Another term is coming to an end and now I’m looking forward to the long holiday break (2 months) of girl empowerment, gorillas, stove building, soap making, and of course, dreaming of a white Christmas. At site, I’ve continued to work on the stoves, books, soap, distributing AFRIpads (reusable menstrual pads that are very “smart”), classes, and maps (we have moved on from the World Map--shown here (the countries are numbered on the map and along the borders, we cut out stencils using razors and computer paper of the countries, capitals, and the corresponding number--I've recently gotten some slack for numbering the US as number 3, not number 1-Canada and Mexico come before it alphabetically...but that seems to be besides the point for most people) to the East Africa Map). This past week, I organized and gathered about 43 volunteers (about a third of the total Uganda PC population) together in Gulu to celebrate Thanksgiving (this may be one of the most ridiculous things I’ve attempted to organize in Uganda but it shockingly worked out beautifully—one Thanksgiving dinner with all the trimmings and more, no stress, no drama, and no one left hungry). All in all, I’m loving life here and have found myself really coming into my own here.

A few months ago, my family met a man named Sebastian in Washington DC who used to build fuel efficient stoves in Northern Uganda (it’s a small world after all). He gave them the name and contact of the organization that he used to work with called International Lifeline Fund which they then passed on to me. Long story short, I started talking with ILF and next year, starting in June, I’m going to be a Peace Corps volunteer working for them for an additional year, building large Institutional Stoves in and around Lira (which happens to be my second favorite town in Uganda, next to Kitgum, my current home). This will give me an opportunity to really commit myself to stove building, rather than struggling to fit my stove expeditions around my classes and other commitments in Kitgum, and will hopefully prepare me for going to graduate school for Environmental Engineering when I come home in Summer 2013.

For those of you who are shaking your heads right now (or crying uncontrollably), wondering when I will finally snap out of it, leave Uganda, and see them again, fear not! I will be coming home for the month of May (round trip paid for by the Peace Corps) before starting my third year. If you are living outside of Virginia, DC, or Colombia, it is my humble request that you see if you can make the trip to one of those three places and visit during that month. Otherwise, those in VA, DC, and my lovely roommate in Colombia, please expect me on you doorstop for however so briefly in about 5 months. I’ll write again shortly after Christmas hopefully with pictures of Gorillas, up close and personal. Happy Holidays! Make sure you let me know if one of your New Years Resolutions is to travel to East Africa!

Hello all. For those of you in VA, I hope you and your belongings survived the earthquake! All those in VA and NYC, I hear that you are living without power for the time being which means that we can have some shared experiences now. The term ended about 2 weeks ago and will start again in a week. During the term, we took one more giant step towards finishing the World Map (there are now names on the countries (including the new Republic of Southern Sudan) and we’ve added all those pesky little islands that my students have been a bit too eager to paint right over with blue…despite the fact that they now know that Uganda is indeed quite a small ountry, anything smaller than Uganda doesn’t seem to really be worth the effort in their minds…), our students are getting ready for their national exams next term, and our power transmission was stolen so we spent the second half the term without power. At the end of the term, I joined hands with the other female teachers at my school to welcome and host Archbishop Orumbi (Archbishop of the Protestant Church here) and 2000 other people coming to see him. I also acquired two more women’s groups with whom I have started to make liquid soap (I now have a grand total of 4 groups plus my students…watch as my empire grows). I traveled to the SW to build an oven, carrying a full bag of tools (trowels, level, L ruler etc) and 3 welded pieces: a chimney that was light, but about 6ft long, a chimney base that weighed maybe 30lbs and was about 1m2 and last but not least, an oven box that was 40cmX60cmX60cm and took 2 strong men (4 weaker men) to carry (did I mention that the trip takes about 20 hours and involves changing to progressively smaller and more packed vehicles 3 times?) I put here a picture of the last vehicle which took me and 7 other people (and 2 children) about an hour down a dirt road that has seen better days. This trip made me realize that I seem to pack a ridiculous amount on public transport vehicles here (there’s a good chance I was a pack horse in a past life because most normal Peace Corps Volunteers tend to pack less and less as time goes on….). So here’s the top 5 list of things I’ve transported:

1) Oven etc (this must top the list because really, needing 3-5 people to help you carry your “luggage” really should put me up there on the level with royalty—eat your heart out Marie Antoinette)

2) 27 2*2*1 ft boxes of books and a desktop computer

3) 3 jerry cans of chemicals and other solid chemicals in a box and a large bag of empty water bottles (this has happened multiple times/in different combinations)

4) 10L of peanut sauce and 8kg of black beans

5) 13 secondary school girls and a pair of black shoes in a black plastic bag that I accidentally took, thinking the bag was mine….it belonged another unknown and now shoeless secondary school girl…whoops

Also, since I’ve now completed 1 1/3 years of teaching here, I thought I’d mention things that have happened to me here that would never happen to a teacher in the US:

1) A chicken flying into the classroom only to be caught by a student and forced back out the window, only causing a minute or two of distraction from the normal lesson

2) A rainstorm that forces 70 students to crowd around me in the center of the room because the rain was soaking 75% of the classroom and making it impossible to move or talk in the remaining 25%

3) Giving a 2 hour computer exam, 3 girls at a time, by candlelight (the generator can only power so much)

At the end of the term, I headed to the SW to be a counselor for a regional GLOW (Girls Leading Our World) camp during which I rewrote many popular Ugandan songs to be camp songs (truly, my radio listening experience here will never be the same). Afterwards, I visited Sipi Falls in the East with a friend which is has 3 beautiful waterfalls—we could get close enough to get a bit of a mist shower (the best thing about the trip is that not many tourists visit the Falls so it’s almost an untouched part of Uganda). I believe that we thoroughly entertained our guide by constantly singing (we were fresh from being Camp counselors) and by greeting everyone along the way in their local language (this is quite unusual for foreigners to do…period).

Here in Uganda, I have met a lot of people who were named after famous people (George Bush, Obama, Bill Clinton, Sadam Hussein….), but now there is a new installment to the list: a dog named Qadaffi…truly, the Ugandans know how to celebrate history.

Anyways, I hope all is well! Please tell me what’s going on with you all!

The first term ended last Thursday and my goodness, my school way not kidding when they told me: “sometimes, the first term is somehow busy…” I found myself with a number of projects and events, often going on at the same time. As a relaxed to my favorite “public transport” song (Nelly’s “It Must Be the Money”) last Friday on a run-down matatu (15 passenger van with 20 people instead of 15 stuffed in) that needed to be pushed a block before it could start) on my way to see a friend 4 hours away (on a road where the pot holes resemble small lakes) for Easter, I remembered that it’s been a while since I wrote in my blog. Unfortunately, such a venue is not an appropriate location for breaking out my laptop so again, I’m a bit delayed.

I have continued to work with my Life Skills club. We are still making liquid soap and doing self-esteem activities, but now we’ve added on bee keeping with 5 bee hives in front of the school, the actual bees coming soon (pictured: 2 of the hives and some of the girls "baiting" the hives with melted bees wax). I also started running with the girls and some of the teachers on Saturday morning during the school’s weekly Morning Road Run (the school just started again this term: imagine 900 girls running down the road, all singing at the top of their lungs….it’s crazy). At the school, the green club and I have also added another large stove (2nd installment of 4 as seen in the picture), copying the larger version I got to help a vocational school and some Peace Corps Volunteers build in Gulu (just south of me) in honor of Peace Corps’ 50th anniversary (see picture of a bricklaying teacher and some of his students are pictured with the nearly completed product). With the help of the fine art teacher and 2 fine art students, the world map is complete (minus the names of the countries) in all of its colorful glory, front row and center, visible from even the main road and is bound to help the students finally understand the shape, size, and location of such strange countries as Canada, India, and of course, Uganda. With all these projects, I have been more busy outside of the classroom than inside the classroom and I am still in shock about how much trust my school has in me (enough to let me draw the world free hand on a prominent wall of the school without any geography or fine art degree to qualify me) and support my school gives me to allow me to do and then to fund these huge projects. Thank goodness I ended up at a school as crazy as I am.

I’ve also started to work with 2 of the 10 women’s groups that my Head Teacher began. These groups started to help women in the same villages help each other recover from the war financially and mentally. After fleeing their homes and then living in Internally Displaced People Camps for as many as 20 years, these women returned to looted homes and lacked basics they needed to get their lives back: pots, pans, etc. Alone, none of them could afford all that they needed, so they saved together and each week they would pool their money for one member to buy what she needed. After a while, they also started to making needle points and paper beads to make extra money through the Anglican Diocese. Now, we make liquid soap with a vengeance to make money and mud stoves in their homes to save money on firewood. Between the local gossip and the impromptu composing of songs that they do as they work, these women are a lot of fun to work with.

These projects have certainly made me miss a few conveniences from America including bricks that don’t break in half if you drop them from 1 m in the air and have led to a few small disasters like purple paint spilling all over the boot of my bus, including on 20 pineapples, after being packed poorly (the only good thing that came out of this is that I have never gotten off a bus to a more concerned and helpful crowd of boda bodas (motorcycle drivers)—these people are usually more likely to laugh at or harass you than help, but I guess purple paint everywhere seemed to help my position because I swear they were all sincerely sorry about my situation).

All in all, a very successful Spring, but now I get to take a chill pill for a few weeks before the circus of my busy schedule begins again next term (so much for that free time I thought I’d have in Peace Corps). Hope all is well and keep me up to date with any and all exciting/mundane news.

So it ended up that I transported 26 large boxes of books plus another box with a desktop computer in it via public transport from Kampala to Kitgum…talk about overpacking. Books for Africa delivered quite a variety of books and while I’m still wrestling with the fact that more than half of the ones received definitely do no fit into the category Teen fiction (Heathcare 2010, How to Read French Literature, Unsolved Murders….), I am grateful for the ones that do fit in and have a lot of hope of what Books for Africa can accomplish if it just pays a bit more attention to how it categorizes books.

I’m writing now, not only because I’m trying to write more frequent and shorter blog entries, but also because a little more than one year ago, I joined the Peace Corps. So break open a bottle of ice cold beer as I rip open a ketchup package of room temperature local brew and we’ll celebrate…maybe not.

Things are starting a bit slowly this term but I think I will be very busy soon once again. We are in the 4th week of the term (which is funny since I’ve yet to meet with 4 of my 5 classes for one reason or another) and just like they may be saying “Spring is in the air” back home, “Politics are in the air” here, in much of North Africa and in the Middle East. I’m sure you all have been reading about Tunisia, Egypt, Yemen, Iran, and Bahrain and if you are clued into any general African news, you might be hearing a bit about a little country called Uganda. 5 other volunteers in my group were actually on vacation in Egypt at the time of the protests, but thankfully they were able to fly out to Athens on a fight chartered for American citizens and are now safe and sound. Elections for all levels (from very local to President) here happened this past Friday. Students over age 18 were released from school last Wednesday to go to their home of record and vote. The Embassy has been gearing up for this election for more than a year now, fearing the worst, but (knock on wood) it seems to be peaceful. Election Day and the preceding week included a few car accidents or small incidents and scattered cries of “Corruption! Corruption!,” but no major riots. Great story in Kitgum: the police get called in because citizens find a coffin full of ballots (obviously not real votes right?). Well, the police, God bless them, decided that they should then take the coffin to the voting center to be counted…so the MP (member of Parliament) announced to have won didn’t really win and people put up a non-violent stink about it in town…who knows when it will be resolved (a teacher at my school looked at me after relaying this news and said "T.I.A., Aber"--This is Africa). The rumors that Musevini is rigging this election are pretty widespread and include charges that he has been using Government funds for campaigning, handed money out to citizens (via his staff) in exchange for their promise to vote for him, and made sure that the electoral board is all his people. The main people he was running against were his former personal doctor who has run against him for the last 2 elections, a woman, and a man from Gulu. Election results were publicized on Sunday and Musevini won the cake and took home the crown of glory with about 68% of the vote. No one's suprised, but I think people are waiting to see if he decides to adjust the constitution again so he can run for another term in 5 years.

Enough of politics. I’ll write again in a month, hopefully with a long laundry list of projects accomplished. Hope all is well.

My new year’s resolution: “update my blog more often,” so here it goes. Right now, I’m in the capital Kampala with a bout of Walking Pneumonia, enjoying the fresh air and plentiful amounts of “muzungu” or foreign food that a bustling city can provide. So as I take another dose of antibiotics, chase it with a latte and gaze around at the lovely population of white NGO workers surrounding me, I’ll reflect on the many events that have brought me here (here being the point at which my body angrily demands some r&r).

Third term, as I may have mentioned before is a busy one for everyone and I am no exception. The term was 5 weeks longer than normal, but by week 7 (of the 12 weeks of teaching) the following still needed to happen: midterm week, final week, UNEB exams for both S.4 and S.6, a week of Peace Corps training near Kampala, a weekend of GLOW camp training in Entebbe, the making and packaging of 80 more L of Liquid Soap, the installation of 5 beehives, a student-led lesson on how to make reuseable pads for the female teachers, the arrival and transport of 500 or so books, a Music Dance and Drama competition, and the construction of a large industrial mud “rocket” stove.

My teaching schedule included a number of extra lessons in the early mornings and late nights to make up for the time I spent away from the school and to catch up with the Biology teacher who was to set the final exam and was still about 4 lessons ahead of me (this is after I thought I had finally caught up)—don’t ask me for the details, but after some extra notes and quizzes and a bit of bribery/incentives in the form of sweets, my Biology class will enter their 3rd year of secondary school (when they are mixed up with members of the other classes based on their performance) without missing any of the curriculum in the transition. Huge success story though: I actually was able to organize and supervise laboratory exercises this term for my 70 girls with minimal space and resources (after the horror stories I had heard from other volunteers, the idea of conducting labs in Uganda had been haunting my dreams for a long while).

As for the tasks awaiting the Life Skills club (liquid soap, reuseable pad lesson, bee keeping, and MDD competition), I decided to literally “divide and conquer.” The club was divided into 4 committees, each in charge of a different project. By the end of the term, the liquid soap had been made and sold, 5 S.1 and S.2 girls taught 7 female teachers (pictured)—which is all but the 2 who had recently given birth—(including my head teacher and her deputy) how to make the reuseable pads, and the MDD competition gave the S.1 and S.2 students a chance to perform and compete while spreading awareness about HIV/AIDS and Early Pregnancy. Beekeeping is still on the horizon and hopefully those buzzing little buggers will join our community next term.

I reformed the Green Club and together, we built the first of four fuel efficient mud “rocket” stoves. It took about 3 weeks and a somewhat lonely/stressful Thanksgiving to gather all of the materials needed with the much appreciated help of some teachers and staff at my school, a local carpenter and welder, and my fellow PCVs Zach Bagley and Steve Worrell. About 30 students (5 of whom are what I’d like to call the Rocket Stove Dream Team since they worked basically non-stop for 2 days), some teachers and kitchen staff members, 6 hard-working PCVs (Steve and Mary McQuilkin, who came all the way from Gulu and Zach, Travis Hasler, and Dave Weldon from Kitgum/Padibe and Johnathan Blanchard), and I labored for 2 full days at the end of November. The stove needed 3 large termite mounds of dirt/unlucky termites (picture on the left here), 5 large bags of sawdust, about 400 bricks, 400L of water, 1/3 bag of fire cement, 5 pieces of ceramic tile, and 2 lovely pieces of welded steel and the process broke 1 wheelbarrow, 2 hoes, and 1 saw. We’ll start using it next term and plan to build the second stove at the end of the beginning-of-term exams. The green club has plans to go into the community to teach women how to make the feul-efficient “family sized” mud stoves and to grow vegetables on a small plot of land. Hopefully, we will organize an Earth Day celebration for the school and be able to take a trip to a national park before the end of the Summer.

GLOW (Girls leading our world) camp was December 5-11 with 150 girls (including 5 deaf girls), 30 American and Ugandan counselors, and 7 staff members, and was a big success (website: http://campglowuganda.yolasite.com/). 5 of the 40 girls from my school who wrote the essay application were selected to attend. My counterpart and I transported 13 girls total to and from Entebbe (if you look on a map, Entebbe is literally on the opposite side of Uganda from Kitgum). Counselors taught sessions on Teamwork (importance of communication etc.), Healthy Living (HIV/AIDS, puberty/sexual health, water sanitation, malaria), GLOWing (general self-esteem), Life Skills, and Arts & Crafts. I was given the session “Painting” which I think would make most of my old art teachers laugh, but supposedly I channeled them well, gaining a reputation as a 5th grade art teacher by teaching the girls how to make paint with flour, salt, water, and food color and then letting them release their artistic ability on pieces of white cloth and unfortunately the classroom floor as well… Hopefully the boy’s version of this camp will happen later this year (TOBE "Teaching Our Boys to Excel") and the 2nd annual GLOW camp will happen next December.

In Kampala with me, are 7 boxes of novels going to my school, 8 boxes of reference books and a desktop computer going to another site in Kitgum, and 2 more boxes of books to go to Padibe. All of these books will hopefully be travelling with me to Kitgum the day after tomorrow on the bus and the computer will join them as soon as the Peace Corps has a reason to make a trip to Kitgum.

Now, enough with work, let me give you a little taste of Ugandan culture and tell you about a lovely cultural exchange that occurred over the last 3 weeks. When the 13 girls were safely delivered back to the North, I turned around and went to see a cultural phenomenon that happens during even years in Eastern Uganda: Male Circumcision. Although, many people have turned to the humane and modern practices of church or hospital to circumcise their sons (circumcision limits men’s vulnerability to contracting HIV/AIDS), some of the Ugandans around Mbale still go about it the traditional way. Boys are told from their birth that at some point between the time they are 8 and 20, they will be circumcised and will become men. Sounds easy right? Well, there are some things I forgot to mention: the boys not allowed to use drugs, alcohol, or any form of anesthetic to dull the pain and should they flinch, shout out, faint, or react to the cutting in any way besides what their body may naturally in response to severe pain (legs shaking etc.) as they stand in front of a huge crowd of shouting and dancing neighbors with a “surgeon” and a sharp knife, they are marked as cowards for the rest of their lives and will have trouble getting a wife and having any status in society. No pressure, right? Well, they do have one option to help them along: they can choose not to sleep for the two nights before the circumcision after spending the entirety of those two days dancing around with a crowd of their family and neighbors, painted in war paint and wearing traditional clothes. This sleep deprivation would give them a natural anesthetic which is better than nothing I guess. All in all it’s an amazing experience to watch and one that I’m sure the colonizing British did not see or at least did not appreciate.

I met my family in Ethiopia on December 21st for a whirlwind tour of East Africa. The trip started with the monasteries, rock-hewn churches (literally carved out of a volcanic rock called red tuff where the top of the church is level with the surface or carved into the walls of caves; each church is maybe about 4-6 meters tall) and castles of Ethiopia. Our 2 day excursion to Kenya took us to Nairobi and on an unsuccessful road-trip to the Masai Mara Park, full of bad directions, bad roads, and a vehicle that unfortunately could neither get us into the park nor to the hotel, but did give us a nice 4 hour tour of Kenya’s country side around the park before we turned back to drive the 5 hours back to Nairobi and enjoy a late dinner at 9:30pm that night and a plane ride to Uganda the next afternoon. In Uganda we went to 2 national parks (where we saw antelope, giraffes, hippos, elephants, warthogs, tons of birds, crocodiles, baboons, a red monkey, a lion, and a leopard), Gulu, and to a lovely 5 star bed and breakfast in Kitgum known as my home. It was so nice to share my life here with my family, which unfortunately for them included the very hot and dusty dry season of Kitgum and a bit of public transport (including 3 buses that left 1-2 hours late, one complete with 5 people (not us) standing in the aisle for the duration of the trip and another that sat my sister next to a large gentleman who confused her shoulder with a pillow). The best part of the trip other than the fact that I got to see and spend time with them was being able to introduce them to some of the wonderful volunteers and Ugandans I get to work with here. Should my blog ever confuse you in the future, please feel free to go to them as my ambassadors to America (they should be able to explain the majority of the craziness that is my life in Uganda).

Sorry to everyone who has struggled with snow over the last several weeks, I hope that it gave you a bit of time to rest at least (even if it were in an airport or in your driveway after you collapsed post-shoveling). The referendum in Sudan seems to have been a mixture of violent riots and peaceful democracy, hopefully the latter will win out. Supposedly last week in Kitgum, a miracle occurred when a man transformed his body minus his head into a snake in the middle of the bus park. The term is supposed to start January 31st and the election is supposed to follow it in early-mid February.

I hope that you all had a wonderful New Years! Please send me any updates in your lives! I'll send another email when I get to my home with pictures of my family's trip once it's loaded on my computer and of me sitting on 7 or so boxes of books successfully transported (knock on wood) to please those of you uncertain about whether I am indeed still alive here.

Please accept my humblest apologies for “being lost” (in Ugandan English, this means “being absent, unseen, etc.”) for the past 2 months, but we have been without power basically for the past 2 months (these past 36 hours have been the longest I’ve had power, much less power that is stable enough to charge a computer—knock on wood). The secret plan (don’t tell the Kitgum Local Government) is to charge into town backed by 900 YY Okot students with torches and burn down the power company’s office—I think somebody may have informed the company of this plan and so poof, we have power.

The term is almost at an end with about a week and a half of classes left before exams, one week of duty for me (this is the time that I and two other teachers take our turn running the school), exams, and a variety of activities that I’ll talk about in just a bit. Most of the Ordinary Level candidates (Senior 4) have finished their exams and are now leaving the school and eagerly (or fearfully) awaiting the results of the tests that will determine if they can continue in school. At the same time that our non-candidate students take their internal exams in a little less than 2 weeks, our Advanced Level candidates (S6) will take their exams that will determine if they can continue in school (university or a national teacher’s college). In other words, especially with the lack of power, this has been a bit of a stressful term for everyone.

All in all, however, life is good. My house is a bit roomier now that I have removed the guest bed (those of you bold enough to visit me, don’t worry, there’s still a mattress and a nice cold cement floor…) so that in the near future some female teachers and I can start doing yoga and ab workout sessions in my hut…truly, it probably will be just as ridiculous as it sounds. Also in the near future (before the end of the term), my debate club will host a debate tournament in the school, my life skills club will host a Music, Dance and Drama competition (complete with our Senior 5’s leading the audience in Christmas carols in between the performances) and will start their bee keeping project, and some absolutely wonderful Peace Corps volunteers of Kitgum and Gulu are going to help me, the kitchen staff, and the newly reactivated Green Club build an industrial mud stove for our kitchen so that we can save money and not use as much firewood.

These things, however, are yet to come and so let us turn to the past and present so you have a better sense what’s shaking in Kitgum. PC hosted a life skills training outside Kampala for my Training Group about a week ago, which was great, but nothing compared to the hospitality I experienced in Lira as I visited Bernadette (pictured with her awesome counterpart—probably one of the strongest women I’ve met—in a typical primary school classroom, minus the 100+ students) and Hellen (pictured with her Women’s group making and teaching me how to make bar soap). Both are phenomenal volunteers, and really an inspiration to visit. As you read this, there are some 500 or so novels trying desperately somewhere in Southern Uganda (or for 50 of them (if we are unlucky) somewhere in or over the Atlantic Ocean) to reach a cute little room in YY Okot’s library. In other words, the book project or mission “Bring Fun Books to YY Okot” is alive and well and about to reach a home near me. For those of you who are unfamiliar with this mission, the English department here is always complaining about how the girls write very poorly in English. Most girls don’t own any books (if they do, it’s probably the Bible which (as any of you who have tried or succeeded to read the Bible before can attest) is not an easy read) and rarely, if ever, check out a book from the library. Should they want to check a book out of the library, they can choose a text book or an abridged or unabridged classic novel (Charles Dickens and the like). If you are good at reading English, this is fine, but if you are not, you probably avoid the library like the plague. I fully believe, however, that everyone has an avid reader within them and that they just need the spark of a certain good “fun” book to bring it out (example: Harry Potter phenomenon). I do fear with all my heart the variety of books that I will get from these book donation places, but in the words of PCV Zach Bagley (also in Kitgum), I “don’t let them (the students, teachers, and administration) see fear in [my] eyes.”

Also, yesterday, my life skills club, counterpart, and I made our first 40L of liquid soap (it was the first chemistry experiment I have done under a mango tree, stirring with bamboo sticks, next to a hut, but definitely not the last). We have hypothesized that it will be a huge success, but we have to let the soap sit for a week before we know for certain and can start reining in the business. All in all, I greatly miss all of my lab books with exact instructions since yesterday we were getting 3 different sets of instructions and deciding to do a nice little mixture of the three (I’m sure Madam Marie Curie worked in the same way once upon a time…but of course, I hope we are more successful in the long run than she).

Other projects on the horizon: Bar Soap making with a local women’s group (I’m going to have no excuse for not being squeaky clean 24/7 with 2 sources of soap at my fingertips), World Map Mural (for next term), having the girls of my Life skills club teach how to make reusable menstrual pads to the teachers (at the end of the term) and to primary school students/local women’s groups (next term), and lastly, but not least, GLOW camp. GLOW (Girls Leading Our World) camp is happening for the first time in Uganda at the end of this term (it’s a program that focuses on girl empowerment and occurs in a lot of PC countries already—the new head of the PC wants it to spread to more countries). My counterpart and I will transport 12 girls from Kitgum/Gulu to Kampala, be counselors for the camp for about a week, and then I, after saying a few Hail Mary’s, will transport 15 back to Kitgum/Gulu.

Funniest things that I now am used to:

1) Seeing “brown” people (this is not Indian, this is basically the

color of most African Americans in America) and for a split second, thinking they are white—no joke, I do it all the time

2) About a third of the teachers at my school have a ring tone of

Obama giving a speech: “America, we cannot turn back….”—I die every time

I wish you all a bit belated Happy Halloween and an early Happy Thanksgiving. Thank you everyone who has written me (I have a stack of letters that I’ll send out as soon as this week (I’m on duty right now) is over and I’m once again allowed to leave the campus). Please know that I get a ridiculously big smile on my face every time I read a letter or email about you all (think the Grinch’s smile in “How the Grinch Stole Christmas”).

Breakdancing competition

Cucumber and okra from my garden

Drama Club Performing

This last school term ended abruptly and so I’ve been in a bit of a whirlpool of chaos for the last month: the Ministry of Education and Sports decided literally overnight, less than a week before final exams were supposed to start, to end the term a week early, forcing us to move our exam schedule up and cancel the last days of classes. Our final assembly was spent watching the drama club, which had gone to perform in front of the African Union in Kampala, perform again for us, which is just too cool (see picture). The Ministry also decided to begin the next term two weeks early. My two weeks of vacation, therefore, were entirely consumed by 2 Peace Corps in-service trainings (one week each) after which, I had to return to Kitgum and literally, hit the ground running. The first conference was in Gulu (just south of Kitgum) and involved language lessons, cooking a large Indian meal for some volunteers, and spending a full day with my language instructor and her family at their home, all culminating in an absolutely lovely birthday. Right before I left for the conference, I received a wonderful birthday package from my family and some family friends including pictures, gardening gloves, really good coffee (Uganda has a nasty habit of exporting all of its quality coffee), and of course, 2 lbs of Virginia Peanuts (you may laugh, but sharing those peanuts with me made the days of 2 volunteers in town and every person left at the school). On my actual birthday, I spent the morning at the pool (funny things like nice pools pop up in areas where a lot of foreigners come to do development work), the afternoon at a breakdancing competition and in my language instructor’s village and then evening in a local Ethiopian restaurant with some wonderful people and food and a surprise birthday cake (I felt very lucky to be living in Northern Uganda with some seriously quality people). THANK YOU to everyone who sent me messages, emails, videos, and cards. If my birthday says anything about the coming year, I think 24 is going to be a good one. The second conference was right outside of Kampala and involved technical training and the first gym I’ve been in since leaving America (quite small, but still…). After the conferences, the majority of my training group (about 20 of us) hitched up our bags and headed to the Nile River for some white water rafting. Let’s just say that the Grade 4-5.5 rapids of the river are not for the weak hearted and while I was confident in the experience of our guides, I was surprised that the only serious injury occurred: one girl chipped her tooth (this was quickly remedied by Peace Corps Medical, but definitely got the song “All I want for Christmas is my two front teeth” stuck in my head) seeing as each boat flipped over at least twice. In the morning Rafting Company’s bus was a bit delayed, causing me to miss the early bus and leaving me potentially stranded in Gulu. Thankfully, I was able to stay with a PCV couple in Gulu that night, just in time to partake in a sushi feast they happened to be making and to meet one of my fellow volunteer’s students with whom I played Sudoku the whole way. Unfortunately, I was doomed to sit by a broken window that happened to kill a little bird on the way…I guess you win some and you lose some. I arrived back in Kitgum with a long to-do list including setting and grading beginning of term exams and making 8 kilograms of peanut paste to bring along with another 8 kilograms of black beans to some volunteers who do not have access to such items the next week when I would return to Kampala for the All-Volunteer-Conference (above, you see a picture of the first 2 cucumbers from my garden...unfortunately, it didn't rain at all during the 2 weeks I was away and so those are also 2 of the last cucumbers from my garden). As I left for Kampala once again on the 8am bus, now loaded up with 16 kilograms of assorted food I realized a few things: one, for some reason everyone and their mom was leaving Kitgum that Wednesday morning causing the bus to leave a half hour early rather than the more typical hour late and leaving me to squeeze into the back row of the bus (which has enough room for 5, but of course, we fit 6 people and gives the ride out of Kitgum the flair of a rollercoaster since you spend about a third of the time airborne as the potholes and bumps throw you out of your seat---aka, middle school bus rider’s dream come true). The security woman at the hotel outside of Kampala loved the fact that I, like a good mother visiting her child at boarding school, came loaded with food, including carrying my peanut paste in a jerry can (this is a very village aka non-Kampala thing to do…but the good thing was that no one in Kampala looked at me that day and expected me to have any money to give them—they may have been searching their pockets to give me money instead). The All-Volunteer’s conference was wonderful and I came away with a lot of new ideas and resources which bring me to the many eggs that are in my basket right now. I am awaiting 20 lbs of novels from a US group called Bookaid to help the English Department improve the students’ composition grades (as of now they are failing and English is crucial for a student to continue to the Advanced Level). This shipment may be followed by 800 more novels…but that is still up in the air… Also, another female teacher and I are starting a Life Skills Club, addressing issues like hygiene, HIV/AIDS, early pregnancy, and girl empowerment. The first official meeting is on Sunday, during which we will be making reusable menstrual pads…we’ll see how this goes…a little shy of 200 girls from Senior 1 and Senior 2 have signed up…oi. At the end of the term, the club will host a Music, Dance, and Drama event and 5 girls will accompany me and my counterpart to the first annual Camp GLOW in Uganda, which is a camp for girl empowerment that PC volunteers have implemented all over the world. Tomorrow is the first of the schools regular debates (we’re going to try for every other week). The topic is “Should school in Uganda be compulsory?” There are a few more things that are in the works, but I’ll leave those to a later time. Until then, I hope all is well. It's raining almost everyday here, including torrential storms that pounded so hard and so loud on the tin roof of my classrooms during 2 classes on Monday that teaching was impossible (my Senior 1 math class doesn't have glass on the windows so the entire class and I were bundled together on one side of the room to stay dry, yelling at each other to communicate...I gotta tell you, sometimes life is a trip). Maybe one of these days I’ll learn to update my blog more regularly so that it’s not a novel every time.

Update on my hut roommate: the Ugandan Raven (rat from the toilet) is dead and buried (and just for good measure, I poured some Clorox over the grave), but unfortunately, his bushy-tailed rat cousin has replaced him in the rafters and has a bit more of a vicious attitude (I have now established 2 allies in this battle against rodents: a woman in the market who sells me the little fish and another at the pharmacy who sells me the poison and I even know a choice Acholi phrase: Amito matek ka neko oyo (I want very much to kill a rat)). Since I last wrote, I experience a week of terrible sickness from a bacterial infection in the intestine (if you’re medically inclined and want more details, feel free to email me, but for now, children might be reading this blog and I don’t want to give them nightmares). This lovely experience was followed a week of being on duty. Each week, three teachers are on duty which means that they are solely in charge of the school: discipline, general cleaning, uniforms, greeting visitors some of whom don’t speak any English… So for a week, I spent my days calling delinquent girls out of classes to clean and do landscaping as I stood there supervising…did I mention that we don’t have any grounds or cleaning staff here? so every girl has to do her part and believe me, they don’t enjoy it. In between these two unexciting weeks my school hosted a track and field championship meet for all the schools in the surrounding area. I dragged myself out of sickbed to go and see our awesome girls totally kick butt and win first place (see picture of team, the coaches, my head teacher and her deputy)! However, the track meet itself was a tribute to the crazy variety of clothes you can find in the markets here and what unusual fashion trends evolve from this variety. The girls mainly ran in short skirts, but on top they’d be wearing something like a tank top or halter top. The boys though took the cake: in women’s bathing suits, speedos, underwear, basketball shorts, spandex unis…and of course most everyone was running barefoot…I feel like no track and field event is complete without such a fashion show. Meanwhile, my exercise consists of digging, weeding, biking to town on my fancy new bike (see picture and note that the brand is Phoenix—totally unintentional purchase, because I planned to get a bike called “Kal amara” or “My husband loves me (and so he bought me this bike),” but they didn’t have it…much like how I don’t have a husband—those of you who know my from College know that I gained a strong appreciation for Phoenixes through my involvement in a tutoring/mentoring group called Project Phoenix, and so truly, I believe that buying this bike was fate), play sword fighting with the local children (I’m so close to asking them to call me Zorro…but with no “z” in the alphabet, I wonder how it will work out), and chasing after trespassing goats, roosters, and chicken with a machete (I had my revenge on the chicken race yesterday…I’ll go into more detail in a bit). During the World Cup, I spent almost every evening until about 1130pm watching the games with the some of the staff in the staffroom with the exception of the Ghana-American game when I felt that for my own safety, I’d best find other Americans in town to watch on a big screen in town (safety in numbers…)—unfortunately, we were still greatly outnumbered by Ugandans and when Ghana won…we sat there a bit saddened surrounded by jumping and screaming Ugandans. Unfortunately, I have never seen so many hearts break at once as when Ghana later lost, but the excitement of the finals helped each of us get over it and choose a new team to root for (in the blog is a picture of the staffroom at half-time for the final match). I truly recommend being in a country that is a bit obsessed with soccer during the World Cup: every play, call, and goal has an emotional and loud response that I like can only be matched by the best and brightest sports bars of America. I reunited with the Americans (3 Peace Corps volunteers and some IRC interns--see picture, the guys are PC, the girls are IRC) in town for a 4th of July dinner party, complete with pizza, mac and cheese (there’s a severe lack of cheese in Uganda compared to America so we decided to go big or go home), boxed wine, anthem singing, red, white, and blue sugar cookies and a watermelon from the market. I spent much of the night explaining to the Ugandans present why some of those present were getting so emotional about certain Bruce Springsteen songs etc., trying my best to be a good cultural ambassador. I brought the celebration home the next day in the staff room and we all bonded over Uganda and America’s common fight against English rule (although for the Ugandans, gaining independence was a peaceful and highly ceremonial event). Other notable events include being told “Aber, there’s a (white) man who is asking for you” to which I responded “My goodness, let me call my mother,” the first of hopefully many debate events at the school, and the acquiring of a gas regulator so that my hut doesn’t burst into flames…which brings me to my first Uganda Hut Dinner Party. Celebrating my inner Indian identity, I invited some Americans and Ugandans over for a big Indian meal including curry, lentils, chickpeas, naan, devil’s food cake (from scratch) and chicken…Two chickens were kindly delivered to me by a motorcycling friend yesterday morning and as I said earlier, proved to be my revenge on the flock of chickens here who believe they own my hut and garden (let’s just say they are keeping their distance now)—if you’re a veggie, small child, or a bit skwimish, please skip the next 3 sentences. To those of you who have not killed, plucked, and deboned live chickens before, I will not give you details, I’ll just say that I took them out back (gangster movie style) and then opened the bible to ask forgiveness for breaking the commandment “Thou shall not kill.” Let’s just say I felt a sudden strong connection to Lady Macbeth and her “Out damn spot” speech. I’ve never been closer to becoming a vegetarian and now have an immense amount of respect for poultry farmers and love for packages of boneless and skinless chicken breasts at your local grocery store. The dinner was an immense success and made having to wake up this morning at 5am to grade math homework by light of a kerosene lamp for the 70 girls I was to teach at 8am totally worth it. I thought I would tell you a little bit about the class that I have pictured (I’ll upload pictures of my other classes in later blogs). This is my Senior 2 Biology class and they are what I’d like to call a hoot (very energetic and improving so much on their exams as we go on!). I meet with these 70 or so lovely ladies twice a week and each day I have a little theme to help them do better and to start thinking outside the box a bit. On Mondays, we have a short quiz that is not for a grade, but instead for a prize to be awarded this coming Wednesday to the top 5 cumulative scorers and on Wednesdays, we go over a “why?” question: for instance: why can insects walk on water like Jesus? Why is the sky blue? Why do we have hiccups? (hopefully, this will eventually get them a bit excited over time about how science can explain the world around us, but for right now, it’s just a lot of fun to escape from lecturing and to have them brainstorm). On a sad note, we have lost 2 girls here at YY Okot and both were Senior 1 students (so around 13 years old)—one died from a lack of platelets in her blood stream and the other has now been dismissed because she is pregnant. Its hard to remember when surrounded by 900 laughing and happy girls, but there is a harsh reality to the limits of the Ugandan health system and health education (soon I’ll be traveling to talk to some young women about such issues because the pressure on girls to not get pregnant in order to stay in school has led to illegal and very dangerous abortion procedures). As for the recent bombings in Uganda: while I live far from Kampala and so these acts of terrorism don’t affect me directly, it is quite sad and frightening to see how it is potentially escalating, but I am quite confident that Peace Corps is at least doing its best to ensure the safety of all volunteers (thank you for your concern though). I hope all is well at home. I think of you all often and would love to hear any updates (especially now that you’ve read the novel I just wrote).

The school term started about 2 weeks ago with beginning-of-term exams and I started teaching this past Monday. Let’s just say that it’s be a bit busy around here and my responsibilities seemed to have grown exponentially during the time I’ve spent grading about 150 exams, attending staff meetings, and making syllabi and lesson plans. In the time since I wrote my last blog entry, I have acquired three night biology classes, at least two computer classes (this might increase) and have become a dorm mistress for about 120 girls (thankfully, this does not actually mean I have to live in the dorm—which consists of 60 girls crammed into a room with 3 rows of bunk beds about 2 feet apart from each other—it just means that I have to make sure they clean their room and the surrounding compound (my parents joked with me that this is all those times I was reluctant to clean my room catching up to me and kicking me in the butt)). The schedule itself is not too bad, except for Wednesday when I teach from 8am to 830pm (4 double periods/80 minute classes and 1 triple period). It’s an absolute trip to go from 70 girls in my first double to a triple period with just two girls (an advanced level class) and then back to another 70. Teaching computers is especially interesting because it’s a crammed classroom of 3 girls to a computer with all of the girls really getting experience on the computer for the first time, once a week, for 80 minutes: last year, this class only got through booting up and shutting down the computer. The staff is a fun bunch and most seem to work really hard (we are definitely understaffed). There are about three times more men than women on the staff and the ages are quite mixed, but they seem to still all get along well and are very welcoming to me (helping me with my Acholi and filling my head with such questions as “I hear that no blacks in America can get any job but manual labor, is it true? How can I transfer to be a teacher in America? I hear that it has been scientifically proven that the world will end in 2012. What do you know about the Mayans? What do you think about Obama, Hilary Clinton, Sarah Palin, Dolly Parton?....). There are a few others who don’t speak Acholi (I actually know more than them…which is quite a shocker) since they are either from Central Uganda or Northwest Uganda so some of the conversations/jokes are actually in English which makes life a bit easier. I have really lucked out with my head teacher/principal (who is my closest neighbor at about 10 feet away and spends a good amount of time with family in Kampala, but is an extremely strong and admirable woman). She has been quite supportive during my settling-in period and is a leader in the community who will be a great asset to me if/when I start working with groups outside of the school for my secondary projects (she even bought me seeds for my garden and lent me the book “Girl with a Dragon Tattoo). For those of you musically or religiously inclined, you would really enjoy spending a day on my campus. These girls are singing their praises to the Lord with drums every morning and all day on the weekends…mixed with those Xena-type yells of theirs, it really hits it home that I live in Africa.

I was told by a returned Peace Corps Volunteer that the biggest compliment that she ever received during her service was someone referring to her as a man, not a woman. Here, where women are credited with a lot of the work, I find it quite nice when people look at me and say “Here is a real Ugandan/African woman,” usually partnered with a comment like: “It’s hard to be an African woman.”

To end this entry on a funny note, I refer you all to Edgar Allen Poe’s poem “The Raven” http://www.heise.de/ix/raven/Literature/Lore/TheRaven.html.... well in my case, I heard this scratching from my bathroom the other morning at around 6am. Now, I am blessed with a flush toilet, but it is a bit tempermental (to put it lightly) so after hearing this scratching for a few minutes, I thought I'd better go check to see if there were about to be an explosion of some sort. Now, I'm a good girl and I always put down the lid of the toilet and this morning, there it was, closed with no possible way for anything to get in unless from below...but lo, I open the lid to see a large rat trying desperately to claw its way out. I had pity on his soul and used a scrubber to help him out, but then the schmuck pulled a fast one on me somewhere between the toilet and my front door and has been causing mayhem in my rafters (I fear that he has been trying to eat his way through my thatched roof which would just me no fun for me). Last night was the night that he finally wore out his welcome and I set a trap for him using horrible tasting little dried fish and a pill called Indocin, but the mystery remains: how did that rat get into my closed toilet? I even looked for an outside way in without success and have a strange fear that if (as said in Finding Nemo) "all drains lead to the Ocean" what leads to my toilet? I think this is the only time in my life that I would prefer a pit latrine.

Many of the girls have requested American Pen Pals (if you have a class that you want to connect to some Ugandan students or if you yourself have an interest, just send me an email). This is not sponsorship or anything like that, just letters.

Should you not want to communicate with Uganda Secondary students, but rather with me, please feel free to send me an update on your life via email, mail, or now by skype! (my username is heather_pasley and the reception is not amazing, but it’s possible)

Thinking about you all often.

PS. As you see in this blog entry, there are pictures of my house on the inside! Here you can see my machete, hoe, and brooms next to my desk with my exams piled on top, the bookshelf I had built with a bit of William and Mary memorabilia on the side, the nested tables I had built to complete my compact cooking space of hanging food and a temporary non-exploding stove, and finally a picture of my bed and the guest bed you would be staying on should you visit here. Please note that lining the inside of the hut are pictures of all of you which really make this place feel like home.

Life in Kitgum is pretty quiet right now so I’ve taken advantage of this lull in activity to fix up my house and get started on my garden. The house is now painted with pictures (of you all) and food hanging and newly constructed tables and bookshelf. The garden is dug and my new babies (not quite Angelina Jolie style) are planted in nursery beds: green peppers, onions, eggplant, cabbage, collards, tomatoes, groundnuts, and cucumbers. The subconscious is a funny thing by the way: I didn’t realize it until after I had finished painting, but I painted my house red, white, and blue and I now know that I cannot dig my garden as others do, I have to dig in squares in a grid system just as I did in Jamestown…talk about being a creature of habit. I am getting used to life here and while matching some names with faces is still a struggle, I think there may be a light at the end of the tunnel. My town (market, shops, other volunteers etc) is about 3km away and I have succeeded in winning the hearts of a number of people in the market aka they don’t cheat me, they know my name (Aber, not Heather…no one even tries to say Heather anymore), and they put in a little extra for free (for instance, an extra tomato or scoop of rice…truly, it’s the little things). Many other volunteers complain that there are children/adults running in and out of their homes without a care in the world (like an open house…all the time). Personally, my intruders are of a different variety: roosters, hens, chicks, and the occasional goat (the turkeys and turduckens—mixture of a turkey, duck, and chicken…not really, but that’s what they remind me of—(pictured to the right) are building up their courage as we speak). My garden makes me feel like Farmer McGregor in Peter Rabbit or Farmer Maggot in Lord of the Rings because I am constantly chasing the chickens, roosters, and especially goats away by running with them with my hoe or with a few token phrases in a variety of languages (Russian is the most successful thus far). Beginning of term exams begin on Wednesday and classes next Monday. As of now, I’m not entirely sure of my course load/schedule etc…but I do know that I am teaching one section of Secondary 1 (equivalent of like 7th grade) Math (which is 100 or so students), one section of Secondary 2 (8th grade) Biology (another 100), assisting in Secondary 5 (this is when classes are 2 or 3 students instead of 100 because everyone else either dropped out or didn’t pass the national exam they take after Secondary 4) Math, and potentially computers…hopefully this will all be sorted out in the coming week. Another thing on my “to do” list for this week is to solve the leaking gas stove problem (over the last two weeks I have been trying out my stove with some fellow teachers and an electrician, having recently acquired the tap needed to release gas from my tank to my stove—when the tap is open gas has not only been coming out of the burners, but also leaking out of the rest of the stove so when I would light the match, the burner is not the only thing that would ignite…remember that time you nearly blew up the Chemistry lab with an experiment gone wrong? Now imagine that happening about 5 times in a thatched roof hut, then 2 more times outside under a mango tree, and then 3 more times with a different stove in a classroom…I’m pretty sure I lost every hair on my hands, but thankfully nothing else). So now I’m on the prowl for a regulator for my gas tank that will solve all my problems…again, hopefully. Please send me letters, pictures, and emails about life at home! PO Box 68 Kitgum, Uganda or hrpasl@gmail.com I hope all is well!

On Wednesday April 21, 2010, I officially became a Peace Corps Volunteer. The ceremony took place at the American Ambassador’s home in Kampala (which is absolutely beautiful, so if you have any inclination towards being an ambassador, do it: it’s the Oz beyond the yellow brick road). --to the left, see my home...a bit smaller but I have a mango tree as a neighbor!

After 11 hours on the bus, I arrived in Kitgum and am currently settling into my home. My school, Y.Y. Okot has about 1000 girls, all are boarders and most left for holidays the day after I arrived. The next month will be spent readying my home, learning how to get around, meeting people, and getting ready to teach Biology and Math this next term, starting the end of May. My address is PO Box 68, Kitgum, Uganda should you care to send me anything and I’ll get to writing letters to those of you I promised soon. The president of Iran visited Kampala the other day, marking yet another step in the development of an oil field here—this is the government gearing up for the upcoming election (accompanied by the creation of 14 new districts, a nation-wide tour, and road maintenance).

Meanwhile, I am busy making my little hut a home: painting, furnishing, gardening, etc. My first full day here included a nice welcome lunch with all the teachers at my school, followed by everyone sitting around my hut and drinking beers both to welcome me and to celebrate the end of a term. Things are a bit slow here because the students are all gone, but before the last of them left, I got to attend a student church service. The service was student-run and full of music and of this high-pitched yell that women make here as an expression of joy (kind of like Xena the Warrior Princess’s war cry, but faster). The service took place in a building that used to be a place for night-commuters during the war to sleep. The school stayed open throughout the war and resembles a fortress with a 24 hour guard, tall walls, and barb wire. Let’s just say, security will not be an issue. After attending a Canadian-run conference on teaching children affected by war and the first of two nation-wide track and field meets in honor of a famous Ugandan runner from Kitgum (these are meant to be a major recruiting event for the National Team so these athletes are the crème de la crop), both at my school, I have a feeling that I’ve come to a real hotspot of activity. I am continuing to learn the Acholi language (my fellow staff and the community are bent towards helping me) and as of this morning, I have acquired a Swahili teacher….hopefully I won’t get confused, become the tower of Babel, and need to be smote down by God… As always, my thoughts and prayers are with you all and I hope to hear from you all about how life is at home.

Training is almost over: on April 21st we are sworn in as official Peace Corps Volunteers (PCVs) and disperse to our designated sites. Which reminds me, my future site is an all girls secondary school which was originally formed for child mother (girls who were abducted by the LRA and made into “wives” of the soldiers) in Kitgum District (about 3 km outside of Kitgum town)—one of the northern-most districts in Uganda (link to map of Uganda). There are 2 volunteers doing Community Health and Economic Development in Kitgum town and another science teacher from my training group will be about 20 km away from me. Looking at the map of Uganda with all the volunteers on it, I believe I have become the northern-most volunteer…so if you want to go to Sudan….it’s only about 70 miles away. I have been also reassigned as a General Science (Biology, Physics, Chemistry) teacher rather than just a Math/Chemistry teacher. I’ll go to my site on Thursday for a quick site visit so I can find out if anything’s wrong with the site and what I need for my home (so that if I need to get it in Kampala, I can) and meet my counterpart in the school. Funny story, so my house is actually going to be a hut-house: meaning mud walls and a thatched roof, but word on the street is that it also has windows and running water—it was built by a volunteer (not PC) who was working at or near the school and decided that he/she was tired of sleeping in a classroom so I am excited to see and live in a Northern Ugandan tradition house with a bit of western spice.

Three weeks ago, I went to stay with Hellen, a volunteer in Lira for two weeks (Lira is just south of the Acholi region, was part of the war for the last two years—the 20 year war is said to have gotten more violent towards the end—and they speak Lango which is similar to Acholi, but just different enough to make my head spin). The purpose of the visit in addition to language practice, was to observe Ugandan classrooms, to get some more practice teaching, and to learn from a volunteer (the two of us who stayed with Hellen really lucked out, she has a wonderful school, is a veteran teacher with a wealth of knowledge and has organized some amazing programs—including two events while we were there)—let’s just say, she set the bar high, but staying with her has helped us a lot on the way to being successful volunteers. The first weekend I was up there, I went to Gulu (which is in Acholi region) for a conference on the psychological aftermath of the war in the north. About ¾ of the PC volunteers currently serving in the North and the senior staff of PC Uganda (this is a pretty big deal seeing as Gulu is not exactly close to Kampala) attended the conference which was led by Sister Margaret, a nun native to Gulu and trained in counseling who has worked a lot with child soldiers and Benjamin Porter, who specializes in post-trauma counseling. They reviewed the history of the conflict and discussed the statistics (which were staggeringly high) and symptoms of Post-Traumatic-Stress-Disorder, Depression, and Acoholism in addition to relating scenarios they had incountered and tips for how we can process the emotional stress that comes with living in a post-war environment. It’s definitely a very impressive group of volunteers up north right now and so I’m happy that I will have a good support system and be surrounded by wonderful resources.

Uganda has had a lot of activity in the last couple of weeks. Two and a half weeks ago, the Kasumbi Tombs (the burial place of 4 Bugunda/Central Uganda Kings and a global cultural site) were burned down. When President Musevini tried to visit the site, he met a riot of people and his gaurds fired on the crowd, killing 2. Later, 3 more were trampled during prayers around the Tombs. This is quite a blow to the Bugunda people because their monarchy is a very precious part of their culture. It’s also unsettling for a country that is already strongly divided by tribal affiliations and languages and that has heated election in just one year (Musevini will now be running for his 6th term as president, having amended the constitution to do away with the 3 term limit). So just like -----

Another lesson learned: So the name “Heather” does not exist in any way, shape, or form here. I may be having the greatest conversation in the world, but when I tell people my name, their faces go blank and they just say “okay” and move on (sometimes literally walking away). The brave few actually attempt to pronounce this foreign name , but the closest people have gotten to it is a mixture of “either” and “ether” with a strained look on their face. And so, the moral of the story is that every person should go to a priest/rabbi/library before they go to Africa and pick out a Christian name. For me, I opened the Bible and decided that Esther was the closest. So as of now, I have 7 names: Esther (my go-to holy name), Aber (“the good one” or “one who is good” in Acholi), Muzungu (foreigner/traveler in the South), Muno (foreigner/traveler in the North), Heather/Edder/Either/Ether, Randolph (not a chance in the world that this is better than Heather), and Pasley (this might still be a winner b/c there’s a load of paisley in the fabric designs here). If you cannot relate to this story again or don’t see the “funniness” about it, please go to your nearest library and check out “Tiki-Tiki-Tambo-No-Sorambo….” or go to an authentic foreign restaurant and try to pronounce the dish you’d like to eat…in this case, bring a friend to take a picture of your face when you’re trying to pronounce the dish’s name and you’ll see a look I now know better than my own face.

I hope all is well! Thank you for all the emails! I soon will have internet! So the skype option is on the horizon! You are all in my daily thoughts and prayers.

About 19 hours in the sky and 7 hours in various airports later, I arrived in Uganda. “Surreal” does not even come close to explain my first evening in Uganda. A rope line of our trainers and country director and a moonlit bus ride through Entebbe to Laweza (about 15 km outside of Kampala) led us to our first Ugandan meal, a few welcome speeches, and finally to our beds. Training at Laweza (a Protestant Conference Center where we spent our first few days) consisted of cross-cultural lessons, a crash course in Luganda (the language spoken in Central Uganda), security briefs, morning yoga routines, bird and monkey watching, starchy food, the last hot showers we will have for a long time, and an absolutely insane trip to the capitol, Kampala. In short, it was a busy couple of days. The streets and motor vehicles of Kampala make those of NYC look like child’s play—for the taxi and boda boda drivers, where there’s a will, there’s a way and little things like pedestrians, shops, other vehicles, and doors falling off the hinge should get in the way. Kampala introduced us to two other funny things about Uganda: no street signs and the word “muzungu.” “Muzungu” means foreigner/traveler and is the name called out to every volunteer wherever we go. Now that I have moved in with my host family in the village Kisimbiri (which is also near Kampala in the district Wokiso), the soundtrack to my 5K walk to classes is a chorus of children (50% of Uganda’s population is under 15 years old) yelling out “Muzungu!”

My host family is a small family (only 3 children) and has been wonderful to me: in addition to expanding my Lunganda vocabulary, they’ve helped me learn how to survive/cook/clean in Uganda. After settling into our lessons in Wokiso, I have become familiar with showering with a bucket, pit latrines, power outages, “Ugandan time” (I have been told that Ugandans keep time by the crow of the rooster and so, I am on time for a 7am meeting even if I don’t get there until 759am b/c it’s still in the 1st hour of daylight and if I don’t get there until 1pm or so, it’s ok), boiling all my water, washing clothes and dishes by hand with basins, and red mud and dirt.

Those of you who have seen me during or after my field work know that I have a lot in common with the Peanuts Character, Pig Pen…now that my skin color is about 50 shades lighter than that of most everyone else, dirt/mud shows up on my skin a lot better comparatively and so my pseudonym has been taken to the extreme.

Wonderful things about Uganda:

Everyone here greets everyone and hospitality is crucial—business cannot take place without a greeting and the formal greeting asks about how you spent the night/day, thanks you for your general work, and asks about your family.

Peace Corps here has a real family dynamic to it. The country leader is an absolutely inspirational figure and present volunteers are coming every week to speak to our training group.

When it is sunny, the bird calls fill the air and complement the warm air and when it is rainy, it is not cold.

About the next two years:

I now know what I will be teaching:

Chemistry and Math (Potentially Biology as well…just to spice things up)

AND

I know where I will be teaching:

Acholi Region or in layman’s terms the North/Northwest.

In our first security briefing, we learned that the Lord’s Resistance Army has been pushed well into the DRC and that it is stable up there (the NW is where Invisible Children was filmed). A year ago, they started sending volunteers up there and I will be 1 of 5 going to join the 13 already up there. The language is beautiful and my language teacher is wonderful so while the assignment was a surprise, I could not be happier. I will be going to one of 4 regions: Gulu, Adjumani, Kitgum, and Pader.

I miss you all and think of each of you often. I hope all is well. An ki mar (“I with love” in Acholi)

I leave for Uganda tomorrow at 1030 am (weather permitting...knock on wood).

As some of you know, this past week has been consumed by a run-in with the State Department and a blizzard so my impending departure is nothing short of a minor miracle. From these experiences, I have learned two important lessons that I'd like to share with you:

Lesson 1: No news is good news

Last Tuesday, Peace Corps' travel agency contacted me for the first time since I sent in my forms two months earlier to inform me that my passports (both government-issued and personal) had been sent to Nairobi, Kenya. After confirming that there was no logical reason to send my passports to Kenya, the travel agent assured me that he would check with the State Department and that I should not stress because he was already stressed enough for the both of us. The State Department saved the day (along with the trusty travel agent)! It issued a new government passport for me, arranged for my reunion with my personal passport in Uganda and so remedied what it referred to as a "freak accident."

Lesson 2: The Peace Corps is very similar to the USPS

"Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds." Aka as long as it doesn't snow too much tonight, I'll be on that plane tomorrow.

All in all, I am incredibly excited and look forward to sharing this experience with you all.