Mark and I at a local wedding.

The Aktobe mosque.

Inside a yurt at the beach.

Inside my main bus.

French meatloaf at a cafe - not sure what makes it French, though.

"Kurt" balls: sour milk dried up into balls; a nasty bar snack.

Samsa - yummy, flaky, triangular grilled cheese sandwiches sold on the street.

Me and Melissa playing in the woods near my crib.

Photos:

Touching the handprint of Kazakhstan's prez, the cowboy themed party in Aktobe, Halloween Day at an American holiday-themed summer camp with other buds in Balkash, Baiterek tower in Astana (capital), frisbee at a city park, hangin at the embassy on July 4th, and playin at the beach in Balkash (that's Johnny).

Summer here is so fun. It's gorgeous here - hot summers , like Michigan, but with less rain and humidity. Across the street there are tons of gardens and a river thats sweet to swim in during the day. When I'm sweaty after playing frisbee in the city, and return at night, I just flop in the river and wash up. It's peaceful. I've got some buds that I hang with some nights. I've been gettin really into 17-19th century American history (and, eek, the TV show, Glee).

I love these songs:

Altynbek's "Akkuymsyn ansgan"

Yerbolat's "Men kazakhpyn"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KciHBNhJHEY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwk3V_a61pc

Pictures:

Rascal boys that climb trees around my apartment and yell my name out the window while I'm sleeping.

Some 5th grade girls.

My good friend, Melissa, and my favorite spot in my town.

PICS:

my new building: i live on the second floor.

new bedroom: pretty simple and cozy.

new market that just opened: total chaos at the grand opening - old grannies stampeding thru the door, babies crying.... this market is a big deal for our village.

my new bike!: kinda a clunker, but cool. usually only old men and little boys ride bikes, but..i couldnt resist.

other stuff in my village: a student at my school and his lil pup, some cottages across the street, and a lil fish from the river nearby.

a mausoleum i visited in turkistan: went on vacation to shymkent.

I finally experienced the much anticipated branch-wacking ritual during my weekly sauna bath. Two Russian dudes appeared while I was bathing and the older one actually spoke kazakh, which was super convenient. After a few questions in the dry sauna, he told me to lay on my stomach. I did as he was told and got whipped with a thick branch full of dry leaves. He whipped me head-to-toe, told me to turn around and repeated it on the front of my body. It was cool, for obvious reasons. Then he made me follow him to the bathing quarter where he dumped a bucket of cold water over me. Minutes later, he gave me one of his beers and the three of us sat naked, talking and sipping on beer and tea.

Then he invited me over for dinner. I had tea with his family that night and some of his children spoke some kazakh because they grew up in a predominantly kazakh village. It was crazy to hear them speak it. The son invited me to go fishing with him this summer.

I tried boiled camel's meat a few days ago. Tasted like boiled beef. Not my favorite thing in this world. Takes me back to the time when I nibbled on a goat's nose (or ear, I forget) when it was served to me at a feast or when I sipped sour, fermented goat's milk. Of these new meats I think horse has so far been the best. It all makes me kinda miss piggies, but everyone here detests that; so much that the root of the word for pig (“shoshka”) means FEAR!!! muah hah hahhhhhh. So I always get a funny rise out of them when I say that I don't eat meat now, but I used to love pig.

I'm still loving living here with Gulzira and Meirambai. In the evening when he's taxi driving, she prepares dinner and in intervals dances in the living room in the dark, wearing her apron, to Kazakh pop music on the TV.

Today I hitched a ride home after ice skating and the driver asked if I was a Nazi. He said it so matter-of-factly, as if it was common to encounter Nazis. ….Strange.

I've been realizing more and more the tradeoffs of having a communal society. As said before, people eat off the same plate and bathe together. I see 10 year olds hitchhiking to their friends home because people view each other as family. Kids help each other in class all the time. These are cool things. But it all comes at the consequence of lost indiviualism and freedom of expression. When you ask someone about themselves they say, “We believe that...” or “Us Kazakhs do this or that” as opposed to “I think that....” They're so used to agreeing with each other and thinking as a collective. In class, if you ask each student what their favorite dish is or if they like garlic and onions, their answers are always the same: “Beshbarmak” and “No!” I don't see much of a variety in haircuts, clothing styles, views on religion, opinions on government, food tastes, music tastes, interests. I've reached a point where I get excited if I see a guy with a red scarf or hear a person decline milk with their tea. They're a rebel to me. Haha.

Pics: Textbook pictures

Some unusual things I found in my 5th grade textbook. How do you like the depiction of nationalities? For the lesson on eye and hair color – was is necessary for the black kid to stick his ears out and the girl to stretch her eye lids? And notice the standards that're set for girls and careers. …...these books.....

A few different meaningless expressions compared: If someone calls for you from a distance, we respond with “Yeah / Huh / What!”, but here they say “Ow!” But then our painful “Ow!” is “Ai!” here. Our “Oh boy / Geez / Oh my” is “Oi bai!” here. If someone expresses mild surprise or indirect disapproval, like if you show your dad some worms you found or are cooking an unknown meal, we say an un-enthusiastic “Ohhhh / Ai yai yai”, but here it's “Mehhhhhhhh”. I often hear Oi bai, Mehhh, Ow, and Ai.

Pic: Mayonnaise.

Any bad (or good) habit that I had in America has been supplemented by an addiction and over-consumption of fatty mayonnaise. I mean, I put it on everything. I go through two tubes a week. In the summer I'm going to sweat out mayo. I might need an intervention soon.

I finally found popcorn seeds at the bazaar. Popcorn is pretty rare here. I made some at home – with honey, butter and cinnamon. My roommate loved it and excitedly asked where I bought the popcorn. So once I showed her the seeds and told her that people can actually make it at home she went hysterical. She was bent over picking at it quickly like a bird. It was funny.

Video: Me at the New Year's party, dombra included.

Pics: New Year's party.

The Kazakh celebration held at my apartment was kinda hilarious. The dudes and I took multiple shots of whiskey while the gals talked in the kitchen. After eating beshbarmak and at each interval of the night, people passed the time by looking through photo albums (at a party).

I showed them pictures of America and one guy asked, “Why is everyone's noses big?” I responded, “No, no, no, that's just me and my family.”

Then all of a sudden, after a peaceful and restful photo browsing session, they blast music in the apartment and all gather in a circle in the hallway and dance. I was caught off guard. A pair of guys danced together in the center, while people clapped and danced, too. My host/roommate was dancing while wearing her apron.

There were multiple toasts given. No one ever finishes a drink, alcoholic or not, because that implies you don't want to accept anymore beverages (generosity) from the host. We had American rap playing in the background.

Around 2am the dudes were getting into some conflict outside with other guys while the girls turned off the lights of the apartment to peek out the window and listen. When the guys returned the women kept silent about the tomfoolery. It was another example of how immature guys are and the patience, talent, and strength women have here. We went to bed at 3:30am.

The next morning at 9am I got a call saying I must see the mayor. So I went to a New Year's children's performance and when I was leaving to get my coat from some office, I walked in on a circle of the mayor and officials making toasts with champagne. So of course I had to join for a bit and then depart.

For Christmas, I helped out at my friend's school's Christmas celebration. Hearing that I was coming they decided to make me dress up as Santa and be one of the main judges. It was hilarious cuz at one point after announcing the winner, they blasted Beyonce club remix songs and all the children danced with (and around) me in some wild mosh pit.

I started going to (and will soon assist with) the official English Club at an American Corners organization in the city. It was refreshing because many of them were near my age and appeared to have interests beyond their daily routine (something I run into too much in my village). I foresee maybe forming some good friendships and connections through this place.

I was on the bus the other day and group of young kids and teens got onto the bus. They were wearing colorful rag clothes (something you'd see straight out of a stage play about peasants). They made a big spectacle of running around, trying to trip each other, punching each other – and then they got off without paying. It was strange. Maybe they were orphans. I wonder if it's common in KZ for people in these circumstances to get free access to public transportation. Or maybe they made a spectacle so people wouldn't mind them not paying because they'd be relieved to see them gone.

A couple new things have become part of my routine. I've been reading a fairy tale a few nights a week (and love how dark and melancholy some are – I recently read “The Fir Tree” and it made me wanna weep). I've also been having solo dance sessions with my i-pod, in the dark in my room, which puts me in a good mood. I also think I'll start going to a free yoga class on Sundays (I probably wouldn't in the US, but it was kinda fun last week - it was a good mix of moms, teens, and dudes – and a lot of the stretches were really erotic.

My school has shortened classes and in-between breaks a bit because the school is so cold.

So . . . most people I meet think I'm Turkish, which I guess is better than them assuming I'm American. Maybe it's just because I speak a little Kazakh. I remember how -certain- Americans would sometimes foolishly think my siblings were Arab or Mexican because they had a summer tan.

It's usually -5 degrees Fahrenheit and it simply hurts sometimes. I try to get two week's worth of food when I shop now to avoid being outside too much. But it's honestly not too bad. It's like those few cold days in Michigan when you can feel your boogers freezing.

I haven't found a language tutor yet, but I've found that I get good language practice when I go to the local pub to prepare lessons and have a beer. People all have questions and they're all really friendly.

I finally started my discussion club and our first topic was Love and Dating. The students are pretty cool. I burned them a CD of my music and we plan to go on some field trips maybe. They think it's ridiculous for an American to want to come to their country.

Video: My students say hello.

December 16th was the Kazakhstani day of Independence. About a hundred people gathered outside in front of city hall to watch Kazakh dancers, students singing, and awards being given out. I had to memorize and recite a brief speech in Kazakh to the crowd with a microphone. It was not too bad. I was awarded a stuffed camel doll. It was hilarious, though, watching these people stand in the freezing cold (I was with them). Everyone kept slightly walking in place to keep their blood flowing. I just couldn't understand why they'd gather outside when it's 0 degrees.

My school has no heat so I (and other teachers) have already started to wear scarves and gloves while we teach. I see my breath when I teach. Jealous?

I'm really tired today. I had to make multiple trips carrying buckets full of our leftovers to a nearby friend's apartment for their cow to eat. I still don't know about my living situation. People are afraid to give me updates and explain the details to me. I think I'll be able to stay here in this perfect apartment for a maximum of 4 months (under new conditions). I was talking about eventually living alone in later months and some people said there are no available apartments nearby. This could turn into a problem because I'm not interested in looking for another family in May. I'd like my own place.

The photos in the previous post are of this backstreet boy-ish band of Kazakhstan that I saw. I met them backstage, which was kinda cool, though the venue was basically a high school auditorium and the singers had beer bellies.

Video and Pics: Some of my classes, my school, and some pop group I met, called “Jigitter (boys)” .

It turns out my living situation may have to change once again. I'll have more updates later. I feel like a foster child.

Video: My roommate playing the dombra.

Pics: My new room, kitchen, and my roommates.

So...after a few weeks of being uncomfortable in my home, I decided to find a new family. I now live in a 3rd floor apartment with a young couple who work at my school: Gulzira is an English teacher and Meirambai is a military teacher. I have a cute room that overlooks the Kazakhstani steppe and has a balcony. I use the cold balcony as my fridge and as my clothes dryer. The situation is ideal because I'm treated like a roommate and not a child. She'll be showing me soon how to make bread from scratch.

A few nights ago I went out with 6 male teachers. It was the dude-iest night of my life - hilarious. Two nights later I went out dancing with 6 female teachers and it was really fun. There isn't that awkward inhibition with dancing that I usually see back at home. The crowd doesn't often see people dance like me (stupid style), so I was kinda a hit for a night. And every guy I meet for some reason asks me to go with them to a “women sauna”. Weird. Anyway, I'm finally starting to hang out with people my age. And next month I plan on starting a Discussion/Debate Club with my 11th graders where we talk about juicy topics, so that could be really fun.

And remember when I never waited to hear your “goodbye” before hanging up the phone? It was quick (3-2-1- bye). Well, here, I only ever hear an “OK” before people hang up. It's even quicker and without a “goodbye”, so be prepared to witness poorer phone etiquette when I return.

Lastly, I want to say that the mayo here is like twice as fatty. Mark was right. I'm gonna be addicted (at least I'll maybe gain a few more pounds now). . . .

Video: My bro says “Hi” I started teaching finally after so much waiting and schedule prep. The kids are pretty cool. All English teachers here start classes with “Good morning class. I am very glad to see you.” And the kids shout back, “GOOD MORNING TEACHER! WE ARE GLAD TO SEE YOU, TOO!”. It's kinda happy.

My family lives the clean life. I must wash my hands every time I enter the house, and before and after eating (turns out being 6 times/day; and that's not counting the times I'll wash them if someone knows I'm using the toilet). After coming home I must change into my house clothes (pajamas). I scrub and polish my shoes everyday and I also can't touch my skin during meals. Yep. .....I miss the feral life.

I now know my work schedule: I work Tuesdays thru Saturdays, grades 5,8,9,10,11. I will be tag-teaming these classes with a teacher for each class.

I finally found a wifi cafe, so I'm hoping to video chat with people next weekend. The time that'd be best for me is my Sunday morning, which is your Saturday night (between 11pm-2am). So only the hardcore andrew lovers will do it.

Pics: My new brother, my new home in Kargala (and view from bedroom window). the train, and my first family in Panfilova.

I took a 41 hour train to Aktobe. The ride was so fun because I met a ton of cool strangers (I finally met a kazakh person who I think “got” me), people shared lots of their food with me, and I got rest. After arriving at the station, 3 co-workers and my school director met up with me and took me immediately to my new school (which is a huge 3-story school). I introduced myself to 15 classrooms and then met my new family. My peers seem really easy to work with. There are like 6 other English teachers who I'll be working with and they're all women in their young 20' s, excited, inquisitive, and pretty cool. I live in a beautiful 2-story brick house. It has an indoor toilet, bath, and washing machine, is only 2 minutes from my school, only 2 minutes to the bus station, and just a 30-minute bus ride to downtown. I live with a married couple (Berik owns three markets at the downtown bazaar and the Gulnar works at home) and their amazing 10 year old son, Adiljan (he wrestles. too). Me and Adiljan have become fast friends. I'm 10 minutes from a library with internet, also. I'm ecstatic to have space from american crowds. I've been thrown to the opposite side of the country and I'm okay with that right now.

The first few days at my school have been fun, though a bit weird because swarms of children will crowd around me (as if I'm Elmo) and shout kazakh and english salutations. I've had to escape the kids that follow me by taking refuge in the teacher's lounge. There's a sensation in the school about having a foreigner, but that sensation will soon fade I'm sure when they realize my Kazakh skills aren't developing and I actually am here to teach and not just play.

I also met the city mayor in his office (he gave me a dictionary with his signature). Kargala has pretty hills, paved streets, though it certainly has its fair share of poverty. Sledding might need to happen in the winter. It's basically Wayne because it's a cute little city where you can walk to all the important places, but take a 25 minute ride if you need some big city action.

Hitchhiking is pretty common in KZ - old grannies and teenagers do it. It's been really fun getting into the cars of strangers when me and friends have missed the last bus of the night, are lazy or lost. It's also funny to shop at the bazaar because bargaining is common and the clerks usually go down like 10-15%, especially if you make them laugh with your rocky Kazakh. (I never thought I'd be a bargaining supporter after selling apartments in Ann Arbor).

I've also appreciated the communality and different views on body image . People bathe in groups and help scrub each other. Strangers change in fitting rooms together and people eat off the same plate, double dip non-stop, and share food insistently. I like how things are a bit more loose.

My last piece of praise is the fact that I finally sat down to watch TV and discovered that our TV has Nickelodeon and CNN in English; this means I'm able to watch iCarly!. To anyone who's worried about my well-being, be comforted, because iCarly is back in my life once again. And all is and will be well.