The new term has started and everything is getting right back on track. This year seems to be starting a lot better than last year. I’ve given up trying to motivate the all kids by becoming a mentor to them. The overwhelming majority just don’t care. I have a few that seem to be following my example though they aren’t in my classes anymore. This year I have grade 8 physical science and math, and a grade 10 physical science. My classes are pretty well behaved so far but it’s early in the year. Last year I made a rookie teacher mistake by being too lenient in the beginning. It’s a lot harder to be a hard ass to a bunch of people you don’t know than you’d think. After getting a taste of undisciplined children last year, it’s become much easier to be a hard ass to the kids. I see the ones who are most likely to cause problems and try to stop it early. Everyone in Peace Corps says your second year gets easier and it couldn’t be truer. I know what to expect from the staff and from the learners. I know what to do if the power goes out. I also know what to do when everything completely changes in the middle of the day for no apparent reason. Last year I tried to be the model of professionalism and certainty, always being on time to classes and being annoyed when a staff meeting went over or started late. I was trying to be the rock in the middle of the river. Slowly, over time, I’ve learned to be a piece of drift wood instead and just go with it. It’s not easy to do. In the US we are so used to the rigidity of our educational system that it’s hard to break into a fluid system.

This rainy season is not like last year’s rainy season. Last year it rained nearly every day and once or twice I woke up to find a seasonal river going through the town. This year the rain has been more sporadic. It will rain about four or five times in a week and then it won’t rain at all for a week. I love the rain here. It slows everything down and cools everything off. The only problem with the rain is when the power goes out but even then you just eat a can of beans and read by candle light.

Athletics (track and field) has begun for the year. The entire school is broken into teams and forced to compete against each other. Even if you hate sports its compulsory. I don’t quite understand why they make it compulsory, but they do. I see the same problems this year that I saw last year. For instance, no one hydrates. Before races the runners are given sugary juices and maybe a Gatorade, but not water. As a result some of the competitors collapse upon finishing the race or right before the finishing line.

Within the first three weeks of school starting we have had two teachers resign from their posts. One was a grade 6-8 math teacher and the other was grade 8-10 life science teacher. This creates a rather large dilemma because both were put on the time table (schedule) and now all the other teachers will have to cover for them. Hopefully we will be able to replace them soon but I’m not overly optimistic. Most likely all of their classes will be given to other teachers and we will continue as normally as possible. However, the other problem is, I leave in October and all of my classes will also need to be divided amongst the teachers. Imagine needing to split three teachers’ workloads on the rest of the teachers at a school. It’s not fun for anyone.

Before I left for America, I embarked with several friends on a trip through northern parts of Namibia in a rented bakkie (truck). The first day started in Rehoboth and ended in Ruacana Falls on the border with Angola. This is where we found out our map was not entirely accurate. It stated that Rehoboth was 900km from Ruacana, its closer to 1100km. After a full day of driving we camped for the night and relaxed. The next day we went down to the falls and looked at the trickle of water that barely peaked through the rocks. It was a bit disappointing. Since it’s been dry season so long there’s almost no water in the falls. However, the mountain man of the group had a good idea and we went bouldering on all the rocks that would be covered in water and inaccessible come rainy season. After Ruacana we traveled to Epupa falls. This drive was spectacular, through mountain terrain, dried river beds, and near traditional Himba villages. Here the falls did not disappoint. Though they are along the same river, Epupa Falls is not as seasonal as Ruacana.

From Epupa we traveled south through some crazy mountainous terrain to Sesfontein (6 springs) and Fort Sesfontein. Now, something I’ve learned, driving is not the same everywhere you go. Imagine driving down a mountain, 7 people and gear for a week, on a dirt road, without anti-lock brakes. Luck for the group I learned on the fly and only lost control a handful of times and never in a serious way. Sometimes we slid a little. We saw the fort (now a hotel) but were unable to stay due to the expense. We drove on the next day to Twyfulfontein (doubtful springs), organ pipes, and the burnt mountain. We spent the night at a campsite that had a nice little restaurant and bar. The cool thing about this place is that they also had lots of bats. On more than one occasion we thought we might get attacked. I already had plenty of rabies shots so I wasn’t too worried. Finally we went to Brandberg, Namibia’s tallest mountain. Though this is a beautiful area, the guide (who was required) was a complete jackass and attempted to spoon feed us bullshit about the history of the place. Here one of our spare tires was stolen from our truck. It put a damper on the end of what was an amazing trip. We went back to Rehoboth, dropping people off along the way, and it was good to be back in my flat relaxing.

Two days later I boarded a plane and took the 30 hour journey back to Gainesville Florida. The plane ride was awesome. I wore my Peace Corps polo shirt and met a lot of cool people, some were former PCVs and others who just finished service or were still in Peace Corps. The 17 hours from Johannesburg to Atlanta was close to miserable, the over the counter, natural, organic, sleep aid did nothing whatsoever. In fact in my 30 hours of travel I slept maybe four. Once back in Gainesville I called people, hung out with my family, and made plans for later in the week. I never really believed much about jet lag, but that me hard for the next few days. I would go to sleep around 5pm and wake around 2am. It was strange but eventually worked out. I had a lot of fun seeing people and hanging out with family. I traveled back to Namibia starting three days ago and finally made it back to Rehoboth. Tomorrow I’m going to make enchiladas. Also, Air Namibia is not a fun airline. By far, the worst food of the trip and all the seat belts say “Air France”.

After being in Namibia for well over a year, I have noticed all sorts of prejudices. Most are tribal related and date back several hundred years. The Damara and the Herrero have been fighting off and on for nearly 1000 years, though with no written record of when the conflict started it’s difficult to know when it actually started. Everyone just knows those two hate each other and always have. Occasionally though, it is extremely helpful to be white. Why? You say. Well, as many of you know I’ve been working on a school renovation project with money that was donated by my church (thanks Trinity United Methodist Church) and we finally went to Windhoek to buy paint, brushes, sealant, and a few minor things for classroom repairs. I went with my vice principal (Mr. Bock) who is a Baster (colored). We spoke with the people in the paint section about prices and inquired about a school discount. They sent us to the manager who was an Afrikaner, white people who are known for establishing apartheid. I speak with him instead of my vice principal and he sends me to a contract manager, who is another Afrikaner. The second guy barely spoke but gave us a large discount. I mean he took off about N$2000, about a 35% discount when we were just hoping to get 10% off. My vice principal is convinced it’s because I’m white. I think it’s more likely because I’m American. People here are fascinated with Americans. I’ll never actually know why they gave us such a large discount, but I know we’re going to take advantage of it for the next year.

Also I have decided that one rabies post exposure treatment was not enough and decided that I should obtain a dog so I can receive more rabies treatments. In reality my new roommate wanted a dog so I agreed and ended up getting a dog from another volunteer. He’s about four months old and his former name is “Polony,” but it has been decided he needs a new one. We decided to rename him “wicket,” not after cricket or croquet but after the ewok adventure movies of the mid 1980’s . Yes, I found a roommate who is a nerdy as I am. Sometime Peace Corps is awesome.

School has been hectic and crazy since the start of term three but I’m just going with it. Only one more week of teaching and then I can sit back and watch learners take exams. Then it’s off on a whirlwind adventure around northern Namibia followed by time in the states. I’m using all my vacation time to do these trips. It’s ok though, my only other planned trip is Cape Town next April. My garden workshop had to be postponed for a few days. If it happens again I’m just going to dig the whole thing myself. It’s easier than trying to plan around the constant cycle of weddings and funerals.

Term is pretty much back to normal after the initial confusion and craziness. Or maybe I adjusted my definition of confusion and craziness; I’m not sure which yet. The garden is coming along nicely though we won’t be planting until November 5th. It’s supposed to be a garden workshop but I’m not too optimistic that teachers will give up half a Saturday to dig in the ground so I may end up doing the whole thing myself. I don’t actually mind because it gives me something productive to do in the afternoons. Two of my classes have been combined into one massive class which is creating most of the current problems. 8C and 8D were combined which puts somewhere around 55 learners in a class. There aren’t enough chairs or tables, or even space, but no one really seems to care.

I played soccer this week with some learners from the hostel next to my flat. They’re pretty good but completely undisciplined when it comes to tactics. Mostly they rely on an individual or two to do all the scoring and work while everyone else tries to get in the way. I tripped and landed on my left while playing and decided it was best to pull myself out. I put ice on it, elevated, and called Peace Corps. The next day I went to the Rehoboth School Spelling Bee and was impressed with some of the learners. My school was out in the first elimination round (like always) but other schools had to spell words like lymphocyte and aborigine. Some 20 rounds later a winner was crowned. Otherwise there’s not much going on in my life. Oh I might also be getting another puppy from a volunteer. This one has all its shots and hopefully won’t give me rabies.

The start of term 3 has been riddled with problems and annoyances. After coming off of a wonderful break, the learners have decided that being a mutinous, whirlwind of insanity is an excellent way to kick off the new term. The problem is similar to that of senioritis, except with more violence. The learners who are going to pass, know they are going to pass, and don’t care. The learners who are going to fail (most of them) know they are going to fail, and don’t care. Most of this term is spent doing review for the end of year exams. So the learners don’t have anything new and the smart ones know everything already. The ones who are demotivated because of the last term’s grades give up trying to learn the old information. So you have two completely separate groups of disinterested people. This creates a huge headache for the teachers.

Now before you go thinking that everything is bad, I’ve developed a new hobby to release my stress. I’ve finally started digging my garden. It’s 6m x 6.5m x 10cm roughly. I posted some videos on facebook but for those of you who are not my friend on facebook, I will explain the process. The entire area was full of dead grass left over from the previous rainy season. This grass is 2.5 feet high and with roots that go down a few centimeters. The grass has adapted to be resilient and grow back quickly. I cannot simply plant over it, so I have to dig it all out. I’ve spent at least ten hours on it already and its coming along nicely but I need to spend about another 10 hours or so on it. This is all just preparation, we haven’t actually planted anything and we won’t be planting anything until the beginning of November.

Also this week I met my new roommate Sam. He’s from Georgia and seems like a nice guy. He won’t move in until December because he has to do a homestay with a family in Rehoboth. He will work at Rehoboth Primary School teaching English. It was awesome meeting his principal, Paul. Paul is actually interested in making sure the volunteers are comfortable and he’s committed to painting part of the flat, as well as moving in some comfortable furniture. This is a small miracle. I slept on the floor for three months because my bed was so shitty (only accurate word) it hurt my back. My principal (and the inspector) wouldn’t do anything for me. It good to see that there are some principals who see volunteers as more than just free labor.

I started my journey heading north on the B1 (main road) to Tsumeb to meet up with my friends Quinn and Gretchen. I’ve been to Tsumeb before but it is one of the nicest areas in Namibia. It has some of the most fertile land and looks well maintained by the population. Of course, I did not visit the location (ghetto) where most of the problems are. After that I headed north (still on the B1) to Ondangwa. The landscape along the road is reminiscent of Paines Prairie, with long stretches of flat grassland with only a few trees no taller than a two story house. Along the road sprawls mud huts and tiny villages every few kilometers. Nearly half the population lives in the area, we call, the four O’s, or Oland. This area is populated by the Owambos and is largely homogeneous. I made my way to Eenhana (silent “h”) and then on to the village of Okongo to see my friend Edward.

Just north of Ondangwa the landscape changes, the grass is greener, the trees are taller, and a real feeling of Africa overcomes you. Edward and I cook in his brick house on a homestead. A homestead is an enclosed area with several huts or houses living under the same patriarch, many PCVs in the north live with a family on homesteads. Edward introduces me to the family and we decide that we should go to Oshikongo, a border town between Angola and Namibia. Oshikongo is one of the strangest places on earth and I determined I was 64% more likely to die in that town than anywhere else in Namibia. It’s not exceptionally dangerous or anything, there’s just a ton of taxis and people. Taxis in this area do not drive by any sort of rules. The just simply drive and try to get more people for more money without any regard to other cars or pedestrians. Now the crazy part about Oshikongo is the china town area. I didn’t expect to find a china town outside of Windhoek but right on the border is a china town with restaurants, housing, and shops, for the Chinese only.

I went back to Okongo but left the next day for Tsumeb. I met my friend Min, who was traveling to Victoria Falls, and went to a really nice country club with Quinn. Nothing of real excitement happened. I left and went on to Okahandja, meeting up with Shannon, Brian, Diana, and some of the new group, who arrived a week ago. While in Okahandja I am told of an opportunity to head to Spitzkoppe and I leave the next day heading east.

I meet up with my friends Adam and Jeanine, and their friends Spencer and Mel from America. We camped in the Spitzkoppe mountain range. It’s a good thing I always bring my tent (and food) while traveling. Spitzkoppe is an absolutely gorgeous mountain range complete with technical climbing routes, or if you’re like me, hiking routes. We spent much of the afternoon and early evening just climbing around on massive boulders and mountains before watching sunset over desert. We made a fire and slept well that night. The next day they dropped me off in Karibib and I heading for Rehoboth, making it home around 4pm, completely exhausted. I covered between 400 and 650 kilometers everyday without rest for 6 days.

Also the title comes from a Bob Dylan song.

This past Friday my school had its first entrepreneurship day of the year. It was a pretty big success. The learners and teachers all had fun. My group made a pizza, cake, pancakes, potato salad, cookies, and we had colored pencils, string and other items for sale. The pizza was the first to go lasting less than 20 minutes before being devoured by learners and teachers alike. I didn’t know it would go over so well. Often American (and foreign) food don’t go over well unless it’s covered in meat and grease. My pizza had only the necessary amount of grease and meat. Teachers are now asking for the recipe and to come over and watch me make it so they can do it for themselves. I don’t know how my teaching impact is, but if nothing else I can show everyone here how to make a good pizza. I also allowed the teachers and learners to cut my hair for N$2 per cut. It went over well with the teachers but the learners spent their money on the bounce castle or food. One of the highlights for a few learners was when I let them shave my beard with an electric razor. They enjoyed it and left me with a nice mustache. It was good to “let my hair down” with the learners. Most of the time they see me I’m very serious and work oriented. The teachers have all seen me have fun and make jokes but it’s not a side I show to the learners too often because I want them to be as serious about their education as I am about teaching them. During the festival I spoke with my HOD and we want to put on another one in October. This time I will make more than one pizza.

After the festival, Ricky and I went to judge the Mr. and Mrs. Ruimte (pronounced raim-ta) pageant as a favor to Anna, the other world teach volunteer in Rehoboth. These pageants are a big deal here and they are sometimes corrupt. That is why Ricky and I were brought in as impartial judges from America. In the end winners were crowned but that was not the highlight of the night for me. There was a section of the contest called “recycle” wear. The children were supposed to make a dress out of old everyday items and they were extremely creative. There was a dress made entirely out of old ties and several unique skirts made out of burlap sacks. The one that won though was a dress made completely out of Xrays from the hospital. The chest piece was even a chest Xray. Needless to say Ricky and I were blown away when we saw that dress.

I’m still sick but hopefully getting better soon.

In the interest of full disclosure I would like to pre-apologize for any offensive language in this blog. I often try to keep my blogs relatively clean but after this past week it just seems unreasonable. I actually wrote this twice. The first time was an incoherent rant filled with a slew of curse words and colorful language.

On July 18th I went to mid-service training with the rest of group 32. It was really nice to see everyone again and I even learned a few good techniques for classroom management. Two days later I went to the all volunteer conference (AVC) where we ate delicious food, used high speed internet, drank significant amounts of beer, and sat in on guest speakers. The Deputy Minister of Education gave a speech and so did the Director of Education for Hardap region. The highlight of the conference was meeting the ambassador from the US to Namibia. We had a meet and greet at her house, which was large and beautiful, where we ate pizza and there was draft beer. Draft beer isn’t something we get often so it was a good change up. That was the good part of the week, now for the bad.

During AVC I received a text saying my dog was sick. The next day I got a call saying it would cost N$3000 and the dog needs to go to a hospital. Not having the money for this I asked my counterpart to take care of it. Later I received a text that said “dog done” and I believed my dog was dead. That night I got a call from Mrs. Pretorius where she said “Ernest (my dog) is responding well to medicine and might recover,” I was ecstatic. I came home Saturday the 23rd and retrieved my dog from the Pretorius house. Ernest immediately responded to the sound of my voice, though he was weak and sickly, he raised his head and tried to get up. Mrs. Pretorius gave me the medicine and some food and I carried the sick puppy back to my flat. I fed him medicine with a syringe, gave him a warm towel in his box, placed it next to a heater, and gave him lots of food and water. In the middle of the night he started having severe seizures, foaming at the mouth, and he became unable to control his bodily fluids. In the morning the two volunteers (PCVs) staying with me for the weekend left to run errands while I watched the dog. I put warm water in the bath tub and moved him so he could piss and shit without making my flat gross. I gave him water using the syringe and tried to make him comfortable. He died as I was petting him and I was miserable. This was the only time I thought about coming home since I left nearly a year ago.

Now earlier I mentioned there were two other PCV’s and I mentioned the dog had seizures and foamed at the mouth. These two were worried about rabies. I was just depressed. They called the medical officer and it was determined that we should all be put on rabies quarantine and then come to Windhoek for additional rabies shots. That’s right, fucking rabies quarantine. One of the PCVs and I were told to stay in Rehoboth for quarantine and not venture out too much though I was allowed to attend school. I never in my life thought that I would be put on quarantine for anything let alone a disease that, if untreated, kills 100% of the time. The absurdity and ridiculousness begins and I spin out of control, losing my fucking mind in the process.

I return to school the following day only to find that 8D has decided my classroom would be better if they broke my desk. That afternoon we had a meeting where all the teachers argued for more corporal punishment. I kept my mouth shut until I was asked to speak by another teacher. I spoke concisely and passionately about not beating children but was mostly ignored me. However I managed to convince one teacher to stop corporal punishment. Hooray for small victories, otherwise this place would eat you alive. I returned to my flat where my quarantine buddy and I make some mac and cheese. Sometimes mac and cheese is the best food ever. Wednesday I got slightly yelled at for not having my end of term exams ready. They weren’t ready because I was at a conference and then getting rabies shots. I quickly worked with two other teachers to get exams prepared. Wednesday was uninteresting except for the fact that my immune system is in a state of shock. I received a flu shot and a hepatitis shot, and a rabies shot, and went to school where half of my learners are sick. I cough so hard my chest hurts.

Thursday I go back to Windhoek with my quarantine buddy and speak with the medical officer only this time she notices the cough and writes a prescription for some over the counter cough medicine to knock loose the phlegm in my lungs. I get another shot and wonder how many vaccines are too many. Friday my school has an American day. American day is when the learners pay two dollars and are allowed to wear clothes other than the school uniform. No teaching occurs and I sit around solving IT problems for my HOD and colleagues. Since my absence, many computers seem to have developed random IT problems that I fix. My cough is getting worse and the medicine seems useless. Ricky, Liz and Anna come over for pizza Friday night. It was a successful night of bitching. My roommate Mitra left to take a week off from school and go to Zambia on vacation. Sometimes I wish I wasn’t so committed. That way I could go on vacation in the middle of a term. Shit I’ve only take 4 sick days this term and spent most of it with some form of flu/cough/rabies.

Some other little things annoyed me too but they aren't important enough to mention on my blog.

Lately my world has been upside down. I was given a puppy by my colleague Mrs. Pretorius, six days later it was stolen. The following day the security guards stole it back for me. Then I went to mid service, all volunteer conference, my dog died, and a fair bit of room mate conflict. I was always taught, "If you don't have anything nice to say then don't say anything at all." So instead I will just post a link to her blog and allow you to read anything you like. Please do not comment on this page or in any other public forum. If you feel your opinion needs to be heard, you may email me or facebook me.

http://bombsandfireworks.tumblr.com/

I didn’t make it to Gobabis for the Fourth of July BBQ and I didn’t get my puppy this past weekend either. I actually skipped the BBQ so I could get the puppy and then the car that had my puppy broke down on the way from Keetmansoop. I ended up going to Dr. Lemmer High School’s entrepreneurship day and rugby game to see if I could get any ideas for my own. The thing that was most noticeable was the income disparity between my school and their school. Most of the teachers here want to sell cakes, sweets, and other food items. When I went to Dr. Lemmer they had professionally made cakes donated from local bakers. My school can’t get any food donated to it. They also had an inflatable slip and slide which I thought was awesome, though I decided it was too cold for it. While at the entrepreneurship day I ran across some Americans who were working at Oanob Primary School. They were missionaries from California and invited me to a braai on Tuesday. Some of them went home Wednesday and another group is showing up Friday. Most of them will be here for about a month working at the school and helping out with various church functions. The group is comprised of mostly high school students and early college students. It was good talking to them and sharing some of my wilder stories about school and traveling.

Last Friday I went with the grade 10 classes to Windhoek on a field trip to show them that the world is greater than just the town of Rehoboth. For many of them it was their fired time to Windhoek. The trip was an overall success with only a few minor delays and setbacks. We went to Hero’s Acre, The State House, Parliament, NamWater, University of Namibia (UNAM) and then ice cream. I was not allowed in The State House due to the fact that I am not a Namibian citizen. My favorite place was NamWater the water utility for Namibia. They were exceptionally kind donating 10 computers to the school and giving food to all the learners and teachers. They also offered me a job when I made an offhand remark about having a degree in chemistry and looking for a job. I don’t plan on taking it, but still, it was nice to get the offer.

So my roommate showed up a few weeks ago and she’s pretty cool. After living alone for several weeks it feels weird having someone else around sometimes. I can’t play my music as loud as possible anymore or walk around naked. Not that I would actually want to, it’s freezing, but still it’s nice to have the option. My puppy should be arriving this Friday and I think I’ve decided on the name my friend Martin gave me, “Ernest Rufferford”. This is a play on Ernest Rutherford the famous chemist/physicist who theorized about neutrons.

Last weekend we had Christmas in June in Mariental. Almost 20 volunteers got together to eat chicken, stuffing, macaroni and cheese, and egg nog. We had a gift exchange that was entertaining with everyone going for different types of gifts. Some people gave funny, others gave useful, and other just gave the universal gift of alcohol. This coming weekend I’m going to Gobabis for a Fourth of July Bar-B-Que. Here in Namibia a BBQ is often called a braai but because it’s Fourth of July we are making hamburgers and having a BBQ.

As far as school goes I’m working on a secondary project because my teaching load has been lightened by Mitra (the roommate/other volunteer) which is taking some time to get off the ground. We are having a entrepreneurship day/HIV awareness carnival. My job is to make sure each class has an item to sell and collects $N500. My garden hasn’t been able to take off the ground yet and has suffered another delay because of poor timing. Many of my weekends are full and same with my counterpart Mrs. Pretorius. I think in August we will start clearing the space and in September or October we will start planting. We want to plant before rainy season but not so early that there is no water and everything dies. So far I’m just playing it by ear.

Ps mmmm… bacon

This week I came across information that changed my life. Nay, it changed my world view! This week I came to the realization that hash browns were merely chopped up potatoes that I could easily make myself. With this newly discovered knowledge I made breakfast, scrambles eggs, sausage, hash browns, and a banana. Now I know it sounds crazy to be so excited over a simple breakfast. Some of you might even be saying “Rob we don’t care about breakfast, tell us about Africa.” But I argue that breakfast is the most important meal of the day and I’d be useless here if I didn’t start my morning off right. When I eat a good breakfast, I exercise more, and think about December when I come home and next April when I summit Kilimanjaro. Oh yeah, a group of us might be going to Kilimanjaro next April. But until I finalize all these plans, I like to focus on the little things like breakfast.

As far as teaching (and everything else in my life) there have been remarkably few changes. Our school has had a discipline problem lately. Discipline problems here are mostly dealt with by corporal punishment. I talked to some of the teachers about why they use a “stick.” They said it was because these learners don’t understand anything else. They also told me at other schools they didn’t need to use corporal punishment. They are under the impression that this area just has worse discipline than other areas and needs more drastic measures.

I like my new schedule because I teach less often and have more time to practice the piano and surf the internet at school. My new roommate is suppose to show up on Monday and the dog won’t be here for several weeks. I have narrowed my list of dog names down to two: Schrodinger or Optimus Prime. I also wondered if my new roommate would have a problem with a dog. Then I realize the roommate will only be here for 6 weeks after the dog gets here and I don’t care, unless the roommate is allergic or something. Then I would give the dog to Mrs. Pretorius to take care of for a few weeks and I would just come over and play with the dog every day.

Also it’s pretty cold here these days. Some mornings when I get up there is frost on the ground. I saw a dead horse lying on the side of the road one morning. It looked like it froze to death in the middle of the night. I feel bad for the female learners because they have to wear school uniforms that involve skirts. They’re allowed to wear pants if they are the school approved uniform pants but most of my learners either can’t afford it or have parents who simply don’t want to pay for it. Needless to say I went out and bought a space heater for my bedroom and some good winter blankets and clothes.

On a very positive note my sister got to meet the Obamas and I’ve been bragging to all my Peace Corps friends about it ever since.

School “started” back up last Monday. My school has a serious problem with learners taking extra vacation days. The first three days of school we didn’t change classes but instead just took roll. Out of my class of 25 we only had 13 learners. I also spoke with my head of department; I am no longer a register teacher for my fifth graders. Peace Corps doesn’t want us to be register teachers because they are supposed to follow the learners through several years of school. We can, at most, follow the learners for two years. He also changed my entire schedule by giving my favorite class (tenth grade math and physical science) to the other teachers and giving me another grade eight math class.

The other big news is that a World Teach volunteer is coming to my school to help out in the computer lab for three months. The World Teach volunteer will also be staying in the spare bedroom in my flat. I’m excited to have a little more company. It is highly recommended that Peace Corps volunteers don’t go out at night due to the statistically higher probability of being robbed. It’s winter now so by 5:30pm I have to be in my flat. Essentially I have no life and go to bed around 9pm. Also, it’s really cold at night. Every night is probably in the 30’s or 40’s and my flat has no heater or insulation. It’s not a problem because I have a nice sleeping bag. The problem comes in trying to get up at 530am while simultaneously trying to stay in my nice warm sleeping bag.

My travels this last holiday break began in Gobabis for my friend Martin’s birthday. After a few days hanging out in Gobabis I went back to Rehoboth to meet up with some friends. We took day trips to Windhoek for Zambian visas and other necessities. On Friday April 29th we went to Windhoek, saw a movie, and boarded the Intercape bus system. The Intercape is a business that sends charter buses all through southern Africa. Twenty three hours later I arrived in Livingstone Zambia. The following day myself, Edward, Sam, and Quinn went into Botswana on the Chobe National Preserve safari. The morning was a boat safari along the Chobe River where we say hippos, impalas, crocodiles, elephants, and a whole host of other animals. It was the most expensive part of my journey and well worth every penny. We were given lunch at a really nice lodge and then preceded to the car safari. In the car safari we got to see all the same animals except much closer. We also got to see lions but they were too far away to get a good picture.

The following I went with Barbara, Quinn, and Sam to the Zimbabwe side of Victoria Falls. Victoria Falls is one of the greatest things I have ever seen in my life. My favorite part was called Eastern Cataract and was not for weak hearted. In this area there are no barriers to keep you from the falls and we actually walked out on a cropping of rocks, slippery with algae. I describe that area as standing in the middle of a tropical storm because of the force of the wind and rain. It was nearly impossible to see the falls through the mist but if you stood there long enough the mist would dissipate for a few seconds and a view of the entire falls would appear. While standing there I’m pretty sure my brain exploded.

The next day we traveled to the Zambia side of Victoria Falls. This side had several hiking trails that we did, and a large craft market. I went with Nikki and Sam, and the scariest thing that happened was when a baboon charged us. So many people come to the area with food in their backpack that if you open your backpack, the baboons will charge you and try to steal food. And trust me; it’s terrifying when they come right at you.

I needed a break, so the next day I stayed around Livingstone and I got a pair of pants made out of a chetenge. A chetenge is a traditional African clothe/skirt that many of the guys got made into pants and the girls use it as skirts. My last morning was spent in a constant state of terror as our group prepared to go bungee jumping in front of Victoria Falls. I did not bungee jump. I zip lined from Zambia to Zimbabwe. A feat not easily accomplished by me due to an extreme fear of heights. In the afternoon our entire group (about 20 people) went on a final cruise. I then ventured back to Rehoboth after the craziest week of my life.

My travels this last holiday break began in Gobabis for my friend Martin’s birthday. After a few days hanging out in Gobabis I went back to Rehoboth to meet up with some friends. We took day trips to Windhoek for Zambian visas and other necessities. On Friday April 29th we went to Windhoek, saw a movie, and boarded the Intercape bus system. The Intercape is a business that sends charter buses all through southern Africa. Twenty three hours later I arrived in Livingstone Zambia. The following day myself, Edward, Sam, and Quinn went into Botswana on the Chobe National Preserve safari. The morning was a boat safari along the Chobe River where we say hippos, impalas, crocodiles, elephants, and a whole host of other animals. It was the most expensive part of my journey and well worth every penny. We were given lunch at a really nice lodge and then preceded to the car safari. In the car safari we got to see all the same animals except much closer. We also got to see lions but they were too far away to get a good picture.

The following I went with Barbara, Quinn, and Sam to the Zimbabwe side of Victoria Falls. Victoria Falls is one of the greatest things I have ever seen in my life. My favorite part was called Eastern Cataract and was not for weak hearted. In this area there are no barriers to keep you from the falls and we actually walked out on a cropping of rocks, slippery with algae. I describe that area as standing in the middle of a tropical storm because of the force of the wind and rain. It was nearly impossible to see the falls through the mist but if you stood there long enough the mist would dissipate for a few seconds and a view of the entire falls would appear. While standing there I’m pretty sure my brain exploded.

The next day we traveled to the Zambia side of Victoria Falls. This side had several hiking trails that we did, and a large craft market. I went with Nikki and Sam, and the scariest thing that happened was when a baboon charged us. So many people come to the area with food in their backpack that if you open your backpack, the baboons will charge you and try to steal food. And trust me; it’s terrifying when they come right at you.

I needed a break, so the next day I stayed around Livingstone and I got a pair of pants made out of a chetenge. A chetenge is a traditional African clothe/skirt that many of the guys got made into pants and the girls use it as skirts. My last morning was spent in a constant state of terror as our group prepared to go bungee jumping in front of Victoria Falls. I did not bungee jump. I zip lined from Zambia to Zimbabwe. A feat not easily accomplished by me due to an extreme fear of heights. In the afternoon our entire group (about 20 people) went on a final cruise. I then ventured back to Rehoboth after the craziest week of my life.

Dear World,

I have replaced the greatest fear that one can conquer. I have stood among, the winds whirling around me, the force of a storm splattering against my face, and felt nothing but the unbelievable beauty, that soaked me in the misty rain. I have tried, in multiple attempts, to explain, how amazing life is along the Zambeza River/Victoria Falls. As much as I have tried to explain things in words, I simply cannot. There aren’t enough words in any language to describe it. I am however, exceptionally proud of my buddy Shane. Who now has been nominated for Guinea Peace Corps. I wish him the best, and may be visiting him at some point soon.

A long time ago my brothers and I were known as “Those damn Neiberger boys.” Like many kids there were several adjectives associated with us, the nicest of these were things like “adventurous” and “Rambunctious,” the worst (and more common) was things like “pugnacious” and “a terror in my classroom.” A friend of mine once told me, during a Boy Scout meeting, that his parents had, at one point, forbid him from playing with us on the church playground because we were too rough. Elementary school, for us, was a time of rough housing and fighting. However we were lucky enough to miss the Ritalin craze of the late 90’s and early 2000’s and just enjoy our fighting. Eventually my brothers and I all used sports as an outlet for our aggression and what a great outlet it was. Now let me tell you; there were teachers who wanted the three of us to be on ADD medication or at least mild sedation. I would love those teachers, psychiatrists, and concerned parents to look at my learners. My learners don’t often listen to me or anyone else. Some of their favorite games involve punching each other in middle of my class. Another game is slightly like dodge ball but instead of teams throwing big red balls at each other they throw anything that is available. It could be a dirty sock or it could be a rock. Whatever is available. It reminds me of a game that we use to play in our neighborhood called “Pinecone War,” where we would throw pinecones at each other as hard as we could. Although it is usually infuriating when my learners do these things while I’m teaching, I find I often have more in common with 5th and 6th grade learners than I do with many of the kids back in the states. It could be one reason why I hate kids, with the exception of my amazing niece Gabby. That kid is adorable.

Namibian Independence Day was celebrated with a three day weekend since my last post. Myself and the other volunteers in southern Namibia (we call ourselves “southies”) got together in Mariental for good food and a few good laughs. There were about twelve of us in total but not everyone showed up. After meeting all of these people from different places in The States; I’ve come to a conclusion about Peace Corps. Every volunteer is a varying degree of insane, or at least the volunteers who make it as long as we have, the sane ones leave before being here too long. We are an unusual mosh-posh of thrill seekers, idealists, and weirdos. I have a joke here that I keep saying “In August I came to Africa with 44 of my best and only friends.” Sadly that number has dwindled because two people in our group left and there are people from my group that I won’t see until we get on a plane to go back to the states. Now I’m in Africa with about 15 of my best and only friends. Now don’t get me wrong. I am very happy here. I fit in with all the craziness. But sometimes in life you just have to sit back and laugh at the absurdity of the situation you’re in. Here I am in Rehoboth Namibia, trying to educate nearly unmanageable children whose parents are likely abusive alcoholics, I spend at least 20 minutes a day breaking up fights, I have been cursed at in multiple languages for nothing more than being white, I sleep on a bed that is likely giving me back problems, and every now and then I start randomly vomiting from food I am given that either wasn’t cooked or stored (or both) properly. Yet, I am here and perfectly happy with my life. Yeah I’m pretty sure I’m insane…

It’s been a few weeks since I’ve written a blog post but teaching full time is exceptionally time consuming. Last week my school had control tests. A control test is when the administration forces all math, science, and English teachers to give a test at specific times. It was annoying because I had already given tests the previous week and had to write (make) new tests and grade five classes of tests this week. It was a pain but I got everything done.

This week I was in Okahandja at a Peace Corps seminar on gardening. I have never had a garden before but I managed to grow an onion by throwing rotten onion out of my kitchen window. I have a small area next to my flat that has space for my garden. It won’t be very big but I will be able to grow a few things for myself and maybe a few others. The first part of the seminar was about microgardening with hydroponics. This method is not very feasible for most of the group because it requires a lot of trips to Windhoek to get the supplies and all. The second part of the seminar had a former Peace Corps Volunteer (from Haiti in the 80’s) who explained permagardening, which is a form of permaculture. He showed us how to make these small gardens that are extremely high yield by double digging the soil and using basic rain capturing techniques. It’s pretty cool and my counterpart Dawn became more interested in doing this at the TRC where I live and at various schools and aid relief programs. I’m pretty excited about these gardens too. It’s going to be a lot of work but it would be nice to get the garden going and have a few trial runs before I attempt this at my house. Not my parents house but the someday imaginary house that I have in mind which includes a brewery in the basement and now a garden in the backyard.

This was a pretty tough week. Since we finally have our official time table for the school year I had to adjust several lessons to classes I wasn’t expecting or completely prepared to teach. It was a headache for Monday and Tuesday but it got slightly better as the week went on. I do not care for my schedule much because it is very heavy at the beginning of the week and lighter towards the end of the week. For instance, I teach eight straight periods on Tuesday without a break, and seven on Wednesday without a break. But it is not all bad, my school finally has internet and I will start bringing my laptop on certain days so I can check my email without getting up at 4am.

This week was also hectic because of the athletics (track and field) meet that was held Friday and Saturday. I was a time keeper for the high schools and spent most about 10.5 hours taking measurements of people running various distances. It was boring as can possibly be. The exciting part was watching the learners collapse. This happened for multiple reasons. The athletes train for maybe three or four weeks before the meet and are not usually in the best of shape because several times practices are cancelled for rain or learners simply don’t show up. Also, no drinks water at the meet because “it makes them throw up”. I tried explaining simple hydration techniques but no one really listened. Several got bad cramps and had to quit competing. It’s actually pretty scary to have an athlete collapse about 10 feet from the finish line and then be carried under a tent and rubbed with a wet cloth, by the hundredth or so time though you get pretty used to it.

I’ve determined Namibia has four basic seasons: winter, summer, rainy season, and second summer. Summer is characterized by near 100 degrees temperatures everyday and nearly no cloud cover. We are now entering second summer. Most days are very hot with very very blue skies. The occasional evening or night time shower occurs but this happens rarely. The nights are getting colder and come winter (sometimes in April or May) it will be close to freezing at night and 50’s or 60’s during the day.

This week I started a competition among my tenth graders to get them to do their homework and be good in class. They’re very excited and the reward is a movie, food, and drink at “Kayak” the after school place for the winning group. There was a massive rainstorm this week and the next morning when I went to my host family’s house for a ride to school (I can’t ride my bike when the roads are flooded) and there was a new ten foot wide river running in front of the neighborhood. After that storm it didn’t rain for two days. I like the rain better.

I started taking Afrikaans lessons again with my colleague’s thirteen year old daughter. It’s very humbling to be taught by a thirteen year old and a little annoying. I’m hoping to be fluent within a few months. We finally have a time table (schedule) that starts on Monday. My subject package includes grade 10 math and physical science, grade 8 math and physical science, grade 5-7 ICT and grade 5 religious and moral education. I’m not sure what to teach for religious education, especially to children who can’t seem to stop punching each other.

Three weeks into the trimester and still no complete time table (schedule). We have a MWF time table and a TR time table but our school is on a five day rotation which means there is a different schedule everyday so the learners can get to all the classes they have. For instance math is five days a week but science is only four days a week, but a learner might also take a once a week computer class. The schedule allows for more subjects to be taken but it’s not always efficient. I also found out this week that the other computer teacher teaches classes in the computer lab at the same time I teach grade five ICT, meaning that I am supposed to teach computer classes without a computer. I asked my HOD and he said I can do whatever I want with my grade fives. I am a babysitter for two classes every day. This realization originally annoyed me but I’ve found benefits in being a babysitter. One benefit is that I don’t actually have to teach so I just play games with the kids. I have them draw pictures, play heads up seven up, or let them play on the playground. It makes life easier less frustrating when I’m not teaching them.

I gave my grade eight class a math quiz and it didn’t go well. In Namibia if a learner fails a grade twice they are “transferred” to the next grade. The problem with this is you have learners in grade eight who haven’t passed a class since grade four. My school doesn’t allow learners to “transfer” after grade eight. The only way into grade nine is by passing grade eight. I helped out with Athletics (track and field) practice most of the week which was good but I couldn’t exercise by myself which is something I really enjoy doing. I learned I’m not very good with a javelin or coaching children how to throw a javelin. My bike tire got punctured by a rock, or broken glass or any number other sharp objects along the roads. I took the tube out, found the hole, and patched it up. It wasn’t nearly as difficult as I thought it would be. Now I need to find how to stop the gears from making funny noises and slipping. Lots of rain this week.

I cook a lot now and I’m determined to be an excellent chef by the time I come back to the states. Everything I make is from scratch. If I want pizza, I make the sauce, the dough, cut the toppings, cook the meat, and grate the cheese, all by myself. Not the most difficult of dishes but really tasty. I’ve started experimenting with new foods though. I never really made breakfast in the states and now I can make pancakes and omelets. We have a Peace Corps cookbook and I’ve gone through and highlighted the different foods I want to make. The only problem is that sometimes the recipes are wrong and you have to remake the food with changes to the recipe. I had a cookie disaster with my cookies I was making for my host mom’s birthday but in the end I amended the recipe to work.

This week I started officially teaching classes though the time table (schedule) is not completely finished even by the end of the week. My school roughly had 750 learners last year and this year we have around 650. No one is quite sure why but we think more will show up sooner or later. So far on my schedule I get to teach tenth grade physical science, eighth grade math and physical science, and grades five through seven Internet communication technologies (ICT). Here instead of being a subject teacher, everyone just teaches whatever is needed whether or not they are actually qualified for it. Because the time table isn’t finished we’ve been using the same schedule everyday and just waiting until later to use a schedule and teach real lessons.

This hasn’t been too bad except for teaching the fifth graders ICT. The normal ICT teacher is in South Africa because he daughter started school in Johannesburg. I have no syllabus (syllabi are developed by the ministry of education and given to the teachers) and no one to ask what I should teach the learners. Because of a complete lack of preparation for the learners I have not allowed them on the computers and mostly end up babysitting the most rambunctious children for two class periods every day. It is not enjoyable though my older learners are excellent and I really enjoy them. I sought advice from other teachers at school, they replied “You must get a stick and hit them,” for multiple reasons this advice was ignored. Discipline with the younger learners is difficult. They are under the impression that if I don’t hit them they are doing nothing wrong. I’ve talked to other Peace Corps Volunteers and they have given me some advice but they mostly say it will just take time for them to get use to your style. My head of department tells me that when he writes the actual schedule I will not have the fifth graders and will likely only teach grades eight and higher, until then it’s just hang on and hope for the best.

On a more positive note I had several people over this past weekend for a house warming dinner. It was a lot of fun sitting around and discussing our first two weeks of real work with some of the older volunteers who went through the same thing last year. Also the food was wonderful. I made pizzas for people and the second night Martin made tortillas and we had beef curry tortillas. It was pretty delicious. We also had scrambled eggs and pancakes Sunday morning. If you couldn’t tell getting together and eating real food is very important to the sanity of a Volunteer.

“Electrolytes, what plants crave.”

This quote comes from the movie Idiocracy. It comes from a discussion that is flawed cyclical logic. The quote is appropriate for the first week of school.

We don’t have a schedule (called a time table here) because not all the learners are registered, the learners can’t register until their school fees are paid, they can’t pay school fees until the school opens, the school opens on the first day of school, where there is no schedule because the learners haven’t registered.

Anyhow that’s enough complaining for now. It will all get sorted out within a week or two. Until then I play the piano, read my textbooks, look for experiments I can do without chemicals, and work on getting the school internet. Getting the school internet has been successful so far. I went with my head of department (HOD) and vice principal to the store and talked to them about school options and government stipends for internet. Within a week or two the school will have internet and I will no longer need to get up at 4am to use it for free. I went to Gobabis a few weeks ago. Its 200km east of Windhoek and is one of the more beautiful areas I have seen so far. I forgot my camera and it’s still not working very well so there are no pictures of the journey. I’ve started a exercising everyday and convinced my vice principal to ride his bike to school with me, about 4km on dirt roads.

It’s been raining nearly every day around three in the afternoon. It reminds me of Florida in the summer time. My host mom’s Birthday was the 22nd and I made cookies for her. I found out that the cookie recipe in my Peace Corps cook book isn’t very good and needed modification. But like a true scientist I experimented until I came out with good cookies and the family was very impressed.

I returned to Rehoboth from the Namibian Coast on January 1st 2011. I had spent two weeks camping in a tent on the beach and my clothes, and myself, were disgusting. But the trip was completely amazing. I met up with my Rehoboth host family in Henties Bay. The following day I rode with them up to the campground at mile marker 72. It is 72 miles north of Swakopmund and only campgrounds along this one road are measured in miles. Everything else in the entire country is measured in kilometers. I spent five days camping and fishing with them. My host dad (and supervisor) Harry caught a 10 kilogram fish. I don’t remember what type of fish it was but it was nearly the size and a person’s torso. They also prepared a delicacy for me called a “smiley”. This is where you eat the face and brain of a sheep. Honestly it didn’t taste bad, except for the brain, which was pretty gross.

On the 23rd I went down to Swakopmund to meet up with fellow Peace Corps Volunteers from my group and other groups. Swakopmund is by far the oddest place in Africa. It is essentially a German town on the east coast of Namibia. The signs for restaurants are in Afrikaans, English, and German. This is the richest city in Namibia and apparently where Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie sometimes vacation. It is a complete contrast to everything that I have seen in the rest of the country. Rich South Africans like to vacation there for Christmas because of the mild climate. They also like to talk about how Namibia was better under South African control, and apartheid. Yeah I heard a lot of racist comments over the course of my vacation, but that’s a story for another time. I was happy when I received a call on the 24th (my birthday) from my family and got to talk to everyone for a little bit. It was a short phone call but it was wonderful to hear everyone’s voice.

On Christmas day we exchanged gifts in a secret springbok (secret Santa) fashion. Everyone seemed pretty happy with their gifts even if it was for someone they had never met before. We had a campfire on the beach and most people were received calls from friends and family. It was a good Christmas.

On the 28th myself and 19 others rented two bakkies (covered pickup trucks) and drove north to Cape Cross to see the seal reservation. That night we camped on the beach near a shipwreck. We watched a gorgeous sunset behind the shipwreck and built another campfire. The next day we broke camp early and drove south to Walvis Bay which is the third largest city in Namibia. It is an industrial shipping port and commercial fishing area. We didn’t spent much time in the city, only enough to get great seafood and free crab claws from this little take out place that sold oysters for N$3.50 (about $0.50) per oyster. We then drove a little bit further south to Dune 7, the largest sand dune in Namibia (and maybe the world but I’m not actually sure of that). All 20 of us climbed the dune and that was where my camera got too much sand in it and stopped working. After Dune 7 we drove to the salt mines near there and then back to Swakopmund because we only rented the trucks for 24 hours. I did get to drive however and it was awesome driving on the left side of the road.

Once back in Swakopmund I had a quiet few days, I watched a few movies with friends and ate too much food. I had a quiet New Years Eve because I stopped celebrating New Years a few years ago (long story) and barely made it to midnight. I got up around 7am, packed up all my things, and went to get a hike back to Rehoboth. It was a great trip but after a certain point in every vacation I always feel like getting back and getting to work. I have a few New Years’ resolutions: stop cracking my knuckles and neck, I do it way too often. Start and finish the P90 workout series, which I started today. And learn to play the piano better. I have received a few books from my parents and my school has a piano for me to practice on.

Reconnect is a part of Peace Corps training where after six weeks at site a group (in my case group 32) meets at a designated location and discusses aspects of their first six weeks on the job. The discussion includes Namibian culture, social norms, education practices, language training, HIV forum, and general Peace Corps policy guidelines. The lectures themselves were not particularly interesting but it was good to see everyone from my group again and trade stories from our various sites. In my group there are three people located in the south, about seven or eight in central and roughly 30 people in the northern part of the country. I happen to be one of the three in the south so I don’t often see people from my group. The reason for so many volunteers being in the north is because during apartheid that’s where the Ovambo people were forced to live. There are other tribes in the north but the “red line” was specifically to keep the Ovambo in the north and the “coloureds” and “Afrikaners” in the south.

For Peace Corps reasons I cannot tell you the town we met in or the hotel we met at, but I will try to describe it. Just outside of the city we turned down a dusty dirt road. The three kilometer ride was uncomfortable and slow. The faster the driver hit rocks and pot holes, the harder we would be thrown around inside the combie (van). After a steep climb we arrived at a hotel on the top of a mountain. The view was breath taking. Looking north from the lobby a mountain range sprang forth for 15 or so kilometers. From the top of our mountain, near our bedrooms, to the west were a few mountains followed by a 30-40 kilometer valley and then another mountain range. The sunset from outside my bedroom was spectacular. To the east lay a road slicing through the mountain range we were on, and several more mountains. The south was first sprawling city slums that turns into suburbia, then transforming into a metropolitan downtown. The mountains have turned green with plant life due to the recent rains and underground tributaries reminding me of Central America. On a few occasions we were privileged enough to watch a few lightning storms rage in the mountains to the north.

I am now back in Rehoboth and moved into my new two bedroom flat (apartment). I have been busy this week preparing to live in it for the next two years. I posted a video of the place on facebook for people to view. Ironically it is much nicer than the dorms I have been staying in for the last five years. December 18th I will start my holiday travels. It seems almost the entire country shuts down for the month of December. We have all been given two weeks of free vacation for domestic travel and I have decided to take advantage of it by going to Swakopmund, Heinte’s Bay, the Skeleton Coast, and maybe Luderuitz. These are all coastal areas and I miss the beach. Due to the accommodations I will not be taking my computer with me because I will be living in a tent, either with other volunteers or with my host family, but still in a tent. For security reasons I am leaving most of my valuables with other people or in my place.

This week was pretty slow. The school year ended this past Thursday for the learners but the teachers are still working on marking final exams and preparing the schedule for next year. I was delivered a package that is actually for another Peace Corps volunteer, I’m told this is fairly common in you’re in an urban area like I am. On Saturday I hiked up a hill with Ricky and Barbara. My dog followed us, I’m not sure why dogs here love me so much but they definitely follow me everywhere. The town looks completely different now that it’s been raining a bit. The trees are green and there are actual grasses instead of just sand. I forgot to mention that last weekend our group met a Polish man who biking from Cape Town back to Europe. He had already gone through Asia, made his way to Australia, biked Australia, and sailed from Australia to Cape Town. He had some great pictures of his journey.

On Thanksgiving I talked with my parents via skype. It was really good to hear their voices though I didn’t get to see them. Sunday I leave for Reconnect which is more Peace Corps training. I will meet up with all of the people from my group and discuss different aspects of teaching and Namibian culture, as well as share our experiences for the first six weeks. I am not bringing my laptop and will be out of contact for those two weeks.

I called my dad this week for his birthday and had a nice talk with my parents for about ten minutes. It also rained nearly every day past week. I miss the rain a bit but it also gets annoying when you don’t have a car and have to either bike or walk everywhere you go. Also the power goes out for a few hours when it rains. I managed go to a barber and get a haircut similar to how it was in the states instead of just shaving my head like I have been. This is a big deal because we had one guy in Okahandja get a haircut that turned into a disaster and he had to shave his head. It turned out well and I even got a free shave out of it.

I invigilated (proctored) a test this week and taught some sixth grade math. I noticed the learners I was teaching could multiply and add pretty well but had serious problems with division and subtraction. I will test these skills my first week next year to see about remediation. The learners were hesitant with me at first but quickly warmed up to me. It was nice. I also marked (graded) exams for the science classes this week. It was slow but I used to grade for a professor so it’s nothing new.

This past Friday Caitlin and I got a combie (van) ride down to Keetmansoop for “Thanksgiving.” They aren’t many volunteers in the south, and those who are there are very spread out, so we don’t get together very often. It was nice to meet people I had been texting with since coming to Namibia. It was a nice enough ride down but there is a whole lot of nothing in the south. We could see several kilometers of nothing but brown plants and sand on both sides of the van. But we made it down to Keetmansoop and ate lots of food, it was amazing.

PS if you were wondering, Movember is when you go the month of November without shaving your mustache.

This proved to be an interesting week with most of the teachers in Windhoek grading tests the teachers mostly reviewed material with the learners or the learners started exams. Once exams started there was less for me to do than usual so I played the piano every day for several hours and helped out writing memos (answer keys) and marking (grading) exams. Luckily Mr. Bock came back on Wednesday so I had my buddy back to talk about music. He is impressed with how much better I have gotten at piano. On Thursday I bought a bike and biked over to Mr. Bock’s house for “band practice.” He has a dream of getting paid to play shows, coffee houses and hotels mostly, whereas I mostly just like having someone around to jam with. It would be awesome to play shows eventually though.

On Monday a group of young adults from Cape Town came to our school to dance to Christian music and perform dramatic skits for grades 7-9. These were people from Europe and Africa, though the group was out of Cape Town. I had an interesting discussion with some colleagues about whether or not it is wise to have the learners distracted right before exams when they should be studying. Most agreed that the dance group was a bad idea but no one knew whose idea it was for them to come.

I realized how incredibly out of shape I am when I rode my bike to the Oanob dam and nearly died of exhaustion on the way up the first hill. I biked about 16km round trip in an hour and a half going up and down hills on an uneven gravel road. I will get back in shape eventually.

It rained this week for the second time since I’ve been in Africa. I miss the rain. I enjoy reading and listening to the rain, it’s very calming. This week I didn’t have any credit on my 3G (internet works similar to a go phone) so I couldn’t post this over the weekend. Next weekend I will be in Keetmansoop for “Thanksgiving”. We can’t all get together on Thanksgiving Day so most of the volunteers in the south are getting together the weekend before to hangout. It should be fun.

This week four of the teachers were in Windhoek for marking (grading) tests from all over Namibia. In tenth grade the learners take a standardized test (similar to FCAT) and if they pass they continue to high school. If they fail they stay in tenth grade or some drop out. Consequently the standardized test is tied into funding, thus making a problem similar to Florida where the schools that do well get more money and attract better teachers whereas the schools that do poorly get less money and continue to do poorly. Schools are allowed to regulate who is in tenth grade. This means that out of the four classes of 9th graders I will get only one tenth grade class of thirty learners. The oldest learner in 9th grade is 20 and the youngest is 14. Anyhow the teachers mark tests from all over the country in Windhoek. With so many teachers gone, the ones who have remained are not teaching so much as they are monitoring six hours of study hall. This gives me very little to do during the day. The learners start taking end of the year exams this week too, which will give me plenty of time for reading and piano.

I’ve decided on Monday I’m going to go to the library and see if I can get someone to tutor me in Afrikaans. I understand Afrikaans pretty well but I have difficulty speaking it. Most of the teachers at my school are more interested in teaching me KKG than Afrikaans and no one at my house is interested in helping me out.

I went to Rehoboth spa with Ricky, Sara from Kalkran, and Sara’s afterschool project Kayec. It wasn’t a spa as much as a pool but it is where everyone around my age hangs out on Saturdays apparently. So I may be hanging out there more often.

Ricky, one of the other volunteers in Rehoboth, taught Pieter Geingob (one of the teachers at my school) a little bit of Spanish. Pieter now always greets me in Spanish and I have taught him a little bit more. One day while I was in his class he greeted me in Spanish and I replied in Spanish. One of the learners overhead this exchange and asked me “How do you say ‘tree’ in your mother tongue?” I was really confused by this question. She had to ask it two more times before it was clear that she wanted to know how to say tree in Spanish. Here English is only spoken at school or official functions and everyone speaks at least one other language. At my school their mother tongue is KKG and they all speak Afrikaans and English as second languages. It was really interesting because the learner believes that English is only spoken in schools and is not people’s mother tongue.

Starting November 12th the schools begin exams, and if there was little productive work for me to do these past two weeks, there will be nothing for me to do until November 29th when I go to reconnect. I spend most of my time playing piano and studying Afrikaans. It is a surprisingly difficult language when you’re starting to be conversational in the language. Also this week I started exercising more to try and keep from losing muscle mass. Caitlin and Barbara came into town this week. We hung out at Ricky’s apartment and just watched movies and traded funny stories from site.

Some people have asked about food so here is general diet. At 4am I get up to use the internet, around 6am I have a cup of tea with milk and sugar. At 830am I have a sandwich, usually butter and meat paste, I have a second sandwich around 10am. I eat lunch at 1pm and it’s usually some type of meat and carb, rice or more sandwiches with butter on the bread. I eat dinner around 7pm and it’s usually rice or pasta, meat, bread with butter, cool drink (soda or juice) and maybe a small dessert made of carrot slices mayonnaise and sugar. I eat all the food given and often get additional food but that is the typical diet for most people in Rehoboth.

This week I started working at Vooruitsig (pronounced: for-ate-seg) Junior Secondary School. At the school they teach grades from preschool up to tenth grade. I’ve been working with the grade 9 math and science teachers mostly. Over the past week the students have become accustomed to my presence in their class and around the school. The importance of the learners becoming use to me cannot be understated; both as an American and a white person the learners have many misconceptions about both. It is easy to see how the Apartheid has affected many of the people in the school. I haven’t been teaching classes and most of the learners are either writing exams (taking exams) or preparing to write exams over the next few weeks. School ends the first week of December so there is very little for me to do. I spent a significant amount of time talking with my vice principal Mr. Bock (Phillip) about music. He too is a guitarist. I showed him my guitar books and let him borrow two of them. He also used to play rugby professionally and if Namibia had been an independent country he could have played for the national team. We have decided that we will get together and jam out sometime. He also showed the upright piano no one uses, that is locked away in a storage closet and mostly forgotten. I started playing around on it a little and everyone seemed pretty impressed. I now bring in my guitar books and play simple chords with my left hand and the melody with my right. I’m not very good but I haven’t played in at least 10 years and I’m definitely getting better. I also spend a lot of time with Mr. Tsumaseb, (don’t pronounce the “T”) a younger teacher who use to be very active in fundraising and community involvement until several disagreements with his supervisors discouraged him. After speaking with him I have a few ideas for secondary projects that we can work on together, like bake sales, vending machines, and other community involvement ideas. By working closely with a Namibian my projects will hopefully continue even after I leave.

This week myself, Caitlin, and Ricky walked the seven kilometers to the entrance of Lake Oanob to look at the animals. We saw a lot of zebras, springboks, ostriches, and one thing that looked like an odd cross between a donkey and a zebra. I’m not sure if a zebra and a donkey or horse can have a child, but it definitely looked liked a hybrid of the two. There will be pictures to come at some point.

This past Tuesday was our language proficiency test. I scored intermediate high which is a pretty good score. I’ve become a lot better at understanding Afrikaans but when I try to speak it my accent is terrible. I’m going to get a language tutor and keep working on it so I can become fluent. Friday was swearing in day and it was a lot like graduation. There were education ministers, Peace Corps directors, but the ambassador to Namibia was not able to make it though they had a representative from the ambassador’s office. There were speeches and it was a relatively uneventful ceremony. The best part was the Okahandja Children’s Choir singing. They were phenomenal. After the ceremony I said a few quick “see you laters” and left with my supervisor, who is now my new host father.

On Saturday in Rehoboth (my new city) I met up with Debbie (group 29 health volunteer) Maureen and Ricky (group 31 health volunteers) who are all stationed in Rehoboth. I also met Emily who is in the Cavongo region, another group 31 volunteer. We talked and ate most of the evening before Ricky and I walked back to block D and departed ways. In six weeks I will be leaving my second homestay in block D and moving into a two bedroom flat at the teacher resource center (TRC).

This week we were split into groups and sent to co-plan, and co-teach, in schools around Okahandja. I was sent with Sarah and Lauren to Aurora Primary School to assist with sixth and seventh grade natural science. On Monday I had to observe Mr. Mbanga (pronounced Bonga). He’s a pretty good teacher and has excellent classroom management without beating the learners (students) or yelling a lot. We co-planned a lesson on electricity for me to teach on Wednesday, because Tuesday was international teachers’ day and there were no classes. Wednesday Mr. Mbanga was absent so I was pawned off onto another teacher for the day. Mr. Ronnie is another good teacher and he showed me the school free lunch program and where they make the maize meal. Thursday Mr. Mbanga was dealing with administrative paperwork and asked me to teach his first and second period. I had planned for sixth graders and these were seventh grade classes. I walked in front of the classroom and started talking about electricity hoping they would know a little already and I can just supplement anything else I wanted to. It worked pretty well, though the topics were a little random and scattered. Mr. Mbanga came in for third period and we co-taught the rest of the day. He would introduce the lesson and talk to the learners, then I would have the class’s attention for how to build a circuit, then he would summarize and close. It was very effective. Friday the seventh graders were cleaning up a foot path and Mr. Mbanga went with them. I was supposed to teach sixth graders at third period but half of the staff was absent (either at the clean up or at teacher training) and I was particularly unmotivated. As I walked out of my second period class I ran into Angelika, one of the Peace Corps supervisors, and she asked if she could sit in on my class. I ended up teaching the entire lesson with Angelika and Sarah observing me. It was actually really helpful and I got some good feedback from them.

The other important event of the week was rain. It rained for the first time I’ve been here last week. There was a large lightning storm, I went outside to watch it and was instantly sand blasted. I decided to just listen to the rain on the tin roof and fall peacefully asleep. It was awesome. Oh and I weigh about 72 kilos (160lbs) now. I attribute this change to a lack of good pizza and beer. Combine that with walking multiple miles every day and it is ridiculously easy to lose weight. I will probably gain some when I go to site and start cooking for myself.

This coming Tuesday we have our language proficiency test. I think I will do pretty well, Afrikaans is a pretty easy language and very similar to English. I’ll still spend most of Sunday and Monday studying though. Next Friday is the swearing in ceremony and then it’s off to Rehoboth for the next two years. I’m really excited and want this week to go by fast.

On Saturday I was walking with some other PCTs into town from our suburb. My tiny dog that I affectionately refer to as “shit-kicker” (real name kiff) decided it would not only be a good idea to follow the group along the highway, but it would also be a good idea to chase cars and play in the middle of the highway. As a scientist I am for natural selection, the group I was walking with was not. So after two or three close misses it is determined that I will pick up the dog and place him in my backpack Paris Hilton style. We walked to town, all around town, and back, with the dog in my backpack. Yes it was very adorable and pictures will be posted at some point. The best part of the entire journey was the reaction of the Namibians to this random white person carrying a dog in his backpack. The reactions ranged from talking about it in their mother tongue to opening pointing and laughing at me. It was a good time overall.

The human body never ceases to amaze me in its ability to adapt to a change in environment. When I first arrived in Africa, the dryness of the desert caused many problems from skin irritation to nose bleeds. Now after 6 weeks here I no longer have any of those problems that I initially had. My hands are more calloused and I walk barefoot over rocks without any real problems.

Thursday Sept 23rd I leave Okahandja with my Head of Department Harry. We first travel to Windhoek to pick up his mother in law and then drive on to Rehoboth. Once in Rehoboth a Braai (BBQ) is waiting for me (complete with beer) thrown by some of my colleagues. I practice the little Afrikaans I can speak only to find out that the school I will be teaching at (Vooruitsig junior secondary school) mostly speaks Khoekhoegowab (KKG) better known as the African click language. I am suppose to stay with a fellow teacher near the school but it is determined that there is not sufficient bedding for me and I am taken back to Harry’s house. There is now debate over where I will live, more to come on that later.

Friday I leave for school with Harry and his wife. Upon arrival we go to the staff meeting where I am introduced to the people I didn’t meet the previous night. My surname is changed to “Nieberger” because Neiberger literally translates to “Fuck Mountain(eer)” in Afrikaans. I attend the Friday morning assembly where I am introduced to the students. They stare at me. I am taken to every class to personally speak to each teacher. It becomes apparent that five teachers are absent and another three (and the principal) left early for the day. A fight breaks out among the unruly children with no supervision. It is broken up by one of the teachers. School closes early due to the lack of teachers. I go back to Harry’s house and nothing of an excitement happens there.

Saturday I meet with the two other PCVs in Rehoboth, Ricky and Maureen, who are really nice and show me around town. I buy a few things for the family and head back. I meet the rest of the immediate family, Janice (15), Jaime (19) and Harry (who goes by Jodie 22). There is a Braai waiting for Jaime and Jodie because they are home from Windhoek where they both attend the University of Namibia. I meet an exceptionally drunk white Angolan who attempts to speak Portuguese to me, it fails. He speaks Afrikaans, it too fails. Finally English, it fails as well. I gave up trying to speak with him. I then shoot pool with Harry, Ricky, and some of the other people whom I hardly know. I go to bed around 10pm; I’m exhausted because I get up around 4am.

Sunday everyone sleeps late and relaxes. I talk a little with the family but mostly read and watch rugby and cricket. Coincidentally cricket is the most ungodly boring creation I have ever watched. Jodie and Jaime go back to Windhoek.

Monday I wake and go to school with Harry. At the morning staff meeting I see several new faces that I have never seen before. The staff sings a few hymns in KKG. I never knew clicks could be sung. I observe mathematics and physical science classes on my first day. The learners stare at me. They are noticeably distracted. I speak with my vice principal about the states and the difference in culture between the States and Namibia. I also tell him I’m from Miami because no one knows where Gainesville or Jacksonville is, but everyone knows Miami. I have a meeting with my Inspector over my permanent housing, a two bedroom flat. She argues that I am only one person and only need a one bedroom flat. Harry and I argue that I need two bedrooms for the other volunteers who do their shopping in Rehoboth and need a place to stay. It is later discovered she lives in the two bedroom flat and doesn’t want to leave. She is not supposed to be living there. I show my Peace Corps papers saying I get the two bedroom flat and potentially make my first enemy in Rehoboth.

Tuesday repeats similarly to Monday. I observed some classes and this time I talked to the principal. The main exception was Caitlin (PCV) and her principal Ivan came so we could hike out to Okahandja. Hike out is Namblish for getting a ride in a taxi, combi (van), or someone’s private car. Caitlin and I tried stories about our experiences and what we think of our bosses.

Wednesday we hike out and I write this blog.

This has been, by far, the best week in Africa. On Wednesday several of us played softball with a group of local kids. It was so much fun seeing the faces of the children, happy just to be playing against another team. It reminded so much of when I was young and played baseball for the pure fun of the game. Later that was ruined and I only played because of the friends I had playing, not for love of the game anymore. We received our results from our language evaluation and I passed. I didn’t do as well as I had hoped but I’m going to start working on language and actually studying instead of mostly goofing off and playing guitar. On Friday (Sept 17th) we found out our sites and I will be heading to Rehoboth. It’s roughly the same size as Okahandja and only about an hour away from Windhoek. The only problem with this site is I can’t wear my Indiana Jones hat for several months. Because Rehoboth is in the south there is a larger problem with racism and the apartheid mindset. Being of German descent, and wearing that style of hat, I look too much like a Boer. A Boer is a white farmer, typically, but it has a very negative connotation in the southern regions of Namibia. It would be very counterproductive of me to look like a Boer in the first few months because people would go out of their way to avoid me. After 6 months or so of integrating into my community I will once again be able to wear my awesome hat. Integration shouldn’t be too difficult because there is a health volunteer already in Rehoboth. His name is Ricky. Only one member from my group (group 32) is within 80km of me and that is Caitlin. Most of my group is located in the north, near Etosha and in the Caprivi region. I will spend a fair amount of time going to planning in the north with my other science and math teachers.

Yesterday was an amazing day. We went to a hot springs, and by hot springs I mean algae covered urine colored pool. It was actually a lot of fun and everyone was able to kick back and relax. It’s good seeing all of the trainees without the thought of language and education sessions in their minds.

I had my host father shave my head this past Sunday. With the goatee I grew, I’m vaguely reminiscent of Edward Norton in American History X, where he plays a Neo-Nazi. I decided to shave my goatee. I cooked for my family today, spaghetti, and served them. It was a little strange when I went to hand my sister some food and she tried to get up so I could sit down. She’s not use to being served especially by a male. I asked her to sit and eat while I ate my food and cleaned up after everyone. They all seemed pleased with the meal but I’m never entirely sure. I fed some of my sister’s leftovers to Lion. I’m working on my relationship with the dog so I don’t get barked at in the morning. It seems to be working. I have my language proficiency test coming up, the midterm one is not very important, only the ending evaluation. I’m not worried about it though. Afrikaans is pretty easy to understand and speak.

Rob

Today, a bird crapped on me. I am told it is good luck but somehow I do not feel very lucky. My host mom prepared spaghetti for dinner and kool-aid to drink. I was excited! I haven’t had kool-aid in at least 10 years. Also for the first time since coming to Africa we got to see clouds. I know it may seem like a little thing but the sun is killer on my pasty whiteness. I enjoy my host family with one minor exception. They’re very conservative and seem to believe highly in gender roles. This is not really a problem because I’m a man and get out of doing housework, but I feel I cannot connect as well with my sister and mother because they don’t eat in the same room as I do. I have been trying to make a special effort to talk to my sister, though she doesn’t speak English and I don’t speak Afrikaans, and it seems to be paying off. She now greets me in the morning and I try to help her with chores, though I’m often not allowed to. Anyhow, all is well today.

I wake to the sound of Lion, the meanest dong I have ever met, at 5:30 in the morning. At 6 my host father knocks on my door signaling my start to the day. My host family, who five days ago were complete strangers, has opened their home to me, fed me, tutored my Afrikaans, and taught me basic skills such as cooking and doing laundry. I dress and prepare my backpack for language and cross cultural training sessions. I exit and lock my room (a Peace Corps requirement) to enter the family room where my host mom has prepared a meal of wheat bricks. Not the best food in the world but I will gladly eat it. I leave the house at 6:50am to meet Barbara, Caitlin, Quinn, and Julie so we can walk to the cambie (van) together. The morning is chilly but the sun rises over the mountains in the distance. We walk and talk and meet up with the 15 PCT’s (Peace Corps Trainees) who will squish into the cambie and head to NIED (National Institute for Education Development) for language training. Upon arrival we share all of our stories from the previous night with the other trainees.

Morning session starts with singing Peace Corps songs, followed by the Namibian National Anthem and the Star Spangled Banner. I’m not much of a singer but most of us aren’t. We then have announcements and culture or language training. At 10am we break for tea time, my new passion in life. We return to training at 10:30am, usually the opposite of whatever we did earlier in the day. I usually stop paying attention and lose track of time for a while. Professors Lufaso and Chalk can attest to my general inattentiveness during lectured instruction. At 1pm we break for lunch, packed by our host moms. I have sandwiches with butter, lots of butter, and some type of fruit. We all trade for whatever we want to eat that day. At 2:30pm we reconvene for more training in language, culture, or general I Peace Corps information. The day ends at 5pm and my head swims with new vocabulary to try on my host family. The cambie picks us all up at NIED and drops us back in our neighborhoods. I hurry home with the same group. I greet the family and ask if they need help with the food, they say no. I sit with my host dad and watch “The Soapies.” The soapies are soap operas from around the world. We watch one from South Africa in Afrikaans so I can try and pick up some of the language. When it is over I do my homework with my host father’s help. I’m then served a delicious meal (though not as good as my mom’s cooking) and watch some more TV. By 8pm I head to my all pink, private, bathroom to take a warm bath and relax. After washing I journal and read. I go to sleep around 10pm to wake the next day and repeat.

Here I am, sitting at the cusp of my destiny, in a hotel room, with someone who is barely more than a stranger. I have spent, at best, 24 hours, getting to know the 45 who are leaving in my same group. And yet, these are people who have the same mindset, the same ideals, nearly the same beliefs as I do. When the British surrendered at Charlestown they played “The world is Upside down,” but I am almost certain, that the world has never seemed more, “right side up” than it does now. Here, I know great people, who will do great things. I will never forget the great people who helped me along. But I feel now, now is the time that I live to my full potential, and do not only the things I’ve dreamed of, but do the things that all of my friends believe I am capable of. Robert Neiberger

I have had nearly two months to think and reflect on the adventure I will soon be embarking on. For the most part I have been excited. However sometimes when I lay down trying to sleep, my excitement is punctuated by a moment of extreme panic. What am I doing? Why am I leaving everyone in the states? This moment passes quickly and calm washes over me. The calm is the realization that everything I have done in my life has led me to this moment. The mission trips, volunteer work, education, hiking, and camping have all been in preparation for this new adventure. All I can do is thank everyone for the support and love you have shown me. I would never be able to undertake such as journey without the people who have helped me along the way.

I'm going to check to see if this goes to peacecorpsjournals.com.

Rob

I'm writing to find out if this will be posted. I'm going to connect it to PeaceCorpsjournals.com and find out if that worked.