How does one come back to America?

What do you do?

I realize what priveledge we have, and how we do not use it at all.

As Americans, we have all the power in the world. Literally. As voting citizens in the eminent democratic world power, we have the power in our hands to change the world.

I sat outside of Whole Foods in Dallas waiting on my Dad to finish shopping, and I watched the people go by. (I mean, in all honesty, first impression back from Nepal, is "Holy hell, everyone looks so white and tall!") But, seriously, I watched them with their baby strollers, or carts full of organically-grown, free range, hand picked, fair trade, green certified, whatever produce. At the same time, I had just tried to buy a magazine from inside. Thinking I would invest in a Newsweek or Economist or New York Times for the ride from Dallas to Oklahoma, where my father lives. Out of all the magazines in Whole Foods, all they had was People, US Weekly, "How to get skinny quick."

These people who hold all the power, myself definitely not excluded from this, allow themselves to be buried in asinine, mindless jibber about "Britney's new drug habit" or something?

Why do we not look more deeply, or look at all, into what is going on in the outside world. In meeting people from different nationalities, I think Americans may be the only ones who have such a focus on domestic issues. We, as a people, know nothing about other countries even though they know so much about us, and each other. Even citizens from other first-world countries like Europe have a global sense that far trumps ours.

And the food we throw away. This really incenses me. And, Americans are fat because we do not have hunger, true hunger in our country... In fact, we have food so plentiful that eating too much has become a disease, a common disease. Even among our very poor are people with obesity, clearly very wealthy by the standards of the rest of the world.

But, it is good to be home. This is my country. I am American. I fit in here, in this culture more than any other in the world. I also have tremendous faith in this culture. And, now that I'm back I can finally understand what the hell people are saying to me. Beautiful.

It is good to be home, I just struggle.

I am in my favorite airport in the world, totally kidding. I am not so in love with Hong Kong.

I kind of just ran around with Arya and Vivek for my last 2 or 3 days. I asked for their help shopping (dealing with the shopkeepers) and checking out of my hotel and fixing my airline ticket and checking luggage etc.

I can't believe I am gone. Weird. I am sad and it seems really surreal. Better now that I'm in Hong Kong, but I was so so SO sad last night at the Kathmandu airport. I am exhausted at the moment, too tired to write much. I love that city. Very much. It is so strange, and so frustrating at times. Actually, at times I wanted to kill it and everything in it, just get things over with and set the whole damn thing on fire. But, truth be told, I love that city. Absolutely love it. And Asia seems so very different than the other places I have traveled, like Europe and Central America. Kathmandu is a little like an "Austin" of Asia. It's an international smelting pot, as a small port between China/Tibet and India, heavily influenced by both. This added with the influence of trekkers, and other white people from Europe or South America seeking their luck with the Himalayas, accounts for a very eclectic spot. It's also Asian, without the heavy emphasis on communism (like China) or strict Islam (like Pakistan). Hinduism lends the place a very liberal air... I mean very explicit tantric scenes are openly displayed on even the most holy temples.

-by the way, I was wrong before about the meaning of the word "Himalaya." Not mountain but Hima = snow or ice, and laya = abode or home.

Oh, hahahaha, one of my friends made a good point before I left saying, "Look around, everyone here is so absolutely chilled out. They just sit around all day, so laid back. How in the hell is our country ever going to develop?"

Gohonopokhari or "diamond pool"

Produce vendor on his traveling office.

Lainchour

Japanese bath in Lazimpat

Club Fire

Dinner with mom

Talking about Talbot and how excited I am to see him. I went on and on about Talbot, of course, being my "favorite." They cannot pronounce his name and call him Tablet or Tabloid, which I thought was pretty hysterical.

Last minute errands and breakfast.

Thamel

View of central Lainchour from my balcony. It allows for perfect observation of neighborhood life. The open area in the middle is the neighborhood common space and has recently- I mean in the past few days- been converted to some sort of oversized badminton/ undersized tennis court. Communal recreation.

My room is on the 4th floor, the one covered in this view by trees. Maoist graffiti on the building to the right.

Leaving guest house for the airport.

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Last post before I leave in a few hours. Very sad and strange feeling. I just bought a necklace that's pretty cool and reminds me of Nepal. Good.

I don't know what to think.

Catch you on the flip side I guess.

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I fly home tomorrow.

Kathmandu is a strange city, sometimes I hate it, no, absolutely loath it. It's filthy. The people are conniving. I don't fit in the culture. But, at the same time, I guess there have been times when I really love this city also. When, for an instant, I actually "get it" and feel confident and comfortable on my own.

I think now that my time is ending, I hate the city. Perhaps because I love it and I feel hurt that now we must "break up" hhaha.

I ducked out of all engagements this morning, dropped off one last load of laundry, and had lunch by myself in a cafe in the very back of a bookstore. It was a welcome quiet from the streets where people from all sides speak at you constantly. Rickshaw drivers say, "rrricksaw?," cab drivers say, "taxiii madam?," drug dealers creep up behind your back and purr "meeeruijuaaana?" or "hashish, didi?" (hash, sister?) All this mixed with shopkeepers relentlessly trying to entice white people into their shops, offering items for four times the actual cost.

While I was in the bookstore, I bought the book The Snow Leopard, which documents an exploration into the Himalayas to find an elusive white leopard. I think it also has some sort of an emphasis on personal development. In reading a little bit, I was struck by one comment by the author, "Yet in Varanasi there is hope of life that has been abandoned in such cities as Calcutta, which seems resigned to the dead and dying in its gutters. Shiva dances in the spicy foods, in the exhilarated bells of the swarming bicycles, the angry bus horns, the chatter of the temple monkeys, the vermillion tikka dot on the women's foreheads, even in the scent of charred flesh that pervades the ghats. The people smile - that is the greatest miracle of all."

I was impressed with his ability to capture so much of Kathmandu in two sentences.

Another instance of eloquency towards this complicated city was by an American girl about a month ago. She was leaving the next day, and someone asked her to sum up her experience in Nepal in one or two sentences. (She was actually really delightful, my age, from Idaho, had been here for a summer trip also). At first I groaned at her response, thinking it was cheesy and too, I don't know, quasi-philosophical or something. But, it stuck with me, and now I am reminded of what she said. It was, "Nepal is full of beauty and full of filth. But, at the same time it is very pure." I still am not quite sure how I feel about that, but for whatever reason, I have not forgotten it.

So, one night left, and then home home home. I am sad, and just feel like I am in a strange shock, or state of limbo - this could also partly be due to a very intense and lingering hangover from last night. (Caroline, oohAAHooh) Now, I will pack, buy a few scarves, and maybe walk around a bit to feel the city one last time on my own.

I may finally punch on of the shopkeepers, just for good measure and payback for all their talking at me all summer. We shall see.

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I think I am going to have to skip going to Chitwan, which sucks, but it would be a logistical nightmare. The strikes and monsoon complicate the matter alot. So, I am definitely going to the Zoo, or somewhere so that I can get on an elephant and ride around. Seriously.

I leave the day after tomorrow, around 10:30 pm. Leaving will be strange, but I feel like it is time.

I don't have very much to write, I have just been hanging out with friends, and doing a lot of shopping for the past few days. They are having a going away party tonight in one of their restaurants, which sounds like some fun.

OH, actually, one interesting thing is that today on this side of the world is a solar eclipse. I do not know if it is at home also, but apparently this is the first time in 95 years that a solar eclipse has happened here. There is a national holiday here, so no offices are open. I actually wanted to go to the zoo today, to try to get on an elephant, but it also is closed for the day. I have gathered that eclipses are very sacred in the hindu religion. They do not allow themselves to work today, nor are they allowed to eat from, 4:30 to 6 pm... the height of the eclipse. The digestive system will go totally wrong. And, you must stay inside during those hours, and do "pujah" or worship. Some of my friends are actually very concerned about my American self not correctly observing the eclipse that they have mandated that I meet them during those times (Jill, are you laughing.. can't you just hear it? hahaha) to ensure that I am properly equipped to deal with this holy astronomical happening.

Actually, I have not looked it up on the internet, but is this the same kind of eclipse that we had at home about 15 years ago? I remember being at grandma grace's...

So, for now, lunch and a nap. Maybe some cool pics tomorrow from the eclipse and the party tonight.

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I wish I had my camera.

The country has gone into rigors over a speech the Vice President made four days ago. While we were in Jomsom, the Constituent Assembly elected a new president and vice president. The Vice President gave his acceptance speech in Hindi, the language of the Indians, and not in Nepali. Nepali people see this as a huge insult because the person chosen to lead them does not acknowledge their nationality. The situation becomes more interesting in that Nepal is a geographically trapped between these two up-and-coming world giants, without the population or developing industry of either of them. Thus, Nepal is forced to depend either on itself for products, or turn to India or China, as Nepal cannot import items by sea (landlocked) or air (yea right, too expensive). As the Himalayas lay between China and Nepal, the only option for imports is to traffic them across the Indian border - through places like Biratnangar.

In their legislative branch - the Constituent Assembly - the two main parties are the Maoists and the Nepal Party of Congress. As the Maoists have links with China from communism and Mao Ze Dong, India has jumped to support the NPC to keep their foothold in Nepal, especially since the Maoists won the general election in April.

SO, apparently, the president was supposed to be the leader of the Maoists, "Prachendra," but at the last minute, in a very lose race, votes changes to tip the scale and elect representatives from the NPC into office. THEN the vice president gave his acceptance speech in the language of the Indians, Hindi, making the situation of their Indian backing even more apparent to the public. (idiot) But, I think he did this to appease and impress the Indian government. Like us and Mexico, sort of. They should make sure they are on good terms with us, or we could potentially make their lives miserable, but we do not necessarily neeed to show them that same respect.

One specific instance of Indian control is the petrol situation. There is literally NOT ENOUGH fuel in Nepal for the demand. This is not like at home where fuel just gets really expensive. Yes, it's expensive, but nonetheless, it is there. In Nepal people simply cannot get petroleum unless India supplies it. This means that the infrastructure reaches a standstill at times. I mean, try to imagine going to the Exxon station and there not being fuel in the pumps... forget the high prices it is NOT AVAILABLE.

So, in protest of the Nepali government admitting to being stooges of India, the students and youth have risen up. The riots have very noticeably escalated. I cannot wait to show you pictures. Jill got caught up in them yesterday, a really big riot in Ratnapark, thousands of people. I am heartbroken I missed it. Luckily, I am sure there will be others.

Anyways, the students have gone up into riots, chanting in the streets, burning tires, burning effigies of the Vie President, and the rocks they throw at everything is amazing. There are broken glass and burned tires and brokwn bricks littering the streets. My neighborhood is a hotbed for this activism because there are several Colleges in the area... which house and produce the instigators and participants in these Les Miserables -like rallies. It's like in Sewanee if Lainchour Marg was University Avenue, I would be living at SAE or Fowler. Impressive.

It is really like a scene out of Les Miserables. I know saying that highly romanticizes the situation, but I am really intrigued just the same. These young boy students fighting the government for causes like patriotism and justice and liberty. It really really gives me goosebumps. I guess it just goes along with my serious desire to be a hero, and jealousy that these boys get to do things like that.

- Robel laughed pretty hard at that one -

I am awed, but Arya and Vivek are only marginally impressed. They, along with many Nepalis see these rioters as immature and unprepared. They point out that these people want a new and better government, a new and better Nepal, yet they use destruction to achieve their ends. They are physically damaging the same infrastructure they are asking the government to build. So, I don't know. I guess they could learn better activism tactics, but they look heroic from a distance.

Robel is interested from the standpoint of his job, but he talks about how blase even these are in comparison with the Maoist rebellions just 9 months ago - before they were disarmed. It makes me sad that I missed everything before, but I know that probably would not have been an ideal situation in which to be.

I found my camera charger finally, so I am going to try to get pictures in the next few days. I might go to Chitwan tomorrow for a day or two though. It is a huge tropical Terai jungle, part of which is a national park, in southern Nepal, on the Indian border. I am determined to ride an elephant before I leave, and hopefully see some tigers or rhinos or something too. I think Chitwan is famous for giant leeches in this season. Well, bring it on, I am DETERMINED to ride an elephant before I leave Nepal!

Oh, and I turned in the final draft of my project yesterday. Done!

Mom left two nights ago, and Jill just left today, so I am alone again with my thoughts in this strange land with these strange people. Such fun though.

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My mom and Jill arrived Sunday, and it's been quite a mix of stuff I have already done, with stuff that's pretty new. We left for Pokhara on Tuesday, watching the sunrise at Sarangkot - the famous overlook to the Annapurnas. Unfortunately the monsoon was too heavy this time to get a view of them.

Sunrise from Sarangkot

Limestone cave in Pokhara

Buddhist monastery in Pokhara. Lots of Tibetan refugees.

Thursday morning we flew to Jomsom, which is on the other side of the Himalayan belt, the Tibetan side. That afternoon Mom and I and our guide hiked to Kagbeni, then the next day, Wednesday, we continued on to Muktinath - an elevation gain of over 3,000 ft in one day. Intense. Muktinath is a little over 11,000 ft in elevation. One impressive aspect of Muktinath is that even at 11,000 ft (which is a very good-sized Rocky Mountain summit) we were still only in the "hills." The "mountains" here are not even considered "mountains" until they pass 17,000 ft (which is higher than the Grand Teton in Wyoming).

Muktinath also has one of the most sacred Hindu / Buddhist temples in Asia, apparently. Many Indians were there on a pilgrimage for somehow we visited on the same day as some very sacred holiday. Indians say: "Bambuleyy," Nepalis say: "Namaste," Tibetans say "Thasitire," and I say: "Heeyyyy." Again, quite the ethnic mix.

Sacred yak-butter candles.

Tibetan yaks

So, while we were in Jomsom and above we were in Mustang (pronounced Moose-taaang, not like the horse mustang), which is technically the "Forbidden Kingdom of Mustang" - a portion of Tibet absorbed by Nepal but that still has its own Tibetan King. As Mustang is on the other side of the Himalayas, it looks a lot like Tibet, and is populated by Tibetan people with Tibetan cultures, etc. Very different than the Nepali Kathmandu / Pokara or the Indian - like Biratnagar.

But, since we were on the other side of the Himalayas we were in the "raincloud." The moutains block all moisture coming north from India, thus as much as lower Nepal is a tropical jungle, Mustang is a veritable desert, convenient for Himalayan travel at this time of year.

Mom's shoes fell apart about an hour outside of Jomsom, so I gave her my boots and I went the whole way in Chacos (sandals). It was fine because we did not get up into snow, but I tore up my foot pretty badly as we were approaching Jomsom again on the last day. We had to cross this raging torrent of a river that was completely black water from the shaley soil. I mean, the water was black from the soil, not pollution as is the case here in KTM. Anyways, the water was frigid and I think my muscles cramped and when forced to stretch, they just tore.

Entrance to Muktinath, in which a natural gas flame burns constantly "straight from the earth." I was skeptical at first, but geologically it makes sense that there is till outgassing in this geologically young area. We saw the flame, which was neat, but I was much more impressed by the plethora of natural springs.

Not to be heady, but crazy sick geological folding revealed in Mustang from the great Himalayan deformation. This cliff is about 500 ft tall, half the size of the Cumberland Plateau in one sheer cliff. Seriously sick.

View of Jharkot, the town in the foreground, from Muktinath above. I was worn out by the time we reached Jharkot. Seriously. I did not realize then that we still had more than 600 ft to climb to get to Muktinath, the town, and then another 100 or so to get up to the temple!

Arid Moose-tang.

After a shower in Kagbeni playing with a Tibetan kitten. And, you would just never guess that they even act the same here as they do at home... (constantly reminded here that people are just people no matter where they are from, just as cats are cats no matter where they are from)

Intimate Buddhist monastery in Kagbeni, you can see their prayer Thangka in the background.

Buddhist prayers carved into rocks. Very large in scale.

Dhauligiri earlier in the day

Nilgiri at sunset from Muktinath

At our highest, around 11,100 we were coming out of the rainshadow and beginning to see more vegetation.

On the way from Muktinath back to Jomsom. Whole descent in one day. Pre-messed up foot, but check out my chacos.

Tibetan weaver

We ended up getting stuck in Jomsom for another few days because the monsoon was making travel through the mountain pass impossible. After possibly facing a forced extended stay in Jomsom from no flights, I was brutally bored and thoroughly sad. We finally chartered a helicopter, which came through the weather on Tuesday, after 2 days delay that seemed like weeks. Jomsom, with probably no more than 200 permanent residents, most of which are Tibetan is not exactly a hip destination. It was breathtaking and wonderful, I was just ready to get home. There are no western tourists at this time of year because of the heavy monsoon so the town was like one of those old western movies in which the dust rolling through is the only thing that happens from day to day. We sat for like 8 hours each day on the steps of our hotel - waiting for something to happen with the weather - and watched processions of yaks and donkeys.

Our hostess drying apricots in Jomsom.

Literally, documented in the "Eco-Museum" in Jomsom.

Traffic in Jomsom

View of KTM and Bagmati River from the helicopter.

I am not working that much right now, almost done with my project so I have some time to spend with friends here and mom before I leave. She was supposed to leave tomorrow, but extended the stay until Sunday to finish some things she wanted to do, shopping for a museum, etc. It has been fun for her to meet some of my Nepali buddies, and obviously they were very excited also.

I graciously volunteered to guide her to the Cathay Pacific airline office yesterday to change her ticket... obviously my hidden agenda was on the way home, shopping!! I have finally found the "Park Avenue" of KTM, which has lots of western-looking clothes, "Durbar Marg." I got a huge gold purse, and gold-beaded shoes. I think I have become somewhat gaudy in my old age... or maybe it's just the asian influence (one too many bowls of noodles and women in saris).

One really cool thing about my mom and Jill being here is that in showing them around, I realize that I know this area much better than I thought. They have provided - among lots of things - a mirror in which I can see a reflection of myself as I am in this place. I don't really know how to say this in a way that makes sense, I mean I am the same person pretty much, but it's like looking at myself as I am after 2 months here from the eyes of how I was before I traveled here and had these experiences.

More in picasa web

Mexican food!

It took all three of us almost 8 hours to plan Mom's and my trip into the mountains to trek.

Buddhist flag high above the valley. Jungle in the background.

View south as the late-afternoon monsoon rolls into the valley.

Solar water heaters. Self-sustaining. They work as well as those at home, and once they are installed there is no extra cost for rest of their lifetime.

In the queue to get yak cheese from the Government Dairy Development Center. the "DDC". The yak cheese was pretty foul by the way, but the chocolate ice cream from the same place was good - I guess it also came from yak milk though?

Before we left earlier yesterday afternoon. Some Nepali call Kathmandu the "zoo." They say, why should you visit the zoo, when you can just walk around the streets? Soccer enthusiasts came to watch a game on this field (to the right) and brought their dinner while it was still alive. Goats, sheep, cows, a few dogs...

We drove into the mountains from Kathmandu. It takes a long time to get out of the city, but once we did it was like another world. Went way up to Kokenai. It was so green, split between wild jungle and terraced agriculture, like rice or lentils.

Geometric rice paddies. They hug the contours of the terrain.. super utilitarian.

They call these the "hills." Such a serious understatement, but I can't convey their sheer size in a picture. Imagine British Columbia, then think bigger, then covered with agriculture or tropical jungle. Shrouded in fog.

Land dissappearing into jungle... I really really want to see one of these tigers.

Fog

Cottage up in the jungle, right above where we stopped to eat. Cut from local stone, thatched roof.

This picture would have been amazing if the resolution was a little better. The big bulky thing in the middle is actually a farmer carrying down a huge load of rice, corn, and some other green stuff that blends in perfectly with the vegetation on the hill. It looked like the walking trees in the Chronicles of Narnia.

Dinner. Fresh rainbow trout from this fishery on the side of the mountain. These people found a way for about no cost to raise really rare trout... Trout require fast running cold water all the time, or they die. So these people built 4 or 5 tiered holding pools through which part of the fast, cold mountain stream runs. Impressed.

Built into the side of the mountain.

Fish! They caught one and cooked it - whole - right in front of us. Then served it in sections.. tail, head, body. I opted for the body, the part without eyes or other appendages. It was great fish though.

Waterfall

Moon in Kokenai

Why are you fools taking pictures of me?

Cool bar.

Paper, Rock, Scissors about who has a cooler country, Eritrea, Germany, US, Russia, or Nepal. (Still in my very patriotic stage from the night before)

I explained how, really, even though Eritrea had to deal with Ethiopia's next door problems, seriously, did you hear and the French and Indian War?

Beautiful. Reminds me of our house on Melissa. I decided it will be the flower for year 22.

Ok, so birthday continued. The night of the 4th I went to Thamel to meet up with friends, armed with glowsticks and high hopes for the evening (I worked all day during the 4th). I learned there was some sort of surprise planned... kind of being a wet rag, I insisted to know where we were going because who knows what sort of things a Nepali "surprise" could be. Nothing worked, so I ended up hopping in a car going "somewhere fun." We ended up at the Phillip Morris Country Director for Nepal's intimate evening dinner party (needless to say, had a few Marlboros). Sounds pretty cool, right?

I was SO nervous about being just a "white girl," though. Nepali ladies can be very wary of western women, and as a whole, they are a very frank people. I just KNEW I was going to say something, or be too forward, or upset something, or eat too much, or too little... I was terribly nervous.

One thing I keep feeling here though, is that after all these outrageous and sometimes incredibly intimidating experiences, what could possibly seem worse or more uncomfortable by the time I get back to America?... I mean walking into the Phi House at Sewanee too early on Thursday night will never quite seem the same.

Anyways, I think my only faux pas - as far as I could figure out later, I am sure I committed several more - was drinking whisky instead of wine (whisky = man drink, wine = lady drink) and smoking cigarettes (again, cigarette = man smoke, and black-n-mild things with tips -hahaha, seriously, = lady smoke). In my defense, this was what I was served.

I ended up talking with the head of the household, the Phillip Morris man for most of the evening. He spoke wonderful English explaining fascinating perspectives on world trade, the economies of US and China, the status of their international aid, India as a population giant, the carbon emissions of Berlin, and on and on.. A highly educated individual, he even knew about Texas' position as the Lone Star State and the choice to join the US voluntarily. After that, I became so interested in the US' position in world trade, it sort of became the topic of my birthday for the next 24 hours... Although I still basically know nothing. It seems super interesting though. So, with this small amount of information, I think I have completely reversed my position. I may yet become conservative in my old age... (naw)

We learned in Contemporary Social Movements class that basically the WTO is a Reaganomics function to open up global free trade markets and bolster the world economy. This allows the US to buy cheap products from poor countries, which could lean towards exploitation, as the US does not pay the same price as they would for the same product manufactured at home. (Right Mr. Rogers....? I don't know) Our teacher taught that people in developing countries do not want to be exploited, nor are they fans of the WTO. Here, many many people champion the WTO, advocating opening their borders. Even business magazines I picked up, Indian business magazines, have articles written by Indians and Nepalis strongly demanding their governments to open their borders to free world trade. They see this as the only way to ever have a place in the global economy. I feel like I sound seriously silly, I mean I am talking about something way out of my intellectual sphere.

I don't know what to think... I know nothing about economics. But, it seems to me that these countries will not be able to compete with a power like the US, especially if they open their borders. Won't this drive their prices down? To the point where they fall into economic demise?... (Again, Mr. Rogers....?)

I guess either way, it is the choice of these countrymen, and not us. Perhaps this is the only way for them to compete at any point in the future.

One other thing, I was told several several times to be proud of the country from which I come. We give the most aid worldwide. Certainly not Russia, China, Japan, England, Germany, even the Swiss with their impressive wealth. I thought that was cool. Maybe my most patriotic 4th of July yet. Certainly the most thoughtful of my homeland and her policies.

No pics from that night, unfortunately all erased from my camera stupidity. I posted more from the 5th on picasaweb though. - After my camera was fixed - Take a look.

Oh, one more thing.. when it turned midnight they had a cake and candles, apparently someone told the hostess it was my birthday. They sort of sang happy birthday, the tune was there, but I was not so sure about the pronunciation... "kaTHY yes yes yes kaTHY, kaTHY." I felt mortified with all the attention. But, admittedly, I had never thought Mr. Nepal Phillip Morris would sing me happy birthday over the WTO, whisky and the South Asian monsoon.

Hahaha, well I am an idiot. I've been in a pretty sad mood because most of my birthday was dreadful. One of my friends just became unglued for some reason, and caused the greater Thamel area an enormous headache. So, I decided "I have had enough, I am going to figure out how to get around completely on my own. (This city still confuses me so much). That is a good, mature 22 year old thing to do. I will be really grown up now. So, what better way to start than to go on a long, cool, relaxing walk after work? I could probably find my way to the river in the middle of the city, and even though it's polluted and terribly disgusting, at least it's nature, right? It will be the first I see with this new, 22 year old self."

Ridiculous.

I mean, I was not in real danger or anything, it's daylight and I stuck to main roads. That was part of the problem too, though. I unwittingly went during absolute rush hour on some of the biggest streets in Kathmandu (remember the zero traffic laws, and no yielding to pedestrians). There were packed people, 3 riots broke out, the cars constantly honk - it's like their turning signal - everyone yells in a language that still more or less sounds like absolute twangy jibberish, the policemen (who look like special forces troops in Iraq) run at vendors with shields and batons, small street kids incessantly grab your clothes to ask for money,religious men smoke, snake charmers sing, old men roll on the ground, exhausted babies lick the dirt off their mother's faces, UN drive their big cars, and I am like a walking archery target because of the way I look.

No, I complain, but it was only for an hour or so. I am covered in mud, but other than that, relatively unscathed. But, many times I find this city very overwhelming when I am alone.. Sometimes it gets to be too much for me, it seems filthy and grotesque and disrespectful and horrendous and old and so so strange and far away. I think that my exhaustion with Kathmandu probably is a large result of my "monkey syndrome." It's pretty draining to walk in a huge crowd of people who all stare at you like I have a flower pot for a head or something. Oh well, now I have learned: no walks down Kantipath alone during the evening. Not quite the peaceful stroll down University Avenue that I envisioned.

More tomorrow.

4th of July party at the "American Club." This is not in the Embassy itself, I am sure because the security is too tight. The American Club occupies a very large central space downtown, and has security checks almost to rival TSA. So, the only non-Americans allowed into the compound are on diplomatic missions. This is my friend in the foreground, she actually goes to Duke in North Carolina. I had Gatorade and Cheetos and Oreos and Cracker Jacks for the first time since I left, I had almost forgotten how much I love Gatorade. The snacks here are Indian curry things, like dried noodles, or fried peas, or yak jerky, so these (the Gatorade and Cheetos) were a great taste of home.

New Road, Kathmandu. I wanted to go there to get fresh mango juice, as well as to go to the big KODAK store to ask what was wrong with my camera and the reformatting business. Apparently, I had accidentally set the memory to some temporary format or something, but they reversed my mistake. Unfortunately, all of my photos from the last few nights are lost. I am especially sad about the ones from the night of the 4th, when I actually turned 22.

I found myself staunchly advocating WTO and USAID.

This is much later, friends celebrating, friends from all over, seriously all over. That has been cool in Kathmandu, meeting people from around the world, so different but kind of the same.

22!

This is kind of an awful post, but I think the internet is about to go down for the day. It's almost 5 here, around the time when the electricity blacks out anyways. I will have to wait to tell you what happened tomorrow.

Trying to get money and not disturb His Highness during his nap.

Clearly not bothered.

Chillin' again.

Lunchtime. Piles of refuse are everywhere around the city because the government no longer lets them dump in municipal waste areas (in certain areas).. so people do the next best thing, and at least put it in a pile... this one is strategically placed near a UN compound, hahaha.

The bougainvillea grows like weeds.

Luxury UN vehicles.

"Public transportation." The Microbus.

Western marketing everywhere, and see the saris the ladies wear... now imagine my American self running around... sore thumb monkey.

Oh, and the people here are fascinated by cowboys, even my more modern friends. Half the time I get tired and just let them think my Dad and brother are obviously "out on the range" while mom cooks cornbread. They say "oooh texAS, texAS, ooh, ok ok texAS."

My local pile of refuse.. getting a little rank in the warm weather.

My room. Home. Total mess, sorry.

Luxury mattresses....

And I had no idea what a pomegranate was, it's delicious! It reminds me of corn and grapes. Size of corn, and you eat it kind of like corn, but tastes sweet and fruity like grapes. Ahh I miss grapes.

Another sunset from the balcony.. seriously like this every night. I think all the particles in the air from the monsoon makes it so vivid.

My balcony.

Office friend, informing me about the relevance of social marketing in making youth aware of climate change.

Soldiers everywhere.

This is Kathmandu's "trucking industry." Right now the item of choice is surprisingly waste from somewhere.

Oh my GOD no more climate change. And, I'm not even hungover...

So, Happy Fourth of July! Light a sparkler for me!

About the protein thing, I think I have definitely been eating too much tuna, it's getting really gross. HOWEVER, I am going to try yak cheese this afternoon.. I can get plenty of that from this Government Dairy Development Center near where I live, but the I have not thus far because the place looks pretty sketch, with flies everywhere...

I hear it's totally clean though, but that yak cheese might make me "yack," so to be super careful with how much I eat. Sounds kind of gross anyways, but always an adventure.

I had several more meetings today, one of the least inspirational was my last this afternoon. The Nepal Environment Commissioner for the World Health Organization and I finally made connections. He was not as helpful as I had hoped for my project specifically, but I think he made some very very good assertions about the problem or issue of the environment impacting people.

One of his many points was that any environmental issue, by nature, is entirely too complex to separate from any other. So, in approaching the environment plus people, he said that the relationship is entirely dualistic and mutually enforcing. Thus, people affect the environment, and the changed environment affects them back.

He went on to point out, sort of on a different note, that the only way to protect people from climate change is to preemptively increase their self-reliance. This is where it gets interesting. In the case of Nepal, or other many other developing countries, the people used to be entirely self-reliant, obviously, they survived long before we got here. He says that the introduction of many types of humanitarian aid has made them less independent. For example, community members no longer think holistically about the ways in which they are ill, as in food allergies, or blood types. Instead, they view doctors as "car repairmen," light on the diagnosis and heavy on the shots, or pills that will hopefully, and usually make them better in the short-term. These people no longer look to the root of their medical problem, which could be allergies or whatever, they look to the quick-cure that lots of western aid provides.

(Jimmy please pipe in whenever, this is obviously not my expertise, and I'm sure you have come across this in much more detail and depth)

Thus, getting back to the point, to enable people at the local level to have a higher resilience to things like climate change, or environmental factors in general, you must increase their resistance, by increasing self-reliance (quite the ring-around-the-rosy to end up with such a mouthful).

So, have we (as good-intentioned westerners) unwittingly lowered the resistance of men and women in developing countries to those same negative externalities which we cause? We cause problems for them - like global pollution- then introduce non-sustainable fixes to those problems, which then increases their reliance on us to desperate extremes to continue these quick-fixes. (again, ring-around-the-rosy)

Well, at least that is what this Danish man from World Health Organization seems to think. I guess in any case, increased self-reliance is a great route. Please tell me your thoughts. (especially Jimmy)

And, now to yak cheese.....

No pictures for now, they were all erased when someone accidentally reformatted my memory card... But luckily most of them were on my computer.

The weekend was pretty fun, with the Euro cup - big event here.. but again no pics. And I was really sick towards the end of the week. My friends almost took me to the hospital, but I think they were overreacting a little. I was super faint and dizzy for 3 or 4 days, and I was so so exhausted that I couldn't stay out of bed for more than 4 hours at a time without feeling like I was seriously going to pass out.

I think the problem was that I have not eaten any protein - or very little - since I've been here. Most of the dishes are just rice and vegetables, or fruits like mangoes or bananas. They don't even really have cheese.. it's hard to find.

So, now I've been living with cans of tunafish and I feel quite a bit better (I even had a steak a few days ago... rare for them to cook cows in this hindu country, but I was desperate, and my "nurses" prescribed it). I think the same thing happened towards the end of high school... they told me I was anemic - I am sure it was just slightly anemic - at the time.

For a few years I have craved -and dreaded - the answer to the question of, WHY if the technology to reduce poverty is there, is cheap, is practical, is SIMPLE, is able to bolster the GLOBAL economy, W-H-Y do we not use it? Why, instead, do we follow and advocate subsidies (even if they are "well-intentioned" by some standards) that

1. devastate the global economy in the long-term (although admittedly in the short-term they can seem attractive)

and 2. DEVASTATE those fellow human beings, who the same "Christians" - making all these big policies (yes, face it, America runs the world, especially apparent from outside her glowing walls) claim to advocate.

For example, we have the technology that will allow us to alleviate technology and infrastructure that require the burning of fossil fuels ("UUggghh," I know you groan, but keep going, it gets better). I KNOW we have it, I mean if we had the nuclear bomb 60 years ago, are you kidding? So, the next question is, what is the nature of these technologies.. well think of the most cheap and available resources, obviously those that are readily renewable, free, and easily accessible. Obviously, sunlight, water, etc etc. I am not going to bore you with the details of renewable energy that you probably already know. But my point is, they are cheap and readily available to the lowest bidder, right? (I mean sunlight is not exactly taxable or anything) Next question, what is wrong with them? (this is besides the assertion that the "technology is not there," we already solved that one) Well, they produce no pollution.... oh, I remembered they require capital to build.

So, now explain why EVERY house in Kathmandu (country of annual GDP being about 200 USD) has a solar water heater on the roof. Certainly this cannot be explained by their high development status in the world market, the posh way of life, or the generosity of their monarchy government turned Maoist communist. So, why?

Maybe the Nepali likes the way they look, or maybe it is cheap, accessible, self-renewing, and causes no negative externalities (such as carbon emissions).

Soo... (getting warmer) WHY is this not used, advocated, or CHAMPIONED by the same world power who is considered the most progressive, developed, democratic, and human-rights (war on iraq ding ding ding) nation in the world? Why?

We now know it is not the expense, nor is it the technology, or availability, or the negative externalities, so why? Lobbying? Exxon Mobile? Perhaps. But it seems the American People, "with liberty and justice for all" and all the power and money in the world could overWHELM the wealthy executives at Exxon Mobile.

Almost every semi-educated person here has pointed out to me, "You know America is only 5 % of the world's population, but emits 20% of the world's carbon emissions? And nepal emits less than 1%, but takes the full brunt of it."

If we were not able to export our emissions overseas to these poor countries, they would be thriving - I know you could also argue that they would not have our positive benefits like medicines and blue-jeans - but, at least not suffering from sky-rocketing deaths from famine and diahhreal diseases caused by climate change.

What would happen if (and when, actually) we are forced to take a dose of our own medicine and digest our negative externalities? If all the pollution we produced was not able to leave the nation's borders? (which are super-strong now, thank you Georgy B.) Would we then allow and champion these sustainable technological advancements? If WE AMERICANS were faced with the environmental problems we export overseas, would we change (obviously so)? Or would we let our own people suffer? (obviously not)

So, in the name of the Lord our God who protects Mr. President so well, why are we letting our fellow lambs suffer overseas for no reason other than, "we like our big AC units and don't want no big solar thing or 'nother on top of the new ruuf?"

5 DAYS UNTIL MY BIRTHDAY!!!!!!!!

I am so excited!!

My friend's birthday is July 7th, and as per their religion (everyone here is Hindu) he must spend that day in worship all day. He has to go to the family Guru, somthing like 12 different temples, and some other stuff. BUT, on Saturday, he was like, we will celebrate your birthday like you are supposed to both here and in America. So, we are waking up really early in the morning Saturday and traveling to a Hindu temple high in the mountain jungle,then worshipping, "Pujah" (I keep on saying, that I am a Christian, and I really don't want to be disrespectful of your practices... but they always say, "Kathleen, our gods are one in the same, silly.") Then we must give offerings to different Gods that seem to be important in the past year as well as the upcoming year - mine will obviously have to do with saving from tremendous depression upon graduating Sewanee.

Next, back into the city and feeding families that would otherwise go hungry on my birthday. I thought this sounds like a really cool idea.. so he explained that first, with Karma this would come back around, but also, and more importantly, that on THIS day, on my birthday, that not just "me" would be happy, that 20 other people would be happy and not hungry also. I am really impressed by that thought. That definitely never occurred to me.

So, then after all this, to Thamel for a few drinks, and then another friend is having a huge house party Saturday night for mine and my friend's birthday on the 7th. Lots of glow-sticks, was my request.

Oh, and on the 4th, there is a huge party at the American Embassy.. which should be cool, at least for a little while. I need to work that day, and I think the embassy crowd could be a little ostentatious.

So, then on Sunday we have planned to go "Canyoning" which is repelling down waterfalls and cascades. I think in total it's something like 7 different drops each more than 100 ft. This is also the place with the second highest bungee junping in the world (the first in Switzerland or Austria or something)... NOT doing that though. So good weekend ahead.

--- Sorry this entry is something like a list. Bad form on my part.

I haven't written in awhile, mostly because I have been so bloody busy. I am finishing up my report in the next week and a half, and then heading to Dhankuta.. well flying to Biratnagar (yuck) then turning north and riding hours and hours into the mountains. So, Dhankuta is a hill / mountain region in which BNMT has many program districts. I have seen and examined the districts in the Terai region, now, obviously, I must travel to the other component of their targeted program districts, the hills / mountains. For example, I have seen what increased floods or change in precipitation patterns can do to a topographic plain, but now I must go see what this climate change phenomena will do to high elevation hills (we're not talking Mt. Everest high, but high enough for substantial human population). So I expect this to be change in patterns of artesian wells, timing of ephemeral natural springs, and lots of LANDSLIDES!!

Lately, in these meetings with different INGOs (International Non-Governmental Organizations) in the development sector, they have basically said that no one, absolutely no one in Nepal looks at climate change and health. Organizations focus on more funneled aspects such as climate change and water quality, or climate change and agriculture, or rural health and disaster management, but none with the focus that I would like to take. In one way this is sick, because my proposal will definitely be able to get BNMT funds to take the approach of health in terms of climate change (because it provides this organization with a unique niche in the development sector), but at the same time, I feel like Christopher Columbus, a little (understatement) blindly plowing through untamed waters.

Oh, yea, by the time I am finished, I will have a grant proposal written for BNMT to submit to USAID and other international agencies for funding to approach climate change and health in BNMT's program districts.

Busy busy busy.

I think I am going to stay for a week longer than I originally expected, mainly because this project is taking so much longer than I intended. I am going to finish this next week and a half with interviews and meetings, and hopefully write a good deal of it. Then, to Dhankuta - for almost a week because it is so remote and takes so long to get there - Then, back to KTM finish up, take a break and go to the mountains, "El Himal" for some exploring and head home! (so that's my next month in a nutshell)

I talked to Robel for quite awhile the other day about International organizations and their effectiveness against global problems like poverty, or hunger, or other "development issues."

I don't really know what to make of it. This afternoon I had a meeting with an INGO who specializes in water quality and sanitation. Peace corps-like providing rural marginalized communities with access to water and education about basic health issues. This meeting followed close on the heels of another meeting with one of Nepal's government ministries, their Ministry of Health and Population's Health Research Council. Yesterday I met with a woman who works as a professor / researcher for Nepal's Institute of Medicine. So, in the past 24 hours I have talked to people from 3 sectors of international development - and it would seem that these three sectors together could solve any international problem, right?

I don't know. That sounds awfully idealistic, and not really what I was trying to say at all.

Robel's point was that he rarely admits what he is doing in Nepal when he meets people. I asked why, I mean, I think the UN is the shit. He shook his head, "no mon, no" (he looks and talks like Bob Marley, seriously). He said when you are out of America or Europe (basically the "developed countries") never admit if you are working for an international organization, or any non-profit in general. Again, why? "Because they don't do shit mon. Not really. Naathing. And the people know it."

Well hell.

I walked a couple of miles back to BNMT from this water policy group this afternoon. Strikes are in full force, so no cars. Or, I didn't want to ride in one because of the dangers of rocks or guns fired at them. My walk went past the American Embassy - you remember my thoughts on that one - as well as the Japanese embassy, the Indian Embassy, and one of the UN office buildings. So, tons of official cars zooming around.

(and they are all WAY nicer than the average car here - but in prospective really bad cars at home)

Since we had that conversation, I have noticed that Robel is right about people not admitting what they do, if indeed they work for any non-profit, INGOs especially. He is also right about the people thinking INGOs are useless. If I introduce myself as a student people react very differently than if I introduce myself as "working for an INGO." Even Arya's fellow caste members who think themselves way above the development sector react very favorably if I say "student" as opposed to "INGO." So, the people must know it.

View of KTM exactly how it looks, I took this early in the morning before the city woke up.

I don't know what this means, but I guess it points to something being very wrong with the application of the international development sector. And, I really hope this doesn't offend anyone, that was not my intention. I only meant to speculate.

I just realized I have told you lots about hanging out, but not much about actually working, what I'm actually here to do. I will just give you a little bit, because talking about it becomes overwhelming.

I think the main thing I need to do is go back to Biratnagar and visit a few more program districts. What I have gathered from lots of sources kind of says that yes, there are lots of broad adaptations that you can apply regionally, but if I really want to submit an actual, workable, plan it needs to be very site-specific.

I have talked to people from a few organizations, but they have been sort of dead ends. This afternoon A lady from the Institute of Medicine of Tribhuvan University (the big college here) is meeting me in my hotel. - She's nice to do this, there has been an ongiong "bandha" or stike for the past few weeks... pretty much since I got here. Travelling around the valley poses a problem unless you have a motorcycle. Striking men everywhere throw rocks at cars who dare to drive on the roads.

Anyways, she should be super helpful. Tomorrow I am going to try to get across the valley to talk to a man from the Nepal Health Research Council, which is part of the Government Health and Population Ministry, then later in the day a man from the Government Department of Epidemiology. Wednesday or Thursday I will meet with another man from World Health Organization- Nepal, Department of Environmental Health.

I want to wait to talk to INGOs who focus on either climate change, or health because I do not want to be that specific yet. So, for now, broad organizations. Actually though, because this is such a big issue here, in the past few years different people and organizations in this field have been having lots of conferences about climate change and / or health. What I mean is that it's great for this part of the world that people are starting to look at what's going on, because I think really soon a lot of people here are going to suffer from the effects of climate change. Already summer famine has started. The monsoon rain already comes too fast and too hard a to grow rice - the obvious food staple around here.

So, these people should get me somewhere, then maybe back to Biratnagar next week. I really don't want to go alone though. Maybe I can arrange to go when Vivek and Dr. Subedi go back for another Tuberculosis conference.

I realize some of this must sound ADD, but I have been thinking about it too much to write about it clearly I guess.

My "office" at BNMT. Third floor, sick view.

I was really sad Friday, I'm not sure why... I just got uncontrollably homesick. I think it may have had to do something with remembering weekends at home, or at Sewanee, and missing my Friday night friends. Anyways, bad situation turned great as soon as I left work. As John Ruzic told me, friends and a little booze can sometimes be the "Rathleen Remedy" for being sad.

Arya called exactly as I walked into my hotel, "Cathy Cathy I am coming to get you, ok ok." He is pretty bossy, but I've learned just to boss back. The International Festival this weekend, "Fete de la Musique," sponsored by a French organization an INGO, was pretty much a huge music festival in which all the proceedes went from the French INGO to charity. Everything from traditional Nepali music to Pink Floyd punk covers.

In true form, Arya wanted to see it all Friday night. He has become a good influence because he refuses to drink until later in the night, because "you have to enjoy the city and music during the evening without being pissed (drunk). Get pissed after dark" We saw a little bit of a more traditional number, then back to his restaurant for dinner with some of his family, then ended up spending most of the night at "Tamas" listening to a Nepali techno DJ.

Techno at Tamas

(Again, more pics on Picasa web)

-Have I told you how both Vivek and Arya are in the royal family? Their "caste" is the Shahs, or late kings of Nepal, the dynasty ending the day after I got here - when the Maoists ousted the King from the Royal Palace. So these "family times" Arya insists that I sit in on are quite interesting. His house is ridiculous lavish for Nepal, and there are pics of him and the Crowned Prince in the jungle hunting tigers and stuff together.... Crazy.-

Anyways, he has a younger girl cousin who is really fun, party girl, who we met at Tamas. Then, later back to his restaurant to watch the Croatia / Turkey game on a huge projector they set up.

The next day, I planned to work but ended up going to Durbar Marg (King's Way) early in the afternoon for the big Fete de la Musique street festival with Vivek, Arya, Kiman, and some other kids. This was awesome. Again, kids are the same everywhere. They all definitely like to rock out with their friends.

Durbar Marg with Vivek, Arya and Kiman. Check out the helmets, they all ride motorcycles. Way fun.

Arya. Also, everyone here is ridiculously short. Sucks, Ruth.

- One other thing I do not think I have mentioned yet is just how much I stick out here, way more than a sore thumb, like an enormous, multiple-fractured thumb. It was really evident at this festival with me, and about 600 Nepali people. This is the "off-season" due to the monsoon, so there are almost no westerners (up from the few there are in other seasons). Seriously. They call me, and other white people, "monkey" because apparently when explorers first came to Nepal, the only other animals Nepalis had seen with white hair were monkeys. Actually, they keep talking about my visit to my "cousins" at Swyambunath last weekend (you know, the "Monkey Temple.")

I have never before felt how people with different skin colors in America must feel. Really, to be uncontrollably and irreversibly marked, everywhere, all the time, subject to immediate judgment. I am solemnly pledging to myself to try to never make those judgments again.. And I thought I was a pretty liberal, accepting person before. In changing positions, I see now that no matter what I thought, I really was not. Think about it, ok if a person with a different color skin walked in to go to dinner with one of your friends, you immediately categorize even little things, like their hair color, and texture, and the way they wear their hair. How they speak. How they greet you. How they sit down. How they talk to your friend. How they order food. How they eat their food. How they answer your questions.

In many ways these judgments are not intended to be malicious, I mean I do not think they were in my case, or when I was the one making them. But malicious or not, they are judgments that people make. Point being, I really am going to try to stop, because it sucks being on the other side.

Arya's pic from the stage. Look at all the brown skin and black hair. See what I mean?

Sunday, I was working on another project for Vivek - they needed help with the English - when Robel, the UN photographer from Eritrea, called. I forgot I had promised this Russian girl I would model for her clothes line she is exporting from KTM. Oops. God, I REALLY did not want to do this as soon as I remembered. At the time I had thought that it was something you say in passing, like "yeaaa, suuure, I'll do it," but don't really think they are going to take you up on it. WRONG. So, I went with her, Robel, some other Nepali guys, another girl from Finland, and Arya tagged along to carry my stuff (and he and Robel are best buddies).

I really have no desire to be a model. EVER. I don't like the camera. Oh well, it was funny and now it's over with. We went to the roof of this house right outside of Thamel and I had to put on all these jackets and pose funny ways. I just realized this could sound sketchy, but I trust Arya and Robel - who shot the pics. This girl really just needed a person. I wore all my regular clothes, and just put different jackets over them. I'll post a pic Arya took while it was going on.

Laughing about this with Robel.

I cannot write today. I feel really sad, I don't really know why. The weather is pretty bad, but clearing up. It's Friday and I think there is some international festival here this weekend.

I don't know what I am going to do. I really just want to talk to a westerner I think... oh well. I am homesick.

Monkeys at Swyambunath, "monkey temple." They run around free and have quite the relationship with the buddhist monks.

Tibetan prayer flags, you can see Swyambunath's height above the valley. It's an ancient place of worship, supposedly over 3000 years.

View of Kathmandu valley from Swambunath. Pretty dramatic monsoon working across the still sunny valley. I got drenched about 30 minutes later, and had used all my rupees on a necklace so I ran out of rupees to get a cab home. Took the "public transportation" through the monsoon... interesting.

At Bhaka Nadi with Rabindra.. the field officer / translator / facilitator from BNMT. This is the river that floods and covers the whole village with Himalayan sedimentation. You can see all the river rocks are metamorphic washed down from the mountains, even though the bedrock here is purely sedimentary. Cool. And, I don't think I've ever looked that good in my whole life. Very long day.

Hasandha farm pond. This was basically as close as I came to taking pictures of the area, no pictures with people I felt potentially disrespectful

Thamel, Aryo in one of his many restaurants. Not happy with my pictures. "pssh cathy why you do that? Give me that camera." He's a very good friend, even though super bossy.

Sunset from my balcony

"Freak Street" in Thamel, big hippy draw in the 70s

Well, I'm finally back from Biratnagar. Very wild ride. It is almost too overwhelming to begin to separate and categorize what happened.

I have tons of photos to upload, from sick temples, and rural RURAL nepal, but I can't export photos from iphoto to picasa anymore. Do you have any ideas? Is there some other way? AND when I try to do it takes almost an hour for a single photo. What is wrong?

Anyways, I left for Biratnagar pretty down about leaving Kathmandu, I've become quite attached to this place. I got so lost in their airport. The domestic terminal is apparently about a mile away from the international terminal (as with all here using "terminal" very loosely).

The hotel we stayed in way something akin to the New York subway station, if you can imagine - smells and all. The temperature was well over 110 while I was there, except for the day the monsoon hit full force and flooded the town. No airconditioning, and a fan that worked about 30 minutes out of the day. No electricity. Lizards all over the walls. Mold everywhere. We were about 2 miles from the Indian border, and I think I may be about one of 6 westerners to ever visit Biratnagar. The mosquitoes were about the size of half my thumb, (this is in the Terai which is highly endemic for malaria and Japanese encephilitis) and I forgot my mosquito net, and raincoat. Oh, and I did not bring any long pants or long sleeve shirts to protect from mosquitoes because I only thought about the heat. oh, and I forgot my water filter. oh, and I messed up my encephilits series.

So, all that being said, the Biratnagar trip was one of the best experiences of my life. The poverty strikes me afresh each time I face it, but this was different again. I went about 3 hours away one day - this is 2 hours on "pavement" and one hour on a dirt road, away from the already VERY rural Biratnagar. We had community empowerment sessions with the Hasandha Village Development Committee. I mean, I sat and listened and understood very little, I had couple of translators who are field officer and health correspondents for BNMT who were awesome.

I wanted to go see this river that is subject to torrential floods from Himalayan sedimentation and outwash plain. We went, and met up with another kid / man/ who really wanted to go to his home and have some sort of afternoon treat. (I was like, oh GOD this is not going to be good I am going to be so sick) Rather than pass out from dehydration, I had to drink the local water from their contaminated wells... obviously water bottles or filters have NEVER seen this part of the world. I mean these people have absolutely nothing. But, it was awesome. They literally live exactly like we do. I mean, they are people, they talk about the same things, do the same things, interact the same way, even though they live on dirt floors and have seen about three cars in their whole lives. They totally don't have plastic, or phone wires, or raincoats, or tennis shoes. Their homes were in worse condition than my treehouse growing up. They were so completely normal though. We ate mangoes and yogurt stuff with squash and water (I was really thinking I was going to become very ill).

It was cool.

My presentation was awesome. Both the people from BNMT Kathmandu and BNMT Biratnangar are really excited about this work. They are right, that if this can be pulled off, it will put them on the forefront cutting edge of this issue in Nepal. Dr. Subedi is thrilled about this, and has become a huge advocate.

I had another interview today with the Environmental and Public Health Organization in Nepal. INGO from Italy. The CEO was a little bit of a dead end, but I think I am going to the Epidemiology and Disease Control office of the Nepal Ministry tomorrow. Should be exciting.

The night-life in Biratnagar was obviously non-existent, but Vivek was there. He knew I really can't stomach the food somteimes, so we had dinners of Kit-Kat bars and Nepalese whisky.

I don't have much time to write, I just finished my presentation and got my plane ticket to take to Biratnagar tomorrow...

The presentation is pretty decent, I am just worried about the audience. I mean it is difficult to make a presentation without knowing basically anything about the audience.

I went to Swyambunath Sunday, which is a really famous temple on the highest hill overlooking the valley. It has tons of monkeys all around it. I have lots of awesome pictures, but I forgot my camera cord, so I will have to wait to download them until next Monday when I get back to work. Maybe I could do it in Biratnagar?

Anyways, next time I will have news from the Terai!

OH- one more thing though, I woke up this morning and today the petroleum prices rose from 80 to 100 rupees (esentially a US dollar, but really cheap because it's subsidized by the government - which is currently falling apart) There were road blocks all over Kathmandu with men protesting the fuel prices this morning. They were burning tires in all the roads, throwing stones through the windows of any cars that got on the road, and causing tons of destruction to the "medians" (I use that term very loosely- remember the non-existant traffic regulations)

The Maoists were there with their big red flags and loud speakers yelling communist mantras. Tons of soldiers in full on camo (which is blue here) with night rods and those big fiberglass shields and helmets and machine guns etc. It was quite exciting. This place is seriously Les Miserables style right now.

Anyways, I went with Aryo down to see the protesters. We didn't get in it, but it was right by my guest house, so easy to watch. Again, he knows everyone, so I got to talk to the police/soldier in charge of the whole Thamel, Lainchour, Lazimpat area. She was a woman which rocked, but super intimidating. She told us briefly about the petrol queue and the rioting since dawn, until more fighting broke out down the road and she had to go.

I know this sounds super dangers, but I promise I would never have gone alone (I realize that probably still doesn't sound assuring, but you have to be here)

It's really cool to see a revolution in action.

The woman soldier had a good point though. She said, she didn't know why these people and the Maoists before them try to wreak havoc, and end up doing it on the infrastructure, which throws the country backwards. I don't know what to make of it, not my revolution, but I though it was interesting.