Americans have acheived. With it (I hope) comes the newfound knowledge that I have gained after living in West Africa for two short years.

I have said my goodbyes to Tenkodogo, and am now in the process of doing the same with Peace Corps and other volunteers. It has been a wonderful service, a bittersweet moment, but alas more adventures await in the near and far future that I cannot wait to tackle. Where one door closes, others open.

I will write a far longer reflection blog when I return to the United States, but I just wanted to write a little to let everyone know that it's been fun writing for you and I hope you have enjoyed what you have read. Thanks to everyone who has supported me in the last two years; together it has been a wild ride.

This next week I will be flying to Kenya to see my father for what we hope to be an amazing safari experience. I will then fly home to see my mother and sister where I will most certainly beat my mother in a game of tennis before flying off to Belize to see my girlfriend for two weeks. I will more formally be home in the month of August with some family gatherings covering the month. Then comes September, where I will have to figure out my next steps.

But for now, I am in a good place in my life. I am proud of what I have accomplished, I have no regrets, and I am ready for the future!

Thank you everyone,

-Dylan

You're a good soldier

Choosing your battles

Pick yourself up

And dust yourself off

And back in the saddle

You're on the frontline

Everyone's watching

You know it's serious

We're getting closer

This isnt over

Futsal in foreground, basketball in back.

The pressure is on

You feel it

But you've got it all

Believe it

When you fall get up Oh oh...

And if you fall get up Oh oh...

Tsamina mina Zangalewa

Cuz this is Africa

-Waka Waka by Shakira

Winning boys team holding up the cup.

“What is Puberty?”

PCV's Anna Callaghan and Carolyn Glidden and some of the girls after a discussion of what is puberty and how does it affect boys and girls.

“What measure is the soul method proven to be 100% effective in preventing the transmission of HIV, STI’s, and unwanted pregnancy? What contraceptive is 99.99% effective?" Boys making a theater sketch on HIV and how to prevent transmission.

“When is it necessary to make a decision and how does one go about making one?”

Girls making a theater sketch on the importance of making smart and well-thought out decisions. Seen here with PCV Anna Callaghan.

“How do we protect ourselves against malaria?”

Girls learning how to properly use a mosquito net. The UN needs to come to realization that eradicating malaria is much more difficult than just giving away free nets. Many nets given out are promptly sold at markets or used as bathing rags for people not educated in the purpose of the net. More emphasis on education must be made in the effort against malaria.

These are just some of the many questions posed to the students enrolled in Rialé Youth Camp, 2011 edition. With the help of a couple volunteers and a friend in Tenkodogo, I have been busy running a camp aimed at teaching students between the ages of 12-18, boys and girls, about issues relevant to their development as young adults. A similar camp was run last year, but this year I opened the camp to girls in addition to boys. Every morning and afternoon, the participants, about 35 different kids so far, spend an hour in the classroom discussing the topics of puberty, HIV, malaria, decision making and how to deal with peer pressure, and goal setting. After the classroom activities, which includes games and discussion, the class is moved outside to the basketball court where basketball drills are run designed at reinforcing the lesson of the day.

A passing activity in which two players are blindfolded. Two teamates give the two blindfolded teamates directions on where to move and where to throw the ball. Activity encourages communication and trust.

Thanks to PCVs Anna Callaghan and Carolyn Glidden, who took charge of the girl side of the camp, and to my friend Rodrique Laconte, who aided me with the boys side, week one was a great success. While impossible to truly know, I feel that every student who participated learned about valuable life lessons relating to living in Burkina Faso. Also thanks to Kirstin Krudwig for donating some of her lesson plans and for encouraging me for the last month to do this camp. My friend Rodrique discussing goal setting with the boys.

Next week will see the arrival of several new volunteers, including PCVs Marina Spencer (who will be helping with the girls), Joey Grassi, and Luis Chidas. Activities next week include gender roles, study skills and how to use the local library, nutrition and sanitation, and environment with a futsal and basketball tournament to end the camp. Prizes will be given to students who have participated and demonstrated that they have taken to heart the new knowledge and to the teams that win the tournament. For those friends in DC who donated their used soccer equipment back in July 2009, the majority of it will be given out on Friday. Thank you for the donations.

Running basketball drills with the boys.

The most exciting part of the camp is that the Peace Corps Burkina Faso Director herself will be here next Friday to present the awards and to watch the tournament. Both the girls and boys have been asked to do theater presentations on malaria and HIV, respectively, in order to demonstrate the knowledge gained. Overall I am very happy with the way things have gone. It has taken a lot of energy to organize such an event and while I could just have easily spent my last three weeks of Peace Corps taking it easy, I decided to go out knowing that I gave it my all to one final project. I hope the kids remember the lessons, and remember me!

In living in West Africa, I realize that while I have posted photos and stories about specific events that happen to me, I have not posted any photos about the other 90% of my time here when I'm just living. Much of the time is spent in the way that most people spend their time, buying groceries, eating lunch, staying in shape through some sort of physical activity, etc. So without further ado, here are a few photos highlighting the things that I consider now, after almost two years, everyday normal life. Enjoy!

A typical market stand, selling all the pasta, couscous, rice, and MSG anyone could ever want.

Some ladies selling veggies. Depending on the season these stands can be full with all sorts of delicious treats, or have nothing at all but leaves.

A view of the market from afar.

A photo with the guy who cuts my hair (well buzzes my hair).

Two of the guys who cook up delicious goat meat. I could not resist holding the machete.

Look at all that delicious goat meat. Dinner is served.

The grand mosque of Tenkodogo. Located right next to the market.

The central star of my school. In the background there is a flagpole where every evening there is a ceremony to take the flag down. On the left is the cafeteria and in the way back is the teacher's lounge. Classrooms are to the right and behind where I took the photo.

It's either basketball or futsal for me every evening. I play with a mix of students and other guys who come out to play. Seen here is me being schooled by a student doing a fade-away. He in particular has unbelievable talent and, with proper coaching, could be a force on any high school basketball team.

Students at the end of the year gather for a tradional fashion show.

They climb trees and,

windows

Just to get a glimpse of the interesting clothing from the Bissa, Mossi and more ethnic groups.

Thanks to a student that who loaned me his Taureg garb,

I made a fool of myself and said goodbye to a school and its student body that I will never forget.

I think the judges were very impressed. They certainly got a laugh of it anyway.

Oh well I had my fun saying fairwell to my students. It was back to work for Monsieur Dylan. Seen here are other teachers busy at work calculating grades.

Sorry world, we can’t be James Bond. We don’t move through a line of bullets as if there is a magical 007 force field protecting us from all sorts of interesting weaponry (though if there was an upgrade for +1 force field protection I would be first to get it). Nope Super Duper Double O Seven Awesome Spy does not exist, there is no twice, you only live once. I’d like to say that my mantra in life is “Try anything once.” I’m sure some can certainly prove otherwise that I have not quite followed this, and I do not include paying large sums of money to see Taylor Swift in concert or any other equally moronic event, but I think I have done pretty well trying to accomplish my goal. Hell, I joined Peace Corps didn’t I?

Bill Bryson in his book A Walk in the Woods discusses the theme of man losing touch with nature, but more importantly of man losing touch with himself. While I have not finished it yet (fantastic read by the way), it’s impossible not to think about how similar hiking the Appalachian Trail (AT) is to serving in the Peace Corps. Both are voluntary challenges that push your body and mind to limits that you never thought possible. I can’t help to relate with Mr. Bryson when he discusses how petty things in life become so insignificant when faced with more innate human needs, like food, water, and shelter. Take a break from all of the technology and the fast-paced American lifestyle and you begin to see that life is more than all of that. Even if the desire and need to immerse yourself once again in the familiar is there (believe me, I am at that point), you find that once you have experienced simplicity you can never truly go back. A walk through the Burkinabé woods leads to such marvelous views.

There are some days where I leave class thinking ‘I love this job,’ so much so that I think about potentially doing a 3rd year. Some days I leave class thinking ‘That was ok, there is always tomorrow.’ These are the days when my French is perhaps not at its best or days when, towards the end, a few students act up forcing me to act the role of parent-I wish I could say disciplinarian.

Then there are the days where all I can think about is leaving class to go home and read a book or watch a movie. These are the days where class is so unruly that I literally spend 30 minutes of my 2 hour session doling out punishments, usually point reductions or sending kids to the discipline office. These are the days that I hate, that make me want to leave. Everyone has them, they are called “bad days.”

I wish I could say that what happened today ranked in the “bad day” category. No, today was even worse. Today was a get-me-the-hell-out-of-here kind of day. Surprisingly, this was not the result of a student, or an unruly class. Yes towards the end of class students begin to get ansy, but hell, I would be to if I had to sit through a two hour math class-half of which you can’t even understand your crazy American teacher because he continues to babble on in French. (On another note, the system here needs a change in the way classes are run. Two hours of math in a row for a class of 100+ students is asking a lot for a group of adolescent teenagers. I can say this safely knowing that most of my Burkinabé colleagues feel the same way.)

About 30 minutes into class, the principal enters the room to make an announcement to students. It is very rare that the principal makes an appearance in class so I thought to myself ‘this must be important.’ With all the exterior events going on it must be so right?

WRONG!!!!!!

Proviseur (principal), “Good morning students.”

Students, “Good morning Monsieur le Proviseur.”

Proviesuer, “There is no class tomorrow or Saturday. (Students erupt into cheering). There is a sport competition tomorrow and the government has asked to use our school for their personal chambers.”

I’m sorry what?

Due to some random soccer tournament, the school will be housing all the competitors and there is not one free room for students to have school. So naturally, let’s just cancel class in a school year already shortened by civil unrest so we can play soccer.

I love soccer as much as the next person, but seriously? It’s as if the second half of this year never existed so why not go ahead and cancel whatever we’ve got left? Students are not even half way done with their course material and we are canceling 2 of the remaining 9 days of school to play host to a soccer tournament. This school week was a lousy 2 days. 2 days!!! Strikes closed school Monday and Tuesday, and now sport closes school for another two days.

That gives me 7 days to finish 5 chapters of my textbook and to give one test so I can actually have something to give a grade for. Semester 2 = 5 weeks of total class, Awesome.

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Continued Later

Even though I did not agree with cancelling school for this, it was a good time. Different sporting events took place throughtout town including soccer, handball, and basketball tournaments. Our highschool won the basketball! By default because there were no other entries. But thats ok, they had a tournament against themselves.

365 days ago I was 24. That means that 365 days later from 365 days ago is today, and that 24+1 = 25, or better termed the “quarter-century mark.” Dylan Butler is 25 this May 5th, 2011! Rather scary actually that I have gotten to be this age really, the future of America rests in the souls of folks like me. Good luck USA! Enough with the sarcasm and comedy, this birthday marks a point in my life of deep reflection. So without further ado, it’s time to highlight the defining moments of what has been perhaps the most interesting year of my life so far.

While this technically does not count for this year since our one year anniversary was is in March, it is still very worth mentioning that this last year saw Dylan change his perennial Facebook relationship status from single to in a relationship. It’s certainly been an exciting and difficult year but the most solid thing throughout was a blossoming relationship with Ms. Kirstin Krudwig that continues to this day and onwards into the country of Belize. Don’t worry parents, you still get recognized as well. Without the love, support, and strength of my parents I certainly would never be where I am today. While it is very difficult to think of the near tragedy that happened last August, it is a testament to the strength of my family that my mother was able to spend her birthday in absolute amazing health. For my family to have gone through such a difficult event and to come out even better is something to be thankful for and astounded by. And, while not yet arrived, my sister Hannah will be celebrating her 21st birthday this August, another milestone soon to be achieved. I would also like to thank my Uncle Mark Schoofs and my Aunt Judy Bello for being so instrumental in ensuring that we could all celebrate the 4th and the 5th in happiness this year.

My cousin Jackie just celebrated her quarter century and just received her Master’s of Education from Johns Hopkins, and while not the winner this year (hey we need to share achievements with others right?) Mark Schoofs was a finalist for a second Pullitzer Prize. It’s clear that I won’t win that award because I’m not even sure I spelled it right, but I am proud of the improvements and new-found love in my writing that this last year has granted me. It is very important to note, that above all, I have spent the last year of my life in the peaceful country of Burkina Faso. Well, for most of the last year, peaceful. Burkina Faso has demonstrated an amazing test of wills in surviving through the near crisis that plagued its peoples for almost 3 months. Some of you are informed on the situation, and others not (it’s cool, don’t feel bad), but the last few months proved to be a very difficult time for the nationals of this small but great country and I owe much to my dear friends who assisted me along the way, through the good and bad.

In between my 24th and my 25th, the world has undergone quite a few changes. Most notably the revolutions across the Middle East and the geographical shift of the island-nation of Japan caused by one of the most tragic earthquakes in recorded history. I have news from my dear JICA friends, in particular Yoshie and Kaego are doing very well considering. Most recently the world has witnessed the death of the world’s most infamous man and #1 terrorist, Osama Bin Laden. The world has also seen the first Royal Wedding in years (which I don’t particularly care about), and the 4 game sweep of the Washington Capitals by the Tampa Bay Lightning (which I will cry about tomorrow, not today!). In two months I will be home, where I plan on spending my 26th birthday. Two birthdays across the sea in a land called Burkina Faso has put my life in great perspective, and I will never forget what has come to pass as a result of my experiences here.

Last but not least, R.I.P. Bob. You were a good little puppy. *I want to apologize for the lack of photos. Ever since my ASUS netbook broke (they suck by the way and could use better customer service) I have been unable to shrink photos with Picasa photo-editor to make uploading photos a breeze.

When I lived in Thailand in 2007, football (soccer), or more specifically futsol, was my best tool to integrate and make friends. Futsol, played 4v4 with small goals on a blacktop, was the most popular sport at my university. Teams would gather every night for hours to compete for that coveted right to say, “I am better than you.” I played almost every night and made many friends doing so. My love of football and futsol has allowed me to make friends around the world; doesn’t matter that I’m terrible at it. I always bring a pair of cleats with me because you never know under what strange rock you will find a match.

Countries and places that I have played football in since 2007: Thailand, Burma, Vermont, Washington DC (all over), Seattle, Stanford University, Golden Gate Park San Francisco, Guinea, Mali, the beaches of Ghana, and of course Burkina Faso. I have played on almost every surface from turf, to grass, to dirt, to rocks with locals and friends alike. Only music in my opinion can rival the power football has in bringing people together.

When I went home for Christmas last December, I found a futsol that was donated to me in my pile of assorted donated soccer equipment. I remembered how much I loved futsol as a game; its fast-pace and quick footwork puts players above the rest. Playing on a hard surface limits contact and frankly that is just fine by me-I am not in the business of getting hurt.

Could I get a futsol group started in Tenkodogo? Why not, it’s worth a shot. Football is religion here, kids and adults never stop playing no matter what condition Mother Nature throws at them. I returned with the futsol ball and began organizing a group right away.

Along with two of my friends Rodrique and Las, the group began slowly. We started by playing Sunday mornings with a turnout of 6-10 people. This continued for two months and some days nobody would show up at all. Then, the strikes happened. My high school gave us permission to use the small metal goals we have for classes to play our own futsol matches and then futsol took off.

With all the downtime allotted to the residents of Tenkodogo with the school closings, people picked up futsol as a replacement activity. We played so often (it was my friend Rodrique that took charge) that we destroyed our ball. Just the other day we had over 20 people come out and over 50 spectators. We have officially become a club, and as a result players are pooling in money to pay for new balls. I have loved watching this project grow from nothing to a very popular sport and for others to share my interests in the great game.

Football creates bridges that no other game can do. If you are a world traveler and enjoy spending time with locals, not other travelers, pick up the game of football (guitar and/or drums is another option). You may be terrible at it and often you will be the worst on the field-playing against kids who have played since they first walked will do that to you. But that’s not the point. It’s the spirit of the game that is important. Nobody cares that you stink (but being awesome makes you pretty badass), most people are just happy to have an exchange created only through the football pitch. Pick up this activity and just watch the fruits of it grow, there is a damn good chance that you will find footballers everywhere.

Maybe one day you will win the right to say on the football or futsol pitch, “I am better than you.”

Yes that is exactly right. Monday was the first time I had a math class since February 17. In between my last class and my first class of April the world has seen the fall of Gaddafi’s government in Libya, an astronomical earthquake in Japan, and the escalation of the crisis in the Ivory Coast (but authorities have arrested Laurent Gbagbo so hopefully we will see that situation end). Amazing really how our singular planet can change so match in such relatively little time.

If you have noticed (or have not), I have not mentioned at all on my blog why I have not been teaching since February. Burkina Faso too has seen its fair share of…change? After the softball tournament I was forced to stay in the Peace Corps medical unit and the day I returned was the first day of student led strikes in an effort to support a fellow student who was mistreated by authorities but the cause was blamed on something different (I won’t go into details but I encourage everyone to read up on it). Since those strikes started there has been a whirlwind of activity.

Schools were closed nationwide for weeks with marches flaring up in every major town throughout the country. Tenkodogo was relatively untouched by the demonstrations for weeks until last week.

The last week of March signaled my close of service conference, or the conference for those volunteers who will be finishing in a short period of time (my official day is July 29). During the conference, tempers in Tenkodogo flared up and as a I result I stayed in Ouaga for an extra week.

During the week in Ouaga other Volunteers and I decided to at least make the most of our situation by doing something in Ouaga. We visited an orphanage, helped our medical team with inventory, and planted moringa trees. Volunteers who are stuck in Ouaga often choose to stay very inactive. There is always work to do in Burkina Faso, no matter where you are, and the four of us (coined the M-Team for our medical inventory work) made the most of our respective situations.

Country wide situations have calmed, and finally we are back in school. Students are very happy to be back, especially those who have major tests at the end of the year. Teachers as well are happy to be back because now we have something to do again! Tenkodogo as a whole is calm and life is returning to normal.

So what has happened the last 7-8 weeks? I’m not really sure. I don’t wish to disclose any more than I have. There is clearly much more that has happened, but I tried to write the dullest, detail-lacking blog entry as possible for two reasons: 1) to encourage you to read up on what has passed here and 2) to let people know that I have not been a ghost the last month. Things happened out of my control and my blog suffered for it

Oh so many colors...

Negativity and selfishness have defined my life in the past few weeks. A combination of heat and events outside my control have limited much of my ability to do work. I have tried, with little success, to create activities and opportunities to occupy the extraordinary amount of time recently made available to me. A library project and a youth conference discussing public health and water sanitation have both been delayed until further notice (effectively canceled). I've been trying, but with situations as they are it is proving to be a very difficult time.

Some of the basketball team painting and participating in the Rainbow Project.The problem with all of this is that I have allowed the boredom and lack of motivation to take over. So many activities, so many cancellations, what am I to do? Frankly, I have not been occupying the time as well as I could be doing, no fault can be blamed on anyone but me for that. Yes things are difficult right now, but I need to stay motivated or all of this becomes a dull existence.Today, as I am wallowing in a state of purgatory, I see a blind child with the largest smile on his face. He is singing along to the radio, and singing loud for all to hear. Other children and adults giggle to themselves, but I am inspired. Here is a child, blind perhaps since birth, taking pride in the spirit of music. He does not notice those around cracking jokes at his expense, the child is simply enjoying himself.My Japanese friend Akiko instructing us on what to do. The Rainbow Project is an art project using paint as a platform for discussing diversity created by JICA.How can I be so selfish and negative? How can I think life is so awful because I have not been allowed to work lately? I am an able bodied 24 year old male, in terrific overall shape and with an education not afforded to those that I work with to no fault of their own. Yet, I whine and moan that my life is so terrible. This child, pending unforeseen medical advances, will never be able to distinguish the beautiful colors of the rainbow. If he is one day to have children of his own he will never be able to see them with his own eyes. I can't imagine such a fate. I live in a land where my problems are laughable. My petty needs, seeming so grave to me, would be problems desired by most of the world. I have a job. I have healthcare. I can pay for myself to eat, to drink a cold beer, to travel and see friends whenever I feel.The finished project, before connecting them to form "the rainbow." I pay for medicine with my own money knowing that I will be reimbursed. That is not the case for most of the world. Burkinabe health clinics do not have the money for sterile latex gloves, it is the people that must buy them for the doctors. Why would you pay for a pair of gloves knowing that if you do there will be no food for your family that evening? I certainly would rather risk unsanitary treatment over not feeding my family. Then we see the devastation of Japan. An astronomical earthquake of 9.0 wipes out an entire part of a country leaving thousands of people dead and hundreds of thousands displaced. I received an email from my dear friend Yoshie telling me about the situation. She cannot find some of her friends. I know that fear, all of us Americans do. It's a fear that nobody ever wants-remember September 11th 2001, and then Hurricane Katrina, August 2005. Man made disaster or natural, both are equally devastating. My buddy Kaego is returning to Japan Sunday after finishing two years of JICA volunteer service in Burkina Faso only to return to the most horrible natural disaster to ever hit Japan. I cannot imagine the fear and anxiety that is plaguing my Japanese friends here in Burkina, the feeling of helplessness that I know so many of them feel. After finishing the first assingment the kids started painting whatever they felt. Students are very creative, they just need encouragement and the means.Then there is Cote d'Ivoire. The devastation of a failed government on the verge of war has preyed on the mind of many of my friends here in Burkina Faso. Almost every Burkinabe has a friend or a family member in what was once the most successful and stable country in West Africa. Many of my friends live in fear that everyday one of their own will fall victim to the deteriorating situation in Cote d'Ivoire. Nevertheless, these people are surviving. I am truly inspired by the spirit of those around me, and disgusted with my own attitude. My friend Akiko asked me to organize a group of students to participate in the Rainbow Project. While I did not know the project, I agreed to help when she explained it as an art project designed to discuss diversity and acceptance. Here is a Japanese woman, not directly affected by the earthquake but certainly still affected, moving on and trying to do what she can despite tragedy. Boys and girls who came to participate are still in high spirits despite difficult situations outside of their control throughout West Africa. Still unsure how writing in Japanese encouraged this student to write in English. On the left is "I love you," on the right is his name in Japanese.The idea of the project is to mix colors in ways to demonstrate that while each color is distinct, each one is also a mix, a platform to discuss the topic of diversity. Even though Burkinabe, Japanese, and Americans are all from different backgrounds, religions, and cultures, it's amazing the things that we share in common. We must embrace our differences and celebrate our similarities, it's the only way people will make it in this world. I have family and friends that love me, a wonderful girlfriend who reminds everyday that this world is a beautiful place, an African community that has welcomed me and taken care of me, and of course my health. I try to take none of it for granted.

This "little" guy is the real reason why I use a mosquito net at night. Heard him hit my screen door with a large *thud* last night while I was getting ready for bed. Malaria is a scary thing, but there is no way I want to be waking up with that guy in my bed (I've already woken up to a bat flapping around inside my mosquito net). This beetle thing happens to be the same size as a medium sized bar of soap. Scary huh?

Peace Corps is known for being an experience where no day is like any other, and Burkina Faso is certainly a country that has the ability to give the gift of surprise each and every day. Given my interesting experiences in the weeks passing since the infamous softball tournament (which I am now known for as being the coach who led his team to an 0-3 record!), I can certainly verify the truth in each day being different from the last.Even the desert has flowersIt all started actually 2 months ago in the USA after a soccer match with my buddy Chris and his family. After returning home from the friendly match I began to complain of abdominal pain. Various people can attest to this fact. I simply figured the pain was sport induced so I did nothing about it. It continued to bother me for a few days, than I decided it was time to do some of my own research online. I discovered that the only problem most related to what I was feeling was a failure to pass gas...During the last two weeks I visited a family that makes ceramic pots for a living Sure enough, the pain went away. And then it came back. But then it went away again. And then it returned. Can you see the pattern? Every time I thought it was time to see the doc, the pain went away and I decided against it. Then came the softball tournament. When I last blogged, I had done so in the state of good health-about two hours before my body began to fall apart. I went to bed that night with intense abdominal pain centered in the oblique section of my body. This was it, I was already in Ouaga, and it was time to go see the doctors. At first the answer seemed simple. It was ruled an oblique muscular strain, an injury often sustained in baseball or softball. Treatment was easy, I needed to do something that frankly I am simply not good at-rest and no physical activity. In order to force me into a regime of no sports, I had to stay in Ouaga for 3 more days after the softball tourney. Finally Thursday rolled around, doctors gave me the OK, and I went to site. I was not happy that I had already missed a week of school, but health always comes first. That's when Burkina decided to give a surprise. The day before, protests broke out in a city called Koudougou west of Ouagadougou. Information about these protests have since been highlighted in brief by the New York Times and the Washington Post. I won't go into the actual event, but I encourage all interested to read up. In response to these student lead protests the government of Burkina chose to shutdown schools country wide to prevent further protesting in other communities. Of course, that includes my town of Tenkodogo. I went back to site only to find all doors to school locked tight. No students have been allowed in the school grounds since Friday, February 25th. So I have been sitting around twiddling my thumbs, watching Dexter and It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia, and reading The Help, among others. That's when my stomach concluded that is was time to say hello again, and this time it decided to bring with him an ankle injury. Taking advantage of the no-school situation (every cloud has a silver lining right?), I went to Ouagadougou again for further examination on both injuries. Turns out that by neglecting to treat my stomach early I allowed an infection manifest. Treatment is simple, just some antibiotics, but it's quite a relief to no longer feel the cramping that accompanied my stomach for months. I suffered a rolled ankle, whose treatment requires that I wear an Ace Bandage for several weeks. But what kind of story would this be if I didn't have something else go wrong? I had to get a mole removed and as I type this I have 3 stitches in my back where a mole used to be. My body is finally recovering, and I believe that Burkina is returning back to normal-all good things. This past weekend, Ouagadougou played host to the biannual FESPACO film festival. I had the privilege to see two films, one from Egypt and another about Chinese business in Africa, and specifically Zambia. The preceding was very entertaining, and the latter was extremely interesting. Though I wish I had seen more (apparently the winner was a Burkina made kung fu movie), I was very happy that I was able to be a part of the moment.Look at all those ceramic pots, afterwards they gave me one But best of all, last night I saw the legendary Malienne singer Salif Kaeta in concert. The set was horribly done, acoustics were worse than my high school dances, and the opening act lip-sang. Thank goodness Mr. Kaeta is such an excellent musician. Despite all the negatives, Mr. Kaeta delivered a beautiful performance and I encourage anyone interested in music from West Africa to listen to Mr. Kaeta. After a very bizarre two weeks (or maybe this is normal now?), I am back in Tenkodogo preparing for a return to school tomorrow. I remain highly skeptical, especially considering that Tuesday is International Women's Day, a federally observed holiday here in Burkina. Nevertheless, I will be there, hopefully giving my first math lesson in over two weeks to a group of students that I hope will be excited to have class again. Best of all, my health seems to be returning too!

Last weekend, if you can recall from my previous entry, I took the GRE in Ouagadougou. In preparing to take the next step in life after Peace Corps, I have begun making early preparation for graduate school. While the GRE is only a small step, it is a first step into a process that may take the latter part of this year to complete. My target is fall 2012, assuming the world does not end. While I won't go into too much detail about post Peace Corps plans since mainly there are no details yet, for the first time in my life I feel ready and excited to go back to school, and unlike undergrad, I'm going in with an objective. This weekend is the exciting international softball tournament of Ouagadougou. It's called SOFANWET. Why? I have no idea. Along with several Peace Corps staff members and other volunteers, we have assembled a formidable team this year. Before leaving the United States my dad gave me a set of DVD's entitled 'Baseball.' Ken Burn's insightful series, almost 24 hours in length, takes an in depth look at the history of baseball and it seems to emulate the history of America. This series has got me so hooked on baseball again that I have picked up an old glove and begun throwing the ball against a wall in my yard. Let's hope this rediscovered love for the game I grew up with translates into a good performance on the field. This Friday, we will find out!

It's Coming Cold season in Burkina is purely fantastic. Yes there is the problem of the dust filled wind where ever breath you take feels like you are breathing pure exhaust. The sky is a gloomy color of grey. The wind makes it very difficult to pedal your bicycle 10 feet. But it's not hot. It's Coming... In cold season it does not get past 90 in the day, and nights drop down to a comfortable 70. No fan, no problem! Often I found myself taking warm bucket baths and wearing a hoodie to bed. The weather was indeed so nice that you actually feel cold sometimes. It's Coming... The fan is being turned on in the day; sometimes in the night. No more sweater, no more jeans. Cold drinks are becoming a neccesity again. The cold shower becomes your only shelter. Sweat begins to drip down your body all hours of the day-and night. It's Coming... In the hot month of October, there is one relief-that cold season is coming. In the back of your mind you know that you only need to tolerate the heat for one month before the cold scours the land. In February, there is no such relief. It's Coming... The outlook is grim. It does not get any colder. Sleeping outside becomes the norm because the home feels like a sauna. The days of 120 degree heat and 100 degree nights are near. The hot season is coming folks, be afraid, be very afraid.

In an effort to practice my writing at the encouragement of my aunt, I wrote this story. Hope you enjoy. Warning: this story has nothing to do with Burkina except a tiny blurb at the end. Once upon a time, in a place greatly different than our own, an organization was formed to standardize the university application process. Based in the backwards land of New Jersey, this tax-exempt organization held a gathering of highly elite members of society to find a way to cash in on its citizens by offering a useless, but labeled as imperative, program for innocent people wishing to go to school. What they developed was so horrible, so scary, that mid-twenty somethings dare speak its name for fear of exile from friends. The Elite Totalitarians of Society (ETS) unleashed this beast from the depths of New Jersey upon all the world Gaia; it was called the Grim Reaper of Education (GRE). The GRE has forced thousands of poor civilians to pay a grandiose sum of 200 dollars to take an archaic exam so that he or she may receive an education. Where does this money go? Only the GRE knows. Members of ETS have been allowed to operate under a discrete cover of tax-exemption for years. Of course, institutions of higher learning, desperate to strip people of their individual qualifications to simplify the application process were easily seduced by the will of the GRE. This beast of New Jersey consumed others through money and greed. Making profit off of innocent students is a practice as old time, the GRE is simply a reincarnation of another horrid creature, the Savage Android Terminator (SAT) released upon millions of idealistic and innocent high school minds to win yet even more cash. Even though citizens view the GRE with a disdaining eye, only until recently has there been a change of principals by universities to return to its roots of accepting based upon their individual qualifications, not upon the vicious GRE. Can we fully blame the university? Perhaps, but failure to accept the dreaded GRE may have lead to other beasts being released upon the land, including the dark creatures of the consumer driven ideals of “Jersey Shore” and the money and sleaze pit known as Atlantic City. Where are the Robin Hoods, the John Connors, the Luke Skywalkers, destined to fight the ongoing invasion of the GRE? Educational centers, paying little attention to the needs of its young minds, have allowed the GRE to continue gauging the land of precious green. Combined with the eye-popping costs of graduate university, the poor student is left with debt and interests rates that take years to pay off. Slowly, but surely, the stain of the GRE is being removed from society. Many institutions no longer value the beasts pointless antonyms, synonyms, and 7th grade math choosing instead to regard the personal qualities of its applicants. Some have even abandoned the beast altogether. The GRE is morphing to adhere to the stringent demands of a 2011, but it may be too late. The rise of quality international education is rendering monopolizing beasts like the GRE useless. Therein, we have found our hero: the evolving demands of a 21st century. Unfortunately even with the arrival of our hero, the GRE has consumed yet another victim. I will be succumbing, resentfully, to its will this Saturday in the far away land of Burkina Faso. Wish me luck!

Call it a part of the human condition, I need to feel physically exhausted from time to time to make my life feel worthwhile. If I don't exert energy to the point of exhaustion from time to time I feel like a waste of space, like a vegetable. Sitting behind a computer 8 hours a day just is not me. It has been more than a month since my last major bike ride. I tend to absolutely despise bike rides, just as how I despise hiking. But it's the feeling of accomplishment when all is said in done that I crave. That endorphin rush one feels after exercise is second to none, and while during a bike ride all I can think is “how much I hate my life,” for the next two days I can think “Man, I am awesome.” With Kirstin now in Belize I don't have a reason to do a long bike ride. In September through December I would habitually ride out to her village, 45km once every or every other week. I hated it every single time, but it was the feeling of accomplishment after every ride (plus seeing Kirstin on one end) that gave me the energy to keep going, to keep being a Peace Corps volunteer. Peace Corps can be stressful, but alleviating that stress through exercise I believe is an excellent way to channel all that energy. Plus one ride would give me the energy to deal with all I have to deal with for at least a couple days after. So this week, not having left site since I arrived from America, I needed-deserved-a bike ride. But where? Kirstin's village is out of the picture for awhile, I need to let the new volunteer there have some time to make the village her own before visiting again. I decided to do a route that I have been talking about for a long time, but just never summed up the energy. I was going to bike down to Carolyn's site, my neighbor and friend in Bagre. On a map there is no road, but that doesn't mean in Burkina Faso that a road doesn't exist. I asked many of my friends about the route, and they all said yes, a road exists, but be sure to ask people in Ouenzeogo (a small village 17km from my house) because the road can be difficult to find. They all also said I was crazy for wanting to do such a ride. Difficult to find? No, it's a least 10 meters wide and although it is an unmarked turnoff, as long as you ask someone in Ouenzeogo it is very easy to find. Difficult to ride? Yes, easily the most difficult bike ride of my entire life. While the road from Tenkodogo to Ouenzeogo is simple, the road from Ouenzeogo to Bagre is no fun at all. Have you ever road a bike on a beach? Did this beach have no water for miles? Did this beach lack all signs of human civilization? Was it 105 degrees on this beach? If you answered yes to these four questions than congratulations, you have biked the Ouenzeogo-Bagre road! For 10km I struggled at a speed equivalent to a child in full sprint through sand. I saw only 2 people the whole way, both were Peulh men pushing their bicycles. When the most physically adept group of people to this climate (the Peulh) cannot even ride, you know you are in for it. It took me an hour and a half to ride 10k, with my saving grace being a small pump for water at the end of the road. By the time I reached Bagre (which is actually another 8km by the time you intercept civilization), I was dead. Drained both physically and emotionally, I could barely muster up the energy to sit up at Carolyn's house. It wasn't until the evening that I got my endorphin rush and could finally appreciate what I had just done. But then once I got that, I realized that the ride was the best ever, and that I am definitely going to do it again! Maybe my friends in Tenkodogo were right after all. There is nothing like seeing Africa from the perspective of a bicycle on bush roads. The sites, the silence, and the smells are incomparable to anything found elsewhere. Despite the brutal heat, in bush country the people are incredible, willing to give you water, food, and tremendous hospitality for nothing in return. I know that if I were to have serious problems in bush country I could walk up to anyone and they would go out of their way to help me, care unmatched by the fast-paced lifestyles of the African city-and let's not even get started on the developed world. In the end, I think it is for this reason that I love hopping on my bicycle to ride into the unknown. In Tenkodogo I sometimes feel that I am missing out on what makes Africa so incredible, the people. Being so involved in my school doesn't give me the time to work with the less educated, my adult friends are all teachers and everyone speaks French. When I am on a bike I get to see a population that is very much the same as it was 100 years ago, unchanged by cell phones, internet, and technology. Seeing the smiles of the men, the women, and the children in bush makes everything, makes me, feel worth it.

This week folks have the pleasure of reading two blog entries. One about my reentry into Tenkodogo, and this blog entry about the 10 hours that I had running around the streets of Paris.

Paris is in a word, beautiful. Even in freezing cold temperatures and being completely unprepared for them, it is still an incredible and lively city, with years of history following you everywhere you go. It's also f***ing expensive!

When one takes a flight from the USA to Burkina, it is normal to have a long day's layover in Paris. Transatlantic flights typically leave IAD in the evening, arriving in Paris at around 6AM the following day. And since Air France runs only one airline to Burkina daily during the evening, travellers are left with two choices, to wait around in an airport for 10 hours, or to venture into Paris. So like any good traveller, I said, “Bring it on Paris.” I went downstairs and paid the very INEXPENSIVE price of €8.70, about 12 dollars, to board the subway to Paris. I knew I was in for an expensive afternoon when I asked a man politely to help me with the ticket machine only to realize that the price given was not a mistake as I had previously thought.

I descended at the Eifel Tower and looked up, because the station deposits you literally right next to the Eifel Tower. It is something that I have only seen in pictures and movies, and none of that, nor the weather of a 7AM January morning, takes away from the magic that is the Eifel Tower. I attempted to take an elevator up top deciding that the elevator line was so short that I could not refuse. While standing in line I met a nice family from LA, who were so generous in giving me a pair of hand warmers after they realized that I was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Subsaharan Africa who had forgotten what real cold weather feels like. Finally the elevators opened up, and realizing that one has to pay €10 just to take the elevator half way (the top was closed for repairs) decided that my money was best spent somewhere else, like a nice warm coffee. Only €4-score!

After the Eifel Tower I began my power walk through the streets of Paris. I crisscrossed many of the bridges that span La Seine on a route progressing towards Le Pont Neuf and the island that contains the lovely Notre Dame. During the route I took a side journey down Avenue des Champs-Elysées towards L'Arc de Triomphe. I noted that every single item on that famous street had a price of more than the forty or so Euros I had in my pocket, and that includes the hamburgers at McDonalds.

I continued to walk down Champs-Elysee until the road ends at Le Louvre. Unfortunately I did not have time to enter, but given that the line was 504 hours long I thought it best to continue on (rumors are that it can take 23 years to get inside the Louvre during summer time). I decided at this point that I was hungry and chose to eat at one of Paris's finest restuaraunts, a döner shop that also sold wine - the French fries in Paris are absolutely fantastic! In all serious though, even the table wine at €5/spoonful is way better than the boxes of wine served in Burkina Faso.

My final stop was the grand cathedral of Notre Dame. This was perhaps my favorite place as it was actually FREE to enter. So like any good Peace Corps volunteer, I went inside. And sat. Because outside it was freaking freezing and I still had an hour to kill. Despite no hunchback greeting me at the door, I walked around and just stared in awe at the history and beauty of the place. It is a gothic cathedral, but even the dark cathedrals of a thousand years ago still remain some of the world's most beautiful structures. Sorry DC fans, but as lovely as our cathedral is, one such as the Notre Dame which has seen visits from almost every single pope and European historical figure since 1100 AD reigns supreme.

Alas, I finally boarded a train back to airport. The train was easily the warmest part of the trip and I managed to get some sleep as well. Somebody forget to tell the local government of Paris to turn the heat on in the city—hey, if Vegas can carve pools resembling tropical rainforests, Dubai can make islands that look like palm trees, and Qatar can convince FIFA to play the World Cup in 2022 in the "cold wintry" months of January in the Arabian Peninsula, than why can't Paris have heated streets?

(Sorry folks but again I must say photos will come, internet is simply too slow to post photos)

Happy New Year!-The First Blog of 2011

As I was discussing with my parents during my two weeks home, when I look back upon my departure in 2009, 2011 seemed so far away. When you think of two years into the unknown, you imagine all the times that you took a major step in life and realize how far you have come. Leaving for Peace Corps, taking the leap to do something you never thought you could do, now reminds me of my departure to high school, and then college. Both times were nerve wracking emotional journeys that after a time became a normal part of my life.

Peace Corps has become like that. Leaving back in July 2009 was one of the most challenging experience I have yet to face. I still remember standing in front of the hotel in Philadelphia, the gathering point for many Peace Corps programs, and entering into a room with 16 other people who would quickly become some of my closest friends. Then having all that slashed as the Guinea program was slashed, and doing it again when I entered Burkina Faso. Philadelphia is now just a memory; so is Guinea and the evacuation to Mali. I have now entered what is potentially my final months in my Peace Corps journey which I hope to very proudly say one day that I was a volunteer in Peace Corps Burkina Faso.

As I said in my last blog entry way back in 2010, I was headed home for the United States to spend Christmas and the New Year with family and friends. I had an excellent time home rediscovering what makes America so wonderful while at the same time reminding myself how great Burkina Faso is as well. I worried heavily about my reentry into Burkina, which was all to no avail, because this time departure to the “great unknown” was actually not at all unknown. The difference between this time and last time is that I know now what to expect, what my town has to offer me. Packing was so simple as it included only 18 packs of Top Ramen, 32 packs of instant oatmeal, 5 boxes of mac and cheese, toys, soccer balls, baseballs, and other things are so uniquely American. Everything else, yes that's right, everything else from clothes to furniture to books can all be found in Burkina. This is, after all, 2011 and internet is never as far away as your cell phone anywhere on the planet.

I am excited for this year. Not to be arrogant, but I judge my French to be bordering on fluency. Communication for me is no longer a problem, nor is living in Tenkodogo. It has all become a normal part of what is perhaps a very not normal life (Peace Corps Volunteers have all abandoned that life long ago). I hope to finish my service very strong with no regrets. My students seemed to be very excited to be back in my, but that could also be because I am the biggest pushover ever. My fellow teachers and friends were also very excited to see me, everyone was all smiles on my first day of class on Friday. It was almost a surreal reentry, feeling almost like I have come “home,” though this version of home comes with the reality that it is only temporary, that a final and permanent departure looms over my head.

So what's on the menu for Tenkodogo 2011? More of the same. School, girl's basketball, boys leadership camp round 2, computer work, and of course other various activities. My friend organized a soccer team in his village and has asked me to coach, though coaching is just another term for supplying the ball and playing (though I have no problem with that) with a bunch of kids from a small village about 3 miles from town. I have a grandiose project in the work with Peace Corps, but I don't want to talk too much about it as it may never happen. But of course the biggest project, the one that comprises much of what we do here, is simply living a life that many people do not have the chance to live-and enjoying every minute of it.

Oh did I mention that I grew out a mustache?

Happy 2011 from Tenkodogo! (Photos to come, internet not allowing me to transmit photos right now)

And I am already ready for the break.

But never fear, students in Burkina go on strike soon which gives me virtually the entire month of December free of responsibility. But before I say how I will be using this time (oh yes it is exciting) I would like to highlight a few interesting developments.

I have gained a new neighbor in Tenkodogo, a second Peace Corps volunteer has moved in. We in Peace Corps call them site-mates. To not go into too many details, we are developing a good friendship at the same time being sure to respect eachothers experience and distance. It is important that I do not spend my time with Americans as that is not my purpose here, and my sitemate feels the same way.

Girls basketball season has started. I have started a girls basketball club here every Sunday. It is simply an open club where girls can come and play without fear of being kicked off the court by boys. First meeting we had 7, last meeting 11, and I am positive that numbers will grow. I think the girls enjoy having the chance to play a sport generally reserved for boys. We may open it up to other sports as well, perhaps changing week by week.

Lastly, my good friend here has organized an English Club at his school, which is different than mine. The topics, chosen by the students, are very interesting and include female excision (a practice being phased out here in Burkina), the dangers of smoking, nutrition, and climate change. We meet once a week for 2 hours.

And now to the juicy part. I stated earlier that I have exciting news about how I will be spending the break. Well, here it is: on December 22nd I board a flight home to Washington DC to spend the holidays with my family before returning to Burkina to finish my service.

Voila!

Tabasky is the one remaining holiday that I was excited for. I have seen Ramadan, Noël, Easter, Birthdays, Weddings, and Funerals in West Africa. I have seen all the Burkina-centric holidays including Burkina Independence Day. I have even participated in several world days including International Women’s Day and Earth Day (which I brought to Tenkodogo).

But not Tabasky. Last year Tabasky fell on Thanksgiving during a time in which I was unfortunately a Peace Corps Volunteer with no village. I was able to see people in Ouagadougou celebrate, but having no real connection to Ouaga made Tabasky unimportant for me last year. So this was my chance, my one and only chance, to celebrate Tabasky with my friends in Tenkodogo.

And how did I celebrate it? By catching a minor flu and staying in bed until 4PM. Never have I been so disappointed. But I rush ahead of myself. What is Tabasky and why was I so disappointed to have spent the day sick in bed?

Tabasky is a Muslim holiday locally known as the day of sheep meat. It is essentially, in Burkina, the equivalent of Thanksgiving, a day spent with family and food, lots and lots of food. Though a Muslim holiday, Christians are invited and encouraged to eat with their Muslim friends and family. It is a day of happiness and sharing, and lots of sheep meat. If you read the Bradt Travel Guide about Burkina Faso, you will read that in Tenkodogo, the streets are flowing with sheep meat in reference to how much sheep is slaughtered and then roasted and eaten on Tabasky in Tenkodogo. I must admit, however, that I don’t quite understand why Tenkodogo is selected as the place to be when I am fairly certain that Tabasky is big all across Burkina Faso.

Though I am rough on my history, Tabasky, or L’Aid El Kébir, comes from the day God gave Abraham the choice to sacrifice his child to prove his love in the Old Testament. When Abraham agreed, God told Abraham that he could instead sacrifice a sheep. If I am wrong, please forgive me, but I am only going off of what I understand.

In Burkina, Muslim men buy new Boubous (traditional robes often made from Malian Bezin) and Muslim women by new dresses made from the same fabric; families theme their clothes so that they are made with the same patterns and designs-seeing all the little children wearing the same clothing is adorable! The practice is common here for all holidays with Tabasky and Ramadan being the days when Bezin is the fabric of choice. After 10AM prayer, families return to start the cooking: sheep is number one, but chickens, goats, cows, and turkeys, are not spared. Plates are accompanied by couscous and various sauces, and drinks including hibiscus juice (Bissap) and baobab juice (Tédo) are consumed. Around 2PM families, including Christians, hit the town being sure to greet all their family and friends, and eating at every stop on the way. Kids will often ask for candy or small amounts of money-it’s Burkina style Halloween. I personally prefer to give candy away since I don’t like giving coins.

So as you can see, I was frustrated. I missed seeing the morning prayer, I missed the fresh grilled sheep meat, and I missed the door to door greetings! 4PM was enough; I was not going to miss this whole day. So I rolled out of bed with my 100 degree fever, put on my Boubou, and hit the town. It may have been too late to get my eat on, but I can at least greet and wish good tiding to all my Muslim friends and their families right?

Silly me, the party doesn’t stop, and there is definitely no shortage of food. First stop was to my friend Aboubacar’s house, probably the person to convince me to leave my bed in the first place. He insisted that if I found the energy I needed to stop at his house. He saved some chicken and tô, though I confess I was not very hungry due to being sick, for me to eat. We took fantastic photos of him with his bright blue boubou, his daughter, wife, and me with my blue and brown.

Aboubacar, his daughter, and me

Second stop was to my tailor’s house. He was unfortunately not home, but his kids were, so I gave them each a piece of candy and headed off. I tried calling him but our French-Mooré conversations never go to far. After that I rolled on over to my proviseur’s (principal) house where I was served some sheep meat and a lovely coke. (Coincidentally, as I later found out, due to Tabasky all cokes and fantas in Tenkodogo are out, we await our next shipments). Last stop was to my friend Tarnagda’s house, a fellow teacher of mine who has helped me out a lot since coming to Tenko. He was finished for the day, but I made him put on his brown boubou for a photo shoot. I was served a plate of couscous and beef, and then was on my way. Me standing with my proviseur

With the Tarnagda family

It was 9PM, and my body could not take it anymore. So I went back to the house, and slept. It ended up being a wonderful evening and I am very happy that I went out. So while I am disappointed that I missed all the morning fun, I am happy that I went out later. In truth I wanted none of the food that I was served due again to being sick, which is unfortunate because it was the best food I have been served since arriving in Burkina, but none of my friends would take no for an answer; they absolutely insisted that I at least try to eat. And eat I did.

Bonne fête à toute la monde! Happy Tabasky everyone!

It’s October 31st in Tenkodogo town, The season of Sahel in Burkina awaiting to drown.

The night is young, ghouls ready to thrill, To award that prize of bon-bon, or candy, to those that will. Yes it’s Halloween in the Kéré-Butler family zone, Not heat nor wind can keep the children à la maison.

Armed with candy, art supplies, and a will of his own, Dylan invites the neighborhood to celebrate Halloween at his home. The kids, and their parents, all come in bunches, Knowing not of this day, but macaroni for their lunches.

With interesting masks made out of marker and cardboard, The children use all the supplies right down to the snap-cord.

Even the adults got in on the action, We all joined in, what a wonderful faction. After music and candy and macaroni to please, It was all so fun, and without the typical Halloween skeeze.

Of course night time came and the partygoers were tired, The party had to stop, it left nothing to be admired.

So on this day of fun and games, Dylan was happy, Halloween came and it wasn’t lame.

Next time you wish to celebrate a day full of sweets, Halloween is the day that we say trick or treat!

-Or as the children mistakenly say here, “S**t or sheet!”-

Happy Halloween 2010 from Tenkodogo everyone!

Sliding down the Garango Mountain

The skies are blue, the birds are chirping, the goats and sheep are grazing in the school grounds, and the children are all back-school has begun. Well sort of. My first day was a fabulous example...because it never actually happened. School started on a Friday this year, which seems odd but not suprising anymore. I walked into my first class to see...no students !!! Suprise ! First day of school was actually just a kids see their schedule day, because apparently during class organization day nobody told them their class schedule. So students came, and left, which gave me another day of summer. But the first day of school did come, and alas it went off without a hitch. Unlike last year when I was absolutely terrified to start class, this time around I felt normal. Did my introductions, told my students how to prepare for my class, and that was it. Same went for class number two-zero problems. So here I am in week 2 of school and things are going smoothly. Let's hope it will stay that way. After all, kids are thrilled to take my class, because well of the 6 subjects required in 6eme, my math class, along with French and Gym, are the only subjects that these kids have. My friend, the vice-principal M. Kere is trying fast to fill the empty slots, but we just don't have enough teachers here. I was already asked to teach a 3rd class, and we have had to contract out 2 math teachers to help fill the void, along with a whole handfull of physics-chemistry (it's a duel subject here) and biology teachers. English, French, and German (yes German) are covered at least, Burkinabés have an exceptional ability at langauge so there are more than enough langauge teachers here. No problems in gym class either! But then again, not a whole lot suprises me here anymore. I have not been home in awhile. With exciting news about school comes sad news, I lost Bob Monday night. My poor dog fell terribly sick and did not survive the night. Nobody knows what happened hto him, people have far more to worry about than their poor dogs falling sick (children contracting malaria for example) so vets do not have the same knowledge base as Amerucan vets. I am very sad, but in many ways relieved. He went very quietly and now I no longer have to worry about the eventual seperation that overlooked my future. His passing means that there is no pressure upon the next volunteer to adopt Bob and I at least get to know the fate of Bob instead of wondering from 3,000 miles away how my poor dog would survive after I left. I'll miss you pup, thanks for the good times.

Back in May I believe I told all of you that I had a VERY long summer vacation. Well 4 months ago I was exactly correct and 3 trips to Ghana, visits from my best friend Chris and my parents, and a 272km bike ride later, I find myself back in Tenkodogo gearing up for Year 2.

And boy what a schedule has my school laid out for me. This year I have 2 6eme (equivalent to 7th grade) math classes for a grand total of 10 hours a week. No sweat right? WRONG! It just so happens that with serious school shortages in all outlier villages of Tenkodogo we now have to take in far more students than we can possibly hold. I have 260 students, in 2 classes of math. Imagine back in your 7th grade algebra or pre-algebra classes and now imagine sitting in that same class room with 129 other students. And most class rooms at Alice Deal Junior High, my middle school, were larger than my lovely classrooms here at Lycée Rialé de Tenkodogo. Kids here will literally be 4 heads to a desk.

But honestly, last year I had 105 students; is there really any difference between 105 and 130? It just means more grading, and less time for computers.

It has become clear to me that while computer education is a neccessity here in Burkina Faso, it has not yet taken hold. And when you combine that with a shortage of math teachers and overage of students, my computer work takes a backseat. I will still be in charge of the room, but this year will be a lot different. I hope to have students acting in my place as lab assistants giving me time to perhaps orgainze two or three serious computer classes. Last year, by offering free classes to all, ended up completely failing for two reasons: one) students were far to numerous and two) students did not care at all for the classes since they were not graded nor did they pay for them. I hate to say it, but students who pay for classes will come since there is an actual investment on their part.

So there you have it. 10 hours of math class a week and a still evolving computer camp-MORE TO COME!

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In other fun news, Kirstin and I just finished a weeklong computer camp with students in her village of Komtoega. Her village is far different than mine-for starters it is less than 5000 people and has no running water or electricity. Very few people have been educated past elementary school and French is almost nonexistent. Except for a few government health workers and teachers, she must survive speaking Bissa, the langauge of Komtoega.

Students, however, have a basic understanding of French and it was for them that we decided to do a computer camp. The lab is equipped with solar panels and fully networked-it's AMAZING! An American company called Inveneo installed 22 top notch computers and they run beautifully-unlike the awful computers from the Stone Age that run in my computer lab.

We split it up in two groups, one for boys and one for girls. Girls were mostly younger and participants in Kirstin's girls club, and the boys were older most being in high school. It was blast. We taught them a crash introductory course in Microsoft Word and Excel as well as basic functions of the computers. Some members of the community even participated for a day or two including the local stonemason, Koran teacher, and pharmacy worker.

But the highlight of all was lasanga. Yes, you heard it, Kirstin made lasanga. And it was awesome. But the story of the lasanga is even better. Kirstin's gas ran out on us at the beginning of the camp, so we had to use a charcoal grill and dutch oven. Who says you need modern appliances to make great cuisine?

So I leave you all and hope that your return to school and work has been going well; you will be sure to be informed about my crazy year #2 coming up!

Last but not least, the soccer team of secondary education has it's next soccer game on Sunday against the police and gendarmerie team-and it will also be my debut! That's right, my first official soccer game in one year and a half will played this Sunday, and I am thrilled.

Oh and HAPPY BIRTHDAY CHRIS!

272km by bike and 252km by car and I have found myself back in Ouaga. That's right, the bike tour is now over for me. While I wished to continue, it is time to return back to Tenkodogo to begin working again...or at least return for another week before I have to leave again.

Day 1 (Day 3 of the official tour)

The bike tour arrived at my site the day before after an extremely difficult day of 90km through a mix of dirt and cement road. The Volunteers-9 total-arrived extremely exhausted and hungry, eating a chicken apiece within 5 minutes of entering Tenkodogo. I thought to myself, man, I am going to be hungry tomorrow. I better get ready for some chicken.

The Tenkodogo-Koupela route is nothing difficult, I have done it multiple times before this event. 45km on a cement road-no challenge whatsoever. I biked it in exactly two hours taking only a 15 minute water break en route.

On arriving in Koupela we of course ate a ton of food with PCV hosts Sara Gensmer and Phil Rodenbaugh before crashing early-a 81km day awaited us.

Day 2 (Day 4 of the official tour)

This was the longest day of biking that I have ever done in my life. 81km on a good cement road with suprisingly little traffic from Koupela to Fada N'Gourma. We completed the route in about 4 hours biking in teams. Mimicking the Tour de France, we drafted each others bike making the time fly by. In those four hours we took multiple breaks and one long 30 minute breakfast stop.

A what-could-have-been major accident was the highlight of this day. Riding pull line style 5km outside of Fada when suddenly our back rider was unable to dodge a pothole going 27km/hr. She, and her bike, flew 10 meters from the hole smashing her elbow, knee, and hip into the pavement. After the initial shock, PCV Rachel Whestone got up, bloody elbows and knees, and said, "Let's finish this." Like the rest of us, she was determined to finish the ride. It will take a lot more than a few bloody scrapes to deter this bike tour from finishing each day.

After arrival, we decided to make a reenactment of the fall and post it online. After a crowd of onlookers, some fake blood tomato paste, and the police come believing that we actually had a real accident only to laugh and see that we were doing a simulation, we posted an excellent reenactment online using PCV Rob Hartiwig as Rachel's stunt double. The video of the events can be seen on the Bike Tour Blog, which will again be posted at the end of this entry.

We went to bed early staying at newly sworn in PCV Joey's (don't know his last name) house. This was also the final day that me and Kirstin were able to ride together. She started in Po, the official start of the tour, and finished up in Fada.

Day 3 - Ramadan (Day 5 of the tour...you get the picture)

This, before I started the tour, was the day I feared most. 78km on dirt the whole way. It ended up being the easiest and most fun day of my small leg of the tour. The route was Fada N'Gourma-Bilanga.

We made crazy time, gettig into Bilanga around 10AM, but that was only the beginning. Bilanga is surrounded by two large lakes, and in rainy season they surround the town leaving Bilanga somewhat cutoff as an island. PCV Kim Hover informed the town of our arrival, and the mayor of Bilanga took it upon himself to throw us an official welcome party. But the party sat upon the shores of the other bank, and we had this to cross this...

Photo taken by PCV Neal Lepsetz

In Burkina Faso, bridges are built under the water, instead of over, due to the cost. So water flows over at a trickling rate normally through the controlled what I call "down bridges," except during the few months of rainy season where lakes overflow and water rushes at a torrential rate. So how do we cross to meet the welcome crew (wearing white) on the other side? We walk and drive.

Photo taken by PCV Neal Lepsetz

In perhaps the greatest entry that I have ever made, I carried my bike over my shoulder walking the 200 meter distance. While the village wanted to help me carry my bike, I refused. No way was I going to not carry my bike after finishing the 78km to Bilanga. Do these people know who I am? And thanks to Neal, I now have this epic photo to remind me of that amazing entry for the rest of my life.

Photo taken by PCV Robert Hartwig

Thus we arrived, and the welcome party, along with officials and the police, escorted us to Kim's house. The mayor then threw us a lunch with more chicken and Riz-Gras than I could ever eat. Not only was he super excited to play host to our crew, our arrival coincided with Ramadan, so the entire village was invited to eat, dance, and celebrate this grand occasion.

Day 4 (Day 6)

This was a car day. Because this event was an official Peace Corps event not only promoting the program and gender and development, we were also celebrating the 50th anniversary of Peace Corps. Because of this, we had a timeline, and Peace Corps sent a car to follow behind throughout the route carrying our baggage, extra water, and medical supplies. Day 4 was planned as a car day because of the intensive milaege, 152 km from Bilanga to Tougari.

The car was delayed and arrived at 4 PM, meaning that this voyage was going to go into night. Before the car arrived, we had time to play around in Bilanga a bit. We were able to meet the village chief that morning, and due to a crazy coincidence, we were all wearing shirts matching the colors of the rainbow. So we took a couple of photos, and I think we look great.

Top Row from left: New PCV Jen (don't know her last name), Josh Gwinn, Neal Lepsetz, the Mayor of Bilanga M. Djingri Charles Lakoande, Rachel Whetstone, Julie Lishansky, an official from Bilanga that I can't remember the name of, and Kim Hover

Bottom Row from left: Robert Hartwig, Emma Prasher, Dylan Butler, Marita Whalen, Kim Hover's host brother, and a 2nd host brother

Photo taken by PCV Robert Hartwig

We were also able to experiment with a very interesting plate of food. After some convincing, four of us together (Rob, Rachel, PCV Josh Gwinn, and I) decided to taste sheep testacles. And you know what? It wasn't as bad as we thought it would be. If we didn't know ahead of time I would have thought I was eating spam.

Photo taken by PCV Neal Lepsetz

So our second car finally came and we left Bilanga at 4:30PM. And as these things go, naturally our car broke down. So naturally, we pulled out a laptop and watched Ironman 2 under the stars. What, your job doesn't let you watch Ironman 2 under the starts in Burkina Faso? Villagers came out of nowhere and sat down watching our movie too-listening to their commentary was rather hilarious. I can only imagine what went across their minds when they randomly stumbled across a crew of Americans watching a movie in the middle of nowhere.

Photo taken by PCV Emma Prasher

After about 6 hours of being broken down and travelling in the car, we arived in Tougari, the site of PCV Emily Prasher at about midnight.

Day 5- My Final Day (Day 7)

We awoke at 6 AM this day due purely to our exhaustion from the night before (normal bike time wake up is 4:45 AM). Because of this, we didn't leave til 7:30 AM, a big mistake for what happened to be the hottest day of the tour. The route was Tougari to Kaya, a total distance of 68km. And it got hot, really really hot.

Around noon, the absolute hottest part of the day with temperatures reaching well over 100 degrees, we passed the first major tree in this part of the country (northern Burkina is lacking in trees). Very convienently, under this tree housed a watermelon market with hundreds of fresh watermelons. As you can imagine, it was the most perfect stop you can possibly have. We ate two huge water melons (each costing 300 CFA, or 60 cents) and continued with newfound energy the last 10km of my section of the tour.

To highlight my arrival into Kaya, this lovely house was painted with this image.

Photo taken by PCV Robert Hartwig

Welcome to "Wachingtone" and the end of my journey. It was a bittersweet departure, and I almost chose to keep going. Make it known that I did not want to stop, I was feeling great and having tons of fun. I wish best of luck to the 7 permanent riders, PCVs Rob Hartwig, Emma Prasher, Rachel Whetstone, Joshua Gwinn, Neal Lepsetz, Marita Whalen, and Julie Lishansky and to all the other riders who have and will be participating in Burkina Faso Bike Tour. I also want to thank the three organizers, Julie, Rachel, and Marita for organizing such a great event and allowing me to participate.

I hopped in the car going the 100 km back to Ouaga, along with Kim Hover who rode this leg of the trip. So there you have it, 272 km by bike and 252 km by car. What a great trip!

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So why didn't I continue? Believe me it tore me apart, but stupid reasoning or not, I believe it was the right decision. I have not been at site a whole lot this summer due to massive amounts of travelling, so with the big meeting for the administration of my school on the 15th (which apparently nobody goes too) I feel as if I have to be back there. And since Kirstin and I will be doing a computer camp at her site Komthoega at the end of the month I need to at least make an appearance in Tenkodogo.

But the biggest reason for saying adieu to my comrades on the tour is that I must say adieu to another comrade, my buddy Phil Rodenbaugh. He has accepted to transfer back to Guinea to do his final year back in the country I trained in. While I have since gained 3 new people from my training group back in Guinea in Burkina (3 of my training mates repeated training and just swore-in in Burkina Faso), Phil is my final link to those days in Guinea. We have been through all of this together. From Philidelphia, to Guinea, to Burkina, the two of us have taken quite a ride together. But he is following his heart and has worked hard to go back to Guinea. My heart is here in Burkina Faso now so we must go our separate ways, but I wanted to come back to wish him good luck in what will be a very challenging, yet I am sure rewarding experience for him.

Last but not least, please click on the link again for the Burkina Fasa Bike Tour and check out the reenactment of the bike accident video we created, I think it is hilarious. For reference, it's day 4 of the tour and the title of the blog entry is Day 4: Hit the Ground...Riding. Don't forget to donate! Even 10 bucks (the equivalent of 5000 CFA) helps us out tremendously here in Burkina Faso. That much money can buy 5 custom made tshirts for volunteers forming girls soccer teams, or enough material for a women's group to make several gallons of soap to sell at the market or to promote handwashing. The possibilities are endless!

It's nice to not have a whole lot to report. Mom and dad are in the USA and I have begun gearing up for Year 2-Burkina style. Fresh off the plate of recent activities including another tree planting extravaganza and a lovely trip to Ghana and Togo (again).

Dori, for those not so well versed in Burkina geography, is just about as far as you can go in the north before you hit nomansland. The town is all that stands between the Sahara and civilization. There is no plantable soil, only sand, and even in the most intense parts of rainy season few trees manage to grow.

The north is the land of the Peulhs-migrant people who choose the harshest conditions in Africa to live. And live they do, they are true masters of their environment. From the mountains of Guinea, to the deserts of Burkina, and beyond, you can find a Peulh and their herds of animals in almost every country in West Africa.

Planting Trees!

Apparently every year Burkina hosts a grand ceremony for all volunteer organizations in the country, which of course includes Peace Corps. 1000 Volunteers from all over the world descended upon Dori to help plant a type of tree, well adapted to harsh desert conditions, to slow down the effect of desertification. The objective was 65000 trees in 15 minutes. I can't say we did it in 15, but we filled up the entire planting ground for sure!

Last week, I was in Togo and Ghana with Kirstin. It was a wonderful trip taking us to three different places along the coast. The first stop was Accra, the capital of Ghana. Accra is an ok city, it has all the amenities of any other city including fast food restaraunts and sushi. It can be a very expensive city to live in, and probably ranks as one of the wealthiest cities in Africa. It still has immense poverty issues like everywhere, but it is far more developed than any other other city that I have seen.

Kirstin in front of a lighthouse in Keta

After that we went to Keta, a natural landbridge formed between a massive lagoon, the end of the White Volta, and the ocean. A spectacular beach for sure untouched by Western tourism. Many wealthy Ghanains have established beach homes there (extravagant to say the least), but very little in the way of hotels and other amenities. Every day all the fisherman load up their boats (literally hundreds) and the women and children walk the beach to receive the catches. Kirstin has the photos on her camera so I'll be sure to post them when I receive them.

We ended up finally in Lomé at the same place where I took my last vacation. We met some Togo PCVs this time around and spent two night just kicking it with a different group. Peace Corps is a very large family and in French West Africa it's a good bet that if you run into a group of Americans, they are Peace Corps Volunteers.

Food in Ghana is amazing--fresh fish with a plate of fried rice for 5 bucks!

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Next on the menu we have the lovely Burkina Faso Peace Corps Bike Tour! My route starts in Tenkodogo and ending in Kaya, a total ride of about 300km in 5 days. We are riding to raise money for Gender and Development Programs put on here by fellow Peace Corps Volunteers. Please, if you were interested in donating before let us know. The PayPal system was malfunctioning before, but everything is working now. Check out the link again for more info. Who knows, your money could go towards helping my proposed girl's basketball team get uniforms. No it's not a sure thing yet, but I do have girls asking me to coach a team-here's hoping!

Follow the link below:

Peace Corps Burkina Faso Bike Tour 2010

And last but not least, October 1st is the first day of school here in Burkina. So my extremely long summer is coming to an end and School Year #2 begins.

I have been thinking about what to title this blog for hours. So many titles seemed to fit what has happened to me and my family in the last week, but most were sad and depressing, not hopeful and inspiring. But after seeing my mother tear up in front of her doctor 5 minutes before being medically evacuated to Paris, I saw the power of people firsthand, and why we should never stop believing in the human soul. No photos of beautiful scenery or elephants this week. No stories about travels in exotic places this week. Just an experience, and one that I do not wish upon anyone.

On the last night of my parent's voyage, my mother came down with a violent stomach ache. 12 hours later, mom was in a private medical clinic in Ouagadougou, unable to catch her flight to Paris. She was diagnosed with two tropical deadly diseases at the same time, malaria and typhoid. But those actually, as we found out later, were not the cause of this stomach ache, nor did they actually ever happen. Two days after we took her to the clinic, the doctors brought in a surgeon (one of the best in the world I might add), who told us some of the most intense news I have ever received: a piece of her intestine had died and became infected with gangrene.

We were told that she had no choice but to have an operation done to remove that piece of her intestine. I have never been so scared. And I could understand what was being said. I can't imagine what was going on in the head of my dad as I translated this information to my him, or my mom, the true hero in all of this. It's not everyday one is told that they must have an operation to save one's life--especially in Burkina Faso.

It was the most intense moment of my entire life, and I had to do all the translating. 15 minutes before surgery I had to translate a conversation between an American surgeon in the USA and the surgeon here in Burkina. That kind of pressure is not something that I signed up for when joining the Peace Corps.

And then, as if doing emergency surgery in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso wasn't hard enough on us, the power cut out in the middle of surgery. I swear at that very moment I thought I would lose not only my mom that night, but my dad to a heart attack. At least that was one thing I could handle. If there is one thing a surgeon here understands, it's to have a backup plan for the inevitable rainy season power outage in Ouagadougou.

As it turned out, the surgery was a complete success and mom is safely back recuperating in the USA. My parents were both Medivaced (thank medical insurance) 5 days after the operation to the American Hospital of Paris before getting back Saturday night. Turns out that this particular surgeon is one of the best on the planet operating in some of the most extreme conditions in the world. The best doctors on Earth are on this continent, and never has that rang more true than after all of this. If he had not done what he did that night, my mom may not have made it through the night. I still shudder as to that thought. This doctor deserves praise, he saved my mom's life. Nothing I can do can repay someone for that.

I can tell you know though, two weeks after the fact, that it was almost surreal. You hear of horror stories in medicine, but none have ever affected me personally. Yet my family has grown closer than ever through all of this. I was worried that my parents would leave hating Burkina Faso, but the result is the opposite. What happened to my mom could have happened anywhere at any moment. The quick response from friends, family, and doctors--Burkinabé and American--showed me the power of people in its truest form. When somebody's life is on the line, people will drop everything to see to it that that one person is ok. I saw a different side of Burkina, one that makes me love this place even more. From all walks of like, people will do whatever is in their power to help.

-I want to thank my sister Hannah for her courage. She held strong despite being half a world removed.

-The two doctors, Dr. Baro for originally taking mom in, and of course Dr. Sanou for doing the obvious, saving mom's life.

-Dan, Jeff, Aicha, and the rest of the Peace Corps staff for helping. You guys are amazing and there is nobody else I would rather have in an emergency situation helping me than you.

-Aunt Judy and Uncle Mark for doing countless hours of research stateside and informing everyone of the situation, you guys were tremendous.

-Kirstin, I can't thank you enough. No words I can type on this page will do justice for how much you helped my family during that week.

-Dad, I don't know how you put up with all of that. No French, yet trying everything to understand the situation. Without your relentess 24/7 watch of the situation and partnering me, who knows what may have passed.

-Mom, you I thank most of all. I cannot imagine how you coped with it all internally, but you stayed strong and defiant. You never shed one tear through all of it until the goodbye to Dr. Sanou. I hope you passed me down some of that strength.

I love you mom.

Hey guys check this out. Us Volunteers in Burkina are riding in a giant bike tour around Burkina Faso--I'm riding about 300km, just a piece of the whole thing. The cause: We are riding to raise money for gender equality projects here in Burkina Faso.

Check out the link! Peace Corps Burkina Faso Bike Tour

Hey folks,I know it's been awhile since I've written anything. Having visitors has taken me away from blog time, but neverfear, Dylan is back again with some interesting photos (not so much stories) from his latest adventures with my family and friend Chris. I'll be sure to get a real story next week when I have time. For now, enjoy the photos!

Elephants in Ghana

Termite Mound and Dad

Warthogs

We used this boat to go hippo watching in Ghana. Probably a good thing that we didn't find any

Mom, Dad, and I at the Pics of Sindou

Another Pic

That's right, it's my one year anniversary today! Pretty cool huh?

There is nothing like a beautiful day. Sun is up, birds are chirping, and here in Burkina chickens, goats, and pigs are running around hunting for food. Children chase you on your bicycle and the rest of the world just smiles and asks "Ca va?"

So when I recieved a message on my cell phone that we were going on the first level of alert (standfast), you could imagine that my beautiful day was all but finished. What followed was 8 hours of phone calls, well into the night, trying to grasp exactly what had happened in this country. My initial reaction was, 'No, not again' for those who remember my time spent in limbo from a prior evacuation, but being a warden I kept as cool as possible attempting to contact 8 other Volunteers and Peace Corps about the situation at hand.

Turns out that we are having kidnapping threats here in Burkina from Al Queda. It's nothing new here in this part of Africa, except this particular time they were targeting the training village, Ouaiyagouya (can't spell it), where some 70 new trainees have just commenced their training. To not go into too many details, all trainees and Volunteer trainers have been safely evacuated to Ouagadougou and the rest of us not in the area are safe as well. That includes me by the way, as my town is far away from those affected by these threats.

Remember that cool picture of Dogon Country from my last post? Well unfortunately, we have to cancel. No way am I going up there, nor sending my parents and Chris up there, while these kidnapping threats still exist. Unfortunate for vacation plans, yes, worst thing to ever happen to me personally, no. I feel much worse for all those people who had to be removed from their villages in which they have spent a year or more integrating and making friends, or for all the new trainees who come after all that waiting, only to have to deal with this. I know what they are going through, and it is no fun at all.

What this means for me? Well we are not exactly sure. Chris, my parents (who arrive the 11th), and I are discussing an alternative back up plan to the now cancelled Dogon trip. Sorry dad, that $120 visa to Mali I told you not to get may end up going void. Options on the table: Ruins of Lorepini in Gaoua and Nazinga Elephant Park in Pô, Bamako in Mali (you may have a shot yet dad), Giraffes in Niger, or an extremely fast trip through Ghana. I am trying the best I can to work within this new situation, but it sucks having to cancel a trip to a place some Volunteers have said as the only must-see attraction in this part of Africa (Even Ghana has not earned that title).

Well we will see, and I am confident that no matter what we do we will have fun. Chris and I, along with 3 other PCV friends potentially, are heading to Bobo in the Southwest next week to hike the domes, play in water falls, and see the Sindou Peaks hopefully for the first time. Of course this is assuming that the standfast order is lifted by weekend's end...

Onto to other sorts of business. Below you will see some photos of the fun activities that I have been participating in/running. You can click on my Picasa link to see more, or simply watch the ever-growing slideshow. Photos come from the boys club, Les Hommes de Force, as promised and the tree planting in Ouaga to benefit a neighborhood destroyed by flooding last September. While we had the honor of helping with the event, the real credit goes to Catholic Relief Services and the Peace Corps Response Volunteer serving with them.

PCV Kirstin discussing HIV/AIDS and proper condom usage with my boys group.

Communication drill. One player is blindfolded while four others tell him exactly where to kick the soccer ball. Idea is to promote communication on the soccer pitch. Communication was an important lesson with this group, on and off the field.

Passing drills

PCV Audrey and I, one awesome tree planting force.

Audrey making sure that tree is good and buried in the ground.

The participating PCVs, all gathered under a tent for a ceremony with the Mayor of Ouagadougou.

So we will do things in reverse order than what I actually typed in a the title. Why? Because in order to learn about the Americans, you have to read about boys camp (Les Hommes de Force) first.

I started my boys camp last week and so far I personally feel that it has been a big success. We started the first session with a lesson on what the roles of men are, continuing the next day with the roles of woemn. My goal was not to press my cultural views onto them (though I may have done it once or twice) but rather get them to think about what is the difference between sex and gender. I defined sex for them as the difference between men and women naturally, and gender as what society and culture makes them to be. For example, I asked when I asked them about roles, it was generally agreed upon that men make the money and women take care of the house. When I later asked them if the roles could be switched, they all agreed yes, of course, why not. It got them thinking about why things are as they are, which is what I wanted.

The third day my PCV neighbor Kirstin did a condom demonstration and a discussion about HIV/AIDS. The 4th day we discussed diets and nutrition and how to eat well with what we have here in Burkina Faso. After the hour talks we play a few games and then I lead them outside to play soccer for an hour and a half (which they love). So I feel mission accomplished, I used soccer as a way to draw 9-10 boys into discussions about health and society. Photos to come next time!

Next week we are changing the mode to education. The first day we will be discussing how and what to study, second day will be computers and why they are important, third day is undecided, and the fourth day we will do a review of everything that we learned. For the second half we will be doing basketball assuming I can find a ball.

And that is when the Americans come!!! Chris, my neighbor and great friend from DC, will be flying in Thursday night for a month long visit, later shared with my parents for three and a half weeks. We will be touring all of Burkina, as well as making a trip to Dogon Country in Mali. I am very excited!!!

Dogon Country in Mali, Going Soon!!

The biggest question plaguing Ghana right now is not who can match Ghana in the World Cup, but rather who will they play in the Finals. While they are completely delusional in the idea that Ghana stands a chance against a powerhouse like Germany, the country's energy right now is palpable.

And I thought people were excited in Burkina.

Ghana is an Africa powerhouse but still behind other formidable foes like Nigeria and Cameroon. The kids play ball all day in whatever limited open space they can find. The power of football here in Africa is just amazing and being a part of the enthusiam is even better. During our trip we were sure to remind everyone that Australia is not a pushover in world football. Of course the Ghanains were proud to immediatly counter with "Do you remember 2006 when Ghana beat the USA 2-0?" Errrr.........

Well it's fun, and the time to be in Africa is now. It does not matter where you are, the World Cup in South Africa is every African's World Cup, and nowhere else in the world can match the energy that this event has brought to this continent. I am of course thrilled for the games to start in 6 days and besides the USA, I'm cheering for an African team to win the cup. With the exception of Algeria, because we, USA, need to beat them to go to the next round.

But enough about the greatest event known to man, it's time to talk about a Ghana vacation. And well, why not start with a little photo highlighting the super challenging trip.

My oh my, how life can be difficult sometimes. Beer, hammock, beach, ocean, but damn, no food in this particular photo. What gives?

Our trip started with the bus ride from hell (as much as I love being here, I cannot stand the transport). It took us 24 hours to get to Takoradi, the third largest city in Ghana, including an overnight stay at the Kumasi bus station. Sleeping on benches, wow what a blast!

But finally, we arrived, and it was straight to Busua, a small beach resort town in Western Ghana. OHHHHHHH MY was my first reaction. This beach was incredible complete with even the stereotypical island resting adrift in the ocean. Best bodysurfing I've ever had the pleasure to experience, plus incredible food, excellent live music, and plenty of nature and castles to explore. One day we walked 3k to the neighboring fishing village, where the ruins of an old German castle still oversee the ocean cove.

Freshly cooked Lobster

Ruins of a German Castle, it's my Indiana Jones shot.

After 3 nights in Busua, we were off to the Green Turtle Lodge, a staple travel destination for all West African PCVs. While I personally was not as crazy about the place as others, it certainly was well worth the visit. It is absolutely gorgeous, a small hotel 12k from any major town and 2k from a tiny fishing village. Palm trees line the beach as far as the eye can see and a Mangrove forest protects the inland jungle from the encroaching salt water.

Stunning place. My only problem was lack of food selection (you were stuck with what they had, not expensive but not cheap either). And Green Turtle was where the fun began--Dylan ran out of cash!

Now some backstory to this is important. Before I left for Guinea I closed my ATM card to all except three cities in the world, Conakry, Dakar, and Johannesburg. Now with me out of Guinea and the World Cup 3000 dollars away, my ATM Card is essentially useless. So I could not even contact the bank to open the card because, HAHA, I have no money on my Skype account. (I'm still hoping for a trip to Senegal, fingers crossed)

So that's the backstory. While I would never admit it at the time to my travelling mates, I was seriously worried about returning to Burkina and how I would eat for 5 days.

But of course that's why we have friends right? My companions, Josh and Rob, were perfectly comfortable in loaning me money for the rest of the trip. So yay, Ghana was no disaster after all.

When all was said and done we left the beach for Ghana's second largest city, Kumasi. Kumasi is notably famous for having the largest open air market in Africa (largest in the world coincedentally is in Bangkok, Thailand, and yes I have been there too). You can find whatever you want in the Kumasi market, and we had quite a day getting lost and immersed in the Kumasi beast.

Kumasi market, with a mega church in the background

The other thing in Kumasi: food. We had the pleasure of eating pizza comparable to pizza in the USA. Of course nothing will beat US delivery, but after not eating good pizza for 11 months, I was very happy.

So that's that. 12 day vacation in the books and now three weeks until my buddy Chris will be joining me in Burkina Faso.

The Three Amigos, Joshua Gwinn, Dylan Butler, and Robert Fournier (left to right)

So I am finished. Yeah that's right, school is done, grades are finished, computer lab is closed for the time being, and I am peacing out. Not that it's a bad thing, I've been working really hard lately and I'm ready for a break. Not having much to do for awhile could be nice, until after a couple months when I go insane with having nothing to do...again.

To celebrate the end of the year, I am going to Ghana next week with two friends to do some hiking and relaxing beach side. I'll be gone from the 19th to the 31st, so don't expect to hear much from me in the coming weeks until June. And to lay out future plans, World Cup starts in a month, Chris comes here the 24th of June, parents come the 12th, and then after all is said and done I have nothing to do until October, WHEEEEEEEEE. I love vacation.

So as most people know (thanks Facebook), last Wednesday was my birthday. I spent my birthday drinking wine and hanging with my best Burkina friend, but the real celebration was Saturday when 2 Peace Corps buddies came to town and we celebrated my birthday and the arrival of a new Japanese Volunteer in Tenkodogo! We drank margaritas (my first since my 23rd birthday), ate tacos, and sushi. I even dipped sushi in cheese--because it was there and I could! Sushi and cheese is blashphemous I know but screw you, I got to take advantage of things when I get them.

So that's that, I'm 24 now. Not a whole lot has changed.

Kids playing kick the plastic bag ball game.

Earth Day activity, me and my class picked up garbage in an attempt to clean the park. I then offered a lesson on proper waste disposal here. Don't think it stuck.

Group of boys after they filled a garbage bag.

You will see this photo everywhere, probably because it's my favorite.

Togolese fisherman

Living the life of luxury in Togo, but I was not allowed to be on the boat.

The highest point on the Domes of Fabedougou.

The Domes

The (only) waterfall in Burkina Faso-

-And me in it!

This is just a preview of recent photos. You can check the slideshow right, or simply click on it to continue to my Picasa account.

This is a story of exactly what not to do in the Peace Corps.

I have come to trust everyone in my neighborhood. For better or for worse, being the only white person gives you a lot of advantages, including a safety net that until the other day I thought untouchable. I consistenly leave my things out in my yard, whether it be speakers, matresses, chairs, or a bike because I trust that the only people entering my compound would never steal anything I own, especially a bike that is so genuinely American that you cannot find it anywhere in Tenkodogo.

So when I tried to go meet my friends one night (using my bike as transportation of course) I saw that my bike was nowhere to be found. What the hell am I supposed to do in this situation?

I was exposed for the first time and my sense of security rocked.

I called my nieghbor and he immediatly came to help me. This affects him almost as much as it affects me simpy due to the fact that we share a compound. My things are his things, and vice versa. So if their stuff is stolen, my stuff is stolen. So what do we do? We call the principal, because he has no idea either. He knows that this bike is my lifeline here and more importantly Peace Corps property, so I'm screwed without it.

So after deciding that we would go to the police the following day, they told me to relax. "Nobody in Tenkodogo owns a bike like this," he says. "It will be easy to find." The second sentence was said in a hope for the best but expect the worst tone.

Of course this is where things became an embarrasement. My neighbor's wife comes over to me laughing hysterically. I, like the forgetful person I can be, left it at the restaurant across the street where they had been gaurding it expecting me to come back at any moment to pick it up.

This stupid little incident has now been the laugh of the week. My neighbor's wife is blackmailing me into playing soccer with the little boy or else she will tell people I cried about the bike (not true by the way!) and everyone else asks me everyday where my bike is. It's been quite a laugh for everyone, including me, but still extremely embarrasing none the less.

But it got me thinking, "what if someone had stolen the bike?" I will no longer leave it outside or unattended in my yard. Coincidentally Bob had escaped during the hour that the bike was "stolen," and even if he had been there, all the thieves would have to do is offer him a plate of spaghetti to distract him. I do not have a relationship with the police, other than the guys who work at the prison near by. I know Peace Corps wants to maintain a seperation, but we are still required to at least have our presence known by local authorities. My town is a large trading town with many trucks going by making the prospect of stealing my bike and boarding a truck to Ouaga tempting.

So what I take out of this whole thing is simple and something that all Volunteers should remember at all times. Do not rely on your being different to be an adequate security system, thieves exist everywhere and they don't take breaks. Lock things up when you are not home and take the time to say hi to local authorities, you never know when you may need them. On the plus side, I did notice how quickly my community responded. It meant a lot to me to know that they have my back when something goes wrong.

Bike returned and no mystery after all. I guess I should call this story "The Mystery of Dylan's Sometimes Empty Brain."

RAIN.

How I love you so. It's like my love for good internet, cable tv, grocery stores, ATMs, and oh all the other things that we take for granted in life. And for the first time since I came to Burkina Faso way back on November 4th, I saw my first droplets of rain.

And boy oh boy did it rain: thunder, lightning, the whole works. And while my little doggie Bob was freaking out because for him it was the first rainstorm, I was crying-literally. I was so incredibly happy that rain came that I started crying; I was so overwhelmed. Of course that prompted Bob to freak out even more. Poor little guy, already scared by the huge storm, he now has to deal with his owner looking upset. Too bad that animals can't sense happiness from tears of joys like we do.

And then the rain stopped, and we went another few days with nothing. Except one day, where a fake storm of thunder and lightning came, with no rain. I was sitting in my typical "please rain on me clothes (standing outside in my boxers)" when my neighbor walks by and sees me. I'm pretty sure that he was wierded out, but not enough to come over and say good evening.

But then Thursday came, and it rained so hard again that the temperature in my house dropped 20 degrees, from a horrendous 105 + humidity to a very comfortable 85-no humidity.

So folks back home, please package up your rain in a hypothetical box and send it via Mother Nature Express to Tenkodogo, Burkina Faso.

I await your gifts wearing only the finest pair of "please rain on me clothes." Boxers.

So another one, short and sweet. Not to much to report this week, but in trying to keep up with a weekly blog I feel I must at least type something.

My Japanese friend and I started the week off by practicing our English and Japanese, respectively. It amazed me how much I actually retained from a wasted year of Japanese as a freshman at college, so it was actually pretty fun. I still got the Hiragana down.

This was a terrific week for me, despite having to stay up til 2AM grading 104 math papers (my fault of course for waiting til the last minute) and having 7AM class the next morning. I finally got my 8GB USB key that I have been fighting for months to get. It's not my key, we used the money made by the computer lab (each student must pay 600franc CFA to use) to buy the key. With it I can now begin installing larger programs onto the now 11 computers that we employ and I can leave it after I have left Tenkodogo for the administration to use. Plus, the school is on page with my plans for next year with the formation of a new, and RESPONSIBLE, student committee to take charge next year of the computer lab.

The main reason for this little blog update is that I changed my Skype name. I could not remember my old account and password and obtaining the info proved to be futile since my old acount was registered under a now defunct dhbutler@uvm.edu email address.

So bad news is you all must locate my new account at dylanhbutler, good news is I have Skype!

So I want to tell you all about a baby project of mine that is in the works right now. A project sort of related to education, but on a much more informal basis, similar to my role as a mentor in City FC back in the land of highways and fast-food.

Since my internet time is short, and I don't want to get too excited about this project before it crashes and burns, I will only write a bit about what it is I have in store.

In West Africa, and especially Burkina Faso, there is a lot of emphasis on girls empowerment. Girls empowerment sounds great and all, but the reality is that it is not practiced to the fullest extent that it could be. It's simply a term that many people use to make themselves sound better, sort of like how we have so many Manchester United fans in the world. In a sense, a bandwagon cause. We in Peace Corps Burkina Faso have placed a great emphasis on girls empowerment, and I have seen a way to do it using a different method: by working with boys. Because how can we promote the equality of women without getting men on the same page?

So I started the idea of a group called Les Hommes de Force, a group named after a group we had a School Without Walls, Men of Strength. I wrote up a plan in French, and gave it to my principal (also my private French teacher) to review. Not only was he encouraging, but he seems excited to help in some small capacity providing me with contacts like the governor to come and talk with my boys about being a man in a changing world, and how to keep up with the times. The group will discuss gender equality and family planning (keeping in mind the Burkina culture of course), as well as information about the prevention of malaria, HIV/AIDS, and other diseases often associated with West Africa. And we will play some football too just too keep them interested.

He is going to help with the selection of the boys from school. We will take 4 students from each 6th grade and 5th grade class (grades go in opposite order here) who demonstrate the values of a leader in the classroom, which we will hopefully get them to demonstrate outside the classroom as well. While everything seems grandiose, we are working things out to make it doable for 2-3 weeks in June. I am super excited because this, unlike my teaching, is my first real project that I started and collaberated on. I only hope that things work out.

Oh, and the Washington Capitals are freaking awesome. C A P S CAPS CAPS CAPS!

So my vacation has ended, but what a vacation it was. I travelled all the way to the west to see the Domes and Waterfalls of Burkina, to Ouaga for a Rubix-Cube themed party, and to Togo for an amazing beach vacation. I will not go into details of the Rubix Cube party, but let's just say that it involves lot of colorful clothing.

I will however, discuss the other two parts of my vacation.

I went to the Southwest to help out with a Girls HIV/AIDS training and soccer camp. It such an amazing event put on by four other Volunteers that I almost felt like I crashed the whole thing. But I don't feel too bad about it, I got to sport a donated pink referee jersey and get back to my referee past. For "field trips" we got to see the waterfalls of Burkina (nothing special) and the Domes. The Domes, however, were amazing and deserve a second trip. They are naturally formed cliffs that are shaped like domes, or free standing columns, that are said to have been formed by the ocean a long time ago. Don't know about the second part, but they are an awesome spectacle that proves that even Burkina Faso can have cool geography.

Rubix Cube--skip that part. Send me an email if you are really interested (Hint hint).

Now onto the last part, Togo.

It started with a bus trip from hell with salami sandwiches, and ended with a bus trip from hell without salami sandwhiches. A total of about 40 hours spent on 2 busses (that's traveling in West Africa for you).

But in between was heaven, a vacation unlike any other I have ever taken. 7 Volunteers and I stayed at a beach side hut resort for 4 dollars a night where the staff would wait on us hand and foot. Fresh fish to eat, delicious. Boat ride in the ocean, done. Some haggler annoying us and we dont want him, gone. One volunteer had his camera stolen. No probem, the staff of Chez Antoine got it back. Palm trees lined this beautiful beach facing the Atlantic Ocean, and cold beer on demand. Oh, we even taught our host about beer pong, he loved it!

In short, it was a wonderful vacation. No crazy stories (minus the boat ride) making it a very relaxing time at the beach. I certainly plan on going there again, if I can tolerate the horrid bus rides on the outside of the sandwich.

I will leave you with a quote spoken by some random Finnish man that approached us at dinner the first night. And my friend's very hilarious response to this awkward question.

Random Finnish guy, "Are you volunteers, or sexual tourists?"

PCV friend, "Can't we be both?"

Not a whole lot to report lately, I know my blog has been pretty dead in March, other than the posting of a mutt named Bob (who managed to find a pig jaw last night on our bike ride home from my friends house). Amazing how time passes once you become comfortable in a place. I'm making friends, working a lot, playing soccer and basketball on a regular basis, and keeping myself remarkably healthy. I have found strategies to counter the word Nisara that are both culturally acceptable and effective, and as a result none of the students dare call me that at school. I am known as Monsieur Dylan (They think Dylan is my family name) to a great number of people here in Tenkodogo.

Yes life is very good. Things no longer suprise me here, I've grown used to the music and food and have started to become my own person at site, not just that weirdo white guy. As most PCVs will tell you, the first couple months you agree to everything because you don't want to offend anyone. Now I don't care as much, and have zero problems in setting my bounds.

Though I will say I was suprised once, when I saw two guys on camel back rolling through. I sat there mesmerized as everyone else continued on their normal routines, as if camels are just as common as goats and donkeys. Hell, I draw more attention than a guy riding on camel back!

"Oh those are just the Peulhs, they come through here on camel back when the weather gets too hot up north. Nothing special."

However, I do expect some of the extraordinary as I prepare myself for my first full blown vacation. Yes that's right, I am taking a vacation.

First stop, Komthoega 40k west to do a computer workshop with my PCV nieghbor Kirstin (the one who gave me Bob) and her girl's club.

Second stop, Banfora, where I will be returning to my roots as a soccer ref coaching girls soccer games in a Peace Corps sponsored soccer tournament in the West. I can't wait to wear the old zebra stripes (in my case pink zebra stripes).

Third stop, Ouagadougou, for an enourmous Peace Corps gathering for the Volunteers leaving in the next coming months. I believe that all or almost all of the 102 Volunteers in Burkina will be in attendance.

Fourth stop (my real vacation), Togo. I am going to the beach baby! Going to stick my little feetsies in the Atlantic for the first time since summer, 2008. Note* I did not dare touch the ocean in Conakry.

In total that makes four stops in 17 days before I must resume, and readjust, to my life in Tenkodogo. Ahhhhh how I love Spring Break.

Puppy Bob

Bob and his buddy, Bobby (I just vaccinated the two)

Bob in a basket

He's bigger than my backpack now.

So I receive the question, more often than I want, and more often than I would like to answer, "How's Africa?" Well I don't know how Africa is. I can tell you about Burkina, and maybe about the coup d'etat in Niger yesterday, but Africa? Oh yeah let's generalize 1 billion people and a boatload of countries in one cure-all adjective, Africa.

My dad was in Kenya the other day, and now passing through South Africa. I can tell you I have no idea of the life or events that go on in those two countries, they are other planets as far as I am concerned.

So a little bit about my life on a daily basis. Yes I'm sure many of you who have read other blogs have tapped a bit into the uneventful, normal life that we live in our respective posts around the world. Honestly, our lives are not that much different. We all have jobs to do and routines--I'm not going on a safari everyday or anything.

But while I'm not willing to admit my life is terribly exciting by any stretch of the imagination, I will concede that it is bizarre and different from the American life--and it suits me quite nicely.

I wake up every morning when it becomes too hot to stay in bed any longer, usually around 7:30 or 8. Twice a week I have 7am class, that being the exception to my normal routine.

Generally after being annoyed that I have to leave my amazing bed, I search for breakfast from several ladies selling avacado and veggie sandwhiches. After a cup of tea (Nescafé here is gross) I head across the path to my school where I then greet--as is custom--every single teacher that happens to be around.

After a few awkard conversations because of my not-so-amazing French, I make up an excuse like I have to teach a course or something, and head to the computer lab (or to an actual math class on the days when my excuse is true). In there I generally have to deal with a hundred kids yelling and running around all wanting to use computers. This is exactly what I want, to encourage kids to use computers, but managing all of them is not easy.

Then lunch time rolls around. Lunch here is so much better than in the States, not the food, but the idea that we go home, nap, and hang out with friends and families because it is too hot to work. The USA has a serious problem with the importance of family and chill time. During this break I generally eat some beans and rice, read a book, and play with the not-so-puppy anymore Bob.

Then the afternoon rolls around, where I generally return to the computer lab after greeting everyone once again and asking about their meals and naps. Being social on the job is super important for getting anything done here, and for that I really envy the Burkinabé way of life.

After the two hour afternoon session we are all done, and depending on the day, I either have teacher (and hopefully community soon) computer literacy classes or I simply play some basketball or football, the real kind, with my students and neighbors. They are all leagues better than I in football, but I get the respect with my basketball skills. Kids here are not so good at this sport, so it makes me look real good.

After that, it's go home, wash up, cook up a meal, play with Bob, and go to bed. Then tomorrow.

So you see, my life essentially is very routine, much the same as everyone else's. And besides the whole Nisara thing, I very much enjoy the routine.

Now on to more interesting matters.

Last weekend was the Tenkodogo village annual bike race. I wanted to enter as a joke, but after watching these men and women pedal these village bikes, I am glad I did not. They were awesome. Without gears these folks pedaled faster than I could ever do, and they did it in boiling hot Burkina sun. I would have been dead last (or dead) easily. I had three visitors for the weekend and the race, three other female PCVs, which has still been the talk of the town. They all ask which one I take as my wife, which I respond "no, the woman has as much of a right to choose her partner as I do."

I also administered my first test this week in math and held my first computer class. While I don't know how my students did on the test, I can assure you that there are 0 perfect scores. Because even with the sentence "Montrer tous les travails" (show all work), nobody did. The computer class was with the other teachers, all of which are eager to learn to type. They believe that with me they will learn typing in a matter of weeks. Unfortunately for them, they are the ones who must learn to type with practice and time, not with someone telling you how to use a typing program.

Oh well... Til next time!

No matter where we are on the planet, life is not easy. Take Washington DC, for example. My city has been absolutely pounded with snow. More than 2 feet, or a small child. That's an insane thought to someone living in a place where rain is difficult to come by. So in DC, we have the struggle to heat the home, make it to work, and get to the grocery store so we can put a plate of food on the table for our loved ones.

Take a 180 turn and you might find yourself in Burkina Faso where daily struggles are far different, but still are related to our basic needs as human beings. Over here, we struggle with extreme heat and infertile land to cultivate, leading us to the basic need of putting a plate of food out at night for our loved ones.

This world may have its extremes, but the basic human needs of water, food, and shelter still plague all of us everyday.

Except me. I have the good fortune of being a Peace Corps Volunteer, where we have enough money to eat everyday, the neccessary healthcare required to live in such extreme conditions, and a staff fully equipped to counter the problems that we may face. So my basic human needs are met, what next?

I struggle everday to fight the stigma of being a white guy. I have been a minority at middle school and high school, but I still grew up in a very good home in a good situation. I am one of the fortunate ones. For the first time in my life, I am experiencing the effects of being a minority. A student of mine who speaks pretty good English asked me the other day in a concerning tone, "Why don't you have friends here?"

That question has plagued me for the last week. And the truth is, I don't know why. I am limited greatly in my abilities to communicate, but it runs deeper than that. I come from a background that is impossible to describe to folks, even in English, and a culture with qualities that clash greatly with the culture I have been dropped off in.

The word Nisara is the most hated word in my dictionary. It means white person. While it does not have the connations of racial slurs in America, in fact having Nisara things (cars for example) is a good thing here, to me it is an extremely divisive word.

Today as I was returning from lunch I walked past a dad and his daughter, with the father pointing at me saying Nisara so the child would learn that is what you call white people. I struggle everday to fight the stigma, to have people call me "monsier" or my actual name "Dylan." I gave up trying to tell adults, but instead I try to tell the kids that words like "Nisara," "Toubabou," and "Le Blanc" are extremely impolite and disrespectful. While I have managed to get a few neighborhood kids, there are still a thousand more left to go.

Judge me not by the color of my skin, but by the content of my character. -Quote adapted from Martin Luther King Jr.

In other news, I met the President of Burkina Faso at a Taiwanese Fisherie last Sunday. The Taiwanese built a fantastic fish farm in Bagre, a town of my closest PCV neighbor Carolyn, that has been handed over to Burkinabe government. The meeting was actually a complete suprise--I was wearing shorts and t-shirt as it was Sunday morning. I was completely embarrased.

I am in the process of transferring computer lab rights to some students who formed a computer lab committee. While I still have full control, I am eager to lessen the rope of access so that I no longer have to spend every waking hour dealing with whiny students wanted to play Zuma and Pinball. For those of you who don't know the program DeepFreeze, familiarize yourself. It is the greatest program I have ever used.

Also, read up on Guinea with the link I have posted here:

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/03/world/africa/03guinea.html

So I am full of real news this week, not like last week's horrid attempt at journalism. But hey, somebody has to take a chance at a calling that he was never meant to be right?

Sooooooooo,

Last weekend I went to Komtaegha (I honestly have no idea how to spell it). One of my close PCV neighbors and friends Kirsten, a health Volunteer, currently lives and works at the health center in this remote town. How did I get there? Well that is the fun part.

I biked it. Yeah you heard me. I biked it. 45k one way (and back) with a dog in a basket on the back of my bike. Little bob ain't so little anymore, but he can still fit in a basket. And he loved the ride. I mean seriously why wouldn't he? He just sat there while I did all the work biking against that awful Burkina wind. Dad, I remember back in the day when you biked with me and sis strapped in one of those carriage things. Didn't realize how annoying it must have been until now for you to ride while we complained about heat or whatever it was that little Dylan and Hannah complained about.

We had a grand ol'time in my friend's tiny little village. She, unlike me, has no creature comforts. She lives with a family over of over 50 children and relatives that speak little to no French, and no food boutiques to eat at if she is feeling too lazy to cook. No trees either for shade. Compared to her my experience is posh. So why did I bring Bob?

Bob was born there, and as such I thought it was neccessary for him to see his family--oh us Americans and our dogs. When we got to his house of birth we learned some unfortunate news, Bob's mom died and his dad was nowhere to be found. But he had two brothers still there, who I hardly doubt that Bob cared for. Between you and me, I think Bob is getting too used to his status of importance. These two starving brothers were desperate to play with him, and Bob wanted nothing to do with them.

So after the visit me and Kirsten went off to drink Dolo, a local drink made out of millet that is served all over Burkina. Had a few cups at this gathering (the awesomeness of this gathering cannot be put into words--you will just have to come and see) and then we headed off to meet more residents of the town.

There was one particular interaction that may rank has the most hilarious greeting in my life. This child was said by Kirsten to be one of the few kids, if not the only kid, that was not scared or timid of her presence when she first arrived in village one year ago. When I met this kid, however, he did something that would make me a millionare Youtuber. When he went to shake my hand, I jumped and scared him (which his dad thought hilarious) and this kid booked it. I mean booked it. He turned around, and ran full speed the equivalent of two blocks to his home not looking back once. I unfortunately may have scarred the kid, but for me, Kirstin, and this kid's father it was the laugh of a lifetime!

My first week:

I taught my first math class this week. And you know what, I loved it. It was a total blast. The kids (all 80 of them in one classroom) seemed to have a blast as well. While there was some confusion in class because I was not sure exactly where they left off from the last semester, nobody seemed to care.

For the first lesson I drew a map of the USA with some cities on it. While my map was horribly not to scale, it served its purpose. I connected each of the cities to form shapes like squares and rectangles and had the students calculate the perimeter and area of each figure. They had a good time of it asking questions about each city (New York, LA, DC, and Las Vegas--kids love Las Vegas for some reason) and which state was Burkina Faso. That was a fun explanation.

For another fun lesson I had kids measure the area of the school room and calculate the maximum number of students, 3 to a desk, that the room could hold. While already way overcrowded, we learned that we could actually stuff a few more in there, like another 90 students or so. That would of course leave no room to walk and I would have to teach by standing on top of desks, but why not, I like a good challenge.

Next week I have to start my computer classes for students and teachers alike (the teachers are desperate to learn about computers, even more than the students). Looks like I'll be teaching 7 hours of computer class to the older students, and 6 hours of private tutoring times for teachers. Like everything in Burkina Faso, on va voir (we will see).

So that's it and once again I am safe and sound. Sunday night is the Africa Cup Final between Egypt and Ghana (no Burkina sadly) and I will type it now, Egypt will win. I think they are angry about their failure to qualify for the World Cup, so they are pummeling teams right now. Take poor Algeria in the semi-final, who took the World Cup spot from Egypt last November. Egypt took revenge on them by beating them 4-0 and making Algeria receive 3 red cards in the process.

But before I leave you, I would like to tell make a list of particular items that students here in Tenkodogo would love to have. I don't like doing this because I feel there are so many people all the time asking us for our hard-earned money, but sometimes it is nice to give back.

So I'm not asking you for cash, I am asking for supplies that you all have lying around your homes.

Kids here love:

Stickers (I like to put them on students papers when they do well)

Crayons

Pens

Colored Pencils

Notebooks

Balls (soccer balls are a premium, but they, the students, are not picky)

Simple Board Games like Sorry and Trouble

Old Computer Equipment (mainly for me to put in the lab, but the kids will learn to love a good optical mouse)

So that's it. Feel free to mail anything like that via post, or as of today, you can send it to my folks who will be coming in July to visit! I am sure they will be more than overjoyed to bring in a truckload of trinkets for kids here to enjoy.

Coupe d'Afrique Nations

That is the major theme of this week, and the following couple of week. It is the EuroCup of Africa, beaten only in popularity by the Coupe du Monde en Afrique du Sud.

The tournament consists of four groups and is being hosted in Angola. Burkina Faso is in Group B with Cote D'Ivoire, Ghana, and Togo. However, Togo's bus was attacked by Angolan militants forcing Togo to resign from the tournament. So as it stands, two of the ofther three teams will qualify for the next round. Burkina tied Cote D'Ivoire 0-0 in the first match, and Cote D'Ivoire spanked Ghana 3-0 in the next match bumping Cote D'Ivoire into the next round. That means that if Burkina is to qualify it must win or tie against a Ghana team fueled by an embarrasing loss to Drogba's Ivorians. Ghana must win.

In other big matches, FIFA ranked #12 Cameron lost to the tiny nation of Gabon 0-1, Malawi spanked World Cup Bound Algeria 3-0, and many other exciting results have taken place. In short, I am typing this to let people now just how far Africa has come in the football realm. These teams are far better than we know, and I believe that the USA would struggle to qualify for the World Cup if they had to go through Africa. Also, if any of you very depressed Redskins fan want to watch some real football this winter, check out the internet and watch some African football.

So that's it for my journalistic abilities. I will now switch to what I do best, writing quick updates about life here in West Africa and news tidbits. I also wanted to thank everyone for the positive emails that I received in response to my email about the URL change to my blog. Just knowing that there are some people out there reading my rubbish gives me the motivation to continue it.

But the most important news of the day, besides of course the my football obsession, once again has to do with Guinea. Daddiss is back--and he is resting comfortably in a villa in the luxorious Ouagadougou neighborhood called Ouaga 2000 (this country is poor, but one would not know that living there with Hummers driving past you). Yes he is recovering here in Burkina Faso, why? I don't think anyone has any idea. I have seen him on the news, and I can tell you this, he is a shell of his former self. The bullet wound left a 5 inch scar in his head and Daddiss is much more subdued. It's difficult for me to imagaine that this quiet man was once the loud military leader of the country that Peace Corps was forced to evacuate from. Amazing how being shot in the head changes your life. Hopefully that will never happen to me.

Yes that is correct. It is written. I have been in the Peace Corps and West Africa for six months. I have survived stomach problems, a wild rash, an evacuation, a new site, and a very needy puppy. Not only that, this period marks the longest time that I have spent away from home. Thailand had to give up that throne sooner or later.

And through all of this, I am still here. Still here and very healthy. Heck, even my knee is feeling 100%. One year ago, for those who remember, I cracked my knee cap essentially cancelling my service in Uganda and sending me on this wild journey to where I now type this blog entry, Tenkodogo.

I am very happy to be here typing this to you, world. My journey to this point has taken me on a ride that I will never forget and that only a few people ever have the chance to experience. This adventure has made me proud of who I am and has increased the bonds of friendship between me and many of my friends. The temptation to leave, to return to the familiar, has been there--believe me--but I stuck it out, and as a result I am 1/4 of the way through.

Before I get into stories of my Christmas, I wanted to apologize to you. I have failed in getting you any pictures It's not that I have not taken any. In fact, it's quite the contrary. I have filled up three memory cards, two of which are safely at home, in the USA. I have learned to be patient in the Peace Corps, very patient, but even my adapted Peace Corps patience has its limit, and it wears thin at the "uploading pictures through Burkinabe internet" point. You can blame my parents if you would like, CONVICE them to post my photos for me. American internet is so wonderful, you have no idea.

So a little about my last month, as I just now realize that my last post was really that long ago. It's amazing at how time passes here. Everyday just blends togethor. You think that you have done nothing and that time is going at a snail's pace, and then you check your watch and all of a sudden you have been in West Africa for six months. Enough rambling.

I spent Christmas here in Tenkdogo with a few other visiting Volunteers and some Japanese JICA Volunteers. One of my friends even visited from Benin, a fellow G-Vac'er (It's what us Guinea evac volunteers call ourselves). I now owe him a visit. How unlucky for me, having to go to Benin and hang out on the beach in the country that created Voodoo. *Sigh* I guess I will manage. We made burritos and sushi, drank lots of different beer, made Christmas decorations, and even listened to Christmas music. It was a great Christmas despite it being the first Christmas away from home.

Highs and lows of Christmas-

Highs: Got a puppy. He looks like a tiger. And to save my mother from the questionning of "what type is it?," there are no types here. He is an African mutt.

Lows: Avatar. That movie really sucked. Maybe if I had seen it in theatres instead of on a laptop I would have a different opinion, but as a movie, it was awful. Plot has been done countless times. This movie reaffirms that CG does not make a good movie. Oh and that blue thing making love to another blue thing? What is that about? Totally not cool.

Shifting gears: New Years. New Years was very different from Christmas. While Christmas was very relaxed, New Years was wild. Forget the dancing at the outside night club until 5 am, Chez Simon, a bar at the heart of Ouaga's hotel district, was the rowdiest place I have ever been. Right at the strike of midnight, Chez Simon became a warzone. People were lighting of fireworks everywhere, shooting bottle rockets from hands and from car windows, exploding aerial fireworks on the ground like land mines, and generally blowing stuff up with no regard to anyone's safety. I'm actually suprised nobody was hurt. Despite all of this, it was a grand ol' time.

Fast forward to now. Life has returned to normal. I am back at site after completing yet another training last week. Bob, my puppy (think Bob Dylan), is happy and healthy and no longer pees on my apartment floor. And I am gearing up for two different events. Teaching, the being the most important, still has not started. This time around, however, I have stuff to do in place of teaching. I am busy fixing the computer lab and am in the process of forming a computer group to serve as a treasury for new computer parts and as a training center for several highly motivated students and teachers to learn computer maintanence. I am by no means an expert, but in this last month I have become very saavy with basic repair. I am also continuing with the English club. Despite this, I won't teach a formal class until the start of the next semester. And as usual, I have no idea when that is.

The second event: I am gearing up to travel to Dakar to play in the annual West African Invitational Softball Tournament (WAIST). Peace Corps Guinea/Mauritania have entered an evac team (both Peace Corps were evacuated last year) and I expect to play. The tournament consists of embassy teams, Peace Corps teams, NGO teams, and any others generally interested in playing. It is supposed to be a very entertaining event, and I, along with 8 other Burkina Faso Volunteers, are excited to be making the journey in February.

So that's it from my neck of the woods. As some of you may notice, I have updated my address. You can now send letters and packages to Tenkodogo directly, bypassing Ouagadougou. I left both address up. Also, you may notice a weather report. This was for my buddy Petar, who enjoyed rubbing in my face the snowfall that hit DC last month. So when it's bitter cold in DC, this serves as a little piece of friendly revenge to you Petar.

Best of luck everyone from me and Bob!